Full text of "Fiji"
in
05=
in
O
Copyrighted material
MOON HANDBOOKS
2 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
Rotuma
To V.t. Levu v
(Approx. 120mi) \
P A
o
Kia,
Macuata-i-Wai o
Yasawa
Group Yasawa^
Tavewa_.^ Nacula
Yaueia /? Matacawa Lcvu
4 ^ . i vn NabouwaluV^ Sonisoni
/O? ftlif* W *te r P I
^Viwa //Naviti :
<■ Ni
Nananu-i-Ra /
MaUke3^Kj ananu .j. Va ; tu-.-Cake
Cake
0
O Way a
Mamanuca ?Wayasewa
Group f
Yanuya «
* o Tavua
Mana o
Malolo"O a
MalololailaT ^ "
Makodroga
:' v . Makogai
/ o Naigani
^\JOvalau/
0
Moturiki / Batik .
/
Yanuca o
Beqa
<^Vatulele
s I
aft
Solo
50 mi
50 km
"< Dravuni
. • Bulia
0Ono
Kadavu
Matanuku
Copyrighted material
MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI 3
Cikobia
THE FIJI ISLANDS
o Vetauua
■o Qele Levu
Nukubasaga
Ri »^> o Cobia
(j Yavu Yanuca
Qamea
Laucala
Taveuni
Nanuku
" Levu
0 Wailagi Lala
Northern Lau Group
^ Naitauba
Malima -«
Koro
jvianma^ Avea
Yacata 0 .Kaimbu
^ Ka
Vatu Vara °
Lomaiviti
Group
Q Nairai
^ Vanua Balavu
Kanacea <f **■ Cikobia-i-Lau
Susui 1 Munia
MagoO
* Katafaga
^ Tuvuca
U^Gau
Koro
Sea
OCicia
Nayau v
b*
Late-i-Viti
Late -i -Toga
Vanua Masi
Q Lakeba
- Aiwa
Vanua Vatu °
Southern Lau Group
<T<?Moala Olorua ■
Komo - °
Tavu-Na-Sici . M , ' Karoni
Moala Namuka-.-Lau
Group Vuaqava<? Navutu-i-Ra
Totoya ^
* Oneata
Moce
Q Matuku
Kahara Q Navutu-i- . • Yagasa Cluster
I* Loma ^
Marabo 0 „ ,
(Jgea Levu
Fulagag, £
Ogea Dnki
0 DAVID STANLEY
Copyrighted material
4 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
Yasawa
Group
Blizh Water
VITILEVU
Vasam
NaudoU
WAIDROKA
BAY
RESORT
Copyrighted material
MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI 5
t DAVID STAMEY
SIXTH EDITION
DAVID STANLEY
AV ALON
TRAVEL
naterial
MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
SIXTH EDITION
David Stanley
Please send all comments, cor-
rections, additions, amendments,
and critiques to:
Published by
Avalon Travel Publishing
5855 Beaudry St.
Emeryville, CA 94608. USA
MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
AVALON TRAVEL PUBLISHING
5855 BEAUDRY ST.
EMERYVILLE, CA 94608, USA
Text, photographs, illustrations, and maps
© David Stanley. 2001 . All nghts reserved.
www.moon.com
Some photos and illustrations are used by permission
and are the property of the original copyright owners.
n.,„i.„. i_i,
rTinung nisiory
1st edition— 1985
6th edition— August 2001
5 4 3 2 1
ISBN: 1-56691-336-5
ISSN: 1534-049X
Editor: Grace Fujimoto
Series Manager: Erin Van Rheenen
Codv Editor Emilv Fancher
Map Editor: Naomi Dancis
Graphics Coordinator: Melissa Sherowski
Production: Alvaro Villanueva, Carey Wilson
Cartography: Kat Kalamaras, Mike Morgenfeld
Proofreader: Emily Lunceford
Index: Vera Gross
Front cover photo: © Norbert Wu
Distributed in the United States and Canada by Publishers Group West
Printed in China through Colorcraft Ltd., Hong Kong
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be translated or reproduced in any form, except brief extracts by
reviewer ior me purpose 01 a review, wnnoui wrinen permission or me copyngnt owner, in me case or
photocopying or other reprographic copying, a license can be obtained from CANCOPY (Canadian Copyright
Licensing Agency), One Yonge Street, Suite 1 900,Toronto. Ontario M5C 1E5. Canada (tel. 800/893-5777,
fax 416/868-1621 , www.cancopy.com).
Although every effort was made to ensure that the information was correct at the time of going to press, the
author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss or damage
caused by errors, omissions, or any potential travel disruption due to labor or financial difficulty, whether such
errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.
No subscription fees or payments in services have been received from any of the tourism operators included
in this book.
Copyrighted material
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
91
-70
The Land
. 22
Coral Rppte - Climatp
VVlBI 1 Ivvlvi Villi ImIU
Flora and Fauna
. 31
Flora - Fauna
i i w i a. i aui ia
Histon/ and finvprnmpnt
36
History; Since Independence; Government
The People
60
Ethnic Groups: Land Rights; Gender Issues; Religion; Language
Customs
, 65
Conduct
SPECIAL TOPICS
C?ati Island Orn<%s Section 24 A Skeleton in
Climate* Channe 27 Britain's Nuclear Closet .
41
Pin C^limitn C^hnri JQ Fill IH Pi COCODllt Shpll
53
Tropical Hurricanes 30 How a Sugar Mill Works. . .
. 54
Fiji Islands Chronology 37 Ecotounsm or Ecoterronsm
5ft
Cannibalism 38 Tabua
. 67
ON THE ROAD
71-
135
Highlights
71
Sports and Recreation
73
Entertainment
77
Public Holidays and Festivals
7R
Arts and Crafts
78
Shopping
. 80
. 81
Food and Drink
. 86
. &9
Vi^a^ and Officialdom
90
Money
. 91
Communications
9?
Media
95
Health
96
What to Take
101
Film and Photography
Time and Measurements
104
Getting There 106
Air Services; Regional Airlines; Problems; By Boat; Organized Tours; By
Sailing Yacht
Getting Around 129
By Air; By Boat; By Bus; Taxis; Car Rentals
Airports 134
SPECIAL TOPICS _
10 Top Sites of Fiji 72
1 0 Safety Rules of Diving 74
Accommodation Price Ranges . ... 81
Village Etiquette in Fiji 85
Fijian and Indian Specialties 87
The Coconut Palm 88
Tourist Offices 89
Diplomatic Offices . .
A Traveler's Notes
on AIDS and HIV . .
Airport Codes
Coral Reef Adventure
Maritime Coordinates
90
. 98-99
. . . 112
. . . 118
124-125
NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
136
163
Nadi
136
Accommodations; Food; Entertainment; Information; Services; Health;
Transportation; South of Nadi
155
Malololailai Island. Malolo Island; The Surfing Camps;
The Tiny Islands;
Mana Island; The Outer Islands
SPECIAL TOPIC
163
SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
164-
186
Natadola and The Fijian; Kulukulu; Sigatoka; Korotogo; Vatukarasa;
Korolevu
178
Pacific Harbor: Navua
Islands off Southern Viti Levu
184
Vatulele Island; Yanuca Island; Bega Island
SPECIAL TOPIC
The Leaend of Mau
. 183
SUVA AND VICINITY
187
216
Sights; Accommodations; Food; Entertainment and Events; Shopping;
Information; Services; Health; Transportation
Nausori and Vicinity 214
Nausori; Around Nausori
SPECIAL TOPICS
Hannah Dudley's Legacy 189 Tanoa— Cannibal King of Bau .... 215
Isa Lei (The Fijian
Song of Farewell) 210
NORTHERN VITI LEVU 217-
071
Northwest of Nausori
217
^TnA Ti'inf 1 Y/iti 1 aim i Tj'aL/
01Q
MjfcJM m •» r~i \ / it i 1 » » r i i
. 219
Rakiraki
. 222
Northwestern Viti Levu
??6
Tavua: Vatukoula: Ba
Into the Interior
229
The Siqatoka River Trek
LAUTOKA AND VICINITY 939-
941
Lautoka
Sights; Accommodations; Food; Entertainment; Information and
Services: Transportation; South of Lautoka; Koroyanitu National Heritage
Park
THE YASAWA ISLANDS 949-
954
Wayasewa Island; Waya Island; Naviti Island; Tavewa Island; Islands
Around Tavewa; Nanuya Levu Island; Sawa-i-Lau Island; Yasawa Island
SPECIAL TOPIC
Captain William Bhqh
P4fi
KADAVtl 955-
960
Sights; Accommodations; Other Practicalities; Getting There
THE LOMAIVITI GROUP 961-
975
Ovalau Island
. 262
Levuka; Sights; Accommodations; Food; Entertainment; Information and
Services; Transportation; Islands off Ovalau
Other Islands of the Lomaiviti Group
273
SPECIAL TOPICS
The Riddle of the Joyita 262 The Tunnels of Levuka
P67
VANtIA LEVU 976-
995
Labasa
Sights; Accommodations; Food and Entertainment; Other Practicalities;
Transportation
Savusavu
285
Accommodations; Food and Entertainment; Other Practicalities;
Transportation
Buca Bay and Rabi
?9?
Along the Hibiscus Highway; Kioa; Rabi
SPECIAL TOPICS
The Crested Iguana 2I& Th e Ba na bans 2 94- 295
Vidi Vidi 283.
T AVE UNI
296
-310
Sights: Sports and Recreation; Accommodations; Other Practicalities:
Transportation; Offshore Islands
THE LAU GROUP
311
-318
Northern Lau
312
VdMUd DdldVU, UHHI IbldilUb Ul INUnilclll LdU
Southern Lau
. 315
Lakeba; Other Islands of Southern Lau
ROTUMA
319
-321
Sights; Practicalities
RESOURCES
-340
Description and Travel; Geography; Natural Science; History; Pacific
Issues; Social Science; Language and Literature; Reference Books;
Booksellers and Publishers: Map Publishers: Periodicals
Other Resources
. 329
Discography; Top 20 Fiji Websites; Website Directory; Email Directory
GLOSSARY
. . 341
-345
Capsule Fijian Vocabulary
344
Capsule Hindi Vocabulary
. 345
ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX
346
-348
RESTAURANT INDEX
348
-349
INDEX
...35H
-359
ABBREVIATIONS
AS — Australian dollars
4WD — four-wheel drive
N.Z. — New Zealand
a/c — air-conoiiioneo
GPO — General Post Office
pp — per person
ATM — automated teller machine
HI — Hosteling International
SDA— Seventh-Day Adventist
C— Centigrade
km — kilometer
STD— sexually transmitted
CS — Canadian dollars
kph — kilometers per hour
disease
CDW— collision damage waiver
mm— millimeters
tel.— telephone
EEZ — Exclusive Economic Zone
MV— motor vessel
F$ — Fiji dollars
no. — number
US$-U.S. dollars
SPELLING AND
PRONUNCIATION
When early Bntish missionaries created a system
of written Fijian they established a unique set of
orthographic rules followed to this day. In an at-
tempt to represent the sounds of spoken Fijian
more precisely, they rendered "mb" as b, "nd"
as d, "ng" as g, "ngg" as q, and 1h" as c. Thus
Beqa is pronounced Mbengga, Nadi is Nandi,
Sigatoka is Singatoka, Cicia is Thithia, etc. In
order to be able pronounce Fijian names and
words correctly, visitors must take a few minutes
to learn these pronunciation rules. Turn to the
Caosule Fijian Vocabulary in the back of the book
tor more information.
ACCOMMODATION PRICE
RANGES
Throughout this handbook, accommodations are
grouped in the price categones that follow based
on the price of a double room. The conversion
rate used is indicated below, and of course, cur-
rency fluctuations and inflation can lead to slight
variations.
Under US$25 (Under FS56.25)
USS25-50 (F$56.25-1 12.50)
US$50-100 (F$1 12.50-225.00)
US$1 00-1 50 (F$225.00-337.50)
USS150 and up (F$337.50 and up)
Copyrighted material
MAPS
The Fjjj Islands - 2-3
Viti Levu 4-5
INTRODUCTION
Western Polynesia . 23_
Fiji: Political Divisions. 52
ON THE ROAD
Sout h P a cific A i r Ro utes 1G6
Air Pacific Flight Routes LL1
Air Routes in Fiji 129
NAD I AND THE MAMANUCAS
A ro u nd N ad i .
13a_
Cpntrnl Nadi 14fi_
The Mamanuca Group 155
SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
Around Sigatokn , . . .
Sigatoka
JL£9_
Around Korolevu 174-175
Pacific Harbor . . 178
Beqa _
SUVA AND VICINITY
Around Suva
Col o-i-S uva Fo re st Pa rk
Suva
194_
136
Suva Restaurants and Bars 202
Around Nausori 214
NORTHERN VITI LEVU
Around Rakiraki 221
Tavua 226
Ba 228
The Sigatoka River Trok - 231
LAUTOKA AND VICINITY
I antnka _233
THE YASAWA ISLANDS
T he Ya sawa Island s 2 43
Waya and Wayasewa 245
Around Tavawa ?4Q
KADAVU
Kadavu 256
THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
Ovalau 263
Iflvnka 264
Kom 2 74
VANUA LEVU
Vanua Levu 27 7
_Labasa 28Q
Around 1 aha&a 281
Around Savusavu 285
Savusavu 2B6
TAVEUNI
Tavftnni ?Q7
Matei Airport Area 303
THE LAU GROUP
Vanua Balavu 312
Cicia 314
I akeha 31fi
Moala 318
ROTUMA
Rotuma 320
I * S ~ S M 3
Primary Road
Secondary Road
Unpaved Road
Railroad
Ferry
Trail/Footpath
Airfield/Airstrip
MAP SYMBOLS
ft Capital City
City
Town
♦ Point of Interest
• Accommodation
* Restaurant Bar
■ Other Location
1 Golf Course
i Mountain
^ Waterfall
a Campground
Mangrove
y - Swamp
Reef
Water
YOU WILL HAVE THE LAST WORD
Travel writing is among the least passive forms of
journalism, and every time you use this book you
become a participant. I've done my best to provide
me type or iniormauon i minK win coninouie to max-
ing your trip a success, and now I'm asking for your
help. If I led you astray or inconvenienced you. I
want to know, and if you feel I've been unfair some-
where, don't hesitate to say. I can't predict the future
and some things are bound to have changed. If you
write and tell me. I'll be able to enter your corrections
in the next edition, which is probably already in
preparation even as you are reading this.
Unlike many travel writers, this author doesn't
accept nospitaiity irom tounsm uusmesses or od-
tain VIP treatment by announcing his arrival. At
times that makes it difficult to audit the expensive or
isolated resorts, thus I especially welcome com-
ments from readers who stayed at the upmarket
places, particularly when the facilities didn't match
the price If you feel you've been badly treated by a
hotel, restaurant, car rental agency, airline, tour
company, dive shop, or whomever, please let me
know, and if it concurs with other information on
hand, your complaint certainly will have an impact. Of
course, we also want to hear about the things you
thought were great.
When writing, please be as precise, accurate,
and fair as you can. Foreign travel is an individual ex-
perience, and one person's preferences and opinions
may vary from those of other visitors. What was
heaven for one can be hell for another. The more
feedback we receive from all of you out there, the
clearer the general patterns will become (and we
can tell when we receive a rush of very similar letters
orchestrated by a tourism operator). Reader's letters
are examined during the concluding stages of editing
the book, so you really will have the final say. If
Moon Handbooks: Fiji helped you. please help us
make it even better. Address your feedback to:
David Stanley
c/o Avaion I ravel ruoiisning
5855 Beaudry St.
Emeryville, CA 94608. U.S.A.
fax 510/595-4228
email: info@travelmatters.com
IS FIJI SAFE TO VISIT?
On May 19, 2000. gunmen took control of Fiji's par-
liament and the prime minister and other members
were held hostage for 56 days. At press time a mili-
tary-backed regime was still in power, yet the situa-
tion is calm and the country is as safe to visit as it has
ever been. Reports of an increase in crime have
been exaggerated, and the post-coup curfew has
been removed. For visitors, the biggest change from
1 999 is that it's no longer difficult book a hotel room
or an interisland flight. These days backpackers
often have a whole dormitory to themselves, and
many upscale accommodations are offering spe-
cials. So unless you like large crowds and high
prices, this is a good time to go to Fiji.
Of course, that doesn't mean that everything is
back to normal. The 1997 Constitution is still in doubt
ing to draw up a racially weighted replacement. But
while it's important that pressure for a return to
democracy be maintained from both inside and out-
side Fiji, tourism boycotts hurt the average Fijian a lot
more than those responsible tor hiji s cunent political
and economic demise. Thus I repeat, there's ab-
solutely no reason to defer your trip to Fiji. Even the
capital Suva— where the coup and a subsequent
military mutiny took place — is quite safe during the
day, and you always did need to take a taxi when re-
turning to your hotel late at night.
The book was researched and written well after
the coup attempt, and all changes up to mid-2001
have been noted Most resorts and dive centers
I IU W W W W W f ' • ■ W 4 WW • WW f WWl * WWW • »W • ' W W I V W WWII *W I W
around Fiji are operating normally, although far below
capacity. Virtually every business also catering to
the local population (including all bus, ferry, and air
services) is up and running. Turn to The Fiji Crisis in
History to read up on the coup attempt, and visit a
few of the websites in Resources for current infor-
■ W WW Wl *• IW WWWWHWv* III • 1 W WW W I WWW I W« WW! V W* I 4 ft II W»
mation. Then relax and enjoy your holiday. Though
Fiji is no longer The way the world should be," it's still
a wonderful place to visit.
Copyrighted material
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The country of residence of those listed below are identified by the following
signs which follow their names: au (Australia), ca (Canada), cy (Cyprus), de
(Germany), fj (Fiji), gb (Great Britain), nc (New Caledonia), nl (Netherlands),
no (Norway), nz (New Zealand), and us (United States).
The antique engravings by M.G.L Domeny de Rienzi are from the classic
three-volume work Oceanie ou Cinquibne Partie du Monde (Paris: Firmin
Didot Freres, 1836).
I'm most grateful to Michael Field (nz) of Agence France-Presse for
supplying me with an archive of his extensive coverage of the Fiji Crisis.
Thanks too to all of the following readers who took the trouble to write us
letters about their trips:
J.D. Anderson (us), Paul Arnold (us), Larry Berkowitz (us), Lisa Carangelo
(us), Lee Carsley (us), Vijendra Chaudhary (fi), Rob and Susan Clemens
(us), BuJordA. Crites (us), John E. Da vies (ca), Nick Dealtl (gb), Martine
and Hay den Falloon (cy), Mark Frederick (us), Michael Gildersleeve (us),
Jean-Francois Giroux (ca), Sylvia Gaudet (ca), Chuck Grobe (us), Philip
Hand (us), Garry Hawkins (gb), Anreas Hob (no), Jorgen Langballe
(no), Edwin R Koeppen (au), Natalie Minnis (gb), Joint Penisten (us), Jon
Peverley (gb), Annie-Claude Petitjean (gb), Steven A. Rasmussen (us),
Harold Schierer (us), Bill Schroder (us), Mike Shalkross (gb), Mikey
Sheahan (us), Beth Sigren (us), Jeri Solomon (us), Bill Southworth (nz),
Louise Spergel (us), E.J.D. Swabey (gb), Peter van der Vlies (nl), Brian
Whitcombe (au), Rikke Willums (no), and Thomas Woltmann (au).
All their comments have been incorporated into the volume you're now
holding. To have your own name included here next edition, write: David
Stanley, c/o Avalon Travel Publishing, 5855 Beaudry St., Emeryville, CA
94608, U.S.A. (email: info@travelmatters.com).
Attention Hotel Keepers, Tour Operators, and Divemasters
The best way to keep your listing in Moon Handbooks: Fiji up to date is to
send us current information about vour business. If vou don't agree with what
we've written, please tell us why — there's never any charge or obligation
for a listing. Thanks to the following island tourism workers and government
officials who did write in:
Ross Allen (jj), John Artack (fj), Ray Aucott (nz), Bob Barrel (ff), Elain
Barrett-Power (fj), Bob Besjbrd (us), John Birch (fi), Hugh Breckenridge
(us), Nate Bricker (ff), Mike Brook (fj), Andrew Brown (ff), Mere Brown
(jj), Mary Burgess (gb), Elizabeth Burnett (jj), Curly CarsweU (fj), Ramesh
Copyrighted material
Chand (ff), DA. Christopher (ff), Jeannie Clark (us) John Climo (au),
Ian Collingwood (ff), Henry Crawford (au), Mary T. Crowley ( us), Lionel
Danford (ff), Tom Davis (ff), Margaret Davon (ff), Tania de Hoon (ff),
Michael & Caz Dennis (ff), Sue Dorrington (nz), Carol Douglas (us),
Garth Downey (ff), Graeme Duncan (ff), Glenn Dziwulski (ff), Noreen
Dziundski (ff), Joan Eden (ff), Tim Eden (ff), Elsie Ellis (us), Michelle Evans
(au), Mike Everton-Jones (gb), Mike Farn worth (us), Philip Felstead (us),
Karen F La finery (ff), Jonathan Ford (ff), Carolyn Fotofili (ff), Mikaele
Futtaki (ff), Phylis Gandy Jaureguy (ff), Randy Gardner (us), Barbara
Gaston (us), Heidi Gavrilojf (au), Andrea Goerger-Dehm (ff), Terri
Gortan (ff), David Grant (au),John Gray (ff),John "Caveman" Gray (us),
Dan Grenier (ff), Nancy Guin (ff), Abdul Hafiz (ff), Kevin Harris (gb),
Wendy Headlee (us), Penny Henderson (nz), Mike Holme (us), Michael
Holscher (de), Claudia Humphrey (us), Ian Jackson (ff), Corinne Janssen
(ff), Mike Jaureguy (ff), Rob J en neve (us), Yoko Jennings (ff), Harley
Jones (ff), Prakash C Kaba (ff), Abdul Kalaam (ff), Hans Kehrli (ff),
Erik Keilholtz (us), David Keeble (ff), Dennis Keenan (us), Marc Keller
(ff), Patty Kennett (us), Joe ben Kiess (ff), Ratu Kini Bokoniqiwa (ff),
David Kirton (ff), Rosareen Kitione (ff), Danielle Klap (nz), Viola Koch
(ff), Rob Kusters (nl), Linda Kwasny (ff), Andrea Lagomarsino (us), Greg
Lawlor (ff), Sheryl Lee (ff), Emma Lilo (ff), Ad Linkels (nl), Ian Lockwood
(au), Lorraine Mar (ff), Nemia Marama (ff),Jill Matousek Turner (us),
Melissa McCoy (us), Brenda McCroskey (us), Brian McDonald (ff), Collin
McKenny (us), Denis Meek (ff), Joan Moody (ff), Francis Mortimer (nz),
Delwyn Namulo (ff), Shashita Nand (ff), Vineeta Nand (ff), Arvind
Narayan (ff), Mark O'Brien (ff), Albert G. O'Connor (ff), Amanda
O Connor (ff), Lorraine Paepcke (ca), Brandon Paige (ff), JUl Palise (ff),
Bob Pitts (ff), Marge Post (ff), Manish Prasad (us), Shelendra Prasad
(ff), Vijen Prasad (us), Us Probert (nz), Luke Ragg (ff)Josaia Rakoroi
(ff), Josephine Ravatudei (ff), Arthur Reed (ff), Philip Richards (ff), Kim
Robertson (nc), Adi Kelera Sayaba (ff), Ben Seduadua (ff), Koroi Seniloli
(ff), Peter Seymour (gb), Dusty Larry Simon (ca), Joel Simon (us), Kamal
Singh (us), Rodney T. Smith (us), Virginia Smith (ff), Garry Snodgrass
(ff), Gerry Sont (ff), Joan Spring ( us), Joyce Stanley ( us), Richard and Kari
Stiers (ff), Karen Stock (ff), Unaisi Tawake (ff), Geoff Taylor (ff), Josephine
Wong Terry (ff), Douglas J. Tlwmpson (ff), Mark Thomson (nz), Margaret
and Tom Tinitali (ff), Sharen Todd (ff), Jtdie Trussell (ff), Eroni Tuinuku
(ff), Helene Tuwai (ff), Dr. Lili Tuwai (ff), Vive Vuruya (ff), Mrs. Tarisi
Vunidilo (ff), Jerry Warren (ff), Tony Whitton (ff), Shelley Williams (ff),
Belinda Wilson (au), Dulcie Wong (ca), Len Wong (us), Claire Wood (gb),
Kevin Wunrow (ff), Marie Yalenkatian (us), Sandi Yara (us), and
Nicolette Yoshida (ff).
Copyrighted material
From the Author
While out researching my books I find it cheaper to pay my own way, and
you can rest assured that nothing in this book is designed to repay freebies
from hotels, restaurants, tour operators, or airlines. I prefer to arrive
unexpected and uninvited, and to experience things as they really are. On
the road I seldom identify myself to anyone. The essential difference between
this book and the myriad travel brochures free for the taking at tourist
offices and travel agencies throughout Fiji is that this book represents you,
the traveler, while the brochures represent the travel industry. The companies
and organizations included herein are there for information purposes only,
and a mention in no way implies an endorsement.
Copyrighted material
INTRODUCTION 21
INTRODUCTION
Once notorious as the "Cannibal Isles," Fiji is
now the colorful crossroads of the South Pacif-
ic. Of the 322 islands that make up the Fiji
Group, over 100 are inhabited by a rich mix-
ture of exuberant Melanesians, Indo-Fijians,
Polynesians, Micronesians, Chinese, and Eu-
ropeans, each with a cuisine and culture of their
own. Here Melanesia mixes with Polynesia,
ancient India with the Pacific, and tradition with
the modern world in a unique blend.
Fiji preserves an amazing variety of tradi-
tional customs and crafts such as kava or
yaqona drinking, the presentation of the whale's
tooth, firewalking, fish driving, turtle calling, tapa
beating, and pottery making. Alongside this fas-
cinating human history is a dramatic diversity of
landforms and seascapes, all concentrated in a
relatively small area. Fiji's sun-drenched beach-
es, blue lagoons, panoramic open hillsides,
lush rainforests, and dazzling reefs are truly
magnificent.
Fiji offers posh resorts, good food and accom-
modations, nightlife, historic sites, outer-island liv-
ing, hiking, kayaking, camping, surfing, snorkeling,
and scuba diving. Traveling is easy by small plane,
interisland catamaran, copra boat, outboard canoe,
open-sided bus, and air-conditioned coach. With
even a month at your disposal you'll barely scratch
the surface of all there is to see and do.
Best of all, Fiji is a visitor-friendly country with
uncrowded, inexpensive facilities available al-
most everywhere. You'll love the vibrant, outgo-
ing people whose knowledge of English makes
communicating a breeze. In a word, Fiji is a trav-
eler's country par excellence, and whatever your
budget, Fiji gives you good value for your money
and plenty of ways to spend it. Bula, welcome to
Fiji, everyone's favorite South Pacific country.
riaterial
22 INTRODUCTION
THE LAND
Fiji lies 5,100 km southwest of Hawaii and 3,150
km northeast of Sydney, astride the main air route
between North America and Australia. Nadi is
the hub of Pacific air routes, while Suva is a re-
gional shipping center. The 180th meridian cuts
through Fiji, but the international dateline swings
east so the entire group can share the same day.
The name Fiji is a Tongan corruption of the
indigenous name "Viti." The Fiji Islands are ar-
rayed in a horseshoe configuration with Viti Levu
(great Fiji) and adjacent islands on the west,
Vanua Levu (great land) and Taveuni to the north,
and the Lau Group on the east. This upside-
down-U-shaped archipelago encloses the Koro
Sea, which is relatively shallow and sprinkled
with the Lomaiviti, or central Fiji, group of islands.
Together the Fiji Islands are scattered over
1 ,290,000 square km of the South Pacific Ocean.
If every single island were counted, the isles of
the Fiji archipelago would number in the thou-
sands. However, a mere 322 are judged large
enough for human habitation, and of those only
106 are inhabited. That leaves 216 uninhabit-
ed islands, most of them prohibitively isolated
or lacking fresh water.
Most of the Fiji Islands are volcanic, remnants
of a sunken continent that once stretched through
Australia. This origin accounts for the mineral de-
posits on the main islands. None of Fiji's volca-
noes are presently active, though there are a few
small hot springs. The two largest islands, Viti
Levu and Vanua Levu, together account for 87
percent of Fiji's 18,272 square km of land. Viti
Levu has 57 percent of the land area and 75 per-
cent of the people, while Vanua Levu, with 30
percent of the land, has 18 percent of the popu-
lation. Viti Levu alone is bigger than all five arch-
ipelagos of Tahiti-Polynesia. In fact, Fiji has more
land and people than all of Polynesia combined.
Viti Levu
The 1 ,000-meter-high Nadrau Plateau in cen-
tral Viti Levu is cradled between Tomanivi (1,323
meters) on the north and Monavatu (1,131 me-
ters) on the south. On different sides of this ele-
vated divide are the Colo-East Plateau drained
by the Rewa River, the Navosa Plateau drained
by the Ba, the Colo-West Plateau drained by
the Sigatoka, and the Navua Plateau drained
by the Navua. Some 29 well-defined peaks rise
above Viti Levu's interior; most of the inhabi-
tants live in the river valleys or along the coast.
The Nadi River slices across the Nausori High-
lands, with the Mount Evans Range (1 ,195 me-
ters) towering above Lautoka. Other highland
areas of Viti Levu are cut by great rivers like the
Sigatoka, the Navua, the Rewa, and the Ba,
navigable far inland by outboard canoe or kayak.
Whitewater rafters shoot down the Navua and
occasionally the Ba, while the lower Sigatoka
flows gently through Fiji's market garden "salad
bowl." Fiji's largest river, the Rewa, pours into the
Pacific through a wide delta just below Nausori.
After a hurricane the Rewa becomes a dark tor-
rent worth a special visit to Nausori just to see.
Sharks have been known to enter both the Rewa
and the Sigatoka and swim far upstream.
Vanua Levu
Vanua Levu has a peculiar shape, with two long
peninsulas pointing northeastward. A mountain
range between Labasa and Savusavu reaches
1,032 meters at Nasorolevu. Navotuvotu (842
meters), east of Bua Bay, is Fiji's best example of
a broad shield volcano, with lava flows built up in
layers. The mountains are closer to the southeast
coast, and a broad lowland belt runs along the
northwest. Of the rivers only the Dreketi, flowing
west across northern Vanua Levu, is large; nav-
igation on the Labasa is restricted to small boats.
The interior of Vanua Levu is lower and drier
than Viti Levu, yet scenically superb: the road
from Labasa to Savusavu is a visual feast.
Other Islands
Vanua Levu's bullet-shaped neighbor Taveuni
soars to 1 ,241 meters, its rugged east coast bat-
tered by the southeast trades. Taveuni and Ka-
davu are known as the finest islands in Fiji for
their scenic beauty and agricultural potential.
Geologically, the uplifted limestone islands of
the Lau Group have more in common with Tonga
than with the rest of Fiji. Northwest of Viti Levu is
the rugged limestone Yasawa Group.
Copyrighted material
THE LAND 23
24 INTRODUCTION
Coasts and Reefs
Fringing reefs are common along most of the
coastlines, and Fiji is outstanding for its many
barrier reefs. The Great Sea Reef off the north
coast of Vanua Levu is the fourth-longest in the
world, and the Astrolabe Reef north of Kadavu is
one of the most colorful. Countless other unex-
plored barrier reefs are found off northern Viti
Levu and elsewhere. The many cracks, crevices,
walls, and caves along Fiji's reefs are guaranteed
to delight the scuba diver.
The configuration of the Astrolabe Reef off
Ono and Kadavu islands confirms Darwin's The-
ory of Atoll Formation. The famous formulator
of the theory of natural selection surmised that
atolls form as high volcanic islands subside into
lagoons. The original island's fringing reef grows
into a barrier reef as the volcanic portion sinks.
When the last volcanic material finally disap-
pears below sea level, the coral rim of the
reef/atoll remains as an indicator of how big the
island once was.
Of course, all this takes place over millions
of years, but deep below every atoll is the old vol-
canic core. Darwin's theory is well illustrated
here, where Ono and the small volcanic islands
to the north remain inside the Astrolabe Reef.
Return in 25 million years and all you'll find will be
the reef itself.
CORAL REEFS
Coral reefs cover some 200,000 square km
worldwide, between 35 degrees north and 32
degrees south latitude. A reef is created by the
accumulation of millions of calcareous skele-
tons left by myriad generations of tiny coral
polyps, some no bigger than a pinhead. A small
piece of coral is a colony composed of large
numbers of polyps. Though the reefs skeleton is
usually white, the living polyps are of many dif-
ferent colors. The individual polyps on the sur-
face often live a long time, continuously secret-
ing layers to the skeletal mass beneath the tiny
layer of flesh.
Coral polyps thrive in clear salty water where
the temperature never drops below 18° C. They
require a base less than 50 meters below the
water's surface on which to form. The coral
colony grows slowly upward on the consolidated
skeletons of its ancestors until it reaches the
low-tide mark, after which development extends
outward on the edges of the reef. Sunlight is
GAU ISLAND CROSS SECTION
The difference between barrier and fringing reefs is of Gau's southwestern shore is separated from the
illustrated in the southwest-northwest cross section main island's coast by a deep lagoon, while only a
of Gau Island (see the Gau Island map). The verti- tidal flat lies between Gau's northeastern coast and
cal scale has been exaggerated. The barrier reef the edge of the fringing reef.
THE LAND 25
26 INTRODUCTION
critical for coral growth. Colonies grow quickly on
the ocean side due to clearer water and a greater
abundance of food. A strong, healthy reef can
grow four to five centimeters a year. Fresh or
cloudy water inhibits coral growth, which is why
villages and ports all across the Pacific are lo-
cated at the reef-free mouths of rivers. Hurri-
canes can kill coral by covering the reef with
sand, preventing light and nutrients from get-
ting through. Erosion caused by logging or urban
development can have the same effect.
Polyps extract calcium carbonate from the
water and deposit it in their skeletons. All limy
reef-building corals also contain microscopic
algae within their cells. The algae, like all green
plants, obtain energy from the sun and con-
tribute this energy to the growth of the reef's
skeleton. As a result, corals behave (and look)
more like plants than animals, competing for
sunlight just as terrestrial plants do. Many polyps
are also carnivorous; they use their minute sting-
ing tentacles to capture tiny planktonic animals
and organic particles at night.
Coral Types
Corals belong to a broad group of stinging crea-
tures, which includes polyps, soft corals, stony
corals, sea anemones, sea fans, and jellyfish.
Only those types with hard skeletons and a single
hollow cavity within the body are considered true
corals. Stony corals such as brain, table, staghorn,
and mushroom corals have external skeletons
dnd circ importcint reef builders ^^oft cordis blcick
corals, and sea fans have internal skeletons. The
fire corals are recognized by their smooth, vel-
vety surface and yellowish brown color. The sting-
ing toxins of this last group can easily penetrate
human skin and cause swelling and painful burn-
ing that can last up to an hour. The many varieties
ot sort, coiortui anemones gently waving in tne
current might seem inviting to touch, but beware
because many are also poisonous.
The corals, like most other forms of life in the
Pacific, colonized the ocean from the fertile seas
of Southeast Asia. Therefore the number of
species declines as you move east. Over 600
species of coral make their home in the Pacific,
compared to only 48 in the Caribbean. The di-
versity of coral colors and forms is endlessly
amazing. This is our most unspoiled environ-
ment, a world of almost indescribable beauty.
Exploring a Reef
Until you've explored a good coral reef, you
haven't experienced one of the greatest joys of
nature. While one cannot walk through pristine
forests due to a lack of paths, it's quite possible to
swim over untouched reefs. Coral reefs are the
most densely populated living space on earth —
the rainforests of the sea! It's wise to bring along
a high quality mask you've tested thoroughly be-
forehand as there's nothing more disheartening
than a leaky, ill-fitting mask. Also, dive shops
throughout the region rent or sell snorkeling gear.
Conservation
Coral reefs are one of the most fragile and com-
plex ecosystems on earth, providing food and
shelter for countless species of fish, crustaceans
(shrimps, crabs, and lobsters), mollusks (shells),
and other animals. The coral reefs of the South
Pacific protect shorelines during storms, sup-
ply sand to maintain the islands, furnish food
for the local population, form a living laboratory
for science, and are major tourist attractions.
Without coral, the South Pacific would be im-
measurably poorer.
Hard corals grow only about 10-25 millimeters
a year and it can take 7,000-10,000 years for a
coral reef to form. Though corals look solid
they're easily broken. By standing on them,
breaking off pieces, or carelessly dropping an-
chor, you can destroy in a few minutes what
took millennia to form. Once a piece of coral
breaks off it dies, and it may be years before
the coral reestablishes itself and even longer
before the broken piece is replaced. The "wound"
may become infected by algae, which can mul-
tiply and kill the entire coral colony. When this
happens over a wide area, the diversity of
marinelife declines dramatically.
We recommend that you not remove
seashells, coral, plantlife, or marine animals from
the sea. Doing so upsets the delicate balance of
nature, and coral is much more beautiful under-
water anyway! This is a particular problem along
shorelines frequented by large numbers of
tourists, who can completely strip a reef in very
little time. If you'd like a souvenir, content yourself
with what you find on the beach (although even
a seemingly empty shell may be inhabited by a
hermit crab). Also think twice about purchasing
jewelry or souvenirs made from coral or
Copyrighted material
THE LAND 27
seashells. Genuine traditional handicrafts that
incorporate shells are one thing, but by pur-
chasing unmounted seashells or mass-produced
coral curios you are contributing to the destruc-
tion of the marine environment. The triton shell,
for example, helps keep in check the reef-de-
stroying crown-of-thorns starfish.
The anchors and anchor chains of private
yachts can do serious damage to coral reefs.
Pronged anchors are more environmentally
friendly than larger, heavier anchors, and plastic
tubing over the end of the anchor chain helps
minimize the damaoe If at all Dossible anchor in
sand. A longer anchor chain makes this easier,
and a good windlass is essential for larger boats.
A recording depth sounder will help locate sandy
areas when none are available in shallow water.
If you don't have a depth sounder and can't see
the bottom, lower the anchor until it just touches
the bottom and feel the anchor line as the boat
drifts. If it grumbles, lift it up, drift a little, and try
again. Later, if you notice your chain grumbling,
motor over the anchor, lift it out of the coral and
move. Not only do sand and mud hold better,
but your anchor will be less likely to become
fouled. Try to arrive before 1 500 to be able to see
clearly where you're anchoring— Polaroid sun-
qIc^ssgs msko it OdSior to ciistiocjuis^i cordis.
There's an urgent need for stricter government
regulation of the marine environment, and in some
CLIMATE CHANGE
The gravest clanger facing the atolls and reefs of
Oceania is the greenhouse effect, a gradual warm-
ing of Earth's environment due to fossil fuel com-
bustion and the widespread clearing of forests. By
the year 2030 the concentration of carbon dioxide in
the atmosphere will have doubled from preindustri-
al levels. As infrared radiation from the sun is ab-
sorbed by the gas, the trapped heat melts moun-
tain glaciers and the polar ice caps. In addition, sea-
water expands as it warms up, so water levels could
rise almost a meter by the year 2100, destroying
shorelines created 5,000 years ago
A 1 982 study demonstrated that sea levels had al-
ready risen 12 centimeters in the previous century; in
1995 2,500 scientists from 70 countries involved in
an Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change
two-year study with the warning that over the next
century air temperatures may rise as much as 5°
Celsius and sea levels could go up 95 centimeters.
Not only will this reduce the growing area for food
crops but risina sea levels will mean salt water in-
trusion into groundwater supplies— a horrifying
prospect if accompanied by the droughts that have
been predicted. Coastal erosion will force govern-
ments to spend vast sums on road repairs and coast-
Increasing temperatures may already be con-
tributing to the dramatic jump in the number of hur-
ricanes in the South Pacific. For example, Fiji ex-
perienced only 12 tropical hurricanes from 1941 to
1980 but 10 from 1981 to 1989. and in the face of
devastating hurricanes, insurance companies are
withdrawing coverage from some areas. In 1997
and 1998 the El Nifio phenomenon brought with it
another round of devastating hurricanes.
Coral bleaching occurs when the organism's sym-
biotic algae are expelled in response to environ-
mental stresses, such as changes in water temper-
ature, and widespread instances of bleaching and
reefs being killed by hsing sea temperatures have
been confirmed around Tahiti and Cook Islands. To
make matters worse, the coral-crunching crown-of-
thorns starfish is again on the rise throughout the
South Pacific (probably due to sewage and fertilizer
runoff that nurture the starfish larvae). Reef de-
struction will reduce coastal fish stocks and impact
tourism.
Unfortunately, those most responsible for the
problem, especially the United States, Canada,
Japan, and Australia, have strongly resisted taking
action to significantly cut greenhouse gas emissions,
and new industrial polluters like India and China are
sure to make matters much worse. And as if that
weren t bad enough, the nydroiiuorocarbons (MFCS)
presently being developed by corporate giants like
Du Pont to replace the ozone-destructive chloroflu-
orocarbons (CFCs) used in cooling systems are far
more potent greennouse gases tnan carbon dioxide.
This is onlv one of manv similar consumDtion-relat-
ed problems, and it seems as if one section of hu-
manity is hurtling down a suicidal slope, unable to re-
sist the momentum, as the rest of our race watches
the catastrophe approach in helpless horror. It will
cost a lot to rewrite our collective ticket but there
may not be any choice.
Copyrighted material
<
X
u
6
3
CM °l
CD
to 00
CM *~
cd r»
tri £2
CM
CM CO
iri ^
CM
5§
CVJ
CO CM
CO <°
CM
CO
CO
CM
Cm
00
O CD
in 05
CM
CM IT)
co cd
CM T_
r»- co
to
CM
CO
CD
'C\J
cd
CM
o
cm
i >
CD O)
ID
CM
CM
£8
CM *~
CD °°
CM
co
iri P
CM
iri *
CM
CO CO
CM
CO in
CM
CO CD
iri °
CM
O O
(O g
CM
CO
CD
CM
CD h»
CD
CM
CO
CM
O E
CO
CM *
■D
C
jo
to
-I
E
E
co
iri E
CM -
CM
00
i- CD
CD w
CM T_
LO »-
iri 05
CM
h~ CM
CM
CO CO
CD
CO
CM
CO CO
CO *
CM
CM
CO E
i5?
in co
S8
cd
CD X
CM <*>
r- cn
JM^
CM CM
&3
E
E
2 8
CM
CO o
CM
CM
CM
53
CM
O CD
OS ™
CO ID
00
CO CD
CD
CO
co
O c
O CM
CM ^
in cn
,_ CO
ID
CM
8
CD CD
_J CD
CM
E
O E
i >
1 5
cm
CM
& CM
CD O
CD J
CM
CD CO
iri 00
CM
—
lri ^
CM
CD CO
CM
CM
CM
38
CM
o> cm
00 CD
£3
CO CM
co r-
CD f»-
£8
E
O E
3
>
^ >
5
f CO
CO
CM CO f—
co
CM
in
CM
CM
CO
CM
00
CO
CD
CM
co
CO CO
CD
CM
tT 00
CM
r- cm
co r;
CM W
! 8
CM
T- CO
CM
f- CO
8 3
I 8
CO
cn cd
cn
CD
CM
CM
co
CD
CM
a
>
co
>
3
CO
E
E
CO CM
CD L_
CM
N. y-
sE £
CM
cn co
5^
CM
CD V
CM £
CM ^
"3- CM
CM
CM
CM
rr CO
CO £
CM W
¥- CO
CO
-J
CO
co m
CD
CM
CO
CNJ
CM
CM
cn
co
CM
E
E
3
_- >
2" ™
CO -o
£ CO
>
co r>-
co
CD
in
CM
CM
CO o>
CM"
•<s- CO
m S
CM 0X1
CM t
lri £
CM
"J- cn
CM
O rr
CM
CD CO
CO *
CM
5?
CM
in oo
iri 2?
CM
co m
CD 1
CM
CM
r» cm
CD
CM
in
co
CM
CD
CM
cn
CO
CM
CO
E
r 55
03
3
c
co
>
CD
LO
CM
m
CM*
CD
cO
r J
CD O
m
CM
CM
^ CO
iri *
CM
CM
CM Q
CM
CO CO
CO »
CM
CM
co
cn
CM CD
CD £>
CM ^
co in
CD £
CM '
co
CD %
CM *
co cn
E
O E
□
3
c
CO fo
n >
co
CO CD
iri P>
CM
CM
CO o
CD
iri
CM
3
CM
in «
CM
O T
iri ZZ
CM
CM
a.
CO CM
CM
CO e
iri $2
CM
O CO
co ^
CM
co in
CD
CM
CM
CM
CO CD
CD O
CM '
CD CM
c^^
E
O E
3
>
I
\s£ CO
^ cB
5>
>
o r-
CO
CM "-
o
*- %
CM
CO
3-
IN. h-
CD ^
CM W
m
CO
CM
1 8
CM
CD
CM
CM
CO
CM
CM
CO T
CM CM
co
CO
CM
CM O
CM *
o
CT;
T CO
- in
o
TO
c
0)
CO
E
3
o
cr
E
E
co in
cri
CM °°-
CM
CO
CM "~
cn
iri $2
CM
O 1^
cn
CM
CD
CM O
XT Z
CM
CO CO
co
CM
1- Tj-
CO 2
CM
»- co
CM -
iri !£?
CM
CO CM
CO 05
CM "~
co m
<D-
CM
CO
CM
o o
CO
CM
oo e
8-
E
O E
3
2
3
B ™
CO — 1
M-
CM
co m
iri 3
CM
CM *"
CD "<T
CD
">» CD
5 3
CM *~
h» CO
iri 5»
CM ^
CD
CD ^
CM w
in cd
CD 05
CM
co e
E
E
Ql
3
9 2
, — 3
o
Copyrighted material
THE LAND 29
A NOTE ON READING
THE FIJI CLIMATE CHART
The top figure indicates the average monthly
temperatures in degrees and tenths centigrade,
while the monthly rainfall average in millimeters is
given below. The last column gives the average
annual temperature and the total precipitation
during the year. These figures have been aver-
aged over a minimum of 10 years, in most cases
much longer. Altitude is a factor at Nadarivatu
(835 meters); all the others are very near sea
level. You will notice that the temperatures don't
vary too much year-round, but there is a pro-
nounced dry season midyear. Note, too. that
some areas of Fiji are far drier than others.
SUVA'S CLIMATE
places coral reefs are already protected. Appeals
such as the one above have only limited impact-
legislators must write stricter laws and impose
fines. If you witness dumping or any other marine-
related activity that you think may be illegal, don't
become directly involved but do take a few notes
and calmly report the incident to the local au-
thorities or police at the first opportunity. You'll
learn something about their approach to these
matters and make them aware of your concerns.
Resort developers can minimize damage to
their valuable reefs by providing public mooring
buoys so yachts don't have to drop anchor and
pontoons and so snorkelers aren't tempted to
stand on coral. Licensing authorities can make
such amenities mandatory whenever appropri-
ate, and, in extreme cases, endangered coral
gardens should be declared oft limits to private
boats. As consumerism spreads, once-remote
areas become subject to the problems of pollution
and overexploitation. For example, the garbage is
visibly piling up on many shores. As a visitor, do
take a conservationist approach. For as Marshall
McLuhan said, "On Spaceship Earth, there are no
passengers, we are all members of the crew."
CLIMATE
Along the coast the weather is warm and pleas-
ant, without great variations in temperature. The
southeast trades prevail from June to October,
the best months to visit. In February and March
F°
90°
80°
UJ
| 70°
5 60°
2
UJ
»- 50°
m
i
u
z
<
18"
16"
14"
12"
10"
8"
6"
4"
2"
90°
80°
UJ
DC
3 70°
£ 60°
s
UJ
K 50°
18"
16"
14"
12"
10"
8"
6"
4"
2"
(A
UJ
I
O
<
■
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
0
N
D
s
ANNUAL
AVERAGE
77.2°F/25.1°C
ANNUAL
124.48 In
3161 mm
30°
25°
20°
15°
450
400
350 £
300 F
Uj
250 2
200 jj
150 5
100
50
NADI'S CLIMATE
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
0
N
D
ANNUAL
AVERAGE
77.8°F/25.4°C
ANNUAL
75.64 In
1921 mm
30°
25°
20°
15°
450
400
350
300
250
200
150
100
50
in
<r
UJ
i-
ui
30 INTRODUCTION
TROPICAL HURRICANES
The official hurricane (or cyclone) season south of
the equator is November to April, although hurricanes
can occur in May and October. Since the ocean pro-
vides the energy, these low pressure systems can
only form over water with a surface temperature above
27° C; during years when water temperatures are
high (such as during the recent El Nino) their fre-
quency increases. The rotation of the earth gives the
storm its initial spin, and this occurs mostly between
latitudes five and 20 on either side of the equator.
As rainfall increases and the seas rise, the winds
are drawn into a spiral that reaches its maximum
speed in a ring around the center. In the South Pa-
cific a cvclone develops as these circular winds, ro-
W' ■ * W J W' W" ■ W WW » ■ W f^W V* W »• 1 W W^* W«» WW ' ' »^«Wf ■
tating clockwise around a center, increase in veloc-
the wind often comes directly out of the east.
These winds dump 3,000 mm of annual rainfall on
the humid southeast coasts of the big islands,
increasing to 5,000 mm inland. The drier north-
west coasts, in the lee, get only 1 ,500-2,000 mm.
The dry season (June to October) is not always
dry at Suva, although much of the rain falls at
night. In addition, Fiji's winter (May to November),
the preferred months for mountain trekking, is
cooler and less humid. During the drier season
the reef waters are clearest for the scuba diver. Yet
even during the rainy summer months (December
to April), bright sun often follows the rains, and
tne ram is only a sngnt inconvenience. I ne trace
winds relieve the high humidity. Summer is hurri-
cane season, with Fiji, Samoa, and Tonga re-
ceiving up to five tropical storms annually.
In Fiji you can obtain prerecorded weather
information by dialing 301 -642. The same infor-
mation is available on online at www.met.gov.fj.
Currents and Winds
The Pacific Ocean has a greater impact on the
world's climate than any other geographical fea-
ture on earth. By moving heat away from the
equator and toward the poles, it stretches the
bounds of the area in which life can exist. Broad
circular ocean currents flow from east to west
across the tropical Pacific, clockwise in the North
ity: force eight to nine winds blowing at 34 to 47
knots are called a gale, force 10 to 1 1 at 48 to 63
knots is a storm, force 1 2 winds revolving at 64 knots
or more is e hurricane. Wind speeds can go as high
as 100 knots with gusts to 140 on the left side of
the storm's path in the direction it's moving.
The eye of the hurricane can be 10 to 30 kilometers
wide and surpnsing clear and calm, although at sea
contradictory wave patterns continue to wreak havoc.
In the South Pacific most hurricanes move south at
speeds of five to 20 knots. As water is sucked into the
low-pressure eye of the hurricane and waves reach 14
meters in height, coastlines can receive a surge of up
to four meters of water, especially if the storm en-
ters a narrowing bay or occurs at high tide.
Pacific, counterclockwise in the South Pacific.
North and south of the "horse latitudes" just out-
side the tropics the currents cool and swing east.
The prevailing winds push the same way: the
southeast trade winds south of the equator, the
northeast trade winds north of the equator, and
the low-pressure aoiurums in oetween. west-
erlies blow east above the cool currents north
and south of the tropics. This natural air-condi-
tioning system brings warm water to Australia
and Japan, cooler water to Peru and California.
The climate of the high islands is closely re-
lated to these winds. As air is heated near the
equator it rises and flows at high altitudes to-
ward the poles. By the time it reaches about 30
degrees south latitude it will have cooled enough
to cause it to fall and flow back toward the equa-
tor near sea level. In the southern hemisphere
the rotation of the earth deflects the winds to
tne lert to oecome tne southeast trades. When
these cool moist trade winds hit a high island,
they are warmed by the sun and forced up.
Above 500 meters elevation they begin to cool
again and their moisture condenses into clouds.
At night the winds do not capture much warmth
and are more likely to discharge their moisture as
rain. The windward slopes of the high islands
catch the trades head-on and are usually wet,
while those on the leeward side may be dry.
Copyrighted material
FLORA AND FAUNA 31
FLORA AND FAUNA
FLORA
The flora of Fiji originated in the Malaysian re-
gion; in the two regions, ecological niches are
filled by similar plants. Over 3,000 species of
plants grow in Fiji, of which 476 are indigenous to
Fiji and 10 percent of those are found only here.
Taveuni i<i known for it<? rarp Himhinn tanimauria
flower. The absence of leaf-eating animals in
Fiji allowed the vegetation to develop largely
without the protective spines and thorns found
elsewhere, and one of the only stinging plants is
the salato, a shrub or tree bearing large, heart-
shaped leaves with purple ribs and ragged edges
that inflict painful wounds when touched. Hairs on
the leaves break off in the skin and the intense
stinging pain begins half a minute later. This
soon diminishes into an itch that becomes painful
again if scratched. The itch can recur weeks
and even months later.
Patterns of rainfall are in large part responsi-
ble for the variety of vegetation here. The wetter
sides of the high islands are heavily forested,
with occasional thickets of bamboo and scrub.
Natural forests cover 40 percent of Fiji's total
land area and about a quarter of these forests
are classified as production forest suitable for
logging. The towering dakua or kauri tree, once
carved into massive Fijian war canoes, has al-
ready disappeared from Viti Levu, and the last
stands are now being logged on Vanua Levu.
Since the 1960s much replanting has been done
in mahogany, a hardwood originating in Central
American. The native yaka is a conifer whose
wood has an attractive grain.
Coconut groves fill the coastal plains. On the
drier sides open savanna or talasiga of coarse
grasses predominates where the original vege-
tation has been destroyed by slash-and-bum agri-
culture. Sugarcane is now cultivated in the low-
lands here, and Caribbean pine has been planted
in many dry hilly areas, giving them a Scandina-
vian appearance. Around Christmas, poinciana or
flame trees along the roads bloom bright red. The
low islands of the Lau Group are restricted to a
few hardy, drought-resistant species such as co-
conuts and pandanus. Well drained shorelines
often feature ironwood or nokonoko, a casuarina
appreciated by woodcarvers.
Mangroves can occasionally be found along
some high island coastal lagoons. The cable
roots of the saltwater-tolerant red mangrove an-
chor in the shallow upper layer of oxygenated
mud. avoiding the layers of hydrogen sulfide
below. The tree provides shade for tiny organ-
isms dwelling in the tidal mudflats— a place for
birds to nest and for fish or shellfish to feed and
spawn. The mangroves also perform the same
task as land-building coral colonies along the
reefs. As sediments are trapped between the
roots, the trees extend farther into the lagoon,
creating a unique natural environment. The past
decade has seen widespread destruction of the
mangroves as land is reclaimed for agricultural
use in northwest Viti Levu and around Labasa.
Many of Fiji's forest plants have medicinal ap-
plications which have recently attracted the at-
tention of patent-hungry pharmaceutical giants
such as SmithKline Beecham. The sap of the
tree fern (balabala) was formerly used as a cure
for headaches by Fijians and its heart was eaten
in times of famine.
Though only introduced to Fiji in the late 1860s,
sugarcane probably originated in the South Pa-
cific. On New Guinea the islanders have culti-
vated the plant for thousands of years, select-
ing vigorous varieties with the most colorful
stems. The story goes that two Melanesian fish-
ermen, To-Kabwana and To-Karavuvu, found a
piece of sugarcane in their net one day. They
threw it away, but after twice catching it again
they decided to keep it and painted the stalk a
bright color. Eventually the cane burst and a
woman came forth. She cooked food for the men
but hid herself at night. Finally she was captured
and became the wife of one of the men. From
their union sprang the whole human race.
FAUNA
Some Fijian clans have totemic relationships
with eels, prawns, turtles, and sharks, and are
Copyrighted material
32 INTRODUCTION
able to summon these creatures with special
chants. Red prawns are called on Vanua Vatu in
Southern Lau, on a tiny island off Naweni in
southern Vanua Levu, and on Vatulele Island.
The Nasaqalau people of Lakeba in southern
Lau call sharks, and villagers of Korolevu in cen-
tral Viti Levu call eels. The women of Namuana
on Kadavu summon giant sea turtles with their
chants. Turtle calling is also practiced at Naca-
maki village, in the northeast corner of Koro.
Unfortunately sea turtles are becoming so rare
that the turtle callers are having less and less
success each year.
Mammals
The first Fijians brought with them pigs, dogs,
chickens, and gray rats. The only native mam-
mals are the monkey-faced fruit bat or flying fox,
called beka by the Fijians, and the smaller, in-
sect-eating bat.
The Indian mongoose was introduced by
planters in the 1 880s to combat rats, which were
damaging the plantations. Unfortunately, no one
realized at the time that the mongoose hunts by
day, whereas the rats are nocturnal so the two
seldom meet. Today, the mongoose is the
scourge of chickens, native ground birds, igua-
nas, and other animals, though Kadavu, Koro,
Gau, Ovalau, and Taveuni are mongoose-free
(and thus the finest islands for birdwatching).
Feral cats do the same sort of damage.
Sealife
Fiji's richest store of life is found in the silent un-
derwater world of the pelagic and lagoon fishes.
It's estimated that half the fish remaining on our
globe are swimming in the Pacific. Coral pinna-
cles on the lagoon floor provide a safe haven
for angelfish, butterfly fish, damselfish, groupers,
soiaiemsn, surgeontisn, triggemsn, trumpet nsn,
and countless more. These fish seldom venture
more than a few meters away from the protective
coral, but larger fish such as barracuda, jack-
fish, parrot fish, pike, stingrays, and small sharks
range across lagoon waters that are seldom
deeper than 30 meters. The external side of the
reef is also home to many of the above, but the
open ocean is reserved for bonito, mahimahi,
swordfish, tuna, wrasses, and the larger sharks.
Passes between ocean and lagoon can be
crowded with fish in transit, offering a favorite
hunting ground for predators.
In the open sea the food chain begins with
phytoplankton, which flourish wherever ocean
upwellings bring nutrients such as nitrates and
phosphates to the surface. In the western Pacific
this occurs near the equator, where massive
currents draw water away toward Japan and
Australia. Large schools of fast-moving tuna ply
these waters feeding on smaller fish, which con-
sume tiny phytoplankton drifting near the sunlit
surface. The phytoplankton also exist in tropi-
cal lagoons where mangrove leaves, sea grass-
es, and other plant material are consumed by
far more varied populations of reef fish, mol-
lusks, and crustaceans.
Sharks
The danger from sharks has been exaggerat-
ed. Of some 300 different species, only 28 are
known to have attacked humans. Most danger-
ous are the white, tiger, and blue sharks. Fortu-
nately, all of these inhabit deep water far from the
coasts. An average of only 50 shark attacks a
year occur worldwide, so considering the number
of people who swim in the sea, your chances
ot Deing invoivea are aDout one in a minion, in tne
South Pacific shark attacks on snorkelers or
scuba divers are extremely rare and the tiny
mosquito is a far more dangerous predator.
Sharks are not aggressive where food is abun-
dant, but they can be very nasty far offshore.
You're always safer if you keep your head un-
derwater (with a mask and snorkel), and don't
panic if you see a shark— you might attract it.
Even if you do, they're usually only curious, so
keep your eye on the shark and slowly back off.
The swimming techniques of humans must seem
very clumsy to fish, so it's not surprising if they
want a closer look.
Sharks are attracted by shiny objects (a knife
or jewelry), bright colors (especially yellow and
red), urine, blood, spearfishing, and splashing
(divers should ease themselves into the water).
Sharks normally stay outside the reef, but get
local advice. White beaches are safer than dark,
and clear water safer than murky. Avoid swim-
ming in places where sewage or edible wastes
enter the water, or where fish have just been
cleaned. Slaughterhouses sometimes attract
sharks to an area by dumping offal into the near-
by sea. You should also exercise care in places
Copyrighted material
FLORA AND FAUNA 33
where local residents have been fishing with
spears or even hook and line that day.
Never swim alone if you suspect the pres-
ence of sharks. If you see one. even a suppos-
edly harmless nurse shark lying on the bottom,
get out of the water calmly and quickly, and go
elsewhere. Studies indicate that sharks, like
most other creatures, have a "personal space"
around them that they will defend. Thus an attack
could be a shark s way of warning someone to
keep his distance, and it's a fact that over half the
victims of these incidents are not eaten but mere-
ly bitten. Sharks are less of a problem in the
South Pacific than in colder waters because
small marine mammals (commonly hunted by
sharks) are rare here, so you won't be mistaken
for a seal or an otter.
Let common sense be your guide, not irra-
tional fear or carelessness. Many scuba divers
come actually looking for sharks, and local di-
vemasters seem able to swim among them with
impunity. If you're in the market for some shark
action, many dive shops can provide it. Just be
aware that getting into the water with feeding
sharks always entails some danger, and the di-
vemaster who admits this and lays down some
basic safety guidelines (such as keeping your
hands clasped or arms folded) is probably a
safer bet than the macho man who just says
he's been doing it for years without incident.
Never snorkel on your own (without an experi-
enced guide) near a spot where sharks are fed
regularly since you never know how the sharks
will react to a surface swimmer without any food
for them. Like all other wild animals, sharks de-
serve to be approached with respect.
Sea Urchins
Sea urchins (living pincushions) are common in
tropical waters. The black variety is the most
dangerous: their long, sharp quills can go right
through a snorkeler's fins. Even the small ones,
which you can easily pick up in your hand, can
pinch you if you're careless. They're found on
rocky shores and reefs, never on clear, sandy
beaches where the surf rolls in.
Most sea urchins are not poisonous, though
quill punctures are painful and can become in-
fected if not treated. The pain is caused by an in-
jected protein, which you can eliminate by hold-
ing the injured area in a pail of very hot water for
about 15 minutes. This will coagulate the protein,
eliminating the pain for good. If you can't heat
water, soak the area in vinegar or urine for a
quarter hour. Remove the quills if possible, but
being made of calcium, they'll decompose in a
couple of weeks anyway— not much of a con-
solation as you limp along in the meantime. In
some places sea urchins are considered a deli-
cacy: the orange or yellow urchin gonads are
delicious with lemon and salt.
Other Hazardous Creatures
Although jellyfish, stonefish, crown-of-thorns
starfish, cone shells, eels, and poisonous sea
snakes are dangerous, injuries resulting from
any of these are rare. Gently apply methylated
spirit, alcohol, or urine (but not water, kerosene,
or gasoline) to areas stung by jellyfish. Inoffensive
sea cucumbers (beche-de-mer) punctuate the
lagoon shallows, but stonefish also rest on the
bottom and are hard to see due to camouflaging;
if you happen to step on one, its dorsal fins inject
a painful poison, which bums like fire in the blood.
Fortunately, stonefish are not common.
It's worth knowing that the venom produced by
most marine animals is destroyed by heat, so
your first move should be to soak the injured
part in very hot water for 30 minutes. (Also hold
an opposite foot or hand in the same water to
prevent scalding due to numbness.) Other au-
thorities claim the best first aid is to squeeze
blood from a sea cucumber scraped raw on coral
directly onto the wound. If a hospital or clinic is
nearby, go there immediately.
Never pick up a live cone shell; some vari-
eties have a deadly stinger dart coming out from
the pointed end. The tiny blue-ring octopus is
only five centimeters long but packs a poison
that can kill a human. Eels hide in reef crevices
by day; most are harmful only if you inadver-
tently poke your hand or foot in at them. Of
course, never tempt fate by approaching them
(fun-loving divemasters sometimes feed the big
ones by hand and stroke their backs).
Birds
Of the 70 species of land birds, 22 are endemic, in-
cluding broadbills, cuckoos, doves, fantails, finch-
es, flycatchers, fruitdoves, hawks, herons, non-
copyrighted material
34 INTRODUCTION
pink-billed
parrot finch
eyeaters, kingfishers, lorikeets, owls, parrots, pi-
geons, rails, robins, silktails. swallows, thrushes,
warblers, whistlers, and white-eyes. The Fijian
names of some of these birds, such as the kaka
(parrot), ga (gray duck), and kikau
(giant honey eater), imitate their
calls. Red and green kula lori-
keets are often seen in pop-
ulated areas collecting nec-
tar and pollen from flowering
trees or feeding on fruit. Of
the seabirds. boobies, frigate
birds, petrels, and tropic birds
are present. The best time
to observe forest birds is in
the very early morning —
they move around a lot less in the
heat of the day.
More in evidence is the intro-
duced Indian mynah, with its yellow legs and beak,
the Indian bulbul. and the Malay turtledove. The
hopping Indian mynah bird (Acridotheres tristis),
was introduced to many islands from Indonesia at
the turn of the century to control insects, which
were damaging the citrus and coconut planta-
tions. The mynahs multiplied profusely and have
become major pests, inflicting great harm on
the very trees they were brought in to protect.
Worse still, many indigenous birds are
forced out of their habitat by these noisy,
aggressive birds. This and rapid deforesta-
tion by man have made the South Pacific
the region with the highest proportion of en-
dangered endemic bird species on earth.
Reptiles and Amphibians
Three of the world's seven species of sea tur-
tles nest in Fiji: the green, hawksbill, and
tree frog
leatherback. Nesting occurs between Novem-
ber and February, at night when there is a full
moon and a high tide. Sea turtles lay their eggs
on the beach from which they themselves origi-
nally hatched. The female struggles up the beach
and lays as many as 100 eggs in a hole, which
she digs and then covers with her hind flippers.
Female turtles don't commence this activity until
they are 20 years old. thus a drop in numbers
today has irreversible consequences a generation
later. It's estimated that breeding females al-
ready number in the hundreds or low thousands,
and all species of these magnificent creatures
(sometimes erroneously referred to as "tortoises")
now face extinction due to ruthless hunting, egg
harvesting, and beach destruction. Turtles are
often choked by floating plastic bags they mistake
for food, or they drown in fishing nets. The
Fiji Fisheries Department estimates
that between 1980 and 1989 over
10,000 hawksbill turtle
shells were exported
to Japan. The turtles
and their eggs are
now protected by law
in Fiji (maximum
penalty of six months
in prison for killing a tur-
tle). Sadly, this law is seldom
enforced.
Geckos and skinks are small lizards often seen
on the islands. The skink hunts insects by day; its
tail breaks off if you catch it, but a new one quick-
ly grows. The gecko is nocturnal and has no eye-
lids. Adhesive toe pads enable it to pass along
vertical surfaces, and it changes color to avoid
detection. Unlike the skink, which avoids humans,
banded iguana
FLORA AND FAUNA 35
geckos often live in people s homes, where they
eat insects attracted by electric lights. Its loud
clicking call may be a territorial warning to other
geckos.
One of the more unusual creatures found in
Fiji and Tonga is the banded iguana, a lizard
that lives in trees and can grow up to 70 cen-
timeters long (two-thirds of which is tail). The
iguanas are emerald green, and the male is eas-
ily distinguished from the female by his bluish-
gray cross stripes. Banded iguanas change color
to control their internal temperature, becoming
darker when in the direct sun. Their nearest rel-
atives are found in Central America, and how
they could have reached Fiji remains a mystery.
In 1979 a new species, the crested iguana, was
discovered on Yaduataba, a small island off the
west coast of Vanua Levu.
Two species of snakes inhabit Fiji: the very
rare, poisonous bolo loa, and the harmless Pa-
cific boa, which can grow up to two meters long.
Venomous sea snakes are common on some
coasts, but they're docile and easily handled.
Fijians call the common banded black-and-white
sea snake the dadakulaci. The land- and tree-
dwelling native frogs are noteworthy for the long
suction discs on their fingers and toes. Because
they live deep in the rainforests and feed at night,
they're seldom seen.
In 1936 the giant toad was introduced from
Hawaii to control beetles, slugs, and millipedes.
When this food source is exhausted, they tend to
eat each other. At night gardens and lawns may
be full of them.
Insects and Arachnids
Not to be confused with the inoffensive milli-
pedes are the poisonous centipedes found in
Fiji. While the millipede will roll up when touched,
the centipede may inflict a painful sting through its
front legs. The two types are easily distinguished
by the number of pairs of legs per body seg-
mem. oei uiptfutJb out;, iTiiiii(Jt;ufc;b iwu. nji b idiycbi
centipedes grow up to 1 8 centimeters long and
can have anywhere from 1 5 to 1 80 pairs of legs.
These nocturnal creatures feed on insects and
may be found in houses while the two species of
scorpions dwell only in the forest.
Copyrighted material
36 INTRODUCTION
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT
HISTORY
The Pre-European Period
The first people to arrive in Fiji were members of
a broad-nosed, light-skinned Austronesian-
speaking race, probably the Polynesians. They
originated in insular Southeast Asia and gradu-
ally migrated east past the already occupied is-
lands of Melanesia. Distinctive Lapita pottery,
decorated in horizontal geometric bands and
dated from 1290 B.C., has been found in the
sand dunes near Sigatoka, indicating they had
reached here by 1500 B.C. or earlier. Much later,
about 500 B.C., Melanesian people arrived,
bringing with them their own distinct pottery tra-
ditions. From the fusion of these primordial peo-
ples was the Fijian race born.
The hierarchical social structure of the early Fi-
jians originated with the Polynesians. Status and
descent passed through the male line, and power
was embodied in the turaga (chief). The heredi-
tary chiefs possessed the mana of an ancestral
spirit or vu. Yet under the vasu system a chiefly
woman's son could lay claim to the property of his
mother's brothers, and such relationships com-
bined with polygamy kept society in a state of
constant strife. This feudal aristocracy com-
bined in confederations, or vanua, which
extended their influence through war
Treachery and cannibalism were
an intrinsic part of these strug-
gles; women were taken as
prizes or traded to form al
liances. For defense, villages
were fortified with ring ditch-
es, or built along ridges or
terraced hillsides.
The native aristocracy
practiced customs that
today seem barbarous
and particularly cruel.
The skull cap of a
defeated enemy might be polished and used as
a yaqona (kava) cup to humiliate a foe. Some
chiefs even took delight in cooking and con-
suming body parts as their agonized victims
looked on. Men were buried alive to hold up
the posts of new houses, war canoes were
launched over the living bodies of young girls,
and the widows of chiefs were strangled to
keep their husbands company in the spirit
world. The farewells of some of these women
are remembered today in dances and songs
known as meke.
These feudal islanders were, on the other
hand, guardians of one of the highest material
cultures of the Pacific. They built great ocean-
going double canoes (drua) up to 30 meters
long, constructed and adorned large solid
thatched houses (bures), performed marvelous
song-dances called meke, made tapa, pottery,
and sennit (coconut cordage), and skillfully plait-
ed mats. For centuries the Tongans came to Fiji
to obtain great logs for making canoes and san-
dalwood for carving.
European Exploration
In 1643 Abel Tasman became the European dis-
coverer of Fiji when he sighted Taveuni, al-
though he didn't land. Tasman was search-
ing for terra australis incognita, a great southern
continent believed to balance the continents of
the north. He also hoped to find new markets
and trade routes. Unlike earlier Spanish ex-
plorers, Tasman entered the Pacific from
the west rather than the east. He was the
first European to see Tasmania, New
Zealand, and Tonga, as well as
Fiji. By sailing right around Aus-
tralia from the Dutch East
Indies he proved New
Holland (Australia)
was not attached to
the elusive southern
continent.
Fijian drua
(double-hulled canoe)
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT 37
FIJI ISLANDS CHRONOLOGY
1 500 B.C. Polynesians reach Fiji
500 B.C. Melanesians reach Fiji
1643 Abel Tasman sights Taveuni
1 774 Captain Cook visits southern Lau
1789 Bligh and crew paddle past Yasawas
1800 sandalwood discovered on Vanua Levu
1 820 beche-de-mer trade begins
1827 Dumont d'Urville visits Bau
1830 Tahitian missionaries arrive in southern Lau
1835 Methodist missionaries arrive at Lakeba
1840 American Exploring Expedition visits Fiji
1847 Tongan invasion of Lau led by Enele Ma'afu
1849 home of John Brown Williams burns
1851 first visit by hostile American gunboats
1 854 Chief Cakobau accepts Christianity
1 855 Cakobau puts down the Rewa revolt
1858 first British consul arrives in Fiji
1860 founding of the town of Levuka
1 862 Britain refuses to annex Fiji
1865 confederacy of Fijian chiefs formed
1867 American warship threatens to shell Levuka
1 868 Polynesia Company granted the site of Suva
1871 Cakobau and Thurston form a government
1 874 Fiji becomes a British colony
1875 measles epidemic kills a third of Fijians
1879 first indentured Indian laborers arrive
1881 first large sugar mill built at Nauson
1881 Rotuma annexed to Fiji
1882 capital moved from Levuka to Suva
1 904 first elected Legislative Council
1916 Indian immigration ends
1920 indenture system terminated
1928 first flight from Hawaii lands at Suva
1939 Nadi Airport built
1940 Native Land Trust Board established
1942 Fijian troops sent to the Solomons
1951 Fiji Airways (later Air Pacific) formed
1953 Queen Elizabeth II visits Fiji
1965 Constitutional Convention held in London
1 966 internal self-government achieved
1 968 University of the South Pacific established
1970 Fiji's first constitution adopted
1970 Fiji becomes independent
1 973 sugar industry nationalized
1 977 governor-general overturns election results
1 978 Fijian peacekeeping troops sent to Lebanon
1981 Fijian troops sent to the Sinai
1 983 Monasavu Hydroelectric Project opens
1987 Labor defeats Alliance Party
1987 two military coups led by Lieutenant Colonel
Rabuka
1987 Rabuka declares Fiji a republic
1987 Fiji expelled from British Commonwealth
1 990 racially weighted constitution promulgated
1992 Rabuka elected under gerrymandered
constitution
1 997 constitution revised to allow common roll voting
1 997 Fiji readmitted to the Commonwealth
1 998 revised constitution comes into effect
1999 Labor Party under Mahendra Chaudhry
2000 civil coup in May topples government
2001 Court of Appeals rules on legality of coup
In 1774. Captain Cook anchored off Vatoa in
southern Lau. Like Tasman he failed to proceed
farther or land. It was left to Capt. William Bligh to
give Europeans an accurate picture of Fiji for the
first time. After the Bounty mutiny in May 1 789.
Bligh and his companions were chased by canoe-
loads of Fijian warriors just north of the Yasawa Is-
lands as they rowed through on their escape route
to Timor. Some serious paddling, a timely squall.
and a lucky gap in the Great Sea Reef saved the
Englishmen from ending up as the main course at
a cannibal feast. The section of sea where this
happened is now known as Bligh Water. Bligh cut
directly across the center of Fiji between the two
main islands, and his careful observations made
him the first real European explorer of Fiji, albeit an
unwilling one. Bligh returned to Fiji in 1792, but
once again he stayed aboard his ship.
Copyrighted material
38 INTRODUCTION
CANNIBALISM
It has been said that the Fijians were extremely hospitable to any
strangers they did not wish to eat. Native voyagers who wrecked
on their shores, who arrived "with salt water in their eyes," were
liable to be killed and eaten, since all shipwrecked persons
were believed to have been cursed and abandoned by the
gods. Many European sailors from wrecked vessels shared
the same fate. Cannibalism was a universal practice, and pris-
oners taken in war, or even women seized while fishing, were in-
variably eaten Most of the early European accounts of Fiji em-
phasized this trait to the exclusion of almost everything else; at
one time, the island group was even referred to as the "Canni-
bal Isles." By eating the flesh of the conquered enemy, one in-
flicted the ultimate revenge. One chief on Viti Levu is said to
have consumed 872 people and to have made a pile of stones
to record his achievement. The leaves of a certain vegetable
(Solarium uporo) were wrapped around the human meat, and it
was cooked in an earthen oven Wooden forks such as the
one pictured were employed at cannibal feasts. Men who usu-
ally relied on their fingers to eat other food, used the
implements because it was considered
improper to touch human flesh
with fingers or lips.
White beachcombers such as the
Swedish adventurer Charles Sav-
age and the German Martin Bushart
acted as middlemen between
traders and Fijians and took sides
in local conflicts. In one skirmish
Savage was separated from his fel-
lows, captured, and eaten. With help
from the likes of Savage, Naulivou,
the cannibal chief of tiny Bau Island
just off eastern Viti Levu, and his
brother Tanoa extended their influ-
ence over much of western Fiji.
In his book Following the Equator,
Mark Twain had this to say about
the beachcombers:
They lived worthless lives of sin
and luxury, and died
without honor — in
most cases by violeture.
Only one of them had
any ambition; he was
an Irishman named Con-
nor. He tried to raise a family of
fifty children and scored forty-
eight. He died lamenting his fail-
UK, It was a foolish sort of avarice.
Many a father would have been
Beachcombers and Chiefs
All of these early explorers stressed the perilous
nature of Fiji's reefs. This, combined with tales
told by the Tongans of cannibalism and warlike
Fijian natives, caused most travelers to shun
the area. Then in 1800 a survivor from the ship-
wrecked American schooner Argo brought word
that sandalwood grew in abundance along the
Bua coast of Vanua Levu. This precipitated a
rush of traders and beachcombers to the is-
lands. A cargo of sandalwood bought from the is-
landers for $50 worth of trinkets could be sold to
the Chinese in Canton for S20.000. By 1814 the
forests had been stripped to provide joss sticks
and incense, and the trade collapsed.
During this period Fiji was divided among war-
ring chieftains. The first Europeans to actually
mix with the Fijians were escaped convicts from
Australia, who showed the natives how to use
European muskets and were thus well received.
rich enough with forty.
From 1820 to 1850 European traders collect-
ed beche-de-mer, a sea cucumber which, when
smoked and dried, also brought a good price in
China. While the sandalwood traders onfy stayed
long enough to take on a load, the beche-de-
mer collectors set up shore facilities where the
slugs were processed. Many traders such as
David Whippy followed the example of the
beachcombers and took local wives, establishing
the part-Fijian community of today. By monopo-
lizing the beche-de-mer trade and constantly
warring, Chief Tanoa's son and successor, Ratu
Seru Cakobau (pronounced "tha-kom-BAU"),
became extremely powerful in the 1840s, pro-
claiming himself Tui Viti, or king of Fiji.
The beginnings of organized trade brought a
second wave of official explorers to Fiji. In 1827
Dumont d'Urville landed on Bau Island and met
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT 39
Tanoa. The Frenchmen caused consternation
and confusion by refusing to drink yaqona (kava),
preferring their own wine. The American Ex-
ploring Expedition of 1840, led by Commodore
Charles Wilkes, produced the first recognizable
map of Fiji. When two Americans, including a
nephew of Wilkes, were speared in a misunder-
standing on a beach at Malolo Island, Wilkes
ordered the offending fortified village stormed
and 87 Fijians were killed. The survivors were
made to water and provision Wilkes's ships as
tribute. Captain H.M. Denham of the HMS Herald
prepared accurate navigational charts of the is-
land group in 1855-56, making regular com-
merce possible.
European and Tongan Penetration
As early as the 1830s an assortment of Euro-
pean and American beachcombers had formed
a small settlement at Levuka on the east coast of
Ovalau Island just northeast of Bau, which
whalers and traders used as a supply base. In
1 846 John Brown Williams was appointed Amer-
ican commercial agent, one step below a consul.
On July 4, 1849, Williams's home on Nukulau Is-
land near present-day Suva burned down.
Though the conflagration was caused by the ex-
plosion of a cannon during Williams's own fervent
celebration of his national holiday, he objected to
the way Fijian onlookers carried off items they
rescued from the flames. A shameless swindler.
Williams had purchased Nukulau for only $30,
yet he blamed the Tui Viti for his losses and sent
Cakobau a $5,001.38 bill. American claims for
damages eventually rose to $45,000. and in
1851 and 1855 American gunboats called and
ordered Cakobau to pay up. This threat hung
over Cakobau's head for many years, the 19th-
century equivalent of 20th-century third world
debt. Increasing American involvement in Fiji
led the British to appoint a consul, W.T. Pritchard,
who arrived in 1858.
The early 1830s also saw the arrival from
Tonga of the first missionaries. Though Tahit-
lan pastors were sent by the London Missionary
Society to Oneata in southern Lau as early as
1830, it was the Methodists based at Lakeba
after 1835 who made the most lasting impression
by rendering the Fijian language into writing. At
first Christianity made little headway among
these fierce, idolatrous people, and only after
converting the powerful chiefs were the mis-
sionaries successful. Methodist missionaries
Cargill and Cross were appalled by what they
saw during a visit to Bau in 1838. A white mis-
sionary, Rev. Thomas Baker, was clubbed and
eaten in central Viti Levu by the kai colo (hill
people) as late as 1 867.
In 1847 Enele Ma'afu, a member of the Ton-
gan royal family, arrived in Lau and began build-
ing a personal empire under the pretense of de-
fending Christianity. In 1853 King George of
Tonga made Ma'afu governor of all Tongans
resident in Lau. Meanwhile, there was continuing
resistance from the warlords of the Rewa River
area to Cakobau's dominance. In addition the
Europeans at Levuka suspected Cakobau of
twice ordering their town set afire and were di-
recting trade away from Bau. With his power in
decline, in 1854 Cakobau accepted Christianity
in exchange for an alliance with King George,
and in 1855. with the help of 2.000 Tongans led
by King George himself, Cakobau was able to
put down the Rewa revolt at the Battle of Kaba.
In the process, however, Ma'afu became the
dominant force in Lau, Taveuni, and Vanua Levu.
During the early 1860s, as Americans fought
their Civil War, the world price of cotton soared,
and large numbers of Europeans arrived in Fiji
hoping to establish cotton plantations. In 1867
the USS Tuscaroga called at Levuka and threat-
ened to bombard the town unless the still-out-
standing American debt was paid. The next year
an enterprising Australian firm, the Polynesia
Company, paid off the Americans in exchange
for a grant from Cakobau of 80,000 hectares of
choice land, including the site of modern Suva.
The British government later refused to recognize
this grant, though they refunded the money paid
to the Americans and accepted the claims of
settlers who had purchased land from the com-
pany. Settlers soon numbered around 2.000 and
Levuka boomed.
It was a lawless era, and a need was felt for a
central government. An attempt at national rule
by a confederacy of chiefs lasted two years until
failing in 1867, then three regional governments
were set up in Bau (western), Lau (eastern),
and Bua (northern), but these were only partly
successful. With prices for Fiji's "Sea Island"
cotton collapsing as the American South re-
sumed production, a national administration
Copyrighted material
40 INTRODUCTION
under Cakobau and planter John Thurston was
established at Levuka in 1871.
However, Cakobau was never strong enough
to impose his authority over the whole country, so
with growing disorder in western Fiji, infighting
between Europeans and Fijian chiefs, and a lack
of cooperation from Ma'afu's rival confederation
of chiefs in eastern Fiji, Cakobau decided he
should cede his kingdom to Great Britain. The
British had refused an invitation to annex Fiji in
1862, but this time they accepted rather than
risk seeing the group fall into the hands of an-
other power, and on October 10, 1874, Fiji be-
came a British colony. A punitive expedition into
central Viti Levu in 1876 brought the hill tribes
(kai colo) under British rule. In 1877 the Western
Pacific High Commission was set up to protect
British interests in the surrounding unclaimed
island groups as well. In 1881 Rotuma was an-
nexed to Fiji. At first Levuka was the colony's
capital, but in 1882 the government moved to a
more spacious site at Suva.
The Making of a Nation
The first British governor. Sir Arthur Gordon,
and his colonial secretary and successor, Sir
John Thurston, created modern Fiji almost sin-
gle-handedly. They realized that the easiest way
to rule was indirectly, through the existing Fijian
chiefs. To protect the communal lands on which
the chieftain system was based, they ordered
that native land could not be sold, only leased.
Not wishing to disturb native society, Gordon
and Thurston ruled that Fijians could not be re-
quired to work on European plantations. Mean-
while the blackbirding of Melanesian laborers
from the Solomons and New Hebrides had been
restricted by the Polynesian Islanders Protec-
tion Act of 1872.
By this time sugar had taken the place of cot-
ton and there was a tremendous labor shortage
on the plantations. Gordon, who had previously
served in Trinidad and Mauritius, saw inden-
tured Indian workers as a solution. The first ar-
rived in 1879, and by 1916, when Indian immi-
gration ended, there were 63,000. To come to Fiji
the Indians had to sign a labor contract (girmit) in
which they agreed to cut sugarcane for their
masters for five years. During the next five years
they were allowed to lease small plots of their
own from the Fijians and plant cane or raise live-
Blackbirded Solomon Islanders, brought to
work on European-owned plantations in Fiji,
wait aboard a ship off Levuka around the turn
of the 20th century. In 1910, the Melanesian
labor trade was finally terminated by the
British, but a few Solomon Islanders stayed
on, and small communities of their
descendants exist on Ovalau and near Suva.
stock. Over half the Indians decided to remain in
Fiji as free settlers after their 1 0-year contracts
expired, and today their descendants form near-
ly half the population, many of them still working
small leased plots.
Though this combination of European capi-
tal, Fijian land, and Indian labor did help pre-
serve traditional Fijian culture, it also kept the
Fijians backward— envious onlookers passed
over by European and (later) Indian prosperity.
The separate administration and special rights for
indigenous Fijians installed by the British over a
century ago continue today.
In early 1 875 Cakobau and two of his sons re-
turned from a visit to Australia infected with
measles. Though they themselves survived, the
resulting epidemic wiped out a third of the Fi-
jian population. As a response to this and other
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT 41
public health problems the Fiji School of Medicine
was founded in 1885. At the beginning of Euro-
pean colonization there were about 200.000 Fi-
jians, approximately 114,748 in 1881, and just
84,000 by 1921.
The Colonial Period
In 1912 a Gujerati lawyer, D.M. Manilal. arrived
in Fiji from Mauritius to fight for Indian rights,
just as his contemporary Mahatma Gandhi was
doing in South Africa. Several prominent Angli-
can and Methodist missionaries also lobbied ac-
tively against the system. Indentured Indians
continued to arrive in Fiji until 1916, but the
protests led to the termination of the indenture
system throughout the empire in 1920 (Manilal
was deported from Fiji after a strike that year).
Although Fiji was a political colony of Britain, it
was always an economic colony of Australia:
the big Australian trading companies Bums Philp
A SKELETON IN BRITAIN'S
NUCLEAR CLOSET
In 1957 and 1958 some 300 Fijian soldiers and
sailors were employed by the British during a hy-
drogen bomb testing program in the Line Islands,
presently Kiribati (between Hawaii and Tahiti).
Three particularly dirty atmospheric tests took
place off Maiden Island in May and June 1957,
and there were another six tests on Christmas Is-
land in November 1957 and September 1958.
The troops were exposed to significant levels of
health problems have been documented among
veterans. The most famous case involves Ratu
Penaia Ganilau, later knighted and made presi-
dent of Fiji, who landed barefoot on Maiden im-
mediately after a test in May 1957. Sir Penaia
died of leukemia in 1993 after a long illness.
Other Fijians were used to clear away thousands
of sea birds killed by the blasts, or to dump drums
of nuclear waste into the sea. Few protective
measures were taken, and there have been ac-
cusations that the troops were deliberately ex-
posed to radiation so they could be used as
guinea pigs. Litigation against the British gov-
ernment began in 1997. but to date no compen-
sation has been paid by the British to the Fijian
victims of their tests.
and W.R. Carpenters dominated business. (The
ubiquitous Morris Hedstrom is a subsidiary of
Carpenters.) Most of the Indians were brought to
Fiji to work for the Australian-owned Colonial
Sugar Refining Company, which controlled the
sugar industry from 1881 right up until 1973,
when it was purchased by the Fiji government for
$14 million. After 1935, Fiji's gold fields were
also exploited by Australians. Banking, insur-
ance, and tourism are largely controlled by Aus-
tralian companies today.
Under the British colonial system the Governor
of Fiji had far greater decision-making authority
than his counterparts in the French Pacific
colonies. Whereas the French administrators
were required to closely follow policies dictated
from Paris, the governors of the British colonies
had only to refer to the Colonial Office in London
on special matters such as finance and foreign
affairs. Otherwise they had great freedom to
make policy decisions.
No representative government existed in Fiji
until 1904, when a Legislative Council was
formed with six elected Europeans and two Fi-
jians nominated by the Great Council of Chiefs
(Bose Levu Vakaturaga), itself an instrument of
colonial rule. In 1916 the governor appointed
an Indian member to the council. A 1 929 reform
granted five seats to each of the three commu-
nities: three elected and two appointed Euro-
peans and Indians, and five nominated Fijians.
The council was only an advisory body and the
governor remained in complete control. The Eu-
ropeans generally sided with the Fijians against
any demands for equality from the Indians — typ-
ical colonial divide and rule.
During World War II Fijians were outstanding
combat troops on the Allied side in the Solomon
Islands campaign. In 1952-56 Fijians helped
suppress Malaya's national liberation struggle.
So skilled were the Fijians at jungle warfare
against the Japanese that it was never appro-
priate to list a Fijian as "missing in action" — the
phrase used was "not yet arrived." The war years
saw the development of Nadi Airport. Until 1952,
Suva, the present Fijian capital, was headquar-
ters for the entire British Imperial Administration
in the South Pacific.
In 1963 the Legislative Council was expanded
(though still divided along racial lines), and
women and indigenous Fijians got the vote for
Copyrighted material
42 INTRODUCTION
the first time. Wishing to be rid of the British,
whom they blamed for their second-class posi-
tion, the Indians pushed for independence, but
the Fijians had come to view the British as pro-
tectors and were somewhat reluctant. A Con-
stitutional Convention was held in London in
1965 to move Fiji toward self-government, and
after much discussion a constitution was adopt-
ed in 1970. Some legislature members were to
be elected from a common roll (voting by all
races), as the Indians desired, while other seats
remained ethnic (voting in racial constituencies)
to protect the Fijians. On October 10, 1970 Fiji
became a fully independent nation and the first
Fijian governor-general was appointed in 1 973 —
none other than Ratu Sir George Cakobau,
great-grandson of the chief who had ceded Fiji to
Queen Victoria 99 years previously.
SINCE INDEPENDENCE
Political Development
During the 1940s Ratu Sir Lala Sukuna. para-
mount chief of Lau, played a key role in the cre-
ation of a separate administration for indigenous
Fijians, with native land (83 percent of Fiji) under
its jurisdiction. In 1954 he formed the Fijian As-
sociation to support the British governor against
Indian demands for equal representation. In
1960 the National Federation Party (NFP) was
f /N^rvty-v/^ 4yv y/%nrAr/M^t In/Jinn s\ m-\ I >~s rrv\ s\ w/->
lormea to represent inaian cane larmers.
In 1966 the Alliance Party, a coalition of the Fi-
jian Association, the General Electors' Associa-
tion (representing Europeans. part-Fijians, and
Chinese), and the Fiji Indian Alliance (a minority
Indian group) won the legislative assembly elec-
tions. In 1970 Alliance Party leader Ratu Sir
Kamisese Mara led Fiji into independence and in
1972 his party won Fiji's first post-independence
elections. Ratu Mara served as prime minister al-
most continuously until the 1987 elections.
The formation of the Fiji Labor Party (FLP).
headed by Dr. Timoci Bavadra, in July 1985 dra-
matically altered the political landscape. Fiji's
previously nonpolitical trade unions had finally
come behind a party that campaigned on bread-
and-butter issues rather than race. Late in 1986
Labor and the NFP formed a coalition with the
aim of defeating the Alliance in the next elec-
tion. In the April 12, 1987 elections the Coali-
tion won 28 of 52 House of Representatives
seats; 1 9 of the 28 elected Coalition members
were Indo-Fijians. What swung the election away
from Alliance was not a change in Indo-Fijian
voting patterns but support for Labor from urban
Fijians and part-Fijians, which cost Alliance four
previously "safe" seats around Suva.
The Coalition cabinet had a majority of Indo-Fi-
jian members, but all positions of vital Fijian in-
terest (Lands, Fijian Affairs. Labor and Immi-
gration. Education, Agriculture and Rural De-
velopment) went to indigenous Fijian legislators,
though none of them was a traditional chief.
Coalition's progressive policies marked quite a
switch from the conservatism of the Alliance — a
new generation of political leadership dedicated
to tackling the day-to-day problems of people
of all races rather than perpetuating the privi-
leges of the old chiefly oligarchy. Given time,
the Coalition might have required the high chiefs
to share the rental monies they received for leas-
ing lands to Indo-Fijians more fairly with ordi-
nary Fijians. Most significant of all, the Coalition
would have transformed Fiji from a plural society
where only indigenous Melanesian Fijians were
called Fijians into a truly multiracial society where
all citizens would be Fijians.
The First Coup
After the election the extremist Fiji-for-Fijians
Taukei (landowners) movement launched a desta-
bilization campaign by throwing barricades across
highways, organizing protest rallies and marches,
and carrying out firebombings. On April 24, 1987
Senator Inoke Tabua and former Alliance cabinet
minister Apisai Tora organized a march of 5,000
Fijians through Suva to protest "Indian domination"
of the new government. Mr. Tora told a prepara-
tory meeting for the demonstration that Fijians
must "act now" to avoid ending up as "deprived as
Australia's aborigines." (In fact, under the 1970
constitution the Coalition government would have
had no way of changing Fiji's land laws without in-
digenous Fijian consent.)
At 1000 on Thursday. May 14, 1987 Lt. Col.
Sitiveni Rabuka (pronounced "ram-BU-ka"), an
ambitious officer whose career was stalled at
number three in the Fiji army, and 10 heavily
armed soldiers dressed in fatigues, their faces
covered by gas masks, entered the House of
Parliament in Suva. Rabuka ordered Dr. Bavadra
Copyrighted material
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT 43
and the Coalition members to follow a soldier
out of the building, and when Dr. Bavadra hesi-
tated the soldiers raised their guns. The legisla-
tors were loaded into army trucks and taken to
Royal Fiji Military Forces headquarters. There
was no bloodshed, though Rabuka later con-
firmed that his troops would have opened fire
had there been any resistance. At a press con-
ference five hours after the coup, Rabuka
claimed he had acted to prevent violence and
had no political ambitions of his own.
Australia and New Zealand promptly de-
nounced the region's first military coup. Gover-
nor-General Ratu Sir Penaia Ganilau attempted
to reverse the situation by declaring a state of
emergency and ordering the mutineers to re-
turn to their barracks. They refused to obey. The
next day Rabuka named a 1 5-member Council
of Ministers, which he chaired, to govern Fiji,
with former Alliance prime minister Ratu Mara as
foreign minister. Significantly. Rabuka was the
only military officer on the council; most of the
others were members of Ratu Mara's defeated
administration. Rabuka claimed he had acted
to "safeguard the Fijian land issue and the Fijian
way of life."
On May 19, Dr. Bavadra and the other kid-
napped members of his government were re-
leased after the governor-general announced a
deal negotiated with Rabuka to avoid the possi-
bility of foreign intervention. Rabuka's Council
of Ministers was replaced by a 19-member care-
taker Advisory Council appointed by the Great
Council of Chiefs. The council would govern until
new elections could take place. Ratu Ganilau
would head the council, with Rabuka in charge of
Home Affairs and the security forces. Only two
seats were offered to Dr. Bavadra's government,
and they were refused.
Behind the Coup
Immediately after the coup, rumors circulated
throughout the South Pacific that the U.S. gov-
ernment was involved. Labor leaders had an-
nounced that nuclear warships would be banned
from Fiji, and Foreign Minister Krishna Datt said he
planned to join Vanuatu and New Zealand in
pressing for a nuclear-free Pacific at the May 24,
1987, meeting of the South Pacific Forum. These
moves challenged the military hegemony the Unit-
ed States had enjoyed in the region since 1942.
Two weeks before the coup, General Vernon
A. Walters, U.S. ambassador to the United Na-
tions and a former CIA deputy director, visited
Fiji. At a long meeting with Foreign Minister Datt,
Walters tried to persuade the new government to
give up its antinuclear stance. Walters told the Fiji
press that the United States "has a duty to protect
its South Pacific interests." Walters may been
involved in previous coups in Iran (1953) and
Brazil (1964), and during his stay in Fiji he also
met with Rabuka and officials of the U.S. Agency
for International Development. A month after the
coup at a press conference at the National Press
Club in Washington, D.C., Dr. Bavadra publicly
accused the director of the South Pacific region-
al office of U.S. AID of channeling US$200,000 to
right-winger Apisai Tora of the Taukei movement
for destabilization purposes.
Yet direct U.S. involvement in the coup has
never been conclusively proven and the full story
may never be told. Rabuka himself has always
denied that the United States or any other foreign
elements were involved. The events caught the
Australian and New Zealand intelligence ser-
vices totally by surprise, indicating that few knew
of Rabuka's plans in advance.
Until the coup the most important mission of
the Royal Fiji Defense Force was service in
South Lebanon and the Sinai with peacekeeping
operations. Half of the 2,600-member Fiji army
was on rotating duty there, the Sinai force fi-
nanced by the United States, the troops in
Lebanon by the United Nations. During World
War II Indo-Fijians refused to join the army un-
less they received the same pay as European
recruits; indigenous Fijians had no such reser-
vations and the force has been 95 percent Fijian
ever since. Service in the strife-torn Middle East
gave the Fiji military a unique preparation for its
often political role in Fiji today. (Not many people
outside Fiji realize that, after Australia and New
Zealand, Lebanon is the foreign country most
familiar to indigenous Fijians.)
The mass media presented the coup in sim-
plistic terms as a racial conflict between Indo-Fi-
jians and Fijians, though commentators with a
deeper knowledge of the nature of power in Fiji
saw it quite differently. Anthony D. van Fossen of
Griffith University, Queensland, Australia,
summed it up this way in the Bulletin of Con-
cerned Asian Scholars (Vol. 19, No. 4, 1987):
Copyrighted material
44 INTRODUCTION
Although the first coup has been most often
seen in terms of ethnic tensions between in-
digenous Fijians and Indo-Fijians, it may be
more accurately seen as the result of tensions
between aristocratic indigenous Fijians and
their commoner allies defending feudalism,
on the one hand, and the cause of social
democracy, small-scale capitalism, and multi-
ethnic nationalism represented by middle-
class indigenous Fijian commoners and Hin-
dus on the other.
In their October 1987 issue, Pacific Islands
Monthly published this comment by noted author
Brij V. Lai of the Australia National University:
More than anything else, the coup was about
power. The emergence in an incipient form of
a class-minded multi-racial politics, symbolized
by the Labor Party and made possible by the
support of many urban Fijians, posed a grave
threat to the politics of race and racial com-
partmentalization preached by the Alliance
and thus had to be nipped in the bud. The as-
cent of Dr. Bavadra, a chief from the long-
neglected western Viti Levu, to die higliest office
in tlye land posed an unprecedented cfjallenge to
the traditiottal dominance ofeastertt chiefs, es-
pecially from Lau and Cakaudrove.
The comments above have appeared in sev-
eral editions of this book, and in early 1998 the
author received a letter from the noted Cook Is-
lands academic Dr. Ron Crocombe, who had
this to say in part:
/ am saddened to see one wlw slwuld be trying
to give visitors balanced views, loading them
witl) tlx biases of one side of a complex dispute.
You speak of 83 percent of the land being
owned by Fijians, but not that most of that is
useless mountains, remote outer islands, or
low fertility slopes, and that most of the top
quality part of what is good agricultural land
has been leased against the owners ' wishes in
many cases, to Indian farmers and business-
men at rates fixed by law which are far below
market value.
Labor as a "party that campaigned on
bread and butter rather than race 9 is Labor
ideology but not supported by facts. Labor
was very much an Indian dominated and
run party. Labor policy papers were prepared
with minor exceptions by Indian and other
n on- Fijian persons. Tim Bavadra was a gen-
tleman, but he always supported Alliance
until he fell out with them and was chosen
as the ideal front for an Indian dominated
party in a context where tlje public was not yet
ready for an Indian prime minister. Dr.
Bavadra did not dare to stand for the Fijian
every single Fijian who got in for the Coali-
tion, got in on Indian and other non-Fijian
votes through the cross-voting system of the
tinu. With a cabitwt held in place officially by
its caucus (which was about three Indians to
one Fijian) and unofficially by the people wlw
provided the money and put them in power
(almost totally Indian), it was indeed an In-
dian dominated cabinet, just as the f ormer
cabinets had been Fijian dominated
The popuLtr mythology put out by non-
indigenous ivriters about the coup being noth-
ing to do with race but about cLiss to protect
the chiefs is nonsense. Rabuka is from a low
class and he toppled his high chiefly com-
mander. He then neutralized the f)ead of state
who was his own personal high chief. The
leading religious man for the Fijian ethnic
union man was Dan
Veitata, a wharf laborer. The leading Fijian
academic Asesela Ravuvu is no chief of any
kind. Bavadra himself was a clan chief. No-
body seems to ask how the majority of Fijians
feel, and I can assure you it is different from
the vision portrayed. In your next edition do
make it clear that this is a complex situation
with many interest groups, and the basic issue
is ethnicity, Itowever unhappy tltat fact is time
politically correct days.
Copyrighted material
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT 45
The Second Coup
In July and August 1 987 a committee set up by
Governor-General Ganilau studied proposals
for constitutional reform, and on September 4,
talks began at Government House in Suva be-
tween Alliance and Coalition leaders under the
chairmanship of Ratu Ganilau. With no hope of a
consensus on a revised constitution, the talks
were aimed at preparing for new elections.
Then, on September 26, 1987, Rabuka struck
again, just hours before the governor-general
was to announce a government of national unity
to rule Fiji until new elections could be held.
The plan, arduously developed over four months
and finally approved by veteran political leaders
on all sides, would probably have resulted in
Rabuka being sacked. Rabuka quickly threw
out the 1 970 constitution and pronounced him-
self "head of state." Some 300 prominent com-
munity leaders were arrested and Ratu Ganilau
was confined to Government House. Newspa-
pers were shut down, trade unions repressed,
the judiciary suspended, the public service
purged, the activities of political opponents re-
stricted, a curfew imposed, and the first cases of
torture reported.
At midnight on October 7, 1987, Rabuka de-
clared Fiji a republic. Rabuka's new Council of
Ministers included Taukei extremists Apisai Tora
and Filipe Bole, Fijian Nationalist Party leader
Sakeasi Butadroka, and other marginal figures.
Rabuka appeared to have backing in the Great
Council of Chiefs, which wanted a return to the
style of customary rule threatened by the Indian
presence and Western democracy. Regime ide-
ologists trumpeted traditional culture and reli-
gious fundamentalism to justify their actions.
Nobody accused the United States of having
anything to do with Rabuka's second coup, and
even Ratu Mara seemed annoyed that Rabuka
had destroyed an opportunity to salvage the rep-
utations of himself and Ratu Ganilau. On October
16 Ratu Ganilau resigned as governor-general
and two days later Fiji was expelled from the
British Commonwealth.
The Republic of Rabuka
Realizing that Taukei/military rule was a recipe
for disaster, on December 5, 1987 Rabuka ap-
pointed Ratu Ganilau president and Ratu Mara
prime minister of the new republic. The 21 -mem-
ber cabinet included 10 members of Rabuka's
military regime, four of them army officers. Rabu-
ka himself (now a self-styled brigadier) was once
again Minister of Home Affairs. This interim gov-
ernment set itself a deadline of two years to
frame a new constitution and return Fiji to freely
elected representative government. By mid- 1988
the army had been expanded into a highly dis-
ciplined 6,000-member force loyal to Brigadier
Rabuka, who left no doubt he would intervene a
third time if his agenda was not followed. The
Great Council of Chiefs was to decide on Fiji's re-
publican constitution.
The coups transformed the Fijian economy. In
1987 Fiji experienced 1 1 percent negative growth
in the gross domestic product. To slow the flight
of capital the Fiji dollar was devalued 33 per-
cent in 1987, and inflation was up to nearly 12
percent by the end of 1988. At the same time civil
servants, who make up half the workforce, had to
accept a 25 percent wage cut as government
spending was slashed. Food pnces skyrocketed,
causing serious problems for many families. At
the end of 1987 the per capita average income
was 1 1 percent below what it had been in 1980.
Between 1986 and 1996 some 58,300 Indo-Fi-
jians left Fiji for Australia, Canada, New Zealand,
and the United States. Nearly three-quarters of
Fiji's administrators and managers, and a quar-
ter of all professional, technical, and clerical
workers departed taking tens of millions of dollars
with them, a crippling loss for a country with a
total population of under 750,000.
On the other hand, the devaluations and
wage-cutting measures, combined with the cre-
ation of a tax-free exporting sector and the en-
couragement of foreign investment, brought
about an economic recovery by 1990. At the ex-
pense of democracy, social justice, and racial
harmony, Fiji embarked on a standard IMF/World
Bank-style structural adjustment program. In
1992 the imposition of a 10 percent value-added
tax (VAT) shifted the burden of taxation from
rich to poor, standard IMF dogma. In effect,
Rabuka and the old oligarchs had pushed Fiji
squarely back into the third world.
In November 1 989 Dr. Bavadra died of spinal
cancer at age 55 and 60,000 people attended
his funeral at Viseisei, the largest in Fijian history.
Foreign journalists were prevented from covering
the funeral. The nominal head of the unelected in-
Copyrighted material
46 INTRODUCTION
terim government, Ratu Mara, considered Rabu-
ka an unpredictable upstart and insisted that he
choose between politics or military service. Thus
in late 1989, the general and two army colonels
were dropped from the cabinet, though Rabuka
kept his post as army commander.
On July 25, 1990 President Ganilau promul-
gated a new constitution approved by the Great
Council of Chiefs, which gave the chiefs the right
to appoint the president and 24 of the 34 mem-
bers of the Senate. The president had execu-
tive authority and appointed the prime minister
from among the ethnic Fijian members of the
House of Representatives. Under this constitu-
tion the 70-member House of Representatives
was elected directly, with voting racially segre-
gated. Ethnic Fijians were granted 37 seats from
constituencies gerrymandered to ensure the
dominance of the eastern chiefs. The constitution
explicitly reserved the posts of president, prime
minister, and army chief for ethnic Fijians. Chris-
tianity was made the official religion and
Rabuka's troops were granted amnesty for any
crimes committed during the 1987 coups. The
Coalition promptly rejected this supremacist con-
stitution as undemocratic and racist.
Not satisfied with control of the Senate, in
early 1991 the Great Council of Chiefs decided to
project their power into the lower house through
the formation of the Soqosoqo ni Vakavulewa
ni Taukei (SVT), commonly called the Fijian Po-
litical Party. Meanwhile Fiji's multiethnic unions
continued to rebuild their strength by organiz-
ing garment workers and leading strikes in the
mining and sugar industries.
In June 1991 Major-Gen. Rabuka rejected an
offer from Ratu Mara to join the cabinet as Min-
ister of Home Affairs and co-deputy prime min-
ister, since it would have meant giving up his
military power base. Instead Rabuka attempt-
ed to widen his political appeal by making public
statements in support of striking gold miners
and cane farmers, and even threatening a third
coup.
By now Rabuka's ambition to become prime
minister was obvious, and his new role as a pop-
ulist rabble-rouser seemed designed to outflank
both the Labor Party and the chiefs (Rabuka
himself is a commoner). President Ganilau
(Rabuka's paramount chief) quickly applied pres-
sure, and in July the volatile general reversed
himself and accepted the cabinet posts he had
so recently refused. As a condition for reentering
the government, Rabuka was forced to resign as
army commander and the president's son, Major-
Gen. Epeli Ganilau, was appointed his succes-
sor. With Rabuka out of the army everyone
breathed a little easier, and the chiefs decided to
co-opt a potential troublemaker by electing
Rabuka president of the SVT.
Return to Democracy
The long-awaited parliamentary elections took
place in late May 1992, and the SVT captured 30
of the 37 indigenous Fijian seats. Another five
went to Fijian nationalists, while the 27 Indian
seats were split between the NFP with 14 and
the FLP with 1 3. The five other races' seats went
to the General Voters Party (GVP).
Just prior to the election, Ratu Mara retired
from party politics and was named vice-presi-
dent of Fiji by the Great Council of Chiefs. An in-
tense power struggle then developed in the SVT
between Ratu Mara's chosen successor as
prime minister, former finance minister Joseva-
ta Kamikamica, and ex-general Rabuka. Since
the SVT lacked a clear majority in the 70-seat
house, coalition partners had to be sought, and
in a remarkable turn of events populist Rabuka
gained the support of the FLP by offering con-
cessions to the trade unions and a promise to re-
view the constitution and land leases. There-
fore Rabuka became prime minister thanks to the
very party he had ousted from power at gun-
point exactly five years earlier!
The SVT formed a coalition with the GVP.
but in November 1993 the Rabuka government
was defeated in a parliamentary vote of no con-
fidence over the budget, leading to fresh elec-
tions in February 1994. In these, Rabuka's SVT
increased its representation to 31 seats. Many
Indo-Fijians had felt betrayed by FLP backing
of Rabuka's prime ministership in 1992, and
FLP representation dropped to seven seats,
compared to 20 for the NFP.
Ratu Ganilau died of leukemia in December
1993, and Ratu Mara was sworn in as president
in January 1994. Meanwhile, Rabuka cultivat-
ed a pragmatic image to facilitate his interna-
tional acceptance in the South Pacific, and with-
in Fiji itself he demonstrated his political prowess
by holding out a hand of reconciliation to the
Copyrighted material
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT 47
Indo-Fijian community. The 1990 constitution
had called for a constitutional review before
1997, and in 1995 a three-member commission
was appointed, led by Sir Paul Reeves, a for-
mer governor-general of New Zealand, together
with Mr. Tomasi Vakatora representing the Rabu-
ka government and Mr. Brij Lai for the opposition.
The report of the commission titled Towards a
United Future was submitted in September 1 996.
It recommended a return to the voting system
outlined in the 1970 constitution with some mem-
bers of parliament elected from racially divided
communal constituencies and others from open
ridings on a common roll of racially mixed elec-
torates. The commissioners suggested that the
post of prime minister no longer be explicitly re-
served for an indigenous Fijian but simply for
the leader of the largest grouping in parliament of
whatever race.
The report was passed to a parliamentary
committee for study, and in May 1997 all sides
agreed to a power-sharing formula to resolve
Fiji's constitutional impasse. The number of guar-
anteed seats for indigenous Fijians in the lower
house was reduced from 37 to 23. and voting
across racial lines was instituted in another third
of the seats. The prime minister was to be re-
quired to form a cabinet comprised of ministers
from all parties in proportion to their representa-
tion in parliament — a form of power sharing
unique in modern democracy. Nearly half the
members of the senate and the country's presi-
dent would continue to be appointed by the Great
Council of Chiefs. Human rights guarantees
were included. The Constitution Amendment Bill
passed both houses of parliament unanimously,
and was promulgated into law by President Mara
on July 25, 1997. In recognition of the rare na-
tional consensus that had been achieved. Fiji
was welcomed back into the British Common-
wealth in October 1 997. The new constitution
formally took effect in July 1 998.
For many years it was unfashionable to look
upon Fiji as a part of Melanesia, and the na-
tion's Polynesian links were emphasized. The
1987 coups had a lot to do with rivalry between
the eastward-looking chiefs of Bau and Lau and
the Melanesian-leaning western Fijians. Ironi-
cally, some of the political friction between the
dark-skinned commoner Rabuka and the tall
aristocrat Ratu Mara can also be seen in this
light. The latter was always networking among Fi-
ji's smaller Polynesian neighbors, and it was
only in 1996 that Rabuka brought Fiji into the
Melanesian Spearhead grouping that had ex-
isted since 1988. Of course, the pragmatist
Rabuka was merely acknowledging the vastly
greater economic potential of Melanesia, but he
was clearly much more comfortable socializing
with the other Melanesian leaders at regional
summits than Ratu Mara ever could have been.
People's Coalition Government
In May 1999 Fiji's 419,000 eligible voters partic-
ipated in the first election under the 1997 consti-
tution. The IMF-style structural adjustment pro-
gram of the previous government and a strong
desire for change were key issues, and although
Rabuka himself was elected, his SVT Party took
only eight of the 71 parliamentary seats. The
NFP allied with Rabuka was wiped out entirely by
the Labor Party, which won all 19 Indo-Fijian
seats, plus 18 of the 25 common roll seats elect-
ed by all voters. Two indigenous Fijian parties, the
Fijian Alliance and the Party of National Unity,
won a total of 14 seats. They also formed an al-
liance with Labor's 37 members to give "Peo-
ple's Coalition" an overwhelming 51 seats.
Among the seven women elected to parlia-
ment were Adi Kuini Vuikaba Speed, widow of
former prime minister Timoci Bavadra, and Adi
Koila Mara Nailatikau, daughter of President
Mara. Labor leader Mahendra Chaudhry was
appointed prime minister— the first Indo-Fijian
ever to occupy the post. Two-thirds of Chaudhry 's
cabinet were indigenous Fijians. but it was quite
different from the two previous governments,
which had included no Indo-Fijians. Rabuka re-
signed from parliament soon after the election
and was made chairman of the Great Council of
Chiefs. His departure contributed to a feeling
among grassroots Fijians that the Indians had
taken over. If Dr. Tupeni Baba, Labor's second-
in-command and an indigenous Fijian, had be-
come prime minister, the situation would have
been different, but Chaudhry's struggle had been
long and his victory was so complete that he in-
sisted on getting the top job. Baba became
deputy prime minister. NFP leader Jai Ram
Reddy issued a portentous warning at the time:
"Fiji is not yet ready for an Indian prime minister."
Fiji's first democratic government in a dozen
Copyrighted material
48 INTRODUCTION
years survived 365 days. Chaudhry vigorously
pushed forward his reforms and applied the
brakes to privatization, which won him few
friends, and his relations with business and the
media were antagonistic. In February 2000, the
government introduced a leadership honesty
code" bill which would have required politicians to
disclose their personal assets in private to the
Ombudsman's office. Corruption had been rife
during the Rabuka years, culminating in the col-
lapse of the National Bank of Fiji in 1995 after
F$295 million had been siphoned off by politi-
cians and Fijian chiefs through bad loans and
other devices. Mismanagement and cronyism
had led to huge losses by the Fiji Development
Bank and provincial councils, and kickbacks were
routine at Customs & Excise and other govern-
ment departments. The Chaudhry government's
anti-corruption drive was a blast of fresh air.
Reducing poverty was a high priority for the
Chaudhry team. People's Coalition attempted
to help Fijian villagers through affirmative ac-
tion programs. The value added tax and cus-
toms duty on basic food items were lowered,
utility rates were slashed, and loans were made
available for small business.
People's Coalition also bucked the trend to-
ward "globalization" and lobbied hard for fairer
terms of trade. In recognition, Fiji was selected as
the venue for the signing of what would have
been the Suva Convention, a 20-year successor
to Lome Agreement governing trade between
77 African, Caribbean, and Pacific (ACP) na-
tions and the 15 European Union states. Dozens
of ministers and high officials from these coun-
tries were scheduled to be in Suva on June 8,
2000. for the launch of this historic partnership
agreement, but it was not to be.
After the May 1999 election, leaders of the
defeated SVT party began working on strate-
gies to bring down the People's Coalition gov-
ernment and return to power. In April 2000, the
ultra-nationalist Taukei Movement was revived
by Apisai Tora, a fringe politician deeply involved
in the 1987 coups. Taukei's declared aim was to
revise the 1997 constitution to ensure Fijian po-
litical supremacy. The SVT supported Taukei,
as did some provincial administrations, but the
Fiji army declared that it would not be drawn
into any attempt to overthrow the government.
Taukei agitators tried to make the future of Indo-
Fijian land leases an issue, and demonstrations
began in Lautoka and Suva.
The Fiji Crisis
On May 19, 2000 a Taukei protest march wound
down Victoria Parade in central Suva. When the
thousands of marchers reached the gates of the
Presidential Palace, they were told that gunmen
had stormed Fiji's parliament, which had been in
session, and had taken its members hostage.
Many of the marchers rushed to the building,
joining terrorists who were only too happy to
have willing human shields. In central Suva
gangs of thugs and protesters responded to
news of the takeover by looting and burning In-
dian shops. Around 160 shops were emptied or
destroyed in the three hours before the police
began making arrests.
The initial assault on parliament was led by a
failed businessman named George Speight,
along with seven renegade members of the
army's elite Counter Revolutionary Warfare Unit
(also known as the First Meridian Squadron)
and 35 ex-soldiers, half of them ex-convicts.
The highest ranking soldier present was retired
major llisoni Ligairi, a former British Special Air
Services warrant officer who had set up the
CRW anti-terrorist unit in 1987. Speight had ap-
peared in the Suva High Court on extortion
charges five days before the coup, yet he de-
clared he was acting to defend indigenous Fijian
rights. In 1997 Speight had been forced to flee
Australia after a pyramid scheme he had a hand
in collapsed with A$130 million in losses for
gullible investors.
Yet to understand what was really happening,
we have to back up a bit. In early 1 999 a bitter
struggle was being waged in government circles
over who would gain the right to market Fiji's valu-
able mahogany forests worldwide. The Rabuka
government was known to favor a U.S. company
called Timber Resources Management, while the
incoming Chaudhry government announced they
intended to give the contract to the British-based
Commonwealth Development Corporation on the
basis of a recommendation from the Australian
accountancy firm Pricewaterhouse Coopers.
Speight had previously worked as a consultant
for the Americans, and in June 1 999 Chaudhry's
Forestry Minister removed him from his position as
managing director of the state-owned Fiji Hard-
Copyrighted material
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT 49
wood Corporation and Fiji Pine Limited because
Speight had been a political appointee of the for-
mer regime. Chaudhry's surprise election in May
1999 had cost Speight and associates the chance
to control the exploitation mahogany and pine
tracts worth hundreds of millions of dollars. Just
prior to his assault on parliament Speight had
been trying to foment unrest among landowners by
spreading disinformation about the rival bids and
the Chaudhry government's intentions. Important
figures in the previous Rabuka government were
involved in the ongoing mahogany affair, including
Rabuka's Minister of Finance and former Speight
patron Jim Ah Koy. Speight's coup attempt may
have had more to do with timber rights than in-
digenous rights. (No evidence of any involvement
in the coup by foreign timber companies has
emerged and none is implied here.)
Among the 45 persons taken hostage by
Speight's gang were Prime Minister Chaudhry,
and the minister of tourism and transport, Presi-
dent Mara's daughter. Ratu Mara immediately
declared a state of emergency, and the Fiji Military
Forces commander, Commodore Voreqe Baini-
marama, ordered his men to surround the par-
liamentary compound. Unlike the situation dur-
ing the 1987 coups, the army's high command
and the bulk of its troops did not support the coup
attempt. Bainimarama declined to use force to
free the captives for fear of triggering a blood-
bath, and many of the hostages were to spend the
next 56 days sitting on mattresses with their lives
in the hands of heavily armed goons.
On May 27, 80-year-old President Mara offi-
cially dismissed the elected Chaudhry govern-
ment after Speight threatened to kill his daughter.
The next day a mob of Speight supporters ran-
sacked the offices of Fiji TV to protest coverage
critical of the coup. Soon after a Fijian police-
man was shot dead by gunmen near the par-
liament. On May 29, with the situation deterio-
rating, the army asked President Mara to "step
aside" while it restored order. Mara thereupon
withdrew to his power base on remote Lakeba in
the Lau Group, the ignominious end of a long
and distinguished career. That day Commodore
Bainimarama declared martial law, abrogated
the 1997 constitution, and assumed executive
authority. Bainimarama ruled out any return to
power by Chaudhry.
Meanwhile Speight was continually making
fresh demands as the negotiations continued.
A struggle for power was underway among the
Fijian elite. The Great Council of Chiefs wanted
to appoint the vice president, Ratu Josefa lloilo,
to replace Mara, and Speight insisted that Ratu
Jope Seniloli, a retired school teacher with close
ties to the chiefly Cakobau family but no previous
political standing, must become vice president.
Since the death of Ratu Sir George Cakobau in
1 989, the once powerful Cakobaus of eastern Viti
Levu had been eclipsed by their historic "Tongan"
enemies from Lau, led by Ratu Sir Kamisese
Mara. Seven weeks into the crisis Speight moved
to have persons with Cakobau connections
granted high positions in an interim administra-
naterial
50 INTRODUCTION
tion. His choice for prime minister was Adi Sama-
nunu Cakobau, Fiji's high commissioner in
Malaysia and Sir George's eldest daughter.
That was the signal for Bainimarama, a long-
time Mara ally, to order his army to tighten the
noose around Speight by declaring parliament
and nearby streets a "military exclusion zone."
The next day (July 3) the Great Council of Chiefs
named a civilian cabinet led by the former head
of the Fiji Development Bank, Laisenia Qarase,
another Mara man. This interim government had
tne army s Diessmg, ana to win acceptance irom
the international community, high-profile Speight
elements were shut out. These developments
triggered widespread disturbances by grass-
roots Speight supporters throughout the country,
including the occupation of tourist resorts, the
blocking of highways, and the burning of the his-
toric Masonic Lodge in Levuka. There was in-
timidation of Indo-Fijians living in rural areas of
northeastern Viti Levu and central Vanua Levu,
traditional Cakobau strongholds, with arson, loot-
ing, and ethnic cleansing. The military was un-
able to cope.
Visibly shaken, on July 9 Bainimarama agreed
to an amnesty for Speight and the others on the
condition that they free the 27 remaining
hostages and surrender all arms. The Qarase in-
terim government would be replaced, and lloilo
and Seniloli would become president and vice
president. On July 1 3 the hostage crisis came to
a peaceful end at a kava ceremony when
Chaudhry magnanimously said that he held no
personal animosity against Speight, though the
army noted that not all of the missing weapons
were turned in. Upon his release Chaudhry con-
firmed that he had been beaten by Speight's
thugs early in the hostage crisis.
It's said that only the threat of a military coup
from Bainimarama prevented President lloilo.
who was seen as overly sympathetic to Speight's
cause, from accepting Adi Samanunu as prime
minister. Former prime minister Rabuka (who
remained on the sidelines during most of the
crisis) remarked that Speight was only a pup-
pet, brought in at the last minute by persons un-
known. After the hostage crisis ended President
lloilo promised a thorough investigation to un-
mask the players behind the scenes, but nothing
much has come of it.
Speight is only part-Fijian and the Taukei ex-
tremists represent a small minority of opinion in
Fiji. By their reckless acts they have pushed Fiji
back at least a decade politically, socially, and
economically, and have done grave damage to
human rights and the respect for the rule of law.
The concerns of indigenous Fijians to protect
their lands and culture were and are legitimate, but
those interests have been enshrined in all three of
Fiji's constitutions and no government would have
been able to negate them. As previously in re-
cent Fijian history, the race issue has been ma-
nipulated by defeated politicians and power hun-
gry individuals, and rural villagers and marginal-
ized urban Fijians proved effective tools in the
hands of rabble rouser George Speight.
Interim Government
After the hostages were freed, Qarase simply
stayed on as prime minister. In late July he ap-
pointed a cabinet consisting mostly of civil ser-
vants and opposition politicians, without any
overt Speight insiders. Qarase announced that
his military-backed regime would last 18
months, to give time for a new constitution to be
drawn up and fresh elections arranged. How-
ever, during the week of July 17, Australia,
Britain, and New Zealand announced sanctions
against Fiji because the elected government
had not been restored.
Speight's agitating continued with Qarase
now the target of choice. On July 27 Speight
was arrested at an army checkpoint between
Suva and Nausori, and the next day the army
rounded up 369 of his commoner followers in a
forceful manner. Speight and cohorts were
charged with carrying arms in contravention of
the amnesty deal, and a week later the charge of
treason was added. Speight and a dozen key
figures in the coup attempt were sent to await trial
on tiny Nukulau Island, a former picnic spot off
Suva. In protest, pro-Speight soldiers kidnaped
50 Indo-Fijians at Labasa, but released them
quickly when the army threatened to intervene.
in bepiemDer tne intenm government set up a
12-member commission to review the 1997 con-
stitution. Asesela Ravuvu, an academic with a
long history of advocating hardline indigenous Fi-
jian positions, was appointed chairman, and
among the other members were three Speight
Copyrighted material
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT 51
supporters. Most Indo-Fijians boycotted the
process. The outcome was pending at press
time, but it's widely felt that even if a Fijian su-
premacist constitution is imposed by force, it will
serve only to isolate Fiji even further, just as
Rabuka's racist constitution of 1 990 was not
widely accepted.
On the afternoon of November 2, 2000. what
some saw as the final act in this tragedy unfold-
ed at Suva's Queen Elizabeth Barracks, as 39
soldiers from the Counter Revolutionary War-
fare Unit staged a surprise raid on army head-
quarters in an attempt to capture Commodore
Bainimarama and seize control of Fiji for Speight.
Loyal officers helped Bainimarama escape down
a gully, and just before dusk the Third Fiji In-
fantry Regiment launched a fierce counter at-
tack. Five rebels and three government soldiers
died in the attempted mutiny, including several
rebels who were beaten to death by army troops
after being captured. Two dozen soldiers and
civilians were wounded, and the army quickly
rounded up the remaining mutineers. The na-
tion was shocked by this unprecedented brutal-
ity. The plot thickened when it was revealed that
ex-general Rabuka had been present at the bar-
racks during the mutiny. Rabuka claimed he had
gone there to mediate, but Bainimarama ordered
him not to re-enter the facility.
After their release, a number of lawsuits were
filed before the Fiji High Court claiming that the
change in government was unconstitutional. On
November 15, 2000. Chief Justice Anthony
Gates issued a ruling in response to a plea
brought by an ordinary Indo-Fijian farmer, Chan-
drika Prasad, who claimed that his constitution-
al rights had been violated by the coup. Gates
agreed and declared the Speight coup null and
void, the interim government illegal, and the
1997 constitution still the law of the land. Gates
ruled that Ratu Mara was still the legal presi-
dent of Fiji and that he had a duty to appoint a
new prime minister from among the parliamen-
tarians elected in 1999. Gates suggested that
the interim government resign and allow the for-
mation of a government of national unity com-
prised of elected members of parliament. That
would get Fiji back on track.
A shocked Interim Prime Minister Qarase re-
ferred the case to the Fiji Court of Appeal, which
upheld Chief Justice Gates' ruling in a historic de-
cision on March 1 , 2001 . Qarase and lloilo both
announced that the court's decision would be
respected. Then began some complicated ma-
neuvering in an attempt to give the interim gov-
ernment the facade of legality. The 50-member
Great Council of Chiefs was convened at army
headquarters in Suva, and they reappointed lloi-
lo and Seniloli to the presidency and vice-presi-
dency. Fiji's top judges had suggested that the
president recall parliament, and 40 of the 71
parliamentarians deposed by George Speight
signed a petition asking that this be done. Yet
President lloilo dismissed Chaudhry and ap-
pointed his own nephew, Ratu Tevita Momoe-
donu, as prime minister. Momoedonu resigned
the next day and advised the president to for-
mally dissolve parliament, which he did. This al-
lowed lloilo to reappoint Qarase as "caretaker"
prime minister until elections could be held.
Qarase quickly brought back his old 30-minister
cabinet, and the unelected government that the
judges had declared illegal just two weeks before
was back in business.
As this book goes to press Fiji's fate is still un-
decided, and moves to illegally revise the 1997
constitution continue. Under the current voting
system, the Labor Party could easily be voted
back into power, something the corrupt politicians
and chiefs backing Qarase greatly fear. Ratu
Mara is Qarase's customary chief, and it's be-
lieved the old leader is still pulling the strings from
faraway Lau. Within the Labor Party, a leader-
ship struggle is underway between Mahendra
Chaudhry and his deputy Dr. Tupeni Baba. Pres-
ident lloilo is ailing, and Speight-appointed Vice
President Seniloli is unlikely to be accepted by
many players as his successor. The struggle be-
tween tradition and modernity in Fiji is far from
over— watch this space for future developments.
As could be expected, the Fiji Crisis had a
disastrous impact on the economy. After posi-
tive growth of 7.8 percent in 1999, there was
eight percent negative growth in 2000. By the
end of 2000, over 7,400 people had lost their
jobs. Tourist arrivals for the three months fol-
lowing the coup were only 37,126 compared
to 120,156 for the same period in 1999, and
the industry was losing US$1 million a day. A
US$100 million Hilton Hotel project for Nadi
was put on hold, and other major resorts at
Natadola Beach and elsewhere were canceled.
Copyrighted material
52 INTRODUCTION
The crisis has widened the gap between the
haves and have nots in Fiji, and it will be at
least a decade before the country recovers, as-
suming that all goes well.
New Zealand journalist Michael Field, who
was in Fiji throughout the crisis, summed it up
thus:
I found it more personal than any other story
I've ever covered. People who had long ago
stopped just being contacts and stories, but
were friends to cherish and love, were hurting
so much during those three months. The pain
of knowing this was not a pain worth much at
all comoared to those who were seeinp lives
and dreams disappear in some indigenous
nightmare. In one of the more telling mo-
had a procedure for reconciliation. Like other
Polynesian adtures the business of saying sorry
is deeply ingrained and much honored What
he did not say was who was
gize to who. And for what.
GOVERNMENT
The 1997 constitution provides for a parliamen-
tary system of government with a 71 -seat House
of Representatives or "lower house" consisting of
46 members from communal ridings and 25 from
multiracial ridings with elections every five years.
Twenty-three communal seats are reserved for
indigenous Fijians, 19 for Indo-Fijians, three for
general electors (part-Fijians, Europeans, Chi-
nese, etc.), and one for Rotumans. The leader of
the largest party or coalition of parties in parlia-
ment is the head of government or prime minis-
ter. Parties with over eight elected members
have the right to be represented in the cabinet
and each of Fiji's 20 government ministries is
run by a cabinet member. Voting is compulsory
(F$20 fine for failing to vote).
The 32-member "upper house" or Senate has
14 members appointed by the Great Council of
FIJI: POLITICAL
DIVISIONS
NORTHERN DIVISION
(3™ -
\ S\ Qamca
/ / »
V
I \M Ov.Uu
ii J " C OVu\idawa/ ^
EASTERN DIVISION
0 Q
Nausori •
/ sf.riia r ,.Navua w c.,,„ •
avua -Suva
CENTRAL
DIVISION
50 mi
. -i
1
Copyrighted material
HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT 53
FIJI IN A COCONUT SHELL
DIVISION/
AREA
POPULATION
PERCENT
PROVINCE
HEADQUARTERS
(square km)
(1996)
FIJIAN
CENTRAL
DIVISION
SUVA
4,293
297,255
59.5
— « -<
Naitasin
Vunidawa
1 ,666
126.441
56.1
Namosi
Navua
570
5.893
91.4
Rewa
Nabalili
272
101.193
58.6
Serua
Navua
830
15,495
55.1
Tailevu
Nausori
955
48.233
67.7
WESTERN
DIVISION
■ A ■ IT/M/ A
LAUTOKA
6/360
295,891
39.4
Ba
Lautoka
2,634
211.080
33.2
Nadroga
Sigatoka
2,385
54.049
52.5
Ra
Nanukuloa
1,341
30.762
59.4
NORTHERN
DIVISION
LAB ASA
6,198
138,754
46.9
Macuata
Labasa
2,004
80.151
28.2
Bua
Nabouwalu
1,378
14.977
73.6
Cakaudrove
Savusavu
2,816
43.626
72.0
EASTERN
DIVISION
LEVUKA
1,422
40,755
89.4
Kadavu
Vunisea
478
9.539
99.2
Lau
Lakeba
487
12.203
98.6
Lomaiviti
Levuka
411
16.203
91.2
Rotuma
Ahau
46
2.810
5.8
TOTAL FIJI
SUVA
18,272
772,655
51.1
Chiefs, nine by the prime minister, eight by the
leader of the opposition, and one by the Council
of Rotuma. Any legislation affecting the rights of
indigenous Fijians must be approved by at least
nine of the 14 senators appointed by the chiefs.
The Great Council of Chiefs also chooses Fi-
ji's head of state, the president, for a five-year
term. The three traditional Fijian confederacies
are Burebasaga, Kubuna, and Tovata.
Aside from the national government, there's
a well-developed system of local government.
On the Fijian side, the basic unit is the village
(koro) represented by a village herald (turaga-
ni-koro), who is chosen by consensus. The
1 ,169 villages and 483 settlements are grouped
into 1 89 districts (tikina), the districts into 1 4
provinces (yasana). The executive head of each
provincial council is the roko tui, appointed by
the Fijian Affairs Board.
The national administration is broken down
into four divisions (central, eastern, northern,
and western), each headed by a commissioner.
These civil servants and the 19 district officers
work for the Ministry of Regional Development
and Multi-Ethnic Affairs. The Micronesians of
Rabi and Polynesians of Rotuma govern them-
selves through island councils of their own. Ten
city and town councils also function.
Fiji has a High Court, a Fiji Court of Appeal,
and a Supreme Court. The chief justice and
eight other judges are appointed by the presi-
dent after consulting the prime minister. With
the collapse of parliament and a change of pres-
ident in the wake of the Speight coup, the
Supreme Court emerged as the last bastion of
legality in Fiji's national system of government.
Criminal and civil cases of lesser importance
are handled in magistrates courts.
Copyrighted material
54 INTRODUCTION
ECONOMY
Fiji has a diversified economy based on tourism,
garment manufacturing, sugar production, gold
mining, timber, commercial fishing, kava. and
coconut products. Although eastern Viti Levu
and the Lau Group have long dominated the
country politically, western Viti Levu remains Fi-
ji's economic powerhouse, with sugar, tourism,
timber, and gold mining all concentrated there.
Aside from the cash economy, subsistence
agriculture is important to indigenous Fijians in
rural areas, where manioc, taro, yams, sweet
potato, and corn are the principal subsistence
crops.
Sugar
Sugar accounts for about 35 percent of Fiji's
gross domestic product. Almost all of the cane is
grown by small independent Indo-Fijian farm-
ers on contract to the government-owned Fiji
Sugar Corporation. Some 20,000 farmers culti-
vate cane on holdings averaging 4.5 hectares
leased from indigenous Fijians. The corporation
owns 595 km of 0.610-meter narrow-gauge rail-
way, which it uses to carry the cane to the mills at
Lautoka, Ba. Rakiraki, and Labasa. A shift away
from carrying cane by rail in favor of truck trans-
port is hurting farmers by increasing costs. Fiji's
four aaina and inefficient suaar mills are in uraent
need of modernization.
Nearly half a million metric tonnes of sugar
are exported annually to Britain. Malaysia, Japan,
and other countries, providing direct employ-
ment for 35,000 people. Workers cutting cane
earn FS8 a day and two meals. A distillery at
Lautoka produces rum and other liquors from
the by-products of sugar. Some 1 76,000 met-
ric tons of Fijian sugar are sold to the European
Union each year at fixed rates three or four
above world market levels thanks to import
quotas set forth in the Cotonou Agreement.
The EU uses this successor to the Lome Con-
vention as a way of providing aid to 77 former
colonies in Africa, the Caribbean, and the Pa-
cific. Without these subsidies (worth FS80-90
million a year), Fiji's sugar industry would col-
lapse. Although the F$200 million Fiji earns
from sugar is far less than it makes from
tourism, far more Fijians depend on this indus-
try for their livelihood than rely on tourism.
Rice and Copra
Fiji now grows almost half the rice it needs and is
trying to become self-sufficient. Much of the rice
is grown around Nausori and Navua, and on
Vanua Levu. Most of Fiji's copra is produced in
Lau, Lomaiviti, Taveuni, and Vanua Levu, half by
European or part-Fijian planters and the rest by
indigenous Fijian villagers. Copra production
has slipped from 40,000 tons a year in the 1 950s
to about 10,000 tons today due to the low prices
paid to producers.
Kava and Water
Kava is the fastest growing agricultural crop, and
in 1 998 FS35 million worth of the root was ex-
ported to Germany, the United States, and other
countries where they are used by pharmaceutical
firms to make antidepressants and muscle-re-
laxers. Large European, American, and Japanese
corporations have filed multiple patents in an at-
tempt to monopolize the many uses of the plant.
It is believed that kava could eventually over-
take sugar as a moneymaker unless new plan-
HOW A SUGAR MILL WORKS
The sugarcane is fed through a shredder toward
a row of huge rollers that squeeze out the juice.
The crushed fiber (bagasse) is burned to fuel
the mill or is processed into paper. Lime is then
added to the juice and the mixture is heated. Im-
purities settle in the clarifier and mill mud is filtered
out to be used as fertilizer. The clear juice goes
through a series of evaporators, in which it is
boiled into steam under partial vacuum to re-
move water and create a syrup. The syrup is
boiled again under greater pressure in a vacuum
pan, and raw sugar crystals form. The mix then
enters a centrifuge, which spins off the remaining
syrup (molasses— used for distilling or cattle
feed). The moist crystals are sent on to a rotating
drum, where they are tumble-dried using hot air.
Raw sugar comes out in the end.
Copyrighted material
ECONOMY 55
tations in Hawaii. Australia, and Mexico steal the
market.
Another miracle export is natural artesian
water drawn from a well at Yaqara on north-
western Viti Levu and bottled in a modern plant
owned by David Gilmour of Wakaya Island fame.
Gilmour gave the indigenous landowners of the
watershed a 25 percent interest in his company,
making them the richest clan in Fiji as sales of Fiji
Water in the United States are booming.
of foreign logging companies and shortsighted
local landowners, and each year large tracts of
pristine rainforest are lost. Now that all of the
lowland forests have been cleared, attention is
turning to the highlands. The pine and mahogany
projects have had the corollary benefit of re-
ducing pressure on the natural forests to supply
Fiji's timber needs.
5
6
2
I
7
6
Timber
Timber is increasingly important as 40,730
hectares of softwood planted in western Viti Levu
and Vanua Levu by Fiji Pine and private landown-
ers in the late 1 970s reach maturity. Pro
cessing facilities for the 16,000
hectares of pine on Vanua Levu are
inadequate and round logs must
be transported to Viti Levu by
truck and ferry at great ex-
pense. Milling and marketing
is done by Tropik Timber, a
Fiji Pine subsidiary.
In addition to softwood,
around 30,000 hectares of
hardwood (74 percent of it
mahogany) planted in south-
eastern Viti Levu after 1952
by the British is almost ready
for harvesting (another
20,000 hectares in central
Vanua Levu will be mature in a
decade). With buyers in Europe
and elsewhere increasingly averse
to natural rainforest timber, Fiji is in
the enviable position of possessing the
largest "green" mahogany forest Taro which grows man/elously
in the world. The government-
controlled Fiji Hardwood Corpo-
ration was set up in 1997 to man-
age this asset, which has been
valued as high as FS510 million.
Fiji already exports about F$50
Fishing
Commercial fishing is important, with a govern-
ment-subsidized tuna cannery at Levuka sup-
plied in part by Fiji's own fleet of 1 7 longline ves-
sels. The 15.000 metric tons of canned skipjack
and albacore tuna produced each year comprise
Fiji's fifth-largest export, shipped mostly to
Britain, Canada, and the United States
(see Ovalau for more information).
In addition, 3,000 tons of chilled
yellowf in tuna is flown to Hawaii
and Japan to serve the Sashi-
mi (raw fish) market.
well in the nch soils of Fiji's bush
gardens, is one of the staples of
the Pacific and ensures a steady
supply of nourishing food for the
villagers.
Mining
Mining activity centers on
gold from the Emperor Gold
Mine at Vatukoula on north-
em Viti Levu. Elsewhere on
Viti Levu, Emperor controls
a rich gold deposit at Tu-
vatu, unfortunately inside the
Nadi water catchment area
and thus an environmental
threat. In 1998 the Mount Kasi
gold mine on Vanua Levu closed
due to low world prices, and the de-
velopment of other gold fields has been
frozen. In 1998 gold exports
were worth FS70.5 million.
Since 1 984 Placer Pacific has
spent US$10 million exploring
the extensive low-grade copper
deposits at Namosi, 30 km
northwest of Suva, but in 1997,
million a year in sawed lumber and wood chips despite offers of near tax-free status from the
(the export of raw logs was banned in 1987). A government, the company put the USS1 billion
factory between Nadi and Sigatoka uses senile project on hold saying it was not economical,
coconut trees to make quality furniture, flooring,
and panels. Garment Industry
Yet outside the managed plantations Fiji's na- Garments are now Fiji's largest export and are
five forests are poorly protected from the greed produced by 100 companies that export their
56 INTRODUCTION
clothes mainly to Australia and New Zealand.
The South Pacific Regional Trade and Economic
Cooperation Agreement (SPARTECA) allows
Fijian products with at least 50 percent local
content partial duty- and quota-free entry into
those countries. Some foreign manufacturers
have moved their factories to Fiji to take advan-
tage of the low labor costs. SPARTECA rules
prevent local manufacturers from importing qual-
ity fabrics from outside the region, limiting them
to the bottom end of the market. The value of
SPARTECA is gradually eroding and a new
agreement 10 replace it is unoer negotiation.
The garment industry employs 16,000 peo-
ple, with female workers earning an average of
F$60 a week. At peak periods the factories op-
erate three shifts, seven days a week. Women
working in the industry have complained of body
searches and sexual harassment; those who
protest or organize industrial action are often
fired and blacklisted. About 1,000 recently ar-
rived Asian workers are also employed in the
factories. In 1998 Fiji exported garments worth
F$302 million.
Other Manufacturing
Companies that process food or make furniture,
toys, or shoes are also prominent in the tax-free
exporting sector. Until recently it was believed
that manufacturing would eventually overtake
both sugar and tourism as the main source of in-
come for the country, but the globalization of
trade and the progressive reduction of tariffs
worldwide is cutting into Fiji's competitiveness.
SPARTECA's local-content rule discourages
local companies from reducing costs by intro-
ducing labor-saving technology, condemning
them to obsolescence in the long term.
In spite of all this potential, unemployment is a
major social problem. The economy generates
only 2,500 new jobs a year, but 1 5,000 young
people leave school every year, and unemploy-
ment is at 15 percent. Immediately after the 1987
coups Fiji's currency was devalued 33 percent,
and in January 1998 the Fiji dollar was devalued
another 20 percent. These moves increased the
country's competitiveness by giving exporters
more Fiji dollars for their products and encour-
aged tourism, while lowering the real incomes of
ordinary Fijians. To stimulate industry, firms that
export 95 percent of their products are granted
13-year tax holidays, the duty-free import of ma-
terials, and freedom to repatriate capital and
profits. By 1999 some 131 factories were oper-
ating under these laws.
In 1995 Fiji's financial standing was severely
shaken when it was announced that the gov-
ernment-owned National Bank of Fiji was holding
hundreds of millions of dollars in bad debts re-
sulting from politically motivated loans to in-
digenous Fijian and Rotuman politicians and
businesspeople. The subsequent run on de-
posits cost the bank another F$20 million, and
the government was forced to step in to save
the bank and cover its losses. In 1996 F$80 mil-
lion was spent on the bailout, and in 1997 an-
other F$133 million (or 12 percent of the 1997
budget) was diverted trom development projects
to cover it. Vast sums have been lost, an indi-
cation of a form of systemic corruption not usually
noticed by visitors. The 1999 Colonial Life In-
surance paid F$9.5 million for a 51 percent in-
terest in what was left of the National Bank.
Fiji has a debt of over F$1 ,425 million, equiv-
alent to 45 percent of the country's gross do-
mestic product or about F$1,850 per capita.
Eighty percent of the country's budget goes to-
ward debt repayments, public service salaries,
and other recurrent spending. Rising public in-
debtedness and deficit spending are discourag-
ing foreign investment. Cronyism and corrup-
tion, which the Chaudhry government attempted
to control, have returned full force since the May
2000 coup.
Trade and Aid
Fiji's balance of trade has improved in recent
years, and although the country still imports 35
percent more than it exports, much of the im-
balance is resold to tourists and foreign airlines
who pay in foreign exchange. Garments are the
nation's largest visible export earner, followed
by raw sugar, unrefined gold, wood products,
fish, kava, molasses, and ginger, in that order.
Yet large trade imbalances still exist with Aus-
tralia, New Zealand, and most Asian countries.
Mineral fuels used to eat up much of Fiji's im-
port budget, but this declined when the
Monasavu Hydroelectric Project and other self-
sufficiency measures came on-line in the 1980s.
Copyrighted material
ECONOMY 57
BALANCE OF TRADE
TOTAL IMPORTS TOTAL EXPORTS
F$1 .434 MILLION FS960 MILLION
(1998) (1998)
CHEMICALS OTHERS 4%
MANUFACTURED
GOODS 39%
Manufactured goods, motor vehicles, food, pe-
troleum products, and chemicals account for
most of the import bill.
Fiji is the least dependent South Pacific nation.
Overseas aid totals only F$40 million a year or
about FS50 per capita (as compared to several
thousand dollars per capita in Tahiti-Polynesia).
Development aid comes from Australia (FS15
million), the European Union (F$10 million),
Japan (F$6 million), New Zealand (F$5 million),
and China (under F$1 million). North American
aid to Fiji is negligible. The New Zealand Gov-
ernment deserves credit for devoting much of
its limited aid budget to the creation of national
parks and reserves.
In the wake of the May 2000 coup, countries
such as Australia have suspended their bilater-
al aid to non-humanitarian activities such as
training and scholarships for the public service to
give the interim government an incentive to return
Fiji to a democratic system of government.
Health and basic education assistance have not
been affected, and small-scale projects aimed at
helping poorer communities or supporting human
rights have continued.
Aside from conventional aid, in 1996 Fiji earned
FS1 1 .4 million from United Nations peacekeeping
duties while the army's role in other multinational
forces brought in another FS5.8 million. (Since
1978 some 34 Fijian soldiers and civilian staff
SUGAR 27%
(CAVA 4%
GARMENTS 33%
have died while on peacekeeping duties). In early
2000 some 190 Fijian soldiers were sent to Timor,
even though the U.N. is currently millions of dol-
lars in arrears in its payments to Fiji for peace-
keeping. Some 3,800 people serve in Fiji's military
( 1 ,000 of them overseas) costing the country over
FS40 million a year.
Tourism
Tourism has been the leading moneymaker
since 1989. earning over F$500 million a year —
more than sugar and gold combined. In 1999
some 409,955 tourists visited Fiji — twice as many
as visited Tahiti and 15 times as many as visited
Tonga. Things appear in better perspective,
however, when Fiji is compared to Hawaii, which
is about the same size in surface area. Over-
packed Hawaii gets nearly seven million tourists,
over 17 times as many as Fiji. Tourist arrivals
were down to 294,070 in 2000 due to the bad
publicity surrounding the May coup attempt, but
has since been slowly recovering.
Gross receipts figures from tourism are often
misleading, as 56 cents on every dollar is repa-
triated overseas by foreign investors or used to
pay for tourism-related imports. Sugar is actual-
ly far more profitable than tourism for Fiji. In
1997 the hotel industry employed 6,51 1 people
(5,358 full-time and 1 ,153 part-time) with an es-
timated 40,000 jobs in all sectors related to
riaterial
58 INTRODUCTION
ECOTOURISM OR ECOTERRORISM
Recently ecotounsm has become popular, and with
increasing concern in Western countries over the
damaging effects of solar radiation, more and more
people are looking for land-based activities as an
alternative to lying on the beach. This trend is being
fueled by "baby boomers" who are eager to spend
their disposable income on "soft adventure travel" in
exotic locales. In Fiji the most widespread manifes-
tation of the ecotourism/adventure phenomenon is
the current scuba diving boom, and tours by char-
tered yacht, ocean kayak, raft, surfboard, bicycle,
or on foot are proliferating.
This presents both a danger and an opportunity. In-
come from visitors wishing to experience nature gives
local residents and governments an incentive for pre-
serving the environment, although tourism can quick-
ly degrade that environment through littering, the col-
lection of coral and shells, and the development of
roads, docks, and resorts in natural areas. Means of
access created for ecotourists often end up being
used by local residents whose priority is not conser-
vation. Perhaps the strongest argument in favor of
the creation of national parks and reserves in tropical
countries is the ability of such parks to attract visi-
tors from industrialized areas while at the same time
creating a framework for the preservation of nature.
For in the final analysis, it is governments that must
enact regulations to protect the environment — market
forces usually do the opposite.
tourism. Management of the top hotels is usual-
ly expatriate, with Indo-Fijians filling technical
positions such as maintenance, cooking, ac-
counting, etc., and indigenous Fijians working
in more visible positions such as receptionists,
waiters, guides, and housekeepers.
With an eye to profitability, many resorts try to
use as many part-time workers as possible. Part-
timers are usually not scheduled for any specif-
ic hours, but are kept on standby and only called
in when things get busy or someone reports
sick. Even then, they're often given only a four-
hour shift. The hiring age for unskilled female
workers is 18 to 25, though older women are
occasionally hired for babysitting at a hotel.
Women can keep working after turning 25, but
they're usually shifted into less visible jobs like
laundry work and cleaning. Unskilled men are
Too often today what is called ecotourism is ac-
tually packaged consumer tounsm with a green coat-
ing, or just an excuse for high prices. Some four-
wheel-drive jeep safaris and jet boat excursions
have more to do with ecoterrorism than ecotourism.
A genuine ecotourism resort would be built of local
materials using natural ventilation. That means no air
conditioning and only limited use of fans. The build-
ings would fit into the natural landscape and not re-
strict access to customary lands or the sea. Local fish
and vegetables would enjoy preference over im-
ported meats on tourist tables, and waste would be
minimized. The use of aggressive motorized trans-
port would be kept to an absolute minimum. Cultur-
al sensitivity could be enhanced by profit sharing
with the landowning clans and local participation in
ownership.
Ecotourism is a people-oriented form of tourism
that should directly benefit the islanders themselves.
At smaller, locally owned businesses, visitors get
to meet locals on a more personal basis, while con-
tributing to local development. Guesthouse tourism
offers excellent employment opportunities for island
women as proprietors, and it's exactly what most
visitors want. Appropriate tourism requires little in-
vestment, there's less disruption, and full control re-
mains with the people themselves. (For a more com-
plete discussion of this topic than can be included
here, visit www.planeta.com.)
hired up to the age of 35, if they look okay.
Fiji has 220 licensed hotels with a total of
around 6,000 rooms, over a third of the South
Pacific's tourist beds. Most of the large resort
hotels in Fiji are foreign owned (although the
Tanoa and Cathay hotel chains are local Fiji-
based enterprises). The Fiji Government is doing
all it can to promote luxury hotel development by
offering 20-year tax holidays on new projects.
The May 2000 coup halted resort development
and has had a heavy impact on expatriate-run
ventures dependent on high occupancy levels.
The main tourist resorts are centered along the
Coral Coast of Viti Levu and in the Mamanuca Is-
lands off Nadi/Lautoka. Investment by U.S. hotel
chains has increased as Japanese firms have
pulled out. In 1996 ITT-Sheraton bought two luxury
hotels on Nadi's Denarau Island from a group of
Copyrighted material
Japanese banks. In 2000 Outrigger Hotels of
Hawaii built a major resort on the Coral Coast.
About 29 percent of Fiji's tourists come from
Australia, 18 percent from New Zealand, 15 per-
cent from the U.S., 10 percent from Britain, nine
ECONOMY 59
percent from Japan, seven percent from conti-
nental Europe, and three percent from Canada.
The vast majority of visitors arrive in Fiji to/from
Auckland. Sydney. Tokyo, Honolulu, Los Ange-
les, and Vancouver.
PACKED BY
PACIFIC FISHING CO.. LTD.
LEVUKA FIJI
NET WEIGHT I 85g
KORO SEA
A WCO PREMIUM QUALITY
TUNA FLAKES
VEGETABLE OIL
SALT ADDED
TUNA FLAKES
IN VEGETABLE OIL
SALT ADDED
60 INTRODUCTION
ft
THE PEOPLE
ETHNIC GROUPS
The Fijians
Fiji is a transitional zone between Polynesia and
Melanesia. Indigenous Fijians bear a physical
resemblance to the Melanesians, but like the
Polynesians, they have hereditary chiefs, patri-
lineal descent, a love of elaborate ceremonies,
and a fairly homogeneous language and cul-
ture. Fijians have interbred with Polynesians to
the extent that they have lighter skin and larger
stature than other Melanesians. In the interior
and west of Viti Levu where there was not as
much contact with Polynesians, the people tend
to be somewhat darker and smaller than the
easterners. Yet Fijians still have Melanesian
frizzy hair, while most — but not all — Polynesians
have straight hair.
The Fijians live in villages along the rivers or
coast, with anywhere from 50 to 400 people led
by a hereditary chief. To see a Fijian family living
in an isolated house in a rural area is uncommon.
The traditional thatched bure is fast disappearing
from Fiji as villagers rebuild in tin and panel
(often following destructive cyclones). Grass is
not as accessible as cement, takes more time to
repair, and is less permanent.
Away from the three largest islands the pop-
ulation is almost totally Fijian. Mataqali (clans) are
grouped into yavusa (tribes) of varying rank and
function. Several yavusa form a vanua, a number
of which make up a matanitu. Chiefs of the most
important vanua are known as high chiefs. In
western Viti Levu the groups are smaller, and
outstanding commoners can always rise to po-
sitions of power and prestige reserved for high
chiefs in the east.
Fijians work communal land individually, not
as a group. Each Fijian is assigned a piece of
native land. They grow most of their own food in
village gardens, and only a few staples such as
tea, sugar, flour, etc., are imported from Suva
and sold in local coop stores. A visit to one of
these stores will demonstrate just how little they
import and how self-sufficient they are. Fishing, vil-
lage maintenance work, and ceremonial presen-
tations are done together. While village life pro-
vides a form of collective security, individuals are
discouraged from rising above the group. Fijians
who attempt to set up a business are often stifled
by the demands of relatives and friends. The Fijian
custom of claiming favors from members of one's
own group is known as kerekere. This pattern
makes it difficult for Fijians to compete with Indo-
Fijians. for whom life has always been a struggle.
THE PEOPLE 61
The Indians
Most of the Indians now in Fiji are descended
from indentured laborers recruited in Bengal and
Bihar a century ago. In the first year of the sys-
tem (1879) some 450 Indians arrived in Fiji to
work in the cane fields. By 1 883 the total had
risen to 2,300 and in 1916, when the last inden-
tured laborers arrived, 63,000 Indians were pre-
sent in the colony. In 1920 the indenture sys-
tem was finally terminated, the cane fields were
divided into four-hectare plots, and the Indian
workers became tenant farmers on land owned
by Fijians. Indians continued to arrive until 1931 .
though many of these later arrivals were
Gujerati or Sikh businesspeople
In 1940 the Indian population
stood at 98.000, still below the
Fijian total of 105,000, but by
the 1946 census Indians had
outstripped Fijians 120,000 to
117,000— making Fijians a
minority in their own home-
land. In the wake of the
Rabuka coups the relative
proportions changed as
thousands of Indians emi-
grated to North America and
Australia, and by eariy 1 989
indigenous Fijians once again
outnumbered Indo-Fijians. The
1 996 census reported that F
ji's total population was 772,655.
of which 51.1 percent were Fijian
while 43.6 percent were Indian (at the
1 986 census 46 percent were
Fijian and 48.7 percent Indian).
Between 1986 and 1996 the
number of Indians in Fiji actu-
ally decreased by 12,125 with
the heaviest falls in rural areas.
Aside from emigration, the
more widespread use of con-
traceptives by Indian women
has led to a lower fertility rate.
The crude birth rate per 1 ,000
The descendants of the late
19th-century arnvals, such as this
young woman, make up almost
half of Fiji's population today.
These indentured laborers faced
many hardships and indignities,
one of which stemmed from a
British policy of allowing only 40
Indian women to be brought to
the island for every 100 men.
live in Suva, as do an increasing number of Fi-
jians. Within the Indo-Fijian community there
are divisions of Hindu (80 percent) versus Mus-
lim (20 percent), north Indian versus south Indi-
an, and Gujerati versus the rest. The Sikhs and
Gujeratis have always been somewhat of an
elite as they immigrated freely to Fiji outside the
indenture system.
The different groups have kept alive their an-
cient religious beliefs and rituals. Hindus tend
to marry within their caste, although the restric-
tions on behavior, which characterize the caste
system in India, have disappeared. Indo-Fijian
marriages are often arranged by the par-
ents, while Fijians generally choose
their own partners. Rural Indo-Fi-
jians still associate most closely
with other members of their ex-
tended patrilineal family group,
and Hindu and Muslim reli-
gious beliefs continue to re-
strict Indo-Fijian women to a
position subservient to men.
It's often said that Indians
concentrate on accumulation
while Fijians emphasize dis-
tribution. Yet Fiji's laws them-
selves encourage Indians to
invest their savings in business
by preventing them or anyone
else from purchasing native
communal land. And it's a fact that
Indo-Fijians earn 70 percent of the
income and pay 80 percent of the
taxes in Fiji, something no gov-
ernment can ignore. Yet high-
profile Indian dominance of the
retail sector has distorted the
picture somewhat, and the real-
ity is that the per capita incomes
of ordinary indigenous Fijians
and Indo-Fijians are not that dif-
ferent. The Fijians are not poor
because they are exploited by
Indians; the two groups simply
population is 28.4 for Fijians and 21 .0 for Indo-Fi- amass their wealth in different ways. In large
jians. measure, Fiji's excellent service and retail sectors
Unlike the village-based Fijians, a majority of exist thanks to the thrift and efficiency of the
Indo-Fijians are concentrated in the cane-grow- law-abiding Indians. When you consider their
ing areas and live in isolated farmhouses, small position in a land where most have lived four
settlements, or towns. Many Indo-Fijians also generations, where they form almost half the
62 INTRODUCTION
population, where many laws are slanted against
them, and where all natural resources are in the
hands of others, their industriousness and pa-
tience are admirable.
Other Groups
The 5,000 Fiji-born Europeans or Kai Vavalagi
are descendants of Australians and New Zeaian-
ders who came to build cotton, sugar, or copra
plantations in the 19th century. Many married
Fijian women, and the 13,000 part-Fijians or Kai
Loma of today are the result. There is almost
no intermarriage between Fijians (Kai Viti) and
Indo-Fijians (Kai India) (though Fijians intermarry
freely with Chinese and Solomon Islanders).
Many other Europeans are present in Fiji on
temporary contracts or as tourists.
Most of the 5,000 Chinese in Fiji are de-
scended from free settlers who came to set up
small businesses a century ago, although since
1 987 there has been an influx of Chinese from
mainland China who were originally admitted to
operate market gardens but who have since
moved into the towns. Chinese garment workers
continue to arrive. Fiji Chinese tend to intermar-
ry freely with the other racial groups.
The people of Rotuma, a majority of whom
now live in Suva, are Polynesians. On neigh-
boring islands off Vanua Levu are the Microne-
sians of Rabi (from Kiribati) and the Polynesians
of Kioa (from Tuvalu). The descendants of
Solomon Islanders blackbirded during the 19th
century still live in communities near Suva, Le-
vuka, and Labasa. The Tongans in Lau and
other Pacific islanders who have immigrated to
Fiji make this an ethnic crossroads of the Pa-
cific.
Social Conditions
Some 98 percent of the country's population
was bom in Fiji. The partial breakdown in race re-
lations since 1987 has been a tragedy for Fiji,
though racial antagonism has been exaggerated.
At the grassroots level, the different ethnic groups
have always gotten along remarkably well, with
little animosity. Unfortunately race relations in
Fiji have been manipulated by agitators with hid-
den agendas unrelated to race. As important as
race are the variations between rich and poor, or
urban (46 percent) and rural (54 percent). Av-
enues for future economic growth are limited.
and unemployment is reflected in an increasing
crime rate. Two-thirds of the rural population is
without electricity.
Although Fiji's economy grew by 25 percent
between 1977 and 1991 , the number of people
living in poverty increased by two-thirds over
the same period. The imposition in 1992 of a 10
percent value-added tax combined with reduc-
tions in income tax and import duties shifted the
burden of taxation from the haves to the have-
nots. A third of the population now lives in pover-
ty, and contrary to the myth of Indian economic
domination, Indo-Fijians are more likely to be
facing abject poverty than members of other
groups. Single-parent urban families cut off from
the extended-family social safety net are the
group most affected, especially women trying
to raise families on their own. As a Fijian woman
on Taveuni told us, "Life is easy in Fiji, only
money is a problem."
Literacy is high at 87 percent. Although edu-
cation is not compulsory at any level, 98 per-
cent of children age 6-14 attend school. Many
schools are still racially segregated. Over 100
church-operated schools receive government
subsidies. The Fiji Institute of Technology was
founded at Suva in 1963, followed by the Uni-
versity of the South Pacific in 1 968. The univer-
sity serves the 12 Pacific countries that con-
tribute to its costs. Medical services in Fiji are
heavily subsidized. The divisional hospitals are
at Labasa, Lautoka, and Suva, and there are
slso 19 sutD~clivision3l or &r6d hospitsls 74 hG3lth
centers, 100 nursing stations, and 409 village
clinics scattered around the country. The most
common infectious diseases are influenza, gon-
orrhea, and syphilis.
LAND RIGHTS
When Fiji became a British colony in 1874, the
land was divided between white settlers who
had bought plantations and the taukei ni gele,
the Fijian "owners of the soil." The government
assumed title to the balance. Today the alien-
ated (privately owned) plantation lands are
known as "freehold" land— about 10 percent of
the total. Another seven percent is Crown land.
80 percent of it currently leased for periods of up
to 99 years. The remaining 83 percent is in-
Copyrighted material
THE PEOPLE 63
alienable Fijian communal land, which can be
leased (about 30 percent is) but may never be
sold. Compare this 83 percent (much of it not
arable) with only three percent Maori land in
New Zealand and almost zero native Hawaiian
land. Land ownership has provided the Fijians
with a security that allows them to preserve their
traditional culture, unlike indigenous peoples in
most other countries.
Communal land is administered on behalf of
some 6,600 clan groups (mataqali) by the Native
Land Trust Board, a government agency es-
tablished in 1940. The NLTB retains 25 percent
of the lease money to cover administration, and
a further 10 percent is paid directly to regional
hereditary chiefs. In 1966 the Agricultural Land-
lord and Tenants Act (ALTA) increased the pe-
riod for which native land can be leased from 10
to 30 years. The 30-year leases began coming
up for renewal in 1997, and from 2000 to 2005
28 percent of the leases will expire (another 19
percent will expire from 2006 to 2010).
Many Fijian clans say they want their land
back so they can farm it themselves, and Fiji's
20,000 Indo-Fijian sugarcane farmers are be-
coming highly apprehensive. If rents are greatly
increased or the leases terminated, Fiji's sugar in-
dustry could be badly damaged and an explosive
social situation created. In the event of a lease
not being renewed, the government had been
giving farmers the choice of being resettled or of
receiving F$28,000 in compensation money for
improvements they had made. After the Speight
coup, this program was withdrawn. To date,
much of the agricultural land taken back by Fijian
clans has simply gone out of production.
At the First Constitutional Conference in 1965,
Indian rights were promulgated, and the 1970
independence constitution asserted that every-
one born in Fiji would be a citizen with equal
rights. These rights are reaffirmed in the 1 997
constitution. But land laws up to the present
have very much favored "Fiji for the Fijians."
Indo-Fijians have always accepted Fijian own-
ership of the land, provided they were granted
satisfactory leases. Now that the leases are en-
dangered, many Indo-Fijians fear they will be
driven from the only land they've ever known.
The stifling of land development may keep Fiji
quaint for tourists, but it also condemns a large
portion of the population of both races to back-
wardness and poverty.
GENDER ISSUES
Women in Fiji
Traditionally indigenous Fijian women were con-
fined to the home, while men handled most mat-
ters outside the immediate family. The clear-
cut roles of the woman as homemaker and the
man as defender and decision-maker gave sta-
bility to village life. Western education has
caused many Fijian women to question their
subordinate position and the changing lifestyle
has made the old relationship between the
sexes outmoded. Women's liberation has ar-
rived as paid employment expands and access
to family planning better enables women to hold
jobs. Fijian women are more emancipated than
their sisters in other Melanesian countries,
though men continue to dominate public life
throughout the region. Tradition is often manip-
ulated to deny women the right to express them-
selves publicly on community matters.
Cultural barriers hinder women's access to
education and employment, and the proportion of
girls in school falls rapidly as the grade level in-
creases. Female students are nudged into low-
paying fields such as nursing or secretarial ser-
vices; in Fiji and elsewhere, export-oriented gar-
ment factories exploit women workers, paying
low wages amidst poor working conditions. Lev-
els of domestic violence vary greatly, though it's
far less accepted among indigenous Fijians than
it is among Indo-Fijians, and in Fiji's Macuata
Province women have a suicide rate seven times
above the world average, with most of the victims
being Indo-Fijian. Those little signs on buses
reading "real men don't hit women" suggest the
problem. Travelers should take an interest in
women's issues.
RELIGION
The main religious groups in Fiji are Hindus
(290,000). Methodists (265,000), Catholics
(70,000), Muslims (62,000), Assemblies of God
(33,000), and Seventh-Day Adventists (20,000).
Copyrighted material
64 INTRODUCTION
Around 40 percent of the total population is Hindu
or Muslim due to the large Indo-Fijian population,
and only two percent of Indo-Fijians have con-
verted to Christianity despite Methodist mis-
sionary efforts dating back to 1884. About 78
percent of indigenous Fijians are Methodist, and
8.5 percent are Catholic.
Since the 1 987 military coups, an avalanche of
well-financed American fundamentalist mis-
sionary groups has descended on Fiji, and mem-
bership in the Assemblies of God and some
other new Christian sects is growing quickly at
the expense of the Methodists. While the
Methodist Church has long been localized, the
new evangelical sects are dominated by foreign
missionaries, ideas, and money.
The Assemblies of God (AOG) is a Pente-
costal denomination founded in Arkansas in
1914 and presently headquartered in Spring-
field, Missouri. It emphasizes the practice of
glossolalia or "speaking in tongues." Although
the AOG carries out some relief work, it doesn't
involve itself in social reform in the belief that
only God can solve humanity's problems. In Fiji,
the number of AOG adherents increased twelve-
fold between 1966 and 1992. A large AOG Bible
College operates in Suva, and from Fiji the group
has spread to other Pacific countries.
The Seventh-Day Adventist Church is a politi-
cally ultra-conservative group that grew out of
the 19th century American Baptist movement.
The SDA Church teaches the imminent return of
Christ, and Saturday (rather than Sunday) is ob-
served as the Lord's day. SDAs regard the human
body as the temple of the Holy Spirit, thus much
attention is paid to health matters. Members are
forbidden to partake of certain foods, alcohol,
drugs, and tobacco, and the church expends con-
siderable energy on the provision of medical and
dental services. They are also active in education
and local economic development.
The ecumenical Pacific Conference of
Churches began in 1961 as an association of
the mainstream Protestant churches, but since
1976 many Catholic dioceses have been in-
cluded as well. Both the Pacific Theological Col-
lege (founded in 1966) and the Pacific Regional
Seminary (opened in 1972) are in southern Suva,
and the South Pacific is one of the few areas of
the world with a large surplus of ministers.
LANGUAGE
Fijian, a member of the Austronesian family of
languages spoken from Easter Island to Mada-
gascar, has more speakers than any other in-
digenous Pacific language. Fijian vowels are
pronounced as in Latin or Spanish, while the
consonants are similar to those of English. Syl-
lables end in a vowel, and the next-to-last syl-
lable is usually the one emphasized. Where two
vowels appear together they are sounded sep-
arately. In 1835 two Methodist missionaries,
David Cargill and William Cross, devised the
form of written Fijian used in Fiji today. Since all
consonants in Fijian are separated by vowels,
they spelled mb as b, nd as d, ng as g, ngg as q,
and th as c.
Though Cargill and Cross worked at Lakeba in
the Lau Group, the political importance of tiny
Bau Island just off Viti Levu caused the Bauan di-
alect of Fijian to be selected as the "official" ver-
sion of the language, and in 1850 a dictionary
and grammar were published. When the Bible
was translated into Bauan that dialect's domi-
nance was assured, and it is today s spoken
and written Fijian. From 1 920 to 1 970 the use of
Fijian was discouraged in favor of English, but
since independence there has been a revival.
Hindustani or Hindi is the household tongue of
most Indo-Fijians. Fiji Hindi has diverged from
that spoken in India with the adoption of many
words from English and other Indian languages
such as Urdu. Though a quarter of Indo-Fijians
are descended from immigrants from southern
India where Tamil and Telegu are spoken, few
use those languages today, even at home. Fiji
Muslims speak Hindi out of practical considera-
tions, though they might consider Urdu their
motner tongue, in tneir spoKen rorms, ninoi ana
Urdu are very similar.
English is the second official language in Fiji
and is understood by almost everyone. All
schools teach exclusively in English after the
fourth grade. Indo-Fijians and indigenous Fijians
usually communicate with one another in English.
Gilbertese is spoken by the Banabans of Rabi.
See the Capsule Fijian Vocabulary and the
Capsule Hindi Vocabulary for some useful words
and phrases.
Copyrighted material
CUSTOMS 65
CUSTOMS
Fijians and Indo-Fijians are very tradition-ori-
ented peoples who have retained a surprising
number of their ancestral customs despite the
flood of conflicting influences that have swept
the Pacific over the past century. Rather than a
melting pot where one group assimilated anoth-
er, Fiji is a patchwork of varied traditions.
The obligations and responsibilities of Fijian vil-
lage life include not only the construction and
upkeep of certain buildings, but personal par-
ticipation in the many ceremonies that give their
lives meaning. Hindu Indians, on the other hand,
practice firewalking and observe festivals such as
Holi and Diwali, just as their forebears in India did
for thousands of years.
Fijian Firewalking
In Fiji, both Fijians and Indo-Fijians practice fire-
walking, with the difference being that the Fijians
walk on heated stones instead of hot embers.
Legends tell how the ability to walk on fire was
first given to a warrior named Tui-na-viqalita from
Beqa Island, just off the south coast of Viti Levu,
who had spared the life of a spirit god he caught
while fishing for eels. The freed spirit gave to
Tui-na-viqalita the gift of immunity to fire. Today
his descendants act as bete (high priests) of the
rite of vilavilairevo (jumping into the oven). Only
members of his tribe, the Sawau, perform the
ceremony. The Tui Sawau lives at Dakuibeqa
village on Beqa. but firewalking is now only per-
formed at the resort hotels on Viti Levu.
Fijian firewalkers (men only) are not permitted
to have sex or to eat any coconut for two weeks
prior to a performance. A man whose wife is
pregnant is also barred. In a circular pit about
four meters across, hundreds of large stones
are first heated by a wood fire until they are
white-hot. If you throw a handkerchief on the
stones, it will burst into flames. Much ceremony
and chanting accompanies certain phases of
the ritual, such as the moment when the wood is
removed to leave just the white-hot stones. The
| men psych themselves up in a nearby hut. then
| emerge, enter the pit, and walk briskly around it
J once. Bundles of leaves and grass are then
2 thrown on the stones and the men stand inside
the steaming pit again to chant a final song.
They seem to have complete immunity to pain,
and there is no trace of injury. The men appear to
fortify themselves with the heat, gaining some
psychic power from the ritual.
Indian Firewalking
By an extraordinary coincidence, Indo-Fijians
brought with them the ancient practice of reli-
gious firewalking. In southern India, firewalking oc-
curs in the pre-monsoon season as a call to the
goddess Kali (Durga) for rain. Indo-Fijian fire-
walking is an act of purification, or fulfillment of a
vow to thank the god for help in a difficult situation.
In Fiji there is firewalking in most Hindu tem-
ples once a year, at full moon sometime be-
tween May and September according to the
Indo-Fijians walk over hot coals at a religious
festival to purify themselves or give thanks to
Durga for assistance rendered.
66 INTRODUCTION
Hindu calendar. The actual event takes place
on a Sunday at 1600 on the Suva side of Viti
Levu, and at 0400 on the Nadi/Lautoka side. In
August firewalking takes place at the Mahadevi
Sangam Temple on Howell Road, Suva. Dur-
ing the 1 0 festival days preceding the walk, par-
ticipants remain in isolation, eat only unspiced
vegetarian food, and spiritually prepare them-
selves. There are prayers at the temple in the
early morning and a group singing of religious
stories evenings from Monday through Thurs-
day. The yellow-clad devotees, their faces paint-
ed bright yellow and red. often pierce their
cheeks or other body parts with spikes or three-
pronged forks as part of the purification rites.
Their fa«th is so strong they feel no pain.
The event is extremely colorful; drumming
and chanting accompany the visual spectacle.
Visitors are welcome to observe the firewalk-
ing. but since the exact date varies from tem-
ple to temple according to the phases of the
moon (among other factors), you just have to
keep asking to find out where and when it will
take place. To enter the temple you must re-
move your shoes and any leather clothing.
The Yaqona Ceremony
Yaqona (pronounced "yang-GO-na") is a tran-
quilizing, nonalcoholic drink that numbs the tongue
and lips. Better known as kava, it's made from
the waka (dried root) of the pepper plant
(Macropiper methysticum). This ceremonial prepa-
ration is the most honored feature of the formal life
of Fijians, Tongans, and Samoans. It is performed
with the utmost gravity according to a sacramen-
tal ritual to mark births, marriages, deaths, offi-
cial visits, the installation of a new chief, etc.
New mats are first spread on the floor, on
which a hand-carved tanoa (a wooden bowl
nearly a meter wide) is placed. A long fiber cord
decorated with cowry shells leads from the bowl
to the guests of honor. At the end of the cord is a
white cowry, which symbolizes a link to ancestral
spirits. As many as 70 men take their places be-
fore the bowl. The officiates are adorned with
tapa, fiber, and croton leaves, their torsos
smeared with glistening coconut oil. their faces
usually blackened.
The guests present a bundle of waka to the
hosts, along with a short speech explaining their
visit, a custom known as a sevusevu. The se-
vusevu is received by the hosts and acknowl-
edged with a short speech of acceptance. The
waka are then scraped clean and pounded in a
tabili (mortar). Formerly they were chewed.
Nowadays the pulp is put in a cloth sack and
mixed with water in the tanoa. In the ceremony
the yaqona is kneaded and strained through vau
(hibiscus) fibers.
The mixer displays the strength of the grog
(kava) to the mata ni vanua (master of cere-
monies) by pouring out a cupful into the tanoa. If
the mata ni vanua considers the mix too strong,
he calls for wai (water), then says lose (mix),
and the mixer proceeds. Again he shows the
consistency to the mata ni vanua by pouring
out a cupful. If it appears right, the mata ni vanua
says loba (squeeze). The mixer squeezes the
Draped in croton
leaves, the cupbearer
offers a bowl of yaqona
to a visiting chief at a
formal kava ceremony.
naterial
CUSTOMS 67
TABUA
Yaqona (or kava) the Fijians share with
the Polynesians, but the tabua. or whale's
tooth, is significant only in Fiji. The tabua
obtained from the sperm whale have al-
ways played an important part in Fijian
ceremonies. In the 19th century they were
hung around the necks of warriors and
chiefs during festivals. Even today they
are presented to distinguished guests
and are exchanged at weddings, births,
deaths, reconciliations, and also when
personal or communal contracts or agree-
ments are entered into Tabua. contrary to
popular belief, have never been used as
a currency and can not be used to pur-
chase goods or services. It is a great
honor to be presented with tabua.
remaining juice out of the pulp, puts it aside,
and announces, sa lose oti saka na yaqona,
vaka turaga (the kava is ready, my chief). He
runs both hands around the rim of the tanoa
and claps three times.
The mata ni vanua then says talo (serve).
The cupbearer squats in front of the tanoa with a
bilo (half coconut shell), which the mixer fills.
The cupbearer then presents the first cup to the
guest of honor, who claps once and drains it,
and everyone claps three times. The second
cup goes to the guests' mata ni vanua, who
claps once and drinks The man sitting next to
the mixer says aa, and everyone answers maca
(empty). The third cup is for the first local chief,
who claps once before drinking, and everyone
claps three times after. Then the mata ni vanua
of the first local chief claps once and drinks, and
everyone says maca. The same occurs for the
second local chief and his mata ni vanua.
After these six men have finished their cups,
the mixer announces, sa maca saka tu na
yaqona, vaka turaga (the bowl is empty, my
chief), and the mata ni vanua says cobo (clap).
The mixer then runs both hands around the rim
of the tanoa and claps three times. This termi-
nates the full ceremony, but then a second bowl
is prepared and everyone drinks. During the
drinking of the first bowl complete silence must
be maintained.
Social Kava Drinking
While the passage above describes one of sev-
eral forms of the full yaqona ceremony, which is
performed only for high chiefs, abbreviated ver-
sions are put on for tourists at the hotels. How-
ever, the village people have simplified grog ses-
sions almost daily. Kava drinking is an important
form of Fijian entertainment and a way of struc-
turing friendships and community relations. Even
in government offices a bowl of grog is kept for the
staff to take as a refreshment at yaqona breaks.
Some say the Fijians have yaqona rather than
blood in their veins. Excessive kava drinking over
a long period can make the skin scaly and rough,
a condition known as kanikani.
Individual visitors to villages are invariably
invited to participate in informal kava cere-
monies, in which case it's customary to present
a bunch of kava roots to the group. Do this at the
beginning, before anybody starts drinking, and
make a short speech explaining the purpose of
your visit (be it a desire to meet the people and
learn about their way of life, an interest in seeing
or doing something in particular on their island,
or just a holiday from work). Don't hand the
roots to anyone, just place them on the mat in
the center of the circle. The bigger the bundle of
roots, the bigger the smiles. (The roots are eas-
ily purchased at any town market for about FS15
a half kilo.)
68 INTRODUCTION
Clap once when the cupbearer offers you the
bilo, then take it in both hands and say "bula"
just before the cup meets your lips. Clap three
times after you drink. Remember, you're a par-
ticipant, not an onlooking tourist, so don't take
photos if the ceremony is formal. Even though
you may not like the appearance or taste of the
drink, do try to finish at least the first cup. Tip
the cup to show you are done.
It's considered extremely bad manners to
turn your back on a chief during a kava cere-
mony, to walk in front of the circle of people
when entering or leaving, or to step over the
long cord attached to the tanoa. During a semi-
formal ceremony, you should remain silent until
the opening ritual is complete, signaled by a
round of clapping.
Presentation of the Tabua
The tabua is a tooth of the sperm whale. It was
once presented when chiefs exchanged dele-
gates at confederacy meetings and before con-
ferences on peace or war. In recent times, the
tabua is presented during chiefly yaqona cere-
monies as a symbolic welcome for a respected
visitor or guest or as a prelude to public busi-
ness or modern-day official functions. On the
village level, tabuas are still commonly present-
ed to arrange marriages, to show sympathy at fu-
nerals, to request favors, to settle disputes, or
simply to show respect.
Old tabuas are highly polished from continuous
handling. The larger the tooth, the greater its cer-
emonial value. Tabuas are prized cultural property
and may not be exported from Fiji. Endangered
species laws prohibit their entry into the United
States, Australia, and many other countries.
Stingray Spearing and Fish Drives
Stingrays are lethal-looking creatures with caudal
spines up to 18 centimeters long. To catch them,
eight or nine punts are drawn up in a line about a
kilometer long beside the reef. As soon as a
stingray is sighted, a punt is paddled forward with
great speed until close enough to hurl a spear.
Another time-honored sport and source of
food is the fish drive or yavirau, in which an entire
village participates. Around the flat surface of a
reef at rising tide, sometimes as many as 70
men and women group themselves in a circle
a kilometer or more in circumference. All grip a
ring of connected liana vines with leaves at-
tached. While shouting, singing, and beating
long poles on the seabed, the group slowly con-
tracts the ring as the tide comes in. The shadow
of the ring alone is enough to keep the fish with-
in the circle. The fish are finally directed landward
into a net or stone fish trap.
The Rising of the Balolo
This event takes place only in Samoa and Fiji.
The balolo (Eunice viridis) is a thin, segmented
closing the ring during a Beqa fish drive
CUSTOMS 69
worm of the Coelomate order, considered a culi-
nary delicacy throughout these islands — the
caviar of the Pacific. It's about 45 centimeters
long and lives deep in the fissures of coral reefs.
Twice a year it releases an unusual "tail" that
contains its eggs or sperm. The worm itself re-
turns to the coral to regenerate a new repro-
ductive tail. The rising of the baloio is a natural al-
manac that keeps both lunar and solar times,
and has a fixed day of appearance — even if a
hurricane is raging — one night in the last quarter
of the moon in October, and the corresponding
night in November. It has never failed to appear
on time for over 100 years now, and you can
even check your calendar by it.
Because this rising occurs with such mathe-
matical certainty, Fijians are waiting in their boats
to scoop the millions of writhing, reddish brown
(male) and moss green (female) spawn from the
water when they rise to the surface before dawn.
Within an hour after the rising, the eggs and
sperm are released to spawn the next generation
of balolo. The free-swimming larvae seek a suit-
able coral patch to begin the cycle again. This is
one of the most bizarre curiosities in the natural
history of the South Pacific, and the southeast
coast of Ovalau is a good place to observe it.
CONDUCT
Foreign travel is an exceptional experience en-
joyed by a privileged few. Too often, tourists try
to transfer their lifestyles to tropical islands, there-
by missing out on what is unique to the region.
Travel can be a learning experience if ap-
proached openly and with a positive attitude.
So read up on the local culture before you arrive
and become aware of the social and environ-
mental problems of the area. A wise traveler
soon graduates from hearing and seeing to lis-
tening and observing. Speaking is good for the
ego and listening is good for the soul.
The path is primed with packaged pleasures, but
pierce the bubble of tourism and you'll encounter
something far from the schedules and organized
efficiency: a time to learn how other people live.
Walk gently, for human qualities are as fragile
and responsive to abuse as the brilliant reefs. The
islanders are by nature soft-spoken and reserved.
Often they won't show open disapproval if their
social codes are broken, but don't underestimate
them. Consider that you're only one of thousands
of visitors to their country, so don't expect to be
treated better than anyone else. Respect is one of
the most important things in Pacific life and humility
is also greatly appreciated.
If you're alone you're lucky, for the single trav-
eler is everyone's friend. Get away from other
tourists and meet the people. There aren't many
places on earth where you can still do this mean-
ingfully, but Fiji is one. If you do meet people
with similar interests, keep in touch by writing.
This is no tourist's paradise, though, and local
residents are not exhibits or paid performers.
They have as many or more problems as you,
and if you see them as real people you are less
likely to be viewed as a stereotypical tourist. You
may have come to escape civilization, but keep
in mind that you're just a guest.
Most important of all, try to see things their
way. Take an interest in local customs, values,
languages, challenges, and successes. If things
work differently than they do back home, give
thanks that you are experiencing this different
culture. Reflect on what you've experienced and
you'll return home with a better understanding of
how much we all have in common, outwardly
different as we may seem.
Dress
It's important to know that the dress code in Fiji is
strict. Wearing short shorts, halter tops, and
bathing costumes in public shows a lack of re-
spect. In a Fijian village it's considered offen-
sive to reveal too much skin. Wrap a sulu around
you to cover up. Men should always wear a shirt
in town, and women should wear dresses that
adequately cover their legs while seated. Noth-
ing will mark you so quickly as a tourist nor make
you more popular witn street vendors man scanty
dress. Of course, it is permissible to wear skimpy
clothing on the beach in front of a resort hotel. In
a society where even bathing suits are consid-
ered extremely risque for local women, public
nudity is unthinkable, and topless sunbathing
by women is also banned in Fiji (except at iso-
lated island resorts).
Questions
The islanders are eager to please, so phrase
your questions carefully. They'll answer yes or no
Copyrighted material
70 INTRODUCTION
according to what they think you want to hear—
don't suggest the answer in your question. Test
this by asking your informant to confirm some-
thing you know to be incorrect. Also don't ask
negative questions, such as "you're not going
to Suva, are you?" Invariably the answer will be
"yes,'' meaning "yes, I'm not going to Suva." It
also could work like this: "Don't you have any-
thing cheaper?" "Yes." "What do you have that is
cheaper?" "Nothing." Yes, he doesn't have any-
thing cheaper. If you want to be sure of some-
thing, ask several people the same question in
different ways.
Dangers and Annoyances
In Suva, beware of the seemingly friendly Fijian
men (usually with a small package or canvas
bag in their hands) who will greet you on the
street with a hearty Bula! These are "sword sell-
ers" who will ask your name, quickly carve it on
a mask, and then demand FS20 for a set that you
could buy at a Nadi curio shop for F$5. Other
times they'll try to engage you in conversation
and may offer a "gift." Just say "thank you very
much" and walk away from them quickly without
accepting anything, as they can suddenly be-
come unpleasant and aggressive. Their
grotesque swords and masks themselves have
nothing to do with Fiji.
Similarly, overly sociable people at bars may
expect you to buy them drinks and snacks. In the
main tourist centers such as Nadi and Suva,
take care if a local invites you to visit his
home as you may be seen mainly
as a source of beer and other
goods. Also, don't be fooled by
anyone on the street who claims
to work at your resort and offers to show you
around. They only want to sell you something.
Although The Fiji Times is often full of stories
of violent crimes including assaults, robberies,
and burglaries, it's partly the novelty of these
events that makes them worth reporting. Fiji is
still a much safer country than the United States
and tourists are not specifically targeted for at-
tack, but normal precautions should still be taken.
Keep to well-lit streets at night, take a taxi if
you've had more than one drink, and steer clear
of poorly dressed Fijian men who may accost
you on the street for no reason. Don't react if
offered drugs. It's wise to keep valuables locked
in your bag in hotel rooms.
Women should have few real problems trav-
eling around Fiji on their own, so long as they're
prepared to cope with frequent offers of mar-
riage. Although a female tourist shouldn't have to
face sexist violence the way a local woman
might, it's smart to be defensive and to lie about
where you're staying. If you want to be left alone,
conservative dress and purposeful behavior will
work to your advantage. In village situations
seek the company of local women.
riji has begun cracking down on foreign pedo-
philes, and in late 1999 an Australian accountant
was sentenced to seven years in prison for two
rapes and four indecent assaults involving
underage girls. The case was widely publicized
and the authorities are on the alert. The public
has been asked to promptly report suspected
pedophiles.
Littering is punished by a minimum F$40
fine and breaking bottles in public can
earn six months in jail (unfortunate-
ly seldom enforced).
Copyrighted material
HIGHLIGHTS 71
ON THE ROAD
HIGHLIGHTS
Fiji is brimming with colorful attractions, splendid
scenery, friendly people, and exciting things to
do. From the gateway city Nadi with its numer-
ous shopping and dining possibilities, it's only
a quick commuter hop to the enticing Mamanu-
ca Group with about half of Fiji's island resorts.
The clear waters, golden sands, dazzling reefs,
and good facilities have made this a popular va-
cation destination for Australians and New
Zealanders, but islands like Malololailai. Malolo,
and Mana also attract scuba divers and yacht en-
thusiasts. The long, narrow Yasawa Group off
the sugar city Lautoka is wilder, mightier, and
less developed than the Mamanucas: the beach-
es are longer, the jungle-clad mountains higher,
and the accommodations rougher. It's Fiji's most
magnificent island chain.
Fiji's mainland, Viti Levu, is the "real" Fiji,
where much of the country's history has unfold-
ed and the bulk of the Fijian people live out their
lives. The 486-km highway around the island
passes a series of appealing cities and towns
with bustling markets, bus stations, shops, cafes,
clubs, monuments, and facilities of every kind.
The Coral Coast in the south is the country's
second resort area, with a series of large hotels
nicely spaced between Nadi and Pacific Har-
bor. Visitors looking for more than only beach
life often pick these resorts for the numerous
tours and sporting activities available. Pacific
Harbor itself offers access to some of the best
diving, fishing, kayaking, white-water rafting, and
golfing in the South Pacific, and Nananu-i-Ra Is-
land off Viti Levu's north coast is a favorite of
backpackers.
Fiji's current capital, Suva, has the country's
finest cinemas, monuments, museums, nightlife,
restaurants, stores, and all of the excitement of
the South Pacific's biggest town. Ships, buses,
and planes depart Suva for every corner of the
naterial
72 ON THE ROAD
10 TOP SITES OF FIJI
Bouma National Heritage Park. Taveuni
Colo-i-Suva Forest Park, Suva
Fiji Museum. Suva
Frigate Passage. Beqa Barrier Reef
Koroyanitu National Heritage Park, Lautoka
Levuka, Ovalau
Savusavu, Vanua Levu
Sigatoka Sand Dunes, Viti Levu
Tavewa and the Blue Lagoon, Yasawas
Wayasewa and Waya Islands, Yasawas
republic. The campus of the region's main uni-
versity, the headquarters of international orga-
nizations, government ministries, embassies, li-
braries, and the large trading companies are all
here. It's a fascinating place to explore.
Several adjacent islands allow one to escape
from Suva. Kadavu to the south is a characteris-
tic Fijian island of small villages strewn between
beaches and hills, but its also a mecca for scuba
divers who come for the Astrolabe Reef, and for
surfers who have discovered Kadavu's waves.
Several well established backpacker camps and
upscale resorts make visiting Kadavu easy. Back
toward Viti Levu are Beqa, with two upscale
scuba resorts, and Yanuca. with inexpensive
beach camps full of enthusiastic surfers
Anyone with even the slightest interest in Fiji's
vivid history won't want to miss Ovalau Island
and the timewom old capital Levuka. The town's
long row of wooden storefronts looks like the set
of a Wild West film, and there are abundant mon-
uments, museums, and historic buildings to dis-
cover, all of it set below towering volcanic peaks.
Despite these attractions, Levuka remains re-
markably urrvisited by most tourists, largely thanks
to the absence of a good beach. It's the best pre-
served relic of the old South Seas anywhere be-
tween San Francisco and Sydney.
Across the Koro Sea from Ovalau is Fiji's sec-
ond island, Vanua Levu, heart of the "friendly
north." Because a slight effort is involved in get-
ting there, far fewer tourists ply these exotic
shores. Yet Savusavu is Fiji's most picturesque
town after Levuka, set along a splendid wide
bay with an attractive waterfront promenade.
Long a center of the Fiji copra trade, planters
from the surrounding farms still congregate at
the town's colonial-style club on Sundays. Two
spectacular highways sweep away from
Savusavu: one travels through the mountains
to the mill town of Labasa, and another snakes
east along the verdant coast to Buca Bay.
Repeat visitors and local Fijians often assert
that Taveuni is Fiji's finest island, a claim which is
difficult to deny. The island's high spine is draped
in impenetrable rainforest, with huge coconut
plantations tumbling to the coast. Magnificent wa-
terfalls pour down the steep slopes, and the scuba
diving is world famous. Yet Fiji doesn't end here:
There are many little-known isles in the Lau and
Lomaiviti groups, including some like Vanua Bal-
avu with satisfactory facilities for visitors.
Budget travelers often appreciate Tavewa
and adjacent islands, which rank high for their
spellbinding environment, stimulating activities,
and agreeable company. Waya and Wayase-
wa are similar. City slickers won't bore easily in
Suva, and it's the place to be if you like studying.
The city's excellent libraries and museums are
meant to be savored slowly. Kadavu and Ono
both have backpacker camps offering unlimit-
ed swimming, snorkeling, scuba, and exploring.
Leleuvia just south of Ovalau is also great for a
relaxing holiday with abundant diving. Taveuni
and Vanua Balavu both possess inexpensive
village-style lodgings. Two weeks is the absolute
minimum required to get a feel for Fiji, and after
a month you'll be in a position to begin planning
your next visit.
Suggested Itineraries
Most visitors arrive in Nadi, with a large per-
centage immediately transferring to resorts in
the Mamanucas or along the Coral Coast. Over-
land travelers intent on seeing Fiji on their own,
should start moving the morning after they arrive.
Save your sightseeing around Nadi until the end
of your trip, when you have to be there to catch
your flight.
Those with one week in Fiji can easily cir-
cumnavigate Viti Levu by public bus, and since
there are far fewer places to stop along Kings
Road, it's best to cover the north side of the island
first. Starting from Nadi or Lautoka, you can eas-
ily make it through to Suva in a day. After a night
or two there, fly to Levuka for two nights. Return
to Suva on the early morning Patterson Brothers
bus (daily except Sunday), then catch a con-
Copyrighted material
SPORTS AND RECREATION 73
necting bus to somewhere on the Coral Coast.
The next day you can head back to Nadi with
time to stop at the Sigatoka Sand Dunes.
Visitors with two weeks at their disposal can
also visit "the friendly north." The fast catamaran
Lagilagi operates from Nadi or Lautoka direct
to Savusavu twice a week. If your timing is
wrong, consider the Patterson Brothers Lautoka-
Rakiraki-Nabouwalu-Labasa bus-ferry-bus route,
a tiring but intriguing trip. Another Patterson
Brothers bus-ferry connects Savusavu to Tave-
uni via Natuvu. Depending on your schedule,
there are ferries from Taveuni straight to Suva, or
you can fly back to Savusavu and catch a ferry
there. Then follow the Ovalau-Coral Coast route
described above.
Visitors with three weeks can do the same, at
a more leisurely pace. For a sidetrip to the Ya-
sawa Islands from Nadi or Lautoka, you should
allow about a week, but do it at the beginning of
your trip as ferry services to Waya and Tavewa
are at the mercy of weather conditions. Kadavu
isn't quite as risky an excursion since you can fly
out. Around Nadi, if you've only got a few days to
spare, the Mamanuca Islands are an appropriate
choice. Pick the backpacker camps on Mana or
Malolo if you're on a low budget. Beachcomber
or Malololailai if you've got more to spend, or
Castaway, Treasure, or Malolo Resort if money
isn't a big consideration. And for ecotourists,
there's Koroyanitu National Heritage Park.
SPORTS AND
Scuba Diving
Fiji has been called "the soft coral capital of the
world" and few seasoned divers will deny that Fiji
has some of the finest diving in the South Pacif-
ic, with top facilities at the best prices. You won't
go wrong choosing Fiji. The worst underwater
visibility conditions here are the equivalent of
the finest off Florida. In the Gulf of Mexico you've
about reached the limit if you can see for 1 5 me-
ters; in Fiji the visibility begins at 1 5 meters and
increases to 45 meters in some places. Many
fantastic dives are just 10 or 15 minutes away
from the resorts by boat (whereas at Australi-
a's Great Barrier Reef, the speedboats often
have to travel over 60 km to get to the dive sites).
Here are some of Fiji's top diving locations:
Parks and Reserves
The National Trust for Fiji (P.O. Box 2089.
Government Buildings, Suva, Fiji; tel. 301-807.
fax 305-092) administers eight national parks
and historic sites. Of these the Sigatoka Sand
Dunes National Park and the Waisali Nature
Reserve near Savusavu both have visitor centers
easily accessible by public bus. Koroyanitu Na-
tional Heritage Park, inland from Lautoka, is also
easily reached and has accommodations for hik-
ers. Although not an official reserve, the forested
area around Nadarivatu in central Viti Levu is
similar. Bouma National Heritage Park around
Bouma and Lavena on the northeastern side of
Taveuni features unspoiled rainforests and wa-
terfalls reachable along hiking trails. The new
Waitabu Marine Park is adjacent. Colo-i-Suva
Forest Park behind Suva also beckons the na-
ture lover with quiet walks through a mahogany
forest and a new ecolodge. Further information
on all of these is provided later in this handbook.
RECREATION
• Great Astrolabe Reef, Kadavu (caves,
marinelife)
• Namena Barrier Reef, south of Savusavu
(giant clams)
• Rainbow Reef, west of Taveuni (crevices,
soft coral)
• Side Streets, Beqa Lagoon (soft corals, sea
fans)
• Supermarket, west of Mana Island (shark
feeding)
• Wakaya Passage, east of Levuka (rays,
hammerheads)
Diving is possible year-round, with the marinelife
most bountiful from July to November. The best
diving conditions are from March to December,
74 ON THE ROAD
the calmest seas in April and May. Visibility is
tops from June to October, then slightly worse
from November to February due to rainfall and
plankton growth. Water temperatures vary from
24° C in June. July, and August to 30° C in De-
cember, January, and February. Wetsuits are
recommended during winter months.
Facilities for scuba diving exist at most of the re-
sorts in the Mamanuca Group, along Viti Levu's
Coral Coast and at Pacific Harbor, on Kadavu,
Leleuvia, Beqa, Nananu-i-Ra, Tavewa, and
Wayasewa, at Nadi, Lautoka, and Savusavu, and
on Taveuni and adjacent islands. Low-budget
divers should turn to the Kadavu, Leleuvia, Nadi,
Taveuni, Tavewa, and Wayasewa sections in this
book and read. Specialized nonhotel dive shops
are found at Nadi, Pacific Harbor. Lautoka,
Savusavu, and on Taveuni. When choosing a
place to stay, pick somewhere as close as pos-
sible to the places you wish to dive as scuba op-
erators generally resist spending a lot of money on
fuel to commute to distant reefs.
Serious divers will bring along their own mask,
buoyancy compensator, and regulator. If you've
never dived before, Fiji is an excellent place to
learn, and the Kadavu, Leleuvia, Musket Cove,
Nadi, Nananu-i-Ra, Pacific Harbor, Taveuni,
Tavewa, and Wayasewa scuba operators offer
open-water certification courses lasting four or
five days. The best course prices are usually of-
fered by the Nadi-area dive shops, which can
afford to charge less due to their high volume
of customers. Leleuvia is also good. Learning
to dive on Taveuni is over a hundred dollars
more expensive. If you have children, Subsur-
face Fiji at Musket Cove Resort and on Beach-
comber Island specializes in teaching diving to
kids as young as 12! Many of the scuba opera-
tors listed in this book also offer introductory "re-
sort courses" for those who only want a taste of
scuba diving. For information about live-aboard
dive boats see Scuba Cruises, which follows.
Snorkeling
Even if you aren't willing to put the necessary
money and effort into scuba diving, you may
want to investigate the many snorkeling possi-
bilities. Some dive shops take snorkelers out in
their boats for a nominal rate, but there are count-
less places around Fiji where you can snorkel
straight out to the reef for free, mostly on small-
1 0 SAFETY RULES OF DIVING
1 . The most important rule in scuba diving is to
BREATHE CONTINUOUSLY. If you establish
this rule, you won't forget and hold your breath,
and overexpansion will never occur.
2. COME UP AT A RATE OF 18 METERS PER
MINUTE OR LESS. This allows the gas dis-
solved in your body under pressure to come
out of solution safely and also prevents vertigo
from fast ascents. Always make a precaution-
ary decompression stop at a depth of five me-
ters.
3. NEVER ESCAPE TO THE SURFACE. Panic
is the diver's worst enemy.
4. STOP. THINK, THEN ACT. Always maintain
control.
5. PACE YOURSELF. KNOW YOUR LIMITA-
TIONS. A DIVER SHOULD ALWAYS BE
ABLE TO REST AND RELAX IN THE
WATER. Proper use of the buoyancy vest will
allow you to rest on the surface and maintain
control under water. A diver who becomes fa-
tigued in the water is a danger to himself and
his buddy.
6. NEVER DIVE WITH A COLD. Avoid alcoholic
beverages but drink plenty of water. Get a
good night's sleep and refrain from strenuous
physical activities on the day you dive. Dive
conservatively if you are overweight or more
than 45 years of age. Make fewer dives the
last two days before flying and no dives at all
during the final 24 hours.
7. PLAN YOUR DIVE. Know your starting point,
your diving area, and your exit areas. DIVE
YOUR PLAN
8. NEVER EXCEED THE SAFE SPORT DIV-
ING LIMIT OF 30 METERS. Make your first
dive the deepest of the day.
9. All equipment must be equipped with QUICK
RELEASES.
10 WEAR ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTH-
ING AGAINST SUN AND CORAL.
Copyrighted material
SPORTS AND RECREATION 75
er outer islands. The beach snorkeling off Viti
Levu and Vanua Levu is usually poor, and it's a
complete waste of time around Nadi, Lautoka,
Pacific Harbor, Suva, and Labasa. The snorkel-
ing along the Coral Coast is fair, but only at high
tide and even then you must take care with cur-
rents in the channels. Around Savusavu sharp
rocks make it hard to get into the water at all
(and the top beaches are private). On the other
hand, you'll have no trouble finding glorious reefs
in the Mamanuca Group, the Yasawas, off
Nananu-i-Ra, Kadavu, Ono, and Taveuni, and at
the small resort islands near Ovalau.
Be careful, however, and know the dangers.
Practice snorkeling in the shallow water; don't
head into deep water until you're sure you've
got the hang of it. Breathe easily; don't hyper-
ventilate. When snorkeling on a fringing reef,
beware of deadly currents and undertows in
channels that drain tidal flows. Observe the di-
rection the water is moving before you swim into
it. If you feel yourself being dragged out to sea
through a reef passage, try swimming across
the current rather than against it. If you can't re-
sist the pull at all, it may be better to let your-
self be carried out. Wait till the current diminish-
es, then swim along the outer reef face until you
find somewhere to come back in. Or use your en-
ergy to attract the attention of someone onshore.
Snorkeling along the outer edge of a reef at
the drop-off is thrilling for the variety of fish and
corals, but attempt it only on a very calm day.
Even then it's wise to have someone stand on-
shore or paddle behind you in a canoe to watch
for occasional big waves, which can take you
by surprise and smash you into the rocks. Also,
beware of unperceived currents outside the
reef — you may not get a second chance.
A far better idea is to limit your snorkeling to
the protected inner reef and leave the open wa-
ters to the scuba diver. Yet while scuba diving
quickly absorbs large amounts of money, snor-
keling is free and you can do it as often as you
like. You'll encounter the brightest colors in shal-
low waters anyway as lower than six meters the
colors blue out as short wavelengths are lost.
By diving with a scuba tank, you trade off the
chance to observe shallow water species in
order to gain access to the often larger deep
water species. The best solution is to do a bit
of both. In any case, avoid touching the reef or
any of its creatures as the contact can be very
harmful to both you and the reef. Take only pic-
tures and leave only bubbles.
Surfing
A growing number of surfing camps are off
southern and western Viti Levu. The most fa-
mous is Tavarua Island in the Mamanuca Group,
accessible only to American surfers on prepack-
aged tours from the States. Other mortals can
also use speedboats from Seashell Cove Re-
sort to surf nearby reef breaks at far less ex-
pense, or try to get a booking at the top-end surf
resort on Namotu Island right next to Tavarua.
Beach break surfing is possible at Club Masa
near Sigatoka, and budget surfing camps have
been built on Yanuca and Kadavu islands. In
April 2000 a new surfing resort opened at Nagi-
gia Island just off west Kadavu, and Batiluva
Beach on Yanuca is very accessible. Surfing is
the main activity at the Waidroka Bay Resort on
the Coral Coast. Few of Fiji's waves are for the
beginner, especially the reef breaks, and of
course, you must bring your own board(s).
There's surf throughout the year, with the best
swells out of the south from March to October.
Fijian clans control the traditional fishing rights
(qoli qoli) on their reefs, and on many islands
they also claim to own the surfing rights. This
can also apply at breaks off uninhabited islands
and even ocean reefs. In past upscale surfing
camps like Tavarua, Marlin Bay, and Namotu
have paid big bucks to try to corner the right to
surf famous waves like Cloudbreak and Frigate,
and they often attempt to keep surfers from rival
resorts away. Although none of this is enshrined
in law, it's wise to keep abreast of the situation.
When surfing in a remote area without facilities
it's essential to present a sevusevu to the local
chief and to be on your best behavior.
Windsurfing
Windsurfing is possible at a much wider range of
locales than surfing, and many upmarket beach
hotels off southern and western Viti Levu in-
clude equipment in their rates. Windsurfing is
possible at most of the Mamanuca resorts, in-
cluding Castaway, Musket Cove, Naitasi Re-
sort. Navini Island, Plantation Island, Tokoriki,
and Treasure Island. Other offshore resorts
around Fiji offering windsurfing are Kaimbu Is-
Copy righted material
76 ON THE ROAD
land, Matana Resort, Naigani Island, Qamea
Beach, Toberua Island, Turtle Island, and Vat-
ulele. Almost all of the surfing camps also offer
windsurfing. For those on a budget, check out the
windsurfing at Nadi's Club Fiji.
Boating
Exciting white-water rafting on the cliff-hug-
ging rapids of the Upper Navua River is offered
by Rivers Fiji at Pacific Harbor. More white-water
rafting is available on the Ba River below Navala.
In central Viti Levu, villagers will pole you through
the Waiqa Gorge on a bamboo raft from Naitau-
voli to Naivucini villages.
In the past, organized ocean kayaking ex-
peditions have been offered among the Yasawa
Islands, around Beqa and Kadavu, and in Vanua
Levu's Natewa Bay (see Getting There, below,
for details of sea kayaking tours). Those who
only want to dabble can hire kayaks at Kadavu,
Taveuni, Vanua Balavu, and Savusavu. Sever-
al upmarket Mamanuca Resorts loan kayaks to
their guests.
Get in some sailing by taking one of the day
cruises by yacht offered from Nadi. Yacht char-
ters are offered at Musket Cove Resort in the
Mamanuca Group.
Hiking
All of the high islands offer hiking possibilities
and many remote villages are linked by well-
usea trans, i ne most important niKe aescriDea in
this book is the two-day Sigatoka River Trek
down the Sigatoka River from Nadarivatu. Le-
vuka makes an excellent base with the trail to
The Peak beginning nght behind the town, and a
challenging cross-island trail to Lovoni is nearby.
More arduous is the all-day climb to Lake Tagi-
maucia on Taveuni. Koroyanitu National Her-
itage Park near Lautoka offers many hiking pos-
sibilities, including the famous Mount Batilamu
Trek. For some outer island hiking, you can walk
right around Nananu-i-Ra in under a day, or
across Waya or Wayasewa. Kadavu provides
more of the same.
Bicycling
If you brought along a bicycle, you'll have several
possibilities. Queens Road around the south-
ern side of Viti Levu is favored by kamikaze dri-
vers, so you're better off following the northerly
Kings Road from Nadi Airport. At Ellington Wharf
near Rakiraki you can board the Vanua Levu
ferry. However, the road from Nabouwalu to
Labasa is long, and the mountain crossing to
Savusavu hard, so to avoid all this, consider
gliding direct from Nadi to Savusavu on the high
speed catamaran Lagilagi. The Hibiscus High-
way east from Savusavu to Buca Bay is undu-
lating and picturesque. At Natuvu you connect
with the barge to Taveuni, one of Fiji's finest is-
lands for cycling. From Taveuni, catch a ship to
Suva and return to Nadi via Kings Road. A side-
trip to Ovalau on the Natovi ferry is highly rec-
ommended, if you have the time.
Golf
Golfers are well catered for in Fiji. The two most
famous courses are the fantastic Denarau Golf
Club, next to the two Sheraton hotels at Nadi,
and the renowned Pacific Harbor Country Club,
one of the finest courses in the Pacific. Many
tourist hotels have golf courses, including the
Mocambo at Nadi; the Fijian Resort Hotel and
Naviti Beach Resort on the south side of Viti
Levu; Naigani Island Resort and The Wakaya
Club in Lomaiviti; and Taveuni Estates on Tave-
uni. More locally oriented are the city golf cours-
es at Nadi Airport, Lautoka, and in Suva, and
the company-run courses near Rakiraki and
Labasa sugar mills and at the Vatukuola gold
mine, all built to serve former expatriate staffs. All
are open to the public, and only the Sheraton
course could be considered expensive.
Team Sports
The soccer season in Fiji is from February to
November, while rugby is played almost year-
round. The main rugby season is from June to
November when there are 15 players on each
side. From November to March rugby is played
as "sevens" with seven team members to a side.
(The Fijians are champion sevens players, "wild,
intuitive, and artistic," and in 1997 they defeated
South Africa to take the Rugby World Cup Sev-
ens in Hong Kong.) Rugby is played only by Fi-
jians, while soccer teams are both Fijian and
Indo-Fijian. Cricket is played from November to
March, mostly in rural areas. Lawn bowling is
also popular. Saturday is the big day for team
sports (only soccer and lawn bowling are prac-
ticed on Sunday).
Copyrighted material
ENTERTAINMENT 77
ENTERTAINMENT
It's cheap to go to the movies in towns such as
Labasa, Lautoka, Ba, Nadi, Nausori. and Suva,
if a repertoire of romance, horror, and adven-
ture is to your liking (only in Suva can you see the
latest Hollywood films). These same towns have
local nightclubs where you can enjoy as much
drinking and dancing as you like without spend-
ing an arm and a leg. When there's live music, a
cover charge is collected.
A South Pacific institution widespread in Fiji is
the old colonial clubs that offer inexpensive beer
in safe, friendly surroundings. Such clubs are
found in Labasa, Lautoka, Levuka. Nadi,
Savusavu, Sigatoka, Suva, Taveuni, and Tavua,
and although they're all private clubs with Mem-
bers Only signs on the door, foreign visitors are
allowed entry (except at the pretentious Union
Club in Suva). Occasionally the bartender will
ask you to sign the guest book or tell you to re-
quest authorization from the club secretary. Many
n.
m
Grasping war clubs, Fijian men perionn a meke.
bars and clubs in Fiji refuse entry to persons
dressed in flip-flops, boots, rugby jerseys, shorts,
tank tops, or T-shirts, and one must remove
one's hat at the door.
Fiji's unique spectacle is the Fijian fire-
walking performed several times a week at
the large hotels along the southwest side of
Viti Levu: Sheraton-Fiji (Wednesday), Fijian
Resort Hotel (Friday), Outrigger Reef Resort
(Friday), The Naviti (Wednesday), Hideaway
Resort (Thursday), the Warwick (Monday and
Friday), and Pacific Harbor (Tuesday and Sat-
urday). A fixed admission price is charged but
it's well worth going at least once. For more in-
formation on firewalking, see Customs in the
Introduction. The same hotels that present fire-
walking usually stage a Fijian meke (described
below) on an alternate night.
Fijian Dancing (Meke)
The term meke describes the combination of
dance, song, and theater performed at feasts
and on special occasions. Brandishing spears,
their faces painted with charcoal, the men wear
frangipani leis and skirts of shredded leaves.
The war club dance reenacts heroic events of the
past. Both men and women perform the vaka-
malolo, a sitting dance, while the seasea is
danced by women flourishing fans. The tralala, in
which visitors may be asked to join, is a simple
two-step shuffle danced side-by-side (earty mis-
sionaries forbade the Fijians from dancing face-
to-face). As elsewhere in the Pacific the dances
tell a story, though the music now is strongly in-
fluenced by Christian hymns and contemporary
pop. Less sensual than Polynesian dancing, the
rousing Fijian dancing evokes the country's vio-
lent past. Fijian meke are often part of a magiti or
feast performed at hotels. The Dance Theater of
Fiji at Pacific Harbor is well regarded.
ed material
78 ON THE ROAD
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
Public holidays in Fiji include New Year's Day
(January 1), National Youth Day (a Friday in
Febuary or March), Good Friday and Easter
Monday (March/April), Ratu Sukuna Day (a Mon-
day around May 29), Queen Elizabeth's Birthday
(a Monday around June 14), Prophet Mo-
hammed's Birthday (anytime from June to De-
cember). Constitution Day (a Monday around
July 27), Fiji Day (a Monday around October
10), Diwali (October or November), and Christ-
mas Days (December 25 and 26).
Check with the Fiji Visitors Bureau to see if any
festivals are scheduled during your visit. The best
known are the Bula Festival in Nadi (July), the Hi-
biscus Festival in Suva (August), the Sugar Fes-
tival in Lautoka (September), and the Back to Le-
vuka Festival (early October). Around the end of
June there's the President's Cup Yacht Series at
Nadi. Before Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights,
Hindus clean their homes, then light lamps or can-
dles to mark the arrival of spring. Fruit and sweets
are offered to Lakshmi, goddess of wealth. Holi is
an Indian spring festival in February or March.
The International Triathalon at Nadi is in May.
One of the main sporting events of the year is the
International Bula Marathon held in June. The
main event involves a 42-km run from Lautoka to
the Sheraton at Nadi. The 12th South Pacific
Games, the region's major sporting event, will be
in Fiji in 2003.
Total Event Co. (Private Mail Bag, Suva; tel.
314-766, fax 303-748, email: totalevent@fm96.
com.fj), owned by Communications Fiji Ltd., or-
ganizes trade shows, concerts, product launches,
gala dinners, theme functions, sporting events,
opening ceremonies, etc.
When to Go
Compared to parts of North America and Eu-
rope, the seasonal climatic variations in Fiji are
not extreme. There's a hotter, more humid sea-
son from November to April, and a cooler, drier
time from May to October. Hurricanes occur dur-
ing the "rainy" season but they only last a few
days a year. The sun sets around 1800 year-
round, and there aren't periods when the days
are shorter or longer.
Seasonal differences in airfares are often
more influential in deciding when to go. On Air
New Zealand flights from North America the low
season is mid-April to August, the prime time in
Fiji. Christmas is busy but in February and March
many hotels stand half empty and special dis-
count rates are on offer. In short, there isn't really
any one season which is the "best" time to go,
and every season has its advantages.
ARTS AND CRAFTS
The traditional art of Fiji is closely related to that
of Tonga. Fijian canoes, too, were patterned
after the more advanced Polynesian type, al-
though the Fijians were timid sailors. War clubs,
food bowls, tanoas (kava bowls), eating uten-
sils, clay pots, and tapa cloth (masi) are consid-
ered Fiji's finest artifacts.
There are two kinds of woodcarvings: the
ones made from vesi (Intsia bijuga) — ironwood in
English— or nawanawa (Cordia subcordata)
wood are superior to those of the lighter, highly
breakable vau (Hibiscus tiliaceus). In times past
it often took years to make a Fijian war club, as
the carving was done in the living tree and left to
grow into ttie desired shape. The top tanoas are
carved in the Lau Group.
Many crafts are alive and well, but some Fi-
jians also carve "tikis" or mock New Guinea masks
smeared with black shoe polish to look like ebony
for sale to tourists. Also avoid crafts made from en-
dangered species such as sea turtles (tortoise
shell) and marine mammals (whales' teeth, etc.).
Prohibited entry into most countries, these will be
confiscated by customs if found.
Pottery Making
Fijian pottery making is unique in that it is a
Melanesian art form. The Polynesians forgot how
Copyrighted material
ARTS AND CRAFTS 79
to make pottery thousands of years ago. Today
the main center for pottery making in Fiji is the
Sigatoka Valley on Viti Levu. Here, the women
shape clay by pressing a wooden paddle against
a rounded stone held inside the future pot. The
potter's wheel was unknown in the Pacific.
A saucerlike section forms the bottom; the
sides are built up using slabs of clay, or coils
and strips. These are welded and battered to
shape. When the form is ready the pot is dried in-
side the house for a few days, then heated over
an open fire for about an hour. Resin from the
gum of the dakua (kauri) tree is rubbed on the
outside while the pot is still hot. This adds a var-
nish that brings out the color of the clay and im-
proves the pot's water-holding ability.
This pottery is extremely fragile, which ac-
counts for the quantity of potsherds found on
ancient village sites. Smaller, less breakable
pottery products such as ashtrays are now made
for sale to visitors.
Weaving
Woven articles are the most widespread handi-
crafts. Pandanus fiber is the most common, but
coconut leaf and husk, vine tendril, banana stem,
tree and shrub bark, the stems and leaves of
water weeds, and the skin of the sago palm leaf
are all used. On some islands the fibers are
passed through a fire, boiled, then bleached in the
sun. Vegetable dyes of very lovely mellow tones
are sometimes used, but gaudier store dyes are
much more prevalent. Shells are occasionally
utilized to cut, curl, or make the fibers pliable.
Tapa Cloth
This is Fiji's most characteristic traditional prod-
uct. Tapa is light, portable, and inexpensive, and
a piece makes an excellent souvenir to brighten
up a room back home. It's made by the women
on Vatulele Island off Viti Levu and on certain is-
lands of the Lau Group.
To produce tapa. the inner, water-soaked bark
of the paper mulberry (Broussonetia papyrifera)
is stripped from the tree and steeped in water.
Then it's scraped with shells and pounded into a
thin sheet with wooden mallets. Four of these
sheets are applied one over another and pound-
ed together, then left to dry in the sun.
While Tongan tapa is decorated by holding
a relief pattern under the tapa and overpainting
the lines, Fijian tapa (masi kesa) is distinctive
for its rhythmic geometric designs applied with
stencils made from green pandanus and ba-
nana leaves. The stain is rubbed on in the same
manner in which temple rubbings are made from
a stone inscription.
The only colors used are red, from red clay,
and a black pigment obtained by burning can-
dlenuts. Both powders are mixed with boiled
gums made from scraped roots. Sunlight deep-
ens and sets the colors. Each island group had its
characteristic colors and patterns, ranging from
plantlike paintings to geometric designs. Sheets
of tapa feel like felt when finished. On some is-
lands tapa is still used for clothing, bedding, and
room dividers, and as ceremonial red carpets.
Tablecloths, bedcovers, place mats, and wall
hangings of tapa make handsome souvenirs.
80 ON THE ROAD
SHOPPING
Most large shops in Fiji close at 1300 on Satur-
day, but smaller grocery stores are often open
on Sunday. After the 1987 military coups most
commercial business was suspended on Sun-
day, but these restrictions were dropped in 1996
and you'll find many restaurants and bars now
open on Sunday. Indo-Fijians dominate the re-
tail trade. If you're buying from an Indo-Fijian
merchant, always bargain hard and consider
all sales final. Indigenous Fijians usually begin by
asking a much lower starting price, in which
case bargaining isn't so important.
Fiji's "duty-free" shops such as Prouds or Tap-
poo are not really duty-free, as all goods are sub-
ject to various fiscal duties plus the 10 percent
value-added tax. Bargaining is the order of the
day, but to be frank. Americans can usually buy
most of the Japanese electronics sold "duty-free"
in Fiji cheaper in the States, where more recent
models are available. If you do buy something, get
an itemized receipt and international guarantee,
and watch that they don't switch packages and
unload a demo on you. Once purchased, items
cannot be returned, so don't let yourself be talked
into anything. Camera film is inexpensive, how-
ever, and the selection is good— stock up.
If you'd like to do some shopping in Fiji, locally
made handicrafts such as tapa cloth, mats, kava
bowls, war clubs, woodcarvings. etc., are a much
better investment (see Arts and Crafts, above).
The four-pronged cannibal forks available every-
where make unique souvenirs, but avoid the
masks, which are made only for sale to tourists
and have nothing to do with Fiji. If you're spending
serious money for top-quality work, visit the Fiji
Museum or the Government Handicraft Center
in Suva beforehand to see what is authentic.
To learn what's available on the tourist mar-
ket and to become familiar with prices, browse
one of the half-dozen outlets of Jacks Handi-
crafts around Viti Levu. You'll find them in
downtown Nadi, Sigatoka. and Suva. If the
sales person is overenthusiastic and begins
following you around too closely, just stop and
say you're only looking today and they'll prob-
ably leave you alone.
You can often purchase your souvenirs di-
rectly from the Fijian producers at markets, etc.
Just beware of aggressive indigenous Fijian
"sword sellers" on the streets of Suva, Nadi,
and Lautoka who peddle fake handicrafts at
high prices, or high-pressure duty-free touts
who may try to pull you into their shops, or self-
appointed guides who offer to help you find the
"best price." If you get the feeling you're being
hustled, walk away.
Grog (kava) is mixed in
a tanoa. such as this
fine example carved
from a single block of
vesi wood. It is said
that Fijians have
yaqona In their veins
instead of blood.
laterial
ACCOMMODATIONS 81
ACCOMMODATIONS
With Moon Handbooks: Fiji you're guaranteed
a good, inexpensive place to stay on almost
every island. Nearly every hotel in the country
is included herein, not just a selection. We con-
sistently do this to give you a solid second refer-
ence in case your travel agent or someone else
recommends a certain place. To allow you the
widest possible cnoice, an pnce categones are in-
cluded, and throughout we've tried to spotlight
properties that offer value for money. If you think
we're wrong or you were badly treated, be sure to
send us a written complaint. Equally important, let
us know when you agree with what's here or if
you think a place deserves a better review. Your
letter will be taken seriously!
We don't solicit freebies from the hotel chains;
our only income derives from the price you paid
for this book. So we don't mind telling you that,
as usual, some of the luxury hotels are just not
worth the exorbitant prices they charge. Many
simply re-create Hawaii at twice the cost. Even
worse, they tend to isolate you in a Ameri-
can/Australian environment, away from the Fiji
you came to experience. The luxury hotels may
be worth visiting as sightseeing attractions, wa-
tering holes, or sources of entertainment, but
unless you're a millionaire, sleep elsewhere.
Plenty of middle-level hotels charge about half
what the top-end places ask, while providing
adequate comfort.
Dormitory, "bunkroom." or backpacker ac-
commodations are available on all of the main is-
lands, with communal cooking facilities usually
provided. If you're traveling alone, these are ex-
cellent since they're just the place to meet other
travelers. Couples can usually get a double room
for a price only slightly above two dorm beds.
For the most part, the dormitories are safe and
congenial for those who don't mind sacrificing
their privacy to save money.
Needless to say. always ask the price of your
accommodations before accepting them. In
cases where there's a local and a tourist price,
you'll always pay the higher tariff if you don't
check beforehand. Asking first gives you the op-
portunity to bargain if someone quotes an ab-
surdly high starting price. Otherwise, hotel prices
are usually fixed and bargaining isn't the nor-
mal way to go.
Be aware that some of the low-budget places
included in this book are a lot more basic than
what is sometimes referred to as "budget" ac-
commodations in the United States. The stan-
dards of cleanliness in the common bathrooms
may be lower than you expected, the furnish-
ings very basic, the beds uncomfortable, linens
and towels skimpy, housekeeping nonexistent,
and window screens lacking, but ask yourself,
where in the U.S. are you going to find a room for
a similar price? Luckily, good medium-priced
accommodations are usually available for those
unwilling to put up with Spartan conditions.
When picking a hotel, keep in mind that al-
though a thatched bungalow is cooler and infi-
nitely more attractive than a concrete box, it's
also more likely to have insect problems. If in
doubt check the window screens and carry mos-
quito coils and repellent. Hopefully there'll be a
resident lizard or two to feed on the bugs. Al-
ways turn on a light before getting out of bed to
use the facilities at night, as even the finest hotels
in the tropics have cockroaches.
A room with cooking facilities can save you a
lot on restaurant meals, and some moderately
priced establishments have weekly rates. If you
have to choose a meal plan, take only break-
fast and dinner (Modified American Plan or MAP)
ACCOMMODATION
PRICE RANGES
Throughout this handbook, accommodations are
grouped in the price categories that follow based
on the price of a double room. The conversion
rate used is indicated below, and of course, cur-
rency fluctuations and inflation can lead to slight
variations.
Under US$25 (Under FS56.25)
USS25-50 (FS56.25-1 1 2.50)
US$50-1 00 (FS1 1 2.50-225.00)
US$1 00-1 50 (FS225.00-337.50)
US$150 and up (F$337.50 and up)
Copyrighted material
82 ON THE ROAD
and have fruit for lunch. As you check into your
room, note the nearest fire exits. And don't au-
tomatically accept the first room offered; if you're
paying good money look at several, then choose.
A 10 percent government tax is added to all
accommodations prices. Most hotels include the
tax in their quoted rates, but some don't. You
can often tell whether tax is included by looking
at the amount: if it's F$33 tax is probably includ-
ed, whereas if it's F$30 it may not be. When
things are slow, specials are offered and some
prices become negotiable, and occasionally
you'll pay less than the prices quoted in this
book. This is most likely to happen in February
and March, the lowest tourist season. Other-
wise, prices are usually the same year-round
without seasonal variations.
Reserving Ahead
Booking accommodations in advance usually
works to your disadvantage as full-service trav-
el agents will begin by trying to sell you their
most expensive properties (which pay them the
highest commissions) and work down from there.
The quite adequate middle and budget places in-
cluded in this handbook often aren't on their
screens, or are sold at highly inflated prices.
Few hotels charging under US$80 have the ac-
counting wherewithal to process agency com-
missions. Herein we provide the rates for direct
local bookings, and if you book through a travel
agent abroad you could end up paying consid-
eraoiy more as multiple commissions are tacked
on. Thus we suggest you avoid making any hotel
reservations at all before arriving in Fiji (unless
you're coming for a major event).
There aren't many islands where it's to your
advantage to book ahead in the medium to lower
price range, but you can often obtain substantial
discounts at the upscale hotels by including them
as part of a package tour. If you intend to spend
most of your time at a specific first-class hotel,
you'll benefit from bulk rates by taking a package
tour instead of paying the higher "rack rate" the
hotels charge to individuals who just walk in off
the street. Call up some of the agents listed
herein in Getting There and check their web-
sites. FijiBedBank.com at www.fijibedbank.com
books rooms online via a secure server, though
only wholesalers and travel agents can use the
service. TravelMaxia.com at www.travelmax-
ia.com provides information that allows you to
make direct contact with the resorts. The site
Pacificnavigator.com is similar.
Accommodation Categories
Fiji offers a wide variety of places to stay, from
low-budget to world-class. Standard interna-
tional hotels are found in Nadi and Suva, while
many of the upmarket beach resorts are on small
islands in the Mamanuca Group off Nadi or along
the Coral Coast on Viti Levu's sunny south side.
The Mamanuca resorts are secluded, with fan-
cooled bure accommodations, while at the Coral
Coast hotels you often get an air-conditioned
room in a main building. The Coral Coast has
more to offer in the way of land tours, shopping,
and entertainment/eating options, while the off-
shore resorts are preferable if you want a rest or
are into water sports. The Coral Coast beaches
are only good at high tide and the reefs are de-
graded, while on the outer islands the reefs are
usually pristine.
In recent years smaller luxury resorts have
multiplied in remote locations, from the guest-ac-
cepting plantations near Savusavu and on Tave-
uni to isolated beach resorts on outlying islands
such as Kaimbu, Kadavu (Matana), Laucala,
Matangi, Beqa, Naigani, Namenalala, Nukubati,
Qamea, Toberua, Turtle, Vatulele, Wakaya, and
Yasawa. Prices at the "boutique" resorts begin at
several hundred dollars a day and rise to four fig-
ures, so some care should be taken in selecting
the right one. A few such as Beqa, Matana, and
Taveuni are marketed almost exclusively to
scuba divers, and Namenalala is a good eco-
tourism choice. If you delight in glamorous so-
cializing with other upscale couples, Turtle and
Vatulele are for you. Families are most welcome
at Beachcomber, Castaway, Cousteau, Malo-
lo, Maravu, Matangi, Naigani, Naviti, Plantation,
Shangri-La's Fijian, Sonaisali, and Toberua, but
children are generally not accepted at all at Kaim-
bu, Lomalagi, Matamanoa, Matana, Namale,
Namotu, Natadola, Nukubati, Qamea, Turtle,
Vatulele, Wadigi, Wakaya, and Yasawa. The
very wealthy will feel at home on Kaimbu, Lau-
cala, and Wakaya, whereas many of the Ma-
manuca resorts are designed for larger num-
bers of guests interested in intensive sporting
and social activities.
The low-budget accommodations are spread
Copyrighted material
ACCOMMODATIONS 83
out, with concentrations in Korotogo, Nadi, Lau-
toka, Levuka, Suva, and Savusavu. and on
Taveuni. Low-cost outer island beach resorts
exist on Caqalai, Kadavu, Leleuvia. Mana,
Nananu-i-Ra, Naviti, Ono, Tavewa. Waya,
Wayasewa, and Yanuca. The largest budget
chain in Fiji is Cathay Hotels with properties in
Suva, Lautoka, and on the Coral Coast (visit
their Fiji For Less website at www.fiji4less.com).
Since September 2000 over a dozen new back-
packer resorts have appeared in the central Ya-
sawas under the auspices of the Nacula Tikina
Tourism Association (www.fijibudget.com), with
the support of millionaire environmentalist
Richard Evanson. All of these cater to a younger
crowd who decide where they'll stay as they go,
and the easiest way to check on the availability of
rooms is to call them up after you get to Fiji.
A few of the cheap hotels in Suva, Lautoka,
and Labasa double as whorehouses, making
them cheap in both senses of the word. At all of
the low-budget hostels, women should exercise
care in the way they deal with the male staff as
we've received complaints about harassment.
Many hotels, both in cities and at the beach,
offer dormitory beds as well as individual rooms.
Most of the dorms are mixed. Women can some-
times request a women-only dorm when things
are slow, but it's usually not guaranteed. Some
city hotels lock their front doors at 2300, so ask
first if you're planning a night on the town. Sev-
eral islands with air service from Suva, including
Koro, Moala, Gau, and Cicia, have no regular
accommodations for visitors at all. so it's best
to know someone who lives there before heading
to these islands.
Camping
Camping facilities (bring your own tent) are
found at backpacker resorts on Kadavu. Leleu-
via, Mana, Ono, Ovalau, Rotuma, Taveuni,
Tavewa, Caqalai. Waya, Wayasewa, and Yanu-
ca Lailai Islands. A few shoestring hostels in
Nadi and Savusavu also allow it, as do Viti Levu
beach resorts like Seashell Cove, The Beac-
house, and the Coral Coast Christian Camp.
On Vanua Levu, you can camp at Mumu Resort
and at Buca Bay.
Elsewhere, get permission before pitching
your tent as all land is owned by someone and
land rights are sensitive issues in Fiji. Some
freelance campers on beaches such as Nata-
dola near Nadi and around Pacific Harbor have
had their possessions stolen, so take care.
In Fijian villages don't ask a Fijian friend for
permission to camp beside his house. Although
he may feel obligated to grant the request of a
guest, you'll be proclaiming to everyone that his
home isn't completely to your liking. If all you
really want is to camp, make that clear from the
start and get approval to do so on a beach or by
a river, but not in the village. A sevusevu should
always be presented in this case. There's really
nowhere to camp totally for free. Never camp
camping. Kadavu
Island: where hotels
don't exist your tent
is your home away
from home
84 ON THE ROAD
under a coconut tree, as falling coconuts can
harm or kill you (actually, coconuts have two
eyes so they only strike the wicked).
Staying in Villages
The most direct way to meet the Fijian people
and learn a little about their culture is to stay in a
village for a couple of nights. A number of hiking
tours offer overnight stays in remote villages,
and it's also possible to arrange it for yourself. If
you befriend someone from an outlying island,
ask them to write you a letter of introduction to
their relatives back in the village. Mail a copy of
it ahead with a polite letter introducing yourself,
then slowly start heading that way.
In places well off the beaten track where there
are no regular tourist accommodations, you could
just show up in a village and ask permission of
the turaga-ni-koro (village herald) to spend the
night. Both Indo-Fijians and native Fijians will
probably spontaneously invite you in to their
homes. The Fijians' innate dignity and kindness
should not be taken for granted, however.
All across the Pacific it's customary to recipro-
cate when someone gives you a gift— if not now,
then sometime in the future. In Fiji this type of
back and forth is called kerekere. Visitors who ac-
cept gifts (such as meals and accommodations)
from islanders and do not reciprocate are under-
mining traditional culture and causing resentment,
often without realizing it. It's sometimes hard to
know how to repay hospitality, but Fijian culture
has a solution: the sevusevu. This can be money,
but it's usually a 500-gram "pyramid" of kava roots
(waka), which can be easily purchased at any Fi-
jian market for about F$15. Sevusevu are more
often performed between families or couples about
to be married, or at births or christenings, but the
custom is certainly a perfect way for visitors to
show their appreciation.
We suggest travelers donate at least F$20
pp per night to village hosts (carry sufficient cash
in small denominations). The waka bundle is
additional, and anyone traveling in remote areas
of Fiji should pack some (take whole roots, not
powdered kava). If you give the money up front
together with the waka as a sevusevu, they'll
know you're not a freeloader and you'll get VIP
treatment, though in all cases it's absolutely es-
sential to contribute something.
The sevusevu should be placed before (not
handed to) the turaga-ni-koro or village herald so
he can accept or refuse. If he accepts (by touch-
ing the package), your welcome is confirmed
and you may spend the night in the village. It's
also nice to give some money to the lady of the
house upon departure, with your thanks. Just
say it's your goodbye sevusevu and watch the
smile. A Fijian may refuse the money, but he/she
will not be offended by the offer if it is done prop-
erly. Of course, developing interpersonal rela-
tionships with your hosts is more important than
money, and mere cash or gifts is no substitute for
making friends.
If you're headed for a remote outer island
without hotels or resorts you could also take
some gifts along, such as lengths of material,
T-shirts, badges, pins, knitting needles, hats,
acoustic guitar strings, school books, colored
pens, toys, playing cards, fishhooks, line, or
lures, or a big jar of instant coffee. Keep in mind,
however, that Seventh-Day Adventists are for-
bidden to have coffee, cigarettes, or kava, so
you might ask if there are any SDAs around in
order to avoid embarrassment. Uncontroversial
food items to donate include sugar, flour, rice,
corned beef, matches, chewing gum, peanuts,
and biscuits. One thing not to take is alcohol,
which is always sure to offend somebody.
Once you're staying with one family avoid
moving to the home of another family in the
same village as this would probably be seen as
a slight to the first. Be wary of readily accepting
invitations to meals with villagers other than your
hosts as the offer may only be meant as a cour-
tesy. Don't overly admire any of the possessions
of your hosts or they may feel obligated to give
them to you. If you're forced to accept some-
thing you know you cannot take, ask them to
keep it there for you in trust.
When choosing your traveling companions
for a trip that involves staying in Fijian villages,
make sure you agree on these things before
you set out. Otherwise you could end up subsi-
dizing somebody else's trip, or worse, have to
stand by and watch the Fijian villagers subsi-
dize it. Never arrive in a village on a Sunday,
and don't overstay your welcome.
We recently received this comment from a
Norwegian reader named Jorgen Langballe:
We were invited to the chiefly village of
Nukubalaini, where we were introduced to
the big chief of Savusavu and we L.. to do die
Copyrighted material
ACCOMMODATIONS 85
kava offering, keeping our heads low. I read
about this in your book and thought it was an
out of date fashion to bring kava around to
gitfe the chiefs when you travel, but the forms
here are quite serious, as we also experienced
at a ceremony in town today when the presi-
dent of Fiji was visiting on Coconut Day. No
joke! He got a whole kava tree!
VILLAGE ETIQUETTE IN FIJI
• It's a Fijian custom to smile when you meet a
stranger and say something like "Good morning."
"Bula, "or at least "Hello." Of course, you needn't
do this in large towns, but you should almost every-
where else. If you meet someone you know, stop
for a moment to exchange a few words As you
shake hands, tell the person your name.
• Fijian villages are prrvate property and you should
only enter after you've been welcomed. Of course
it's okay to continue along a road that passes
through a village, but make contact before leaving
the road. Wait until someone greets you, then say
you wish to be taken to the turaga-ni-koro (village
herald). This village spokesperson will accept your
sevusevu of kava roots and grant you permission
to look around unless something important is hap-
pening, such as a funeral, celebration, feast, or
church service (avoid arriving on a Sunday). A
villager will be assigned to act as your guide and
host. Yet even after this, you should still ask before
taking pictures of individuals or inside buildings.
• If you wish to surf off a village, picnic on their
beach, or fish in their lagoon, you should also ask
permission. You'll almost always be made most
welcome and granted any favors you request if
you present a sevusevu to the village herald or
chief. If you approach the Fijians with respect,
you're sure to be treated the same way in return.
• Take off your footwear before entering a bure and
stoop as you walk around inside. Fijian villagers
consider it offensive to walk in front of a person
seated on the floor (pass behind) or to fail to say
tulou (excuse me) as you go by. Clap three times
when you join people already seated on mats on
the floor. Shake hands with your hosts.
• In a bure. men should sit cross-legged, women
with their legs to the side. Sitting with your legs
stretched out in front or with your knees up during
presentations is disrespectful. After a meal or dur-
ing informal kava drinking, you can stretch your
legs out, but never point them at the chief or the
kava bowl. Don't sit in doorways or put your hand
on another's head.
• If offered kava (yaqona), clap once, take the bowl,
say bula, and drink it all in one gulp. Then hand
the bowl back to the same person and clap three
times saying vinaka (thanks). Don't stand up dur-
ing a sevusevu to village elders— remain seated.
When you give a gift hold it out with both hands,
not one hand. Otherwise just place the bundle
on the floor before them.
• It's good manners to take off your hat while walk-
ing through a village, where only the chief is per-
mitted to wear a hat. Some villagers also object to
sunglasses. Objects such as backpacks, hand-
bags, and cameras should be carried in your
hands rather than slung over your shoulders.
• Dress modestly in the village, which basically
means a shirt for men and covered shoulders and
thighs for women. Short shorts are not the best at-
tire for men or women (long shorts okay), and
bikinis are analogous to nudity (this also applies
when swimming in a village river, pool, or beach).
Wrapping a sulu around you will suffice.
• Don't point at people in villages. Do you notice
how the Fijians rarely shout? In Fiji, raising your
voice is a sign of anger. Don't openly admire a
possession of someone as they may feel oblig-
ated to give it to you. If sharing a meal, wait until
grace has been said before eating. Alcohol is usu-
ally forbidden in villages.
• Fijian children are very well behaved, and there's
no running or shouting as you arrive in a village,
and they'll leave you alone if you wish. The Fi-
jians love children, so don't hesitate to bring your
own. You'll never have to worry about finding a
baby-sitter. Just make sure your children under-
stand the importance of being on their best be-
havior in the village.
Copyrighted material
86 ON THE ROAD
Village Life
As you approach a Fijian village, people will usu-
ally want to be helpful and will direct or accom-
pany you to the person or place you seek. It's
customary to present a sevusevulo the turaga-ni-
koro if you'd like to be shown around. If you show
genuine interest in something and ask to see how
it is done, you'll usually be treated with respect
and asked if there's anything else you'd like to
know. Initially, Fijians may hesitate to welcome
you into their homes because they may fear you
will not wish to sit on a mat and eat native foods
with your fingers. Once you show them this isn't
true, you'll receive the full hospitality treatment.
Consider participating in the daily activities of
the family, such as weaving, cooking, gardening,
and fishing. Your hosts will probably try to dis-
suade you from "working," but if you persist you'll
become accepted. Staying in a village is defi-
nitely not for everyone. Many houses contain
no electricity, running water, toilet, furniture, etc.,
and only native food will be available. Water and
your left hand serve as toilet paper.
You should also expect to sacrifice most of
your privacy, to stay up late drinking grog, and to
sit in the house and socialize when you could
be out exploring. On Sunday you'll have to stay
put the whole day. The constant attention and
lack of sanitary conditions may become tire-
some, but it would be considered rude to at-
tempt to be alone or refuse the food or grog.
With the proliferation of backpackers resorts,
staying in villages has become much less a part
of visits to the remoter parts of Fiji than it was a
decade ago, and relatively few travelers do it
today. The Australian guidebooks also discour-
age travelers from going off the beaten track.
However, so long as you're prepared to accept
all of the above and know beforehand that this is
not a cheap way to travel, a couple of nights in
an outlying village could easily be the highlight of
your trip.
FOOD AND DRINK
Unlike some other South Pacific destinations,
Fiji has many good, inexpensive eateries. The
ubiquitous Chinese restaurants are probably
your best bet for dinner and you can almost al-
ways get alcohol with the meal. At lunchtime
look for an Indian place. The Indian restaurants
are lifesavers for vegetarians, as all too often a
vegetarian meal elsewhere is just the same thing
with the meat removed.
Many restaurants are closed on Sunday, and
a 10 percent tax is added to the bill at some up-
market restaurants, although it's usually includ-
ed in the menu price. The service at restaurants
is occasionally slow. Fijians have their own pace,
FOOD AND DRINK 87
FIJIAN AND INDIAN SPECIALTIES
Traditional Fijian food is usually steamed or boiled in-
stead of fned, and dishes such as baked fish (ika) in
coconut cream (lolo) with cassava (tapioca), taro
(dalo), breadfruit (uto). and sweet potato (kumala)
take a long time to prepare and must be served
fresh, which makes it difficult to offer them in restau-
rants. Many resorts bake fish, pork, and root veg-
etables wrapped in banana leaves in a lovo (earth
oven) at least once a week. Don't pass up an op-
portunity to try durvka (young sugar cane) or vakato-
lo (fish and prawns), both baked in lolo. Kokoda is an
appetizing dish made of diced raw fish marinated
in coconut cream and lime juice, while smoked oc-
topus is kuita. Taro leaves are used to make a
spinach called palusami (often stuffed with corned
beef), which is known as rourou when soaked in
coconut cream. Taro stems are cut into a marinated
salad called baba. Seasoned chicken (toa) is
wrapped and steamed in banana leaves to produce
and trying to make them do things more quickly
is often counterproductive. Their charm and the
friendly personal attention you receive more than
compensate.
The Hot Bread Kitchen chain of bakeries
around Fiji serves fresh fruit loaves, cheese and
onion loaves, muffins, and other assorted breads.
The Morris Hedstrom supermarket chain is about
the cheapest, and many have milk bars with ice
cream and sweets.
The famous Fiji Bitter beer is brewed in Suva
by Australian-owned Carlton Brewery Ltd., part
of the famous Fosters Brewing Group. Another
Carlton-owned company, South Pacific Distil-
leries Ltd., produces brandy, gin, rum, vodka,
and whisky under a variety of brand names at
their plant in Lautoka. Beer and other alcohol is
only available at supermarkets in Fiji weekdays
0800-1800, Saturday 0800-1300. By law li-
censed restaurants can only serve alcohol to
those who order meals. Drinking alcoholic bev-
erages on the street is prohibited. Unlike Aus-
tralia and New Zealand, it's not customary to
bring your own (BYO) booze into restaurants.
More and more beverage manufacturers are
marketing their products in environmentally un-
friendly plastic bottles. The Greenpeace Pacific
Campaign suggests that visitors purchase drinks
in returnable glass bottles whenever possible.
kovu. Miti is a sauce made of coconut cream, or-
anges, and chilies.
Indian dishes are spicy, often curries with rice
and dhal (lentil soup), but orthodox Hindus don't
consume beef and Muslims forgo pork. Instead of
bread Indians eat roti, a flat, tortilla-like pancake
also called a chapati. Pun are small, deep-fried rotis.
Baked in a stone oven rofr becomes naan, a Punjabi
specialty similar to pita bread. Patau is a main plate
of rice and vegetables always including peas.
Samosas are lumps of potato and other vegetables
wrapped in dough and deep-fned. Pakoras are deep-
fried chunks of dough spiced with chili and often
served with a pickle chutney. Yogurt mixed with
water makes a refreshing drink called lassi. If you
have the chance, try South Indian vegetarian dishes
like iddili (little white rice cakes served with dhat)
and masala dosai (a rice potato-filled pancake served
with a watery curry sauce called sambar).
Traditional Foods
The traditional diet of the Fijians consists of root
crops and fruit, plus lagoon fish and the occa-
sional pig. The vegetables include taro, yams,
cassava (manioc), breadfruit, and sweet pota-
toes. The sweet potato (kumala) is an anomaly —
it's the only Pacific food plant with a South Amer-
ican origin. How it got to the islands is not known.
Taro is an elephant-eared plant cultivated in
freshwater swamps. Although yams are consid-
ered a prestige food, they're not as nutritious as
breadfruit and taro. Yams can grow up to three
meters long and weigh hundreds of kilos. Pa-
paya (pawpaw) is nourishing: a third of a cup
contains as much vitamin C as 18 apples. To
ripen a green papaya overnight, puncture it a
few times with a knife. Don't overeat papaya—
unless you need an effective laxative.
The ancient Pacific islanders stopped mak-
ing pottery over a millennium ago and instead de-
veloped an ingenious way of cooking in an un-
derground earth oven known as a lovo. First a
stack of dry coconut husks is burned in a pit.
Once the fire is going well, coral stones are
heaped on top, and when most of the husks
have burnt away the food is wrapped in banana
leaves and placed on the hot stones — fish and
meat below, vegetables above. A whole pig may
be cleaned, then stuffed with banana leaves and
Copyrighted material
88 ON THE ROAD
THE COCONUT PALM
Human life would not be possible on most of the
Pacific's far-flung atolls without this all-purpose tree.
It reaches maturity in eight years, then produces
about 50 nuts a year for 60 years. Aside from the
tree's esthetic value and usefulness in providing
shade, the water of the green coconut provides a re-
freshing drink, and the white meat of the young nut is
a delicious food. The harder meat of more mature
nuts is grated and squeezed, which creates a co-
conut cream that is eaten alone or used in cooking.
The oldest nuts are cracked open and the hard meat
removed then dried to be sold as copra. It takes
about 6.000 coconuts to make a ton of copra. Copra
is pressed to extract the oil, which in turn is made into
candles, cosmetics, and soap. Scented with flow-
ers, the oil nurtures the skin.
The juice or sap from the cut flower spathes of the
palm provides toddy, a popular drink: the toddy is dis-
tilled into a spirit called arrack, the whiskey of the Pa-
cific. Otherwise the sap can be boiled to make candy
Millionaire's salad is made by shredding the growth
cut from the heart of the tree. For each salad, a fully
mature tree must be sacrificed.
The nut's hard inner shell can be used as a cup
and makes excellent firewood. Rope, cordage,
brushes, and heavy matting are produced from the
coir fiber of the husk. The smoke from burning husks
hot stones. This cooks the beast from inside out
as well as outside in, and the leaves create
steam. The food is then covered with more
leaves and stones, and after about two and a
half hours everything is cooked.
The lovo feasts staged weekly at many large
hotels around Nadi or on the Coral Coast offer a
is a most effective mosquito repellent. The leaves of
the coconut tree are used to thatch the roofs of the is-
landers' cottages or are woven into baskets, mats,
and fans. The trunk provides timber for building and
furniture. Actually, these are only the common uses:
there are many others as well.
Every part of the coconut tree (Cocus nucifera)
can be used.
good opportunity to taste authentic Fijian food
and see traditional dancing. These feasts are
usually accompanied by a Fijian meke or song
and dance performance in which legends, love
stories, and historical events are told in song
and gesture. Alternatively, firewalking may be
presented.
naterial
TOURIST INFORMATION 89
TOURIST INFORMATION
Information
The government-funded Fiji Visitors Bureau
(P.O. Box 92, Suva; tel. 302-433, fax 300-970,
website: www.bulafiji.com) mails out general
brochures and a list of hotels with current prices
free upon request. In Fiji they have walk-in offices
at Nadi Airport and in Suva. They also maintain
a local toll-free information number at tel. 0800-
721-721.
The Fiji Visitors Bureau sends out a tourism
newsletter called Bula News Update over email
twice a month. To subscribe, simply send a blank
email to bulanews@fijifvb.gov.fj with "Subscribe"
in the subject heading and your email address will
be automatically added to the distribution list. To
be removed from the list, repeat the process with
"Unsubscribe" in the subject heading.
Book buyers should browse the two book cen-
ters at the University of the South Pacific in Suva,
as only these have a wide selection of titles.
Travel Agencies
If you like the security of advance reservations but
aren't interested in joining a regular packaged
tour, several local companies specialize in book-
ing cruises, hotel rooms, airport transfers, sight-
seeing tours, rental cars, etc. Only the Blue La-
goon and Captain Cook mini-cruises mentioned
in Getting There really need to be booked from
abroad; upon arrival you'll have dozens of ho-
tels and resorts competing for your business at
prices much lower than your friendly travel agent
back home will charge. So rather than risk being
exiled to one of Fiji's most expensive resorts by
some agent thinking mostly about their commis-
sion, wait to make most of your ground arrange-
ments upon arrival at Nadi Airport.
Fiji's largest in-bound tour operator is Rosie
The Travel Service (P.O. Box 9268. Nadi Air-
port; tel. 722-935, fax 722-607, website:
www.pacificnavigator.com), with a 24-hour of-
fice in the arrivals arcade at Nadi Airport and 14
branches around Viti Levu. This handbook will
give you an idea what's out there, and upon ar-
rival Rosie or one of the other agents at Nadi
Airport will be able to explain current prices and
check availability. In Australia advance book-
ings can be made through Rosie The Travel
Service (Suite 505. East Towers, 9 Bronte Rd.,
Bondi Junction, Sydney, NSW 2022, Australia;
tel. 61-2/9889-3666. fax 61-2/9369-1 129, web-
site: www.citysearch.com.au/syd/rosietours).
TOURIST OFFICES
Fiji Visitors Bureau. GPO P.O. Box 92. Suva,
Fiji Islands (tel. 679/302-433, fax 679/300-
970; website: www.bulafiji.com; email:
infodesk@fijifvb.gov.fj)
Fiji Visitors Bureau. P.O. Box 9217, Nadi
Airport, Fiji Islands (tel. 679/722-433. fax
679/720-141, email: fvbnadi@is.com.fj)
Fiji Visitors Bureau, Suite 220. 5777 West
Century Blvd.. Los Angeles, CA 90045,
U.S.A. (tel. 310/568-1616 or 800/932-3454,
fax 310/670-2318; website: www.bulafiji-
amencas.com: email: infodesk® bulafiji-
americas.com)
Fiji Visitors Bureau, Level 12. St. Martin's
Tower, 31 Market St.. Sydney. NSW 2000,
Australia (tel. 61-2/9264-3399. fax 61-
2/9264-3060)
Fiji Visitors Bureau. P.O. Box 1 179. Auckland.
New Zealand (tel. 64-9/373-2134, fax 64-
9/309-4720; website: www.bulafiji.co.nz:
email: info@bulafiji.co.nz)
Fiji Visitors Bureau, 14th floor, NOA Bldg., 3-5,
2-Chome, Azabudai, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106,
Japan (tel. 81-3/3587-2038, fax 81-3/3587-
2563; website: www.tabi.or.jp/fvb)
South Pacific Tourism Organization, 48
Glentham Road, Barnes, London SW13 9JJ,
United Kingdom (tel. 44-20/8741-5566, fax
44-20/8741-6107, email:
ajbalfour@aol.com)
South Pacific Tourism Organization,
Petersburger Strasse 94, D-10247 Berlin.
Germany (tel. 49-30/4225-6026, fax 49-
30/4225-6287, email:
1 00762.361 4 @ compuserve.com)
Copyrighted material
90 ON THE ROAD
This locally owned business has provided effi-
cient, personalized service since 1974.
Rosie's main competitor is the United Touring
Company (tel. 722-81 1 ) with an office near the
Fiji Visitors Bureau at the airport and tour desks
at many Nadi and Coral Coast hotels. They are
very reliable. Numerous other private travel agen-
cies have offices at Nadi Airport and in town,
many of them oriented toward backpackers or
budget travelers. These are discussed in this
book's Nadi chapter. Also check the Bula Fiji
Starter Packs described in Getting There.
VISAS AND OFFICIALDOM
Everyone needs a passport valid at least three
months beyond the date of entry. No visa is re-
quired of visitors from 101 countries (including
Western Europe, North America, Japan, Israel,
and most Commonwealth countries) for stays of
four months. Tickets to leave Fiji are officially re-
quired but usually not checked. The vaccination
against yellow fever or cholera only applies if
you're arriving directly from an infected area, such
as the Amazon jungles or the banks of the Ganges
River (no vaccinations necessary if you're arriving
from North America, New Zealand, or Australia).
Fiji has diplomatic missions in Brussels, Can-
berra, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, London, New
York, Ottawa, Port Moresby, Seoul, Taipei,
Tokyo, Washington, Wellington, and Vancou-
ver. The main ones are listed here.
Extensions of stay are given out by the im-
migration offices at Lautoka, Nadi Airport,
Savusavu. and Suva. You must apply before
your current permit expires. After the first four
months, you can obtain another two months to
increase your total stay to six months by pay-
ing a F$55 fee. Bring your passport, onward or
return ticket, and proof of sufficient funds. After
six months you must leave and stay away at
least four days, after which you can return and
start on another four months.
Work permits are difficult to obtain and the
fastest means of obtaining one is to invest
US$50,000 or more in the country. For informa-
tion on business opportunities in your field of
expertise, contact the Fiji Trade and Invest-
ment Bureau (P.O. Box 2303, Government
Buildings, Suva; tel. 315-988, fax 301-873, web-
site: www.ftib.org.fj), Civic Tower, Level 6, di-
rectly behind the Suva City Library on Victoria
Parade. Foreigners holding professional or tech-
nical qualifications in fields required by Fiji also
receive preference. Fiji's diplomatic offices
abroad should be able to provide advice.
DIPLOMATIC OFFICES
Permanent Mission to the United Nations, 630 3rd
Ave., 7th floor. New York, NY 10017. U.S.A.
(tel. 212/687-4130, fax 212/687-3963)
Embassy of Fiji. 2233 Wisconsin Ave. NW. Suite
240, Washington, DC 20007, U.S.A. (tel.
202/337-8320, fax 202/337-1996)
High Commission of Fiji. 19 Beale Cres., Deakin,
ACT 2600. Australia (tel. 61-2/6260-51 15. fax
61-2/6260-5105)
High Commission of Fiji, 31 Piprtea St., Thomdon.
Wellington, New Zealand (tel. 64-4/473-5401 ,
fax 64-4/499-1011)
High Commission of Fiji, Defense House, 4th
floor. Champion Parade, Port Moresby NCD,
Papua New Guinea (tel. 675/321-1914, fax
675/321-7220)
High Commission of Fiji. 34 Hyde Park Gate,
London SW7 5DN, United Kingdom (tel. 44-
171/584-3661. fax 44-171/584-2838)
Embassy of Fiji, 66 avenue de Cortenberg, B.P.
7, 1040 Brussels, Belgium (tel. 32-2/736-9050,
fax 32-2736-1458)
Embassy of Fiji, Noa Building. 14th floor. 3-5. 2-
Chome, Azabudai, Minato-Ku, Tokyo 106,
Japan (tel. 81-3/3587-2038, fax 81-3/3587-
2563)
High Commission of Fiji, Level 2, Menara Chan.
138 Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur,
Malaysia (tel. 60-3/264-8422, fax 60-3/925-
7555)
Fiji Trade and Tourism Commission. Suite 3212,
32nd Floor, 333 Keelung Road, Sector 1,
Taipei, Taiwan (tel. 886-2/757-9596, fax 886-
2757-9597)
Copyrighted material
MONEY 91
Fiji has four ports of entry for yachts: Lautoka.
Levuka. Savusavu. and Suva. Calling at an outer
island before clearing customs is prohibited. Le-
vuka is the easiest place to check in or out. as all
of the officials have offices right on the main
wharf, and Savusavu is also convenient. To visit
the outer islands, yachts require a letter of au-
thorization from the Secretary for Fijian Affairs in
Suva, or the commissioner (at Labasa, Lautoka,
or Nausori) of the division they wish to visit.
Yacht permits to visit the outer islands must be
obtained from the Provincial Desk Unit, 3rd floor.
Native Land Trust Board building, Carnarvon
St. and Gladestone Road, Suva.
MONEY
The currency is the Fiji dollar, which is about two
to one to the U.S. dollar in value (US$1 = F$2.25).
To obtain the current rate, visit www.xe.net/ucc.
The Fiji dollar is a stable currency, pegged to a
basket of the U.S., New Zealand, and Australian
dollars, the yen, and the pound.
The first Fijian coins were minted in London in
1934. but Fiji continued to deal in British cur-
rency until 1969 when dollars and cents were
introduced (at the rate of two Fiji dollars to one
pound). There are coins of one. two, five, 10,
20. and 50 cents and one dollar, and bills of
F$2. F$5, F$10, F$20, and F$50 (the F$5 and
F$50 notes and F$2 and F$20 notes have con-
fusingly similar colors and designs).
Banking hours are Monday-Thursday
0930-1500, Friday 0930-1600. Commercial
banks operating in Fiji include the ANZ Bank.
Indian-owned Bank of Baroda, Pakistani-owned
Habib Bank. Colonial National Bank, Bank of
Hawaii. Merchant Bank, and Westpac Banking
Corporation. There are bank branches in all the
main towns, but it's usually not possible to
change traveler s checks or foreign banknotes in
rural areas or on the outer islands. Take care
when changing at the luxury hotels as they often
give a rate much lower than the banks. Recent
cases of stolen traveler's checks being changed
in Fiji has caused many hotels and restaurants to
refuse them. It's a good idea to plan ahead and
change enough money at a bank to get you
through the weekends.
Credit cards are strictly for the cities and re-
sorts (the most useful cards to bring are Ameri-
can Express, Diners Club, JCB International,
MasterCard, and Visa). The ANZ Bank gives
cash advances on MasterCard and Visa and
has automated teller machines (ATMs) outside
most of their offices. ATMs provide local cur-
rency from checking accounts and Visa and
92 ON THE ROAD
MasterCard accounts at good rates without com-
mission. Some ATMs (such as those at Westpac
Bank and Colonial National Bank branches) ac-
cept only local debit cards. In some cases you'll
need an access card to get at an ATM. Occa-
sionally the machines won't work, in which case
you'll almost always be able to get a cash ad-
vance at the counter inside (though not at the
Colonial National Bank).
Ask your bank what fee they'll charge if you
use an ATM abroad, what your daily limit will
be, and if you'll need a special personal identifi-
cation number (PIN). Cash advances against
credit cards are considered loans and accrue
interest from the moment you are paid. You may
be able to avoid this by maintaining a balance on
your credit card account. To avoid emergen-
cies, it's better not to be 100 percent dependent
on ATMs. If you're forced to get a cash advance
through a large supermarket or resort, they'll
probably take 10 percent commission for the
favor. Many tourist facilities levy a five percent
surcharge on credit card payments.
The import of foreign currency is unrestrict-
ed, but only F$500 in Fiji banknotes may be im-
ported or exported. Avoid taking any Fiji ban-
knotes out of the country at all, as Fiji dollars are
difficult to change and heavily discounted out-
side Fiji. The Thomas Cook offices in Suva and
Nadi will change whatever you have left into the
currency of the next country on your itinerary
(don't forget to keep enough local currency to
pay your airport departure tax at the check-in
counter). Officially you're only allowed to export a
maximum of F$5,000 in foreign cash, although
this will only become an issue if they catch you for
something else, such as narcotics, pornography,
firearms, or immigration offenses.
For security the bulk of your travel funds
should be in traveler's checks. American Ex-
press is probably the best kind to have, as they're
represented by Tapa International in Suva (4th
floor, ANZ House, 25 Victoria Parade; tel. 302-
333, fax 302-048) and Nadi (Nadi Airport Con-
course; tel. 722-325). If your American Express
checks or card are lost or stolen, contact either of
these. Thomas Cook has offices of their own at
30 Thomson St., Suva (tel. 301-603, fax 300-
304), and in Nadi (tel. 703-1 10).
If you need money sent, have your banker
make a telegraphic transfer to any Westpac
Bank or ANZ Bank branch in Fiji. Many banks will
hold a sealed envelope for you in their vault for a
nominal fee— a good way to avoid carrying un-
needed valuables with you all around Fiji.
In 1992 Fiji introduced a 10 percent value-
added tax (VAT), which is usually (but not al-
ways) included in quoted prices. Among the few
items exempt from the tax are unprocessed local
foods, books printed in Fiji, and bus fares. De-
spite VAT, Fiji is one of the least expensive coun-
tries in the South Pacific, especially since the
devaluation. Tipping isn't customary in Fiji, al-
though some resorts do have a staff Christmas
fund, to which contributions are welcome. Maybe
have a quality baseball hat or a small bottle of
nice perfume in your bag to give to anyone who
has really gone out of their way for you.
COMMUNICATIONS
Post service guarantees that your letter or parcel will
Post offices are generally open weekdays get on the first international airline connection
0800-1 600 and they hold general delivery mail to your destination for a small surcharge. Ex-
two months. Fiji's postal workers are amazingly press mail service (EMS) is more expensive but
polite and efficient, and postage is inexpensive, faster and up to 20 kilograms may be sent (avail-
so mail lots of postcards from here! Consider able to 28 countries). Main post offices all around
using air mail for parcels, since surface mail Fiji accept EMS mail,
takes up to six months. Most surface parcels do When writing to Fiji, use the words "Fiji Is-
arrive eventually, and small packets weighing lands" in the address (otherwise the letter might
less that one kilogram benefit from an especial- go to Fuji, Japan) and underline Fiji (so it doesn't
ly low tariff. Book rate up to five kilograms is end up in Iceland). Also include the post office
also very low. The weight limit for overseas box number as there's no residential mail deliv-
parcels is 10 kilograms. Post Fiji's fast POST ery in Fiji. If it's a remote island or small village
Copyrighted material
COMMUNICATIONS 93
you're writing to, the person's name will be suf-
ficient. Sending a picture postcard to an islander
is a very nice way of saying thank you.
Aside from EMS, the other major courier ser-
vices active in Fiji are CDP (tel. 313-077) at
Labasa, Lautoka, Ba, Nadi, Sigatoka, and Suva,
DHL (tel. 313-166) with offices at Labasa, Lau-
toka, Levuka, Nadi, Savusavu, and Suva, TNT
(tel. 308-677) at Lautoka, Nadi, and Suva, and
UPS (tel. 312-697) at Lautoka, Nadi, and Suva.
To Europe or North America, DHL charges
F$140 for a small box up to 10 kilograms or
F$240 for a big box up to 25 kilograms.
Telecommunications
Card telephones are very handy, and if you're
staying in Fiji more than a few days and intend to
make your own arrangements, it's wise to pur-
chase a local telephone card right away (coin
telephones don't exist). In this handbook we pro-
vide all the numbers you'll need to make hotel
reservations, check restaurant hours, find out
about cultural shows, and compare car rental
rates, saving you a lot of time and inconvenience.
By using a telephone card to call long dis-
tance you limit the amount the call can possi-
bly cost and won't end up overspending should
you forget to keep track of the time. On short
calls you avoid three-minute minimum charges.
International telephone calls placed from hotel
rooms are always much more expensive than
the same calls made from public phones using
telephone cards (ask the receptionist for the lo-
cation of the nearest card phone). What you
sacrifice is your privacy as anyone can stand
around and listen to your call, as often happens.
Card phones are usually found outside post of-
fices or large stores. Check that the phone ac-
tually works before bothering to arrange your
numbers and notes, as it seems like quite a few
of the 770 card phones in Fiji are out of order at
any given time.
Magnetic telephone cards and Tele Cards
are sold at all post offices and many shops in de-
nominations of F$3, F$5, F$10, F$20, and F$50
(foreign phone cards cannot be used in Fiji). It's
wiser to get a F$3 or F$5 card rather than one of
the higher values in case you happen to leave it
behind in the phone (easy to do). Since domes-
tic telephone rates are extremely low in Fiji, even
the F$3 card lasts ages. With a Tele Card you
scratch off a strip on the back of the card to re-
veal a code number. On hearing a dial tone, dial
101 and follow the voice prompts. The regular
magnetic phone cards are easier to use as they
need only be inserted into phones that will take
them. The Tele Card is more convenient as it
can be used from all types of phones.
As far as telephone charges go, Fiji is divided
into three regions. Western includes all of Viti
Levu west of Rakiraki and Sigatoka, plus the
Yasawas. Eastern is all of Viti Levu east of Ko-
rolevu, plus Ovalau and Kadavu. Northern is
Vanua Levu and Taveuni. Calls within a region
are F$0.20 per 45 seconds, while inter-regional
calls are F$0.20 per 1 5 seconds. Thus you can
call anywhere in the country for a mere F$0.20,
though you get more time if the call is within the
same region. On local calls you get 10 minutes
for your F$0.20.
Fiji domestic directory assistance is 01 1 , in-
ternational directory assistance 022, the do-
mestic operator 010, the international operator
012. In emergencies, dial 000.
Fiji's international access code from public tele-
phones is 05, so insert your card, dial 05, the
country code, the area code, and the number (to
Canada and the U.S. the country code is always
1). To call overseas collect (billed to your party at
the higher person-to-person rate), dial 031 , the
country code, the area code, and the number. If
calling Fiji from abroad, dial your own interna-
tional access code, Fiji's telephone code 679.
There are no area codes in Fiji. If the line is in-
audible, hang up immediately and try again later.
Trunk Radio System (TRS) calls can be direct
dialed from inside Fiji, but must go through an
operator through from overseas. All such six-digit
numbers begin with 1 1 and many are only an-
swered at certain times of day (usually
0800-1000/1400-1600). You can search for any
telephone number in Fiji at www.whitepages.
com.fj and www.yellowpages.com.fj.
The basic long-distance charge for three min-
utes is FS4.26 to Australia or New Zealand.
F$7.20 to North America, Europe, or Japan. All
operator-assisted international calls have a three-
minute minimum charge and additional time is
charged per minute, whereas international calls
made using telephone cards have no minimum
and the charges are broken down into flat six-
second units (telephone cards with less than F$3
Copyrighted material
94 ON THE ROAD
credit on them cannot be used for international
calls). International calls are 25 percent cheaper
Mon.-Fri. 2200-0600 and all day Sunday.
If you have a calling card or phone pass is-
sued by your own telephone company, you can
access an operator or automated voice prompt in
your home country by dialing a "country direct"
number from any touch-tone phone in Fiji. Such
calls are billed to your home telephone number
at the full non-discounted rate an operator-as-
sisted call to Fiji would cost from your country,
which in Fiji works out to about 50 percent more
than using a local telephone card for interna-
tional calls as described above. (Don't be fooled
by misleading advertisements implying that "di-
rect" calls are cheaper.) Still, if don't mind paying
extra for the convenience, the "country direct"
numbers to dial include:
• TNZ New Zealand 004-890-6401
• Telstra Australia 004-890-6101
• Optus Australia 004-890-6102
• AT&T United States 004-890-1001
• MCI United States 004-890-1002
• Sprint United States 004-890-1003
• Telecom Hawaii 004-890-1004
• Teleglobe Canada 004-890- 1 005
• BT United Kingdom 004-890-4401
The service is also available for calls to Hong
Kong, Japan, and Korea. Even though the phone
companies have the cheek to suggest it, never
use a "direct" number to place a domestic call
within a single foreign country or an internation-
al call to a country other than your own. The call
will be routed through your home country and
you'll be shocked when you see the bill.
Fax
Faxes can be sent from the post offices in
Labasa, Lautoka, Ba, Nadi, Sigatoka, and Suva.
Outgoing faxes cost F$5.50 a page to regional
countries, F$7.70 to other countries, both plus
a FS3.30 handing fee. You can also receive
faxes at these post offices for F$1 .10 a page.
The numbers you'll probably use are fax 702-
467 at Nadi Airport Post Office, fax 702-166 at
Nadi Town Post Office, fax 664-666 at Lautoka
Post Office, and fax 302-666 at Suva General
Post Office.
If a fax you are trying to send to Fiji from abroad
doesn't go through smoothly on the first or second
try, wait and try again at another time of day. If it
doesn't work then, stop trying as the fax machine
at the other end may not be able to read your
signal, and your telephone company will levy a
minimum charge for each attempt. Call the inter-
national operator to ask what is wrong.
The Internet
Fiji is the most advanced country in the South
Pacific as far as the Internet goes. Most tourism-
related businesses in Fiji now have email ad-
dresses and websites, making communication
from abroad a lot cheaper and easier. When
sending email to Fiji, never include an attach-
ment such as Excel or Word files or photos with
your message unless it has been specifically re-
quested, as the recipient may be forced to pay
stiff long distance telephone charges to download
it. Many people delete such files unopened for
security reasons.
To provide a ready reference resource, we've
committed most Fiji email and website address-
es to this book's backmatter (overseas elec-
tronic addresses meant to be used prior to arrival
in Fiji are embedded in this introduction). If you
use the web, have a look at those listings now
and check them whenever you require addition-
al information. Even the most obscure back-
packer hostels and outer island dive shops have
websites these days! The electronic listings have
been carefully assembled and tested to com-
plement the data provided in this book, so use
them as a second index. If an email address
provided anywhere in this book doesn't work,
check www.bulafiji.com for an update.
In Fiji, public Internet access is offered by
Telecom Fiji opposite the post office in Suva, a
chance to catch up on your email. Other public
cyber cafes are found in Nadi, Lautoka, Sigato-
ka, Pacific Harbor, Suva, and Savusavu.
Copyrighted material
MEDIA 95
MEDIA
Print Media
The Fiji Times (P.O. Box 1 167, Suva; tel. 304-
1 1 1 . fax 302-01 1 ), "the first newspaper pub-
lished in the world today." was founded at Levuka
in 1869 but is now owned by publishing mogul
Rupert Murdoch's estate. The Fiji government
has a controlling 44 percent interest in the Daily
Post (P.O. Box 2071, Government Buildings.
Suva; tel. 313-342), which is also partly owned by
Colonial Mutual Insurance. The Daily Post ap-
peared just after the Rabuka coups in 1987. Fi-
ji's newest paper is the Fiji Sun (Private Mail
Bag, Suva; tel. 307-555. fax 311-455), estab-
lished in September 1999. The Times has a
daily print run of 38.000. the Post about 16,000.
In a December 2000 paper, titled Coup Coup
Land: The Press and the Putsch in Fiji, the co-
ordinator of the University of the South Pacific's
journalism program, David Robie. explored the
role of the media in the Fiji Crisis:
On Chaudhry 's release from captivity, he
partly blunted the media for the overthrow
of his government. Some sectors of the media
waged a hitter campaign against the admin-
istration and its rollback of privatisation. In
the early weeks of the insurrection, the media
enjoyed an unusually close relationship with
Speight and the hostage-takers, raising ethical
questions.
Robie's entire paper can be found on his website
www.asiapac.org.fj/cafepacific. and it makes
useful reading for anyone concerned about
media accountability in such situations.
The region's leading newsmagazine is Pacific
(P.O. Box 12718, Suva; tel. 303-108, fax 301-
423), published monthly in Suva. There's also
an in-depth Fijian news and business magazine
called The Review {P.O. Box 12095, Suva; tel.
300-591 , fax 301-930). which is worth picking up
during your trip. Turn to Resources at the end of
this book for more Pacific-oriented publications.
TV
Television broadcasting began in Fiji in 1991.
Fiji 1 is on the air daily 1545-2230, with Aus-
tralian programming rebroadcast at other hours.
Fiji 1 gives the Fiji news at 1800 and 2155, the
BBC world news at 1830 and 2225. The gov-
ernment-owned Fiji Development Bank has a
51 percent share in the station. In addition to
this free station, there's a paid service for which
a decoder must be rented at F$1 a day. The
three paid channels are Sky Plus (English lan-
guage programming). Sky Entertainment (Hindi
programming from India), and Star Sports. The
daily papers provide program guides.
Radio
A great way to keep in touch with world and
local affairs is to take along an AM/FM short-
wave portable radio. Your only expense will be
the radio itself and batteries. Below we provide
the names and frequencies of the local stations,
so set your tuning buttons to these as soon as
you arrive in an area.
Try picking up the BBC World Service on your
shortwave receiver at 11.77 and 15.36 MHz.
Also scan the airwaves for Radio Australia and
Radio New Zealand International. Their fre-
quencies vary according to the time of day and
usually work best at night. Also listen for Radio
Vanuatu and the Solomon Islands Broadcast-
ing Corporation, both often heard in Fiji when
conditions are right.
Unfortunately Fiji doesn't have a shortwave
broadcaster of its own, but privately owned Com-
munications Fiji Ltd. (Private Mail Bag, Suva;
tel. 314-766. fax 303-748. website: www.
fijivillage.com) rebroadcasts the BBC World Ser-
vice over 106.8 MHz FM 24 hours a day (avail-
able around Suva only). Communications Fiji
Ltd. also operates three lively commercial FM
stations, which broadcast around the clock: FM
96 in English, Viti FM in Fijian, and Radio Nav-
tarang in Hindi.
96 ON THE ROAD
In addition, the quasi-official Fiji Broadcast-
ing Corporation (P.O. Box 334, Suva; tel. 314-
333, fax 301-643, website: www.radiofiji.org) op-
erates five AM/FM radio stations: Bula 100 FM in
English, Radio Fiji One (RF1) in Fijian for older
listeners, Bula 102 FM in Fijian for younger lis-
teners, Radio Fiji Two (RF2) in Hindi for older lis-
teners, and Bula 98 FM in Hindi for younger lis-
teners. The Bula stations (or "Bula Network")
are funded by commercial advertising, while the
public service Radio Fiji stations get a govern-
ment grant.
At Suva you can pick up the local stations at
the following frequencies: FM 96 at 96.0 MHz,
Bula 98 FM at 98.0 MHz, Navtarang at 98.8
MHz, Bula 100 FM at 100.4 MHz, Bula 102 FM
at 102.0 MHz, Viti FM at 102.8 MHz, RF2 at
105.2 MHz FM, and RF1 at 558 kHz AM.
At Nadi and Lautoka check the following fre-
quencies: FM 96 at 95.4 MHz. Navtarang at 97.4
MHz, and Viti FM at 99.6 MHz. At Lautoka you'll
also get Bula 100 FM at 94.6 and 100.0 MHz.
On the Coral Coast it's FM 96 at 96.6 MHz,
Bula 98 FM at 98.2 MHz, Bula 100 FM at 100.6
MHz, Navtarang at 101.6 MHz. Bula 102 FM at
103.0 MHz, Viti FM at 103.8 MHz, RF1 at 927
kHz, and RF2 at 1206 kHz. Around Rakiraki look
for FM 96 at 95.0 and 98.8 MHz, Navtarang at
97.0 MHz, and Viti FM at 104.8 MHz. Elsewhere in
northern Viti Levu, you can get Bula 100 FM at
94.6 MHz. FM 96 at 96.6 MHz, Navtarang at 101 .6
MHz, and Viti FM at 103.8 MHz in Tavua and Ba.
In Tavua tune in 107.8 MHz for Radio Kuola FM.
On Vanua Levu, check the following fre-
quencies at Labasa: FM 96 at 95.4 MHz, Nav-
tarang at 97.4 MHz, Bula 98 FM at 98.4 MHz, Viti
FM at 99.6 MHz. Bula 100 FM at 100 0 MHz,
and RF2 at 810 kHz. Reception of any station is
difficult at Taveuni.
The local stations broadcast mostly pop music
and repetitive advertising with very little news
or commentary (the presenters sometimes get
things hilariously mixed up). Bula 100 FM broad-
casts local news and a weather report on the
hour weekdays 0600-2200 (weekends every
other hour) with a special news of the day report
at 1745, followed by the BBC world news just
after 1800. The BBC news is also broadcast on
Bula 100 FM at 1900 and 2100. Radio FM 96
broadcasts news and weather on the hour week-
days 0600-1 800, Saturday and Sunday at 0800,
0900, 1000, 1200, 1300, 1700, and 1800.
Fiji's climate is a healthy one. and the main caus-
es of death are non-communicable diseases such
as heart disease, diabetes, and cancer The sea
and air are clear and usually pollution-free. The hu-
midity nourishes the skin and the local fruit is brim-
ming with vitamins. If you take a few precautions,
you'll never have a sick day. The information pro-
vided below is intended to make you knowledge-
able, not fearful. If you have access to the Internet,
check www.cdc.gov/travel/austspac.htm for up-
to-the-minute information.
Health care is good, with an abundance of
hospitals, health centers, and nursing stations
scattered around the country. The largest hos-
pitals are in Labasa, Lautoka, Levuka, Ba,
Savusavu, Sigatoka, Suva, and Taveuni. The
crowded government-run medical facilities pro-
vide free medical treatment to local residents
but have special rates for foreigners. It's usually
no more expensive to visit a private doctor or
clinic, where you'll receive much faster service
since everyone is paying. We've tried to list pri-
vate doctors and dentists throughout the hand-
book, but in emergencies and outside clinic
hours, you can always turn to the government-
run facilities. Unfortunately, very few facilities
are provided for travelers with disabilities.
To call an ambulance dial 000. In case of
scuba diving accidents, an operating dive re-
compression chamber (tel./fax 305-154 in Suva
or 850-630 in Savusavu) is available in Suva.
The 24-hour recompression medical evacuation
number is tel. 362-172.
Travel Insurance
The sale of travel insurance is a big business but
the value of the policies themselves is often ques-
tionable. If your regular group health insurance
also covers you while you're traveling abroad, ifs
probably enough as medical costs in Fiji are gen-
erally low. Most policies only pay the amount
above and beyond what your national or group
Copyrighted material
HEALTH 97
health insurance will pay and are invalid if you
don't have any health insurance at all. You may
also be covered by your credit card company if
you paid for your plane ticket with the card. Buying
extra travel insurance is about the same as buying
a lottery ticket: there's always the chance it will
pay off, but it's usually money down the drain.
If you do opt for the security of travel insur-
ance, make sure emergency medical evacua-
tions are covered. Some policies are invalid if
you engage in "dangerous activities," such as
scuba diving, parasailing, surfing, or even rid-
ing a motor scooter, so be sure to read the fine
print. Scuba divers may find it comforting to know
that a recompression chamber is available at
Suva, but even then an emergency medical
evacuation by helicopter might be required and
there isn't any point buying a policy that doesn't
cover it. Some companies will pay your bills di-
rectly while others require you to pay and collect
receipts, which may be reimbursed later.
Some policies also cover travel delays, lost
baggage, and theft. In practice, your airline prob-
ably already covers the first two adequately and
claiming something extra from your insurance
company could be more trouble than it's worth.
Theft insurance never covers items left on the
beach while you're in swimming. All said, you
should weigh the advantages and decide for
yourself if you want a policy. Just don't be too in-
fluenced by what your travel agent says as they'll
only want to sell you coverage to earn another
commission.
Acclimatizing
Don't go from winter weather into the steaming
tropics without a rest before and after. Minimize
jet lag by setting your watch to local time at your
destination as soon as you board the flight. West-
bound tngnts to riji trom Norm Amenca or burope
are less jolting since you follow the sun and your
body gets a few hours extra sleep. On the way
home you're moving against the sun and the
hours of sleep your body loses cause jet lag.
Airplane cabins have low humidity, so drink lots
of juice or water instead of carbonated drinks,
and don't overeat in-flight. It's also wise to forgo
coffee, as it will only keep you awake, and alco-
hol, which will dehydrate you.
Scuba diving on departure day can give you a
severe case of the bends. Before flying there
should be a minimum of 12 hours surface inter-
val after a nondecompression dive and a mini-
mum of 24 hours after a decompression dive.
Factors contributing to decompression sickness
include a lack of sleep and/or the excessive con-
sumption of alcohol before diving.
If you start feeling seasick on board a ship,
stare at the horizon, which is always steady,
and try to stop thinking about it. Anti-motion-
sickness pills are useful to have along; other-
wise, ginger helps alleviate seasickness. Travel
stores sen acubands tnat find a pressure point on
the wrist and create a stable flow of blood to the
head, thus miraculously preventing seasickness!
Frequently the feeling of thirst is false and
only due to mucous membrane dryness. Gar-
gling or taking two or three gulps of warm water
should be enough. Keep moisture in your body
by having a hot drink like tea or black coffee, or
any kind of slightly salted or sour drink in small
quantities. Salt in fresh lime juice is remarkably
refreshing.
The tap water in Fiji is usually drinkable except
immediately after a cyclone or during droughts,
when care should be taken. If in doubt, boil it or
use purification pills. Natural artesian water in
plastic bottles is widely available. Tap water that
is uncomfortably hot to touch is usually safe.
Allow it to cool in a clean container. Don't forget
that if the tap water is contaminated, the local ice
will be too. Avoid brushing your teeth with water
unfit to drink, and wash or peel fruit and veg-
etables if you can. Cooked food is less subject to
contamination than raw.
Sunburn
Though you may think a tan will make you look
healthier and more attractive, it's actually very
damaging to the skin, which becomes dry, rigid,
and prematurely old and wrinkled, especially on
the face. Begin with short exposures to the sun,
perhaps a half-hour at a time, followed by an
equal time in the shade. Avoid the sun from
1000 to 1500, the most dangerous time. Clouds
and beach umbrellas will not protect you fully.
Wear a T-shirt while snorkeling to protect your
back. Drink plenty of liquids to keep your pores
open. Sunbathing is the main cause of cataracts
to the eyes, so wear sunglasses and a wide-
brimmed hat, and beware of reflected sunlight.
Use a sunscreen lotion containing PABA
Copyrighted material
98 ON THE ROAD
A TRAVELER'S NOTES ON AIDS AND HIV
In 1981 scientists in the United States and France
first recognized the Acquired Immune Deficiency
Syndrome (AIDS), which was later discovered to
be caused by a virus called the Human Immuno-
deficiency Virus (HIV). HIV breaks down the body's
immunity to infections leading to AIDS. The virus
can lie hidden in the body for up to 1 0 years without
producing any obvious symptoms or before devel-
oping into the AIDS disease and in the meantime the
person can unknowingly infect others.
HIV lives in white blood cells and is present in
the sexual fluids of humans. If s difficult to catch and
is spread mostly through sexual intercourse, by nee-
dle or syringe sharing among intravenous drug users,
in blood transfusions, and during pregnancy and
birth (if the mother is infected). Using another per-
son's razor blade or having your body pierced or
tattooed are also risky, but the HIV virus cannot be
transmitted by shaking hands, kissing, cuddling,
fondling, sneezing, cooking food, or sharing eating or
drinking utensils. One cannot be infected by saliva,
sweat, tears, urine, or feces; toilet seats, telephones,
swimming pools, or mosquito bites do not cause
AIDS. Ostracizing a known AIDS victim is not only
immoral but also absurd.
Most blood banks now screen their products for
HIV, and you can protect yourself against dirty nee-
dles by only allowing an injection if you see the sy-
ringe taken out of a fresh unopened pack. The sim-
plest safeguard during sex is the proper use of a
latex condom. Unroll the condom onto the erect
penis; while withdrawing after ejaculation, hold onto
the condom as you come out. Never try to recycle a
condom, and pack a supply with you as it's a nui-
sance trying to buy them locally.
HIV is spread more often through anal than vagi-
nal sex because the lining of the rectum is much
weaker than that of the vagina, and ordinary con-
doms sometimes tear when used in anal sex. If you
have anal sex, only use extra-strong condoms and
special water-based lubricants since oil, Vaseline,
and cream weaken the rubber. During oral sex you
must make sure you don't get any semen or men-
strual blood in your mouth. A woman runs 10 times
the risk of contracting AIDS from a man than the
other way around, and the threat is always greater
when another sexually transmitted disease (STD)
is present.
The very existence of AIDS calls for a basic
change in human behavior. No vaccine or drug exists
that can prevent or cure AIDS, and because the
virus mutates frequently, no remedy may ever be
totally effective. Other STDs such as syphilis, gon-
orrhea, chlamydia, hepatitis B. and herpes are far
more common than AIDS and can lead to serious
complications such as infertility, but at least they
can usually be cured.
The euphoria of travel can make it easier to fall in
love or have sex with a stranger, so travelers must be
informed of these dangers. As a tourist you should al-
ways practice safe sex to prevent AIDS and other
STDs. You never know who is infected or even if you
yourself have become infected. It's important to bring
the subject up before you start to make love. Make a
joke out of it by pulling out a condom and asking your
new partner. "Say, do you know what this is?" Or
perhaps. "Your condom or mine?" Far from being
unromantic or embarrassing, you'll both feel more
relaxed with the subject off your minds and it's much
HEALTH 99
better than worrying afterwards if you might have
been infected. The golden rule is safe sex or no sex.
By 2001 an estimated 36 million people worldwide
were HIV earners, and three million a year were dying
of AIDS. In the South Pacific, the number of cases is
still extremely small compared to the hundreds of
thousands confirmed HIV infections in the United
States. Yet it's worth noting that other STDs have al-
ready reached epidemic proportions in the urban
areas of Fiji, demonstrating that the type of behavior
leading to the rapid spread of AIDS is present.
An HIV infection can be detected through a blood
test because the antibodies created by the body
rather than oil, and don't forget to apply it to
your nose, lips, forehead, neck, hands, and
feet. Sunscreens protect you from ultraviolet
rays (a leading cause of cancer), while oils
magnify the sun's effect. A 15-factor sunscreen
provides 93 percent protection (a more expen-
sive 30-factor sunscreen is only slightly better at
97 percent protection). Apply the lotion before
going to the beach to avoid being burned on
the way, and reapply every couple of hours to
replace sunscreen washed away by perspira-
tion. Swimming also washes away your pro-
tection. After sunbathing take a tepid shower
rather than a hot one, which would wash away
your natural skin oils. Stay moist and use a vit-
amin E evening cream to preserve the youth
of your skin. Calamine ointment soothes skin al-
ready burned, as does coconut oil. Pharma-
cists recommend Solarcaine to soothe burned
skin. Rinsing off with a vinegar solution reduces
peeling, and aspirin relieves some of the pain
and irritation. Vitamin A and calcium counteract
overdoses of vitamin D received from the sun.
The fairer your skin, the more essential it is to
take care.
As earth's ozone layer is depleted due to the
commercial use of chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs)
and other factors, the need to protect oneself
from ultraviolet radiation is becoming more ur-
gent. In 1990 the U.S. Centers for Disease Con-
trol and Prevention in Atlanta reported that
deaths from skin cancer increased 26 percent
between 1973 and 1985. Previously the can-
cers didn't develop until age 50 or 60, but now
much younger people are affected.
to fight off the virus can be seen under a micro-
scope. It takes at least three weeks for the anti-
bodies to be produced and in some cases as long
as six months before they can be picked up during
a screening test. If you think you may have run a
risk, you should discuss the appropriateness of a
test with your doctor. It's always better to know if you
are infected so as to be able to avoid infecting others,
to obtain early treatment of symptoms, and to make
realistic plans.
If you know someone with AIDS you should give
them all the support you can (there's no danger in
such contact unless blood is present).
Ailments
Cuts and scratches infect easily in the tropics
and take a long time to heal. Prevent infection
from coral cuts by immediately washing wounds
with soap and fresh water, then rubbing in vinegar
or alcohol (whiskey will do)— painful but effec-
tive. Use an antiseptic like hydrogen peroxide
and an antibacterial ointment such as neosporin,
if you have them. Islanders usually dab coral cuts
with lime juice. All cuts turn septic quickly in the
tropics, so try to keep them clean and covered.
For bites, burns, and cuts, an antiseptic such as
Solarcaine speeds healing and helps prevent in-
fection. Pure aloe vera is good for sunburn,
scratches, and even coral cuts. Bites by sand
flies itch for days and can become infected. Not
everyone is affected by insect bites in the same
way. Some people are practically immune to in-
sects, while traveling companions experiencing
exactly the same conditions are soon covered
with bites. You'll soon know which type you are.
Prickly heat, an intensely irritating rash, is
caused by wearing heavy clothing that is inap-
propriate for the climate. When sweat glands
are blocked and the sweat is unable to evapo-
rate, the skin becomes soggy and small red blis-
ters appear. Synthetic fabrics like nylon are es-
pecially bad in this regard. Take a cold show-
er, apply calamine lotion, dust with talcum pow-
der, and take off those clothes! Until things im-
prove, avoid alcohol, tea, coffee, and any phys-
ical activity that makes you sweat. If you're
sweating profusely, increase your intake of salt
slightly to avoid fatigue, but not without concur-
rently drinking more water.
Copyrighted material
100 ON THE ROAD
Use antidiarrheal medications such as Lo-
motil or Imodium sparingly. Rather than take
drugs to plug yourself up, drink plenty of un-
sweetened liquids like green coconut or fresh
fruit juice to help flush yourself out. Egg yolk
mixed with nutmeg helps diarrhea, or eat rice
and drink tea for the day. Avoid dairy products.
Most cases of diarrhea are self-limiting and re-
quire only simple replacement of the fluids and
salts lost in diarrheal stools. If the diarrhea is
persistent or you experience high fever, drowsi-
ness, or blood in the stool, stop traveling, rest,
and consider seeing a doctor. For constipation
eat pineapple or any peeled fruit.
Other Diseases
Infectious hepatitis A (jaundice) is a liver ailment
transmitted person to person or through unboiled
water, uncooked vegetables, or other foods con-
taminated during handling. The risk of infection is
highest among those who eat village food, so if
you'll be spending much time in rural areas con-
sider getting an immune globulin shot, which
provides six months protection. Better is a vac-
cine called Havrix, which provides up to 10 years
protection (given in two doses two weeks apart,
then a third dose six months later). If you've ever
had hepatitis A in your life you are already im-
mune. Otherwise, you'll know you've got the hep
when your eyeballs and urine turn yellow. Time
and rest are the only cure. Viral hepatitis B is
spread through sexual or blood contact.
There's no malaria here, but a mosquito-trans-
mitted disease known as dengue fever is endem-
ic. In early 1 998 a major outbreak in Fiji resulted in
an estimated 25.000 cases and 14 deaths. Signs
are headaches, sore throat, pain in the joints,
fever, chills, nausea, and rash. This painful illness
also known as "breakbone fever" can last any-
where from five to 15 days. Although you can re-
lieve the symptoms somewhat, the only real cure
is to stay in bed, drink lots of water, and wait it
out. Avoid aspirin as this can lead to complica-
tions. No vaccine exists, so just try to avoid getting
bitten (the Aedes aegypti or black and white striped
mosquito bites only during the day). Dengue fever
can kill infants so extra care must be taken to
protect them if an outbreak is in progress.
Most visitors are not required to get any vacci-
nations at all before coming to Fiji. Tetanus,
diphtheria, and typhoid fever shots are not re-
quired and only worth considering if you're going
far off the beaten track. Tetanus and diphtheria
shots are given together, and a booster is re-
quired every 10 years. The typhoid fever shot
is every three years. Polio is believed to have
been eradicated from the South Pacific, and no
cases of tetanus or diphtheria have been re-
ported in Fiji in recent years.
The cholera vaccine is only 50 percent effec-
tive and valid just six months, and bad reactions
are common, which explains why most doctors in
developed countries won't administer it. Just for-
get it unless you're sure you're headed for an
infected area. If you'll be visiting Tuvalu, Nauru,
Kiribati, or anywhere in Micronesia before Fiji,
ask your airline if a cholera vaccination is re-
quired. In that case you'll be able to obtain it lo-
cally without difficulty.
A yellow-fever vaccination is required if you've
been in an infected area within the six days prior
to arrival. Yellow fever is a mosquito-borne dis-
ease that occurs only in Central Africa and north-
ern South America (excluding Chile), places
you're not likely to have been just before arriving
in Fiji. Since the vaccination is valid 10 years, get
one if you're an inveterate globe-trotter.
Immune globulin (IG) and the Havrix vaccine
aren't 100 percent effective against hepatitis A,
but they do increase your general resistance to
infections. IG prophylaxis must be repeated
every five months. Hepatitis B vaccination in-
volves three doses over a six-month period (du-
ration of protection unknown) and is recom-
mended mostly for people planning extended
stays in the region.
Copyrighted material
WHAT TO TAKE 101
WHAT TO TAKE
Packing
Assemble everything you simply must take and
cannot live without— then cut the pile in half. If
you're still left with more than will fit into a medi-
um-size suitcase or backpack, continue elimi-
nating. You've got to be tough on yourself and
just limit what you take. Now put it all into your
bag. If the total (bag and contents) weighs over
16 kg, you'll sacrifice much of your mobility. If you
can keep it down to 10 kg, you're traveling light.
Categorize, separate, and pack all your things
into clear plastic freezer bags or stuff sacks for
convenience and protection from moisture. Items
that might leak should be in resealable bags. In
addition to your principal bag. you'll want a day
pack or flight bag. When checking in for flights,
carry anything that cannot be replaced in your
hand luggage. The biggest mistake of first-time
travelers to Fiji is bringing too much baggage.
Your Luggage
Veteran travelers often recommend a small suit-
case with wheels and a retractable handle that
you can sometimes take aboard flights as cany-
on luggage. Officially, economy passengers are
only allowed one item of cabin baggage with
overall dimensions no greater than 115 cen-
timeters. The bag must be able to fit under the
seat in front of you, and must not weigh more
than five kg. In first and business classes you
may carry two bags aboard, which when added
together do not exceed 1 1 5 cm or seven kg in
weight. Larger bags must usually be checked
in at the airline counter.
Also ideal is a soft medium-size backpack
with a lightweight internal frame. Big external-
frame packs are fine for mountain climbing but
get caught in airport conveyor belts and are very
inconvenient on public transport. The best packs
have a zippered compartment in back where
you can tuck in the hip belt and straps before
turning your pack over to an airline or bus. This
type of pack has the flexibility of allowing you
to simply walk when motorized transport is un-
available or unacceptable; and with the straps
zipped in, it looks like a regular suitcase, should
you wish to go upmarket for a while.
Make sure your pack allows you to carry the
weight on your hips, has a cushion for spine
support, and doesn't pull backwards. The pack
should strap snugly to your body but also allow
ventilation for your back. It should be made of a
water-resistant material such as nylon and have
a Fastex buckle.
Look for a pack with double, two-way zipper
compartments and pockets you can lock with
miniature padlocks. They might not stop a thief,
but they will deter the casual pilferer. A 60-cen-
timeter length of lightweight chain and another
padlock will allow you to fasten your pack to
something. Keep valuables locked in your bag,
out of sight, as even upscale hotel rooms aren't
100 percent safe.
Clothing and Camping Equipment
For clothes take loose-fitting cotton washables,
light in color and weight. Synthetic fabrics are
hot and sticky, and most of the things you wear
at home are too heavy for the tropics— be pre-
pared for the humidity. Dress is casual, with
slacks and a sports shirt okay for men even at
dinner parties. Local women often wear long
colorful dresses in the evening, but respectable
shorts are okay in daytime. If in doubt, bring the
minimum with you and buy tropical garb upon ar-
rival. Stick to clothes you can rinse in your room
sink, and don't bring more than two outfits. In
midwinter (July and August) it can be cool at
night, so a light sweater or windbreaker may
come in handy.
The sulu is a bright two-meter piece of cloth
ootn men ana women wrap aoout tnemseives as
an all-purpose garment. Any islander can show
you how to wear it.
Take comfortable shoes that have been bro-
ken in. Running shoes and rubber thongs (flip-
flops) are handy for day use but will bar you from
nightspots with strict dress codes. Scuba divers'
wetsuit booties are lightweight and perfect for both
crossing rivers and lagoon walking, though an old
pair of sneakers may be just as good (never use
the booties to walk on breakable coral).
You'll seldom need a sleeping bag in the trop-
ics, so that's one item you can easily cut. A youth
Copyrighted material
102 ON THE ROAD
hostel sleeping sheet is ideal — all HI handbooks
give instructions on how to make your own or
buy one at your local hostel. If you bring a tent,
don't bother bringing a foam pad as the ground is
seldom cold here.
Below we've provided a few checklists to help
you assemble your gear. The listed items com-
bined weigh well over 16 kg, so eliminate what
doesn't suit you:
• pack with internal frame
• day pack or airline bag
• sun hat or visor
• essential clothing
• only modest bathing suits
• sturdy walking shoes
• rubber thongs (flip-flops)
• rubber booties
• sleeping sheet
Accessories
Bring some reading material, as good books
can be hard to find in resort areas. A mask and
snorkel are essential equipment— you'll be miss-
ing half of Fiji's beauty without them. Scuba
divers will bring their own regulator, buoyancy
compensator, and gauges to avoid gear fees
and to eliminate the possibility of catching a
transmissible disease from rental equipment. A
lightweight three-mm Lycra wetsuit will provide
protection against marine stings and coral.
Neutral gray eyeglasses protect your eyes
from the sun and give the least color distortion.
Take an extra pair (if you wear them).
Also take along postcards of your hometown
and snapshots of your house, family, workplace,
etc; islanders love to see these. Always keep a
promise to mail islanders the photos you take
of them.
• portable shortwave radio
• camera and 10 rolls of film
• compass
• pocket flashlight
• extra batteries
• candle
• pocket alarm calculator
• extra pair of eyeglasses
• sunglasses
• mask and snorkel
• padlock and lightweight chain
• collapsible umbrella
• string for a clothesline
• powdered laundry soap
• universal sink plug
• mini-towel
• silicon glue
• sewing kit
• mini-scissors
• nail clippers
• fishing line for sewing gear
• plastic cup and plate
• can and bottle opener
• corkscrew
• penknife
• spoon
• water bottle
• matches
• tea bags
Toiletries and Medical Kit
Since everyone has his/her own medical re-
quirements and brand names vary from country
to country, there's no point going into detail here.
Note, however, that even the basics (such as
aspirin) are unavailable on some outer islands,
so be prepared. Bring medicated powder for
prickly heat rash. Charcoal tablets are useful for
diarrhea and poisoning (they absorb the irri-
tants). Bring an adequate supply of any person-
al medications, plus your prescriptions (in gener-
ic terminology) as American-made medications
may be unobtainable in the islands. Antibiotics
should only be used to treat serious wounds,
and only after medical advice dictates their use.
High humidity causes curly hair to swell,
straight hair to droop. If it's curly have it cut short
or keep it long in a ponytail or bun. Water-based
makeup is preferable, as the heat and humidity
cause oil glands to work overtime. High-quality,
locally made shampoo, body oils, and insect re-
pellent are sold on all the islands, and the bottles
are conveniently smaller than those sold in West-
em countries. See Health, above, for more ideas.
• wax earplugs
• soap in plastic container
• soft toothbrush
• toothpaste
• roll-on deodorant
• shampoo
Copyrighted material
WHAT TO TAKE 103
• comb and brush
• skin creams
• makeup
• tampons or napkins
• white toilet paper
• vitamin/mineral supplement
• insect repellent
• PABA sunscreen
• lip balm
• a motion-sickness remedy
• contraceptives
• iodine
• water-purification pills
• a diarrhea remedy
• Tiger Balm
• a cold remedy
• Alka-Seltzer
• aspirin
• antihistamine
• antifungal
• Calmitol ointment
• antibacterial ointment
• antiseptic cream
• disinfectant
• simple dressings
• adhesive bandages (like Band-Aids)
• painkiller
• prescription medicines
Money and Documents
All post offices have passport applications. If
you lose your passport you should report the
matter to the local police at once, obtain a cer-
tificate or receipt, then proceed to your embassy
for a replacement. If you have your birth certifi-
cate with you it expedites the process consider-
ably. Don't bother getting an international dri-
ver's license as your regular license is all you
need to drive here.
Traveler's checks in U.S. dollars are recom-
mended, and in Fiji American Express is the
most efficient company when it comes to pro-
viding refunds for lost checks. Thomas Cook
also has offices in Fiji. Bring along a small supply
of US$1 and US$5 bills to use if you don't man-
age to change money immediately upon arrival
or if you run out of local currency and can't get to
a bank.
Carry your valuables in a money belt worn
around your waist or neck under your clothing;
most camping stores have these. Make several
photocopies of the information page of your
passport, personal identification, driver's license,
scuba certification card, credit cards, airline tick-
ets, receipts for purchase of traveler's checks,
etc.— you should be able to get them all on both
sides of one page. On the side of the photo-
copy, write the phone numbers you'd need to
call to report lost documents. A brief medical
history with your blood type, allergies, chronic or
special health problems, eyeglass and medical
prescriptions, etc., might also come in handy.
Put these inside plastic bags to protect them
from moisture, then carry the lists in different
places, and leave one at home.
• passport
• airline tickets
• scuba certification card
• driver's license
• traveler's checks
• some U.S. cash
• credit card
• photocopies of documents
• money belt
• address book
• notebook
• envelopes
• extra ballpoints
FILM AND PHOTOGRAPHY
Scan the ads in photographic magazines for
deals on mail-order cameras and film, or buy at
a discount shop in any large city. Run a roll of film
through your camera to be sure it's in good work-
ing order; clean the lens with lens-cleaning tissue
and check the batteries. Remove the batteries
from your camera when storing it at home for
long penods. Register valuable cameras or elec-
tronic equipment witn customs Detore you leave
home so there won't be any argument over
where you bought the items when you return,
or at least carry a copy of the original bill of sale.
The type of camera you choose could de-
pend on the way you travel. If you'll be staying
mostly in one place, a heavy single-lens reflex
(SLR) camera with spare lenses and other equip-
ment won't trouble you. If you'll be moving
around a lot for a considerable length of time, a
35-mm automatic compact camera will be better.
Copyrighted material
104 ON THE ROAD
The compacts are mostly useful for close-up
shots; landscapes will seem spread out and far
away. A wide-angle lens gives excellent depth of
field, but hold the camera upright to avoid con-
verging verticals. A polarizing filter prevents re-
flections from glass windows and water, and
makes the sky bluer
Although film is cheap and readily available
in Fiji, you never know if it's been spoiled by an
airport X-ray on the way there. On a long trip,
mailers are essential as exposed film shouldn't be
held for long periods. Choose 36-exposure film
over 24-exposure to reduce the number of rolls
you have to carry. When purchasing film in the is-
lands take care to check the expiration date.
Films are rated by their speed and sensitivity to
light, using ISO numbers from 25 to 1600. The
higher the number, the greater the film's sensitivity
to light. Slower films with lower ISOs (like
100-200) produce sharp images in bright sun-
light. Faster films with higher ISOs (like 400) stop
action and work well in low-light situations, such
as in dark rainforests or at sunset. If you have a
manual SLR you can avoid overexposure at mid-
day by reducing the exposure half a stop, but do
overexpose when photographing dark-skinned
Fijians. From 1000 to 1600 the light is often too
bright to take good photos, and panoramas usu-
ally come out best early or late in the day.
Keep your photos simple with one main sub-
ject and an uncomplicated background. Get as
close to your subjects as you can and lower or
raise the camera to their level. Include people in
the foreground of scenic shots to add interest
and perspective. Outdoors a flash can fill in un-
flattering facial shadows caused by high sun or
backlit conditions. Most of all, be creative. Look
for interesting details and compose the photo
before you push the trigger. Instead of taking a
head-on photo of a group of people, step to one
side and ask them to face you. The angle im-
proves the photo. Photograph subjects coming
toward you rather than passing by. Get consent
before photographing people. If you're asked
for money (rare) you can always walk away—
give your subjects the same choice. There is
probably no country in the world where the pho-
tographer will have as interesting and willing
subjects as in Fiji.
When packing, protect your camera against vi-
bration. Checked baggage is scanned by pow-
erful airport X-ray monitors, so carry both camera
and film aboard the plane in a clear plastic bag
and ask security for a visual inspection. Some
airports will refuse to do this, however. A good al-
ternative is to use a lead-laminated pouch. The
old high-dose X-ray units are seldom seen these
days but even low-dose inspection units can
ruin fast film (400 ASA and above). Beware of
the cumulative effect of X-ray machines.
Store your camera in a plastic bag during rain
and while traveling in motorized canoes, etc. In
the tropics the humidity can cause film to stick to
itself; silica-gel crystals in the bag will protect
film from humidity and mold growth. Protect cam-
era and film from direct sunlight and load the
film in the shade. When loading, check that the
takeup spool revolves. Never leave camera or
film in a hot place like a car floor, glove com-
partment, or trunk.
TIME AND MEASUREMENTS
Time
The international dateline generally follows 180
degrees longitude and creates a difference of 24
hours in time between the two sides. It swings
east at Tuvalu to avoid slicing Fiji in two. Every-
thing in the Eastern Hemisphere west of the date
line is a day later, everything in the Western Hemi-
sphere east of the line is a day earlier (or be-
hind). Air travelers lose a day when they fly west
across the date line and gain it back when they re-
turn. Keep track of things by repeating to yourself,
If it's Sunday in Seattle, it's Monday in Manila.
Fiji time is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus
12 hours, with daylight saving time in effect from
November to February (GMT plus 13 hours).
When it's noon in Fiji, it will be 1000 in Sydney,
1200 in Auckland (same time), 1300 in Tonga,
1400 the day before in Hawaii, 1600 the day be-
fore in Los Angeles, 1900 the day before in
Toronto, and midnight in London, England. To
look at it another way, Fiji is 20 hours ahead of
California and also two hours ahead of Sydney,
Australia! You can check the exact time locally in
Fiji by dialing 014. Exact times are available at
Copyrighted material
TIME AND MEASUREMENTS 105
www.worldtimezone.com/time-oceania.htm.
You're better telephoning Fiji from North Amer-
ica in the evening as it will be mid-afternoon in
the islands (plus you'll probably benefit from off-
peak telephone rates). From Europe, call very
late at night. In the other direction, if you're call-
ing from Fiji to North America or Europe, do so in
the early morning as it will already be afternoon
in North America and evening in Europe.
In this book all clock times are rendered ac-
cording to the 24-hour system, i.e. 01 00 is 1 :00
a.m., 1 300 is 1 :00 p.m.. 2330 is 1 1 :30 p.m. There
isn't much twilight in the tropics and when the sun
begins to go down, you've got less than half an
hour before nightfall. The islanders operate on
"coconut time" — the nut will fall when it is ripe. In
the languid air of the South Seas punctuality
takes on a new meaning. Appointments are ap-
proximate and service casual. Even the sea-
sons are fuzzy: sometimes wetter, sometimes
drier, but almost always hot. Slow down to the is-
land pace and get in step with where you are.
Measurements
The metric system is used in Fiji. Study the con-
version table at the back of this handbook if
you're not used to thinking metric. Most dis-
tances herein are quoted in kilometers— they
become easy to comprehend when you know
than one km is the distance a normal person
walks in 10 minutes. A meter is slightly more
than a yard and a liter is just over a quart.
Electric Currents
If you're taking along a plug-in razor, radio, com-
puter, electric immersion coil, or other electrical
appliance, be aware that Fiji uses 240 AC voltage,
50 cycles. Most appliances require a converter to
change from one voltage to another. You'll also
need an adapter to cope with the three-pronged
socket plugs (with the two top prongs at angles).
Pick up both items before you leave home, as
they can be hard to find here. Remember volt-
ages if you buy duty-free appliances: dual voltage
(110/220 V) items are best.
Videos
Commercial travel videotapes make nice sou-
venirs, but always keep in mind that there are
three incompatible video formats in the world:
NTSC (used in North America), PAL (used in
Britain, Germany, Japan, Australia, New
Zealand, and Fiji), and SECAM (used in France
and Russia). Don't buy prerecorded tapes
abroad unless they're the same kind used in
your country.
Copyrighted material
106 ON THE ROAD
GETTING THERE
Fiji's geographic position makes it the hub of
transport for the entire South Pacific, and Nadi is
the region's most important international airport,
with long-haul services to points all around the
Pacific Rim. Twelve international airlines fly into
Nadi: Aircalin, Air Fiji, Air Nauru, Air New
Zealand, Air Pacific, Air Vanuatu, Ansett Aus-
tralia, Korean Air, Polynesian Airlines, Qantas
Airways. Royal Tongan Airlines, and Solomon
Airlines. Air Pacific and Air Fiji also use Suva's
Nausori Airport. The websites of all these carriers
are linked to www.southpacific.org/air.html.
Fiji's national airline, Air Pacific, was founded
in 1951 as Fiji Airways by Harold Garry, a fa-
mous Australian aviator who had set a record
with American Willy Post in 1931 by flying around
the world in eight days. In 1 972 the airline was re-
organized as a regional carrier and the name
changed to Air Pacific. Thanks to careful man-
agement, the Nadi-based company made a prof-
it every year from 1985 to 1999 (a huge loss
was sustained in 2000 due to the downturn in
tourism in the wake of the Speight coup). The
carrier flies Nadi to Apia, Auckland, Brisbane,
To
Tok V o ^
Sydney
Melbou
GETTING THERE 107
Christchurch, Honiara, Honolulu, Los Angeles,
Melbourne, Port Vila, Rarotonga, Sydney, Tokyo,
Tongatapu, Vancouver, and Wellington, and
from Suva to Apia. Auckland, and Sydney. Qan-
tas owns 46.5 percent of Air Pacific (the Fiji gov-
ernment owns the rest) and all Qantas flights to
Fiji are actually code shares with the Fijian car-
rier. Qantas is Air Pacific's general sales agent in
Europe, North America, and Australia, and you'll
fly Air Pacific to Fiji if you booked with Qantas. Air
Pacific code shares with Solomon Airlines when
going to Honiara and Port Vila.
Preparations
First decide when you're going and how long
you wish to stay away. Your plane ticket will be
your biggest single expense, so spend some
time considering the options. Read this entire
chapter right through before going any further. If
you're online check the Internet sites of the air-
lines, then call the airlines on their toll-free num-
bers to hear the sort of fare information they're
providing. The following airlines have flights from
North America:
Air New Zealand: tel. 800/262-1234, website:
www.airnz.com
Air Pacific: tel. 800/227-4446, website:
www.airpacific.com
Sometimes Canada and parts of the United
States have different toll-free numbers, so if a
number given in this chapter doesn't work, dial
toll-free information at 800/555-1212 (all 800
and 888 numbers are free). In Canada, Air New
Zealand's toll-free number is tel. 800/663-5494.
Call both Air New Zealand and Air Pacific and
say you want the lowest possible fare. Cheapest
are the excursion fares but these usually have
limitations and restrictions, so be sure to ask.
Some have an advance-purchase deadline,
which means it's wise to begin shopping early. If
you're not happy with the answers you get, call
back later and try again. Many different agents
take calls on these lines, and some are more
knowledgeable than others. The numbers are
often busy during peak business hours, so call
first thing in the morning, after dinner, or on the
weekend. Be persistent.
After you've heard what the airlines have to
say, try the "discounters," specialist travel agen-
cies that deal in bulk and sell seats and rooms at
wholesale prices. Many airlines have more seats
than they can market through normal channels,
so they sell their unused long-haul capacity to
"consolidators" or "bucket shops" at discounts
of 40-50 percent off official tariffs. The discoun-
ters buy tickets on this gray market and pass
along the savings to you. Many such compa-
nies run small ads in the Sunday travel sections
of newspapers like the San Francisco Examiner,
New York Times, and Toronto Star, or in major
entertainment weeklies.
Despite their occasionally shady appearance,
most discounters and consolidators are perfectly
legitimate, and your ticket will probably be is-
sued by the airline itself. Discounted tickets look
exactly the same as regular full-fare tickets but
they're usually nonrefundable. There may also
be penalties if you wish to change your routing or
reservation dates, and they may carry other re-
strictions not associated with the more expensive
fares. Such tickets may not qualify for frequent
flier miles. The rates are competitive, so allow
yourself time to shop around. A few hours spent
on the phone, doing time on hold and asking
questions, will save you money.
Seasons
The date of outbound travel from North America
determines which seasonal fare you'll pay, and
proper advance planning could allow you to
reschedule your vacation slightly to take advan-
tage of a lower fare. The following is Air New
Zealand and Air Pacific's fare season schedule
for flights from North America:
December 30-February 25 — high season
February 26— April 30 — shoulder season
May 1-June 21— low season
June 22-July 23— shoulder season
July 23-September 2— low season
September 3-December 7— shoulder season
December 8-December 16 — high season
December 1 7-December 29— peak season
Air New Zealand and Air Pacific have made
March to November— the top months in Fiji—
their off-season because that's winter in Aus-
tralia and New Zealand. If you're only going to Fiji
and can make it at that time, it certainly works to
your advantage.
Copyrighted material
108 ON THE ROAD
For travel originating in New Zealand, the fare
seasons are as follows:
January 17-January 30— shoulder season
January 31-March 31— low season
April 1-June 1 5— shoulder season
June 16— July 23— high season
July 24-September 7 — shoulder season
September 8-October 10 — high season
October 1 1 -November 1 1— low season
November 12-December 2— shoulder season
December 3-January 16— high season
Call the airline to verify this information, as these
things do change.
Travel Agents
Pick your agent carefully as many don't want to
hear about discounts, cheap flights, or compli-
cated routes, and will give wrong or misleading
information. If you can find a local travel agent or
"packager" who resells discounted tickets ob-
tained from major flight consolidators, who've
done well. Considerable consumer protection
is obtained by paying by credit card.
Once you've done a deal with an agent and
have your ticket in hand, call the airline again
using their toll-free reservations number to check
that your flight bookings and seat reservations
are okay. If you got a really cheap fare, make
sure the agent booked you in the same class of
service as is printed on your ticket. For example,
if you've got a K-coded ticket but your agent
was only able to get a higher B-code booking,
you could be denied boarding at the airport (in
fact, few agents would risk doing something like
this). An unscrupulous agent might also tell you
that you're free to change your return reserva-
tions when in fact you're not.
Discover Wholesale Travel (949 South
Coast Dr., Suite 450. Costa Mesa. CA 92626,
U.S.A.; tel. 800/576-7770 or 949/833-1 136) sells
discounted air tickets and offers rock-bottom
rates on rooms at top hotels. They sometimes
have significantly lower fares for passengers
booking within two weeks of departure ("dis-
tressed seats"). All of Discovers staff have been
selling the South Pacific for at least 10 years.
Flight Coordinators (2950 31st St.. Suite
140, Santa Monica, CA 90405, U.S.A.; tel.
800/544-3644, fax 800/581-5620, website:
www.flightcoordinators.oom) has a website which
lists exact airfares to Fiji from points all across the
United States. A visit here will let you know how
inexpensive the tickets can get.
Some of the cheapest round-trip tickets to Fiji
are sold by Fiji Travel (8885 Venice Blvd., Suite
202, Los Angeles, CA 90034, U.S.A.: tel.
800/500-3454 or 310/202-4220, fax 310/202-
8233, website: www.fijitravel.com). They make
their money through high volume, and to attract
customers they keep their profit margins as low
as possible. Thus you should absorb the air-
line's time with all your questions about fare sea-
sons, schedules, etc., and only call consolidators
like Fiji Travel and Discover Wholesale Travel
after you know exactly what you want and how
much everyone else is charging.
For circle-Pacific or round-the-world fares try
High Adventure Travel (www.airtreks.com) and
Air Brokers International (www.airbrokers.com),
both based in San Francisco.
A Canadian travel agent to try is the Adven-
ture Centre (25 Bellair St., Toronto, Ontario
M5R 3L3, Canada; tel. 800/267-3347 or
416/922-7584, fax 416/922-8136, website:
www.theadventurecentre.com) with offices in
Calgary, Edmonton, and Vancouver. Similar tick-
ets are available in the U.S. from the Adven-
ture Center (1311 63rd St., Suite 200,
Emeryville, CA 94608, U.S.A.; tel. 800/228-8747
or 510/654-1879, fax 510/654-4200, website.
www.adventurecenter.com).
Internet Bookings
For an exact fare quote you can book instantly
online, simply access an online travel agency.
You type in your destination and travel dates,
then watch as the site's system searches its
database for the lowest fare. You may be of-
fered complicated routings at odd hours, but
you'll certainly get useful information. You can
also sign up to be notified by email when a spe-
cial deal to your destination becomes available.
Try a couple of sites for comparison, such as
Microsoft Expedia (www.expedia.com), One-
travel.com (http://air.onetravel.com), Sabre Trav-
elocity (www.travelocity.com). TicketPlanet.com
(www.ticketplanet.com). and Trip.com (www.
thetrip.com). These companies are aimed at the
North American market, so if you live in Europe,
turn to Flights.com (www.flights.com) in Frank-
Copy righted material
GETTING THERE 109
furt, Germany. In Australia it's Travel.com.au
(www.travel.com.au) and Flightcentre.com
(www.flightcentre.com.au). Flightcentre.com links
to similar sites in Canada, New Zealand, and the
United Kingdom, while Travel.com.au has part-
ners in New Zealand, Japan, and South Africa.
Many more online agencies are listed on www.
etn.nl.
At all of these sites, you'll be asked to pay by
credit card over their secure server. If that idea
worries you, look for a local packager willing to
order online on your behalf. Since you'll have
already checked the price yourself, you'll know if
you're getting a good deal. Let your agent sur-
prise you by finding an even lower online fare.
After all, they should know this business better
than you.
Student Fares
If you're a student, recent graduate, or teacher,
you can sometimes benefit from lower student
fares by booking through a student travel office.
There are two rival organizations of this kind:
Council Travel Services, with offices in college
towns across the United States and a sister or-
ganization in Canada known as Travel Cuts;
and STA Travel (Student Travel Australia) with a
wholesale division known as the Student Travel
Network. Both organizations require you to pay
a nominal fee for an official student card, and
to get the cheapest fares you have to prove
you're really a student. Slightly higher fares on
the same routes are available to nonstudents, so
they're always worth checking.
STA Travel (www.sta-travel.com) offers special
airfares for students and young people under 26
years old with minimal restrictions. Their prices on
round-trip fares to Fiji are competitive, but they
don't sell more complicated tickets to a number of
points (standard routings like Los Angeles-Fiji-
Auckland-Sydney-Bangkok-London-Los Ange-
les are their style). Call their toll-free number (tel.
800/781-4040) for the latest information.
Different student fares are available from
Council Travel Services (tel. 800/226-8624,
website: www.counciltravel.com), a division of
the nonprofit Council on International Educa-
tional Exchange (CIEE). Both they and Travel
Cuts (www.travelcuts.com) in Canada are stricter
about making sure you're a "real" student: you
must first obtain the widely recognized Interna-
tional Student Identity Card (US$22) to get a
ticket at the student rate. Some fares are limited
to students and youths under 26 years of age,
but part-time students and teachers also qualify.
Circle-Pacific and round-the-world routings are
also available from Council Travel Services, and
there are special connecting flights to Los An-
geles from other U.S. points.
Bula Fiji Starter Packs
If you book air only and would like the security a
reserved room in which to recover from jetlag
and get your bearings, Fiji For Less
(www.fiji4less.com) offers a variety of "starter
packs" that provide a transfer from Nadi Airport
plus two nights accommodations at a budget
Lautoka area or Coral Coast hotel such as
Saweni Beach Apartments or Tubakula Beach
Resort. Both resorts offer cooking facilities, and
a few basic groceries are included to allow you to
prepare your own breakfast without having to
go out shopping. They'll even change money at
bank rates without commission, and free lug-
gage storage is available.
Since Fiji For Less accepts only direct book-
ings over the internet or by fax, and pays no com-
missions to wholesalers or travel agents, they're
able to keep their prices low. The two-night trans-
fer/bed packages to Tubakula offer the choice of
staying in a dormitory, private room, or ocean-
view bungalow. Prices at Saweni are slightly
cheaper; the same deal is offered to the Cathay
Hotel in Lautoka, if you'd rather be in a town.
Check the Fiji For Less website for current
information. To book, send a fax to 679/308-
646 in Fiji or 310/362-8493 in the United States
stating your name, address, and contact infor-
mation (phone, fax, or email) a few days before
you leave for Fiji. Say which type of accommo-
dations you prefer and give your flight details
(remember the international dateline). In order
have a driver waiting at the airport, they'll need a
credit card authorization. Confirmation will be
faxed or emailed to you within 48 hours. The
United Touring Company (UTC) at Nadi Inter-
national Airport handles direct Bula Fiji book-
ings and transfers.
Current Trends
High operating costs have caused the larger air-
lines to switch to wide-bodied aircraft and long-
Copy righted material
110 ON THE ROAD
haul routes with less frequent service and fewer
stops. In the South Pacific this works to your
disadvantage, as even major destinations like
Fiji get bypassed. Most airlines now charge extra
for stopovers that once were free, or simply
refuse to grant any stopovers at all on the cheap-
est fares.
Increasingly airlines are combining in global al-
liances to compete internationally. Qantas is part of
the "Oneworkf family (www.onewor1dalliance.com)
comprising American Airlines. British Airways.
Cathay Pacific, and Lan Chile, while Air New
Zealand is a member of the "Star Alliance"
(www.star-alliance.com) of Ansett Australia, Unit-
ed Airlines, Air Canada. Lufthansa. SAS, Singapore
Airlines, Thai, All Nippon, and others. This is to
your advantage as frequent flier programs are usu-
ally interchangeable within the blocks, booking be-
comes easier, flight schedules are coordinated,
and through fares exist.
It's now possible to design some extremely
wide-ranging trips by combining the networks
of the two competing groups. For example,
Oneworld's Global Explorer allows 28,500 miles
travel and six free stops selected from over 400
destinations worldwide. A similar fare available
only in the South Pacific and Europe is Star Al-
liance's World Navigator. Ask the airlines about
these tickets.
Air New Zealand offices in North America sell
a World Escapade valid for a round-the-world
journey on Air New Zealand, Ansett Australia,
Singapore Airlines, and South African Airways.
You're allowed 29,000 miles with unlimited stops
at US$2,883. One transatlantic and one transpa-
cific journey must be included, but the ticket is
valid one year and backtracking is allowed.
Air New Zealand's Pacific Escapade pro-
vides a circle-Pacific trip on Air New Zealand,
Ansett Australia, and Singapore Airlines. With
this one you get 22,000 miles at USS2.600 with
all the stops you want (maximum of three each in
Australia and New Zealand). You'll have to tran-
sit Singapore, and travel must begin in either
Los Angeles or Vancouver (no add-ons). On
both Escapades, should you go over the allow-
able mileage, 4,500 extra miles are US$300.
Reservation changes are free the first time but
extra after that.
Northwest Airlines in conjunction with Air New
Zealand offers a Circle-Pacif ic fare of US$2,928
from Los Angeles with add-on airfares available
from other North American cities. This ticket al-
lows four free stopovers in Asia and the South
Pacific, additional stops US$75 each. To reissue
or revalidate the ticket or to change dates also
costs US$75. It's valid six months but you must
travel in a continuous circle without any back-
tracking. Air Pacific also has a Circle-Pacific
fare, so compare.
AIR SERVICES
From North America
Air New Zealand and Air Pacific are the major
carriers serving Fiji out of Los Angeles. Air Pacific
flies nonstop from Los Angeles to Nadi five times
a week (10.5 hours) and from Honolulu three
times a week (six hours).
Air Pacific also flies from Vancouver to Fiji
via Honolulu twice a week. Air New Zealand
passengers originating in Canada must change
planes in Honolulu or Los Angeles.
From Los Angeles, a seven to 30-day round-
trip ticket to Fiji on Air Pacific is US$1 ,01 8/1 ,208/
1 ,478/1 ,528 low/shoulder/high/peak season.
From Honolulu it's exactly US$200 cheaper.
These are the midweek fares— weekend de-
partures are US$70 more expensive— and some
restrictions apply.
Air New Zealand
In the 1950s Air New Zealand pioneered its
uorai Houte using boient flying boats, and today
the carrier dominates long-haul air routes into
the region by allowing stopovers in Tahiti, Cook
Islands, and Fiji as part of through services be-
tween North America and New Zealand. Air New
Zealand operates three nonstop Los Angeles to
Nadi flights a week, and one Coral Route island
hopper. Yet despite Air New Zealand's frequent
services, travelers in Europe and North America
sometimes have difficulty booking seats and it's
advisable to reserve well ahead.
Round-trip tickets to Fiji on Air New Zealand
usually cost exactly the same as on Air Pacific.
Ask for the "No Stop Apex," which is US$978/
1 ,208/1 ,478/1 ,528 if you leave Los Angeles at
the beginning of the week (US$200 cheaper
from Honolulu). To set out on Thursday, Friday,
Saturday, or Sunday costs US$70 more. The
Copyrighted material
GETTING THERE 1 1 1
I
Q
Honolulu
AIR PACIFIC
FLIGHT ROUTES
Los
Angeles
Honiara
Brisbane
[noi II) S( m i )
Sydney
Melbourne
Auckland
Wellington
Christchurch
maximum stay is one month and you must pay at
least one month before departure (50 percent
cancellation penalty).
If you want to include a bit more of the South
Pacific in your trip, consider Air New Zealand's
"Coral Experience," which allows one stop plus
your destination with additional stops available at
US$150 each. Thus you can fly Los Angeles-
Tahiti-Rarotonga-Fiji-Los Angeles for US$1 ,128/
1 ,358/1 ,628/1 ,678 low/shoulder/high/peak sea-
son if you leave at the beginning of the week
for a trip of three months maximum. Add US$1 50
if wish to extend your period of stay to six
months, plus another US$70 if you'd like to set
out on Thursday, Friday, Saturday, or Sunday.
Drop either Tahiti or Rarotonga from your itiner-
ary and you'll save US$150. Trips originating in
Honolulu are US$200 cheaper in all cases. Re-
member that the "Coral Experience" must be
purchased 14 days in advance and there's a
US$75 penalty to change your flight dates. A
35 percent cancellation fee also applies after
the 14-day ticket deadline.
For a more wide-ranging trip with fewer re-
strictions, check out Air New Zealand's "Coral
Explorer Airpass," which costs US$1 ,938/2,21 8/
2,488/2,538 low/shoulder/high/peak season. This
worthwhile ticket allows you to fly Los Angeles-
Tahiti-Rarotonga-Fiji-Auckland-Tongatapu/Apia-
Los Angeles or vice versa. Extend the ticket to
Australia for US$100 more; eliminate Auckland-
Tongatapu/Apia and it's about US$100 less.
Begin in Honolulu and it's US$200 less again.
You can stay up to one year but rerouting costs
US$75 (date changes are free). There's no ad-
vance purchase requirement and you can fly any
day. To follow exactly the same routing minus
one stop on a six-month "Coral Experience" with
all its restrictions costs US$1 ,778/2.058/
2,328/2,378.
In Canada, Air New Zealand calls the same
fares by different names: the "No Stop Apex" is
the "Shotover Fare" while the "Coral Experience"
is the "Bungy Fare" (but the "Explorer is still the
"Explorer"). The cheaper "Backpacker Dow-
nunder" fare from Canada must be purchased 14
days in advance and does not cover hotel ex-
penses due to flight misconnections. On most Air
New Zealand tickets special "add-on" fares to
Los Angeles or Vancouver are available from
cities right across the U.S. and Canada — be
sure to ask about them.
Air New Zealand's cabin service is profes-
sional, and you'll like the champagne breakfasts
and outstanding food with complimentary beer
and wine. Another plus are the relaxing seats
with adjustable head rests and lots of leg room.
The Life in Pacifica videos about their destina-
tions are entertaining the first time you see them,
but after a while you might get bored. The only
reading material provided is the Panorama in-
flight magazine, the Skyshop duty free catalog,
laterial
112 ON THE ROAD
AlKrUKT LUDtb
Akl Anrkhnrl
Mf\L — MUCKianu
lc v — LevuKa
oca — oGame
APW Ama/Palonln
1 l/D 1 a l, 0 k a
oru — oan rrancisco
RMP Rrichanp
MPI Molhrii irno
IVICL — IVIolUUUIIIfc}
CIN1 Qinn^r^rtfo
oiiN — oingapore
PHP. Phrictrhi irrh
MP 1 Mnala
Mr j — Moaia
ouv — ouva
i-ui — Apiayhagam
iviiNr — Maria
SVU — Savusavu
O IM Ci mid iti
MAM M->Wi
nan- Naai
oYU — oyaney
U I Q Hon ip ra.
nin iiv/iiiciict
Mr;! Hai i
T"D 1 1 Tr~»r\ n r» ♦ r\i i
i dvj — i unydidpu
HNI Honolulu
liuU l\IUUmfc!cl
1 rtVV — 1 didWd
ipi Cir\a
L/ICId
flQA AralfQ
UoM — USaKd
i vu — i aveuni
IMI 1 Nauru
IINU — INdUnj
POM Port Morochw
rUM — rOn MOreSDy
1 YU — 1 oKyo
lrV> CdbltM IbldllU
ppri Panrt Pann
r ro — i ago r agu
V/PV Wanna Ralaxni
VDV — VdnUd DdldVU
II |p K|i| ,Q
IUl fNIUU
DDT Dinnnfn
r r i — rapeeie
V/l 1 Dnrt \/ilo
vli — "on vna
KDV— Kadavu
PTF— Malololailai
WLG — Wellington
KXF-Koro
RAR— Rarotonga
WLS— Wallis
LAX-Los Angeles
RTA— Rotuma
YVR— Vancouver
LBS — Labasa
SCL— Santiago
YYZ— Toronto
and the Primetime entertainment magazine.
These are unlikely to hold your attention for long,
so bring along a book or magazine of your own
(the daily newspaper is provided only to pas-
sengers in first class).
From Australia
Air Pacific offers nonstop flights to Nadi from
Brisbane, Melbourne, and Sydney (all Qantas
flights to Fiji are now operated by Air Pacific
planes). From Sydney, Air Pacific also has direct
flights to Suva. Ansett Australia operates a twice-
weekly nonstop service from Sydney to Nadi.
Air New Zealand is competing fiercely in the
Australian market, and they offer competitive
fares to many South Pacific points via Auckland.
You can usually get a better price by work-
ing through an agent specializing in bargain air-
fares rather than buying at the airline office itself.
The airlines sometimes offer specials during the
off months, so check the travel sections in the
weekend papers and call Flight Centres Inter-
national and STA Travel.
Apex (advance purchase excursion) tickets
must be bought 14 days in advance and heavy
cancellation penalties apply. The low season
ex-Australia is generally mid-January to June
and October to November. Shop around as you
can often find much better deals than the pub-
lished Apex fares, especially during off months.
From New Zealand
Both Air New Zealand and Air Pacific fly from
Auckland to Nadi daily, and Air Pacific also flies
from Christchurch and Wellington to Nadi and
from Auckland to Suva. Unrestricted low airfares
to Fiji can be hard to come by and some tickets
have advance purchase requirements, so start
shopping well ahead. Ask around at a number of
different travel agencies for special unadvertised
or under-the-counter fares. Agents to call include
STA Travel and Flight Centres International.
Air New Zealand offers reduced excursion
fares from Auckland to Fiji with a maximum stay
of 90 days at NZ$935/ 1,026/ 1,1 17 low/shoul-
der/high season (see Seasons above for the ap-
plicable dates). Seasonal specials are regularly
available. It's often cheaper to buy a package
tour to the islands with airfare, accommodations,
and transfers all included, but these are usually
limited to seven nights on one island and you're
stuck in a boring tourist-oriented environment.
Ask if you can extend your return date.
From Europe
Since no European earners reach Fiji, you'll have
to use a gateway city such as Los Angeles, Hon-
olulu. Sydney, or Singapore. Air New Zealand of-
fers daily nonstop flights London-Los Angeles,
with connections in Los Angeles direct to Fiji
three times a week. Similarly, Lufthansa's Frank-
Copyrighted material
GETTING THERE 113
furt-Los Angeles and Munich-Los Angeles flights
code share with Air New Zealand's nonstop
flights between Los Angeles and Nadi. This
means that European passengers can fly to Fiji
from London or Germany with only one change
of aircraft (at Los Angeles).
Air New Zealand reservations numbers around
Europe are tel. 03/202-1355 (Belgium), tel.
0800/907-712 (France), tel. 0800/181-7778 (Ger-
many), tel. 800/876-126 (Italy), tel. 0800-2527
(Luxembourg), tel. 0800/022-1016 (Netherlands),
tel. 900/993241 (Spain), tel. 020/792-939 (Swe-
den), tel. 0800/557-778 (Switzerland), and tel.
020/8741-2299 (United Kingdom). Ask about
their Coral Route fares. Be aware that Air New
Zealand flights can be heavily booked and reser-
vations should be made far in advance.
Also call your local British Airways or Qantas
office and ask what connections they are offering
to Fiji on Air Pacific. It's possible that the disad-
vantage of having to change airlines halfway
may be compensated for by a lower fare.
The British specialist in South Pacific itiner-
aries is Trailfinders (1 Threadneedle St., London
EC2R 8JX, United Kingdom; tel. 020/7628-7628,
website: www.trailfinder.com), in business since
1970. Their nine offices around the United King-
dom and Ireland offer a variety of discounted
round-the-world tickets through Fiji, which are
often much cheaper than the published fares.
It's easy to order a free copy of their magazine
Trailfinder and brochures online.
Bridge the World (47 Chalk Farm Road,
Camden Town, London NW1 8AJ, United King-
dom; tel. 44-20/791 1-0900, fax 44-20/7813-3350,
website: www.bridgetheworld.com) sells dis-
counted tickets which include Fiji, Rarotonga,
Tahiti, and a variety of stops in Asia. Also worth
a try is Tailor Made Travel (18 Port St., Eve-
sham, Worchestershire, WR11 6AN, United
Kingdom; tel. 44-13867712-005, fax 44-1386/712-
071, website: www.tailor-made.co.uk). Check
the ads in the London entertainment magazines
for other such companies.
In Holland Pacific Island Travel (Herengracht
495, 1017 BT Amsterdam, the Netherlands; tel.
31-20/626-1325, fax 31-20/623-0008, website:
www.pacificislandtravel.com) sells most of the
tickets mentioned in this section, plus package
tours. Their website is immense. Barron & De
Keijzer Travel (Herengracht 340, 1016 CG Am-
sterdam, the Netherlands; tel. 31-20/625-8600,
website: www.barron.nl) also specializes in the
Pacific islands and their website quotes exact
flight prices! Also in Amsterdam, Reisbureau
Amber (Da Costastraat 77, 1053 ZG Amster-
dam, the Netherlands; tel. 31-20/685-1 155, fax
31-20/689-0406) is one of the best places in Eu-
rope to pick up books on Fiji.
In Switzerland try Globetrotter Travel Ser-
vice (Rennweg 35, CH-8023 Zurich, Switzer-
land; tel. 41-1/213-8080, fax 41-1/213-8088,
website: www.globetrotter.ch), with offices in
Baden, Basel, Bern. Fribourg, Luzem, Olten, St.
Gallen, Thun, Winterthur, Zug, and Zurich. You
can order a free copy of their magazine, Globe-
trotter, through their website.
Bucket shops in Germany sell a "Pacific Air-
pass" to the South Pacific that allows all the
usual stops and is valid six months. All flights
must be booked prior to leaving Europe, and
there's a charge to change the dates once the
ticket has been issued. One agency selling such
tickets is Walther-Weltreisen (Hirschberger
Strasse 30, D-53119 Bonn, Germany; tel. 49-
228/661-239, fax 49-228/661-181, email:
walther-weltreisen@t-online.de). Check the web-
site of Travel Overland (Barerstr.73, D-80799
Munich, Germany; tel. 49-89/2727-6300, fax 49-
89/3079-8893, website: www.travel-overtand.de)
for round-the-world tickets via Fiji.
The Pacific Travel House (Bayerstrasse 95, D-
80335 Munchen; tel. 49-89/530-9293, website:
www.pacific-travel-house.com) offers a variety of
upscale package tours. Similar is Art of Travel
(Isartorplatz 1 , D-80331 Munich, Germany; tel.
49-89/211-0760, fax 49-89/2110-7621, website:
www.artoftravel.de). Schoner Tauchen (Hast-
edter Heerstr. 211, D-28207 Bremen; tel. 49-
421/450-010, fax 49-421/450-080, website: www.
schoener-tauchen.com) specializes in dive tours to
Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and Vanuatu.
In Austria the South Pacific specialist is Coco
Weltweit Reisen (Eduard-Bodem-Gasse 8, A-
6020 Innsbruck; tel. 43-512/365-791, fax 43-
512/365791-7, website: www.coco-tours.at).
REGIONAL AIRLINES
Aside from Air New Zealand, Air Pacific, Ansett
Australia, Qantas, and Korean Air, a number of
Copyrighted material
114 ON THE ROAD
regional carriers fly to and from Fiji. Samoa's
Polynesian Airlines (tel. 800/264-0823) arrives
from Apia three times a week. Aircalin (tel.
800/677-4277) flies to Fiji from Noumea and
Wallis. From Fiji, Air Fiji flies north to Funafuti in
Tuvalu and east to Tongatapu. Air Nauru (tel.
800/677-4277) flies to Nadi from Nauru and
Tarawa once or twice a week. Royal Tongan
Airlines has flights to Nadi from Tongatapu three
times a week. Air Vanuatu (tel. 800/677-4277)
arrives from Port Vila. Solomon Airlines (tel.
800/677-4277) links Fiji to Honiara and Port Vila.
Korean Air (tel. 800/438-5000) arrives from
Seoul three times a week. Keep in mind that
few regional flights operate daily and many are
only once or twice a week.
Regional Air Passes
In 1995 the Association of South Pacific Airlines
introduced a Visit South Pacific Pass to coincide
with "Visit South Pacific Year
and the pass has been so
successful that the Associa-
tion decided to extend it in-
definitely. This pass allows
travelers to include the ser-
vices of 10 regional carriers
in a single ticket valid six
months. The initial two-leg air pass has to be pur-
chased in conjunction with an international ticket
into the region, but additional legs up to a maxi-
mum of eight can be purchased after arrival. Only
the first sector has to be booked ahead.
The flights are priced at three different lev-
els. For US$190 per sector you can go Fiji-
Apia/Tongatapu/Port Vila, Tongatapu-Apia/Niue,
or Noumea-Port Vila. For US$240 you have a
choice of Honiara-Nadi/Port Vila/Port Moresby,
Fiji-Nauru/Tarawa/Noumea, or a variety of flights
from Australia and New Zealand to the islands.
For US$340 there's Tahiti-Noumea, Sydney-
Tongatapu/Apia, or Fiji-Port Moresby. It's a great
way of getting around the South Pacific.
Airlines which should know about this ticket in-
clude Air Pacific, Polynesian Airlines, Qantas,
Royal Tongan Airlines, and Solomon Airlines,
so call them up on the toll-free 800 numbers
provided earlier. Also try Air Promotions Sys-
tems (5757 West Century Blvd., Suite 660, Los
Angeles, CA 90045-6407, U.S.A.; tel. 800/677-
4277 or 310/670-7302, fax 310/338-0708).
Air Pacific
Air Pacific has two different Pacific Triangle
Fares, good ways to experience the region's va-
riety of cultures: Fiji-Apia-Tonga-Fiji (US$461)
and Fiji-Noumea-Port Vila-Fiji (F$809). Both are
valid for one year and can be purchased at any
travel agency in Fiji or direct from the airline.
Flight dates can be changed at no charge, but
they're usually valid only for journeys commenc-
ing in Fiji. When booking these circular tickets, be
aware that it's much better to go Fiji-Apia-Tonga-
Fiji than vice versa, because the flights between
Apia and Fiji are often fully booked while it's easy
to get on between Tonga and Fiji. Also obtainable
locally are Air Pacific's special 28-day round-trip
excursion fares from Fiji to Apia (F$645), Port
Vila (F$606), and Honiara (F$1,098). Some of
these fares have seasonal variations.
A Pacific Air Pass allows 30 days travel (on
Air Pacific flights only) from Fiji to Apia, Tonga,
and Port Vila (US$462). This
pass can only be purchased
from Qantas Airways offices
in North America and Europe,
or from Air Pacific's U.S. of-
fice (Suite 475, 841 Apollo
St., El Segundo, CA 90245-
4741, U.S.A.; tel. 800/227-
4446 or 310/524-9350, fax 310/524-9356). Also
available in North America only is the Fiji/Van-
uatu/Solomons Triangle Fare, which allows
you 60 days to go around this circuit at US$648.
Otherwise a six to 30-day Nadi-Honiara excur-
sion fare is F$1 ,1 53. sold worldwide.
Polynesian Airlines
Polynesian Airlines (www.polynesianairlines
com) offers a Polypass valid for 45 days un-
limited travel between Nadi, Tongatapu, Apia,
and Pago Pago, plus one round-trip from Sydney,
Melbourne, Auckland, or Wellington for US$999.
From Honolulu the pass costs US$1,198, from
Los Angeles US$1,499. To extend the pass to
Tahiti is US$190 extra. Restrictions are that your
itinerary must be worked out in advance and can
only be changed once. Thus it's important to
book all flights well ahead. A 20 percent penalty
is charged to refund an unused ticket (no refund
after one year).
Also ask about Polynesian's Pacific Trian-
gle Fare (US$395-500 depending on the sea-
GETTING THERE 1 15
son), which allows one a full year to complete the
Nadi-Apia-Tongatapu-Nadi loop.
Air Nauru
Air Nauru (www.airnauru.com.au), flag carrier
of the tiny phosphate-rich Republic of Nauru in
Micronesia, has flights from Nadi to Nauru twice
a week, to Tarawa weekly. From Nauru there
are onward connections to Pohnpei, Guam, and
Manila. An Air Nauru 30-day round-trip excursion
fare from Nadi to Tarawa and Nauru costs FS630
from February to November, or F$810 in De-
cember and January (add A$25 Nauru airport
tax even if you're only in transit). The Air Nauru
office in Ratu Sakuna House, Macarthur St. and
Victoria Parade. Suva, can made the compul-
sory Nauru hotel reservation, beginning at
A$45/60Y70 single/double/triple per night. It's an
interesting sidetrip. worth considering.
Important Note
Airfares, rules, and regulations tend to fluctuate
a lot, so some of the information above may
have changed. This is only a guide; we've in-
cluded a range of fares to give you a rough idea
how much things might cost. Your travel agent
will know what's available at the time you're
ready to travel, but if you're not satisfied with
his/her advice, keep shopping around. The
biggest step is deciding to go — once you're over
that, the rest is easy!
PROBLEMS
When planning your trip allow a minimum two-
hour stopover between connecting flights at U.S.
airports, although with airport delays on the in-
crease even this may not be enough. In the is-
lands allow at least a day between flights. Try to
avoid flying on weekends and holidays when
the congestion is at its worst. In some airports
flights are not called over the public address
system, so keep your eyes open. Whenever
traveling, always have a paperback or two, some
toiletries, and a change of underwear in your
hand luggage.
If your flight is canceled due to mechanical
problems with the aircraft, the airline will cover
your hotel bill and meals. If they reschedule the
flight on short notice for reasons of their own or
you're bumped off an overbooked flight, they
should also pay. They may not feel obligated to
pay, however, if the delay is due to weather con-
ditions, a strike by another company, national
emergencies, etc., although the best airlines still
pick up the tab in these cases.
It's an established practice among airlines to
provide light refreshments to passengers de-
layed two hours after the scheduled departure
time and a meal after four hours. Don't expect to
get this from Air Fiji or Sun Air at some outer is-
land airport, but politely request it if you're at a
gateway airport. If you are unexpectedly forced
to spend the night somewhere, an airline em-
ployee may hand you a form on which they offer
to telephone a friend or relative to inform them of
the delay. Don't trust them to do this, however.
Call your party yourself if you want to be sure
they get the message.
Overbooking
To compensate for no-shows, most airlines over-
book their flights. To avoid being bumped, ask for
your seat assignment when booking, check in
early, and go to the departure area well before
flight time. Of course, if you are bumped by a
reputable international airline at a major airport
you'll be regaled with free meals and lodging
and sometimes even free flight vouchers or cash
payments (don't expect anything like this from Air
Fiji or Sun Air).
Whenever you break your journey for more
than 72 hours, reconfirm your onward reserva-
tions and check your seat assignment at the
same time. Get the name of the person who
takes your reconfirmation so they cannot later
deny it. Failure to reconfirm could result in the
cancellation of your complete remaining itinerary.
This could also happen if you miss a flight for any
reason. If you want special vegetarian or kosher
food in-flight, request it when buying your ticket,
booking, and reconfirming.
When you try to reconfirm your Air New
Zealand flight the agent will tell you that this for-
mality is no longer required. Theoretically this
is true, but unless you request your seat as-
signment in advance, either at an Air New
Zealand office or over the phone, you could be
"bumped" from a full flight, reservation or no
reservation. Air New Zealand's ticket cover bears
this surprising message:
Copyrighted material
116 ON THE ROAD
. . . no guarantee of a seat on a particular
flight is indicated by the terms "reservation, "
"booking, " "O.K. "status, or the times asso-
ciated therewith.
They do admit in the same notice that confirmed
passengers denied seats are eligible for com-
pensation, so if you're not in a hurry, a night or
two at an upmarket hotel with all meals cour-
tesy of Air New Zealand may not be a hardship.
Your best insurance if you don't want to get
"bumped" is to request seat assignments for
your entire itinerary before you leave home, or at
least at the Air New Zealand office in Nadi or
Suva. Any good travel agent selling tickets on Air
New Zealand should know enough to automati-
cally request your seat assignments as they
make your bookings. Check Air New Zealand's
reconfirmation policy as it could change.
International airlines allow economy-class pas-
sengers either 20 kilos of baggage or two pieces
not over 32 kilos each (ask which applies to you).
Under the piece system, neither bag may have a
combined length, width, and height of over 158
centimeters (62 inches) and the two pieces to-
gether must not exceed 272 centimeters (107
inches). On most long-haul tickets to/from North
America or Europe, the piece system applies to all
sectors, but check this with the airline. The fre-
quent flier programs of some major airlines allow
participants to carry up to 10 kilos of excess bag-
gage free of charge. Both commuter carriers in Fiji
restrict you to 20 kilos total, so pack according
to the lowest common denominator. Overweight
luggage costs one percent of the full 1 st class
fare per kilogram — watch out, this can be a lot!
Bicycles, folding kayaks, and surfboards can
usually be checked as baggage (sometimes for
an additional US$50-1 00 charge), but sailboards
may have to be shipped airfreight. If you do trav-
el with a sailboard, be sure to call it a surfboard
at check-in.
Tag your bag with name, address, and phone
number inside and out. Stow anything that could
conceivably be considered a weapon (scissors,
penknife, toy gun, mace, etc.) in your checked
luggage. One reason for lost baggage is that
some people fail to remove used baggage tags
after they claim their luggage. Get into the habit
of tearing off old baggage tags, unless you want
your luggage to travel in the opposite direction!
As you're checking in, look to see if the three-let-
ter city codes on your baggage tag receipt and
boarding pass are the same. If you're headed to
Nadi the tag should read NAN (Suva is SUV).
If your baggage is damaged or doesn't arrive
at your destination, inform the airline officials
immediately and have them fill out a written re-
port; otherwise future claims for compensation
will be compromised. Airlines usually reimburse
out-of-pocket expenses if your baggage is lost or
delayed over 24 hours. The amount varies, and
your chances of getting it are better if you're po-
lite but firm. Keep receipts for any money you're
forced to spend to replace missing articles. If
you notice that a bag has been mysteriously
patched up with tape since you last saw it, care-
fully examine the contents right away. This could
be a sign that baggage handlers have pilfered
items from inside, and you must report the theft
before leaving the customs hall in order to be
eligible for compensation.
Claims for lost luggage can take weeks to
process. Keep in touch with the airline to show
your concern and hang on to your baggage tag
until the matter is resolved. If you feel you did not
receive the attention you deserved, write the air-
line an objective letter outlining the case. Get
the names of the employees you're dealing with
so you can mention them in the letter. Of course,
don't expect any pocket money or compensation
on a remote outer island. Report the loss, then
wait till you get back to their main office. What-
ever happens, try to avoid getting angry. The
people you're dealing with don't want the prob-
lem any more than you do.
BY BOAT
Even as much Pacific shipping was being sunk
during World War II, airstrips were springing up
on the main islands. This hastened the inevitable
replacement of the old steamships with modem
aircraft, and it's now extremely rare to arrive in Fiji
by boat (private yachts excepted). Most islands
export similar products and there's little interre-
gional trade; large container ships headed for
Australia, New Zealand, and Japan don't usual-
ly accept passengers.
Copyrighted material
GETTING THERE 117
Those bitten by nostalgia for the slower prewar
ways may like to Know that a couple of passen-
ger-carrying freighters do still call at Fiji, though
their fares are much higher than those charged by
the airlines A specialized agency booking such
passages is TravLtips (P.O. Box 580188, Flush-
ing, NY 1 1358, U.S.A.; tel. 800/872-8584, web-
site: www.travltips.com). They can place you
aboard a British-registered Bank Line container
ship on its way around the world from Europe
via the Panama Canal, Papeete, Samoa,
Noumea, Suva, Lautoka, Port Vila, Santo, Ho-
niara, and Papua New Guinea. A round-the-world
ticket for the four-month journey is US$12,725,
but segments are sold if space is available 30
days before sailing. Insurance regulations limit the
number of passengers aboard ship to 12 at a
time. Similarly, TravLtips books German-regis-
tered Columbus Line vessels, which make 45-day
round-trips between Los Angeles and Australia
via Suva. These ships can accommodate only
about a dozen passengers, so inquire well in ad-
vance. Also ask about passenger accommoda-
tion on cargo vessels of the Blue Star Line, which
sometimes call at Suva and Noumea between
Los Angeles and Auckland.
Tourist Cruises
Blue Lagoon Cruises Ltd. (P.O. Box 130, Lau-
toka, Fiji; tel. 663-938, fax 664-098, website:
www.bluelagooncruises.com) has been offer-
ing upmarket minicruises from Lautoka to the
Yasawa Islands since its founding by Captain
Trevor Withers in 1950. The two-night trips (from
F$1,100) and three-night trips (from FS1.650)
leave twice a week, while the six-night cruise
(from F$2,981) is weekly. Prices are per per-
son, double occupancy, and include meals (ex-
cluding alcohol), entertainment, shore excur-
sions, and tax (no additional "port charges" and
no tipping). We quote the low season fare, but
peak season costs 30 percent more (the com-
plicated price structure depends on the day and
month of departure). "A" deck is about 1 5 percent
more expensive than "B" deck, but you have the
railing right outside your cabin door instead of a
locked porthole window. On the shorter cruises
Blue Lagoon uses older three-deck. 40-pas-
senger vessels, while larger four-deck, 60-pas-
senger mini-cruise ships are used on the longer
voyages. Since 1996 the 72-passenger, US$8-
million luxury cruiser Mystique Princess has op-
erated three-night trips from F$2,156 twice a
week. The meals are often beach barbecue af-
fairs, with Fijian dancing. You'll have plenty of op-
portunities to snorkel in the calm, crystal-clear
waters (bring your own gear). Blue Lagoon Cruis-
es also offers occasional six-night cultural cruis-
es to Levuka, Savusavu, and Taveuni. Though a
bit expensive, these trips have a good reputation.
There are almost daily departures year-round,
but reservations are essential.
Captain Cook Cruises (P.O. Box 23, Nadi,
Fiji; tel. 701-823, fax 702-045, website: www.capt-
cookcrus.com.au), on Narewa Road near the
bridge into Nadi town, is also recommended.
Like Blue Lagoon Cruises they offer unpreten-
tious three/four-night cruises to the Yasawa Is-
lands aboard the 63-meter MV Reef Escape, de-
parting Nadi Tuesday and Saturday. The 60 dou-
ble-occupancy cabins begin at F$1, 188/1 ,584
pp twin with bunk beds or F$1 ,404/1 ,872 with
normal beds. The two itineraries vary somewhat,
and there's a discount if you do both in succes-
sion. The Reef Escape is the largest cruise ship
based in Fiji, formerly used for cruises along
Australia's Great Barrier Reef. The food is good,
cabins bright, activities and entertainment fun,
and there's even a miniature swimming pool and
spa! Most of your fellow passengers will be Aus-
tralians, which can be stimulating, and the Fijian
staff will spoil you silly.
In addition. Captain Cook Cruises operates
two/tnree-nignt cruises to tne soutnem Yasawas
on the topsail schooner Spirit of the Pacific— a
more romantic choice than the mini-cruise ships.
These trips depart Nadi every Monday and Thurs-
day morning and cost F$5407684 pp for two/three
nights (children under 12 not accepted). You
sleep ashore in double bure, the food is good
with lots of fresh vegetables and salads, and the
staff friendly and well organized. Captain Cook
Cruises also sometimes uses the 34-meter
square-rigged brigantine Ra Marama on these
trips. It's a fine vessel built of teak planks in Sin-
gapore in 1 957 for a former governor-general of
Fiji. These trips can be booked through most trav-
el agents in Fiji or via the phone numbers above;
readers who've gone report having a great time.
If you're interested in seeing more of the South
Pacific than only Fiji, visit the website of Cruise
West (2401 4th Ave., Suite 700, Seattle, WA
Copyrighted material
1 18 ON THE ROAD
98121-1438, U.S.A.; tel. 800/888-9378, fax
206/441-4757, website: www.cruisewest.com).
A couple of times a year their flagship, the Spir-
it of Oceanus, does two-week cruises between
Suva and Tahiti, visiting Taveuni, the Yasawas,
and a host of remote islands straight out of Cap-
tain James Cook's journal.
Scuba Cruises
Five live-aboard dive boats ply Fiji waters. A
seven-night stay aboard one of these vessels
could run as high as FS6,500 pp (airfare, alco-
hol, and tax extra), but the boat anchors right
above the dive sites, so no time is wasted com-
muting back and forth. All meals are included
and the diving is unlimited. Singles are usually
allowed to share a cabin with another diver to
avoid a single supplement. Bookings can be made
through any of the scuba wholesalers listed under
Scuba Tours below.
The five-stateroom Sere Ni Wai (or "song of
the sea") is a 30-meter boat based at Suva and
operating around Beqa, Kadavu, Lomaiviti, and
northern Lau. Captain Greg Lawlor's family has
been in Fiji for four generations, but his boat is
new, launched in 1995. If you're already in Fiji, try
calling Mollie Dean Cruises (P.O. Box 3256,
Lami, Fiji; tel. 361-171, fax 361-137, website:
www.sere.com.fj), which books divers on the
Sere Ni Wai locally.
Another famous boat is the 34-meter, eight-
cabin Nai'a which does seven-day scuba cruis-
es to Lomaiviti and northern Lau at FS6.075, or
10 days for F$8,665, tax included. Captain Bob
Barrel and Dive Director Cat Holloway have a
longstanding interest in dolphins and whales,
and whalewatching expeditions to Tonga are
organized annually. Long exploratory voyages
are occasionally made to places as far afield as
Vanuatu and the Phoenix Islands of Kiribati.
Local bookings are accepted when space is
available and you might even be able to swing a
discount. Call Nai'a Cruises (P.O. Box 332,
Deuba, Fiji; tel. 450-382, fax 450-566, website:
www.naia.com.fj). They have an office in the
Cultural Center complex at Pacific Harbor.
Also based at Pacific Harbor is the 18-meter
live-aboard Beqa Princess, operated by Tropical
Expeditions (Charles Wakeham, P.O. Box 129,
Deuba; tel./fax 450-666). The three spacious
a/c cabins accommodate six divers on three-
night cruises to the Beqa Lagoon for around
FS450 pp a day. Get a few friends together and
charter this boat for an unforgettable trip.
In 1998 the American-owned, 32-meter dive
boat Fiji Aggressor (tel. 361-382, fax 362-930,
website: www.pac-aggressor.com) was deployed
to Nadi. The Aggressor's jet-driven launch zips
divers to scuba sites at 30 knots, providing un-
limited diving for 16 divers flown in on packages
from the States. Unlike the eco-friendly Nai'a,
which uses sails to cruise at night, this powerful
catamaran projects an image of brute force.
The 26-meter Princess II (Tropical Dive, tel.
725-116, fax 725-220) has six air-conditioned
cabins. It cruises regularly from Nadi to Taveuni
via Wakaya Passage, Namena, and the Rain-
bow Reef. This boat was formerly called the
Matangi Princess II, and things have improved
since a recent change in ownership.
ORGANIZED TOURS
Packaged Holidays
Any travel agent would prefer to sell you a package
tour rather than just a plane ticket, and it's a fact
CORAL REEF ADVENTURE
Since 1993, the live-aboard Nai'a has been the
flagship of Fiji's diving industry, discovering and
naming many remote sites now regularly visited
by other boats. In addition to Nai'a's regular
cruises around Fiji, Humpback whale tours to
Tonga and scientific expeditions to the shark-in-
fested waters of Kiribati are annual events. Dur-
ing late 2000 and early 2001, the MacGillivray
Freeman Films IMAX production Coral Reef Ad-
venture was filmed in Fiji by Howard Hall, who
selected Nai'a's Cat Holloway and Rob Barrel as
his guides, both topside and underwater. And
Nai'a divemaster Rusi Vulakoro has one of the
starring roles in the film. Nai'a passengers will
recognize their favorite divesites on the giant
screen, as well as the sharks, turtles, manta
rays, sea snakes, gobies, and shrimp that they
have come to love. One of the highlights of every
Nai'a voyage is an afternoon spent in a village on
the island of Gau. So impressed were Howard
and Michelle Hall when they first visited Gau as
Nai'a passengers that the whole village visit is
captured in Coral Reef Adventure.
Copyrighted material
GETTING THERE 119
that some vacation packages actually don't cost
more than regular round-trip airfare! While pack-
aged travel certainly isn't for everyone, reduced
group airfares and discounted hotel rates make
some tours an excellent value. For two people
with limited time and a desire to stay in first-class
hotels, this is the cheapest way to go by far.
The wholesalers who put these packages to-
gether get their rooms at rates far lower than
what individuals pay, and the airlines also give
them deals. If they'll let you extend your return
date to give you some time to yourself, this can
be a great deal, especially with the hotel thrown
in for "free." Special-interest tours are very pop-
ular among sports people who want to be sure
they'll get to participate in the various activities
they enjoy.
The main drawback to the tours is that you're
on a fixed itinerary in a tourist-oriented environ-
ment, out of touch with local life. You may not like
the hotel or meals you get, and singles pay a
healthy supplement. Yet unlike packaged holi-
days to the Caribbean or Hawaii, you probably
won't be stuck in some huge group but will re-
ceive prepaid vouchers you turn in as you go. It's
very rare to be escorted by a tour conductor. A
few of the companies mentioned below do not
accept consumer inquiries and require you to
work through a travel agent. Do check all the
restrictions.
Fiji Travel Warehouse (website: www.
fijitravelwarehouse.com) allows you to bid on
holiday packages to Fiji in three price categories.
It's fun, and by comparing what they offer with
the prices in this book, you'll be able to bid in-
telligently. The Warehouse sells only ground
packages without international flights and no re-
funds are allowed.
Fiji Travel (8885 Venice Blvd., Suite 202, Los
Angeles, CA 90034, U.S.A.; tel. 800/500-3454 or
310/202-4220, fax 310/202-8233, website:
www.fijitravel.com) sells all-inclusive tours to Fi-
ji's top resorts, books Blue Lagoon cruises, and
has surfing/scuba packages. Their cheapest
packages are about the same as regular air-
fare, such as US$1 ,075 for seven nights (double
occupancy) at Coral Village Resort or the Nadi
Mocambo including round-trip flights from Los
Angeles and transfers. If they'll let you extend
your return date to allow some time on your own,
it's a great deal.
A company dealing with all aspects of travel to
Fiji is Fiji Reservations and Travel (Melissa
McCoy, 355 Hukilike St.. Suite 207, Kahului.
Maui. HI 96732, U.S.A.; tel. 800/588-3454 or
808/871-5986. fax 808/893-0138, website:
www.fijireservations.com). Check their website
for surfing, kayaking, and diving tours, plus dis-
counted packages to all the top resorts. They
also arrange house rentals and land purchases.
Sun spots International (1918 N.E. 181st,
Portland. OR 97230, U.S.A.; tel. 800/334-5623 or
503/666-3893, fax 503/661 -7771 , website: www
.sunspotsintl.com) has an informative color
brochure on Fiji, plus a good website. All of their
agents have been to Fiji personally.
Rob Jenneve of Island Adventures (225 C
North Fairview, Goleta, CA 931 17, U.S.A.; tel.
800/289-4957 or 805/685-9230, fax 805/685-
0960, email: motuman@101freeway.com) puts
together customized flight and accommodation
packages, which are only slightly more expen-
sive than regular round-trip airfare. Rob can
steer you toward deluxe resorts, which offer
value for money, and he's willing to spend the
time to help you find what you really want in
planning your trip. According to him, "It's no
problem to vary your nights, extend your re-
turn, or leave some free time in the middle for
spontaneous adventure."
For bookings at upscale hideaways like Turtle
Island and Laucala, you won't go wrong at South
Pacific Holidays (10906 NE 39th St.. Suite A-1 ,
Vancouver. WA 98682-6789, U.S.A.; tel.
877/733-3454 or 360/944-1712, fax 360/253-
3934, website: www.spac.com). Their website is
the best of its kind, providing lots of useful in-
formation, specific prices, and a brochure re-
quest form. Other North American companies
booking package tours to Fiji include:
Destination World, P.O. Box 1077, Santa Bar-
bara, CA 931,02, U.S.A.; tel. 800/707-3454 or
888/345-4669, fax 805/685-3385, website:
www.southpacificgateway.com
Essence Tours, 809 North Sanders Ave.,
Ridgecrest, CA 93555, U.S.A.; teL/fax 760/
375-6871 , website: www.essencetoursfiji.com
Fiji Fantasy Holidays, 207 East Highway 260,
Payson, AZ 85541 , U.S.A.; tel. 877/727-3454,
fax 520/472-2580, website: www.fijifantasyhol
idays.com
Copyrighted material
120 ON THE ROAD
Goway Travel, 5865 South Kyrene Road, Suite
2, Tempe, AZ 85283, U.S.A.; tel. 800/387-
8850, fax 800/665-4432, website: www.
goway.com
Goway Travel, 3284 Yonge St., Toronto, Ontario
M4N 3M7, Canada; tel. 800/387-8850, fax
800/665-4432, website: www.goway.com
Goway Travel, 1200 West 73rd Avenue, Suite
1050, Vancouver, B.C. V6P 6G5. Canada:
tel. 800/387-8850 or 604/264-8088, fax
604/267-21 1 1 , website: www.goway.com
Islands in the Sun, 2381 Rosecrans Ave., Suite
325, El Segundo. CA 90245, U.S.A.; tel.
800/828-6877 or 31 0/536-0051 , fax 31 0/536-
6266, website: www.islandsinthesun.com
Pacific Destination Center, 1 8685 Main Street,
Suite A622, Huntington Beach, CA 92648,
U.S.A.; tel. 800/227-5317 or 714/960-4011,
website: www.pacific-destinations.com
Solace Destinations, 10625 N 25th Ave., Suite
200, Phoenix, AZ 85029, U.S.A.; tel. 800/548-
5331 , website: www.solacel .com
Travel Arrangements Ltd., 1 268 Broadway,
Sonoma, CA 95476, U.S.A.; tel. 800/392-8213
or 707/938-1 1 18, fax 707/938-1268
From Australia
Hideaway Holidays (Val Gavriloff, P.O. Box
121. West Ryde, NSW 21 14, Australia; tel. 61-
2/9743-0253, fax 61-2/9743-3568, website:
www.hideawayholidays.com.au) specializes in
packages to Fiji and the South Pacific. They've
been in the business for many years.
Qantas Holidays (Level 6, 141 Walker St.,
North Sydney, NSW 2060, Australia; tel. 61-
2/9957-0538, fax 61-2/9957-0393, website:
www.qantas.com.au) offers a variety of stan-
dard consumer packages to Fiji. In Europe these
trips can be booked through Qantas Holidays
(Sovereign House, 361 King St., Hammersmith,
London W6 9NA, United Kingdom; tel. 44-
20/8748-8676, fax 44-20/8748-7505).
The Pacific and International Travel Com-
pany (Level 1,91 York St., Sydney, NSW 2000,
Australia; tel. 61-2/9244-1777, fax 61-2/9262-
6318, website: www.pitc.com.au) books package
tours to Fiji. Also check Adventure World (Third
Floor, 73 Walker St, North Sydney, NSW 2060,
Australia; tel. 61-2/8913-0755, fax 61-2/9956-
7707, website: www.adventureworld.com.au),
and Goway Travel (350 Kent St., 8th floor, Syd-
ney. NSW 2000, Australia; tel. 61-2/9262-4755,
fax 61-2/9290-1905, website: www.goway.com).
For discounted airfares, try Trailfinders (8
Spring St., Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia; tel.
61-2/9247-7666, website: www.trailfinder.com),
with additional offices in Brisbane, Cairns, Mel-
bourne, and Perth.
From New Zealand
ASPAC Vacations Ltd. (137 Great North Rd,
Grey Lynn, Auckland, New Zealand; tel. 64-
9/916-9910, fax 64-9/916-9907, website:
www.aspac-vacations.co.nz) has packaged tours
and cruises to Fiji.
Travel Arrangements Ltd. (P.O. Box 297,
Auckland, New Zealand; tel. 64-9/914-8728, fax
64-9/912-8728, website: www.travelarrange.co.
nz) has been offering sailing holidays and pack-
age tours to Fiji for a quarter of a century.
Ray Aucott's Fathom South Pacific Travel
(P.O. Box 2557, Shortland Street, Auckland.
New Zealand; website: www.fathomtravel.com)
is an adventure travel-oriented packager. Ray
books rooms at all the top resorts, but he also
has numerous options for scuba diving, surfing,
water-water rafting, and fishing. Ninety-five per-
cent of Ray's bookings are via the Internet.
Scuba Tours
Fiji is one of the world's prime scuba locales,
and most of the islands have excellent facilities
for divers. Although it's not that difficult to make
your own arrangements as you go, you should
consider joining an organized scuba tour if you
want to cram in as much diving as possible. To
stay in business, the dive travel specialists men-
tioned below are forced to charge prices com-
parable to what you'd pay on the beach, and
the convenience of having everything pre-
arranged is often worth it. Before booking, find
out exactly where you'll be staying, and ask if
daily transfers and meals are provided. Of
course, diver certification is mandatory.
Before deciding, carefully consider the live-
aboard dive boats previously mentioned. They're
a bit more expensive than hotel-based diving,
but you're offered up to five dives a day and a
total experience. Some repeat divers won't go
any other way.
One of the top American scuba wholesalers
selling Fiji is Poseidon Ventures Tours (359 San
Copyrighted material
GETTING THERE 121
Miguel Dr., Newport Beach. CA 92660. U.S.A.;
tel. 800/854-9334 or 949/644-5344. fax 949/644-
5392. website: www.poseidontours.com; or 3724
FM 1960 West. Suite 114, Houston, TX 77068.
U.S.A.; tel. 800/468-0123 or 281/586-7800, fax
281/586-7870). They offer seven-night diving tours
beginning at USS895 including five days of two-
tank diving, double-occupancy hotel accommo-
dations, meals, taxes, and airport transfers (airfare
extra). Poseidon also sells live-aboard diving.
Tropical Adventures (P.O. Box 4337, Seat-
tle, WA 98109. U.S.A.; tel. 888/250-1799 or
206/441-3483, fax 206/441-5431, website:
www.divetropical.com) also specializes in book-
ing live-aboard diving with four boats to choose
from. Expect to pay about US$350 a night all-in-
clusive, and singles are expected to share (no
supplement). Airfare is extra, and land-based
packages are offered. Over 6.000 divers a year
book through this company, which has been in
business since 1973.
Another Fiji specialist is Aqua-Trek (110 Sutter
St., Suite 205, San Francisco, CA 94104, U.S.A.;
tel. 800/541-4334. website: www.aquatrek.com).
Aqua-Trek is unique in that they run their own
dive shops at Matamanoa. Mana. Pacific Harbor,
and Taveuni. Island Dreams (8582 Katy Free-
way, Suite 118. Houston, TX 77024, U.S.A.; tel.
800/346-61 16 or 713/973-9300, fax 713/973-
8585, website: www.islandream.com) specializes
in Fiji and the Solomons. Check their website for
Ken Knezick's revealing resort reports in "Fiji on
the Fly."
Dive Discovery (1005 A Street, Suite 202,
San Rafael, CA, 94901. U.S.A.; tel. 800/886-
7321 or 41 5/256-8890, fax 41 5/258-91 1 5, web-
site: www.divediscovery.com) caters to upscale
divers who want only the best accommodations.
This company also books the live-aboards, and
their website explains it all.
In Australia try Dive Adventures (Level 9.
32 York St., Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia; tel.
61-2/9299-4633, fax 61-2/9299-4644. website:
www.diveadventures.com.au), a scuba whole-
saler with packages to Fiji. They also have an of-
fice in Melbourne. Allways Dive Expeditions
(168 High St.. Ashburton, Melbourne, Victoria
3147. Australia, tel. 61-3/9885-8863, fax 61-
3/9885-1 164, website: www.allwaysdive.com.au)
organizes dive expeditions to all the Melane-
sian countries.
Dive, Fish, n' Snow Travel (15e Vega PI..
Mairangi Bay, Auckland 10, New Zealand; tel.
64-9/479-2210. fax 64-9/479-2214. website:
www.divefishsnow.co.nz) arranges scuba and
game fishing tours to Fiji at competitive rates.
Alternatively, you can make your own arrange-
ments directly with island dive shops. Information
about these operators is included under the
heading Sports and Recreation in the respec-
tive chapters of this book.
Tours for Naturalists
Perhaps the most rewarding way to visit the
South Seas is with Earthwatch (3 Clock Tower
Place, Suite 100, Box 75, Maynard, MA 01 754,
U.S.A.; tel. 800/776-0188 or 978/46 1-0081, fax
978/461-2332, website: www.earthwatch.org),
a nonprofit organization founded in 1971 to serve
as a bridge between the public and the scientif-
ic community. The programs vary from year to
year, but in past they've sent teams to study the
coral reefs and rainforests of Fiji. These are not
study tours but opportunities for amateurs to
help out with serious work, a kind of short-term
122 ON THE ROAD
scientific Peace Corps. As a research volunteer,
a team member's share of project costs is tax-de-
ductible in the United States and some other
countries. For more information contact Earth-
watch at the address above, or 126 Bank St.,
South Melbourne, Victoria 3205, Australia (tel.
61-3/9682-6828, fax 61-3/9686-3652), or Bel-
syre Court, 57 Woodstock Rd., Oxford 0X2 6HJ,
United Kingdom (tel. 44-1865/318-838, fax 44-
1865/31 1-383), or do Promotech Inc., Ogimura
Bldg. 6F. Kudan Minami 2-4-1 1 , Chiyoda-ku,
Tokyo, 102-0074 Japan (tel. 81-3/3511-3360,
fax 81 -3/351 1-4663).
Reef and Rainforest Adventure Travel
(4000 Bridgeway, Suite 103, Sausalito, CA
94965-1444, U.S.A.; tel. 800/794-9767 or
415/289-1760, fax 415/289-1763, website:
www.reefrainforest.com) books diving, kayak-
ing, trekking, cruises, and other adventure tours
to Fiji. Special tours designed for families with
small children are also available. Check their
website for details.
From August to November Joel Simon's Sea for
Yourself (729 College Ave., Menlo Park, CA
94025-5203, U.S.A.; tel. 650/322-1494, website:
www.snorkeltours.com) offers personalized snor-
keling tours to Fiji and Tonga. A 10-day tour with
whale watching in Tonga and reef watching in Fiji
costs US$3,750 without airfare to Fiji (the same to
Fiji alone will run US$3,150). Joel only takes a
dozen people at a time, and he's usually sold out
months ahead. It's the creme de la creme.
Tours for Seniors
Since 1989, the Pacific Islands Institute (P.O.
Box 1926, Kailua, HI 96734, U.S.A.; tel. 808/262-
8942, fax 808/263-0178, website: www.pac
-island.com) has operated educational tours to
Fiji and the other South Pacific countries in co-
operation with Hawaii Pacific University. Their
Eiderhostel people-to-people study programs
designed for those aged 55 or over (younger
spouses welcome) last two or three weeks.
Check their website to learn what's available.
These culturally responsible trips are highly rec-
ommended.
Kayak Tours
Among the most exciting tours to Fiji are the nine-
day kayaking expeditions offered from May to Oc-
tober by Southern Sea Ventures (Al Bakker,
P.O. Box 781, Newport. NSW 2106, Australia; tel.
61-2/9999-0541, fax 61-2/9999-1357, website:
www.southernseaventures.com). Their groups
(limited to 12 people) paddle stable two-person
sea kayaks through the sheltered tropical waters
of the northern Yasawa chain. Accommodations
are tents on the beach, and participants must be in
reasonable physical shape, as three or four hours
a day are spent on the water. The US$1 ,050 price
doesn't include airfare. In North America you can
book through World Expeditions (580 Market St.,
Level 6, San Francisco, CA 94104, U.S.A.; tel.
888/464-8735. fax 41 5/989-21 1 2).
Deluxe kayak tours to Kadavu, Fiji, are of-
fered on the first Tuesday of each month from
March to December by Michael and Melissa
McCoy of Kayak Kadavu (tel. 800/488-3454
or 808/871-5986, website: www.fiji-kayak-
kadavu.com). Their seven-night trips are
US$1 ,650 pp. An escort boat carries all the
heavy gear, allowing participants the luxury of
paddling a lightweight sit-on-top kayak around
some really breathtaking locations. In North
America book through Fiji Reservations and
Travel (address above). Other kayaking trips to
Ono and Kadavu are organized by Tamarillo
(P.O. Box 9869. Wellington, New Zealand; tel.
64-4/801-7549, fax 64-4/801-7349, website:
www.tamarillo.co.nz). There are 10 one-week
trips from June to October at NZ$1,835 from
Nadi or NZ$2,690 from Auckland.
Thailand-based SeaCanoe International
(John "Caveman" Gray, fax 888-824-5621 , web-
site: http-7/seakayaking-fiji.com) organizes kayak-
ing expeditions around Vanua Balavu and Tave-
uni. Consult their website for details.
Surfing Tours
The largest operator of surfing tours to the South
Pacific is The Surf Travel Company (P.O. Box
446, Cronulla, NSW 2230, Australia; tel. 61-
2/9527-4722, fax 61-2/9527-4522, website:
www.surftravel.com.au) with packages to Frigate
Pass, Waidroka, Namotu Island, and Seashell
Cove. Surf/dive yacht charters are also arranged.
In New Zealand book through Mark Thomson
(7 Danbury Dr., Torbay, Auckland 1311, New
Zealand; tel. 64-9/473-8388, fax 64-9/473-8698,
email: surttravel_nz@hotmail.com).
For information on elitist tours to Tavarua Island
and the famous Cloudbreak contact Tavarua Is-
Copy righted material
GETTING THERE 123
land Tours (P.O. Box 60159, Santa Barbara,
CA 93160, U.S.A.; tel. 805/686-4551, fax
805/683-6696). A one-week package will run
US$2,495, including everything except the taxi
from the airport to the wharf (US$30 round-trip).
A non-refundable deposit of US$250 is required
to get on the waiting list. Tavarua is usually sold
out six months in advance, but check with Glob-
al Surf Travel (P.O. Box 2639, Wailuku, HI
96793, U.S.A.; tel. 808/244-1677, fax 808/244-
3626. website: www.globalsurftravel.com) for
"last minute opportunities."
Waterways Travel (15145 Calif a St., Van
Nuys, CA 91411, U.S.A.; tel. 800/928-3757 or
818/376-0341 , fax 818/376-0353, website: www.
waterwaystravel.com) handles bookings for
Tavarua's neighbor, Namotu Island Resort.
Seven-night package tours from Los Angeles
with airfare, meals, and boat transfers included
are US$2,374 pp in the dorm or US$4, 138/5, 196
single/double in a bure. Only group bookings
for 20 or more persons are accepted from March
to December (individual bookings accepted in
January and February). Waterways will not find
roommates for singles who wish to share a dou-
ble bure. However they do keep a waiting list of
people who wish to be informed if vacancies
occur at any time of year. Additional informa-
tion on both Tavarua and Namotu is provided
in the Mamanucas chapter.
Hiking Tours
Yearround Adventure Fiji, a division of Rosie
The Travel Service (P.O. Box 9268, Nadi Air-
port, Fiji; tel. 722-935, fax 722-607) runs adven-
turesome three and five-night hiking trips in the
upper Wainibuka River area of central Viti Levu
south of Rakiraki. Horses carry trekkers' back-
packs, so the trips are feasible for almost anyone
in good condition. Accommodation is in actual Fi-
jian villages. The F$693 pp price includes trans-
port to the trailhead, food and accommodations
at a few of the 1 1 Fijian villages along the way,
guides, and a bamboo raft ride on the Wainibu-
ka River. Trekkers only hike about five hours a
day, allowing lots of time to get to know the vil-
lage people. These tours begin from Nadi every
Monday and Wednesday. In Australia bookings
can be made through Rosie The Travel Service
(Level 5, Suite 505, East Towers, 9 Bronte Rd.,
Bondi Junction, Sydney, NSW 2022. Australia;
tel. 61-2/9389-3666, fax 61-2/9369-1 129, web-
site: www.citysearch.com.au/syd/rosietours).
Yacht Tours and Charters
If you were planning on spending a substan-
tial amount to stay at a luxury resort, consider
chartering a yacht instead! Divided up among
the members of your party, the per-person char-
ter price will be about the same, but you'll ex-
perience much more of Fiji's beauty on a boat
than you would staying in hotel. All charterers
visit remote islands accessible only by small
boat, and thus receive special insights into is-
land life unspoiled by normal tourist trappings.
Of course, activities such as sailing, snorkel-
ing, and general exploring by sea and land are
included in the price.
Yacht charters are available either "bareboat"
(for those with the skill to sail on their own) or
"crewed" (in which case charterers pay a daily
fee for a skipper plus his/her provisions). On a
"flotilla" charter a group of bareboats follows an
experienced lead yacht.
Due to the riskiness of navigating Fiji's poor-
ly marked reefs, yacht charters aren't as com-
mon in Fiji as they are in Tonga or Tahiti. All
charter boats are required by law to carry a Fijian
guide.
Musket Cove Yacht Charters (Private Mail
Bag NAP 0352, Nadi Airport, Fiji; tel. 666-710 or
722-488, fax 662-633 or 720-387, website:
www.musketcovefiji.com) offers fully crewed or
flotilla yacht charters among the Mamanuca
and Yasawa islands from their base at the Mus-
ket Cove Marina on Malololailai Island in the
Mamanuca Group. Surfing and diving charters
are available. Check Musket Cove's website
for information. For example, the ketch Hobo
can be chartered for Yasawa cruises at F$7007
950 a day for two/four people, provisions and
crew included. Sailwing Yachting (P.O. Box
28, Lautoka; teL/fax 668-628) controls the 14-
meter yacht Lea based at the Vuda Point Mari-
na, which also does Yasawa cruises.
Larger groups could consider the 27-meter
ketch Tau at the Raffles Tradewinds Hotel, Suva,
which costs US$1 ,800/12,000 a day/week plus
1 0 percent tax for up to six persons, including all
meals, drinks, and an experienced crew (scuba
diving is extra). It's available year-round. For full
information contact Bilo Ltd., P.O. Box 3084,
Copyrighted material
124 ON THE ROAD
Lami, Fiji; tel. 361 -057, fax 361 -035, or talk to one
of the brokers below.
The veteran of custom chartering in the United
States is Ocean Voyages Inc. (1709 Bridgeway,
Sausalito, CA 94965, U.S.A.; tel. 800/299-4444 or
415/332-4681, fax 415/332-7460, website:
www.oceanvoyages.com). Unlike their competi-
tors. Ocean Voyages has programs that individ-
uals can join. In these "shareboaf charters, sin-
gles and couples book a cabin instead of an entire
yacht. Typical prices range from US$1 00-275
pp per day, and scuba diving is possible at extra
cost on some boats (ask). Trips of a week or
more can be arranged in the Yasawas, Ma-
manucas, Taveuni, and out of Suva. Longer
Fiji/Tonga or Fiji/Vanuatu trips of two or three
weeks are also possible. For example, the 22-
meter sailboat Golden Opus accommodates
four/six people at US$1 6.500/1 7,500 a week all in-
clusive except for bar and communications. The
smaller Tavake does charters for two/four per-
sons at US$3,950/5,250 a week. In all, Ocean
Voyages has 1 1 vessels in the area.
One of the classic "tall ships" cruising the South
Pacific is the two-masted brigantine Soren Larsen,
built in 1949. From May to November this 42
square meter rig vessel operates 1 0-1 7 day voy-
ages to Tahiti, Cook Islands, Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu,
and New Caledonia costing US$1, 300-2,500.
The 1 2-member professional crew is actively as-
sisted by 22 voyage participants. For information
contact Square Sail Pacific (P.O. Box 310,
Kumeu, Auckland 1250, New Zealand; tel. 64-
9/411-8755, fax 64-9/411-8484, website: www.
sorenlarsen.co.nz). Their U.K. agent is Explore
Worldwide (1 Frederick St., Aldershot, Hants
GU11 1LQ, United Kingdom; tel. 44-1252/760-
000, fax 44-1252/760-001, website: www
.exploreworldwide.com). Ocean Voyages Inc.
handles bookings in North America.
MARITIME COORDINATES
ISLAND GROUP/
LAND AREA
HIGHEST POINT
ISLAND
(SQ KM)
(METERS)
LATITUDE
LONGITUDE
VITI LEVU GROUP
Beqa
36.0
439
18.40°S
178.13°E
Vatulele
31.6
34
18.50 D S
177.63°E
Viti Levu
10,429.0
1,323
17.80°S
178.00°E
Naviti
34.0
388
17.13°S
177.25°E
Yasawa
32.0
244
16.80°S
177.50°E
KADAVU GROUP
Dravuni
0.8
40
18.78°S
178.53°E
Kadavu
411.0
838
19.05°S
178.25°E
Ono
30.0
354
18.88°S
178.50°E
LOMAIVTTI GROUP
Gau
140.0
747
18.00°S
179.30°E
Koro
104.0
522
17.30°S
179.40°E
Makogai
8.4
267
17.43°S
178.98 E
Ovalau
101.0
626
17.70°S
178.80°E
Wakaya
8.0
152
17.65*S
179.02°E
VANUA LEVU GROUP
Namenalala
0.4
105
17.11°S
179.10°E
Qamea
34.0
304
16.77°S
179.77°W
Rabi
69.0
463
16.50°S
180.00°E
Copyrighted material
GETTING THERE 125
In Australia, Paradise Adventures & Cruis-
es (Heidi Gavriloff, P.O. Box 121, West Ryde,
NSW 21 14; tel. 61-2/9743-0253. fax 61-2/9743-
3568, website: www.paradiseadventures.com.
au) specializes in privately crewed sailing trips in
the Mamanuca and Yasawa groups. Paradise
Adventures also has all-inclusive packages in
conjunction with Blue Lagoon Cruises.
A few other private brokers arranging bare-
boat or crewed yacht charters in Fiji are Char-
ter World Pty. Ltd. (23 Passchendaele St.,
Hampton, Melbourne 3188, Australia; tel.
61-3/9521-0033, fax 61-3/9521-0081, website:
www.charterworld.com.au), Yachting Partners
International (28-29 Richmond PL, Brighton,
Sussex, BN2 2NA, United Kingdom; tel.
800/626-0019 or 44-1273/571-722, fax 44-
1273/571-720, website: www.ypi.co.uk), and
Crestar Yachts Ltd. (125 Sloane St., London
SW1X 9AU, United Kingdom; tel. 44-20/7730-
2299, fax 44-20/7824-8691, email: crestar
yachts@mail.com).
BY SAILING YACHT
Getting Aboard
Hitch rides into the Pacific on yachts from Cali-
fornia, Panama, New Zealand, and Australia,
or around the yachting triangle Papeete-Suva-
Honolulu. At home, scrutinize the classified
listings of yachts seeking crews, yachts to be
delivered, etc., in magazines like Yachting
(www.yachtingnet.com), Cruising World (www
sailingworld.com), Sail (www.sailmag.com), and
Latitude 38 (www.latitude38.com). You can even
advertise yourself for about US$35 (plan to have
the ad appear three months before the beginning
of the season). Check the bulletin boards
at yacht clubs, and explore the links at www
ISLAND GROUP/
LAND AREA
HIGHEST POINT
ISLAND
(SQ KM)
(METERS)
LATITUDE
LONGITUDE
VANUA LEVU GROUP (continued)
Taveuni
470.0
1,241
16.85 S
179.95 C E
Vanua Levu
5,556.0
1,032
16.60 D S
179.20°E
Yaduataba
0.7
100
16.84 C S
178.28 C E
LAU GROUP
Cicia
34.0
165
17.75°S
179.33°W
Fulaga
18,5
79
19.17°S
178.65°W
Kabara
31.0
143
18.95°S
178.97°W
Kanacea
13.0
259
17.25°S
179.17°W
Lakeba
54.0
215
18.20 C S
178.80°W
Ogea Levu
13.3
82
19.18°S
178.47°W
Ono-i-Lau
7.9
113
20.80°S
178.75°W
Vanua Balavu
53.0
283
17.25S
178.92°W
Vuaqava
7.7
107
18.83 C S
178.92°W
Wailagi Lala
0.3
5
16.75°S
179.18°W
MOALA GROUP
Matuku
57.0
385
19.18°S
179.75°E
Moala
62.5
468
18.60°S
179.90°E
Totoya
28.0
366
18.93°S
179.83°W
RINGGOLD ISLES
Qelelevu
1.5
12
16.09S
179.26°W
ROTUMA GROUP
Conway Reef
0.1
2
21.77°S
174.52°E
Rotuma
47.0
256
12.50 C S
177.13°E
Copyrighted material
126 ON THE ROAD
.cruiser. co. za and www.noonsite.com. The
Seven Seas Cruising Association (1525 South
Andrews Ave., Suite 217, Fort Lauderdale, FL
33316. U.S.A.; tel. 954/463-2431 , fax 954/463-
7183, website: www.ssca.org) is in touch with
yacnties an arouna tne racmc, ana tne ciassmea
section "Crew Exchange" in their monthly Com-
modores' Bulletin contains ads from their mem-
bers in search of or wishing to be crew. Also
check Boatcrew.net (www.boatcrew.net), which
brings captains and crew together for a fee.
But rather than trying to do your whole trip
this way, it's much easier to sign up as crew on
yachts already in the islands, and Suva, Su-
vasavu, Lautoka, and Musket Cove are the best
places in Fiji to look for a boat. Cruising yachts
are recognizable by their foreign flags, wind-
vane steering gear, sturdy appearance, and
laundry hung out to dry. Put up notices on yacht
club and marine bulletin boards, and meet peo-
ple in bars. When a boat is hauled out, you can
find work scraping and repainting the bottom,
varnishing, and doing minor repairs.
If you've never crewed before, it's better to
try for a short passage the first time. Once at
sea, there's no way they'll turn around to take a
seasick crew member back to port. Good cap-
tains evaluate crew on personality, attitude, and
willingness to learn more than on experience;
so don't lie. Be honest and open when inter-
viewing with a skipper— a deception will soon
become apparent.
It's also good to know what a captain's really
like before you commit yourself to an isolated
week or two with her/him. To determine what
might happen should the electronic gadgetry
break down, find out if there's a sextant aboard
• and whether he/she knows how to use it. A run-
down-looking boat may often be mechanically
unsound too. Also be concerned about a skipper
who doesn't do a careful safety briefing early
on, or who seems to have a hard time hanging
onto crew. If the previous crew has left the boat
at an unlikely place, there must have been a
reason. Once you're on a boat and part of the
yachtie community, things are easy. (P.S. from
veteran yachtie Peter Moree: "We do need more
ladies out here— adventurous types naturally.")
Time of Year
The weather and seasons play a deciding role in
any South Pacific trip by sailboat and you'll have
to pull out of many beautiful places, or be un-
able to stop there, because of bad weather. The
favorite season for rides in the South Pacific is
May to October; sometimes you'll even have to
turn one down. Around August or September
start looking for a ride from the South Pacific to
Hawaii or New Zealand.
Be aware of the hurricane season: Novem-
ber to March in the South Pacific, July to De-
cember in the northwest Pacific (near Guam),
and June to October in the area between Mexi-
co and Hawaii. Few yachts will be cruising those
areas at these times. A few yachts spend the
winter in American Samoa and Tonga (the main
"hurricane holes"), but most South Pacific cruis-
ers will have left for hurricane-free New Zealand
by October.
Also, know which way the winds are blowing;
the prevailing trade winds in the tropics are from
the northeast north of the equator, from the
southeast south of the equator. North of the trop-
ic of Cancer and south of the tropic of Capri-
corn the winds are out of the west. Due to the ac-
tion of prevailing southeast trade winds boat
trips are smoother from east to west than west to
east throughout the South Pacific, so that's the
way to go.
Yachting Routes
The South Pacific is good for sailing; there's not
too much traffic and no piracy like you'd find in
the Mediterranean or in Indonesian waters. The
common yachting route or "Coconut Milk Run"
across the South Pacific utilizes the northeast
and southeast trades: from California to Tahiti via
the Marquesas or Hawaii, then Rarotonga,
Vava'u, Suva, and New Zealand. Some yachts
continue west from Fiji to Port Vila. In the other
direction, you'll sail on the westerlies from New
Zealand to a point south of the Australs, then
north on the trades to Tahiti.
Some 300 yachts leave the west coast of the
United States for Tahiti every year, almost al-
ways crewed by couples or men only. Most stay
in the South Seas about a year before returning
to North America, while a few continue around
the world. About 60-80 cross the Indian Ocean
every year (look for rides from Sydney in May,
Cairns or Darwin from June to August, Bali from
August to October, Singapore from October to
Copyrighted material
GETTING THERE 127
December); around 700 yachts sail from Europe
to the Caribbean (from Gibraltar and Gran Ca-
naria from October to December).
Cruising yachts average about 150 km a day.
so it takes about a month to get from the west
coast of the United States to Hawaii, then an-
other month from Hawaii to Tahiti. To enjoy the
f inest weather conditions many yachts clear the
Panama Canal or depart California in February to
arrive in the Marquesas in March. From Hawaii,
yachts often leave for Tahiti in April or May.
Many stay on for the Heiva i Tahiti festival, which
ends on July 14, at which time they sail west to
Vava'u or Suva, where you'll find them in July
and August. From New Zealand, the Auckland to
Fiji yacht race in June brings many boats north.
In mid-September the yachting season culmi-
nates with a race by about 40 boats from Musket
Cove on Fiji's Malololailai Island to Port Vila (it's
very easy to hitch a ride at this time).
By late October the bulk of the yachting com-
munity is sailing south via New Caledonia to
New Zealand or Australia to spend the south-
ern summer there. In April or May on alternate
years (2003, 2005, etc.) there's a yacht race
from Auckland and Sydney to Suva, timed to
coincide with the cruisers' return after the hurri-
cane season.
Blue Water Rallies (Peter Seymour, Windsor
Cottage, Chedworth, Cheltenham, Gloucester-
shire GL54 4AA, United Kingdom; tel./fax 44-
1285/720-904, website: www.yachtrallies.co.uk)
organizes annual round-the-world yachting ral-
lies, departing Europe each October. Inquiries
from both owners and potential crew members
are welcome for these 20-month circumnaviga-
tions that visit Galapagos, the Marquesas, Tahi-
ti, Tonga, and Fiji. Blue Water's professional
support services will help make that "voyage of a
lifetime" a reality!
Be aware of a law that requires foreign yachts
departing New Zealand to obtain a "Certificate of
Inspection" from the New Zealand Yachting Fed-
eration prior to customs clearance. This regu-
lation has led to a 30 percent decline in the num-
ber of yachts visiting New Zealand. It's wise to
consider alternative summer anchorages before
sailing into a situation where some clerk could
force you to spend thousands of dollars up-
grading safety standards on your boat before
you'll be permitted to leave.
Life Aboard
To crew on a yacht you must be willing to wash
and iron clothes, cook, steer, keep watch at night,
and help with engine work. Other jobs might in-
clude changing and resetting sails, cleaning the
boat, scraping the bottom, pulling up the anchor,
and climbing the main mast to watch for reefs. Do
more than is expected of you. A safety harness
must be worn in rough weather. As a guest in
someone else's home you'll want to wash your
dishes promptly after use and put them, and all
other gear, back where you found them. Tam-
pons must not be thrown in the toilet bowl. Smok-
ing is usually prohibited as a safety hazard.
You'll be a lot more useful if you know how to tie
knots like the clove hitch, rolling hitch, sheet bend,
double sheet bend, reef knot, square knot, fig-
ure eight, and bowline. Check your local library for
books on sailing or write away for the compre-
hensive free catalog of boating books available
from International Marine Publishing (P.O. Box
182607, Columbus, OH 43218-2607, U.S.A.; tel.
800/262-4729, website: www.pbg.mcgraw-hill.
com/im). Yachting books also can be ordered
online through www.southpacific.org/books.html.
Anybody who wants to get on well in this sit-
uation must be flexible and tolerant, both phys-
ically and emotionally. Expense-sharing crew
members pay US$50 a week or more per per-
son. After 30 days you'll be happy to hit land
for a freshwater shower. Give adequate notice
when you're ready to leave the boat, but do dis-
embark when your journey's up. Boat people
have few enough opportunities for privacy as it
is. If you've had a good trip, ask the captain to
write you a letter of recommendation; it'll help
you hitch another ride.
Food for Thought
When you consider the big investment, depre-
ciation, cost of maintenance, operating expens-
es, and considerable risk (most cruising yachts
are not insured), travel by sailing yacht is quite a
luxury. The huge cost can be surmised from
charter fees (US$600 a day and up for a 10-
meter yacht). International law makes a clear
distinction between passengers and crew. Crew
members paying only for their own food, cooking
gas, and part of the diesel are very different from
charterers who do nothing and pay full costs.
The crew is there to help operate the boat,
Copyrighted material
128 ON THE ROAD
adding safety, but like passengers, they're very
much under the control of the captain. Crew has
no say in where the yacht will go.
The skipper is personally responsible for crew
coming into foreign ports: he's entitled to hold
their passports and to see that they have on-
ward tickets and sufficient funds for further trav-
eling. Otherwise the skipper might have to pay
their hotel bills and even return airfares to the
crew's country of origin. Crew may be asked to
pay a share of third-party liability insurance. Pos-
session of dope can result in seizure of the yacht.
Because of such considerations, skippers often
hesitate to accept crew. Crew members should
remember that at no cost to themselves they
can learn a bit of sailing and visit places nearly in-
accessible by other means. Although not for
everyone, it's the way to see the real South Pa-
cific, and folks who arrive by yacht are treated dif-
ferently from other tourists.
naterial
GETTING AROUND 129
GETTING AROUND
daily to Kadavu (F$70), three times a week to
BY AIR Gau (F$56), Vanua Balavu (F$1 1 3), and Lake-
ba (F$114), twice a week to Moala (F$103),
While most international flights are focused on and weekly to Koro (F$80) and Cicia (F$105).
Nadi, Fiji's domestic air service radiates from Savusavu to Taveuni (F$59) is twice daily (all
Suva and two local airlines compete fiercely, fares one-way). The 30-day "Discover Fiji Air
Air Fiji (P.O. Box 1 259, Suva, Fiji; tel. 31 3-666, Pass" (US$270) is valid on any four flights be-
fax 300-771 , website: www.airfiji.net) flies their tween Kadavu, Nadi, Savusavu, Suva, and
fast Brazilian-made Embraer Brasilias (30 Taveuni, but it must be purchased prior to ar-
seats), sturdy Canadian-made Twin Otters, rival in Fiji. (In July, 1999, an Air Fiji flight from
pocket-size Britten Norman Islanders, Suva to Nadi crashed into mountainside killing
and exotic Chinese-made Y12 Har- W all 17 persons aboard. Investiga-
bins from Suva's Nausori Airport six ^^^^^^^^^^ tors blamed the accident on the
times a day to Labasa (FS1 1 5) ^^^^ pilot, who had received insuffi-
and Nadi (FS90), twice a day % \\\ ^^MK^T*f H cient slee P tne ni 9 nt Defore
to Levuka (FS41). Savusavu r\ \ l\ *4 F3^f~ J ! and had taken a sedative prior
(FS90). and Taveuni (FS1 14), H ^" x ^5f^r to the flight.)
AIR ROUTES
IN FIJI
Rotuma
SUN AIR
AIR FIJI
I
Vanua Levu
130 ON THE ROAD
Sun Air (P.O. Box 9452, Nadi Airport, Fiji;
tel. 723-016, fax 720-085, website: www.fiji.to),
formerly Sunflower Airlines, bases much of its do-
mestic network at Nadi, with three flights a day to
Labasa (F$142), two a day to Suva (F$90) and
Taveuni (F$159), two a day to Savusavu
(F$129), and daily to Kadavu (F$90). From Suva,
Sunflower has flights to Labasa (twice daily,
F$1 15). Nadi (two daily, F$90), and Rotuma
(twice weekly, F$288). From Taveuni, they go to
Savusavu (twice daily, F$59) and Labasa (twice
daily, F$59). Flying in their 10-seat Britten Nor-
man Islanders, versatile, 20-seat Twin Otters,
or 20-seat Herons is sort of fun.
From Nadi, the busy little resort island of Mal-
ololailai gets 10 flights a day by Sun Air and six
by Air Fiji (F$37). Mana Island is visited eight
times a day by Sunflower and four times by Air
Fiji (F$47).
Turtle Airways Ltd. (Private Mail Bag, NAP
0355, Nadi Airport, Fiji; tel. 721-888, fax 720-
095, website: www.turtleairways.com), owned
by Richard Evanson of Turtle Island Resort, flies
their five Cessna 206 floatplanes and one De-
Haviland Beaver three times a day from Nadi
to Castaway and Mana Islands (FS109 one-way,
F$218 round-trip). The Beaver is a classic air-
cratt, performing remarkable white- water takeotts
and landings.
Because only Nadi and Nausori airports have
electric lighting on their runways, all flights are
during daylight hours. Gravel runways and vintage
planes are part of the fun of flying here. Those un-
accustomed to island flying should prepare them-
selves for abrupt landings on short airstrips cut out
of the bush or aircraft carrier-style takeoffs over
the sea. The views from these low flying planes
can be exceptional. Don't be surprised if one of
the pilots opens his window during the flight to
get a bit of air. What to you may seem scary is
only routine for them. Always reconfirm your return
flight immediately upon arrival at an outer island,
as the reservation lists are sometimes not sent out
from Suva. Failure to do this could mean you'll be
bumped without compensation.
Student discounts are for local students only
and there are no standby fares. Children aged
12 and under pay 50 percent, infants two and
under carried in arms pay 10 percent. Be aware
that flights on the domestic earners booked from
abroad or over the Internet are 25 percent more
expensive than the same tickets purchased in
Fiji (and foreign tourists are also usually charged
the higher "tourist price" when they book in
Nadi). For example, instead of paying F$37 to fly
to M 9 1 o i o 1 3 1 1 3 1 1 you II probsbly b6 3Sk©d ^*^J51
if you're at Nadi Airport. In this book we quote
the local fare, but you won't always be able to
get it. Sun Air, Air Fiji, and Turtle Airways allow
20 kg of baggage.
BY BOAT
Since most shipping operates out of Suva, pas-
senger services by sea both within Fiji and to
neighboring countries are listed in the Suva sec-
tion. Ferries to the Mamanuca Group are cov-
ered under Nadi, those to the Yasawas under
Lautoka and The Yasawa Islands, those be-
tween Vanua Levu and Taveuni under Buca Bay
and Taveuni.
The largest company is Patterson Brothers
Shipping (GPO P.O. Box 1041 , Suva), set up by
Levuka copra planter Reg Patterson and his
brother just after World War I. Patterson's two
Japanese-built car ferries, the Ovalau and
Princess Ashika, are usually used on the Bure-
sala-Natovi-Nabouwalu-Ellington Wharf run.
Their third ferry, the Island Navigator, is the for-
mer Queen Salamasina purchased from Samoa
for US$74,410 in late 1999. Built in Perth, Aus-
tralia, in 1977, the Island Navigator underwent
major repairs at Nelson, New Zealand, after
being damaged during Hurricane Ofa in 1990. It
does trips to Lau and Rotuma. The barge Yaubu-
la shuttles between Natuvu and Taveuni. De-
lays due to mechanical failures on Patterson's
aging fleet are routine.
Consort Shipping Line runs the large car
ferry Spirit of Free Enterprise from Suva to Koro,
Savusavu, and Taveuni twice a week. The ferry
Adi Savusavu of Beachcomber Cruises
(www.beachcomberfiji.com) also visits Savusavu
and Taveuni from Suva two or three times a
week. This same company runs the high-speed
catamaran Lagilagi between Nadi and Savusavu
twice a week. This 20-meter, 150-seat vessel,
built in New Zealand in 2000, cruises at 36 knots.
Other regular boat trips originating in Suva
include the Patterson Brothers "Sea Road" shut-
tle to Levuka and the weekly ferries to Kadavu.
Copyrighted material
GETTING AROUND 131
By Ocean Kayak
Ocean kayaking is experiencing a boom in Fiji
with kayaking tours now offered in the Yasawas,
Kadavu, Taveuni, and Vanua Levu. Most islands
have a sheltered lagoon ready-made for the ex-
citement of kayak touring, and this effortless
transportation mode can make you a real inde-
pendent 20th-century explorer! Many interna-
tional airlines accept folding kayaks as checked
baggage at no charge.
For a better introduction to ocean kayaking
than is possible here, check at your local public
library for sea kayaking manuals. Noted author
Paul Theroux toured the entire South Pacific
by kayak, and his experiences are recounted
in The Happy Isles of Oceania: Paddling the
Pacific.
BY BUS
Scheduled bus service is available all over Fiji,
and fares are low. If you're from the States you'll
be amazed how accessible, inexpensive, and
convenient the bus service is. Most long-dis-
tance bus services operate several times a day
and bus stations are usually adjacent to local
markets. Buses with a signboard in the window
reading Via Highway are local "stage" buses
that will stop anywhere along their routes and
can be excruciatingly slow on a long trip. Ex-
press buses are much faster but they'll only stop
in a few towns and won't let you off at resorts
along the way. Unfortunately the times of local
buses are not posted at the bus stations, and
it's often hard to find anyone to ask about buses
to remote locations. The people most likely to
know are bus drivers, but you'll often receive
misleading or incorrect information about local
buses. Express bus times are posted at the sta-
tions and it's sometimes possible to pick up print-
ed express bus timetables at tourist offices.
On Viti Levu, the most important routes are be-
tween Lautoka and Suva, the biggest cities. If
you follow the southern route via Sigatoka you'll
be on Queens Road, the smoother and faster
of the two. Kings Road via Tavua is longer and
can be rough and dusty, but you get to see a
bit of the interior. Fares from Suva are FS2.70 to
Pacific Harbor, F$6.35 to Sigatoka, F$9.20 to
Nadi, FS9.60 to Nadi Airport, FS10.55 to Lauto-
ka, and F$12.15 to Ba. Fares average just over
F$2 for each hour of travel.
Pacific Transport Ltd. (GPO P.O. Box 1266,
Suva, Fiji; tel. 304-366) has 1 1 buses a day along
Queens Road, with expresses leaving Suva for
Lautoka at 0645, 0830, 0930, 1210. 1500, and
1730 (221 km, five hours). Eastbound, the ex-
presses leave Lautoka for Suva at 0630, 0700,
1210, 1550, and 1730. An additional Suva-bound
express leaves Nadi at 0900. These buses stop
at Navua, Pacific Harbor, Sigatoka (coffee break).
Nadi, and Nadi Airport only. The 1500 bus from
Suva continues on to Ba. If you want off at a
Coral Coast resort or some other smaller place,
you must take one of the five local "stage" buses,
which take six hours to reach Lautoka via Queens
Road. Sunbeam Transport operates five daily
express buses between Sigatoka and Suva stop-
ping at many resorts along the way.
The daily Sunset Express (tel. 382-515)
leaves Suva for Sigatoka, Nadi, and Lautoka at
0845 and 1600 (four hours. F$11). From the
Lautoka end, it leaves at 0930 and 1515. In
Suva, Sunset Express bookings can be made at
Stall No. 51 in the Suva Flea Market opposite the
bus station. At Nadi Airport, they're in office No.
21 upstairs from arrivals.
Sunbeam Transport Ltd. (tel. 382-704) ser-
vices the northern Kings Road from Suva to
Lautoka five times a day, with expresses leaving
Suva at 0645, 081 5, 1 200, 1 330. and 1 71 5 (265
km, six hours). Another local Sunbeam bus
leaves Suva for Vatukoula via Tavua daily at
0730 (seven hours). From Lautoka, they depart
at 0615, 0630, 0815, 1215. and 1630. A Sun-
beam express bus along Kings Road is a com-
fortable way to see Viti Levu's picturesque back
side. These expresses only stop at Nausori, Ko-
rovou. Vaileka (Rakiraki), Tavua, and Ba. If you
want off anywhere else you must take one of
the two local buses, which take nine fun-filled
hours to reach Lautoka via Kings Road.
Reliance Transport (tel. 382-296) also ser-
vices Kings Road. K.R. Latchan s Ltd. (tel. 477-
268) runs express buses right around Viti Levu.
There are many other local buses, especially
closer to Suva or Lautoka. The air-conditioned
tourist expresses such as UTC's "Fiji Express"
cost twice as much as the services just described
and are not as much fun as the ordinary ex-
presses, whose big open windows with roll-down
Copyrighted material
132 ON THE ROAD
canvas covers give you a panoramic view of Viti
Levy. Bus service on Vanua Levu and Taveuni is
also good. Local buses often show up late, but
the long-distance buses are usually right on time.
Passenger trucks serving as "carriers" charge
set rates to and from interior villages.
Running Taxis
Shared "running" taxis and minibuses also shut-
tle back and forth between Suva, Nadi, and Lau-
toka, leaving when full and charging only a little
more than the bus. Look for them in the mar-
kets around the bus stations. They'll often drop
you exactly where you want to go; drawbacks in-
clude the less safe driving and lack of insurance
coverage. In a speeding minibus you miss out on
much of the scenery, and tourists have been
killed in collisions. It's possible to hire a com-
plete taxi from Nadi Airport to Suva for about
F$80 for the car, with brief stops along the way
for photos, resort visits, etc.
Often the drivers of private or company cars
and vans try to earn a little money on the side by
stopping to offer lifts to persons waiting for buses
beside the highway. They ask the same as you'd
pay on the bus but are much faster and will prob-
ably drop you off exactly where you want to go.
Many locals don't really understand hitchhiking,
and it's probably only worth doing on remote
roads where bus service is inadequate. In such
places almost everyone will stop. Be aware that
truck dnvers who give you a lift may also expect
the equivalent of bus fare; locals pay this without
question. It's always appropriate to offer the bus
fare and let the driver decide.
TAXIS
Fijian taxis are plentiful and among the cheapest
in the South Pacific, affordable even for back-
packers. Only in Suva do the taxis have meters,
but everywhere it's easier to ask the driver for a
flat rate before you get in. If the first price you're
quoted is too high you can often bargain (al-
though bargaining is much more accepted by an
Indo-Fijian than by indigenous Fijian drivers). A
short ride across town can cost F$1-2, a longer
trip into a nearby suburb about F$3. Taxis parked
in front of luxury hotels will expect much more
than this, and it may be worth walking a short
distance and flagging one down on the street.
Taxis returning to their stand after a trip will pick
up passengers at bus stops and charge the reg-
ular bus fare (ask if it's the "returning fare"). All
taxis have their home base painted on their
bumpers, so it's easy to tell if it's a returning car.
Don't tip your driven tips are neither expected
nor necessary. And don't invite your driver for a
drink or become overly familiar with him as he
may abuse your trust. If you're a woman taking a
cab alone in the Nadi area, don't let your driver
think there is any "hope" for him, or you could
have problems (videos often portray Western
women as promiscuous, which leads to mistak-
en expectations).
CAR RENTALS
Rental cars are expensive in Fiji, due in part to
high import duties on cars and a 1 0 percent gov-
ernment tax, so with public transportation as
good as it is here, you should think twice before
renting a car. By law, third-party public liability in-
surance is compulsory for rental vehicles and
is included in the basic rate, but collision damage
waiver (CDW) insurance is F$12-20 per day
extra. Even with CDW, you're often still respon-
sible for a "nonwaivable excess," which can be
as high as the first F$2,000 in damage to the
car! Many cars on the road have no insurance,
so you could end up paying even if you're not re-
sponsible for the accident.
Your nome anver s license is recognizea tor
your first six months in Fiji, and driving is on the
left (as in Britain and Australia). Get an auto-
matic if you don't care to have to shift gears with
your left hand. Seat belts must be worn in the
front seat and the police are empowered to give
roadside breath-analyzer tests. The police
around Viti Levu occasionally employ hand-held
radar. Speed limits are 50 kph in towns, 80 kph
on the highway. Pedestrians have the right-of-
way at crosswalks.
Unpaved roads can be very slippery, espe-
cially on inclines. Fast-moving vehicles on the
gravel roads throw up small stones, which can
smash your front window (and you'll have to pay
the damages). As you pass oncoming cars, hold
your hand against the windshield just in case.
When approaching a Fijian village slow right
down, as there may be poorly marked speed
humps in the road. Also beware of narrow
Copyrighted material
GETTING AROUND 133
bridges, and take care with local motorists, who
sometimes stop in the middle of the road, pass
on blind curves, and drive at high speeds. Driving
can be an especially risky business at night.
Many of the roads are atrocious (check the spare
tire), although the 486-km road around Viti Levu
is now fully paved except for a 62-km stretch on
the northeast side, which is easily passable if
you go slowly. Luckily, there isn't a lot of traffic.
If you plan to use a rental car to explore the
rough country roads in Viti Levu's mountainous
interior, think twice before announcing your plans
to the agency, as they may suddenly decline
your business. The rental contracts all contain
clauses stating that the insurance coverage is not
valid under such conditions. Budget has 4WD ve-
hicles that may be driven into the interior. You're
usually not allowed to take the car to another
island by ferry. Tank up on Saturday, as many
gas stations are closed on Sunday, and always
keep the tank over half full. If you run out of gas
in a rural area, small village stores sometimes
sell fuel from drums. Expect to pay around
F$1 .33 a liter (or US$2.30 a US gallon).
Several international car rental chains are rep-
resented in Fiji, including Avis, Budget. Hertz,
and Thrifty. Local companies like Central Rent-a-
Car, Dove Rent-a-Car, Kenns Rent-a-Car, Khan's
Rental Cars, Quality Rent-a-Car, Roxy Rentals,
Satellite Rentals, Sharmas Rental Cars, and
Tanoa Rent-a-Car are often cheaper, but check
around as prices vary. The international compa-
nies rent only new cars, while the less expen-
sive local companies may offer secondhand ve-
hicles. If in doubt, check the vehicle carefully be-
fore driving off. The international franchises gen-
erally provide better support should anything go
wrong. Budget, Central, Kenns, and Khan's won't
rent to persons under age 25, while most of the
others will so long as you're over 21 .
A dozen companies have offices in the ar-
rivals concourse at Nadi Airport and three are
also at Nausori Airport. Agencies with town of-
fices in Suva include Avis, Budget, Central, Dove,
and Thrifty. In Lautoka you'll find Central. Avis
and Thrifty also have desks in many resort hotels
on Viti Levu. In northern Fiji, Budget has offices
at Labasa and on Taveuni, but the other islands
do not have rental cars.
Both unlimited-kilometer and per-kilometer
rates are available. Thrifty (tel. 722-935), run
by Rosie The Travel Service, offers unlimited-
kilometer prices from F$95/570 daily/weekly,
which include CDW (F$700 nonwaivable) and
tax, but one-day rentals have only 150 free kilo-
meters. Budget (tel. 722-735) charges F$99/594
for their cheapest mini, but F$22 a day insur-
ance (FS500 nonwaivable) is extra. Avis (tel.
722-233) begins at F$1 25/735 including insur-
ance (F$2,000 nonwaivable). Prices with Avis
and Budget may be lower if you book ahead
from the U.S. Though more expensive, the in-
ternational chains are more likely to deliver what
they promise because you've got a name to
complain to if they don't.
The insurance plans used by all of the local
companies have nonwaivable excess fees of
F$1 ,500-2,000. which makes renting from them
more risky. Also beware of companies like Satel-
lite and Tanoa which add the 10 percent tax later
(most of the others include it in the quoted price).
Of the local companies, Sharmas Rental Cars
(tel. 701-160), at Nadi Airport and next to the
ANZ Bank in Nadi town, offers unlimited-kilome-
ter rates starting at F$55 (three-day minimum),
plus FS15.50 a day insurance. On a per-kilome-
ter basis, Khan's Rental Cars (tel. 723-506) in
Nadi charges F$18 a day plus FS0.19 per kilo-
meter and FS16 CDW (F$1 ,300 nonwaivable).
Many of the local car rental agencies at Nadi
Airport offer substantial discounts on their
brochure prices for weekly rentals, and you may
be able to get a car for around F$400 a week
with kilometers, tax, and insurance included.
Don't hesitate to bargain as there's lots of com-
petition. Ask how many kilometers are on the
speedometer and beware of vehicles above
50,000 as they may be unreliable. On a per-kilo-
meter basis, you'll only want to use the car in
the local area. Some companies advertise low
prices with the qualification in fine print that these
apply only to rentals of three days or more. Most
companies charge a FS15-40 delivery fee if you
don't return the vehicle to the office where you
rented it. If you want the cheapest economy sub-
compact, reserve ahead. Also be prepared to
put up a cash deposit on the car.
If you do rent a car, remember those sudden
tropical downpours and don't leave the windows
open. Also avoid parking under coconut trees
(a falling nut might break the window), and never
go off and leave the keys in the ignition.
Copyrighted material
134 ON THE ROAD
AIRPORTS
Nadi International Airport
Nadi Airport (NAN) is between Lautoka and Nadi,
22 km south of the former and eight km north of
the latter. There are frequent buses to these
towns until around 2200. To catch a bus to Nadi
(FS0.60), cross the highway; buses to Lautoka
(F$1 .22) stop on the airport side of the road. A
few express buses drop passengers right outside
the international departures hall. A taxi from the
airport should be F$6 to downtown Nadi or F$20
to Lautoka.
As you come out of customs uniformed tour
guides will ask you where you intend to stay, in
order to direct you to a driver from that hotel.
Most Nadi hotels offer free transfers (ask) but
you ought to change money at the airport bank
before going. Agents of other hotels will try to
sign you up for the commission they'll earn. Be
polite but highly defensive in dealing with them.
The people selling stays at the outer island back-
packer resorts can be aggressive. Many of the
Yasawas and Mamanuca resorts have offices
in the airport concourse in front of you— the up-
market places downstairs, the backpacker
camps upstairs.
The actual office of the Fiji Visitors Bureau
(tel. 722-433) is beside the bank to the left as you
come out of customs. They open for all interna-
tional arrivals and can advise you on accom-
modations. Pick up their brochures, hotel lists,
and free tourist magazines.
There's a 24-hour ANZ Bank (F$2 commis-
sion) beside the Visitors Bureau and another
bank in the departure lounge. Their rates are
about one percent worse than the banks in town.
Quickly get in line to your left as soon as you
come out of Customs as the bank line moves
very slowly. Otherwise use the ATM on the wall
to your left (Visa and MasterCard accepted).
Many travel agencies and car rental compa-
nies are also located in the arrivals arcade. The
rent-a-car companies you'll find here are Avis,
Budget, Central, Hertz, Kenns, Khan's, Roxy,
Satellite, Sharmas, Tanoa, and Thrifty. All of
the international airlines flying into Nadi have of-
fices in this same arcade (Air Fiji represents
Air Vanuatu).
The post office is across the parking lot from
the arrivals hall (ask). The airport restaurant just
before the security check at departures serves
light meals. The left luggage service, near the
less expensive snack bar in the domestic de-
partures area, is open 24 hours (bicycles or surf-
boards F$6 a day, suitcases and backpacks F$4
a day, other smaller luggage F$3 a day). Most
hotels around Nadi will also store luggage.
There's zero tolerance for drugs in Fiji and a
three-dog sniffer unit checks all baggage passing
through NAN.
Duty-free shops are found in both the depar-
ture lounge and in the arrivals area just before
the baggage claim area. If you're arriving for a
prebooked stay at a deluxe resort, grab a couple
of bottles of cheap Fiji rum as drinks at the resort
bars are expensive (you can usually get mix at
the hotel shops). You can use leftover Fijian cur-
rency to stock up on cheap film and souvenirs
just before you leave (film prices here are the
lowest in the South Pacific). Prices vary slightly
at the different duty-free shops and it's worth
comparing before buying.
A departure tax of F$20 in cash Fijian cur-
rency is payable on all international flights, but
transit passengers connecting within 12 hours
and children under the age of 12 are exempt
(no airport tax on domestic flights). Have a look
at the museum exhibits near the departures
gates upstairs as you're waiting for your flight.
The airport never closes. NAN's 24-hour flight ar-
rival and departure information number is tel.
722-777.
Nausori Airport
Nausori Airport (SUV) is on the plain of the Rewa
River delta, 23 km northeast of downtown Suva.
Air Fiji runs an aviation academy at the airport.
After Hurricane Kina in January 1 993 the whole
terminal was flooded by Rewa water for several
days.
There's no special airport bus, and a taxi di-
rect to/from Suva will run about F$20. You can
save money by taking a taxi from the airport
only as far as Nausori (four km, F$4), then a
local bus to Suva from there (19 km, with ser-
Copy righted material
AIRPORTS 135
vices every 10 minutes until 2100 for FS1.35).
When going to the airport, catch a local bus
from Suva to Nausori, then a taxi to the airport
(only F$3 in this direction). It's also possible to
catch a local bus to Nausori from the highway
opposite the airport about every 15 minutes
(50 cents).
Avis, Budget, and Hertz all have car rental
offices in the terminal, and a lunch counter pro-
vides light snacks. You're not allowed to sleep
overnight at this airport. The departure tax is
F$20 on all international flights, but no tax is
levied on domestic flights. The airport information
number is tel. 478-077.
Copyrighted material
136 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
NADI
At 10,429 square km, Viti Levu is the eighth
largest island in the South Pacific, only a shade
smaller than the Big Island of Hawaii. This 1 ,323-
meter-high island accounts for over half of Fi-
ji's land area, and Nadi itself is a main gateway to
the entire South Pacific region.
Nadi International Airport faces Nadi Bay in
the center of an ancient volcano the west side of
which has fallen away. A small airstrip existed at
Nadi even before World War II, and after Peart
Harbor the Royal New Zealand Air Force began
converting it into a fighter strip. The U.S. military
soon arrived to construct a major air base with
paved runways for transport aircraft supplying
Australia and New Zealand. In the early 1960s,
Nadi Airport was expanded to accommodate jet
aircraft, and today the largest jumbo jets can land
here. This activity has made Nadi what it is.
The area's predominantly Indo-Fijian popu-
lation works the cane fields surrounding Nadi.
There aren't many sandy, palm-fringed beaches
on this western side of Viti Levu — for that you
have to go to the nearby Mamanuca Group
where a string of sun-drenched resorts soak up
vacationers in search of a place to relax. The
long gray mainland beaches near Nadi face shal-
low murky waters devoid of snorkeling possibil-
ities, but okay for windsurfing and water-skiing.
Fiji's tropical rainforests are on the other side of
Viti Levu, not on this dry side of the island.
In recent years Nadi ("NAN-di") has grown into
Fiji's third largest town with a population of 32,000.
The town center's main feature is a long stretch of
restaurants and shops with high-pressure sales
staffs peddling luxury goods and mass-produced
souvenirs. It's easily the most tourist-oriented
place in Fiji, yet there's also a surprisingly colorful
market (especially on Saturday morning) and the
road out to the airport is flanked by an excellent
choice of places to stay. Nadi is Fiji's "border
town," and to experience "real Fijian life" you have
to get beyond it. Nearby Lautoka (see the sepa-
rate Lautoka and vicinity chapter later in this hand-
book) is far less foreigner oriented.
NADI 137
NADI AND THE
MAMANUCAS
qCE AN
Sights
Nadi's only substantial sight is the Sri Siva Sub-
rahmaniya Swami Temple at the south en-
trance to town, erected by local Hindus in 1994
after the lease on their former temple property
expired. This colorful South Indian-style temple,
built by craftspeople flown in from India itself, is
the largest and finest of its kind in the South Pa-
cific. Visitors may enter this consecrated place of
worship, but shoes must be removed at the en-
trance and you must cover bare shoulders or
legs with a sulu. Smoking and photography are
prohibited inside the compound (open daily
0500-1330, 1530-2000, admission free).
Sports and Recreation
Aqua-Trek (P.O. Box 10215, Nadi Airport; tel.
702-413. fax 702-412), on Main St. opposite
Prouds in downtown Nadi. is a commercial diving
contractor and diving equipment retailer, and
they don't offer diving from Nadi itself. You can
get information here on Aqua-Trek's resort dive
centers at Mana Island, Matamanoa Island, Pa-
cific Harbor, and Taveuni.
Dive Tropex (Eddie Jennings, P.O. Box
10522, Nadi Airport; tel. 703-944, fax 703-955),
at the Sheraton Royal, offers scuba diving at
FS99/1 50/500 one/two/eight tanks including all
gear. When space is available, snorkelers can go
along for F$50. A four-day PADI certification
course is F$614. For an introductory dive it's
FS140. Several Japanese instructors are on the
staff.
Much less expensive diving is offered by Inner
Space Adventures (Frank Wright, P.O. Box
9535, Nadi Airport; tel./fax 723-883), opposite
Horizon Beach Hotel at Wailoaloa Beach. They go
out daily at 0900, charging F$65/90 for one/two
tanks, equipment and a pickup anywhere around
Nadi included. Snorkelers are welcome to tag
along at FS25 pp, gear included. Frank's four-
day open-water certification course costs F$350—
one of the least expensive PADI courses in Fiji.
Not only that, after finishing the course, you'll pay
only F$30 a dive for subsequent dives!
Atlantis Divers (P.O. Box 10655, Nadi Air-
port; tel. 702-704 or 702-911, fax 702-921) at
Club Fiji provides complimentary pickups from
Nadi hotels twice daily.
Babba's Horse-Riding (P.O. Box 2219, Nadi
Airport; tel. 724-449 or 703-652) at Wailoaloa
Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple, Nadi
138 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
AROUND NADI
Nadi Hay
Copyrighted material
NADI 139
Beach offers one-hour beach rides at F$1 5, 1 .5
hours cross-country at F$20, or a two-hour com-
bination at F$25. Longer rides can be arranged.
Call them up for information.
The 18-hole, par-70 Nadi Airport Golf Club
(P.O. Box 9015, Nadi; tel. 722-148) is pleasant-
ly situated between the airport runways and the
sea at Wailoaloa Beach. Green fees are F$15,
plus F$20 for clubs. There's a bar and pool table
in the clubhouse (tourists welcome). The course
is busy with local players on Saturday but quiet
during the week. Other golf courses are available
at the Fiji Mocambo Hotel and at the Sheratons.
The 18-hole, par-72 course at the Denarau
Golf & Racquet Club (P.O. Box 9081 , Nadi Air-
port; tel. 759-710 or 759-711, fax 750-484) op-
posite the Sheratons was designed by Eiichi Mo-
tohashi. This fabulous course features bunkers
shaped like a marlin, crab, starfish, and octopus,
and water shots across all four par-three holes
(the average golfer loses four balls per round).
Green fees are FS90 for those staying at one of
the Sheratons, or F$95 for other mortals. Golfers
are not allowed to walk around the course, but a
shared electric cart is included. Clubs can be
rented at F$30 a set. Call ahead for a starting
time, and be aware of the dress code: collared
shirt and dress shorts for men, smart casual for
women, and golf shoes for all (no jeans, bathing
suits, or metal spiked shoes). Ten tennis courts
(four floodlit) are available here at F$15/20
day/night per hour. Rackets and shoes can be
rented at FS8 each, and a can of balls is F$5.
During the June-March sports season, see
rugby or soccer on Saturdays at the A.D. Patel
Stadium, near Nadi Bus Station. You might also
see soccer on Sundays.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Under US$25 in Town
Most of the hotels offer free transport from the
airport, which is lucky because the selection
within walking distance of the terminal itself is lim-
ited. To the right as you leave Customs, you'll
see a group of people representing the hotels. If
you know which hotel you want, tell them the
name and if a driver from that hotel is present,
you should get a free ride (ask). If not, the Fiji Vis-
itors Bureau (tel. 722-433) to the left will help
you telephone them for a small fee. (The road
from the north side of Nadi town across the
bridge to the Sunseekers, White House, and
Kennedy hotels, and the isolated roads to
Wailoaloa Beach, may be unsafe, and after dark
a bus or taxi is recommended in these areas,
especially if you're carrying a backpack.)
There are three budget choices in the down-
town area, two with confusingly similar names
but under separate managements. The seedy
Nadi Downtown Motel (P.O. Box 1326, Nadi;
tel. 700-600, fax 701-541), also known as the
"Backpackers Inn," occupies the top floor of an
office building opposite the BP service station
in the center of Nadi. It's a bit of a dive, and the
only attraction is the price; F$25 single or double
with fan, F$35 with a/c, both with private bath.
The five-bed dormitory is F$8 pp, and basic
rooms with shared bath are FS20. Definitely ask
to see the room before accepting, expect dirty
sheets, and, if you're a woman, don't tolerate
any nonsense from the male motel staff. The
adjacent Caribbean Jungle Night Club sends a
steady disco beat toward the motel well into the
morning. PVV Tours below the motel arranges
transport to Nananu-i-Ra Island at F$35 pp.
Around the corner on Koroivolu Street is the
two-story, 31-room Nadi Hotel (P.O. Box 91.
Nadi; tel. 700-000, fax 700-280). Spacious rooms
with private bath begin at F$39/48 single/double
standard with fan, F$48/58 superior with a/c, or
F$15 pp in a 10-bed dorm. Deluxe rooms with
fridge are FS57/68 single/double. Baggage stor-
age is FS2.50. The neat courtyard with a swim-
ming pool out back makes this a pleasant, con-
venient place to stay. Some rooms are also sub-
jected to nightclub noise however, so ask for a
superior room in the block farthest away from
Caribbean Jungle.
The two-story Coconut Inn Hotel (P.O. Box
2756, Nadi; tel. 701-169, fax 700-616), 37 Vu-
navau St.. is around the corner from the West-
pac Bank. The 22 upstairs rooms with private
bath begin at F$33/40 single/double (plus F$12
for a/c), and downstairs is a F$1 1 dorm (three
beds). Beware of rooms without windows. It's a
decent place.
The two-story Hotel San Bruno (P.O. Box
994, Nadi; tel. 700-444, fax 703-067), on Nadi
Back Road east of the Sri Siva Subrahmaniya
Swami Temple, is Nadi's newest hotel. The 13
Copyrighted material
140 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
fan-cooled rooms are FS33/44 single/double,
while the seven with air-conditioning are F$44/55.
A miniature swimming pool is in front of the bil-
liard room. Though a bit away from the action,
the hotel offers good value.
On Narewa Road at the north edge of Nadi
town is the Sunseekers Hotel (P.O. Box 100,
Nadi; tel. 700-400, fax 702-047). The 24 rooms
here are F$39 double with fan but shared bath,
F$44 with a/c and private bath, or F$9 for a bunk
in the six-bed dorm. There's a bar on the large
deck out back, which overlooks the swimming
pool (often dry) and surrounding countryside.
Despite the sign, this is not an approved Hostel-
ing International associate but it's still popular
among backpackers. Airport pickups are free but
to return to the airport you must take a taxi (FS6).
Better is the two-story White House Visitors
Inn (P.O. Box 2150, Nadi; tel. 700-022, fax 702-
822), at 40 Kennedy Ave., up Ray Prasad Road
just off Queens Road, a 10-minute walk north of
central Nadi. The 12 fan-equipped rooms are F$30
double with shared bath, FS30/44 single/double
with private bath, or FS1 1 pp in the dorm. Rooms
with air-conditioning cost FS5 extra. The beds are
comfortable, and a weight-watchers' toast-and-
coffee breakfast is included in the price. You can
cook your own meals in the communal kitchen,
and there's a small grocery store across the street.
This hotel is a fairly peaceful place. Though you'll
hear a bit of traffic and animal noise, you won't
be bothered by disco music. But you'll probably
Tina tne small swimming pool too dirty to use. bag-
gage storage is F$1 per day (but only if you make
your outer island bookings through them).
Half a block up Kennedy Avenue from the
White House is the three-story Kennedy Hotel
(P.O. Box 9045. Nadi Airport; tel. 702-360. fax
702-218), which really belongs in our USS25-50
category though some low-budget beds are of-
fered. The 16 a/c rooms with private bath, TV,
and coffee-making facilities are FS65 single or
double without fridge, F$71 with fridge, tax in-
cluded. Deluxe two-bedroom apartments with
cooking facilities are F$110. Beds in the four
fan-cooled, four-bed dormitory blocks cost F$12
pp, or F$1 5 for a bed in the eight-bed a/c dorm.
Rooms with shared bath are F$30. The Kennedy
is quite popular but the cheaper rooms are rather
small and shabby, so have a look before com-
mitting yourself. A plus are the spacious gar-
denlike grounds with a large swimming pool,
and there's a restaurant/bar on the premises.
Under US$25 Toward the Airport
The following listings are arranged by location,
beginning with those closest to the airport, then
proceeding to those on the way into town. The
Kon Tiki Private Hotel (P.O. Box 10463, Nadi
Airport: tel. 722-836) is set in cane fields a 15-
minute walk inland from Queens Road, past the
Fiji Mocambo Hotel (Votualevu bus). The 18
rooms go for F$22/33/38 single/double/triple
with private bath and fan, F$42/46 with a/c, F$10
pp dormitory (five beds), plus tax. Some hard
drinking goes on at the hotel bar, so don't accept
a room near it. Kon Tiki is all by itself down a
side road, so you're dependent on the hotel
restaurant for food, although a small breakfast is
included and you may be able to use their
kitchen. They arrange daily transfers to Nananu-
i-Ra Island at F$20 each way.
The Melanesian Hotel (P.O. Box 10410,
Nadi Airport; tel. 722-438, fax 720-425), at Na-
maka. has two wings separated by a swimming
pool, bar, and restaurant. The 16 rooms with
bath in the old wing begin at FS33/40 single/dou-
ble, plus F$10 extra for air-conditioning. Four
five-bed dorms (F$12 pp) are also available.
The Melanesian's pride and joy is the new
Grand Melanesian Apartment Hotel wing on
the highway with 22 deluxe a/c rooms with fridge
and TV at F$66 for up to three people. All in all,
it's a pleasant place to stop.
Much more basic (and rather sleazy) is the
Holiday Inn (P.O. Box 1326, Nadi; tel. 725-076,
fax 701-541), also known as the Rainbow Inn
(no connection with the famous Holiday Inn
chain). Rooms with private facilities in their old
single-story block are FS22/27 single/double.
ir-conaitionmg is r$o more, bargaining could re-
duce these prices. The Holiday Inn offers shared
cooking facilities, luggage storage, and a bar.
It's run by PVV Tours and not recommended.
Across the street from the Shell service station
in Martintar and above the Bounty Restaurant is
Mountainview Apartments (P.O. Box 1476.
Nadi: tel. 721-880, fax 721-800) with six fan-
cooled rooms with bath at FS25/28 single/double.
The two a/c rooms are F$35 single or double.
Two family rooms are FS40/45 fan/air condi-
tioned. It's okay for the price but rather dreary.
Copyrighted material
NADI 141
A bright, new place to stay is the Sunview
Motel & Hostel (P.O. Box 9103, Nadi Airport; tel.
724-933), 300 meters down Gray Road behind
Bounty Restaurant. The seven rooms in their
new two-story building are F$30/35 single/dou-
ble, or F$12 pp in a six-bed dorm, with toast,
coffee, and juice in the morning included. Cook-
ing facilities are available, and it's clean, quiet,
and friendly.
The 14-room Sunny Holiday Motel (P.O.
Box 1326, Nadi Airport; tel. 722-644, fax 701-
541), on Northern Press Road behind The Night
Owl Restaurant, is the cheapest place to stay
around Nadi. It's F$1 1/17 single/double with
shared bath, F$22/25 with private bath, or F$6 in
the four-bed dorm. Self-contained apartments
with cooking facilities are F$28/33, plus tax. In-
veterate campers might like to know that this is
about the only place in the area where you're
allowed to unroll a tent (F$4 pp). There's a pool
table, TV room. bar. and luggage storage. It's
all a little run-down, but friendly, uncrowded, and
fine for those on shoestring budgets (but not
recommended for single women). The Sunny
Holiday books the daily PVV Tours shuttle to
Nananu-i-Ra Island at F$30 one-way.
The three-story Good Time Inn (P.O. Box
377, Nadi: tel. 725-610), on Queens Road just
south of Martintar, has 20 noisy rooms with bath
at F$25/35 single/double. It's best avoided unless
you're in for a brief encounter with one of the
resident "girls."
A few hundred meters down Wailoaloa Beach
Road off the main highway, in the opposite di-
rection from the Sunny Holiday, is the Nadi Bay
Hotel (Private Mail Bag, NAP 0359, Nadi; tel.
723-599, fax 720-092), a two-story concrete ed-
ifice enclosing a swimming pool. The 25 rooms
are F$35/45 single/double with fan, F$20 extra
for private bath and air-conditioning. An apart-
ment with cooking facilities is FS68/82 single/dou-
ble. There's also a F$15 dorm. Other features in-
clude a congenial bar and an inexpensive restau-
rant. The airport flight path passes right above
the Nadi Bay and the roar of jets on the adjacent
runway can be jarring. The Nadi Bay is run by an
old Fiji hand named Errol Fifer, who once owned
Mana Island. Fifer is an interesting person to
meet. Recently the Nadi Bay Hotel has begun
serving as a staging point for backpackers head-
ed for the low-budget beach resorts around
Tavewa Island in the Yasawas, and the motel
staff will know all about it.
Under US$25 at the Beach
There are seven inexpensive places to stay on
Wailoaloa Beach, also known as New Town
Beach, on the opposite side of the airport runway
from the main highway. Four of these lodgings
are near the seaplane base and golf club, a
dusty three-km hike from the Nadi Bay Hotel.
Ask for their free shuttle buses at the airport or
take a taxi (F$6 from the airport or F$3 from the
junction at Martintar). The Wailoaloa New Town
bus (F$0.50) leaves Nadi Bus Station Mon.-Fri.
at 0630, 0715, 0815, 1115, 1510, and 1610,
Sat. at 0630, 0715, 0815, 1100, 1200, 1510,
and 1610 (no service on Sunday).
The Wailoaloa Beach places are probably
your best bet on the weekend, and sporting
types can play a round of golf on the public
course or go jogging along the beach (the swim-
ming in the knee-deep water isn't great). The
main base of Inner Space Adventures is here,
and horseback riding is also on offer.
On your way to the beach you'll pass the
Western Hostel (P.O. Box 9609, Nadi Airport;
tel. 724-440) on Wailoaloa Road. Rooms here
are F$30/45 single/double, or F$12 pp in the
dorm, continental breakfast included. This hos-
tel provides communal cooking, laundry, and
TV facilities. It's a little far from everything.
The popular Horizon Beach Hotel (P.O. Box
1401 , Nadi; tel. 722-832, fax 720-662) is a large
wooden two-story building just across a field
from the beach. The 14 rooms with bath begin at
F$35/39 single/double with fan, F$45 with a/c.
Horizon's 10-bed dormitory is F$10 pp. No cook-
ing facilities are provided but there's a medium-
priced restaurant/bar. To use the washer/drier is
F$10 a full load. The Horizon is an excellent
choice if you're interested in doing some budget
scuba diving or taking a certification course with
Inner Space Adventures across the street.
A hundred meters inland from the Horizon is
the friendly two-story New Town Beach Motel
(P.O. Box 787, Nadi; tel. 723-339). The seven
clean rooms with fan are F$39 single or double
(or F$14 pp in the five-bed dorm). There's no
cooking, but a huge dinner is offered at F$8.
A hundred meters along the beach from the
Horizon is Travelers Beach Resort (P.O. Box
Copyrighted material
142 NADIANDTHEMAMANUCAS
700, Nadi; tel. 723-322, fax 720-026). The 12
fan-cooled standard rooms with private bath are
F$33/39 single/double, the eight a/c rooms
F$39/50, the two a/c beachfront rooms F$55
single or double, and the 13 villas with kitch-
enette F$66 for up to four. Four four-bed dorms
are provided at F$1 1 pp. The villas are tightly
packed in a compound a block back from the
beach. There's an expensive restaurant/bar and
a swimming pool, but many of the other facilities
listed in their brochure seem to have vanished.
The management style leaves something to be
desired and complaints have been received.
Opposite the Travelers Beach Resort villas
is a large modern house called Mana Rose
Apartments (P.O. Box 2845, Nadi; tel. 723-333,
fax 720-552). Ratu Kini Bokoniqiwa uses this
place to accommodate backpackers on their
way to his hostel on Mana Island. The three six-
bed a/c dorms are F$15 pp including breakfast,
private rooms FS25/45 single/double, and there's
a plush lounge where you can relax. It you're
not on your way to Mana, you may find the tran-
sient atmosphere unappealing.
Also on Wailoaloa Beach, a kilometer south-
west of the places just mentioned, is Club Fiji
Beach Resort (P.O. Box 9619. Nadi Airport; tel.
702-189, fax 720-350). It's three kilometers off
Queens Road from McDonald's (F$3 one-way by
taxi). The 24 thatched duplex bungalows, all
with veranda, private bath, solar hot water, and
fridge, are priced according to location: F$55
single or double for a garden unit, F$95 ocean
view. The eight a/c beachfront suites in a two-
story building are F$160/173 double/triple. One
duplex has been converted into a pair of 12-per-
son dormitories with bunk beds at F$1 1 pp. Club
Fiji's staff does its utmost to keep the accom-
modations and grounds spotless. The atmos-
phere is friendly and relaxed, and you'll meet
other travelers at the bar. Tea- and coffee-mak-
ing facilities are provided, but there's no cooking.
The Club's restaurant serves authentic Fijian
food (main plates around F$9). Special evening
events include the lovo on Thursday and the
beach barbecue on Saturday night. Horseback
riding is F$15 an hour, the Hobie cat is F$20 an
hour, and windsurfing and paddle boats are com-
plimentary. The day tour to Natadola Beach and
the two-island boat trip each cost F$45 with
lunch. Atlantis Divers (tel. 702-704) runs a dive
shop at Club Fiji. For certified divers, there are
two trips a day, otherwise sign up for a course. At
low tide the beach resembles a tidal flat, but
there's a small clean swimming pool, and the
location is lovely.
Also very good is the Beachside Resort (P.O.
Box 9883, Nadi Airport; tel. 703-488, fax 703-
688), next to Club Fiji at Wailoaloa Beach. The
15 clean a/c rooms in the main building are
FS68/78 double/triple (reduced rates sometimes
available). The rooms have fridges and tea/cof-
fee, but no cooking facilities. Adjacent to the
main building are three bare at F$120 double,
plus two smaller budget studios at F$44 dou-
ble. Beachside's breakfast and dinner plan is
F$30 (attractive dining room, fresh food). De-
spite the name, the Beachside isn't right on the
beach, although it does have a swimming pool.
A timeshare condo development called "Fanta-
sy Beach Estate" is next door and beach ac-
cess is possible through the Fantasy complex.
There's also a yacht marina here. Your New
Zealander hosts Philip and Jane will try to make
you happy (with the help of offspring George
and Ophelia, and their two cats).
US$25-50
The medium-priced selections that follow are
highly competitive and they often run specials
that reduce the quoted rates by a third. Rosie's
Deluxe Serviced Apartments (P.O. Box 9268,
Nadi Airport; tel. 722-755, fax 722-607), in Mar-
tintar near Ed's Bar, offers studio apartments
accommodating four at F$69, one-bedrooms for
up to five at F$92, and two-bedrooms for up to
seven at F$1 23. All eight a/c units have cooking
facilities, fridge, and private balcony. You may
use the communal washer and drier free. Mart-
intar Bakery next store sells bread, muffins, and
newspapers. It's mostly used by people in tran-
sit and there's no swimming pool. The Rosie
The Travel Service office at the airport is the
place to check for specials and availability. Free
airport transfers are provided in both directions,
even in the middle of the night.
Sandalwood Lodge (John and Ana Birch,
P.O. Box 9454, Nadi Airport; tel. 722-044, fax
720-103), 200 meters inland on Ragg Street
near the Dominion International Hotel, has 34
a/c rooms with bath, Sky TV, fridge, and cooking
facilities at FS64/70/76 single/double/triple, plus
NADI 143
tax. In 2001 the Birches closed an older wing,
which they had operated since 1981, that was
closer to Queens road and moved their entire
operation to this new complex. Two of the two-
story blocks facing the swimming pool were built
in 1992 and a third was added in 2001 . Sandal-
wood caters to couples and families in search of
a quiet, safe place to stay.
The West's Motor Inn (P.O. Box 10097, Nadi
Airport; tel. 720-044, fax 720-071 ), also near the
Dominion International, is another good choice.
The 62 a/c rooms with private bath and fridge
begin at F$55 single or double standard (or F$99
for a larger deluxe room). The name really
doesn't do justice to this pleasant two-story resort
hotel with its courtyard swimming pool, piano
bar, restaurant, conference room, secretarial
services, and UTC tour desk.
The Capricorn International Hotel (P.O Box
9043, Nadi Airport; tel. 720-088, fax 720-522),
between The West's Motor Inn and The Night
Owl Restaurant, consists of two-story blocks
surrounding a swimming pool. The 62 small a/c
rooms with fridge begin at F$85 single or double.
Cooking facilities are not provided, but there's a
restaurant/bar on the premises. Michael's Rent-
a-Car and UTC Tours have desks here.
USS50-100
The listings that follow are arranged starting
from the airport heading into town. The Tokato-
ka Resort Hotel (P.O. Box 9305. Nadi Airport;
tel. 720-222, fax 720-400), a short walk north
from the airport terminal, caters to families with
young children by offering 1 16 a/c villas and
rooms with cooking facilities, mini-fridge, and
video beginning at F$137 single or double. Eight
rooms for guests with disabilities are available.
Anyone planning a business meeting in Nadi
should inquire about the 200-seat conference
room that is provided free when at least 10 hotel
rooms are booked. A Jack's Handicrafts outlet
and a large designer swimming pool with a water
slide are on the premises. A different buffet is of-
fered every night (F$22 including tea/coffee).
The two-story, colonial-style Raffles Gate-
way Hotel (P.O. Box 9891. Nadi Airport; tel.
722-444, fax 720-620), just across the highway
from the airport, is within easy walking distance
of the terminal. Its 92 a/c rooms begin at F$1 17
single or double. Happy hour at the poolside bar
is 1800-1900— worth checking out if you're stuck
at the airport waiting for a flight.
People on brief prepaid stopovers in Fiji are
often accommodated at one of three hotels off
Votualevu Road, a couple of kilometers inland
from the airport (take a taxi). The closest to the
terminal is Tanoa Apartments (P.O. Box 921 1 ,
Nadi Airport; tel. 723-685, fax 721-193), on a
hilltop overlooking the surrounding countryside.
The 23 self-catering apartments begin at FS164
(weekly and monthly rates available). Facilities in-
clude a swimming pool, hot tub, and sauna. First
opened in lyoo, tms property was tne forerunner
of today's locally owned Tanoa hotel chain.
A few hundred meters inland from Tanoa
Apartments is the Malaysian-owned Fiji Mo-
cambo Hotel (P.O. Box 9195, Nadi Airport; tel.
722-000, fax 720-324). a sprawling two-story
hotel with mountain views from the spacious
grounds. The 127 a/c rooms with patio or bal-
cony and fridge begin at F$198 for up to three
persons including breakfast. Secretarial services
can be arranged for businesspeople, confer-
ence facilities and a swimming pool are avail-
able, and there's a par-27. nine-hole executive
golf course on the adjacent slope (free for
guests). Lots of in-house entertainment is of-
fered, including a meke once a week. A live
band plays in the Marau Lounge Wednes-
day-Saturday 1800-2330.
Across the street from the Fiji Mocambo is
the two-story Tanoa International Hotel (P.O.
Box 9203, Nadi Airport; tel. 720-277, fax 720-
191), formerly the Nadi Travelodge Hotel. It's
now the flagship of the Tanoa hotel chain owned
by local businessman Yanktesh Permal Reddy.
The 133 superior a/c rooms with fridge are
FS190 single or double, F$400 suite, and chil-
dren under 16 may stay free. They have a half-
price day-use rate, which gives you a room from
noon until midnight if you're leaving in the middle
of the night (airport transfers are free). The hotel's
coffee shop is open 24 hours a day, and a swim-
ming pool, fitness center, floodlit tennis courts,
and a UTC tour desk are on the premises.
Several kilometers southwest of the airport to-
ward town on Queens Road is the Skylodge
Hotel (P.O. Box 9222, Nadi Airport; tel. 722-200.
fax 724-330), which was constructed in the early
1960s while Nadi Airport was being expanded
to take jet aircraft. Airline crews on layovers orig-
Copy righted material
144 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
inally stayed here, and business travelers still
make up 50 percent of the clientele. The Sky-
lodge belongs to the Tanoa hotel chain. The 53
a/c units begin at F$1 10 single or double; children
under 16 are free, provided the bed configurations
aren't changed. It's better to pay F$22 more here
and get a room with cooking facilities in one of the
four-unit clusters well-spaced among the green-
ery, rather than a smaller room in the main build-
ing or near the busy highway. If you're catching a
flight in the middle of the night there's a F$55
"day use" rate valid from 1 800 to midnight. Pitch-
and-putt golf, half-size tennis facilities, a swim-
ming pool, and a UTC tour desk are on the
grounds. Airport transfers are free.
The Dominion International Hotel (P.O. Box
9178, Nadi Airport; tel. 722-255, fax 720-187),
halfway between the airport and town, is one of
Nadi's nicest hotels. This appealing three-story
building was built in 1973, and they've done their
best to keep the place up. The 85 a/c rooms
with balcony or terrace are F$1 16/1 21/1 30 sin-
gle/double/triple, plus FS20 extra if you want a
"deluxe" with a TV and a bath tub instead of a
shower. Their 50 percent discount on an ex-
tended stay rate allows you to keep your room
until 2200. If you stay six nights, the seventh is
free. Lots of well shaded tables and chairs sur-
round the swimming pool, and the nearby hotel
bar has a happy hour 1 800-1900 daily. On Sat-
urday night you'll be treated to a meke (F$23).
There's a Rosie There is a travel service desk at
the Dominion, a barber shop/beauty salon, and
a taxi stand. The hotel bottle shop facing the
highway is open Monday-Friday 1100-2100,
Saturday 1100-1400, 1600-2100, should you
wish to stock your fridge. The tennis court is free
for guests (day use only). The atmosphere is
relaxed and not at all pretentious.
USS150and up
Nadi's big transnational resorts, the Sheraton
Royal and the Sheraton Fiji, are on Denarau
Beach opposite Yakuilau Island, seven kilome-
ters west of the bridge on the north side of Nadi
town and a 15-minute drive from the airport.
These are Nadi's only upmarket hotels right on
the beach, although the gray sands here can't
match those on the Mamanuca Islands. The
murky waters lapping Sheraton shores are okay
for swimming, and two pontoons have been an-
chored in deeper water, but there'd be no point in
snorkeling here. Windsurfing, water-skiing, and
sailing are better choices for activities.
Sidestepping the Waikiki syndrome, neither
hotel is taller than the surrounding palms, though
the manicured affluence has a dull Hawaiian
neighbor-island feel. In 1993 a F$15-million
championship golf course opened on the site of
a former mangrove swamp adjacent to the resort,
and in 1996 ITT-Sheraton bought both resorts
from the Japanese interests that had controlled
them since 1988. Two-thirds of the hotel staff
and all of the taxi drivers based here belong to
the clan that owns the land on which these fa-
cilities stand. Plans for additional resort devel-
opment in this area by Hilton and Accor/Novotel
were put on hold after the May 2000 coup.
Almost all of the tourists staying at the Dena-
rau resorts are on package tours, and they pay
only a fraction of the rack rates quoted below. If
you call, ask if there are any specials available.
Both hotels are rather isolated, and the hotel
restaurants are pricey, so you should take the
meal package if you intend to spend most of
your time here. Also bring insect repellent unless
you want to be on the menu!
The Sheraton Royal Denarau Resort (P.O.
Box 9081 , Nadi Airport; tel. 750-000, fax 750-
259) opened in 1975 as The Regent of Fiji. This
sprawling series of two-story clusters with tra-
ditional Fijian touches contains 274 spacious
a/c rooms between the golf course and the
beach. Facilities include an impressive lobby
with shops to one side, a thatched pool bar you
can swim right up to, and 10 floodlit tennis courts.
Due to a downturn in tourism in 2000, the Sher-
aton Royal was closed from June 2000 to March
2001 . Hopefully this situation won't recur.
The Sheraton Royal's neighbor, the modern-
style Sheraton Fiji Resort (P.O. Box 9761 , Nadi
Airport; tel. 750-777, fax 750-818), has 292 a/c
rooms that begin at F$545 single or double in-
cluding a buffet breakfast and nonmotorized
sports. For the presidential suite it's F$1 ,133.
This US$60-million two-story hotel opened in
1987, complete with a 16-shop arcade and an
800-seat ballroom. Outstanding among the hotel
boutiques is Michoutouchkine Creations with
hand-decorated clothing by two of the Pacific's
most famous artists, and the Pacific Art Shop
with local paintings. Avis Rent-a-Car, UTC Tours,
Copyrighted material
NADI 145
and the Westpac Bank all have counters at the
Sheraton Fiji.
Between the two Sheratons and opposite the
golf club is a cluster of two-story buildings called
Sheraton Denarau Villas (P.O. Box 9761 . Nadi
Airport; tel. 750-777). which opened in 1999.
The 82 two- and three-bedroom a/c condos have
kitchenettes, washer/drier. TV, and lounge, be-
ginning at F$885 for two adults and two children
including breakfast. The swimming pool and bar
face the beach.
Another new development, a bit south of the
Sheraton Fiji Resort, is the Trendwest Resort
(tel. 750-442, fax 750-441 ). It features as series
of three-story blocks facing a large pool with a
swim-up bar. Most of the 76 spacious self-cater-
ing apartments in this "vacation ownership resort"
have been sold to individual buyers under a
timeshare arrangement with WorldMark. Dive
Tropex runs the scuba concession here.
A local bus between Nadi and the Sheratons
operates about every hour (FS0.50). It leaves
Nadi Bus Station Monday-Saturday at 0800,
0830, 0930. 1015. 1100. 1200, 1300, 1430, and
1700, Sunday at 0830. 0930, 1300, and 1430.
For the departure times from the Sheratons, add
about 25 minutes to these times (which could
change).
A taxi to/from Nadi town should be around
F$6, though the cabs parked in front of the hotels
will expect much more — perhaps as much as
F$20 to the airport. Walk down the road a short
distance and stop any taxi returning empty to
Nadi, which shouldn't ask over F$3. If your trav-
el agent booked you into any of these resorts,
you'll be wrapped in North American security
and well sheltered from the real Fiji (the Ma-
manuca resorts are better value if your main in-
terest is the beach).
FOOD
Downtown Restaurants
The Daikoku Japanese Restaurant (tel. 703-
622; Mon.-Sat. 1130-1330, 1800-2100, Sun.
1800-2100), facing the bridge at the north end of
Nadi, is the place to splurge on teppan-yaki Wish-
es (F$2CM8) cooked right at your table.
Two good pizza places are opposite the Mobil
service station on Main Street at the north end
An Indo-Fijian family enjoys a watermelon.
of Nadi town. Mama's Pizza Inn (tel. 700-221)
serves pizzas big enough for two or three people
at F$7-23. Mama's has a second location in Colo-
nial Plaza halfway out toward the airport. Conti-
nental Cakes & Pizza (tel. 703-595; daily 0900
until late), just down from Mama's, has three sizes
of pizza from FS7-19, plus deli rolls for FS3.50,
and delicious cakes for FS2 and up. Their coffee
is about the best in town, and the clean wash-
rooms are a relief. The German owner Dietmar
Luecke makes sure everything is just right.
Package tour buses often park in front of Chefs
The Corner (closed Sun.), Sagayam Road and
Main Street opposite Morris Hedstrom. This rather
expensive self-service restaurant (entrees FS6)
does have some of the best-selling ice cream in
town (FS2-4). Just down Sangayam Road are
Chefs The Edge (Mon.-Sat. 0900-2200) and
Chefs The Restaurant (tel. 703-131 ; Mon-Sat.
1100-1400, 1800-2200), both run by former
Sheraton chef Eugene Gomes. At dinner the
seafood and meat entrees average FS36, or you
can order something from the grill. It's interna-
tional dining at its finest.
Chopsticks Restaurant (tel. 700-178;
Mon.-Sat. 1000-2200, Sun. 0900-1400, 1800-
2200), upstairs from the Bank of Baroda on the
main street, offers a large selection of Chinese
ed material
146 NADIANDTHEMAMANUCAS
dishes, curries, and seafood at excellent prices
(entrees F$4-10). A second Chopsticks loca-
tion (tel. 721-788) is next to Morris Hedstrom at
Namaka toward the airport.
The Mid-Town Curry Restaurant (tel. 700-
536; closed Sun.), around the comer from Chop-
sticks on Clay Street, serves real Indo-Fijian
dishes ( FS3-4) instead of the usual tourist fare,
which means very spicy. Come early as they
close at 1800. (Don't confuse this place with the
tourist-oriented Curry Restaurant next to Ma-
ma's Pizza Inn.)
Be aware that the sidewalk terrace restau-
rants near Victory Tours (the Tourist Information
Center) on the main street in the center of Nadi
are strictly for tourists not familiar with the local
price structure.
Cardos Steakhouse & Bar
(tel. 750-900; daily 1000-2300),
at the Denarau Marina, offers
chargrilled steaks of 250, 300,
or 400 grams for F$21-37.
Other meals from prawns to
pizza cost F$1 3.50-31. 50.
You'll get a good view of Nadi's
bustling tourist port from their
terrace. It's a perfect place to
eat out if you're staying at the
Sheratons.
Restaurants
Toward the Airport
Poon's Restaurant (tel. 725-
396), on Northern Press Road
just east off Queens Road, be-
side a textile factory opposite
The Night Owl at Martintar, of-
fers filling meals at reasonable
prices. The pleasant atmos-
phere and friendly service are
pluses. Ordinary Chinese dish-
es are F$3-10, special Chinese
dishes FS6-13, and European
dishes F$5-10. Complete Can-
tonese meals are FS38/76 for
two/four people.
RJ'sfor Ribs (tel. 722-900;
Tues.-Sun. 1800-2300), in the
Millennium Center opposite the
Dominion International Hotel, has a sister es-
tablishment in Beverly Hills, California. Pork bar-
becue ribs run F$19, cordon bleu F$27, and a
skewer of garlic prawns F$29 (all meals include
the salad bar). Drinks at the Skytop Bar on the
roof average FS2.50 (Mongolian barbecue F$6).
See Star Sports TV and DVDs here, and some-
times there's live music. The Liberty Bar is on the
ground floor of the same complex.
The Bounty Restaurant (Veronika and Brian
Smith, tel. 720-840), a bit north and across the
highway, has Chinese dishes and hamburgers
for lunch, steaks and seafood for dinner. Lunch
dishes average FS8 here, while dinner plates
are FS15-25. There's also a popular tourist bar
(happy hour 1700-1900). Many other restau-
rants are nearby and a good way to choose
CENTRAL NADI
A MAMA'S i L
- % AQUA-TRE*
To Airport
/ ' D4MOKU
<2> GALAXY 2 ■
r CINEMA
CHEFS THE CORNER -
An ▼
I :
I :
i
1*- M.0-
CURRY " 0* RAM RAJU
VICTORY
B^kTATION
\\ Hoipita
CIVIC
.CENTER
. POST OFFICE
VUHAVOU
■ £
AD." J '
K0A01V0LU
• NA0I HOTEL
CARIBBEAN JUNGLE
AVE.
POLICE
STATION
5 *NADI DOWNTOWN
250 yd*
:.M)in
BAC*
To Suva
/
TATA'S CURRV
COTTAGE
pyrigr
NADI 147
among them is to check who is seated at their ta-
bles (no customers is a bad sign).
The Maharaja Restaurant (tel. 722-962), out
near the Skylodge Hotel, is popular with flight
crews who come for the spicy Indian curries,
tandoori dishes, and fresh local seafood (main
dishes FS6-20). It s open daily, but on Sunday
for dinner only (1 700-2200).
ENTERTAINMENT
Nadi has three movie houses: Galaxy 2 Cinema
(tel. 700-176), on Ashram Road between Tappoo
and the Farmers Club; Jupiter Cinema, next to
the Coconut Inn on Vunavau Street; and Novelty
Cinema (tel. 700-155), upstairs from the mall
at the Nadi Civic Center, not far from the post of-
fice. All show an eclectic mix of Hollywood and
Bollywood films.
Bars and Clubs
The Nadi Farmers Club (tel. 700-415; Mon-
Thurs. 1000-2200, Fri. and Sat. 1000-2300.
Sun. 0900-2100), just up Ashram Road from
the Mobil station in Nadi town, is a good local
drinking place where tourists are welcome. Be
sure to check the club's restaurant at back of the
building, which serves some of the best cur-
ries in Fiji at FS3-6. The restaurant is open the
same hours as the club, except Sunday when
they close at 1 500. It may be the best place to
eat in Nadi.
Caribbean Jungle Night Club, next to the
Nadi Hotel, has a live rock band 2100-0100 on
Friday and Saturday nights. It's not a tourist
scene, so be prepared. Locals call it "the zoo."
Martintar's top evening venue is The Night
Owl (tel. 721-772; Tues.-Sun. 1800-0100), with
a large restaurant and bar (happy hour 1800-
2000). Admission to the bar is free except when
there's a band and dancing. The restaurant is
good for an upscale dinner (entrees around
F$16). and you have a choice of dining on their
open terrace or in an air-conditioned room. It's a
worthy choice for a night out and the security is
good, but take a taxi back to your hotel.
Ed's Bar (tel. 724-650), a little north of the
Dominion International Hotel, has a friendly
young staff and you'll meets locals as well as
tourists here. It's something of a surfer hang-
out. Happy hour is 1700-2000 daily, with live
music Friday nights (no cover). A plate of six
big. spicy barbecued wings is F$6.
The Airport Club (tel. 722-148; Mon.-Thurs.
1 100-2300, Fri. and Sat. 1 100-0200), in the Air-
port Housing Area down the road past Namaka
Police Station and almost underneath the airport
control tower, is an old-fashioned colonial club
with tables overlooking the runways. It's an in-
teresting place to sit and drink draft beer as planes
soar above the swimming pool.
Cultural Shows for Visitors
The Sheraton Fiji (tel. 750-777) has a meke
and magiti (feast) Thursday at 1800 (F$49).
148 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
Wednesday at 2000 Fijian firewalking comes
with the meke and a F$12 fee is charged.
You can also enjoy a lovo feast and meke at
the Dominion International Hotel (tel. 722-
255) on Saturday (F$23).
Shopping
The Nadi Handicraft Market, opposite the Nadi
Hotel just off Main Street, provides you with the
opportunity to buy directly from the handicraft's
producers. Several large curio emporia are along
Main Street, including Jack's Handicrafts (tel.
700-744), opposite Morris Hedstrom. Visit a few
of these before going to the market, to get an
idea what's available and how much your pre-
ferred items should cost.
Sogo Fiji (tel. 701-614), opposite the Bank
of Hawaii, is the place to pick up tropical clothing
and beachware. Prouds and Tappoo on the main
street sell the type of shiny luxury goods usually
seen in airport duty-free shops. Just beware of
the friendly handshake in Nadi, for you may find
yourself buying something you neither care for
nor desire.
If you have an interest in world literature, you
can purchase Indian classics and books on yoga
at the Sri Ramakrishna Ashram (P.O. Box 716,
Nadi; tel. 702-786), across the street from the
Farmers Club (Mon.-Fri. 0800-1300 and
1400-1700, Sat. 0800-1230). There's a prayer
session in the Ashram on Sunday morning, fol-
lowed by a vegetarian feast.
Caines Photofast (tel. 701-608. 249 Main St. at
Park St.) does one-hour color film developing.
INFORMATION
The Fiji Visitors Bureau office (P.O. Box 9217,
Nadi Airport; tel. 722-433, fax 720-141) is in the ar-
rivals concourse at the airport. There's no tourist
information office in downtown Nadi, although a
certain travel agency masquerades as one.
The Nadi Town Council Library (P.O. Box
241, Nadi; tel. 700-133, extension 126; Mon.-Fri.
0900-1700, Sat. 0900-1300) is upstairs in the
mall at the Nadi Civic Center on Main Street.
Travel Agents
Rosie The Travel Service (tel. 702-726), at
Nadi Airport and opposite the Nadi Handicraft
Market in town, is a reputable in-bound tour op-
erator that books somewhat upmarket tours, ac-
tivities, and accommodations. They'll often give
you a discount on their day tours and trekking if
you book directly with them. Adventure Fiji (tel.
725-598), two offices down from Rosie at the
airport, is a branch of Rosie specifically oriented
toward backpackers. The United Touring Com-
pany (tel. 722-81 1 ), at the airport and several ho-
tels, is similar to Rosie and quite reliable.
The largest backpacker-oriented travel agency
is Victory Tours (P.O. Box 251, Nadi; tel. 700-
243, fax 702-746; Mon.-Sat. 0800-1700, Sun.
0930-1500) with offices in central Nadi and up-
stairs from arrivals at the airport. Their signposts
read 'Tourist Information Center," but this is a
purely commercial operation. Victory sells a va-
riety of 4WD and trekking "inland safari" excur-
sions into the Nausori Highlands, and books
low-budget beach resorts on Mana, Malolo,
Tavewa, and Waya islands. Their prices oscillate
according to supply and demand, and 10 percent
tax will be added to any amount they quote.
Pacific Valley View Tours (tel. 700-600), at
the Nadi Downtown Motel, is similar. Better
known as PW Tours, their specialty is Nananu-
i-Ra bookings and transfers. Prices vary here
and bargaining might work.
Many other budget travel agencies upstairs
from the arrivals concourse at Nadi Airport make
the same sort of bookings as Victory and PVV.
For example, there's Rabua's Travel Agency
(P.O. Box 10385, Nadi Airport; tel./fax 721-377)
in office No. 23. The friendly manager Ulaiasi
"Rambo" Rabua books Wayalailai Resort on
Wayasewa (his home island) and most other
offshore backpacker resorts. Margaret Travel
Service (Margaret and Tom Tinitali, P.O. Box
9831 , Nadi Airport; tel. 721-988, fax 721-992), in
office No. 9, and Loma at Island Travel Tours
(tel. 724-033 or 725-930). in office No. 14, do
the same. Among the backpacker resorts with of-
fices of their own upstairs at the airport are Ratu
Kini of Mana in office No. 33, Coral View of Tave-
wa in office No. 35, and David's Place of Tavewa
in office No. 31 . We've received several com-
plaints about f-iji Holiday connections in ottice
No. 8, and experiences with the airport agents
have been mixed.
There's little or no government regulation of the
Nadi travel agencies, and some are rather ques-
Copy righted material
NADI 149
tionable. To increase their business they'll often
promise things the managers of the resorts may
be unwilling or unable to provide. Cases of trav-
elers reserving and prepaying a double room
then ending up in the dormitory are not unknown.
Other times you'll be assured that the boat of
one resort will drop you at another, only to have
the boatkeeper refuse to do so.
For this reason it's better to avoid prepaying
too much at the Nadi travel agencies, so as to re-
tain some bargaining leverage. This is espe-
cially true when planning an itinerary that in-
volves staying at more than one resort. If you
can manage to pay the boat fare one-way only
(instead of round-trip), it'll be a lot easier to switch
resorts, or just to walk out if the place you booked
in Nadi isn't as nice as they said it would be.
Otherwise tell the agent you want to use the
South Sea Cruises ferries, which aren't directly
connected to any resort. These agents collect
commissions as high as 30 percent from the re-
sorts and are unable to give you discounts, no
matter what they say. Remember too that the
Nadi agents only promote properties that pay
them commissions, which are passed on to you
in the end. If they warn you not to go some-
where, it may be because they don't get an ad-
equate commission from that place.
Airline Offices
Reconfirm your flight, request a seat assign-
ment, or check the departure time by calling
your airline: Aircalin (tel. 722-145), Air Nauru
(tel. 722-795), Air New ZeaJand (tel. 722-955), Air
Pacific (tel. 720-888), Air Vanuatu (tel. 722-521),
Ansett Australia (tel. 722-076), Korean Airlines
(tel. 721-043), Qantas Airways (tel. 722-880),
Royal Tongan Airlines (tel. 724-355), and
Solomon Airlines (tel. 722-831). All of these of-
fices are at the airport.
SERVICES
Money
The Westpac Bank opposite the Nadi Handi-
craft Market, the ANZ Bank near Morris Hed-
strom, and the Bank of Hawaii between these,
will change traveler's checks without commis-
sion. They're open Monday-Thursday
0930-1500, Friday 0930-1600. If you need a
Visa/MasterCard ATM, go to the ANZ Bank
branches in downtown Nadi, at Namaka toward
the airport, and at the airport itself. The Bank of
Hawaii has a Bankoh ATM.
Money Exchange (tel. 703-366; Mon.-Fri.
0830-1700, Sat. 0830-1300), between the ANZ
Bank and Morris Hedstrom, changes cash and
traveler's checks without commission at a rate
comparable to the banks.
Thomas Cook Travel (tel. 703-1 10; Mon.-Fri.
0830-1700, Sat. 0830-1200), beside Prouds
on Main Street, is a good source of the ban-
knotes of other Pacific countries— convenient if
you'll be flying to Australia, New Caledonia, New
Zealand, Samoa, Solomon Islands, Tonga, or
Vanuatu and don't want the hassle of having to
change money at a strange airport upon arrival.
They'll also change leftover banknotes of these
countries into Fiji dollars.
Tapa International (tel. 722-325), in the ar-
rivals concourse at Nadi Airport, is the Ameri-
can Express representative. If you buy travel-
er's checks from them using a personal check or
your American Express card, you'll have to ac-
tually pick up the checks at the ANZ Bank in
Nadi town, so go early.
Post
There are two large post offices, one next to the
market in central Nadi, and another between
the cargo warehouses directly across the park in
front of the arrivals hall at Nadi Airport. Check
both if you're expecting general delivery mail.
Nadi Town Post Office near the market receives
faxes sent to 702-166. At the Nadi Airport Post
Office the public fax number is 720-467. Both
post offices are open Monday-Friday 0800-
1600, Saturday 0800-1200.
Internet Access
Cybercafe (tel. 705-1 1 1 ; Mon.-Fri. 0800-1730.
Sat. 0800-1600), 501 Main Street beside Ma-
ma's Pizza Inn in downtown Nadi, charges
FS0.20 a minute or F$5 an hour for Internet ac-
cess. Lots of other places in downtown Nadi
also offer Internet access.
Internet Planet (tel. 725-130; daily 0900-
2100), next to the Bounty Restaurant at Mart-
intar, charges F$2 for 15 minutes of access.
Landmark Computers (tel. 721-155), upstairs in
the adjacent two-story building, also has email.
Copyrighted material
150 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
At the airport, several of the backpacker trav-
el agencies upstairs from the arrivals concourse
offer email access, including Ratu Kini in office
No. 33.
Immigration Office
Visa extensions can be arranged at the Immi-
gration office (tel. 722-263; Mon.-Fri.
0830-1300/1400-1500), upstairs from near the
Sun Air check-in counter at Nadi Airport.
Consulates
The Canadian Consulate (P.O. Box 10690,
Nadi Airport; teL/fax 721-936) has a business of-
fice next to Hertz Rent-a-Car in the arrivals con-
course at Nadi Airport. For the Italian Hon-
orary Consul call Mediterranean Villas (tel.
664-01 1 ).
Laundromat
Self-Service Laundrette (Mon.-Sat. 0900-1700,
Sun. 0900-1300). in a two-story building on
Queens Road just north of Bounty Restaurant,
charges F$5 to wash and dry (soap F$0.50).
Toilets
Public toilets are at the corner of Nadi Market
closest to the post office, at the bus station, and
in the Nadi Civic Center.
HEALTH
The outpatient department at Nadi District Hos-
pital (tel. 701-128), inland from Nadi Bus Station,
is open Monday-Thursday 0800-1630, Friday
0800-1600, Saturday 0800-1200.
You'll save time by visiting Dr. Ram Raju (tel.
701-375; Mon.-Fri. 0830-1630, Sat. and Sun.
0900-1230), Lodhia and Clay Streets, a family
doctor specializing in travel health.
Dr. Adbul Gani (tel. 703-776; Mon.-Fri.
0800-1700, Sat. 0800-1300) has his dental
surgery upstairs in the mall at the Nadi Civic
Center near the post office.
Dr. Andrew Narayan (tel. 722-288) runs the
Nnmalta MpHirral ftontAr nn Oi ippnc; Rnart ahni it
two km from Nadi Airport on the way into town.
After hours press the bell for service.
Budget Pharmacy (tel. 700-064) is next to
the Bank of Hawaii on Main St. in town.
TRANSPORTATION
See Getting Around by Air in the main Introduc-
tion for information on regular Air Fiji and Sun Air
nignis to Maioioiaiiai ana Mana isianas ana otner
parts of Fiji.
Turtle Airways (Private Mail Bag NAP 0355,
Nadi Airport; tel. 721-888, fax 720-095), next to
the golf course at Wailoaloa Beach, runs a sea-
plane shuttle to the Mamanuca resorts at F$109
one-way, F$218 round-trip (baggage limited to
one 1 5-kg suitcase plus one carry-on). Ask about
special backpacker fares to the Yasawa Islands.
South Sea Cruises (P.O. Box 718, Nadi; tel.
750-500, fax 750-501 ), owned by Fullers of New
Zealand, operates a high-speed catamaran shut-
tle to the offshore island resorts on the 27-meter
Tiger IV. The boat leaves from Nadi's Port Dena-
rau daily at 0900, 1215, and 1515 for Treasure
(F$40 each way), Malolo (F$50), Castaway
(F$50), and Mana (F$50). Connections to Mata-
manoa or Tokoriki via Mana are available on
the 0900 and 1515 services (F$85). Interisland
hops between the resorts themselves are F$35
each. Children under 16 are half price on all
trips (under five free). Be prepared to wade on
and off the boat at all islands except Mana. If
all you want is a glimpse of the lovely Mamanu-
ca Group, a four-island, three-hour, nonstop
round-trip cruise is F$55. South Sea Cruises
also sends the catamaran Dau Veivueti from
Nadi to the Yasawa islands on Monday,
Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday (turn to the
Yasawa Islands chapter for details). Catama-
ran bookings can be made at any travel agency
around Nadi, and bus transfers to the wharf from
the main Nadi hotels are included.
Beachcomber Cruises (tel. 723-828) at Nadi
airport operates the high speed ship LagilagiXo
Savusavu Tuesdays and Saturdays at 0600 (five
hours, FS90). A courtesy bus picks up precooked
passengers at all Nadi hotels, and the Lagilagi
will stop to collect people at Beachcomber Is-
land upon request.
Highway Transport
Nadi's bus station adjoining the market is an ac-
tive place. Pacific Transport (tel. 700-044) has
express buses to Suva via Queens Road daily at
0720. 0750, 0900, 1300, 1640, and 1820 (188
Copyrighted material
NADI 151
km, four hours. F$9.20). The 0900 bus is the
most convenient, as it begins its run at Nadi (the
others all arrive from Lautoka). Five other Pacif-
ic Transport "stage" buses also operate daily to
Suva (five hours). The Sunbeam Transport ex-
press buses to Suva at 1 100 and 1200 make
resort stops along the way.
Local buses to Lautoka (33 km), the airport,
and everywhere in between pick up passengers
at a bus stop on Main Street, opposite Morris
Hedstrom.
You can bargain for fares with the collective
taxis cruising the highway from the airport into
Nadi. They'll usually take what you'd pay on a
bus. but ask first. Collective taxis and minibuses
parked in a comer of Nadi Bus Station take pas-
sengers nonstop from Nadi to Suva in three
hours for F$13pp.
hor intormation on car rentals, turn to tne oet-
ting Around section in the On the Road chapter.
Local Tours
Numerous day cruises and bus tours operating in
the Nadi area are advertised in free tourist
brochures. Reservations can be made through
Rosie The Travel Service or UTC, with several
offices around Nadi. Bus transfers to/from your
hotel are included in the price, though some trips
are arbitrarily canceled when not enough people
sign up.
The "road tours" offered by Rosie The Trav-
el Service (tel. 722-935), at Nadi Airport and
opposite the Nadi Handicraft Market in town,
are cheaper than those of other companies be-
cause lunch isn't included (lunch is included on
all the cruises and river trips). Rosie s day-trips to
Suva (F$56) involve too much time on the bus,
so instead go for the Sigatoka Valley/Tavuni Hill
Fort (F$60 including entry fees) or Emperor Gold
Mine (F$52) full-day tours. If you're looking for a
morning tour around Nadi, sign up for the four-
hour Vuda Lookout/Viseisei Village/Garden of
the Sleeping Giant tour, which costs F$42, in-
cluding admission to the garden (the lookout
and garden are not accessible on public trans-
port). These trips only operate Monday-Satur-
day, but on Sunday Rosie offers a half-day drive
to the Vuda Lookout and Lautoka at F$42 pp.
Also ask about the full-day hiking tours to the
Nausori Highlands (daily except Sunday, F$66),
the easiest way to see this beautiful area.
The United Touring Company (P.O. Box
91 72, Nadi Airport; tel. 722-81 1 , fax 720-389), or
UTC, offers the same kind of day tours as Rosie
at higher prices with lunch included. Their half-
day Orchid Tour to Viseisei and the Garden of
the Sleeping Giant is F$45. UTC can also book
budget-priced beach resorts on Viti Levu, such
as Saweni and Tubakula, with air-conditioned
bus transfers.
Victory Tours (tel. 700-243), also known as
the "Tourist Information Center," offers "Sleeping
Giant Safari Treks" with stays in different vil-
lages at F$21 0/285 for two/three nights, plus
tax. Hiking trips offered by Adventure Fiji, a di-
vision of Rosie The Travel Service, are more
expensive than these, but the quality is more
consistent (see Hiking Tours in the main Intro-
duction). A guy named Peni, who often hangs out
at the Nadi Handicraft Market near the post of-
fice, takes backpackers on three-night "waterfall
tours" to Bukuya, a mountain village in the Nau-
sori Highlands. Peni's "genuine Fijian lifestyle"
tours are about FS200 pp including meals and
bure accommodations, but we've heard that
they're rather disorganized with promised activ-
ities slow to materialize.
Should you not wish to join an organized bus
tour from Nadi, you can easily organize your
own self-guided day tour by taking a local bus
(not an express) to the Sigatoka Sand Dunes
National Park visitor center on Queens Road.
After a hike over the dunes, catch another bus on
to Sigatoka town for lunch at Le Cafe or the
Sigatoka Club, some shopping and sightsee-
ing, and perhaps a taxi visit to the Tavuni Hill
Fort. Plenty of buses cover the 61 km from Siga-
toka back to Nadi until late. All this will cost you
far less than the cheapest half -day tour and you'll
be able to mix freely with the locals.
Day Cruises
Food and accommodations at the Mamanuca
island resorts are expensive, and a cheaper way
to enjoy the islands — for a day at least — is by
booking a day cruise to Castaway (F$99), Malolo
(F$79), or Mana (F$95) on the fast catamaran
Tiger IV, operated by South Sea Cruises (tel.
750-500). The price includes transfers from most
Nadi hotels, the boat trip, a buffet lunch on the is-
land of your choice, nonmotorized sporting ac-
tivities, and a day at the beach (children under 16
Copyrighted material
152 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
are half price). South Sea Cruises also has day-
trips to the outer Mamanuca islands on the two-
masted schooner Seaspray (F$165 including
lunch and drinks). Bookings can be made
through Rosie The Travel Service or any other
Nadi travel agent.
The Oceanic Schooner Co. (P.O. Box 9625.
Nadi Airport; tel. 664-611, fax 664-688) does
upscale cruises on the 30-meter schooner
Whale's Tale, built at Suva's Whippy Shipyard in
1985. You get a champagne breakfast and
gourmet lunch served aboard ship, an open bar,
and sunset cocktails in the company of a limited
number of fellow passengers for F$160 pp.
They're in office No. 26 upstairs from arrivals at
Nadi Airport.
Captain Cook Cruises (tel. 701-823) runs
day cruises to Tivua Island on the sailing vessel
Ra Marama for F$79 including a picnic lunch
and drinks. Two bungalows on Tivua host those
who'd like to stay overnight at F$260 pp all-in-
clusive. Three-hour starlight dinner cruises on
the ship City of Nadi are F$85.
Guests staying at one of the Sheratons can
take the Bounty Island Day Cruise (tel. 650-
200) to tiny Bounty Island on the MV TJ Blue
(F$69 for a full day). Other companies offer day
cruises to imaginatively named specks of sand
such as Daydream Island (tel. 702-774), Mala-
mala Island (tel. 702-443 or 664-61 1 ), and South
Sea Island (tel. 750-500) costing F$69-89, al-
ways including lunch and Nadi hotel pickups,
and usually drinks and nonmotorized sporting
activities as well. Children under 16 are usually
half price. These trips are fine if all you want is a
day at the beach, otherwise you'll find them a
colossal bore. Any hotel tour desk can book
them. Ask about reduced "early bird" prices, if
you're willing to arrive and leave early.
Youthful travelers will enjoy a day cruise to
Beachcomber Island (tel. 723-828). Fiji's un-
official Club Med for the under 35 set. Operating
daily, the FS69 pp fare includes bus transfers
from Nadi hotels, the return boat ride via Lauto-
ka, and a buffet lunch. Families should consider
Beachcomber because children under 16 are
half price and infants under two are free.
Thirty-minute jet boat rides around the mouth
of the Nadi River are offered by Shotover Jet
(P.O. Box 1932, Nadi; tel. 750-400, fax 750-666)
about every half hour on Wednesday and Sat-
urday from Port Denarau (adults F$69, children
under 15 years F$25). It's fairly certain the birds
and fish of this mangrove area are less thrilled by
these gas-guzzling, high-impact crafts than the
tourists seated therein.
A better choice may be the exciting white-water
rafting on the Upper Ba River offered by Discov-
er Fiji Tours (tel. 450-180). It's F$145 pp includ-
ing transportation from Nadi, lunch, and a visit to
Navala village. Turn to the Nausori Highlands
section for information on the Upper Ba.
Flightseeing
Turtle Airways (tel. 721-888) offers scenic flights
in their Cessna floatplanes at F$77 pp for 10
minutes, FS160 for 30 minutes (minimum of two
persons). Coral Air (tel. 724-490) has an am-
phibious seaplane used mostly for flightseeing
around Nadi and the Coral Coast, but also avail-
able for a landing on Monasavu Lake in central
Viti Levu or trips to the Sawa-i-Lau Caves and
the Blue Lagoon. Pacific Island Seaplanes (tel.
725-644, fax 725-641) does about the same
using Beaver and Otter aircraft. Island Hop-
pers (tel. 720-410) proposes helicopter tours
around Nadi and the Mamanucas.
SOUTH OF NADI
Sonaisali Island Resort
Opened in 1992, this luxury resort (Jan and
Peter McGrath, P.O. Box 2544, Nadi; tel. 706-
011, fax 706-092), down Nacobi Road from
Queens Road, is on Naisali, a long, low island in
Momi Bay. just 300 meters off the coast of Viti
Levu. The core of the resort was rebuilt in early
2000 after a devastating kitchen fire. The 32 a/c
rooms with fridge in two main two-story build-
ings are FS320 single or double, and there are 49
thatched bure at F$385-510 including break-
fast and tax (no cooking facilities). Guests are ex-
pected to dress up for dinner in the restaurant.
The resort features a full-service marina, a large
freeform swimming pool, tennis courts, a chil-
dren's program, and free nonmotorized water
sports, but the snorkeling off their beach is poor.
The resort's scuba operator Aaron McGrath
takes guests out to unique locations such as
Kingfisher Reef at F$105/150 one/two tanks in-
cluding equipment. PADI open-water certification
Copyrighted material
NADI 153
is F$675 for one or F$575 pp for two. Rosie The
Travel Service has a desk at Sonaisali. A taxi
from the airport might cost F$25 and a shuttle
boat provides free access to the island 24 hours
a day.
Rendez-Vous Beach Resort
In early 2001 Ben Seduadua of First Divers es-
tablished a backpacker camp called Rendez-
vous Beach Resort (P.O. Box 5857, Lautoka;
tel. 706-447, 706-448, or 933-065) on Uciwai
Beach north of Nabila village, right next to the
landing for Tavarua and Namotu islands. Ac-
commodations include four rooms (FS50/80 sin-
gle/double), a 20-bed dorm (F$35 pp). and
camping space (F$25 pp), with three meals in-
cluded in the prices. Scuba diving is F$70/120 for
one/two tanks, plus F$10 per dive for gear. Ben's
three-day open-water certification course is
F$400. (First Divers previously operated on
Mana Island, and some readers reported that it
was rather disorganized. Hopefully this has
changed with the move to the mainland.) Surfing
charters to the reefs off Namotu and Tavarua
islands are F$70 an hour for up to six people.
Other activities include fishing and horseback
riding.
Momi Bay
On a hilltop overlooking Momi Bay, 28 km from
Nadi, are two British six-inch guns, one named
Queen Victoria (1900), the other Edward VIII
(1901). Both were recycled from the Boer War
and set up here by the New Zealand army's 30th
Battalion in 1941 to defend the southern ap-
proach to Nadi Bay. The only shots fired in anger
during the war were across the bow of a Royal
New Zealand Navy ship that forgot to make the
correct signals as it entered the passage. It quick-
ly turned around, made the proper signals, and
reentered quietly. To reach the battery, take a
bus along the old highway to Momi, then walk
three km west. The Nabilla village bus runs di-
rectly there from Nadi four times a day. This his-
toric site is managed by the National Trust for
Fiji and open daily 0800-1700 (admission F$2).
Seashell Cove
Seasheli Cove Resort (Virginia Smith, P.O. Box
9530, Nadi Airport; tel. 706-100, fax 706-094),
on Momi Bay, 37 km southwest of Nadi, is pop-
ular with the surfing/diving crowd. They have
eight duplex bure with fans, fridge, and cooking
facilities at FS100 for up to three, and 16 clean
rooms with lumpy beds and shared bath in the
lodges at FS55 single or double, F$60 triple. Four
larger units are available for families at F$1 50
for up to six, and baby-sitters are provided. The
three honeymoon suites are also F$150. The
big 25-bed dormitory above the bar is divided
into five-bed compartments for F$50 per bed in-
cluding three meals. Otherwise, pitch your own
tent beside the volleyball court for F$1 0 per tent.
Cooking facilities are not provided for campers
or lodge guests, although a good-value meal
plan is offered at F$35 pp and there's a small
grocery store just outside the resort. A meke
and Fijian feast (F$20) occurs on Friday.
Seashell's coffee shop is open until midnight,
with a pool table and table tennis. Some surfers
stay up all night drinking kava with the friendly
staff, a great opportunity to get to know them.
Baggage storage is available free of charge.
The beach here isn't exciting and at low tide
it's a 10-minute trudge across the mudflats to
the water. Amenities and activities include a
swimming pool, day-trips to Natadola Beach
(F$35 including lunch), tennis, and volleyball.
There's a horse used to walk kids under 10
around the resort but skip the kayaks as they
leak and become unstable after 20 minutes. A
two-island, three-resort day cruise from here
costs F$50.
Daily at 0700 the Seashell boat shuttles
surfers out to the reliable left at Namotu Island
breakers or long hollow right at Wilkes Passage
(FS30 pp). The boat also goes to Swimming
Pools, Desperations, and Mini Cloudbreak, stay-
ing with the surfers while they surf. The famous
Cloudbreak lefthander at Navula Reef between
Wilkes and Seashell is visited only on Saturday
(FS40 pp). Seashell Cove is one of a limited
number of resorts permitted to surf Cloudbreak
through an exclusive arrangement with the tra-
ditional Fijian owners of the surf. Even then, ex-
pect crowds of 25 guys in the water — all other
spots are less crowded. There's also an offshore
break right at the Momi Bay Lighthouse. This
type of reef break surfing can be dangerous for
the inexperienced.
The well-organized scuba diving operation,
Scuba Bula, run by Steve and Nicky Henderson,
Copyrighted material
154 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
has five-star PADI status and can handle to up to
24 divers at a time from beginners to advanced.
The cost is reasonable at F$60/1 05 for two tanks
plus F$1 5 for gear and F$420 for a PADI certifi-
cation course. Seashell divers experience lots of
fish/shark action at Navula Lighthouse, and
there's great drift diving at Canyons (the guides
really know their spots). When there's space,
snorkelers are welcome to go along at F$20 pp.
Airport transfers are F$15 pp each way. Do-
minion Transport (tel. 701-505) has buses di-
rect to Seashell from Nadi Bus Station at 1 01 5,
1430, and 1730 (F$1.55), and there are good
onward connections from the resort by public
bus to Sigatoka weekdays. A taxi from Nadi Air-
port will cost F$40.
Copyrighted material
THE MAMANUCA GROUP 155
THE MAMANUCA GROUP
The Mamanuca Group is a paradise of eye-pop-
ping reefs and sand-fringed isles shared by tra-
ditional Fijian villages and jet-age resorts. The
white coral beaches and super snorkeling
grounds attract visitors aplenty; boats and planes
arrive constantly, bringing folks in from nearby
Nadi or Lautoka. These islands are in the lee of
big Viti Levu, which means you'll get about as
much sun here as anywhere in Fiji. Some of the
South Pacific's finest scuba diving, surfing, game
fishing, and yachting await you, and many nau-
tical activities are included in the basic rates.
The Mamanucas are fine for a little time in
the sun, though much of it is a tourist scene ir-
relevant to Fiji life. The only resort islands also in-
habited by Fijian villagers are Mana and Malolo,
and those folks have recently established low-
budget backpacker accommodations to make
a little money on the side. If the beach and be-
yond are your main focus, you won't mind stay-
ing on a tiny coral speck like Beachcomber,
Matamanoa, Namotu, Navini, Tavarua, and Trea-
sure, but if hiking and land-based exploring are
on your agenda you'll do better on the larger
Yasawa Islands.
Dive Sites
Some of the most exhilarating diving is on the
Malolo Barrier Reef and the passages around
tiny Namotu or "Magic Island" where nutrients
1
Tokoriki
Uland «(TOKORIKI
u RESORT
°Monuriki /Vftvua Island
■MM
THE MAMANUCA
GROUP
MATAMANOA # M .„, ,„,„.,,
RESORT
Uland
MANA ISLAND-,
RESORT
PY^M"" Uland
Beachcomber
Uland *
not* iv
Trraturr
Uland
.A
' Bt>unl> Uland ^
Mm iu Uland
„Na\ini UUnJ
•9
NAVINI ISLAND
RESORT
CASTAWAY '. Oalilt> Uland
ISLAND RESORT^ ..^^^Malolc. Uland
'"4
Wadi K i
Mand
LO ISLAND RESORT
Daydream
Uland
LAKO MAI RESORT
• ........ MUSKET COVE RESORT
A MalMobilai VZ J
J <£■ 525*
PLANTATION
*" ISLAND RESORT
| mi
=1
, j>*' ) Namotu Uland
O 0 * JTa*arua
S'* Uland
Nut ulj
R «1 .Mom i
Nut win Pattage Bay
I km
156 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
are swept in by strong currents. Both pelagic
and reef fish abound in the canyons, caves, and
coral heads around Namotu, but in some places
the action has been distorted by scuba operators
who regularly feed the fish. The outer slopes of
Namotu, where the reef plunges 1 ,000 meters
into the Pacific abyss, feature turtles, reef sharks,
and vast schools of barracuda, with visibility up to
50 meters. Dolphins also frequent this area.
Bigger fish, manta rays, and ocean-going
sharks are often seen at The Big W on the outer
edge of the Malolo Barrier Reef. Susie, the
friendly bronze whale shark, happens by from
time to time. Vertical walls drop 70 meters at
this spectacular site.
In another passage in the outer barrier reef are
the pinnacles of Gotham City, so called for the
batfish seen here, along with brilliantly colored
soft corals and vast schools of tropical fish.
One of the world's most famous reef shark
encounter venues is Supermarket, a 30-meter
wall just west of Mana Island. Grays, white tips,
and black tips are always present, and you might
even see a tiger shark. Divemasters hand-feed
sharks over two meters long on this exciting dive.
Shallow Kaka Reef north of Mana Island is
known as The Circus for the myriad clown fish
and colorful corals. Eagle rays sometimes fre-
quent the South Mana Reef straight out from
the island's wharf. Other well-known Mamanuca
dive sites include Japanese Gardens, Lobster
Caves, the Pinnacles (near Malolo), Sunflower
Reef, The Barrel Head, The Fingers, Jockie's
Point, a B-26 bomber dating from World War II,
and the wreck of the Salamanda, a decommis-
sioned Blue Lagoon cruise ship.
MALOLO LAI LAI ISLAND
Malololailai, or "Little Malolo," 22 km west of
Nadi, is a 216-hectare island eight km around (a
nice walk). Birders will appreciate the hon-
eyeaters, bulbuls, fantails, and kingfishers they
see and hear along the way. In 1880 an Ameri-
can sailor named Louis Armstrong bought Mal-
ololailai from the Fijians for one musket; in 1964
Dick Smith purchased it for many muskets. You
can still be alone at the beaches on the far side
of the island, but with two growing resorts, a ma-
rina, a nine-hole golf course, and projects for
lots more time-share condominiums in the
pipeline it's becoming overdeveloped. An airstrip
across the island's waist separates its two re-
sorts; inland are rounded, grassy hills.
Plantation Island
Plantation Island Resort (P.O. Box 9176, Nadi
Airport; tel. 669-333, fax 720-620), on the south-
west side of Malololailai, is one of the largest of
the resorts off Nadi. It belongs to the Raffles
Group, which has other large hotels in Nadi and
Suva. The 1 20 rooms are divided between 40 a/c
hotel rooms in a two-story building and 80 indi-
vidual bure. Prices begin at FS190 single or dou-
ble plus tax. The rooms have fridges but no
cooking facilities, so add F$55 pp for all meals.
Plantation Island Resort tries hard to cater to
families, with two children under 16 accommo-
dated free when sharing with their parents and a
children's meal plan at F$32. Creche and baby-
sitting services are available, and there's a new
20-meter waterslide and two pools. Free activities
here include snorkeling gear, canoes, and sailing,
and daily snorkeling and fishing trips are offered
at no charge. Plantation's nine-hole golf course
is toward the airport. This is a popular day-trip
destination from Nadi, fine if you like the excite-
ment of a lively resort.
Musket Cove
Also on Malololailai Island is Musket Cove Re-
sort (Dick and Carol Smith, Private Mail Bag
NAP 0352, Nadi Airport; tel. 662-215, fax 662-
633, VHF 68), which opened in 1977. This is
one of the few Mamanuca resorts that provides
cooking facilities for its guests, but these vary
according to the class of accommodations. Full
facilities are provided in the six two-bedroom
villas, costing F$480 single or double, plus F$20
per extra adult to a maximum of six. The eight
seaview and four garden bure also have kitch-
enettes at F$340 single or double. However,
only breakfast bars are provided in the 1 8 beach-
front and lagoon bure (from F$396 single or dou-
ble). Also with just a breakfast bar is The Lodge,
a pair of five-bed dormitory bure costing F$40 pp.
The six a/c rooms (F$220 single or double) up-
stairs in the resort's administration building have
no cooking facilities at all.
Musket Cove's well-stocked grocery store
sells fresh fruit and vegetables, and a coin laun-
Copy righted material
THEMAMANUCA GROUP 157
dry is near this store. A F$55 pp three meal plan
is available at Dick's Place Restaurant and Bar
by the pool. Otherwise lunch/dinner entrees av-
erage RS13/22. Entertainment is provided every
night except Sunday. The bar on Ratu Nemani
Island, a tiny coral islet connected to the marina
by a floating bridge, is popular among yachties
off the many boats anchored here (all drinks
FS2.50).
Activities such as snorkeling, windsurfing, ca-
noeing, line fishing, and taking village boat trips
are free for Musket Cove guests. Paid activities
include the Hobie cats (F$12.50 an hour), kayaks
(F$25 an hour), and water-skiing (from F$10).
The launch Anthony Star is available for deep-
sea game-fishing charters at F$70 pp for four
hours with a four-person minimum. The 10-meter
cruiser Dolphin Star can be chartered for longer
fishing trips at F$120 an hour (maximum four
people). The 17-meter ketch Dulcmea does
cruises to Castaway Island (F$42 pp without
lunch), snorkeling and dolphin watching trips
(F$39 pp), and sunset viewing (F$27 pp).
Subsurface Fiji runs the scuba diving con-
cession at the Musket Cove marina, and many
famous dive sites are less than 15 minutes away.
It's F$84/164 for one/two tanks including equip-
ment, or pay F$550 for the four-day PADI certi-
fication course (minimum of two persons). Chil-
dren 1 2 years and up are accepted at their scuba
school. Musket Cove Yacht Charters has a small
fleet of charter yachts stationed at Musket Cove.
Rates for a five-day crewed cruise to the Ya-
sawas on the ketch Hobo begin at FS700/950 a
day for two/four adults, provisions included. Day
charters cost less. Learn to sail lessons are FS80
an hour.
Malololailai is a favorite stopover for cruising
yachts because there is water and clean show-
ers at the marina (mooring is FS7/39/144 a
day/week/month). Fuel and groceries are also
available. The marked anchorage is protected
and 15 meters deep, with good holding. Most
of the boats in the Auckland to Fiji yacht race
in June end up here just in time for the Presi-
dent's Cup, Fiji's prestige yachting Event. In mid-
September there's a yachting regatta week at
Musket Cove, culminating in a 965-km yacht
race from Fiji to Port Vila timed for the boats'
annual departure east, prior to the onset of the
hurricane season. If you're on a boat in Fiji at
this time, Musket Cove is the place to be, and if
you're trying to hitch a ride as crew you can't
go wrong. There are even stories of people being
paid to serve as crew for the race!
Getting There
Malololailai's grass-and-gravel airstrip is the
busiest in the Mamanuca Group and serves as a
distribution point for the other resorts. You can fly
to Malololailai from Nadi Airport. Sun Air and Air
Fiji have flights from Nadi between four and eight
times a day between 0730-1 730. The one-way
fare is F$37 for locals or F$51 for tourists. Ask
about same day round-trip fares on both air-
lines. Otherwise take the catamaran Malolo Cat
from Nadi's Port Denarau at 1030, 1400, or 1700
(50 minutes, F$37.50 one-way). A F$49 day
round-trip fare is also offered. From Malololailai,
the Cat departs at 0900, 1230, and 1530. Call
702-774 or 662-21 5 for a free pickup at any Nadi
area hotel.
MALOLO ISLAND
At low tide you can wade from Malololailai to
nearby Malolo Island, largest of the Mamanuca
Group. Yaro, one of two Fijian villages on Malo-
lo, is known to tourists as the "shell village" for
what the locals offer for sale (visitors to Yaro
can expect to be charged a stiff admission fee,
which includes a kava session with the chief).
A timeshare operation called the Lako Mai
Resort (Private Mail Bag, Nadi Airport; tel. 706-
101, fax 706-017) is near Yaro village, about
three km from the Malolo Island Resort. The 12
bure and four Lockwood houses are owner-oc-
cupied and not open to casual tourists. Only re-
sort residents may use the pool.
A bit east toward Solevu village is the Malolo
Camp, also called "Suliasi Doko's Place," with a
couple of bure to accommodate backpackers at
around F$90 for a double. A 12-bed dorm (F$35
pp) and camping (F$25) are also available, with
all meals and activities included in the price.
Bookings should be made through Victory Tours
(the 'T ourist Information Center") in central Nadi.
A stay here can be combined with a sojourn at
the backpacker places on Mana Island. The fast
cat TTger/Vcharges FS50 from Nadi to the Lako
Mai Resort, then it's F$5 pp by speedboat di-
Copyrighted material
158 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
rectly to the Camp. Malolo-Mana on Tiger IV \s
FS35. Low-budget travelers staying at the Malolo
Camp are not welcome at the Malolo Island Re-
sort.
Malolo Island Resort
The Malolo Island Resort (P.O. Box 10044,
Nadi Airport; tel. 669-178, fax 669-197), former-
ly Naitasi Resort, is at Malolo's western tip. The
resort is owned by the Whitton family of Nadi,
which also runs Rosie The Travel Service. In
1 999 the Whittons spent F$3.5 million renovating
Maiolo isiana nesort, wnicn oners eigni ocean-
view bure at FS330 double, 22 beachfront bure at
FS410, 20 deluxe beachfront bure at F$465,
and one family bure at F$860 for up to eight per-
sons. Two children under 12 can stay with their
parents free. The meal plan costs F$55 pp (half
price for children). The Malolo Island Resort has
a two-tier freshwater swimming pool, and most
non motorized water sports are free; scuba diving
with Subsurface Fiji costs extra.
The Tiger IV catamaran arrives three times
a day from Nadi's Port Denarau at F$50 each
way. South Sea Cruises offers a day trip to Mal-
olo Island Resort at F$79 including lunch and
watersports (children half price). Otherwise fly
Sun Air or Air Fiji to Malololailai (F$37), then
catch a connecting speedboat straight to the re-
sort at F$20 pp each way (four-person mini-
mum). The Turtle Airways seaplane from Nadi is
F$1 09 one-way.
THE SURFING CAMPS
Tavarua Island
Tavarua Island Resort (Jon Roseman, P.O.
Box 1419. Nadi; tel. 706-513, fax 706-395), just
south of Malololailai, caters to older, more af-
fluent surfers than the places on Viti Levu, Yanu-
ca, and Kadavu. Guests are accommodated in
12 newty renovated beach bure with hot showers
and private bath, plus two larger family bure. A
one week package from Los Angeles will cost
US$2,495 including airfare.
The facilities have been upgraded, with a la-
goon-style swimming pool and a large hot tub.
However, it's the exclusivity you pay for here, as
Tavarua has negotiated sole access to some
of Fiji's finest waves. There are both lefts and
rights in Malolo Passage at Tavarua, although
the emphasis is usually on the lefts. When the
swell is high enough you'll have some of the
best surfing anywhere in the world. On the off
days you can get in some deep-sea fishing,
windsurfing, snorkeling, or scuba diving (extra
charge). Surfing guests are expected to have
had at least three years experience in a vari-
ety of conditions.
Bookings must be made six months in ad-
vance through Tavarua Island Tours in Santa
Barbara, California. See Getting There in the
main introduction for details. Local bookings
from within Fiji are not accepted, and they're
usually sold out anyway as Tavarua has be-
come the place to go for top U.S. surfers. Keep
in mind that you can sometimes surf the same
waves as the Tavarua crowd while paying a lot
less at Seashell Cove Resort or Rendez-Vous
Beach Resort on the mainland. The difference is
that you won't have the constant immediate ac-
cess you have here.
Namotu Island
Just across Malolo Passage from Tavarua Is-
land on tiny Namotu Island is Namotu Island
Resort (Scott and Amanda O'Connor, P.O. Box
531, Nadi; tel. 706-439, fax 706-039), a "Blue
Water Sports Camp" for surfers. It's similar to
Tavarua but slightly more accessible. They have
four beach bure with three beds, one duplex
bungalow with two triple rooms, and two "VIP"
dorm bungalows with six single beds. Children
under 12 are not generally accepted.
All guests arrive on seven-night package tours
from Los Angeles, costing US$2,374 pp in the
dorm or US$4, 138/5, 196 single/double in a bure.
All reservations must go through Waterways
Travel in Van Nuys, California. See Getting
There in the On the Road chapter. Local book-
ings from within Fiji are only possible in January
and February, if space happens to be available.
However, Namotu is usually sold out.
You must bring your own surfboards, sail-
boards, and kite sails as none are available here
(currents in the channel often carry lost boards
far out to sea) Snorkelinq qear. kavaks. outriqqer
canoes, and wake boards are loaned free of
charge. Fishing is also free, although lost lures
must be paid for. Scuba diving is arranged
through a neighboring resort at F$80 per dive.
Copyrighted material
THE MAMANUCA GROUP 159
As at Tavarua, Namotu's market is mostly
upscale American surfers and sailors who fly
down from the United States to ride Fiji's spec-
tacular waves. The famous Namotu Lefts peel off
directly in front of their bar/restaurant area.
Across Wilkes Passage is the more challeng-
ing Wilkes Right. Facing Tavarua off the south-
eastern comer of Namotu is another right called
Swimming Pools.
THE TINY ISLANDS
Wadigi Island
In 1998 a tiny resort called Wadigi Island (Ross
and Jeni Allen, P.O. Box 9274, Nadi Airport; tel.
720-901 ) opened on the isle of the same name
off the west end of Malolo. Each group gets the
entire three-suite resort, costing FS1.575 for a
couple or F$665 pp for up to six persons (chil-
dren under 12 not accepted). Included in the
tariff are all meals, drinks, transfers from Malolo,
and sporting equipment such as kayaks, wind-
surfers, spy boards, fishing rods, and snorkeling
gear. Only deep sea fishing and scuba diving
cost extra.
Castaway Island
Castaway Island Resort (Private Mail Bag
0358, Nadi Airport; tel. 661-233, fax 665-753), on
174-hectare Qalito Island just west of Malolo,
was built by Dick Smith in 1966 as Fiji's first
outer-island resort. It's still one of the most pop-
ular, with higher occupancy rates that any other
resort in Fiji. The 66 tastefully decorated thatched
bure sleep four — F$51 0 and up. No cooking fa-
cilities are provided but the all-meal plan is F$55
pp. The tovoand meke are on Wednesday night,
the beach barbecue on Saturday.
Among the free water sports are sailing, wind-
surfing, paddle boats, tennis, and snorkeling,
but sport fishing and scuba diving are extra. The
diving is with Karen and Craig Flannery, who
charge F$70/140 for one/two tank dives with
shark feeding, plus gear. Their PADI certification
course is F$695 for one or FS550 pp for two or
more, and several other courses are also avail-
able. There's a swimming pool. Many Australian
holidaymakers return to Castaway year after
year; families with small children are welcome. A
free "kids club" operates from 0900-1600 and
1900-2100 daily with lots of fun activities for
those aged three and over, while mom and dad
have some time to themselves.
There's the catamaran Tiger IV three times
a day from Nadi's Port Denarau (F$50 each
way), and Turtle Airways has three seaplane
flights a day from Nadi for F$1 15. South Sea
Cruises offers day trips to Castaway at F$99 in-
cluding lunch and non-motorized water sports
(children half price). Only 20 persons a day are
allowed to book the day cruises, so inquire early.
Navlni Island
Navini Island Resort (P.O. Box 9445, Nadi Air-
port; tel. 662-188, fax 665-566) is a small, pri-
vate resort on a tiny coral isle with only 1 0 beach-
front bure. Rates vary from FS380 double for a
fan-cooled unit to F$570 for the honeymoon bure
with spa and enclosed courtyard. Discounts are
available for stays over a week. The compulsory
two/three meal package is FS68/76 pp a day (no
cooking facilities). Everyone gets to know one
another by eating at a long table (private dining is
also possible). Complimentary morning boat trips
are offered, as are snorkeling gear, windsurf
boards, and kayaks. Car/boat transfers from Nadi
via the Vuda Point Marina are arranged anytime
upon request (F$160 pp round-trip). Only
overnight guests are accepted.
Beachcomber Island
Beachcomber Island (Dan Costello, P.O. Box
364, Lautoka; tel. 661-500, fax 664-496), 18 km
west of Lautoka, is Club Med at a fraction of the
price. Since the 1960s this famous resort has
received many thousands of young travelers,
and it's still a super place to meet the opposite
sex. You'll like the informal atmosphere and late-
night parties; there's a sand-floor bar, dancing,
and floor shows four nights a week. The island is
so small you can stroll around it in 10 minutes,
but there's a white sandy beach and buildings
nestled among coconut trees and tropical vege-
tation. This is one of the few places in Fiji where
both sexes might be able to sunbathe topless. A
beautiful coral reef extends far out on all sides
and scuba diving is available with Subsurface
Fiji (F$80/155 for one/two tanks, PADI open
water certification F$555). A full range of other
sporting activities is available at an additional
charge (parasailing F$60, windsurfing F$22 an
Copyrighted material
160 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
hour, water-skiing F$32, jet skis F$60 for 15
minutes).
Accommodations include all meals served
buffet style. Most people opt for the big, open
mixed dormitory where the 42 double-decker
bunks (84 beds) cost F$75 each a night. Se-
cure lockers are provided. The 14 lodge rooms
with shared bath at F$1 79/238 single/double
(fridge and fan provided) are a good compro-
mise for the budget-conscious traveler. You
could also get one of 22 thatched beachfront
bure with ceiling fan, fridge, and private facili-
ties for FS2707320/395 single/douWeAriple. Small
families should consider a bure as children aged
6-15 pay half price. The resorts' former water
problems have been solved by laying pipes from
the mainland and installing solar water heating.
Of course, there's also the F$69 round-trip
boat ride from Lautoka to consider, but that in-
cludes lunch on arrival day. You can make a
day trip to Beachcomber for the same price if
you only want a few hours in the sun. There's a
free shuttle bus from all Lautoka/Nadi hotels to
the wharf; the connecting three-master schooner
Tui Tai leaves daily at 1000. Faster access is
possible on the twin-hulled Drodrolagi from Port
Denarau at 0900. Tuesday and Saturday morn-
ings you can arrange to be picked up by the
high-speed ship Lagilagi on its way to Savusavu
(five hours, F$90). Beachcomber has been doing
it right for decades, and the biggest drawback is
its very popularity, which makes it crowded and
busy. Reserve well ahead at their Lautoka or
Nadi Airport offices, or at any travel agency.
Treasure Island
Beachcomber's little neighbor, Treasure Island
Resort (P.O. Box 2210, Lautoka; tel. 661-599,
fax 663-577), caters to couples and families less
interested in an intense singles' social scene.
It's extremely popular among New Zealand and
Australian vacationers and occupancy levels
seldom drop below 80 percent. The resort is half
owned by the Tokatoka Nakelo land-owning
clan, which also supplies most of the workers, al-
though the management is European. At Trea-
sure, instead of helping yourself at a buffet and
eating at a long communal picnic table as you
would at Beachcomber, you'll be fed regular
meals in a restaurant (meal plan FS68 pp daily).
Cooking facilities are not provided. The 67 a/c
units, each with three single beds (F$495 single
or double), are contained in 34 functional du-
plex bungalows packed into the greenery be-
hind the island's white sands. Special dinners
and evening entertainment are scheduled every
other night. Some nautical activities such as
windsurfing, sailing, canoes, and spy board,
which cost extra on Beachcomber, are free on
Treasure Island. Scuba diving is FS99/150 in-
cluding gear for one/two-tank boat dives. Un-
like Beachcomber, Treasure doesn't accept any
day-trippers. Guests arrive on the shuttle boat
Tiger IV, which departs Nadi's Port Denarau
three times a day (F$40 each way, half price
underage 16).
MANA ISLAND
Mana Island, 32 km northwest of Nadi, is well
known for its scuba diving facilities and luxury re-
sort, but in recent years a whole slew of back-
packers' hostels have sprouted in the Fijian vil-
lage on the eastern side of the island. There's
much bad blood between the Japanese investors
who run the resort and the Fijian villagers who
accommodate the backpackers, and a high fence
has been erected down the middle of the island
to separate the two ends of the market. Uni-
formed security guards patrol the perimeter and
shoestring travelers are most unwelcome any-
where in the resort, including the restaurants,
bars, and watersports huts. Even the scuba div-
ing facilities are segregated. In contrast, tourists
from the resort are quite welcome to order drinks
or meals at the backpacker camps.
Although this situation does poison the at-
mosphere on Mana Island slightly, there are lots
of lovely beaches all around the island, most of
them empty because the packaged tourists sel-
dom stray far from their resort. The long white
beach on the northeast side of the island is de-
serted. At the resort, the snorkeling is better off
South Beach at low tide, off North Beach at high
tide, but the nicest beach is Sunset Beach at
the western end of the island. There's a great
view of the Mamanucas and southern Yasawas
from the highest point on Mana, a 15-minute
hike from the backpacker camps, and splendid
snorkeling on the reef. The Mana Main Reef is
famous for its drop-offs with visibility never less
Copyrighted material
THE MAMANUCA GROUP 161
Dream Beach.
Mana Island
than 25 meters, and you'll see turtles, fish of all
descriptions, and the occasional crayfish.
The presence of the resort supports the fre-
quent air and sea connections from Nadi, and the
budget places allow you to enjoy Mana's stun-
ning beauty at a fraction of the price tourists at
the Japanese hotels are paying. But to be frank,
some of the backpacker camps on Mana are
rather squalid, and the places on or around Tave-
wa Island in the Yasawas offer better accom-
modations for only a bit more money.
The Backpacker Camps
Right up against the security fence near an en-
closed sentry box is Mereani's Backpackers
Inn (P.O. Box 10486, Nadi Airport; tel. 663-099
or 703-466, fax 702-763), a large house with
dormitories of four, six, and eight bunks at F$35
pp, and four double rooms at F$77. When the
five-bed dorm in the main hostel fills up, they
open a big 10-bed dorm next to the staff quarters.
If you have your own tent, you can camp at F$25
pp. All rates include three generous meals
served to your table (breakfast is a buffet). You
can get drinks at their bar all day. Activities in-
clude deep-sea fishing trips (F$15 pp an hour)
and a four-island boat excursions (F$20 pp).
Those staying two weeks get an extra night free
and several complimentary trips. To book call
702-763 in Nadi.
Ratu Kini's Resort or "Mana Backpackers"
(P.O. Box 2845, Nadi; tel. 669-143, fax 720-552)
has their dining area alongside the resort fence
right next to Mereani's Inn, but the large accom-
modations building is 100 meters back in the vil-
lage. The concrete main house has one big 20-
bunk dorm, another four-bunk dorm in the corri-
dor, and two thatched dormitory bure with seven
and 14 bunks in the backyard, all at F$35 pp.
The main house also contains two double rooms
with shared bath at F$75 double, and two better
rooms with private bath and outside entrance at
F$85 or FS110 double. One other large thatched
bure in the backyard is F$1 10 for up to four.
Camping is F$25 pp. Buffet-style meals are in-
cluded in all rates (on Thursdays they prepare a
lovo). Reader reviews of the food vary from
"awful" to "outstanding." A full-day boat trip to
Malololailai Island is F$25 pp with spaghetti sand-
wiches for lunch. A two-hour snorkeling trip is
F$20 pp for the boat (minimum of two). Ratu Kini
works out of office No. 33 (tel. 721-959), upstairs
from arrivals at Nadi Airport. People on their way
to Ratu Kini's often stay at Mana Rose Apart-
ments near Travelers Beach Resort at Wailoaloa
Beach in Nadi. Both Ratu Kini's and Mereani's
have generators that only work at lunchtime and
from 1700 until after midnight, at which time the
fans go off. Expect water shortages, overcrowd-
ing, rather messy conditions, nocturnal animal
sounds, a party atmosphere, and a total lack of
privacy in the mixed dorms of both hostels. Un-
attended gear may disappear from the beach.
Another backpacker hostel called Dream
Beach is on a splendid beach on the north side
of Mana Island, across the hill from Ratu Kini's.
naterial
162 NADI AND THE MAMANUCAS
There are two seven-bunk and one eight-bunk
houses, plus one private room with bath. Dream
Beach is nicely secluded from the village and
resort, but at last report it was closed. Check
the current status by calling Island Travel Tours
(P.O. Box 10725, Nadi Airport; tel. 724-033 or
725-930), in office No. 14 upstairs in the airport
arcade at arrivals.
Ratu Kini Bokoniqiwa is a colorful character.
He's the chief of 20 islands in the Mamanuca
Group, but years ago he leased the western half
of Mana Island to an Australian company, which
sublet their property to the Japanese who now
run Mana Island Resort. The resort's founder,
Errol Fifer, still has a house at Sunset Beach,
in case you bump into him. Mereani's is run by
another branch of Ratu Kini's family and they
compete fiercely. Dream Beach is run by Pastor
Aisake Kabu.
Tourist Resort
Juxtaposed against the backpacker camps is
Mana Island Resort (Private Mail Bag, Lautoka;
tel. 661 -455, fax 661 -562), by far the biggest of
the tourist resorts off Nadi. This opulent estab-
lishment boasts 128 tin-roofed bungalows clus-
tered between the island's grassy rounded hill-
tops, white sandy beaches, and crystal-clear
waters, and 32 hotel rooms in a pair of two-story
blocks facing North Beach. The 85 garden bun-
galows are F$270 single or double, while the
52 deluxe beachfront bungalows are F$400 sin-
gle or double. The 18 executive rooms are
F$550, tax included. Cooking facilities are not
provided, so you'll have to patronize their restau-
rants (entrees F$20 and up). Live entertainment
is presented nightly, and three nights a week
there's a Fijian or Polynesian floor show. The
room rates include nonmotorized water sports,
but water-skiing, para-flying, water scooters,
game fishing, and scuba diving are extra. A sun-
set cruise from Mana Island aboard the schooner
Seasprayis F$55 (drinks extra).
Scuba Diving
Resort guests may patronize Aqua-Trek (tel.
669-309), which offers boat dives at F$80 for one
tank plus F$15 for equipment or FS390 for a six-
dive package. Night dives are F$95. They run a
variety of dive courses, beginning with a four-day
PADI open-water certification course (F$600).
Underwater shark feeding is Aqua-Trek Mana's
speciality, usually every Thursday and Sunday.
Aqua-Trek doesn't accept divers from the
backpacker camps who must dive with Atlantis
Divers (tel. 702-704), which has a dive shop
adjacent to Mereani's Inn. They also take out
snorkelers. Ratu Kini's dive operation is known
as Mana Pacific Divers.
Getting There
The airstrip on Mana receives about a dozen
flights a day from Nadi by Sun Air and Air Fiji
(F$47 each way). The terminal is a seven-minute
walk west of the resort (to get to the backpacker
camps, head for the wharf from which the se-
curity fence is visible).
If you're already staying in Nadi it's just as
easy to arrive on the Tiger /Vcatamaran, which
runs three times a day from Port Denarau (F$50
each way including Nadi hotel pickups). Other-
wise, South Sea Cruises runs a daytrip from
Nadi including lunch at the resort for F$95 (chil-
dren under 16 half price). The ferry ties up to a
wharf at South Beach, in fact, Mana is the only
Mamanuca island with a wharf, so you don't
need to take off your shoes.
Any Nadi travel agency or hotel can book
these transfers but only buy a one-way ticket so
you'll have the freedom to return by another
means. By taking the Tiger IV or a plane to Mana
you won't have to commit yourself to one back-
packer hostel or another and can size up the
situation when you get there. Ratu Kini's own
shuttle boat leaves Wailoaloa Beach at 1100
daily, costing F$35/60 one-way/round-trip in-
cluding bus transfers from Nadi hotels.
THE OUTER ISLANDS
Matamanoa Island
Matamanoa Island Resort (P.O. Box 9729,
Nadi Airport; tel. 660-51 1 or 723-620, fax 661-
069 or 720-282), to the northwest of Mana Is-
land, has 1 3 a/c hotel rooms at F$230 single
or double, and 20 fan-cooled bure at F$380,
plus tax. Stay six nights and the seventh night is
free. Children under 12 are not accepted. A full
American breakfast is included in the price but
the lunch and dinner plan is F$58 pp extra. No
cooking facilities are provided but a fridge is in
Copyrighted material
THE MAMANUCA GROUP 163
CASTAWAY, THE MOVIE
In early 2001 moviegoers worldwide got a taste of
the savage beauty of Fiji's westernmost islands
from Robert Zemeckis' film Castaway. The story
revolves around a Federal Express employee
( i om nanKS) wno oecomes stranaeo on an un-
inhabited tropical isle after his plane goes down in
the Pacific. The plane-wrecked air couner even-
tually spends four years on the island, and to
achieve the desperate look needed to play his
role, Hanks had to lose 40 pounds and grow a
ragged beard. Thus Casta way was filmed in two
stages eight months apart, with the second portion
shot on location in the western Mamanucas in
earfy 2000. For this event around a hundred mem-
bers of the film crew descended on tiny Monunki
Island between Matamanoa and Tokoriki
At the time, concerns were raised that there
might be a repeat of the damaging controversy
surrounding the filming of The Beach in Thailand,
when Leonardo DiCaprio and 20th Century Fox
were accused of inflicting serious environmental
damage on Maya Beach in Krabi's Phi Phi Islands
National Park. The avoid this, Zemeckis was care-
ful to have veteran naturalist and author Dick
Watling do an environmental impact assessment
before the filming, and the film crew followed
Watling's recommendations carefully. Later, when
environmentalists from the World Wide Fund for
Nature in Suva investigated the affair, they gave
Zemeckis and his team high marks.
Ironically, 50-odd feral goats have long rav-
aged the vegetation on Monunki, threatening the
island's rare crested iguanas with extinction. The
filmmakers offered to pay the Fijian landowners a
bounty of F$1 00 per goat to remove the beasts,
but their offer was refused. To Monuriki's cus-
tomary owners on nearby Yanuya Island, a
steady supply of goat meat is worth more than
money or iguanas. Although no Fijians appear
in Castaway, it conveys well the spellbinding
scenery of this exotic region.
every room. Complimentary afternoon tea is
served at the bar, followed by snacks during
happy hour 1730-1830. The tiny island's fine
white beach and blue lagoon are complemented
by a swimming pool and lighted tennis court.
Scuba diving is with Aqua-Trek.
Boat transfers from Nadi on the Tiger IV are at
0900 and 1215 daily, costing F$75 pp each way
with a change of boats at Mana Island. If you
fly to Mana, it's F$35 each way between Mana
and Matamanoa. The schooner Seaspray op-
erates all inclusive day cruises from Matamanoa
for F$120. This is the closest resort to Monuriki
Island, the uninhabited island seen in the Tom
Hanks film Castaway.
Tokoriki Island
Tokoriki Island Resort (P.O. Box 10547, Nadi
Airport; tel. 661-999, fax 665-295) is the farthest
Mamanuca resort from Nadi. There are 23 spa-
cious fan-cooled bure from FS475/525 dou-
ble/triple (no cooking facilities). The resort faces
west on a kilometer-long beach and water sports
such as reef fishing, windsurfing, and Hobie cats
are free (water-skiing and sportfishing available
at additional charge). The scuba concession-
aire on Tokoriki, William Wragg of Dive Tropex,
charges FS99/150 for one/two tanks including
gear. At the center of the island is a 94-meter-
high hill offering good views of the Yasawa and
Mamanuca groups. As on Matamanoa, you must
take the fast catamaran Tiger IV \o Mana, then a
launch to Tokoriki (F$75 pp each way). The reg-
ular launch to Matamanoa and Tokoriki leaves
Mana twice daily. If you fly to Mana, you can
catch this launch straight to Tokoriki for F$35.
Turtle Airways charges F$1 10 pp to fly from
Nadi to either Matamanoa or Tokoriki.
Vomo Island
Standing alone midway between Lautoka and
Wayasewa Island (see the Yasawa Islands
map), 91 -hectare Vomo is a high volcanic is-
land with a white beach around its west side.
Since 1993 the coral terrace and slopes behind
this beach have been the site of the luxurious
Vomo Island Resort (P.O. Box 5650, Lautoka;
tel. 667-955 or 668-122, fax 667-997 or 668-
500). The 28 large a/c villas with individual hot
tubs run F$847 pp double occupancy, includ-
ing all meals, plus tax. Once part of the Sheraton
chain, Vomo Island Resort offers swimming and
snorkeling infinitely better than anything at Dena-
rau. Scuba diving is with Tropical Dive. Heli-
copter transfers from Nadi Airport cost F$835
pp round-trip, launch transfers from Nadi's Port
Denarau are F$990 per couple round-trip, or
you can arrive on a Turtle Airways seaplane for
FS500 pp each way.
Copyrighted material
164 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
The southwest side of Viti Levu along the
Queens Road is known as the Coral Coast for its
fringing reef. Sigatoka and Navua are the main
towns in this area with most accommodations
at Korotogo and Korolevu. This shoreline is heav-
ily promoted as one of the top resort areas in
Fiji, probably because of its convenient location
along the busy highway between Nadi and Suva,
but to be frank, the beaches here are second
rate, with good swimming and snorkeling condi-
tions only at high tide. Much of the coral has
been destroyed by hurricanes. To compensate,
most of the hotels have swimming pools and in
some places you can go reef walking at low tide.
Top sights include the Sigatoka sand dunes and
the impressive gorge of the Navua River. The
possibility of rainfall and lushness of the vege-
tation increase as you move east.
Getting Around
An easy way to get between the Coral Coast
resorts and Nadi/Suva is on the air-conditioned
Fiji Express shuttle bus run by the United Tour-
ing Company (tel. 722-821 ). The bus leaves the
Holiday Inn Suva, Berjaya Inn, and other top
hotels in Suva (F$30) at 0730 and calls at the
Centra Resort Pacific Harbor (F$26), The War-
wick Hotel (F$21), Naviti Resort, Hideaway,
Tabua Sands, Outrigger Reef Resort (F$20),
Fijian Hotel (F$17), most Nadi hotels, and the
Sheratons (F$7), arriving at Nadi Airport at 1200
(quoted fares are to the airport). It leaves Nadi
Airport at 1245 and returns along the same route,
reaching Suva at 1715. Bookings can be made
at the UTC office in the airport arrival concourse
or at hotel tour desks.
Also ask about the air-conditioned Queen's
Deluxe Coach, which runs in the opposite di-
rection, leaving Nadi Airport for Suva at 0730,
The Fijian Hotel at 0900, the Warwick and Nav-
iti at 1020, and Pacific Harbor at 1 1 10. The return
trip departs the Holiday Inn Suva around 1600,
arriving at the airport at 2030 (F$16).
Many less expensive non-a/c buses pass on
the highway, but make sure you're waiting some-
where they'll stop. Pacific Transport's "stage" or
"highway" buses between Lautoka/Nadi and
Suva will stop at any of the Coral Coast resorts,
but the express buses call only at Sigatoka, Pa-
cific Harbor, and Navua. If you're on an east-
SOUTHERN VITI LEVU 165
bound express, get a ticket to Sigatoka and look
for a local bus (or taxi) from there. Sunbeam
Transport express buses do stop at many re-
sorts, so ask.
NATADOLA AND THE FIJIAN
Natadola Beach
The long, white sandy beach here is easily the
best on Viti Levu and a popular picnic spot with
day-trippers arriving on the sugar train from The
Fijian Hotel on the Coral Coast. Care should be
taken while swimming in the ocean as the waves
can be unexpectedly strong. The small leftpoint
break at Natadola is good for beginning surfers
but one must always be aware of the currents
and undertow. The left-hand breaks outside the
reef are only for the experienced.
Plans to erect three or four luxury hotels on
Natadola have been stalled by limited water sup-
plies at the site. In 1999 it was announced that a
500-room resort to be managed by the Four
Seasons chain would be erected here after the
Fiji Government agreed to spend millions on in-
frastructure. Unfortunately for the local economy,
the project was scrapped after the May 2000
coup. At the moment very few facilities are avail-
SOUTHERN
VITI LEVU
O C E A N
able here, although the local villagers offer horse-
back riding. It may be possible to rent a bure in
Sanasana village at the south end of the beach.
In the past travelers have camped freelance on
Natadola Beach, but theft is a real problem here.
Don't leave valuables unattended on this beach.
The Natadola Beach Resort (Private Mail
Bag 0381, Nadi Airport; tel. 721-001, fax 721-
000) offers one block of three rooms, another
block of four rooms, and two individual units at
F$350 single or double including continental
breakfast. The luxurious "sand castle" villa is
F$450. Honeymooners are the target clientele
and children under 16 are not accepted. Each of
the 1 0 fan-cooled units has a fridge, but no cook-
ing facilities are provided so you must use their
restaurant. The long swimming pool meanders
between huge native trees in a garden setting.
The Natadola Beach Resort was built by New
Zealander Peter Jones, who developed the Coral
Coast Railway from Shangri-la's Fijian Resort in
1986. Peter has since sold the railway, but pas-
sengers still have lunch at the resort. Other day-
trippers cannot order drinks here without also
taking lunch.
A far less expensive place to stay is Robin-
son Crusoe Island (P.O. Box 2580, Nadi; tel.
550-050 or 700-026, fax 700-010), on Likuri Is-
land, a small coral isle just north of Natadola. The
two island bure with shared bath are F$80 double,
while the big bure dorm is F$35 pp. Rooms in the
Coconut House are F$79 pp. Prices include all
meals, and fishing, snorkeling, and windsurfing
are free activities. Surfing is F$25 pp (not including
gear). Boat transfers from the Natadola Road Jetty
are at 1000 and 1630, costing F$20 pp round-trip
for the boat only or F$30 including bus transfers
from Nadi. Day tours to Robinson Crusoe Island
are F$79 pp, Nadi hotel transfers and lunch in-
cluded. Call ahead to check prices, as they do
vary. The beach here is great, and it's a good al-
ternative to the better-known Mamanuca resorts.
Paradise Transport (tel. 500-028) has buses
on weekdays from Sigatoka to Vusama village
about three km from the beach at 0900, 1200,
1500, and 1700. Otherwise get off any Nadi bus
at the Tuva Indian School stop on Queens Road
and hitch 10 km to the beach. It's also possi-
ble to hike to Natadola in three hours along the
coastal railway line from opposite Shangri-La's
Fijian Resort.
166 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
Copyrighted material
SOUTHERN VITI LEVU 167
The Fijian
Shangri-La's Fijian Resort (Private Mail Bag
NAP 0353, Nadi Airport; tel. 520-155, fax 500-
402) occupies all 40 hectares of Yanuca Island,
not to be confused with another island of the
same name west of Beqa. This Yanuca Island is
connected to Viti Levu by a causeway 10 km
west of Sigatoka and 61 km southeast of Nadi
Airport. Former President Mara's wife is the main
landowner of the island, although the resort itself
is Malaysian owned. Opened in 1967, the 436-
room complex of three-story Hawaiian-style
buildings was Fiji's first large resort and it's still Fi-
ji's biggest hotel, catering to a predominantly
Japanese clientele. The air-conditioned rooms
begin at F$370 single or double, or FS950 for
a deluxe beach bure, plus tax. There's no charge
for two children 18 or under sharing their par-
ents' room, so this resort is a good choice for
families. Shangri-La's Fijian offers a nine-hole
golf course (par 31 ), five tennis courts, numerous
restaurants and bars, three swimming pools,
and a white sandy beach. Every Friday night
there's firewalking, a meke, and a lovo. Avis
Rent A Car has a desk in The Fijian.
John Anthony s Coral Coast Scuba Ven-
tures (P.O. Box 812, Sigatoka; tel. 520-155 or
528-793, fax 520-356) has the diving conces-
sion at Shangri-La's Fijian Resort. There are
morning and afternoon dives, costing F$1 10/180
for one-two tanks including gear. Night diving is
FS130. Daily at 1300, there's a free scuba lesson
at the Shangri-La's Fijian Resort's pool. Dive
sites such as Nabaibai Passage, Barracuda Drift,
The Wall, Golden Reef, and The Pinnacles are
within a few minutes of the resort jetty.
Attractions near Shangri-La
Train buffs won't want to miss the Fijian Princess,
a restored narrow-gauge railway originally built to
haul sugarcane. It now runs 16-km day-trips
along the coast to Natadola Beach daily at 1000.
The station is on the highway opposite the ac-
cess road to Shangri-La's Fijian Hotel, and the
ride costs FS69 pp including a barbecue lunch.
For information about hotel pickups call the Coral
Coast Railway Co. (P.O. Box 571, Sigatoka;
tel. 520-434).
Across the road from the train station is the Ka
Levu Cultural Center (tel. 520-200), a mock-Fi-
jian village dispensing instant Fijian culture to
tourists for F$15 pp admission. The walls of
Gecko's Restaurant in the center are totally cov-
ered with colorful murals on the theme "a girl's
night out" by Australian artist Kerry Melen.
Sigatoka Sand Dunes
From the mouth of the Sigatoka River westward,
five kilometers of incredible 20-meter-high sand
dunes separate the cane fields from the beach.
These dunes were formed over millennia as
sediments brought down by the river were blown
back up onto the shore by the southeast trades.
The winds sometimes uncover human bones
from old burials, and potsherds lie scattered
along the seashore— these fragments have been
carbon dated at up to 3,000 years old. Now and
then giant sea turtles come ashore here to lay
their eggs.
It's a fascinating, evocative place, protected
since 1 989 as a national park through the efforts
of the National Trust for Fiji. The Visitors Center
(tel. 520-343; admission F$5 pp) is on Queens
Road, about four km west of Sigatoka. Exhibits
outline the ecology of the park, and for an extra
fee, park wardens will lead visitors along a foot-
path over dunes that reach as high as 50 meters
in one area. It's well worth a visit to experience this
unique environment. Any local bus between Nadi
and Sigatoka will drop you right in front of the
Sand Dunes Visitors Center on the main high-
way (the express buses won't stop here).
KULUKULU
Fiji's superlative surfing beach is near Kulukulu
village, five km south of Sigatoka, where the
Sigatoka River breaks through Viti Levu's fring-
ing reef to form the Sigatoka Sand Dunes. The
surf is primarily a river-mouth point break with nu-
merous beach breaks down the beach. It's one of
the only places for beach-break surfing on Viti
Levu, and unlike most other surfing locales
around Fiji, no boat is required here. The wind-
surfing in this area is fantastic, as you can ei-
ther sail "flat water" across the river mouth or
do "wave jumping" in the sea (all-sand bottom
and big rollers with high wind). The surfing is
good all the time, but if you want to combine it
with windsurfing, it's good planning to surf in the
morning and windsurf in the afternoon when the
Copyrighted material
168 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
wind comes up. You can also bodysurf here. Be
prepared, however, as these waters are treach-
erous for novices. There's a nice place nearby
where you can swim in the river and avoid the
ocean's currents.
American surfer Marcus Oliver runs a small
budget resort behind the dunes called Club Masa
(P.O. Box 710, Sigatoka; tel. 925-717), also
known as Oasis Budget Lodge, "a licensed private
hotel for nomads of the winds and surf." The rates
including two good meals are F$40 pp in the 1 0-
bed dormitory or F$50 pp in the two double rooms
ana two iour-Dea rooms (two-night minimum stay).
Camping is not allowed. There's no electricity,
but the layout is attractive and the location ex-
cellent. Have a beer on their pleasant open porch.
Food and drinks are not available during the day,
so you should bring something for snacks. Sport-
ing equipment is also not provided, and ask what
time they plan to lock the gate before going out for
an evening stroll (and leave your valuables behind
as this is an isolated area). When Marcus is away,
his father Gordon Oliver manages the property,
and it's important to make a good impression
when you first arrive as Gordon doesn't accept
just anybody as a guest. It's a good base from
which to surf this coast.
Sunbeam Transport (tel. 500-168) has buses
from Sigatoka to Kulukulu village 1 1 times on
Saturdays, eight times on Wednesdays, and six
times on other weekdays, but none on Sunday
and holidays. Taxi fare to Club Masa should be
around F$5, and later you may have to pay only
a dollar for a seat in an empty taxi returning to
Sigatoka.
SIGATOKA
Sigatoka ("sing-a-TO-ka") is the main center for
the Coral Coast tourist district and headquar-
ters of Nadroga/Navosa Province with a racially
mixed population of 8,000. A new bridge over
the Sigatoka River opened here in 1997, re-
placing an older bridge damaged during a 1 994
hurricane but still used by pedestrians. The town
has a picturesque riverside setting and is pleas-
ant to stroll around.
You'll find ubiquitous souvenir shops and a
colorful local market with a large handicraft sec-
tion (especially on Wednesday and Saturday).
Jack's Handicrafts (tel. 500-810) facing the
river is worth a look. Strangely, the traditional
handmade Fijian pottery for which Sigatoka is
famous is not available here. Find it by asking in
Nayawa (where the clay originates), Yavulo,
Nasama, and Lawai villages near Sigatoka.
Upriver from Sigatoka is a wide valley known
as Fiji's "salad bowl" for its rich market gardens
by Fiji's second-largest river. Vegetables are
grown in farms on the west side of the valley,
while the lands on the east bank are planted
with sugarcane. Small trucks use the good dirt
road up the west side of the river to take the
produce to market, while a network of narrow-
gauge railways collects the cane from the east
side. You can drive right up the valley in a normal
car. The locals believe that Dakuwaqa, shark
god of the Fijians, dwells in the river.
The valley also supplies a fruit juice cannery at
Sigatoka that processes bananas, mangos,
guava, papayas, and tomatoes purchased from
villagers who harvest fruit growing wild on their
land (the creation of large plantations is inhibited
by the threat of hurricanes). South Pacific Foods
Ltd. sells mostly to the United States and Europe
where their pulp has secured a niche in the or-
ganic food market. It's owned by the French
transnational entrepreneur Pernod Ricard.
Also near Sigatoka, five km up the left (east)
bank of the river from the bridge, is the Tavuni
Hill Fort on a bluff at Naroro village. The fort
was established by the 18th-century Tongan
chief Maile Latemai and destroyed by native
troops under British control in 1876. An inter-
pretive center and walkways have been estab-
lished, and admission is F$6 for adults or F$3 for
children (dosed Sunday). There's a good view of
the river and surrounding countryside from here.
Those without transport can take a taxi from
Sigatoka to the reception area (about F$15
round-trip including a one-hour wait). Otherwise
the occasional Mavua bus will bring you here
from Sigatoka. To walk from Sigatoka takes
about an hour or so each way.
The Riverview Hotel (P.O. Box 22, Sigatoka; tel.
520-544, fax 520-200), above Melrose Restau-
rant facing the new bridge in town, has seven
rooms with bath and balcony at F$35/45 sin-
gle/double.
Copyrighted material
SOUTHERN VITI LEVU 169
The Sigatoka Club (P.O. Box 38, Sigatoka;
tel. 500-026), across the traffic circle from the
Riverview, has four fan-cooled rooms with private
bath at F$22/33 single/double, and a five-bed
dorm at F$1 1 pp. Check that there's water before
checking in and bring mosquito coils. The rooms
are often full, but the Club's bar is always perfect
for a beer or a game of pool (three tables). The
bar is open Monday-Saturday 1000-2200, Sun-
day 1000-2100.
Singh's Backpacker's Motel (P.O. Box 247,
Sigatoka; teL/fax 500-514), located on the road
west of the pedestrian bridge, offers a large
dorm at F$12 pp, plus rooms for FS25/30 single/
double.
Food
The Lucky Corner Restaurant (tel. 520-275)
in front of the bus station dispenses greasy fast
food to bus passengers during their 15-minute
stop here.
The Rattan Restaurant (tel. 500-819). fur-
ther along the row of shops beside the market,
has F$3 chicken, fish, sausage, and chip meals
in the warmer behind the front counter. More
expensive a la carte dishes are served in the
dark dining room in back.
Le Cafe (tel. 520-668; Mon.-Sat. 0900-1700),
next to Jack's Handicrafts, is a branch of a
restaurant of the same name at Korotogo. You
have a choice of a dozen lunches for F$5.50
170 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
(pizzas F$6-17). Connect to the Internet at Le
Surf Cafe here at F$3.50 for 10 minutes.
Otherwise head over to the Sigatoka Club
near the new bridge where meals average F$5 at
lunchtime (listed on a blackboard) but cost much
more at dinner (printed menu).
Services
Of the four banks in Sigatoka, the Westpac is
the most convenient since they have a sepa-
rate overseas section at the back and you don't
have to join the long queue of local customers.
The ANZ Bank opposite the bus station has a
Visa/MasterCard ATM outside their office.
The public fax at the post office is fax 520-220.
T-Wicks Ltd. (tel. 520-820), on Sigatoka Val-
ley Road, offers email at F$0.30 a minute.
Caines Photofast (tel. 500-877), between
Lucky Corner and Rattan Restaurant, develops
color film in one hour.
Health
The District Hospital (tel. 500-455) is just south-
west of Sigatoka, out on the road to Nadi.
Dr. Gurusmarna D. Dasi (tel. 500-369) and
Dr. Rudy Gerona and Dr. (Mrs.) Aida Gerona
(tel. 520-128 or 520-327) all work out of offices
on Sigatoka Valley Road, facing the river a bit
north of the old bridge. They're open Mon-
day-Friday 0830-1600, Saturday 0830-1300.
Patel Chemist (tel. 500-213) is behind the
market.
Transportation
Pacific Transport (tel. 500-088) express buses
leave Sigatoka for Suva at 0845, 0910, 1025,
1425, 1800, and 1945 (127 km, 3.5 hours,
FS6.35), and for Nadi Airport at 0935, 1115,
1220, 1500, 1800, and 2020 (70 km, 1.5 hours,
F$3.70). Sunbeam Transport has express
buses to Suva at 0640, 0800, 1220, and 1320.
Many additional local services also operate
to/from Nadi (61 km). Beware of taxi drivers hus-
tling for passengers in the bus station who may
claim untruthfully that there's no bus going where
you want to go.
Weekdays you can arrange your own 4.5-
hour, F$6 tour by taking the 0900 Paradise
Transport (tel. 500-028) bus up the west side of
the Sigatoka Valley to Tubarua and back. Carri-
ers to places farther up the valley like Korolevu
(F$7) and Namoli (F$7) leave weekdays just
after noon, returning the next day. They park
beside a mango tree at the market, just around
the comer from Sigatoka Bus Station.
Budget Rent-a-Car (tel. 500-986) is at Ni-
ranjan's, opposite the Mobil Service Station at the
west entrance to town.
KOROTOGO
A cluster of budget places to stay and one large
American-run resort are at Korotogo, eight km
east of Sigatoka, with only the Outrigger Reef
Resort, Sandy Point Beach Cottages, and
Tubakula Beach Resort right on the beach it-
self. Most of the places to stay at Korolevu farther
east are more upmarket. East of Korotogo the
sugar fields of western Viti Levu are replaced
by coconut plantations with rainforests creep-
ing up the green slopes behind.
A road almost opposite Sandy Point Beach
Cottages leads to a bird park called Kula Eco
The original explorers of Oceania, the Polynesians,
left distinctive lapita pottery, decorated in horizontal
bands, scattered across the Pacific. Around 500
B C the art was lost and no more pottery was made
in roiynesia. Meianesian pottery stems from a dif-
ferent tradition. This antique water pot was shaped
and decorated by hand, as are those made in the
Sigatoka Valley today.
Copyrighted material
SOUTHERN VITI LEVU 171
Park (tel. 500-505, fax 520-202; open daily
1000-1630. admission FS11. children under 12
half price). It's your only chance to get a close
look at the kula lorikeet, the Kadavu musk parrot,
the goshawk, and others. The park has a captive
breeding program for the endangered crested
iguana and peregrine falcon. Displays explain it all.
Accommodations
The first place you reach as you arrive from
Sigatoka is Korotogo Lodge (tel. 500-733), 400
meters north of the traffic circle at the west end of
Korotogo. They have two family rooms at F$40
single or double, and one smaller room at F$25
single or double. It's F$12 pp in the 10-bed dorm.
Rooms by the hour are F$10. You can use the
communal kitchen, but it's all very basic and
right on the noisy highway— not recommended.
The Crow's Nest Resort (P.O. Box 270, Siga-
toka; tel. 500-230, fax 520-354), a few hundred
meters southeast of the traffic circle on Sunset
Strip, offers 18 split-level duplex bungalows with
cooking facilities and verandah at F$88 for up to
four, breakfast included. The Crow's Nest Dor-
mitory behind the reception is F$20 pp including
breakfast and dinner for the eight beds. The
restaurant is behind the swimming pool. The
nicely landscaped grounds are just across the
highway from the beach and good views over
the lagoon are obtained from the Crow's Nest's
elevated perch.
The Vakaviti Motel and Dorm (Arthur Jen-
nings, P.O. Box 5, Sigatoka; tel. 500-526, fax
520-424). next to the Crow's Nest, has three self-
catering units at FS45/65 single/double, and a
five-bed family bure at F$75 double. Children
are F$5 if naughty, free if good kids. Two rooms
with shared bath are F$40 double. There are
two six-bed dormitories, one with a nice ocean
view (F$18 pp) and another with no fan (F$15
pp). Stay a week and the eighth night is free.
Facilities include a swimming pool and a large
lending library/book exchange at the reception. At
last report Vakaviti was for sale, so things could
change. (Vakaviti means the Fijian way of life.")
The Casablanca Hotel (P.O. Box 1486, Siga-
toka; tel. 520-600), next door to Vakaviti, is a
two-story hillside building on the inland side of
Sunset Strip. Its eight a/c rooms with cooking
facilities and arched balconies begin at FS45/60
single/double.
A more upmarket place to stay is the Bedarra
Inn (P.O. Box 1213, Sigatoka; tel. 500-476, fax
520-116), 77 Sunset Strip, with 21 a/c rooms
with fridge in a new two-story block at F$155
for up to four persons. You could be quoted a
price much lower than this if you call to ask if
any specials are on offer. It's all tastefully deco-
rated but only four rooms have kitchens. A swim-
ming pool, video room, and lounge round out
their facilities.
Just a few hundred meters east near the Out-
rigger Reef Resort is Waratah Lodge (P.O. Box
86, Sigatoka; tel. 500-278), with three large A-
frame bungalows at F$44 double, plus F$5 per
additional person up to six maximum. The two
rooms below the reception in the main building
are F$33/39 single/double. Cooking facilities are
available. The swimming pool and charming
management add to the allure. It's good value
and recommended.
The 254-room Outrigger Reef Resort (P.O.
Box 173, Sigatoka; tel. 500-044, fax 520-074)
plunges down the hillside from Queens Road to
a sandy beach. A great view of this Fijian vil-
lage-style complex can be had from the recep-
tion. In 2000 the property underwent a US$23.3
million redevelopment, and to provide more build-
ing space the main highway was rerouted away
from the coast. The new hotel is owned by Aus-
tralians Geoff Shaw and Bob Cliff, who also run
Castaway Island Resort in the Mamanucas, and
it's managed by Outrigger Hotels of Hawaii. The
Outrigger caters to the middle market, provid-
ing comfortable, unpretentious facilities at af-
fordable package prices. The four-story main
building on the hill has 167 a/c rooms with ocean
views and balconies, beginning at F$410 for up
to four people. Down near the million-liter swim-
ming pool by the beach is a three-story block
remaining from the old Reef Resort, with 40 a/c
rooms starting at FS495. Scattered around the
grounds are 47 regular thatched bure with fan
from FS475, and five big duplex bure at F$1 ,150
for a family of up to six. Rates include tax and a
buffet breakfast. Wheelchair accessible rooms
are available. Most guests have all-inclusive
packages and pay substantially less than this.
Even if you're not staying here, it's worth coming
for the Fijian firewalking Friday at 1845 (F$12),
followed by a buffet and meke at the restaurant
(F$32). Tennis courts are provided, and Thrifty
Copyrighted material
172 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
Car Rental and Rosie The Travel Service have
desks just off the lobby. The Avis office (tel. 520-
144) is on the beach opposite Waratah Lodge
just west of the hotel.
Sandy Point Beach Cottages (P.O. Box 23,
Sigatoka; tel. 500-125, fax 520-147) shares the
same beach with the adjacent Outrigger Reef
Resort. Three fan-cooled double units with full
cooking facilities are offered at F$70 single, F$80
double or triple, and a five-bed cottage is F$130.
Set in spacious grounds right by the sea, Sandy
Point has its own freshwater swimming pool.
The six huge satellite dishes you see on their
lawn allow you to pick up 10 channels on the
TV in your room. It's a good choice for families or
small groups, but it's often full so you must re-
serve well ahead.
A bit east again is Tubakula Beach Resort
(P.O. Box 2, Sigatoka; tel. 500-097. fax 500-
201 ). The 23 pleasant A-frame bungalows with
fan, cooking facilities, and private bath, each
capable of sleeping three, vary in price from
F$60 in the garden to F$73 facing the beach
(F$12 extra for a fourth person). Superior bun-
galows are FS83 poolside or F$97 beachfront.
One self-catering house has three rooms with
shared bath at F$36/40 single/double. Their
"Beach Club" dormitory consists of eight rooms,
each with three or four beds at F$15 a bed.
Small discounts are available to youth hostel,
VIP, and Nomads card holders, and if you stay a
week you'll get 10 percent off. Late readers will
like the good lighting. A communal kitchen is
available to all, plus a swimming pool, games
room, nightly videos, and mini-market. The snor-
keling here is good, there's surfing and scuba
diving nearby, and bus excursions are available.
What more do you want? Basically, Tubakula
is a quiet, do-your-own-thing kind of place for
people who don't need lots of organized activi-
ties. Seated on your terrace watching the sky
turn orange and purple behind the black silhou-
ettes of the palms along the beach, a bucket of
cold Fiji Bitter stubbies close at hand, you'd
swear this was paradise! It's one of the most
popular backpacker's resorts in Fiji and well
worth a couple of nights.
Food
Facing the beach just west of the Outrigger Reef
Resort is Fasta Food (tel. 520-619) with a black-
board listing a variety of dishes for F$4-12. Pizza
is FS6-30 (dinner only). To get there from the
Outrigger, go down onto the beach and walk west.
A much better bet is Le Cafe Garden Restau-
rant (tel. 520-877; Mon.-Sat. 1600-2200), be-
tween Fasta Food and Waratah Lodge. Pizzas
are F$6-15. specials F$7-15. Happy hour is
1700-1900. Under Swiss management, this
place has class.
Another evening you could walk 800 meters
west to the Crow's Nest Restaurant (tel. 500-
230; daily 0700-1500/1800-2130). The best
place for a meal out along this way is the Be-
darra Inn (tel. 500-476; daily 0700-2200). with
main dishes ranging from pasta Bedarra at F$13
to lobster for F$36. Their specialty is seafood
curry, baked and served in a fresh whole co-
conut (F$19). The Sinbad Restaurant (tel. 520-
600) at the Casablanca Hotel isn't as nice as
these, though prices are a bit lower.
Internet Access
Adventures in Paradise (P.O. Box 910, Siga-
toka; tel. 520-833; Mon.-Sat. 0800-1830, Sun.
1000-1830), next to Fasta Food, offers an In-
ternet connection at FS0.30 a minute. They also
sell tours to Biausevu Falls (F$79) and the Nai-
hehe Cave (F$99).
Getting There
Local buses on Queens Road stop at the doors
of the Outrigger Reef Resort and Tubakula
Beach Resort. For the Crow's Nest, Vakaviti,
Casablanca, Bedarra, and Waratah, get off the
bus at the traffic circle on the coast, just where
the highway turns inland and heads east toward
the Outrigger. From there, you follow the old
highway (Sunset Strip) south along the beach to
your hotel.
VATUKARASA
This small village between Korotogo and Ko-
rolevu is notable for its quaint appearance and
the Baravi Handicraft Boutique (tel. 520-364),
which carries a wide selection of Fijian handi-
crafts at fixed prices. They buy directly from the
craftspeople themselves and add only a 20 per-
cent markup, plus tax. It's a good place to get an
idea of how much things should cost and is worth
an outing by local bus if you're staying at one
of the Coral Coast resorts.
Copyrighted material
SOUTHERN VITI LEVU 173
KOROLEVU
At Korolevu, east of Korotogo. the accommo-
dations tend to cater to a more upscale crowd,
and cooking facilities are usually not provided
for guests. These places are intended primarily
for people on packaged beach holidays who in-
tend to spend most of their time unwinding. Dis-
tances between the resorts are great, so for
sightseeing you'll be dependent on your hotel's
tour desk. An exception is the celebrated Beac-
house, which opened in 1996. The Coral Vil-
lage Resort and Waidroka Bay Resort farther
east also accommodate budget travelers, but
they're both far off the highway.
For scuba diving, it's Mike's Divers (Mike
and Phylis Jaureguy, P.O. Box 136, Korolevu;
tel./fax 530-222) at Votua village near Korole-
vu. Mike's prices are the best on this coast at
FS65/1 1 0/300/450 for one/two/six/1 0 tanks, plus
F$10 for gear. Night diving is F$75. Non-divers
can snorkel from the boat for F$10 (or free from
his beach). Non-swimmers can sit on his seaside
verandah and have a cup of tea. All the usual
courses are offered, including open-water certi-
fication at F$395. Drift diving along Morgan's
Wall is Mike's specialty (giant sea fans, soft
corals, lion fish). Or ask to go to Turtle Town
where all good turtles sleep.
Several companies offer tours to Biausevu
Falls a 25-minute hike from Biausevu village, itself
just under three km inland from Queens Road
between The Warwick and Vilisite's Restaurant.
The trail to the falls zigzags across the river half a
dozen times, but you'll enjoy a refreshing swim in
the pool at the foot of the cascading waterfall.
The village charges FS5 pp admission to the area.
Call Adventures in Paradise (tel. 520-833) in Ko-
rotogo for information on tours.
Accommodations
The Tambua Sands Beach Resort (P.O. Box
177. Sigatoka; tel. 500-399, fax 520-265). in an
attractive location facing the sea about 10 km
east of the Outrigger Reef Resort, conveys a
feeling of calm and peace. The 31 beach bun-
galows are F$85 garden or F$1 15 beachfront
for a double. No cooking facilities are provided.
Though the restaurant is nothing special, there's
a swimming pool, excellent live music most
evenings, and a meke on Friday night. UTC has
a tour desk at this hotel.
The 80-room Hideaway Resort (P.O. Box
233. Sigatoka; tel. 500-177. fax 520-025) at Ko-
rolevu, is three km east of Tambua Sands and 20
km east of Sigatoka. Set on a palm-fringed
beach before a verdant valley, the smaller fan-
cooled bure begin at FS209 triple; larger units
suitable for up to six people go for FS390. a full
breakfast included (no cooking facilities). Not all
rooms have air conditioning. A five-day, five-
dinner plan is FS132. This resort provides en-
tertainment nightly, including a meke on Tuesday
and Friday, firewalking on Thursday (F$15), and
an all-you-can-eat Fijian feast Sunday night
1
I ,;J w*
two children near
Hideaway Resort
174 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
(F$26). The Rosie The Travel Service desk
arranges other trips and Thrifty Car Rental book-
ings. Surfing is possible on a very hollow right in
the pass here (not for beginners), and scuba
diving can be arranged.
The Naviti Resort (P.O. Box 29. Korolevu;
tel. 530-444. fax 530-099). just west of Korolevu
and 100 km from Nadi Airport, has 140 spacious
a/c rooms and suites in a series of two-story
blocks beginning at F$293/403 single/double in-
cluding all meals plus unlimited wine or beer
and many activities. Breakfast is the best meal of
the day. The all-inclusive price allows you to
enjoy your holiday without mounting bills (a room
alone is F$230 single or double). There's fire-
walking on Wednesday (F$12) and a lovo on
Friday (F$19). The five tennis courts are floodlit
at night. Nonguests may use the nine-hole golf
course for F$10, and scuba diving is possible. A
fun park contains children's rides and games
(admission F$7). Other facilities include a mini fit-
ness center, swimming pool, beauty center, and
boutique. A free newsletter called The Naviti
Sandpaper outlines each day's activities. Rosie
The Travel Service has a desk at The Naviti.
The resort shares its beach with a Fijian village.
Vilisite's Seafood Restaurant (tel. 530-054;
daily 0800-2200), by the lagoon between The
Warwick and The Naviti, has four spacious a/c
rooms with bath and fridge at F$66 double, plus
one four-person family room at F$77. Though
the accommodations are good value, "Felicity's
Place" is better known for its restaurant, as this is
the place to stop for food between Nadi and
Suva. You might bump into your country's am-
bassador on their beachside terrace. The cham-
pagne sunsets here from 1800-1900 are unfor-
gettable. The favorite lunch dish is fish and chips
at FS6/12 for a small/large portion. Otherwise
there's chop suey or curries from F$5-1 5. Dinner
consists of a choice of six set seafood menus
costing FS20-35. Their gift shop has good prices
on wooden drums. It's worth the taxi ride if you're
staying at The Warwick or The Naviti.
The Warwick Fiji (P.O. Box 100, Korolevu;
tel. 530-555, fax 530-010), on the Queens Road
just east of Korolevu, 107 km from Nadi Airport,
is the third-largest hotel on the Coral Coast (after
The Fijian and the Outrigger Reef). Erected in
1 979 and part of the Hyatt Regency chain until
1991, it's now owned by the same Singapore-
AROUND KOROLEVU
To
Sigatoka
and Nadi
MuaUU
controlled company as The Naviti and there's a
shuttle bus between the two. The 248 a/c rooms
in three-story wings running east and west from
the lobby are F$286/321 double/triple with moun-
tain views, F$31 9/354 with ocean views, or
FS450/485 club suite. The Wicked Walu seafood
restaurant on a small offshore islet connected to
the main beach by a causeway serves large
portions but is expensive (dinner only). The other
hotel restaurants could be crowded with Aus-
tralian families and you might even end up wait-
ing in a long line (F$60 meal plan). There's live
SOUTHERN VITI LEVU 175
^-Xorolevu
' THE WARWICK HOTEL
V*5
V\ To
i 'lip
Nabukelevu and
Upper Navua GorQe
V i t i L e v ii Island
Lokalevu
(641 m)
*
»
*
»
»
■
y
Navakatagi
(502 ml
A
< OBiausevu
I
I
»
A Korokayiu
(5J0m)
o
music in the Hibiscus Lounge nightly until 0100
and nightly disco dancing. The firewalking is on
Monday and Friday at 1800 (F$1 1 ). This plush
resort is very much oriented toward organized
activities with a complete sports and fitness cen-
ter. Avis Rent A Car and UTC Tours have desks
at The Warwick.
One of the South Pacific's best budget re-
sorts, The Beachouse (P.O. Box 68, Korolevu;
tel. 530-500, fax 530-400), is on a palm-fringed
white beach just off Queens Road, between
Navola and Namatakula villages, about five km
east of The Warwick. It's 35 km east of Sigatoka
and 43 km west of Pacific Harbor— keep in mind
that only local buses will stop here. Their slo-
gan is "low cost luxury on the beach" and the
whole project was painstakingly designed to
serve the needs of backpackers (and not as a
dormitory tacked onto an upmarket resort as an
afterthought). The two wooden accommodation
blocks each have four five-bunk dorms down-
stairs (FS16.50 pp) and four triple fan-cooled
loft rooms upstairs (F$18 pp). In addition, 12
neat little units in a quadrangle at the heart of the
Copyrighted material
176 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
Myriad snails crawl for the money at Hideaway's
weekly mollusk marathon.
property are F$46 single or double. Campers
are allowed to pitch their tents on the wide lawn
between the rooms and the beach at FS8.80
pp. Separate toilet/shower facilities for men and
women are just behind the main buildings, and
nearby is a communal kitchen and dining area.
It's all very clean and pleasant. Afternoon tea
and scones are F$2. Lunch in their beachfront
lounge consists of fish and chips or steak burg-
ers, costing around F$7. The closest grocery
store is in Korolevu (there's only a tiny coopera-
tive store in Namatakula). Not only is the ocean
swimming good at high tide (unlike the situation
at many other Coral Coast hotels where you
end up using the pool), but they'll take you out to
the nearby reef in their launch for snorkeling
(F$6 for a mask and fins, if required). However,
do ask about the currents before going far off
on your own — in 1998 two Korean tourists were
drowned after being swept out through a reef
passage. Other trips include a minibus tour to Bi-
ausevu Falls (F$4 for transportation, plus F$5 ad-
mission to the falls). A shopping/shuttle to Suva
can be arranged (F$12 pp round-trip, minimum of
five). Sea kayaks and bicycles are loaned for
free, and there's a bush track up into the hits
behind the resort. The lending library serves
those who only came to relax.
Crusoe's Retreat (P.O. Box 20. Korolevu;
tel. 500-185. fax 520-666), by the beach four
km off Queens Road from Naboutini, was for-
merly called the Man Friday Resort. The 21 large
bure each have two double beds, a fridge, and a
porch. The 11 "seaside" bure are FS210 dou-
ble, while the 10 "seaview" bungalows on the
hillside are F$186. Only units Nos. 1-6 have
thatched roofs (No. 1 is the closest to the beach).
Prices include all meals and non-motorized
sports, scuba diving is available (extra charge),
and a daily activity program is offered. The name
alludes to Daniel Defoe's novel Robinson Cm-
soe. and the footprint-shaped freshwater swim-
ming pool symbolizes Man Friday. This attractive
resort is much more upscale than nearby Coral
Village Resort, and although the beach isn't as
nice, the snorkeling is comparable.
Coral Village Resort (Margaret and Tony
Davon, P.O. Box 104, Korolevu; tel. 500-807,
fax 308-383) was formerly known as Gaia
Beach Resort. It's just beyond Namaqumaqua
village, 4.5 km off Queens Road down the same
access road as Crusoe's Retreat — the most
secluded place to stay on the Coral Coast. The
resort is set in a narrow valley that opens onto a
lovely white beach (one of the Coral Coast's
best) facing a protected lagoon. The eight large
well-constructed bungalows with fan and fridge
are F$135 double including two meals (or F$65
single or double without meals). There's also a
five-bed dorm at F$38 pp including two meals
(F$14 pp without meals). Cooking your own
food is not possible, so you must patronize their
restaurant, which luckily, is good. This hidden,
peaceful place in harmony with nature is a great
spot to relax. It's not at all crowded even when
full. Therapeutic massage is offered, and Coral
Village has its own dive shop right on the
premises. Surfing, rafting, and fishing can be
arranged. If you call ahead they'll pick you up
from the bus stop on Queens Road (F$3 charge
to cover gas).
The Waidroka Bay Resort (P.O. Box 323,
Deuba; tel. 304-605, fax 304-383) is up the
steep, rough gravel road leading to the Dogowale
SOUTHERN VITILEVU 177
Radio Tower between Korovisilou and Talenaua,
four km off Queens Road. After rains, an ordinary
car might not be able to make it. Operating since
1995, Waidroka has earned a reputation as one
of Fiji's top surfing resorts. Accommodations in-
clude an 1 1-bed dormitory at F$18 pp and three
lodge rooms with shared bath at F$54 triple.
The three neat little oceanfront bungalows with
private bath, fan, bamboo walls, and covered
deck are F$99/1 34 double/triple. The optional
meal plan is FS38 pp a day (cooking facilities
are not provided), otherwise entrees in the
restaurant are FS9-20. Videos are shown at the
jungle bar at night. The surfing crowd loves this
place, and it's the only "mainland" resort surf-
ing Frigate Passage and six other local breaks.
Three breaks are just a five-minute boat ride
from the resort, and they'll ferry you out there
at FS20 pp for two hours. Snorkeling trips, which
cost the same, are necessary, because
Waidroka's beach is mediocre. Waidroka's 10-
meter dive boat Fiji Explorer has two 200-hp en-
gines, which enables it to reach Frigate Pas-
sage in just 20 minutes (surfers pay F$45 pp in-
cluding lunch, with a FS180 minimum charge
for the boat). Scuba diving is FS60/110 for
one/two tanks, plus F$15 for equipment. Open-
water certification is F$399 (advanced courses
available). Sport fishing aboard Fishing Machine
is F$600/1 ,000 a half/full day for four persons.
Call ahead and the resort folk will pick you up for
free at Korovisilou village on Queens Road.
An Australian couple, Donna and Brian Mc-
Donald, run Surfing Fiji Adventures (P.O. Box
357, Deuba; tel. 923-230) out of their home on
the hill behind the Waidroka Bay Resort. Their
two-room pole house called "The Retreat" of-
fers a magnificent view of the Beqa Lagoon, and
Donna's cooking is fantastic (usually fish caught
by trolling on the way back from the surf site).
They charge around F$30 pp to local surf breaks,
staying out as long as you want (three-person
minimum). Check their website for details.
spider conch, lambris chiragra
178 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
PACIFIC HARBOR AND VICINITY
PACIFIC HARBOR
Southeastern Viti Levu from Deuba to Suva is
wetter and greener than the coast to the west,
and the emphasis changes from beach life to
cultural and natural attractions. Pacific Harbor
satisfies sporting types, while Fiji's finest river
trips begin at Navua. In this area scattered Indo-
Fijian dwellings join the Fijian villages that pre-
dominate farther west. All of the places listed
below are easily accessible on the fairly frequent
Galoa bus from Suva market.
Pacific Harbor is a sprawling South Florida-
style condo development and instant culture vil-
lage, 148 km east of Nadi Airport and 49 km
west of Suva. It was begun in the early 1 970s by
Canadian developer David Gilmour (the current
owner of Wakaya Island) and his father Peter
Munk, and good paved roads meander between
the landscaped lots with curving canals to drain
what was once a swamp. Many residents have
boats tied up in their back yard, and if it weren't
for the backdrop of deep green hills you'd al-
most think you were in some Miami suburb. In
1 988 a Japanese corporation purchased Pacif-
ic Harbor, and many of the 180 individual villas
are owned Dy Australian or Hong Kong investors.
Sights
At last report, Pacific Harbor's imposing Cultur-
al Center (P.O. Box 74, Deuba; tel. 450-936)
was closed due to financial difficulties and a
drop in tourism, so call ahead if you were ex-
pecting to see a show. In the past, visitors were
shown around a re-created Fijian village featur-
PACIFIC
HARBOR
B e q a
Passage
Copyrighted material
PACIFIC HARBOR AND VICINITY 1 79
a model of a fortified village at the Pacific Harbor
Cultural Center
ing a small "sacred island" dominated by a 20-
meter-tall Bure Kalau (Spirit House). A tour guide
"warrior" carrying a spear would give a spiel to
visitors seated in a double-hulled drua, and Fi-
jians attired in jungle garb would demonstrate
traditional canoe making, weaving, tapa, and
pottery at stops along the route. Performances by
the Dance Theater of Fiji or Fijian firewalking
ended the program. The Center's Waikiki-style
Marketplace of Fiji, made up of mock-colonial
boutiques and assorted historical displays, is
still open and accessible free of charge. It's worth
a stop as you'll be able to see quite a bit of the
Cultural Center from the catwalk and there are a
few tourist shops. The main Pacific Harbor post
office (with two card phones) is next to the Cul-
tural Center.
Sports and Recreation
Dive Connections (Leyh and Edward Harness,
P.O. Box 287, Deuba; tel. 450-541 , fax 450-539) at
16 River Dr., just across the bridge from the Saku-
ra Japanese Restaurant, charges FS65/100 for
one/two tank dives (plus F$30 a day for gear).
Night dives are FS80. Four-day PADI open water
certification is F$395 (medical examination not
required), otherwise there's an introductory two-
dive package for FS140. Fishing charters
(FS44Q/750 a half/full day) and picnic excursions to
Yanuca Island (F$45 pp including lunch and snor-
keling) can be arranged on their 12-meter dive
boat Scuba Queen. Dive Connections also has
a self-catering flat next to their office which they
rent at F$40 double. They'll pick up anywhere
within eight kilometers of the Pacific Harbor bridge.
In early 1999 Aqua-Trek Beqa (Brandon
Paige, tel./fax 450-324) opened a dive base at the
Centra Resort Pacific Harbor's marina. Part of
an American chain, Aqua-Trek Beqa sends its
1 1 -meter boat, the Aqua-Sport, to the Beqa La-
goon twice daily. A two-dive excursion costs
F$150, plus F$15 for gear. You may see several
three-meter bull sharks on their shark dive, plus
gray reef, black tip, white tip, and nurse sharks.
Beqa Divers (P.O. Box 777. Suva; tel. 450-
323 or 361 -088, fax 361 -047), based at the La-
goon Resort, is a branch of Suva's Scubahire.
Their dive boat Fiji Diver heads south for diving
in the nearby Beqa Lagoon daily at 0900 (F$143
with two tanks and a light lunch). David and Lor-
raine Evans pioneered diving on sites just north
of Yanuca Island such as Side Streets. Soft
Coral Grotto. Caesar's Rocks, and Coral Gar-
dens. The Tasu No. 2, a Taiwanese fishing boat
intentionally sunk near Yanuca in 1994, is a
great wreck dive.
Tropical Expeditions (P.O. Box 129, Deuba;
tel./fax 450-666), run by personable Charles
Wakeham, operates the 18-meter live-aboard
Beqa Princess, based near the bridge across the
river from the Centra Resort. This relatively small
live-aboard carries only six divers on three-night
scuba cruises to the islands south of Vrti Levu, or
on day-trips to the Beqa Lagoon. Two-tank day
trips are FS120 including lunch or the boat may be
chartered. A compressor is on board.
Bay water Charters (P.O. Box 1 37, Deuba;
tel. 450-573, fax 450-606) has two game-fishing
boats based here, the nine-meter catamaran
Marau //and the 14-meter monohull Commander
One. Charter prices are F$500/900 for a half/full
day including lunch for 4-6 anglers.
Aside from the Cultural Center. Pacific Har-
bor's main claim to fame is its 18-hole, par-72
championship course at the Pacific Harbor Golf
and Country Club (P.O. Box 144, Deuba; tel.
450-048, fax 450-262), designed by Robert Trent
Jones Jr. and said to be the South Pacific's finest.
It's Fiji's only fully irrigated golf course with a com-
plete sprinkler system. Course records are 69 by
Bobby Clampett of the United States (amateur)
and 64 by Greg Norman of Australia (profession-
180 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
al). The big event here is the Pacific Harbor Open
in September. Green fees are FS15/30 for
nine/18 holes; electric cart rental is
FS20/35 for nine/1 8 holes and club
hire is a further FS20. You'll find a
restaurant and bar in the club
house, a couple of kilometers
inland off Queens Road.
Accommodations
Under US$25
The 1 0-room Pacific Safari
Club (P.O. Box 221, Deuba;
tel. 450-498, fax 450-499) is
just down Atoll Place from Saku-
ra House Restaurant. A bed in a
four-bed dorm here is F$18, otherwise
it's FS35/45 single/double with a/c, bath, TV,
and full cooking facilities. The Safari Club is very
convenient to the dive shops and express buses.
Club Coral Coast (Tak Hasegawa, P.O. Box
303, Deuba; tel. 450-421, fax 450-900) offers
quality rooms with shared cooking facilities and
fridge in large modem villas at Pacific Harbor. It's
at 12 Belo Circle near Dive Connections. There
are four a/c rooms with bath in one villa and two
in another at F$80/1 00 double/triple. Budget ac-
commodation with shared bath and kitchen is
FS25/40 single/double. Facilities include a 20-
meter swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis, and many
other sporting facilities.
For a cheaper room you must travel one km
west of the bridge at Pacific Harbor. In 1 994 the
Deuba Inn (P.O. Box 132, Deuba; tel. 450-544,
fax 361-337) opened at Deuba, 13 km west of
Navua. They have 10 rooms with shared bath at
F$17/27 single/double and five self-catering units
at F$60/65/70 double/triple/quad. Camping is
F$10 pp. The Inn's main drawback is that you
can't cook your own food in the cheaper rooms
and meals at the restaurant add up. Their
Planter's Bar is also handy if you're staying at the
"dry" Christian Camp next door (happy hour
1800-1900).
Adjacent to the Deuba Inn is the friendly Coral
Coast Christian Camp (P.O. Box 36, Deuba;
tel. 450-178). They offer four five-bed Kozy Ko-
rner rooms with a good communal kitchen and
cold showers at F$1 4/22/32 single/double/triple
(the warm shower in the ladies bathroom takes a
50-cent token). The five adjoining motel units
go for F$28/44/58, complete with private bath,
kitchen, fridge, and fan. Camping costs F$8
nn a email selection of snack foods is
sold at the office. No alcoholic bev-
erages are permitted on the
premises; on Sunday at 1930
you're invited to the Fellowship
Meeting in the manager's flat.
The Camp is just across the
highway from long golden
Loloma Beach, the closest
public beach to Suva, but
watch your valuables if you
swim here. The CCCC is a good
place to spend the night while ar-
ranging to get out to the surfers'
camps on Yanuca Island. Just avoid ar-
riving on a weekend as it's often fully booked
by church groups from Friday afternoon until
Sunday afternoon.
USS25-50
Harbor Property Services Ltd. (P.O. Box 331 ,
Deuba; tel./fax 450-959), with an office at the
Marketplace of Fiji, rents out 23 of the Pacific
Harbor villas at FS80/95 double/triple. All villas
have kitchens, lounge, and washing machine,
and most also have a pool. The minimum stay is
three nights and there's a slight reduction after a
week. A onetime cleaning fee of F$25 is
charged, and F$5 a day for electricity is extra.
USS50-100
The 84 a/c rooms at the three-story Centra Re-
sort Pacific Harbor (P.O. Box 144, Deuba; tel.
450-022, fax 450-262) are F$158/188 single/dou-
ble plus tax. Formerly known as the Pacific Har-
bor International Hotel, the Centra Resort has
been the area's leading resort since 1 972 and it's
presently owned by Bass Hotels and Resorts of
the United Kingdom. It's at the mouth of the
Qaraniqio River, between Queens Road and a
long sandy beach, on attractive grounds and
with a nice deep swimming pool. Floodlit tennis
courts are provided. The hotel restaurant serves
burgers (F$9) and pizza (F$15) all day. Their
dinner entrees run F$14-30. Happy hour at the
bar is 1730-1830, and it can get lively if the right
folks are around. The resort offers a baby sit-
ting service called the "Kids Only Club" for chil-
dren 4-12.
PACIFIC HARBOR AND VICINITY 181
The advantage of the Fiji Palms Beach Club
Resort (P.O. Box 6. Deuba; tel. 450-050, fax
450-025), right next to the Centra Resort Pacif-
ic Harbor, is that the 14 two-bedroom apart-
ments have cooking facilities, which allows you
to skip the many expensive restaurants in these
parts. It's F$1 50 for up to six people for the unit
(a week costs F$900). Some of the apartments
have been sold as part of a timeshare scheme.
The Lagoon Resort (Heather and Jim Sher-
lock, P.O. Box 1 1 , Deuba; tel. 450-100, fax 450-
270), formerly the Korean Village and before that
the Atholl Hotel, is beautifully set on Fairway
Place between the nver and the golf course, a 10-
minute walk from the clubhouse. It's also con-
venient for scuba divers with a dive shop on the
premises. The 22 plush rooms with marble bath-
rooms and TV are F$125 double but discounts
are onen onerea. it s iniana a couple or kilometers
behind the Cultural Center, so take a taxi (F$2).
Food
Kumarans Restaurant (tel. 450-294; daily until
2000), across the highway from the Centra Resort
Pacific Harbor, has curry specials at lunchtime
(F$4-5), but the dinner menu is pricey (FS6-12).
The Oasis Restaurant (tel. 450-617; daily
0930-1500/1800-2230), in the Marketplace of
Fiji, has a sandwich (F$5), salad, and burger
(FS7.50) menu at lunchtime, and more sub-
stantial blackboard specials for dinner (FS15-30).
A pot of tea is FS2.50. Internet access here is
F$0.40 a minute, and a large selection of pa-
perbacks is for sale at F$3 a book.
Deuba Fast Food (Mon.-Sat. 0900-1700),
facing the highway near Rosie The Travel Ser-
vice in the Marketplace of Fiji, lists various over-
priced tourist dishes on their blackboard menu,
but you can also get cheaper sandwiches and
cold drinks.
There are four small grocery stores beside
Kumarans by the bridge at Pacific Harbor. For
fruit and vegetables you must go to Navua.
Health
Dr. Kamal Banerjee (tel. 460-950) has an after-
hours clinic above Kumarans Restaurant.
Transportation
Only group charter flights from Nadi Airport land
at Pacific Harbor's airstrip, but all of the Queens
Road express buses stop here. The express
bus to Pacific Harbor from Suva stops next to the
highway near the Centra Resort, a kilometer
from the Cultural Center. The slower Galoa
buses will stop right in front of the Cultural Cen-
ter itself (advise the driver beforehand).
The air-conditioned Queens Deluxe Coach
leaves from the front door of the Centra Resort
Pacific Harbor for Suva (F$7) at 1 100, for Nadi at
1700 (F$24). The air-conditioned Fiji Express
leaves the resort for Nadi at 0830 (F$26) and
for Suva at 1 61 5 (F$1 4). Much cheaper and just
as fast are the regular Pacific Transport express
buses, which stop on the highway: to Nadi Airport
at 0750, 0930, 1035, 1315, 1605, and 1835 (148
km, three hours, F$7.30); to Suva at 1015, 1 100,
1155, 1555, 1930, 2115 (49 km, one hour,
F$2.70). Sunbeam Transport buses to Lautoka
stop here at 1100, 1210, and 1415.
Rosie The Travel Service (tel. 450-655) in
the Marketplace of Fiji can make any required
hotel or tour bookings, and they also represent
Thrifty Rent-a-Car.
NAVUA
The bustling river town of Navua (pop. 4,500), 39
km west of Suva, is the market center of the
mostly Indian-inhabited rice-growing delta area
near the mouth of the Navua River. It's also the
headquarters of Serua and Namosi Provinces. If
low-grade copper deposits totaling 900 million
metric tons located just inland at Namosi are
ever developed, Navua will become a major
mining port, passed by four-lane highways, ore
conveyors, and a huge drain pipe for copper
tailings. For at least 30 years, millions of tons
of waste material will be dumped into the ocean
every year by an operation consuming more fos-
sil fuel energy than the rest of the country com-
bined. The present quiet road between Navua
and Suva will bustle with new housing estates
and heavy traffic, Fiji's social and environmental
balance will be turned on its head, and the
change from today will be total!
Transportation
All of the express buses between Suva and Nadi
stop at Navua. Large village boats leave from
the wharf beside Navua market for Beqa Island
Copyrighted material
182 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
south of Viti Levu daily except Sunday, but more
depart on Saturday (F$10 one-way). Smaller
flat-bottomed punts to Namuamua village, 25
km up the Navua River, depart on Thursday,
Friday, and Saturday afternoons (FS6 pp). You
can charter an outboard from Navua wharf to
Namuamua almost anytime at FS60 for the boat
round-trip. The hour-long ride takes you between
high canyon walls and over boiling rapids with
waterfalls on each side. Above Namuamua is
the fabulous Upper Navua, accessible only to in-
trepid river-runners in rubber rafts. It's also pos-
sible to reach the river by road at Nabukelevu.
River Tours
An easy way to experience the picturesque lower
Navua is with Discover Fiji Tours (Lionel Dan-
ford, P.O. Box 171, Navua; tel. 450-180, fax
450-549), which offers trips up the Navua River,
leaving Navua at 1030 daily and returning at
1630. They take you upriver to a waterfall by
motorized canoe. After a swim, you go to Na-
muamua village where you get a welcoming
The tortuous Navua River drains much of
central Viti Levu.
kava ceremony and lunch. In the afternoon you
float down the river on a bamboo raft (on Sunday
the village visit is replaced by a riverside pic-
nic). The cost is F$60 pp from Navua (minimum
of two). Call to arrange a pick-up at Pacific Har-
bor or meet them at their river base office in
Navua (open 0930-1 130, 1530-1700). Discov-
er Fiji also arranges stays in the Fijian villages of
this area at FS35 pp including all meals.
Wilderness Ethnic Adventure Fiji (P.O. Box
1389. Suva; tel. 315-730, fax 300-584) also runs
full-day motorized boat trips 20 km up the river
from Navua to Nukusere village, where lunch is
served and visitors get an introduction to Fijian
culture. Any travel agent in Suva can make the
bookings (adults F$69, children F$36). In Nadi,
book through Rosie The Travel Service (F$100
including lunch). Wilderness also has canoe and
rubber raft trips down the Navua River (F$83).
You must call ahead as they don't hang around
in Navua waiting for customers to appear.
In addition, Mr. Sakiusa Naivalu (tel. 460-641)
of Navua organizes upriver boat trips to Na-
muamua at FS65 pp with the possibility of spend-
ing the night there. Readers found Sakiusa's
tour "enjoyable."
The brochures of some of the Navua River
tour companies promise a kava ceremony and
other events, but these are only organized for
groups. If only a couple of you are going that day,
nothing much of the kind is going to happen. Ask
when booking, otherwise just relax and enjoy the
boat ride and scenery, and wait to see dancing at
the Cultural Center. And even if there is a cere-
mony, you may find sitting on the hard floor un-
comfortable. The bamboo raft trip may also be
shorter than you expected, and the climb to the
highest waterfall could be a strenuous. At some
point, you may be asked to make a "contribution"
to the village, and the ladies will display their
handicrafts in a manner that makes it difficult to
refuse to buy. Although this visit isn't for everyone,
it could also be the highlight of your trip. (If saving
money is a priority and you can get a small group
together, it's much cheaper to go to Navua by
public bus and hire a market boat from there.)
White-water Rafting
Exciting white-water rafting trips on the Upper
Navua River west of Namuamua are offered by
Rivers Fiji (P.O. Box 307, Deuba; tel. 450-147,
naterial
PACIFIC HARBOR AND VICINITY 183
THE LEGEND OF MAU
Long ago a group of mountain warriors moved
down to a coastal flatland. They built bure and
called their new home Mau. The warriors brought
with them many things, such as mountains, birds,
spnngs, prawns, and a natural pool with a wa-
terfall. Blessed by Mother Nature, they devel-
oped their culture. Today Mau is still set amidst
tall mountains and thick jungles. The forests are
full of tropical birds and beautiful flowers. A river
flows to mangroves by the sea. The people of
Mau reveal their ancient totems to guests, and
take them fishing and snorkeling on the coral
reefs. Visits that begin with a kava ceremony,
always end with a heartfelt farewell.
fax 450-148), with an office on the grounds of the
Centra Resort Pacific Harbor. You're driven over
the mountains to a remote spot near Nabukele-
vu where you get in a rubber raft and shoot
through the fantastic Upper Navua Gorge (in-
accessible by motorized boat). Experienced pad-
dlers can do the same on their own in an inflat-
able kayak, upon request. Due to the class III
rapids involved, children under 12 are not ac-
cepted, but for others it's F$160 including lunch.
Rivers Fiji also does a less strenuous run
down the Wainikoroiluva River north of Na-
muamua, on which it's possible to paddle your
own inflatable kayak. This costs F$140 for
adults, or F$70 for children under the age of 12
who are floating with a paying adult. Two days of
kayaking on the Wainikoroiluva is F$430. If
you're really keen, ask about overnight camping
expeditions on the Upper Wainikoroiluva. These
trips conclude with a motorized punt ride down
the Lower Navua Gorge from Namuamua to
Nakavu village, where you reboard the van to
your hotel.
Rivers Fiji also offers one-day sea kayaking
trips to Beqa Island (F$99 pp). You cross to
Beqa by catamaran, then explore a tiny unin-
habited island and paddle into Malumu Bay.
Deep inside this cliff-lined bay, hundreds of fruit
bats are seen clinging to the trees. A secret
mangrove tunnel provides an escape south to
the great blue beyond. A different trip takes you
along the coast of Viti Levu from Pacific Harbor
in a two-person sea kayak at FS65 pp. It's a
great way to explore the mangroves or glide
across the reefs. All prices above include pick-
ups around Pacific Harbor. Transfers from other
Coral Coast and Suva hotels are F$30 pp extra,
from Nadi F$45 extra.
Discover Fiji Tours (tel. 450-180) also does a
Wainikoroiluva River trip between Naqarawai and
Navunikabi villages, with white-water rafting,
swimming at a waterfall, and a long boat ride
down the river. It's FS 145/1 65 pp from Navua/Nadi
(two-person minimum).
Toward Suva
Mikaele Funaki (P.O. Box 14328, Suva; tel. 387-
951 or 381-391), "the master of eco-touring in
Fiji." can arrange village stays in Mau on the coast
east of Navua. A three-night Island Villages Con-
cept Tour to Mau will cost F$120 pp including
transportation, accommodation, meals, hiking,
and other activities. These trips generally set out
from Navua on Wednesdays at 1300, but you
must call ahead. Ifs a rare opportunity to go native.
The Ocean Pacific Club (P.O. Box 3323,
Lami; tel. 304-864), near Nabukavesi village on
a hillside between Navua and Suva, 3.5 km off
Queens Road (and 25 km west of Suva), has
eight duplex bungalows at F$55 single or double.
Copyrighted material
184 SOUTHERN VITI LEW
ISLANDS OFF SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
VATULELE ISLAND
This small island, 32 km south of Viti Levu. reach-
es a height of only 34 meters on its north end;
there are steep bluffs on the west coast and gen-
tle slopes facing a wide lagoon on the east. Both
passes into the lagoon are from its north end.
Five different levels of erosion are visible on the
cliffs from which the uplifted limestone was un-
dercut. There are also rock paintings, but no one
knows when they were executed. Vatulele today
is famous for its tapa cloth (masi).
Other unique features of 31-square-km Vat-
ulele are the sacred red prawns, which are found
in tidal pools at Korolamalama Cave at the foot of
a cliff near the island's rocky north coast. These
scarlet prawns with remarkably long antennae
are called ura buta, or cooked prawns, for their
color. The red color probably comes from iron
oxide in the limestone of their abode. It's strictly
tabu to eat them or remove them from the pools.
If you do, it will bring ill luck or even shipwreck.
The story goes that a princess of yesteryear re-
jected a gift of cooked prawns from a suitor and
threw them in the pools, where the boiled-red
creatures were restored to life. Villagers can call
the prawns by repeating a chant.
In 1990 Vatulele got its own luxury resort, the
Vatulele Island Resort {P.O. Box 9936, Nadi
Airport; tel. 720-300, fax 720-062) on the island's
west side. The 18 futuristic villas in a hybrid Fi-
jian/New Mexico style sit about 50 meters apart
on a magnificent white sand beach facing a pro-
tected lagoon. The emphasis is on luxurious ex-
clusivity: villas cost F$2,500 per couple a night,
including meals, alcohol, and tax. The minimum
stay is four nights, and to make the resort more
attractive to socialites, children are only accept-
ed during "family weeks" once or twice a year. To
preserve the natural environment, motorized
water sports and a swimming pool are not of-
fered, but there's lots to do, including sailing,
snorkeling, windsurfing, paddling, tennis, and
hiking, with guides and gear provided at no ad-
ditional cost. Other than airfare to the island (see
below), about the only things you'll be charged
extra for are scuba diving (F$1 50/225 for one/two
tanks) and massage (F$135 an hour). Vatulele's
new desalination plant ensures abundant fresh
water. This world-class resort is a creation of
Australian film producer Henry Crawford and
thus appeals to the show business set, as well as
upscale honeymooners (weddings arranged,
bring your own partner). At Nadi Airport, you'll
find them in office No. 15 upstairs from arrivals.
The 990 inhabitants live in four villages on the
east side of Vatulele. Village boats from Viti Levu
leave Paradise Point near Korolevu Post Office on
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday if the weather
is good. Resort guests arrive on a daily charter
flight from Nadi, which costs FS700 pp round-trip
(or F$2,000 for a special flight). The charters are
operated by Pacific Island Seaplanes (tel. 725-
644, fax 725-641), which uses a four-seat Beaver
seaplane able to land on the lagoon near the re-
sort. If weather conditions prevent use of the sea-
plane, a Twin Otter aircraft is sent. It lands on
the island's small private airstrip near the villages,
six km from Vatulele Resort.
YANUCA ISLAND
In 1994 a surfers' camp opened on a splendid
beach on Yanuca Island, to the west of Beqa
(not to be confused with the Yanuca Island on
which Shangri-La's Fijian Resort is found). Pe-
na's Resort (Ratu Penaia Drekeni, P.O. Box
39, Deuba; tel. 450-801), also known as Frigate
Surfriders, offers cots in two four-person dormi-
tory bure and five double tents at F$65 pp for
surfers, F$35 pp for nonsurfers, plus tax. In-
cluded are accommodations and all meals, wind-
surfing, surfing, and sportfishing. Boat transfers
are F$20 pp round-trip. We've heard that Pe-
na's camp is rather untidy and that the food is in-
adequate, but at least it's cheap.
A 10-minute walk from Frigate Surfriders is
a second surfing camp called Batiluva Beach
Resort (P.O. Box 149, Deuba; tel. 450-019 or
450-034, fax 450-067), which offers dormitory
accommodations at F$100 pp, or F$120 pp in a
bure — excellent value compared to places like
Namotu and Tavarua. Included are gourmet
meals, appetizers, kayaks, paddle boats, surfing,
Copyrighted material
ISLANDS OFF SOUTHERN VITI LEVU 185
snorkeling, village tours, and transfers. Fishing
and scuba diving are available at additional cost.
Batiluva is run by Americans Sharon Todd and
Dan Thorn, who've paid a high premium to the
landowners to be able operate here. Their boats
go to Frigate Passage every day (30-40 min-
utes away). In calm weather you can paddle
right around Yanuca in about 1 .5 hours using
one of the resort's single or double kayaks.
Batiluva's white sandy beach offers safe swim-
ming, and you can snorkel on the reefs off the
points. On weekends Suvasiders come over for
picnics, and the Pacific Harbor crowd often
comes for beach barbecues. During the sailing
season, yachts rock offshore.
The lefthander in Frigate Passage southwest
of Yanuca has been called the most underrated
wave in Fiji: "fast, hollow, consistent, and de-
serted." The Frigate Surfriders leaflet describes
it thus:
Frigate Passage, out on the western edge of
the Beqa Barrier Reef, is a sucking often bar-
reling photocopy of Cloudbreak near Nadi.
The wave comprises three sections that often
join up. The outside section presents a very
steep take-off as the swell begins to draw over
the reef. The wave then starts to bend and
you enter a long walled speed sect ton with
stand-up tubes. This leads to a pitching inside
section that breaks onto the reef and if your
timing is right you can backdoor this part
and kick out safely in deep water.
All surfing is banned on Sunday. Yet even without
the surfing, Yanuca is still well worth a visit (great
beach-based snorkeling). The resorts are across
the island from Yanuca's single Fijian village, a
ju-minuie waiK. bneiis, mats, ana necklaces can
be purchased from the locals. As at neighbor-
ing Beqa, Fijian firewalking is a tradition here.
Village boats to the one Fijian village on Yanuca
depart on Monday and Saturday afternoons from
the bridge near the Centra Resort (F$4 pp).
BEQA ISLAND
Beqa ("MBENG-ga") is the home of the famous
Fijian f irewalkers; Rukua, Naceva. and Dakuibeqa
are firewalking villages. Nowadays they perform
mostly at the hotels on Viti Levu, although the
local resorts occasionally stage a show. At low
tide you can hike part of the 27 km around the is-
land: Rukua to Waisomo and Dakuni to Nace-
va are not hard, but the section through Lalati
can be difficult. Malumu Bay. between the two
branches of the island, is thought to be a drowned
crater. Climb Korolevu (439 meters), the high-
est peak, from Waisomo or Lalati. Kadavu Is-
land is visible to the south of Beqa.
It's quite possible to stay in any of the Fijian vil-
lages on Beqa by following the procedure out-
lined in Staying in Villages in the main Introduc-
tion. Ask around the wharf at Navua around
noon any day except Sunday and you'll soon
find someone happy to take you. Alcohol is not
allowed in the villages on Beqa, so if you're
asked to buy a case of beer, politely decline and
offer to buy other groceries instead. The number
one beach is Lawaki to the west of Naceva. Pre-
sent the village chief of Naceva with a nice big
bundle of waka if you want to camp there.
Mikaele Funaki's Island and Village Con-
cept Tour (P.O. Box 14328, Suva; tel. 387-591
or 381-391 , fax 300-945) organizes homestays
at Naceva, home of the traditional firewalking
priest of the Kulu clan, Naiseuseu. or another
village on Beqa. The three-night tour is F$1 30 pp
including food and shared accommodations,
local sightseeing and snorkeling tours, and return
0
© DAVID STANLEY
Copyrighted material
186 SOUTHERN VITI LEVU
boat transfers from Navua. The packages begin
from Navua every Tuesday and Friday at 1 300.
Call for information. Mikaele can also arrange
"original" firewalking tours to Naceva for groups
of 30 or more if given at least five days notice.
Picnics on Stewart Island in the Beqa Lagoon are
also possible. According to him, "this tour has
been a sizzling experience for frugal travelers."
The Martin Bay Resort (P.O. Box 1 12, Deuba;
tel. 304-042, fax 304-028) opened in 1991 on a
golden beach between Raviravi and Rukua vil-
lages on the west side of Beqa. The 16 bure go
for F$420 single or double, FS500 triple. The five-
star meal plan is F$125 pp a day (no cooking fa-
cilities). There's a swimming pool. Most guests are
scuba divers who come to dive the Beqa Lagoon,
and it's worth noting the some famous dive sites
like Golden Arch and Side Streets are on the
west side of the reef and almost as far from the
Marlin Bay Resort as they are from Pacific Harbor.
They will take you there, however. It's F$180 for a
two-tank boat dive (plus F$68 for equipment, if re-
quired). Unlimited shore diving is free. Surfing
runs to Frigate Pass are arranged at F$160 pp for
two sessions. The Marlin Bay boat picks up
guests at a support base across the river from
the Centra Resort Pacific Harbor, and these trans-
fers cost F$1 15 round-trip.
The new Lalati Resort (P.O. Box 166, Deuba;
tel. 472-033, fax 472-034), at the north opening
of Malamu Bay, has five deluxe bure at
F$875/1, 100/1 ,465 single/double/triple includ-
ing three gourmet meals, a two-tank dive, surfing,
kayaking, windsurfing, and transfers from Pa-
cific Harbor. Lalati has cast itself as an upscale
sports resort with gourmet meals and spacious
accommodations.
The 65 km of barrier reef around the 390-
square-km Beqa Lagoon features multicolored
soft corals and fabulous sea fans at Side Streets,
and an exciting wall and big fish at Cutter Pas-
sage. Aside from its surfing potential, Frigate
Passage on the west side of the barrier reef is
one of the top scuba diving sites near Suva. A
vigorous tidal flow washes in and out of the pas-
sage, which attracts large schools of fish, and
there are large coral heads. Sulfur Passage on
the east side of Beqa is equally good.
The golden cowry (Cypraea aurantium), which the
Fijians call bull kula. is one of the rarest of all seashells.
On important ceremonial occasions, a high chief would
wear the shell pendant around his neck as a symbol
of the highest authority.
SUVA AND VICINITY 187
SUVA AND VICINITY
The pulsing heart of the South Pacific, Suva is
the largest and most cosmopolitan city in Ocea-
nia. The port is always jammed with ships bring-
ing goods and passengers from far and wide,
and busloads of commuters and enthusiastic
visitors constantly stream through the busy mar-
ket bus station. In the business center there are
Indo-Fijian women in saris, large sturdy choco-
late-skinned Fijians, expat Australians and New
Zealanders in shorts and knee socks, and wavy-
haired Polynesians from Rotuma and Tonga.
Suva squats on a hilly peninsula between Lau-
cala Bay and Suva Harbor in the southeast cor-
ner of Viti Levu. The verdant mountains north
and west catch the southeast trades, producing
damp conditions year-round. Visitors sporting
sunburns from Fiji's western sunbelt resorts may
appreciate Suva's warm tropical rains (which fall
mostly at night). In 1870 the Polynesia Company
sent Australian settlers to camp along mosquito-
infested Nubukalou Creek on land obtained from
High Chief Cakobau. When efforts to grow sug-
arcane in the area failed, the company convinced
the British to move their headquarters here, and
since 1 882 Suva has been the capital of Fiji.
Today this exciting multiracial city of 170,000 —
a fifth of Fiji's total population and half the urban
SUVA AND I
VICINITY
O C E A N
»
•
e
* •
«. »
C J
O DAVID STANLEY
188 SUVA AND VICINITY
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 189
population — is also about the only place in Fiji
where you'll see a building taller than a palm
tree. High-rise office buildings and hotels over-
look the compact downtown area. The British
left behind imposing colonial buildings, wide
avenues, and manicured parks as evidence of
their rule. The Fiji School of Medicine, the Uni-
versity of the South Pacific, the Fiji Institute of
Technology, the Pacific Theological College,
the Pacific Regional Seminary, and the head-
quarters of many regional organizations and
diplomatic missions have been established
here. In addition, the city offers some of the
hottest nightlife between Kings Cross (Sydney)
and North Beach (San Francisco), plus shop-
ping, sightseeing, and many good-value places
to stay and eat. About the only thing Suva lacks
is a beach.
Keep in mind that on Sunday most shops are
be closed, restaurants keep reduced hours, and
fewer taxis or buses are on the road. In short, the
city is very quiet — a good time to wander around
in relative peace. If you decide to catch the Friday
or Saturday bus/boat service to Levuka and
spend the weekend there, book your ticket a
day or two in advance. Otherwise, it's worth
dressing up and attending church to hear the
marvelous choral singing. Most churches have
services in English, but none compare with the
1000 Fijian service at Centenary Methodist
Church on Stewart Street.
The lovely Isa Lei, a Fijian song of farewell,
tells of a youth whose love sails off and leaves
him alone in Suva, smitten with longing.
SIGHTS
Central Suva
Suva's colorful municipal market, the largest
retail produce market in the Pacific, is a good
place to dabble. If you're a yachtie or backpacker,
you'll be happy to hear that the market overflows
with fresh produce of every kind. Bundles of kava
roots are sold, and liquid kava is consumed, at
yaqona dens upstairs in the market. On the street
outside, Fijian women sell fresh pineapple and
guava juice from glass "fish tank" containers.
From the market, walk south on Scott Street to
the Fiji Visitors Bureau in a former customs
house (1912) opposite Suva's General Post Of-
fice. At the comer of Thomson and Pier Streets
opposite the visitors bureau is the onetime Gar-
rick Hotel (1914) with a Sichuan Chinese restau-
rant behind the wrought-iron balconies upstairs.
Go east on Thomson to the picturesque colo-
nial-style arcade (1919) along Nubukalou
Creek, a campsite of Suva's first European set-
tlers. The empty block behind the arcade is the
site of a former Morris Hedstrom store, which
burned in late 1998.
Cumming Street, Suva's main shopping area,
runs east from the park by the bridge over the
creek. Suva's original vegetable market was
here until it moved to its present location just
prior to World War II. During the war Cumming
HANNAH DUDLEY'S LEGACY
One of the few Methodist missionaries to achieve
lasting success proselytizing among Fiji's Indi-
an community was an Englishwoman named
Hannah Dudley who had previously worked in
India where she learned Hindustani. An individ-
ualist unwilling to follow the usual rules for white
evangelists laid down by the male-managed mis-
sion of her day, "our Miss Dudley" (as her fellow
missionaries called her) arrived in Suva in 1903 to
work among the indentured Indian laborers. Han-
nah adopted vegetarianism as a step toward
godliness and visited the Hindu and Muslim
women in their own homes as only a woman
could. Through the woman and men she made
contact with, and her Bible classes, she soon
created a circle of Indian converts in Suva.
Although conditions for the Indians of her day
were harsh, Hannah didn't protest to the colo-
nial authorities as some other Methodist mis-
sionaries had, but gathered the needy and lost
around her. Her own home became an orphan-
age and her Indian contacts and converts soon
came to know her as mataji, the little mother.
When Hannah returned to Calcutta in 1905 to
work with the Bengali Mission, she took her or-
phans along. In 1934 members of the Indian
Methodist congregation in Suva erected the Dud-
ley Memorial Church on the spot where Hannah
first preached. The cream building, strongly in-
fluenced by Hindu architecture with its domes
and central Moorish arch, can still be seen at the
comer of Toorak Road and Amy Street, just up
the hill from downtown Suva.
Copyrighted material
190 SUVA AND VICINITY
Street became a market of a different sort as
Allied troops flocked here in search of evening
entertainment, and since the early 1960s dim-
ming has served tourists and locals alike in its
present form. To continue your walk, turn right on
Renwick Road and head back into town.
At the junction of Renwick Road, Thomson
Street, and Victoria Parade is a small park known
as The Triangle with five concrete benches and
a white obelisk bearing four inscriptions: "Cross
and Cargill first missionaries arrived 1 4th Octo-
ber 1835; Fiji British Crown Colony 10th October
1874; Public Land Sales on this spot 1880; Suva
proclaimed capital 1882." Inland a block on Pratt
Street is the Catholic cathedral (1902) built of
sandstone imported from Sydney. Australia. Be-
tween The Triangle and the cathedral is the tow-
ering Reserve Bank of Fiji (1984), which is
worth entering to see the currency exhibition
(Mon.-Fri. 0900-1600).
Return to Suva's main avenue, Victoria Pa-
rade, and walk south past Sukuna Park, the site
of pro-democracy demonstrations in 1990 and
again very recently. Farther along are the colo-
nial-style Fintel Building (1926), nerve center
of Fiji's international telecommunications links,
the picturesque Queen Victoria Memorial Hall
(1904), later Suva Town Hall and now the Ming
Palace Restaurant, and the City Library (1909),
which opened in 1909 thanks to a grant from
American philanthropist Andrew Carnegie (one of
2,509 public library buildings Carnegie gave to
communities in the English-speaking world). All of
these sights are on your right.
South Suva
Continue south on Victoria Parade past the
headquarters of the Native Land Trust Board,
which administers much of Fiji's land on behalf of
indigenous landowners. Just beyond and across
the street from the Holiday Inn Suva is Suva's
largest edifice, the imposing Government Build-
ings (1939), once the headquarters of the British
colonial establishment in the South Pacific. A
statue of Chief Cakobau stares thoughtfully at the
building. Here on May 14, 1987 Col. Sitiveni
Rabuka carried out the South Pacific's first mili-
tary coup and for the next five years Fiji had no
representative government. The chamber from
which armed soldiers abducted the parliamen-
tarians is now used by the supreme court, ac-
cessible from the parking lot behind the building.
Prime Minister Timoci Bavadra and the others
were led out through the doors below the build-
ing's clock tower (now closed) and forced into the
back of army trucks waiting on Gladstone Road.
The main facade of the Government Build-
ings faces Albert Park, where aviator Charles
Kingsford Smith landed his trimotor Fokker VII-
3M on June 6, 1928 after arriving from Hawaii on
the first-ever flight from California to Australia.
(The first commercial flight to Fiji was a Pan Am
flying boat, which landed in Suva Harbor in Oc-
tober 1941 .) Facing the west side of the park is
the elegant. Edwardian-style Grand Pacific
Hotel, built by the Union Steamship Company in
1914 to accommodate its transpacific passen-
gers. The 75 rooms were designed to appear
as shipboard staterooms, with upstairs pas-
sageways surveying the harbor, like the prome-
nade deck of a ship. For decades the Grand Pa-
cific was the social center of the city, but it has
been closed since 1992. The building is owned
by the phosphate-rich Republic of Nauru, and
ambitious redevelopment plans have been an-
nounced more than once, but as yet nothing has
come of them.
South of Albert Park are the pleasant Thurs-
ton Botanical Gardens, opened in 1913. where
tropical flowers such as cannas and plumbagos
blossom. The original Fijian village of Suva once
stood on this site. (It's fun to observe the young
Indo-Fijian couples enjoying brief moments away
from the watchful eyes of their families.) On the
grounds of the gardens is a clock tower dating
from 1918, and the Fiji Museum (P.O. Box
4
material
SUVA AND VICINITY 191
2023, Government Buildings, Suva; tel. 315-
944, fax 305-143), founded in 1904 and the old-
est in the South Pacific. The first hall deals in
archaeology, with much information about Fiji's
unique pottery. The centerpiece is a double-
hulled canoe made in 1913. plus five huge drua
steering oars each originally held by four men.
several large sail booms, and a bamboo house
raft (bilibili). The cannibal forks near the entrance
are fascinating, as are the whale tooth neck-
laces and the large collection of Fijian war clubs
and spears. The history gallery beyond the mu-
seum shop has a rich collection of 19th-century
exhibits with items connected with the many
peoples who have come to Fiji, including Ton-
gans, Europeans, and Solomon Islanders. Notice
the rudder from HMS Bounty. An air-conditioned
room upstairs contains an exhibition of tapa cloth
and displays on Indo-Fijians. The museum shop
sells copies of the museum journal, Domodomo,
plus other interesting books. Visiting hours are
Monday-Friday 0930-1600, Saturday and Sun-
day 0930-1330, admission F$3.30. It's one of Fi-
ji's top sights and not to be missed.
South of the gardens is the Presidential
Palace, formerly called Government House, the
residence of the British governors of Fiji. The
original building, erected in 1882, burned after
being hit by lightning in 1 921 . The present edifice,
which dates from 1 928, is a replica of the for-
mer British governor's residence in Colombo,
Sri Lanka. The grounds cannot be visited.
From the seawall south of Government House
you get a good view across Suva Harbor to Beqa
Island (to the left) and the dark, green moun-
tains of eastern Viti Levu punctuated by Joske's
Thumb, a high volcanic plug (to the right). Follow
the seawall south past a few old colonial build-
ings, and turn left onto Ratu Sukuna Road, the
first street after the Police Academy.
About a kilometer up this road is the Parlia-
ment of Fiji (1992), an impressive, traditional-
style building with an orange pyramid-shaped
roof. The main entrance is around the corner
off Vuna Road. Thirteen huge tapa banners hang
from the walls, and skillfully plaited coconut fiber
ropes from the Lau Group and a pair of tabuas
complete the decor. The location is spectacu-
lar with scenic sea and mountain views.
From May 19 to July 13, 2000, Fiji's prime
minister and several dozen members of parlia-
ment were held hostage in the parliamentary
complex by a gang of rebel soldiers and thugs
led by bankrupt businessman George Speight,
who claimed his coup attempt was in defense of
indigenous Fijian rights. Although the hostages
were eventually released, Speight's shameful
acts have left Fiji without a constitution or elect-
ed government. Stolen during the occupation
was the parliamentary mace, Chief Cakobau's
historic war club originally presented to Queen
Victoria and later returned to Fiji by Britain.
Both Protestants and Catholics have their
most important regional training facilities for min-
isters and priests in South Suva, and the Pacif-
ic Theological College is just down Vuna Road
from Parliament. From Suva Point nearby you
get a good view of Nukulau, a tiny reef island
southeast of Suva. This was the site of the resi-
dence of the first U.S. consul to Fiji, John Brown
Williams, and the burning of Williams's house
on July 4, 1849, set in motion a chain of events
that led to Fiji becoming a British colony. Later
Nukulau was used as the government quarantine
station, and most indentured Indian laborers
spent their first two weeks in Fiji here. Until re-
cently it was a public park, but since July 27,
2000, coup leader George Speight and a dozen
close associates have been imprisoned here.
From Suva Point it's a good idea to catch a
taxi to the University of the South Pacific (F$2).
The Nasese bus does a scenic loop through the
beautiful garden suburbs of South Suva: just
flag it down if you need a ride back to the market
(F$0.50).
University of the South Pacific
A frequent bus from in front of the Vanua Ar-
cade near the Bank of Hawaii on Victoria Pa-
rade brings you directly to the University of the
South Pacific (ask the driver to let you know
where to get off). Founded in 1968, this beautiful
72.8-hectare campus on a hilltop overlooking
Laucala Bay is jointly owned by 12 Pacific coun-
tries. Although over 70 percent of the almost
4,500 full-time and more than 7,500 part-time
students are from Fiji, the rest are on scholar-
ships from every corner of the Pacific.
The site of the USP's Laucala Campus was a
Royal New Zealand Air Force seaplane base
before the land was turned over to the USP. As
you enter from Laucala Bay Road you pass the
Copyrighted material
192 SUVA AND VICINITY
Fiji's emerald green
banded iguana is the
most striking reptile of
the Pacific.
Botanical Garden (free) on the right, then the
British-built Administration Building on the left.
Next comes the $3.5-million University Library,
erected in 1988 with Australian aid. The design
of the Student Union Building (1975), just
across a wooden bridge behind the library, was
influenced by traditional Pacific building motifs of
interlocking circles. The pleasant canteen in the
Student Union (open Mon.-Fri. 0800-1600. Sat.
0800-1300, with longer hours during the school
year) is a nice place to stop for a coffee.
Several buildings south of this, past the ANZ
Bank and the university bookstore, is a tradi-
tional Fijian bure called the Vale ni Bose. which
is used for workshops and seminars. To the left
of the bure is the Oceania Center for Arts and
Culture, the university's art gallery (free) with a
curvilinear mosaic floor. The center's director is
the famous Tongan novelist Epeli Hau'ofa. To
the right of (and behind) the bure is the Insti-
tute of Pacific Studies (P.O. Box 1 168, Suva;
tel. 212-332), housed in the former RNZAF offi-
cers' mess. This Institute is a leading publisher of
insightful books written by Pacific islanders;
these books may be perused and purchased at
their bookroom inside the building.
Students from outside the Pacific islands pay
F$8,900 tuition to take five courses at the USP.
Room and board are available at F$4,400 a year,
and books will run another F$750. There are
academic minimum-entry requirements and ap-
plications must be received by December 31 for
the following term. The two semesters are late
February to the end of June, and late July until the
end of November. Many courses in the social
sciences have a high level of content pertaining
to Pacific culture, and postgraduate studies in a
growing number of areas are available. Check the
university's website for more information.
The USP is always in need of qualified staff, so
if you're from a university milieu and looking for
a chance to live in the South Seas, this could
be it. If your credentials are impeccable you
should write to the registrar from home. On the
spot it's better to talk to a department head about
his/her needs before going to see the registrar.
Northwest of Suva
The part of Suva north of Walu Bay accommo-
dates much of Suva's shipping and industry. Carl-
ton Brewery on Foster Road cannot be visited.
About 600 meters beyond the brewery is the vin-
tage Suva Prison (1913), a fascinating colonial
structure with high walls and barbed wire. Plans to
replace this anachronism with a more modern
facility have been on the back burner for years.
One look at this place and you'll be a law-abiding
citizen for the rest of your stay in Fiji! Opposite the
naterial
SUVA AND VICINITY 193
prison is the Royal Suva Yacht Club, where you
can sign in and buy a drink, meet some yachties,
and maybe find a boat to crew on. In the pic-
turesque Suva Cemetery, just to the north, the Fi-
jian graves are wrapped in colorful sulus and tapa
cloth, and make good subjects for photographers.
The graves are often dug by inmates from the
nearby jail, a common practice in Fiji.
Catch one of the frequent Shore, Lami, or
Galoa buses west on Queens Road, past Su-
vavou village, home of the Suva area's original
Fijian inhabitants, and past Lami town to the
Raffles Tradewinds Hotel, seven km from the
market. Many cruising yachts tie up here, and the
view of the Bay of Islands from the hotel is good.
Orchid Island
Seven km northwest of Suva is the Orchid Is-
land Cultural Center (P.O. Box 1018, Suva;
tel. 361-128). In the past it offered a good syn-
opsis of Fijian customs through demonstrations,
dancing, and historical exhibits, affording a
glimpse into traditions such as the kava cere-
mony, tapa and pottery making, etc. At the minia-
ture zoo you could see and photograph Fiji's
rare banded iguanas and snakes up close. Repli-
cas of a Fijian war canoe and thatched temple
(bure kalou) were on the grounds. We've used
the past tense here because Orchid Island has
gone downhill and now looks abandoned, al-
though some readers report being admitted and
shown around the empty, decaying buildings by
residual staff who were only too happy to pock-
et their F$10 pp admission fee. You might call
ahead (and don't bother going on a Sunday).
The Shore and Galoa buses pass this way.
Colo-i-Suva Forest Park
This lovely park, at an altitude of 122-183 me-
ters, offers 6.5 km of trails through the lush forest
flanking the upper drainage area of Waisila
Creek. The mahogany trees you see here are
natives of Central America and were planted
after the area was logged in the 1 950s. The park
first opened in 1973. Enter from the Forestry
Station along the Falls Trail. A half-kilometer na-
ture trail begins near the Upper Pools, and aside
from waterfalls and natural swimming pools there
are thatched pavilions with tables at which to
picnic. With the lovely green forests behind Suva
in full view, this is one of the most breathtaking
places in all of Fiji and you may spot a few native
butterflies, birds, reptiles, and frogs. The park
is so unspoiled it s hard to imagine you're only 1 1
km from Suva. Surprisingly few tourists man-
age to visit.
The park (tel. 320-211 or 322-311) is open
daily 0800-1600, and there's a F$5 pp entry fee
(under age 1 2 F$1 . under six free) to cover main-
tenance and management. Security has im-
A good cross section of
Fiji's flora can be seen
in Colo-i-Suva Forest
Park near Suva.
194 SUVA AND VICINITY
proved since a police post was set up opposite
Raintree Lodge, but you must still keep an eye
on your gear if you go swimming in the pools
(valuables can be left at the park office). Colo-i-
Suva is easily accessible on the Sawani or Serea
buses (FS0.75), which leave from Lane No. 3
at Suva Bus Station every hour (Sunday every
two hours). A 22-seater minibus (F$1.35) also
operates and is much faster than the regular
buses. It picks up passengers from a different
part of Suva Bus Station— ask the drivers of the
Nausori minibuses parked on the corner clos-
est to the market. The last bus back to Suva is
around 1 800. A taxi will be F$8. Make a circle trip
of it by catching a bus from the park on to Nau-
sori, rather than returning directly to Suva. And
try to come on a dry day as it's even rainier than
Suva and the creeks are prone to flooding.
Also consider spending the night at Raintree
Lodge, 50 meters from the entrance to the park
(see Accommodations for details). Lunch and
drinks can be ordered at the lodge's attractive
restaurant/bar (tel. 320-562), which overlooks
a small lake.
On your way back to Suva from Colo-i-Suva
ask the bus driver to drop you at Wailoku Road,
just past the Fiji School of Medicine in Tamavua
Heights. Every half hour the Wailoku bus runs
down the hill: stay on till the bus stops and turns
around, then continue down the road a few hun-
dred meters to a bridge. Take the trail on the left
just across the bridge and hike about five minutes
upstream to Wailoku Falls, where you can swim
in a deep pool of cold, clear water amid the idyl-
lic verdant vegetation. This nice picnic spot is
on government land and no admission is
charged. (There's no security here, so don't cany
any valuables.) The nearby Wailoku Settlement
is inhabited by descendants of blackbirded
Solomon Islanders. If you only want to visit the
falls, look for the Wailoku bus at the harbor end of
Lane No. 2 at the market bus station.
Hiking
For a bird's-eye view of Suva and the entire sur-
rounding area, spend a morning climbing to the
volcanic plug atop Mt. Korobaba (429 meters),
the highest peak around. Take a Shore bus to
COLO-I-SUVA FOREST PARK
FORtSTRV
To STATION
vSawan
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 195
the cement factory beyond the Tradewinds Hotel
at Lami, then follow the dirt road past the factory
up into the foothills. After about 45 minutes on the
main track, you'll come to a fork just after a sharp
descent. Keep left and cross a small stream.
Soon after, the track divides again. Go up on
the right and look for a trail straight up to the
right where the tracks rejoin. It's a 10-minute
scramble to the summit from here. A guide would
be helpful.
There's a far more challenging climb to the
top of Joske's Thumb, a volcanic plug 15 km
west of Suva. Take a bus to Naikorokoro Road,
then walk inland 30 minutes to where the road
turns sharply right and crosses a bridge. Follow
the track straight ahead and continue up the
river till you reach a small village. Request per-
mission of the villagers to proceed. From the vil-
lage to the Thumb will take just under three
hours, and a guide would be advisable. The last
bit is extremely steep, and ropes may be nec-
essary. It even took Sir Edmund Hillary two tries
to climb the Thumb.
Sports and Recreation
Beqa Divers (P.O. Box 777, Suva; tel. 361-088,
fax 361-047), 75 Marine Dr., opposite the Lami
Shopping Center, is the country's oldest dive
shop (established as Scubahire by Dave and
Lorraine Evans in 1970). Their four-day PADI
certification course (FS495) involves six boat
dives and Fiji's only purpose-built diver training
pool is on their Lami premises. You'll need to
show a medical certificate proving you're fit for
diving. An introductory dive is F$154. Beqa
Divers arranges full-day diving trips to the Beqa
Lagoon from their Pacific Harbor base for FS143,
including two tanks, weight beft, backpack, and
lunch. Other equipment can be rented. Beqa
Divers will also take snorkelers out on their full-
day dive trips for F$66 pp, snorkeling gear and
lunch included. When things are slow they may
offer a "special" reduced rate for the all-day
scuba trip, if you ask. All diving is out of Pacific
Harbor— the Suva office only takes bookings,
does certification courses, and sells equipment.
In past they've provided free dormitory accom-
modations to backpackers taking a course or
diving with them.
Dive Center Ltd. (P.O. Box 3066, Lami; tel.
300-599. fax 302-639), 4 Matua St., Walu Bay
(opposite Budget Rent-a-Car), rents scuba gear
(including tanks) at daily and weekly rates, and
also fills tanks.
Surfers should call Matthew Light (tel. 998-
830), who runs a shuttle out to Sandspit Light-
house where there s good surfing on a south-
west swell at high tide (F$20 pp round-trip). He
picks up at the Raffles Tradewinds Hotel in Lami.
At the 18-hole, par-72 Fiji Golf Club (tel. 382-
872), 15 Rifle Range Rd., Vatuwaqa, the course
record is 65. Green fees are F$1 5720 for nine/1 8
holes, club hire F$20 for a full set. plus trolley hire
at F$3. Call ahead to ask if any competitions
are scheduled as the course may be closed to
the public at those times. Don't carry large
amounts of cash or valuables with you around
the course.
The Olympic Swimming Pool, 224 Victoria
Parade, charges FS1.10 admission. It's open
Monday-Friday 1000-1800, Saturday 0800-1800
(April-September), or Monday-Friday 0900-
1900, Saturday 0600-1900 (October-March).
Lockers are available.
The Fijians are a very muscular, keenly athletic
people who send champion teams far and wide
in the Pacific. You can see rugby (April-Sep-
tember) and soccer (March-October) on Satur-
day afternoons at 1400 at the National Stadium
near the University of the South Pacific. Rugby
and soccer are also played at Albert Park on
Saturday, and you could also see a cricket game
here (mid-October to Easter). Soccer is also
played on Sunday (but rugby is only on Satur-
day). The National Stadium will host the 2003
South Pacific Games.
ACCOMMODATIONS
There's a wide variety of places to stay, and the
low-budget accommodations can be neatly di-
vided into two groups. The places on the south
side of the downtown area near Albert Park are
mostly decent and provide communal cooking fa-
cilities to bona fide travelers. However, some of
those northeast of downtown are dicey and cater
mostly to "short-time" guests; few of these both-
er providing cooking facilities. Many of the medi-
um-priced hotels and self-catering apartments
are along Gordon Street and its continuation,
MacGregor Road. If you want to spend some
Copyrighted material
196 SUVA AND VICINITY
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 197
time in Suva to take advantage of the city's good
facilities and varied activities, look for something
with cooking facilities and weekly rates.
Your best bet if you want to go upmarket are
the Southern Cross, Berjaya, and Peninsula In-
ternational hotels, all within minutes of one an-
other along Gordon Street. You can save money
by calling ahead to all three to inquire about that
day's "local rate," then take a taxi to the place of
your choice. When things are slow, the recep-
tionist may also agree to upgrade you to deluxe
at no additional charge if you agree to stay for a
few nights. Of course, these deals don't apply to
overseas bookings.
Under US$25 South
The 42-room South Seas Private Hotel (P.O.
Box 2086, Government Buildings, Suva; tel. 312-
296), 6 Williamson Rd., one block east of Albert
Park, really conveys the flavor in its name. The
building originally housed workers involved in
laying the first telecommunications cable across
the Pacific, and until 1983 it served as a girl's
hostel. Things changed when backpackers took
over the dormitories (and break-ins through the
floorboards by amorous young men came to an
end). Today you can get a bed in a five-bed
dorm for F$1 1 , a fan-cooled room with shared
bath at F$1 9/26 single/double, or a better room
with private bath at F$40 double — good value.
You'll receive a F$1 discount if you have a youth
hostel, VIP, or Nomads card. This quiet hotel
has a pleasant veranda and a large communal
kitchen that may be used 0700-2000 only. For a
refundable F$10 deposit, you may borrow a
plate, mug, knife, fork, and spoon, but there's a
longstanding shortage of pots and pans (blankets
in the rooms are also in short supply). It's possi-
ble to leave excess luggage at the South Seas
for free while you're off visiting other islands,
but lock your bag securely with a padlock that
can't be picked. The staff changes money at
bank rates. Catch a taxi here from the market the
first time (F$2).
Travel Inn (P.O. Box 2086, Government Build-
ings, Suva; tel. 304-254), an older two-story build-
ing at 1 9 Gorrie St., is owned by the same com-
pany as the South Seas Private Hotel. There are
16 fan-cooled rooms with shared bath at FS22/30
single/double, all with access to communal cook-
ing facilities, and four self-contained apartments
for F$49 triple daily (F$12 extra for a fourth per-
son). A small discount is offered to youth hos-
tel, VIP, and Nomads card holders. There are
plenty of blankets and good locks on the doors.
Visitors from other Pacific islands often stay here,
as this is one of Suva's better buys.
For a low-budget apartment with fan try Pen-
der Court (P.O. Box 14590, Suva; tel. 314-992),
31 Pender Street. The 13 studios with kitch-
enettes begin at FS35 single or double (10 per-
cent reduction by the week), and there are also
six one-bedroom apartments with kitchens for
F$45. It's sometimes a little noisy, and usually full.
Suva's original backpacker's oasis is the Co-
conut Inn (P.O. Box 14598, Suva; tel. SOS-
SSI), 8 Kimberly St., which charges F$9 per
bunk in the two four-bed dormitories. The four
private rooms with shared bath are F$20/25
single/double, and a small flat upstairs with pri-
vate bath is F$40 for up to three. The Inn of-
fers cooking facilities and luggage storage (def-
initely, watch your gear). It's convenient to town
and right on the fringe of the nightclub quarter
(ask what time they lock the door if you might be
returning late). It's far less crowded now than it
was back in the days when it was the only cheap
place to stay, and some of the long-term resi-
dents are real characters.
The high-rise YWCA (P.O. Box 534, Suva;
tel. 304-829, fax 303-004) on Sukuna Park has
two singles and one double available for female
foreign visitors only (F$10 pp).
Under US$25 Northeast
Certainly the nicest budget place in this area is
Colonial Lodge (tel. 300-655), 19 Anand Street.
This old wooden house on a side street near town
has two fan-cooled rooms with mosquito net and
shared bath at F$35/45 single/double. The large
open dormitory downstairs is FS15.50 pp. All
rates include a full cooked breakfast (one of the
best in Fiji); a good dinner is FS6.60. The large sit-
ting room and terrace upstairs make this a very
pleasant place to stay. It's run by Susie, daughter
of Emosi of Leleuvia Island, and her husband
Joe, who works at Colo-i-Suva Forest Park.
An alley at the end of Anand Street leads
straight up to Annandale Apartments (P.O. Box
12818. Suva; tel. 31 1-054), 265 Waimanu Road
opposite the Oceanview Hotel. The 12 spacious
two-bedroom apartments are F$45/280/800 a
Copyrighted material
198 SUVA AND VICINITY
day/week/month for up to three or four people.
A fridge, kitchen, sitting room, and balcony are
provided in each. It's one of the best deals up
this way.
The colorful, 44-room Oceanview Hotel (P.O.
Box 16037, Suva; tel. 312-129), 270 Waimanu
Rd., has two singles at F$15, 33 doubles at
F$25. and nine four-person family rooms at
FS35. It has a pleasant hillside location, but avoid
the noisy rooms over the reception area and
bar. The new management has tried to clean
the place up, and security has improved. It's
one of the only lowlife" hotels in this area with
any atmosphere.
If your main interest is Suva's seedier side,
two sleazy establishments are just down Robert-
son Road from the Oceanview. The 15-room
Motel Crossroad (tel. 300-089), 124 Robertson
Rd., is cheap at F$20 single or double, but only
hookers and johns ever stay there. Similar is the
23-room Motel Capitol (tel. 313-246), 91 Robert-
son Rd., with seven rooms with shared bath at
F$18 single or double, and 16 with private bath at
F$20-30.
It's hard to place the clientele at Saf's Apart-
ment Hotel (Safique Mohd, P.O. Box 3985,
Samabula; tel. 301-849). on Robertson between
the Crossroad and Capitol. The 40 bare rooms
with bath are F$25 single or double downstairs,
F$35 upstairs, or F$45 with TV and cooking fa-
cilities (F$10 extra for a/c). A bed in an eight-
bed dorm is F$7 pp. There are nice views from
the upper balconies of this three-story concrete
building, but it's noisy and security could be a
concern.
Just up Waimanu Road from the Oceanview is
the 1 4- room New Haven Motel (P.O. Box 992,
Suva; tel. 315-220), which is rather dirty and
used mostly for one purpose. It's F$25 single
or double upstairs for all night or F$10 down-
stairs for a short time.
In contrast to the places just mentioned. Motel
6 Apartments (P.O. Box 143, Suva; tel. 307-
477, fax 307-133), 1 Walu St. off Waimanu Road,
is one of Suva's best deals. Of the 16 clean,
comfortable a/c rooms, the eight with fridge only
are F$44 single or double, while those with a
balcony, cooking facilities, and a separate bed-
room are F$77. All rooms have regular TV, but if
you want Sky TV it's F$10 extra. There's a swim-
ming pool and the balconies have an excellent
view of Walu Bay. Motel 6 only opened in 1999,
and while these prices last it's a bargain.
Up the hill beyond the hospital is the two-story
Outrigger Hotel (P.O. Box 750, Suva; tel. 314-
944, fax 302-944), near the hospital at 349
Waimanu Road. The 20 a/c rooms with bath
and fridge are F$49/54 single/double. Most of
the rooms have a good view of Suva Harbor.
There's a pizza restaurant on the roof (pizzas
FS6-13). Unfortunately, feedback about the Out-
rigger is mixed (and it has no connection with
the Hawaiian Outrigger chain).
The Tanoa House Private Hotel (P.O. Box
704, Suva; tel. 381-575), 5 Princes Rd. in Sam-
abula South, is a totally respectable guesthouse
run by Brian, an ex-colonial from the Gilberts.
Tropical gardens surround this old wooden build-
ing near the Australian High Commission. If
you're nostalgic for times past, you'll like the at-
mosphere and you'll meet genuine island char-
acters. The 1 1 rooms with shared bath are
F$20730735 single/double/triple; breakfast is F$5
extra, and other meals are available. It's across
from the Fiji Institute of Technology near the
end of Waimanu Road, too far to walk from
downtown, but you can get there easily on the
Samabula bus (or take a taxi).
Back down near the center of town, the Kings
Suva Hotel (P.O. Box 15748, Suva; tel. 304-
41 1 ) on Waimanu Road is rough, with four rowdy
bars and more tramps than travelers. The 27
rooms are F$15/20 single/double without bath,
FS25/30 with bath, but have a look beforehand
as quality varies.
The friendly Uptown Motel (P.O. Box 15030,
Suva; tel. 306-044, fax 306-094), 55 Toorak Rd.,
has 12 spacious self-contained rooms with bal-
cony, phone, fridge, sofa, table and chairs, and
coffee-making facilities at F$28/39 single/double
with fan, F$50 with a/c and TV. One room has
been converted into a six-bunk dorm at F$12 a
bed. It's convenient to the shopping district. De-
spite the noisy nightclubs just down the road,
it's surprisingly peaceful here at night.
The 23 units at the Tourist Motor Inn (tel.
315-745), at 98 Amy St. several blocks east of
Waimanu Road, are FS20/30 single/double with
fan. A family room costs F$35. This three-story
building painted pink and cream is seldom full.
However, many of the people staying here seem
to have more on their minds than sleep, and it
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 199
can be rather noisy with shouts and laughter
echoing through the halls.
USS25-50 South
Several apartment hotels on the hill behind the
Central Police Station are worth a try. The con-
genial Town House Apartment Hotel (P.O.
Box 485, Suva; tel. 300-055, fax 303-446), 3
Forster St., is a five-story building with panoram-
ic views from the rooftop bar (happy hour
1700-1900). The 28 a/c units with cooking fa-
cilities and fridge are good value at F$48/60/72
single/double/triple and up.
Nearby and under the same ownership is the
four-story Sunset Apartment Motel (P.O. Box
485, Suva; tel. 301-799, fax 303-446), corner of
Gordon and Murray Streets. Avoid the four rooms
without cooking facilities that go for FS38/50 sin-
gle/double, and ask for one of the 10 two-bed-
room apartments with kitchens and fridge at
FS45/59, or the deluxe apartment at FS63/81.
The two-bedroom apartments cost F$1 1 per ad-
ditional person. A place in their 12-bed dorm is
F$9 (no cooking). Some of the cheaper rooms
are noisy and have uncomfortably soft beds.
The Town House reception also handles
bookings at Sarita Flats (tel. 300-084), near-
by at 39 Gordon St., where a bed-sitting room
apartment with cooking facilities will be FS80
single or double (extra adult FS12). This two-
story building lacks the balconies and good
views of the Town House.
The Southern Cross Hotel (P.O. Box 1076,
Suva; tel. 314-233, fax 302-901) is a high-rise
concrete building at 63 Gordon Street. The 35 a/c
rooms are FS90 for up to three people. Beware
of rooms on the lower floors, which are blasted
by band music six nights a week. Ask for the
5th floor or at least the other end of the building.
The hotel restaurant on the 6th floor serves de-
licious Fijian and Korean dishes. You reach the
swimming pool through the bar.
Four-story Elixir Motel Apartments (P.O.
Box 3059, Lami; tel. 303-288, fax 303-383), on
the corner of Gordon and Malcolm Streets, has
14 two-bedroom apartments with cooking facili-
ties and private bath at F$61 without a/c for up to
three people, F$72 with a/c. Weekly and month-
ly rates are 1 0 percent lower.
The Suva Motor Inn (P.O. Box 2500, Gov-
ernment Buildings, Suva; tel. 313-973, fax 300-
381), a three-story complex near Albert Park,
corner of Mitchell and Gorrie Streets, has 37 a/c
studio apartments with kitchenette at FS100 sin-
gle or double, F$120 triple (10 percent discount
by the week). The seven two-bedroom apart-
ments capable of accommodating five persons
are F$170 for the first two, plus F$10 for each
extra person. A courtyard swimming pool with
waterslide and cascade faces the restaurant/bar.
This new building (erected in 1 996) is well worth
considering by families who want a bit of comfort.
The Peninsula International Hotel (P.O. Box
888, Suva; tel. 313-711, fax 314-473), at the
comer of MacGregor Road and Pender Street, is
a stylish four-floor building with swimming pool.
The 32 standard a/c rooms are FS90/1 10 sin-
gle/double, while the eight suites with kitch-
enettes run F$100/115. In 2000 another eight
deluxe rooms were added, costing F$1 10/130.
Twenty self-catering units owned by the Na-
tional Olympic Committee are available at Suva
Apartments (P.O. Box 12488, Suva; tel. 304-
280, fax 301 -647), 1 7 Bau St., a few blocks east
of Pender Court. The 1 5 fan-cooled units in this
new four-story building are FS40/55/70 sin-
gle/double/triple, while the five a/c apartments are
F$50/65/80. Ten percent is taken off on weekly
rentals. By staying here you help support orga-
nized sports in Fiji!
Duncan Apartments (P.O. Box 1 1979, Suva;
tel. 300-377, fax 308-716), 9 Duncan Road, has
15 self-catering a/c flats with TV at FS60/400/850
a day/week/month for up to three people (add
about F$1 00 to the monthly rate for gas, water,
and electricity). This well-kept two-story com-
plex is in a nice residential area east of Albert
Park.
Anyone with any sort of business at the Uni-
versity of the South Pacific should stay at USP
Lodges (P.O. Box 1 168, Suva; tel. 212-614, fax
314-827). The accommodations here are in two
clusters. The Upper Campus Lodge, overlooking
the Botanical Garden on the main campus, has
six small flats with TV and cooking facilities at
F$49/59 single/double (or F$320/390 a week).
Four rooms with shared bath in an older wooden
building here are F$39/49— not as good a deal.
Down beside Laucala Bay near the School of
Marine Studies is Marine Lodge with 20 self-
contained rooms at F$44 single, and five self-
catering units with TV at FS49/59 single/double.
Copyrighted material
200 SUVA AND VICINITY
The reception for Marine Lodge is at Upper Cam-
pus Lodge. For a longer stay, ask about
Waqavuka Flats near Upper Campus Lodge,
which offers monthly rates. Rooms in both sec-
tions of USP Lodges are often occupied by stu-
dents on a semi-permanent basis, so it's best
to call ahead to check availability.
USS25-50 Northeast
Up in the Waimanu Road area, the value-for-
money Capricorn Apartment Hotel (P.O. Box
1261, Suva; tel. 303-732, fax 303-069), 7 St.
Fort St., has 34 spacious a/c units with cooking
facilities, fridge, and TV beginning at F$85 single
or double, F$95 triple, plus tax. A room upstairs
is F$10 more, a one-bedroom flat another F$20.
The three- and four-story apartment blocks edge
the swimming pool, and there are good views
of the harbor from the individual balconies.
Tropic Towers Apartment Motel (P.O. Box
1347, Suva; tel. 304-470. fax 304-169), 86
Robertson Rd., has 34 a/c apartments with cook-
ing facilities in a four-story building starting at
FS50/61/72 single/double/triple. Ask about the 13
"budget" units in the annex, which are F$33 sin-
gle or double with shared bath. Washing ma-
chines (F$9) and a swimming pool are available
for guests; screened windows or mosquito nets
are not. This and the Capricorn are good choic-
es for families.
USS50-100
Suva's largest hotel is the Holiday Inn Suva
(P.O. Box 1357, Suva; tel. 301-600, fax 300-
251 ), on the waterfront opposite the Government
Buildings. Formerly a Travelodge and now owned
by Bass Hotels and Resorts, the Holiday Inn
Suva is a big American-style place with 130 a/c
rooms with fridge and TV beginning at F$157
sinale or double The newlv renovated "superior"
^*l I • VJ ' W \J9 W V • II I W I I W III 1 I ■ l^» V V* *V W W%a*|a^ V* I » I
rooms are F$228. The swimming pool behind
the two-story buildings compensates for the lack
of a beach and the view of Viti Levu from here is
splendid. A UTC tour desk is at the hotel.
The nine-story Berjaya Hotel (P.O. Box 1 12,
Suva; tel. 312-300, fax 301-300), part of the Best
Western chain, at the corner of Malcolm and
Gordon Streets, is the tallest hotel in Fiji. The
48 a/c rooms with fridge and TV all face the har-
bor. It s FS134 single or double on the lower
floors or F$146 on the upper floors, and on those
days when they're giving the reduced "local rate"
(ask) the Berjaya becomes good value. This
Malaysian-owned hotel hosts Suva's only
Malaysian restaurant.
The 109-room Raffles Tradewinds Hotel
(P.O. Box 3377, Lami; tel. 362-450. fax 361-
464), at Lami on the Bay of Islands seven km
west of Suva, includes a 500-seat convention
center, swimming pool, and floating seafood
restaurant. Rates are F$163 single or double,
F$191 triple with private bath, fridge, and air
conditioning (reduced rates are often available).
Many cruising yachts anchor here. Though bus
service into Suva is good, the location is incon-
venient for those without a car.
Eco-Accommodations
Raintree Lodge (Tom Davis and Nick and Bar-
bara Vasutabu. P.O. Box 16655, Suva; tel. 320-
562, fax 320-113), near the entrance to Colo-i-
Suva Forest Park, caters well to both ends of the
market. Their 22-bed split-level dormitory
(FS 16.50 pp) shares toilet, cooking, and bathing
facilities with the four double rooms at F$55 (ask
for room No. 1 in Dorm No. 1 , which is the most
private). Camping is F$5 pp. More upscale are the
four lodges or bungalows in another section just
up the hill. These cost F$110 single or double,
and are quite luxurious with a sitting room, fridge,
private bath, and deck overlooking a small lake
(but no cooking facilities). Larger groups can book
the family lodge at F$220 for up to four people
(plus F$27.50 per additional person up to nine
maximum). If you'll be using the cooking facili-
ties, bring groceries from Suva as there's no store
here. Raintree's large thatched restaurant/bar
overlooks a former rock quarry, which has been
converted into a lovely lake teaming with tiny
tilapia fish. It's possible to borrow a bamboo raft
and paddle out to the center of the lake for swim-
ming. On Sundays there's a lovo (F$16) at noon.
Aside from its easy access to the forest park, the
lodge can be used as a base for visiting Suva
(the last bus back is at 1 900 daily). Bus connec-
tions are covered in the Colo-i-Suva listing above.
A taxi from Suva will cost F$8 (if arriving by air at
Nausori, call ahead for a free pickup). The whole
complex is clean and new (opened September
1999), and a model for ecotourism in Fiji.
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 201
FOOD
Downtown Eateries
The American-style food courts in the Down-
town Boulevard Center (tel. 305-590) on Ellery
Street and in Dolphins Food Court (tel. 307-
440; daily 0900-2100) at FNPF Place, Victoria
Parade and Loftus, offer familiar, easy eating.
Jackson Takeaway (tel. 303-986; Mon.-Fri.
0730-1730, Sat. 0730-1600), in the old town
hall next to the Ming Palace Restaurant on Vic-
toria Parade, serves Chinese lunches for F$3
or fish and chips for F$2. It's also good for a
quick cup of coffee.
Rachel's Deli & Bistro (tel. 309-993), 165
Victoria Parade opposite Fintel, has bagels,
croissants, sandwiches, salads, burgers, pies,
cakes, and cookies, all for under F$5. There's a
pleasant large seating area.
One of the few places serving a regular
cooked breakfast (F$6.50) is the Palm Court
Bistro (tel. 304-662; Mon.-Fri. 0700-1700, Sat.
0700-1430), in the Queensland Insurance Ar-
cade behind Air New Zealand on Victoria Pa-
rade. Their burgers and sandwiches are good at
lunchtime.
An inexpensive snack bar with concrete out-
door picnic tables is at the back side of the Hand-
icraft Market facing the harbor (the long soup"
is a bargain).
Low-budget snacks are also served at Don-
ald's Kitchen (tel. 315-587), 103 Cumming
Street. One block over on Marks Street are
cheaper Chinese restaurants, such as Kim's
Cafe (tel. 313-252), 128 Marks St.. where you
can get a toasted egg sandwich and coffee for
about F$1 .50. There are scores more cheap
milk bars around Suva, and you'll find them for
yourself as you stroll around town.
An Austrian reader sent us this;
Wlfy didn V you mention the market stalls?
Burgers for F$l, yummy cakes for F$0.50,
curry wrapped up in roti also F$0. 50, juices
(not onlygtuwa and pineapple, but all kinds)
for F$0.20, lots of ivi (chestnuts) for FS1, etc.
It 's the budget place to eat, and nice social
surroundings too.
Fijian
A popular place to sample Fijian food is the
Old Mill Cottage Cafe (tel. 312-134; closed
Sunday and evenings), 49 Carnarvon St.— the
street behind the Dolphins Food Court. Gov-
ernment employees from nearby offices de-
scend on this place at lunchtime for the inex-
pensive curried freshwater mussels, curried
chicken livers, fresh seaweed in coconut milk,
taro leaves creamed in coconut milk, and fish
cooked in coconut milk.
Indian
The Hare Krishna Vegetarian Restaurant (tel.
314-154; closed Sunday), at the comer of Pratt
and Joske Streets, serves ice cream (12 fla-
vors), sweets, and snacks downstairs, main
meals upstairs (available Mon.-Sat. 1 100-1430,
Fri. 1900-2100). If you want the all-you-can-eat
vegetarian thali (F$7.50), just sit down upstairs
and they'll bring it to you. No smoking or alcohol
is allowed.
A cheaper Indian place is the Curry House
(tel. 313-756; closed Sunday) at two locations: 87
Cumming Street, and in Dolphins Food Court
off Victoria Parade. Their special vegetarian thali
(FS3) is a good lunch and they also have meat
curries from F$5. Try the takeaway rotis.
Govinda Vegetarian Restaurant (Mon.-Fri.
0830-1800, Sat. 0830-1500), 93 Cumming St.,
has a combination thali ior FS6.50, plus sweets,
ice cream, milk shakes, and masala tea.
Suva's only upscale Indian restaurant is
Ashiyana (tel. 313-000; Tues.-Sat. 1 130-1430,
1800-2200, Sun. 1800-2130), in the old town
hall next to the Ming Palace Restaurant on Vic-
toria Parade. Their hot and spicy dishes are pre-
pared in a tandoor clay oven by a chef from India.
Asian
Not many Indian restaurants in Suva are open at
night or on Sunday, so this is when you should
turn to Suva's many excellent, inexpensive Asian
restaurants. Most serve beer, while the Indian
restaurants are usually "dry."
Two good-value Chinese places are adjacent
on Pratt Street near Hare Krishna. Dishes in the
glass-covered warmer at the Lantern Palace
Restaurant (tel. 314-633) are under F$4, while
those at the Guang Wha Restaurant next door
Copyrighted material
202 SUVA AND VICINITY
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 203
are about F$3. The Guang Wha is more likely to
be open on holidays and nothing on their regular
menu is over F$10.
The Sichuan Pavilion Restaurant (tel. 315-
194; Mon.-Sat. 1030-2300, Sun. 1600-2300),
upstairs in the old Garrick Hotel building at 6
Thomson St., is perhaps Suva's finest Asian
restaurant. Employees of the Chinese Embassy
frequent it for the spicy-hot Chinese dishes
(though they're not as hot as Sichuan food else-
where). Almost everything is good, but avoid
the lamb. Entrees average FS8-13. Weather
permitting, sit outside on the balcony and watch
all Suva go by.
The Phoenix Restaurant (tel. 31 1-889), 155
Victoria Parade, has inexpensive Chinese dish-
es like red pork with fried rice (F$5) in their
warmer and big bottles of beer. They're open
on Sunday 1100-2100.
The popular Peking Restaurant (tel. 312-
714; daily 1130-2230), 195 Victoria Parade, is
only a bit more expensive than the down-market
Chinese places, but the atmosphere is nicer and
the meals are individually prepared (averaging
F$5-10). Small parties of four or more can order
set dinner menus served in the traditional Chi-
nese banquet manner (F$10 pp and up). To
sample all the specialties of the house, eight
hours advance notice and a group of at least
six is required (F$21 pp).
Suva's most imposing Chinese restaurant by
far is the 300-seat Ming Palace (tel. 315-111;
Mon.-Sat. 1130-1430/1800-2200, Sun. 1700-
2200) in the old town hall next to the public li-
brary on Victoria Parade. Weekdays there's a
lunch buffet for F$9 (dinner entrees are F$9-18).
Fong Lee Seafood Restaurant (tel. 304-233;
Mon.-Sat. 1100-1400/1830-2230, Sun. 1830-
2230), 293 Victoria Parade, is more expensive
than the Peking Restaurant and the dining area
isn't as agreeable, but the food is said to be the
tastiest in Suva (notice the many affluent local
Chinese having dinner there). Lunch is cheaper
than dinner at the Fong Lee, or you can eat at
the Hong Kong Palace (tel. 301-519; Mon.-Sat.
1 1 00-2230) next door for a third of the price.
For upscale Japanese food, it's Daikoku (tel.
308-968; Mon.-Sat. 1200-1400, 1800-2200),
FNPF Place, 359 Victoria Parade. The Teppan-
Yaki dishes (F$20-48) are artistically prepared
right at your table.
The Korea House Restaurant (tel. 31 1-71 1 ;
daily 0900-1500, 1700-2100), 178 Waimanu
Road at Brewster, offers Korean dishes
(FS8-13), Chinese dishes (F$6-9), bulgogy
(F$10). bibimbab (F$8), and sashimi (FS13-18).
The top place to eat Chinese style near the
Raffles Tradewinds Hotel yacht anchorage is
the Castle Restaurant (tel. 361-223; closed
Sun.) in the Lami Shopping Center.
Better Restaurants
Tiko's Floating Restaurant (tel. 313-626; dinner
only) is housed in the MV Lycianda, an ex-Blue
Lagoon cruise ship launched at Suva in 1970
and now anchored off Stinson Parade behind
Sukuna Park. Their steaks and seafood are
good, and there's a bar called the Engineroom.
A real mountain of crabs will run F$26. It's a ro-
mantic spot, and you can feel the boat rock gen-
tly in the waves.
Cardo's Chargrill (tel. 314-330), in Regal
Lane around behind the Qantas and Air Pacific
offices, is run by descendants of Espero Cardo,
an Argentine gaucho said to have arrived on a
Koro Sea cruise in the early 1 800s only to have
his cattle rustled from below deck by Fijian war-
riors. What's known for sure is that today you
can sit at a table with a view of Suva Harbor
and consume steaks of 250, 300, or 400 grams
priced from FS19-33. Fancier dishes on the
main menu cater to other tastes.
The Nadi tourist-caterer Chef's has opened
branches in Suva. Chefs The Corner (Mon.-Fri.
1800-2200), Thomson and Pier streets beside
Jack's Handicrafts, serves coffee and snacks
to the trendy youths who want to be seen here.
Chef's The Restaurant (tel. 308-325) upstairs
offers casual lunches (F$9-14) from 1 100-1400,
and candlelight dinners (F$22-36) from
1800-2200. Tourists and the affluent consume
Chef's meat and seafood.
JJ's Bar & Grill (tel. 305-005; closed Sun.), at
10 Gordon St. just up from Sukuna Park, is a
smart yuppie place with daily specials listed on
blackboards. Soups, salads, and sandwiches
are available at lunch, and if you don't want any
of the main courses (F$12-27) it's just as good to
order a couple of appetizer dishes (the calamari
friti come recommended).
Two trendy restaurants are at Flagstaff,
halfway out to the university (take a taxi). The
Copyrighted material
204 SUVA AND VICINITY
Great Wok of China (tel. 301-285), comer of
Bau St. and Laucala Bay Rd., features spicy
Sichuan food, while The Yellow Door (tel. 314-
998) on Rewa Street just opposite has a steak
and seafood menu, as well as more Chinese
dishes cooked in the wok (F$6-10). Fish in co-
conut cream is F$10.50, kokoda F$5.50, steaks
F$1 1-13, and desserts to F$5. Shrimp, prawn,
and oyster specials are offered on weekends.
Their Western-style dishes are among the best of
their kind in Suva, and the local expats eat it up
with good reason.
ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS
In 1996 Village Six Cinemas (tel. 306-206)
opened on Scott Street, and you now have a
choice of six Hollywood films several times a
day. Regular admission is FS4.50, reduced to
F$3.50 on Tuesday. The air-conditioning is a
relief on a hot day. Century Theater (tel. 311-
641), 67 Marks St., shows mostly Asian karate
films or Indian movies in Hindi. Phoenix Cine-
ma, 192 Rodwell Road north of the bus station,
specializes in adult movies.
The top time to be in Suva is in August during
the Hibiscus Festival fills Albert Park with stalls,
games, and carnival revelers.
Nightclubs
There are many nightclubs, all of which have
FS3-5 cover charges on weekends and require
neat dress. Nothing much happens until after
2200, and women shouldn't enter alone. Late
at night, it's wise to take a taxi back to your hotel.
Suva is still a very safe city, but nasty, violent rob-
beries do occur.
Gays will feel comfortable at Lucky Eddie's
(tel. 312-884; Thurs.-Sat. 1900 until late), 217
Victoria Parade, but it's not really a gay bar, as
the Fijian women present try to prove. Nearby is
Bourbon Bluez (tel. 313-927), beside Air Nauru
across the street from O'Reilly's.
Signals Night Club (tel. 313-590; Mon.-Sat.
1900-0100), at 255 Victoria Parade opposite
the Suva City Library, has a cover charge after
2000 Thursday-Saturday only.
A shade rougher but also very popular is the
Golden Dragon (tel. 31 1-018; open Mon.-Sat.
1930-0100), 379 Victoria Parade.
Birdland Jazz Club, 6 Carnarvon St., up and
around the corner from O'Reilly's Pub, tel. 303-
833, open Tues.-Sun. from 1800, has out-
standing live rhythm and blues from 2230 on
Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday. Other nights
mere s recorded jazz, it s a late night place where
people come after they've been to others clubs.
Bojnngios Night Club (tel. 303-776), adjacent to
Birdland. is a disco open nightly from 1800 (cover
charge after 2200).
The Barn (tel. 307-845), 54 Carnarvon St.,
is a popular country and western club (open
Mon.-Thurs. 1900-0100, Fri. 1800-0100, Sat.
1930-0100) with live entertainment and a cover
charge from 2100.
The roughest of the downtown clubs is Che-
quers Nightspot (tel. 313-563). 27 Waimanu
Rd., which has disco music nightly except Sun-
day. Happy hour is all day until 1900. Hang onto
your wallet here.
Bars
O'Reilly's Pub (tel. 312-884), 5 MacArthur St.,
just around the comer from Lucky Eddie's, has a
happy hour daily 1600-1900. It's a nice relaxed
way to kick off a night on the town, and the big
sports screen and canned music are tops.
They're open Sunday.
The whimsically named Bad Dog Cafe (tel.
312-968), next door to O'Reilly's, is a trendy wine
bar serving margaritas, sangria, and a dozen
imported beers. Mexican dishes are on the food
menu, and for F$6 corkage you may BYO bottle
of wine from the adjacent Victoria Wines shop. A
back door from Bad Dog leads into the
Wolfhound Bar, Suva's second mock Insh pub.
A block up from O'Reilly's is The Merchants
Club (tel. 304-256; Mon.-Fri. 1600-2200, Sat.
1100-2200, Sun. 1100-1800). 15 Butt St. at
MacArthur. Properly dressed overseas visitors
are welcome in this classic South Seas bar.
Traps Bar (tel. 312-922; Mon.-Sat. from
1800), at 305 Victoria Parade next to the Shell
service station, is a groupie Suva social scene
with a happy hour until 1 900 (drunks and youths
under 18 are unwelcome here). There's live
music from 2000 on Wednesday and Saturday,
the nights to be there.
Shooters Bar (tel. 308-440), at 54 Carnarvon
St. next to The Bam, has a happy hour Mon-
day-Saturday 1700-2000. They play harder
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 205
rock music than the others and the atmosphere
is somewhere between O'Reilly's and Traps.
The bar at the Suva Lawn Bowling Club (tel.
302-394), facing the lagoon opposite Thurston
Botanical Gardens and just off Albert Park, is a
very convenient place to down a large bottle of Fiji
Bitter— the perfect place for a cold one after vis-
iting the museum. You can sit and watch the
bowling, or see the sun set over Viti Levu.
Club 2000 (tel. 304-1 12), in the former Metro-
pole Hotel building upstairs at Usher and Scott
streets near the market, supplies F$1 .30 mugs of
beer and it's safe enough during the day. At
night, you better know what you're doing.
Those in search of more subdued drinking
should try the Piano Bar in the lobby at the Hol-
iday Inn Suva (tel. 301-600), which often pre-
sents rather good jazz singers, or the Rooftop
Garden Bar at the Town House Motel (tel. 300-
055), which has a happy hour 1700-1900.
SHOPPING
The Government Handicraft Center (tel. 315-
869 or 211-306; Mon.-Fri. 0800-1630, Sat.
0900-1200) behind Ratu Sukuna House. Mac-
Arthur and Carnarvon Streets, is a low-pressure
place to familiarize yourself with what is au-
thentic. Jack's Handicrafts (tel. 308-893), Ren-
wick Road and Pier St., has Fijian crafts and
other tourist goods with prices clearly marked.
Suva Lawn Bowling
Club
The large Curio and Handicraft Market
(Mon.-Sat. 0800-1700) on the waterfront behind
the post office is a good place to haggle over
crafts, so long as you know how to spot what is
really Fijian (avoid masks and "tikis"). Unfortu-
nately many of the vendors are rather aggres-
sive and it's impossible to shop around in peace.
Also, never come here on the day when a cruise
ship is in port — prices shoot up. And watch out
for the annoying "sword sellers" mentioned in the
main introduction as they could accost you any-
where in Suva. (Strangers who greet you on
the street in Suva almost always want some-
thing from you.)
Cumming Street is Suva's busiest shopping
street. Expect to obtain a 10-40 percent dis-
count at the "duty-free" shops by bargaining,
but shop around before you buy. Be especially
wary when purchasing gold jewelry, as it might
be fake. And watch out for commission agents
who may try to show you around and get you a
"good price."
The Suva Flea Market on Rodwell Road op-
posite the bus station features a large selection
of island clothing and many good little places to
eat. You won't be hassled here.
For more upmarket apparel, examine the fash-
ionable hand-printed clothing and beachware at
Sogo Fiji (tel. 315-007), on Cumming Street and
on Victoria Parade next to the Bank of Hawaii.
You could come out looking like a real South
Seas character at a reasonable price.
206 SUVA AND VICINITY
J.R. White & Co. (tel. 302-325). in the mall be-
hind Air New Zealand, has all kinds of sporting
equipment (but not camping gear or backpacks).
They can repair worn-out zippers.
Wai Tui Surf (tel. 300-287), next to J.R. White
& Co., sells surfing paraphernalia, including styl-
ish bathing suits.
The Philatelic Bureau (P.O. Box 100. Suva;
tel. 312-928) at the General Post Office sells
the stamps of Niue. Pitcaim, Papua New Guinea,
Samoa, Solomon Islands, Tonga, Tuvalu, and
Vanuatu, as well as those of Fiji.
Caines Photofast (tel. 313-211), Renwick
Road and Pratt St. opposite The Triangle, of-
fers one-hour color film developing.
INFORMATION
The Fiji Visitors Bureau (tel. 302-433; Mon.-Fri.
0800-1630, Sat. 0800-1200) is on Thomson
Street across from the General Post Office. They
have a good supply of brochures and can an-
swer most questions.
The South Pacific Tourism Organization
(tel. 304-177, fax 301-995). FNPF Plaza, 3rd
floor, 343-359 Victoria Parade at Loftus St., pro-
vides information on the entire South Pacific.
Ask for a copy of their free guidebook Vie South
Pacific Islands Travel Planner.
The Bureau of Statistics (P.O. Box 2221,
Government Buildings, Suva; tel. 315-822, fax
303-656), 8th floor, Ratu Sukuna House, Victo-
ria Parade and MacArthur, has many interesting
technical publications on the country and a li-
brary where you may browse.
The Maps and Plans Room (tel. 211-395;
Mon.-Thurs. 0800-1530, Fri. 0800-1500) of the
Lands and Survey Department, Ground Floor,
Government Buildings, sells excellent topo-
graphical maps of Fiji.
Carpenters Shipping (tel. 312-244), 4th floor.
Neptune House, Tofua Street, Walu Bay (near
Muaiwalu Wharf), sells British navigational charts
of Fiji (F$71 each). Nearby is the Fiji Hydro-
graphic Office (tel. 315-457; Mon.-Fri.
0800-1300 and 1400-1600). Top Floor, Free-
ston Rd., Walu Bay, with navigational charts of
the Yasawas, Kadavu, eastern Vanua Levu, and
the Lau Group at F$22 a sheet (all other areas
are covered by the British charts).
Bookstores
The Dominion Book Center (tel. 304-334), Do-
minion House Arcade behind the Fiji Visitors
Bureau, has some books on Fiji.
The Methodist Book Center (tel. 31 1-466).
1 1 Stewart St. adjacent to Centenary Methodist
Church, has a surprisingly good selection of
local books on Fiji and the Pacific.
The Fiji Museum shop also sells a few ex-
cellent books at reasonable prices.
Suva's number one bookstore is the USP
Book Center (tel. 313-900, fax 303-265;
Mon.-Thurs. 0830-1615, Fri. 0830-1545) at the
Laucala Bay university campus. Not only do they
have one of the finest Pacific sections in the re-
gion, but they stock the publications of some 20
occasional publishers affiliated with the university
and you can turn up some truly intriguing items.
Also visit the Book Display Room in the Institute
of Pacific Studies building (tel. 212-332), not far
from the Book Center. They sell assorted books
by local authors published by the IPS itself.
The New Coconut Frond (tel. 311-963), at
the back of the Suva Flea Market on Rodwell
Road, has a large stock of used paperbacks.
Libraries
The Suva City Library (P.O. Box 176, Suva;
tel. 313-433, extension 241 ; Mon., Tues., Thurs.,
Fri. 0930-1800, Wed. 1200-1800, Sat.
0900-1300), at 196 Victoria Parade, allows vis-
itors to take out four books upon payment of a re-
fundable F$20 deposit.
The National Archives of Fiji (P.O. Box 2125,
Government Buildings. Suva; tel. 304-144,
Mon.-Fri. 0800-1300, 1400-1600), 25 Carnar-
von St., has an air-conditioned library upstairs
with a large collection of local newspapers.
The excellent Fiji Museum Library (tel. 315-
944; Mon.-Fri. 0800-1300. 1400-1600) is di-
rectly behind the main museum in a separate
building. They charge F$0.50 to use the facilities.
The library at the Laucala Campus of the Uni-
versity of the South Pacific (tel. 212-402) is
open Monday-Friday 0800-1 600 year-round.
During semesters they also open Saturday. Sun-
day afternoon, and in the evening. A library tour
is offered Friday at 0900 during the school year.
You'll find a reading room with international
newspapers downstairs. Tourists can request
special permission to visit the Pacific Room up-
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 207
stairs once only. Otherwise, it's possible to buy a
visitors card (F$10) good for three days. To bor-
row up to five books a month from the library, one
must pay F$50 for an "external borrowers card"
(photo required), which also allows access to
the Pacific Room for one year. The library's Pa-
cific Information Center sells South Pacific Bib-
liography, a detailed list of publications about
the region. Prior to entry, bags must be left in a
cloakroom behind and below the library.
The Alliance Francaise (P.O. Box 14548,
Suva; tel. 313-802, fax 313-803). 14-18 Mac-
Gregor Road, has an excellent selection of
French books, magazines, and newspapers.
You're welcome to peruse materials in the read-
ing room Mon.-Fri. 0900-1900. Ask about their
video and film evenings.
Ecology Groups
The Greenpeace Pacific Campaign (tel. 312-
861, fax 312-784; Mon.-Fri. 0830-1700) is
above the Ming Palace Restaurant in the old
town hall on Victoria Parade.
The Pacific Concerns Resource Center (tel.
304- 649, fax 304-755), 83 Amy St., has a library
open to the public Mon.-Fri. 0900-1300. A large
collection of periodicals on Pacific environmen-
tal and social issues can be accessed here, and
some books are for sale. The Center is the di-
recting body of the Nuclear-Free and Indepen-
dent Pacific (NFIP) movement, a regional grass-
roots coalition.
The South Pacific Action Committee for
Human Ecology and Environment or
SPACHEE (P.O. Box 16737, Suva; tel. 312-371,
fax 303-053; Mon.-Fri. 0830-1630) has a re-
source center at the junction of Ratu Cakobau.
Domain, and Denison Roads, a block back from
the South Seas Private Hotel.
The National Trust for Fiji (P.O. Box 2089,
Government Buildings, Suva; tel. 301-807, fax
305- 092), 3 Ma'afu St., manages eight nature re-
serves and historic sites around Fiji. Their neigh-
bor, the World Wide Fund for Nature (Private
Mail Bag, GPO Suva; tel. 315-533, fax 315-410),
4 Ma'afu St., assists various projects around the
country for the support of wildlife and wild habitats.
Travel Agents
Hunts Travel (P.O. Box 686, Suva; tel. 315-
288, fax 302-212), upstairs from the Dominion
House arcade behind the Fiji Visitors Bureau,
is the place to pick up air tickets. They often
know more about Air Pacific flights than the Air
Pacific employees themselves!
Rosie The Travel Service (tel. 314-436), 46
^j^)f^d^5n ^^t. n^j^ir ^^^irit^i \~ 1 3ts , b^^^^ks tours
commodations all around Fiji.
Airline Offices
Reconfirm your onward flight reservations at
your airlines' Suva office: Air Fiji (tel. 313-666),
185 Victoria Parade (also represents Air Vanuatu
and Polynesian Airlines); Air Nauru (tel. 312-
377), Ratu Sukuna House, 249 Victoria Parade;
Air New Zealand (tel. 313-100), Queensland
Insurance Center, Victoria Parade; Air Pacific
(tel. 304-388), Colonial Building, Victoria Pa-
rade; Qantas Airways (tel. 313-888), Colonial
Building. Victoria Parade; Solomon Airlines
(tel. 315-889). Global Air Service, 3 Ellery St.,
and Sun Air (tel. 315-755), Queensland Insur-
ance Arcade above Air New Zealand (also rep-
resents Royal Tongan Airlines). While you're
there, check your seat assignment.
SERVICES
Money
Rates at the banks vary slightly and you might
get a dollar or two more on a large exchange
by checking the Westpac Bank, ANZ Bank, and
Bank of Hawaii before signing your checks. All of
them have branches on Victoria Parade near
The Triangle. The ANZ Bank has Visa/Master-
Card ATMs at their main branch opposite Air
Pacific, outside Village Six Cinemas, at Walu
Bay Mobil Service Station, and at the ANZ Bank
branch in Lami. The Bank of Hawaii has Bankoh
ATMs at their main branch on Victoria Parade, at
the food court in Downtown Boulevard Center on
Ellery St., and inside Dolphins Food Court at
FNPF Place.
Money Exchange (tel. 303-566; Mon.-Fri.
0830-1700, Sat. 0830-1300), Thomson and
Pier streets opposite the Fiji Visitors Bureau,
changes money at rates comparable to the
banks. Money World Fiji (Mon.-Fri. 0830-1630.
Sat. 0900-1230), inside Caines Photofast ad-
jacent to the ANZ Bank, gives a better rate than
the banks for traveler's checks.
Copyrighted material
208 SUVA AND VICINITY
Thomas Cook Travel (tel. 301-603), opposite
the General Post Office, changes foreign cur-
rency (Mon.-Fri. 0830-1600, Sat. 0830-1200),
at competitive rates, and sells the banknotes of
neighboring countries like New Caledonia,
Samoa, Solomon Islands, Tonga, and Vanu-
atu — convenient if you're headed for any of them.
On Sunday and holidays changing money is a
problem (try your hotel if you get stuck).
Telecommunications
Fintel, the Fiji International Telecommunica-
tions office (tel. 312-933, fax 301-025). 158 Vic-
toria Parade, is open Monday-Saturday 0800-
1700 for long-distance calls and telegrams. The
six private card phone booths here are the most
convenient place in Suva to place either local
or international calls. If you'd like to have some
used Fiji phone cards for gifts or souvenirs, check
the booths here as people often discard their
cards when they're blank and the floor is usual-
ly littered with them.
Telecom Fiji operates a call center (tel. 303-
300) at Downtown Boulevard Center in the mall
off Ellery Street.
The public fax at Suva General Post Office
is fax 302-666 should you need to receive a fax
from anyone. Otherwise have your fax sent via
Fintel at fax 301-025.
Internet Access
Internet access is available at the Telecom Fiji
Customer Care Center (tel. 210-335; Mon.-Fri.
0800-1630). opposite the General Post Office
and Fiji Visitors Bureau. The charge is F$3.30 for
the first 15 minutes, then F$0.22 each addition-
al minute.
Several other places around Suva also offer
Internet access at FS0.22 a minute, including
the Alpha Computer Center (tel. 300-211;
Mon.-Fri. 0800-1800, Sat. 0900-1600. Sun.
1000-1400). 181 Victoria Parade between Gor-
don and MacArthur.
The Republic of Cappuccino (tel. 300-333;
Mon.-Fri. 0700-2230, Sat. 0800-2230, Sun.
1 00O-1900), in Dolphins Food Court at FNPF
Place, Victoria Parade and Loftus, is Suva's only
true Internet cafe Aside from Internet access at
the usual FS0.22 a minute, they serve a variety of
teas and coffees (F$2-3).
Immigration
The Immigration Office (tel. 312-622; Mon.-Fri.
0830-1 300, 1 400-1 500) for extensions of stay,
etc., is on the 3rd floor at Suvavou House, Glad-
stone Road and Victoria Parade.
Cruising yachties wishing to visit the outer
islands must first obtain a free permit from the
Provincial Desk Unit at the Ministry for Fijian
Affairs (P.O. Box 2100, Government Buildings.
Suva; tel. 304-200), 3rd floor. Native Land Trust
Board building, Carnarvon Street and Gladstone
Road. They'll want to see the customs papers for
the boat and all passports, but the procedure
is fast and friendly. (Yachties anchoring off a
Fijian village should present a sevusevu of kava
to the chief.)
Consulates
The following countries have diplomatic mis-
sions in Suva: China (tel. 300-215), 147 Queen
Elizabeth Dr., Suva Point; Chile (tel. 300-433),
Asgar & Co. Optometrists, Queensland Insur-
ance Building behind Air New Zealand, Victo-
ria Parade; European Union (tel. 313-633), 4th
floor, Development Bank Center, 360 Victoria
Parade; Federated States of Micronesia (tel.
304-566), 37 Loftus St.; France (tel. 312-233),
7th floor, Dominion House. Scott St.; Germany
(tel. 322-405), 30 Deovji St., Tamavua Heights;
Japan (tel. 304-633), 2nd floor, Dominion House,
Scott St.; Korea (tel. 300-977), Vanua House,
Victoria Parade; Malaysia (tel. 312-166), 5th
floor, Pacific House, Butt and MacArthur Streets;
Marshall Islands (tel. 387-899), 41 Borron Rd.,
Samabula; Nauru (tel. 313-566), 7th floor. Ratu
Sukuna House, Victoria Parade and MacArthur;
Netherlands (tel. 301-499), Cromptons,
Queensland Insurance Building behind Air New
Zealand, Victoria Parade; New Zealand (tel.
311-422), 10th floor, Reserve Bank Building,
Pratt St.; Papua New Guinea (tel. 304-244),
3rd floor, Credit House, Gordon and Malcolm
Streets; Taiwan (tel. 315-922), 6th floor, Pacific
House, Butt and MacArthur Streets; Tuvalu (tel.
301-355), 16 Gorrie St.; United Kingdom (tel.
31 1-033), 47 Gladstone Rd.; and the U.S.A. (tel.
314-466, fax 300-081). 31 Loftus Street. Canada
and Italy have consuls at Nadi. (The Suva City
Council has asked the U.S. embassy to relo-
cate away from downtown Suva. The street in
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 209
front of the embassy was closed in 1 999 after
threats were received, creating traffic problems
for the city.)
Everyone other than New Zealanders requires
a visa to visit Australia, and these are readily
available free of charge at the Australian High
Commission (P.O. Box 214, Suva; tel. 382-
219; Mon.-Fri. 0830-1200). 10 Reservoir Rd., off
Princes Road, Samabula. You can also sit and
read week-old Australian newspapers here. To
get there it's probably easier to take a taxi, then
return to town by bus.
Laundry
Gangaram's Laundry (tel. 302-269; Mon.-Fri.
0730-1800, Sat. 0730-1400), 126 Toorak Road,
offers same day cleaning services.
Public Toilets
Public toilets are just outside the Handicraft Mar-
ket on the side of the building facing the harbor;
in the Thurston Botanical Gardens; in Down-
town Boulevard Center on Ellery Street; beside
Nubukalou Creek off Renwick Road; and be-
tween the vegetable market and the bus sta-
tion. Most are free, but the public toilets in Suku-
na Park are F$0.24.
Yachting Facilities
The Royal Suva Yacht Club (P.O. Box 335,
Suva; tel. 304-201, fax 304-433, channel 16),
on Foster Road between Suva and Lami, offers
visiting yachts such amenities as mooring privi-
leges, warm showers, laundry facilities, cheap
drinks, barbecues, and the full use of club ser-
vices by the whole crew at FS38 a week (F$19
for solo mariners). There have been reports of
thefts from boats anchored here, so watch out.
Many yachts anchor off the Raffles Tradewinds
Hotel on the Bay of Islands, a recognized hurri-
cane anchorage.
HEALTH
Suva's Colonial War Memorial Hospital (tel.
313-444), on Waimanu Rd. about a kilometer
northeast of the center, is available 24 hours a
day in emergencies. The hospital charges com-
mercial rates to nonresidents, so in non-life-
threatening situations you're better off seeing a
private doctor.
HealthCare Pacific (tel. 303-404. fax 303-
456), corner of Amy and Brewster Streets, is a
modern private hospital which opened in early
2001. The Fiji Recompression Chamber Fa-
cility (tel. 305-154 or 850-630), donated by the
Cousteau Society in 1992, is at HealthCare Pa-
cific, but operates independently.
The Downtown Boulevard Medical Center
(tel. 313-355; Mon.-Fri. 0830-1700, Sat.
0830-1 130), in the mall off Ellery Street, has
several foreign doctors (one female) on their
roster, and a good pharmacy (tel. 303-770) is
nearby.
The J.P. Bayly Clinic (tel. 315-888. Mon.-Fri.
0800-1600), upstairs at 190 Rodwell Rd. oppo-
site the Phoenix Cinema, accommodates three
doctors and a female dentist (Dr. Satya Khan).
Two other dentists are Dr. David M. Charya
(tel. 302-160), The Dental Center, 59 Cumming
St.; and Dr. Abdul S. Haroon (tel. 313-870), Suite
12, Epworth House off Nina Street (just down
the hall from Patterson Brothers).
The Fiji Women's Crisis Center (tel. 313-
300 answered 24 hours), 88 Gordon St. opposite
the Berjaya Hotel, offers free and confidential
counseling for women and children. Their office
is open Monday-Friday 0830-1630, Saturday
0900-1200.
TRANSPORTATION
Although nearly all international flights arrive at
Nadi, Suva is Fiji's main domestic transportation
hub. Interisland shipping crowds the harbor, and
if you can't find a ship going your way at the time
you wish to travel, Air Fiji and Sun Air fly to ail the
major Fiji islands, while Air Pacific serves New
Zealand, Tonga, and Samoa and Air Fiji goes
to Tonga and Tuvalu— all from Nausori Airport.
Make the rounds of the shipping offices listed
below, then head over to Walu Bay to check the
information. Compare the price of a cabin and
deck passage, and ask if meals are included.
A solid block of buses awaits your patronage
at the market bus station near the harbor, with
continuous local service, and frequent long-dis-
tance departures to Nadi and Lautoka. Many of
Copyrighted material
210 SUVA AND VICINITY
ISA LEI (THE FIJIAN SONG OF FAREWELL)
Isa, isa vulagi lasa dina,
Nomu lako, au na rarawa kina?
Cava beka, ko a mai cakava,
Nomu lako, au na sega ni lasa.
Isa lei, na noqu rarawa,
Ni ko sana vodo e na tnataka.
Bau nanuma, na nodatou lasa,
Mai Suva nanuma tikoga.
Vanua rogo, na nomuni vanua,
Kena ca, ni levu tu na ua.
Lomaqu voli, me 'u bau butuka,
Tovolea, ke balavu na bula.
Isa lei, na noqu rarawa,
Ni ko sana vodo e na mataka.
Bau nanuma, na nodatou lasa,
Mai Suva nanuma tikoga.
Domoni dina, na nomu yanuyanu,
Kena kau, wale na salusalu,
Mocelolo, bua, na kukuwalu,
Lagakali, baba na rosidamu.
Isa lei, na noqu rarawa,
Ni ko sana vodo e na mataka.
Bau nanuma, na nodatou Lisa,
Mai Suva nanuma tikoga.
Isa, isa, you are my only treasure,
Must you leave me, so lonely and forsaken?
As the roses will miss the sun at dawning,
Every moment, my heart for you is yearning.
Isa lei, the purple shadows falling,
Sad the morrow will dawn upon my sorrow.
Oh! Forget not, when you arc far away,
Precious moments beside Suva Bay.
Isa lei, my heart was filled with pleasure,
From the moment, I heard your tender greeting
Mid the sunshine, we spent the hours together,
Now so swiftly those happy hours are fleeting.
Isa lei, the purple shadows fall,
Sad the morrow will dawn upon my sorrow.
Oh! Forget not, when you are far away,
Precious moments beside Suva Bay.
O'er the ocean your island home is calling,
Happy country where roses bloom in splendor,
Oh, I would but journey there beside you,
Then forever my heart would sing in rapture.
Isa lei, the purple shadows fall,
Sad the morrow will dawn upon my sorrow.
Oh! Forget not, when you are far away,
Precious moments beside Suva Bay.
the points of interest around Suva are accessible
on foot, but if you wander too far, jump on any
bus headed in the right direction and you'll wind
up back in the market. Taxis are also easy to
find and relatively cheap
Suva's bus station can be a little confusing
as there are many different companies, and time
tables are not posted. Most drivers know where
a certain bus will park, so just ask. For informa-
tion on bus services around Viti Levu and do-
mestic flights from Nausori Airport, see Getting
Around in the main introduction. Shipping
vices from Suva are covered below.
Ferries to Ovalau Island
Air Fiji flies from Suva to Levuka (F$41 ) two or
three times a day, but the most popular way to go
is on the bus/ferry/bus combination via Natovi.
This service is operated by Patterson Broth-
ers Shipping (P.O. Box 1041, Suva; tel. 315-
644, fax 301-652), Suite 1, 1st floor, Epworth
Arcade off Nina Street. Patterson's "Sea-Road"
bus leaves from the bus station opposite the
Suva Flea Market Monday-Saturday at 1400
(F$25). At Natovi (67 km) it drives onto an old
Japanese ferry for Buresala on Ovalau, then
continues to Levuka, where it should arrive
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 21 1
around 1745. For the return journey you leave
the Patterson Brothers office in Levuka Mon-
day-Saturday at 0500, arriving in Suva at 0800.
These trips should take four or five hours right
through, but can be late if the ferry connection is
delayed. Bus tickets must be purchased in ad-
vance at the office, and on Saturdays and public
holidays reservations should be made at least a
day ahead.
You could also try going via Leleuvia Island
Resort, though in early 2001 the Leleuvia boats
weren't operating regularly due to a lack of busi-
ness. In past the Leleuvia bus left Suva Mon-
day, Wednesday, and Friday at 1200 for Bau
Landing, where you boarded a speedboat pow-
ered by two 40-horsepower Yamaha engines to
Leleuvia Island and Levuka (four hours, F$25
one-way). A stopover on Leleuvia is always pos-
sible (F$45 round-trip from Suva). To check on
the current situation, go to Sunset Apartment
Motel (tel. 301-799), corner of Gordon and Mur-
ray Streets, or Colonial Lodge (tel. 300-655), 19
Anand St., Suva. Otherwise, call Leleuvia Is-
land Resort at tel. 301-584.
When both services are functioning, we rec-
ommend traveling with Patterson northbound
and Leleuvia southbound for variety and the
most convenient timings. In good weather the
Leleuvia boat is a lot more fun and follows a
much more scenic route, with a cruise past Bau
and a stop at Leleuvia. On the down side, they
only use a small 15-person launch with a roof, so
on a stormy day the much larger Patterson
Brothers car ferry would be preferable. It's a
beautiful circle trip worth the effort.
Ships to Northern Fiji
Patterson Brothers Shipping (tel. 315-644),
Suite 1 , 1st floor, Epworth Arcade off Nina Street,
takes reservations for the Suva-Natovi-
Nabouwalu-Labasa "Sea-Road" ferry/bus com-
bination, which departs the bus station opposite
the Suva Flea Market Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at
0530. Fares from Suva are F$39 to Nabouwalu or
F$45 right through to Labasa, an excellent 10-
hour trip. There may be special trips to Savusavu
on holidays. Forthcoming departures are listed on
a blackboard in Patterson's Suva office and the
schedule varies slightly each week. Patterson
Brothers also has offices in Labasa, Lautoka,
Levuka, Savusavu, and Taveuni.
Taina's Travel Services (tel. 307-889, fax
306-189), upstairs in Epworth House opposite
Patterson Brothers, handles bookings on the 65-
meter MV Adi Savusavu, a former Swedish Scar-
lett Line ferry used on the Landskrona-Copen-
hagen run. Now operated by Beachcomber
Cruises, this ferry generally leaves Walu Bay,
Suva, northbound for Savusavu and Taveuni
Tuesday at 1000 and Thursday at noon; Saturday
at 1900 the Adi Savusavu goes to Savusavu
only. Fares from Suva are F$42/52 economy/first
class to Savusavu or FS47/55 to Taveuni. A bus
connection from Savusavu to Labasa is an extra
F$5. The air-conditioned first-class lounge con-
tains 30 airline-style seats, plus six long tables
with chairs. If you're fast it's possible to rent a
mattress in first class at F$5 pp for the trip. Down-
stairs in economy are another 246 padded seats
and space in which to spread a mat. The Adi
Savusavu also carries 1 2 cars and 1 5 trucks.
Consort Shipping Line (P.O. Box 152, Suva;
tel. 313-344 or 302-877. fax 303-389), in the
Dominion House arcade on Thomson Street,
operates the MV Spirit of Free Enterprise (pop-
ularly known as the "Sofe"), a 450-passenger
car ferry that formerly shuttled between the north
and south islands of New Zealand. The "Sofe"
leaves Suva on Tuesday and Saturday at 1800
for Koro (nine hours, F$32), Savusavu (14 hours,
FS36), and Taveuni (23 hours, F$40/80
deck/cabin). The ship spends all day Wednesday
and Sunday tied up at Savusavu, and Taveuni
passengers can get off and walk around. The
two-berth cabins of the "Sofe" are quite com-
fortable and good value at F$70 pp to Savusavu
or F$80 pp to Taveuni. For a refundable deposit
the purser will give you the key to your cabin,
allowing you to wander around the ship without
worrying about your luggage. Another advan-
tage of taking a cabin is that you're able to order
meals in the pleasant first-class restaurant. (Only
cabin passengers may do this.) If you're traveling
deck, take along something to eat, as the snack
bar on board is unreliable.
Ship to Kadavu and Rotuma
In 1998 the choice of ships to Kadavu was cut in
half when the MV Gurawa of Whippy's Shipping
hit a reef near Alberts Place. Kadavu Shipping
Co. (tel. 31 1-766, fax 312-987). in the Ports Au-
thority office building between hangers Nos. 1 1
Copyrighted material
212 SUVA AND VICINITY
and 12, Rona Street, Walu Bay, still runs the
MV Bulou-ni-ceva to Kadavu twice a week. The
boat leaves Suva Monday and Thursday at mid-
night, with the Monday trip going to Matana and
Vunisea and not calling at Jona's, Albert's, or
Matava. The Thursday boat reaches Albert's
Place around 1400. Saturday around 1000 they
pick up passengers to return to Suva, arriving at
1700. Fares are F$42/55 deck/salon, but only
the salon fare includes meals. Deck passengers
can stretch out on long benches on the middle
deck when it isn't crowded. Once a month this
ship sails to Rotuma, a two-day journey costing
F$90/140 deck/salon. The Bulou-ni-ceva is a
former Chinese riverboat now owned by Kadavu
Province (the entire crew is from Kadavu).
Ships to Other Islands
Salia Basaga Shipping (P.O. Box 14470, Suva;
tel. 303-403) runs the MV Tunatuki //to the Lau
Group twice a month. This large metal trading
ship styles itself the "inter island trail blazer."
There are two four-bunk cabins, and the fare to
Lakeba or Vanua Balavu is F$77/1 10 deck/cabin
one-way, meals included. Their office is in a
container on Muaiwalu Wharf.
Patterson Brothers Shipping, mentioned
above, will know about services to Lau and Ro-
tuma on the large car ferry Island Navigator.
They also handle the small wooden copra boat
AdiLomaito Lomaiviti, Lau, and Rotuma. Other
small boats, such as the Cagidonu and Taik-
abara, run from Suva to Lau every week or two.
Ask the crews of vessels tied up at Muaiwalu
Jetty, Walu Bay, for passage to Nairai, Gau,
Koro, Lau, etc. Don't believe the first person
who tells you there's no boat going where you
want — keep trying.
Food is usually included in the price and on the
outward journey it will probably be okay, but on
the return don't expect much more than rice and
tea. If you're planning a long voyage by interis-
land ship, a big bundle of kava roots to captain
and crew as a token of appreciation for their
hospitality works wonders.
Keep in mind that all of the ferry departure
times mentioned above and elsewhere in this
book are only indications of what was true in the
past. It's essential to check with the company of-
fice for current departure times during the week
you wish to travel. Quite a few ships leave Suva
on Saturday, but none depart on Sunday. Read-
ers have questioned safety standards on these
ships, some of which seem to be nearing the end
of their working lives — use them at your own risk.
To their credit, Patterson Brothers employees
give a safety talk to passengers on some trips, ex-
plaining the lifesaving measures aboard ship. In
1 997 the Patterson ferry Jubilee was scuttled by
its crew after being declared unfit for service.
Ships to Other Countries
The Wednesday issue of the Fiji Times carries a
most are container ships that don't accept pas-
sengers. Most shipping is headed for Tonga and
Samoa— there's not much going westward, and
actually getting on any of the ships mentioned
below requires considerable persistence. It's
often easier to sign on as crew on a yacht and
they probably will be heading west. Try both
yacht anchorages in Suva: put up a notice, ask
around, etc.
Neptune Shipping (tel. 304-528), 5th floor,
Neptune House, Tofua Street, Walu Bay, repre-
sents the cargo vessel Moana, which sails oc-
casionally from Suva to Wallis and Futuna, then
on to Noumea. This ship does accept passen-
gers, although Neptune may advise otherwise. If
you get this story just find out when the ship will
arrive at Suva, then go and see the captain. This
is a beautiful trip, not at all crowded between
Fiji and Wallis. Book a cabin, however, if you're
going right through to Noumea.
Carpenters Shipping (tel. 312-244, fax 301-
572), 4th floor, Neptune House, Tofua Street,
Walu Bay, is an agent for the monthly Bank
Line service to Lautoka, Port Vila, Luganville,
Honiara, Papua New Guinea, and on to the Unit-
ed Kingdom. Again, they cannot sell you a pas-
senger ticket and will only tell you when the ship
is due in port and where it's headed. It's up to you
to make arrangements personally with the cap-
tain, and the fare won't be cheap. Most passen-
gers book months in advance.
Pacific Agencies (tel. 315-444, fax 301-127),
on Robertson Road between Rodwell Road and
Nina Street, knows about Pacific Forum Line con-
tainer ships from Suva to Apia, Pago Pago, and
Nuku'alofa, such as the Samoan government-
owned Forum Samoa (every three weeks) and
the Tongan government-owned Fua Kavenga
Copyrighted material
SUVA AND VICINITY 213
(monthly service). This office doesn't sell pas-
senger tickets, so just ask when these ships will be
in port, then go and talk to the captain, who is the
only one who can decide if you'll be able to go.
The High Commission of Tuvalu (P.O. Box
14449, Suva; tel. 301-355, fax 308-479), 16 Gor-
rie St., runs the Nivaga //to Funafuti about four
times a year, but the dates are variable. Tick-
ets are available with or without meals, first or
second class. They only know about a week be-
forehand approximately when the ship may sail.
After reaching Funafuti, the ship cruises the Tu-
valu Group.
Williams & Gosling Ltd. Ships Agency
(P.O. Box 79, Suva; tel. 312-633, fax 307-358),
189 Rodwell Road near the market bus station,
books passengers on the Kiribati Shipping Ser-
vices vessel Nei Matangare, which leaves Suva
for Funafuti and Tarawa occasionally. The three-
day trip to Funafuti costs A$95/190 deck/cabin
one-way, otherwise the seven-day journey Suva-
Tarawa with a day at Funafuti is A$1 84/368,
meals included.
Taxis
Taxi meters are set at level one daily 0600-2200
with FS0.50 charged at flag-fall and about F$1 a
km. From 2200 to 0600 the flag-fall is F$1 plus
F$1.26 a km. You have to insist that they use
their meter and it's a good idea if you'll be going
far and aren't sure of the fare. Otherwise, just
ask for a flat rate, which shouldn't be over FS2 in
the city center or FS3 to the suburbs. To hire a taxi
for a city tour might cost around F$15 an hour.
Long-distance taxis to Nadi and Lautoka park
outside Foodland, comer of Robertson Road
and Struan Street near the market. To Nadi it's
F$1 3 pp or F$52 for the whole car. For an extra
F$30 or so, you should be able to negotiate a
slower trip with stops along the way. Write out a
list of the places you might like to stop and show
it to the driver beforehand, so he can't demand
more money later on.
Car Rentals
Car rentals are available in Suva from Avis (tel.
313-833) beside Asco Motors, Foster Road,
Walu Bay, Budget (tel. 315-899), 123 Foster
Rd.. Walu Bay, Central (tel. 31 1 -866). 293 Vic-
toria Parade, Dove (tel. 311-755), Brewster
Street near Korea House, and Thrifty (tel. 314-
436), 46 Gordon Street.
Tours
For information on day-trips from Suva offered by
Wilderness Ethnic Adventure Fiji (P.O. Box
1389, Suva; tel. 315-730, fax 300-584), turn to
the Navua and Nausori sections in this book.
Wilderness also runs two-hour city sightseeing
tours three times a day (adults F$30, children
under 12 years F$15). These trips can be
booked through any travel agency in Suva.
Copyrighted material
214 SUVA AND VICINITY
NAUSORI AND VICINITY
NAUSORI
In 1881 the Rewa River town of Nausori, 19 km
northeast of Suva, was chosen as the site of Fi-
ji's first targe sugar mill, which operated until
1959. In those early days it was incorrectly be-
lieved that sugarcane grew better on the wetter
eastern side of the island. Today cane is grown
only on the drier, sunnier western sides of Viti
Levu and Vanua Levu. The old sugar mill is now
a rice mill and storage depot, as the Rewa Valley
has become a major rice-producing area. Chick-
en feed is also milled here.
Nausori is Fiji's fifth-largest town (population
22,000) and the headquarters of Central Divi-
sion and Tailevu Province. The Rewa is Fiji's
largest river and the nine-span bridge here was
erected in 1937. A new Rewa River bridge con-
structed with European Union aid money is ex-
pected to be operational by 2003. The town is
better known for its large international airport
\ U 4 To Natovi and Rakiraki
" AROUND
NAUSORI
three km southeast, built as a fighter strip to de-
fend Fiji's capital during World War II. There are
several banks in Nausori (the ANZ Bank has an
ATM). The population is predominantly Indo-Fi-
jian. In mid-2000 the interior regions upriver from
Nausori were scenes of terror as indigenous Fi-
jian nationalists earned out ethnic cleansing op-
erations against Indo-Fijians living in isolated
farmhouses. Some 300 people from Baulevu
village alone were evacuated to refugee camps.
The Syria Monument (1983), at the end of
the Rewa bridge, commemorates the wreck of
the iron sailing ship Syria on Nasilai Point in
May 1884. Of the 439 indentured Indian laborers
aboard ship at the time, 57 were drowned. The
monument tells the story of the rescue of the
others.
Accommodations and Food
The Kings Nausori Hotel (P.O. Box 67, Nau-
sori; tel. 478-833), 99 Kings Rd., beside the
chickenfeed mill, has three grubby rooms with
Copyrighted material
NAUSORI AND VICINITY 215
private bath and hot water at FS25/30 single/dou-
ble. The rooms are attached to the noisy bar
and are rented mostly for "short times" — of in-
terest only to people on the make. Due to li-
censing restrictions, women are not admitted to
the hotel bar.
A far nicer drinking place is the Whistling Duck
Pub, a block from the bus station in the center of
town (ask directions). Upstairs in the adjacent
building is Windies Corner Restaurant where
you can get cold beer with your inexpensive cur-
ries (FS3). It's also a good place for a coffee.
From Nausori
Local buses to the airport (F$0.50) and Suva
(F$1 .35) are fairly frequent, with the last bus to
Suva at 2200. You can also catch Sunbeam
Transport express buses to Lautoka from Nau-
sori at 0715, 0855, 1240, 1405. and 1745 (246
km, 5.5 hours, F$1 1.70).
AROUND NAUSORI
Rewa Delta
Take a bus from Nausori to Nakelo Landing to
explore the heavily populated Rewa River Delta.
Many outboards leave from Nakelo to take vil-
lagers to their riverside homes and passenger
fares are around a dollar for short trips. Larger
boats leave sporadically from Nakelo for Levuka,
Gau. and Koro, but finding one would be pure
chance. Some also depart from nearby Waini-
bokasi Landing.
At Naililili in the delta French Catholic mis-
sionaries built St. Joseph's Church of limestone
in 1905 complete with stained glass windows.
Wilderness Ethnic Adventure Fiji (P.O. Box
1389, Suva; tel. 315-730. fax 300-584) runs oc-
casional half-day boat tours of the Rewa Delta,
with stops at Naililili. and at Nasilai village, where
Fijian pottery is still made. The schedule is ir-
regular, so call for information.
Bau Island
Bau, a tiny, eight-hectare island just east of Viti
Levu, has a special place in Fiji's history as this
was the seat of High Chief Cakobau. who used
European cannons and muskets to subdue most
of western Fiji in the 1850s. At its pinnacle Bau
had a population of 3.000. hundreds of war ca-
noes guarded its waters, and over 20 temples
TANOA- CANNIBAL KING
OF BAU
Tanoa was about 65 years old in 1840 when
the U.S. Explonng Expedition, under Lt. Charles
Wilkes, toured Fiji. His rise to power threw the
island into several years of strife, as Tanoa
had to do away with virtually every minor chief
who challenged his right to rule. With long col-
orful pennants hung from the mast and thou-
sands of Cypraea ovula shells decorating the
hull, his 30-meter outrigger canoe was the
fastest in the region. One of Tanoa s favorite
sports was overtaking and ramming smaller
canoes at sea. The survivors were then fair
game for whoever could catch and keep them.
At feasts where most nobles were expected
to provide a pig, Tanoa always furnished a
human body. Wilkes included this sketch of
Tanoa in volume three of the Expedition's mon-
umental Narrative, published in 1845.
216 SUVA AND VICINITY
stood on the island's central plain. After the Bat-
tle of Verata on Viti Levu in 1 839, Cakobau and
his father Tanoa presented 260 bodies of men,
women, and children to their closest friends and
allied chiefs for gastronomical purposes. Fifteen
years after this slaughter, Cakobau converted
to Christianity and prohibited cannibalism on
Bau. In 1867 he became a sovereign, crowned
by European traders and planters desiring a sta-
ble government in Fiji to protect their interests.
Sights of Bau
The great stone slabs that form docks and sea-
walls around much of the island once accom-
modated Bau's fleet of war canoes. The graves
of the Cakobau family and many of the old chiefs
lie on the hilltop behind the school. The large,
sturdy stone church located near the provincial
onices was tne tirst unnstian cnurcn in riji. insioe
its nearty one-meter-thick walls, just in front of the
altar, is the old sacrificial stone once used for
human sacrifices, today the baptismal font. Now
painted white, this font was once known as King
Cakobau's "skull crusher" and it's said a thou-
sand brains were splattered against it. Across
from the church are huge ancient trees and the
thatched Council House on the site of the one-
time temple of the war god Cagawalu. The fam-
ily of the late Sir George Cakobau, governor-
general of Fiji from 1 973-83, has a large tradi-
tional-style home on the island. You can see
everything on the island in an hour or so.
Getting There
Take the Bau bus (five daily, F$0.70) from Nau-
sori to Bau Landing where there are outboards to
cross over to the island. Be aware that Bau is not
considered a tourist attraction, and from time to
time visitors are prevented from going to the is-
land. It's important to get someone to invite you
across, which they'll do willingly if you show a
genuine interest in Fijian history. Like most Fi-
jians, the inhabitants of Bau are friendly people.
Bring a big bundle of waka for the turaga-ni-
koro, and ask permission very politely to be
shown around. There could be some confusion
about who's to receive the sevusevu, however,
as everyone on Bau is a chief! The more re-
spectable your dress and demeanor, the better
your chances of success. If you're told to contact
the Ministry of Fijian Affairs in Suva, just depart
gracefully as that's only their way of saying no.
After all, it's up to them. Alternatively, you get a
good close look at Bau from the Leleuvia Island
Resort shuttle service.
viwa isiana
Before Cakobau adopted Christianity in 1854,
Methodist missionaries working for this effect
resided on Viwa Island, just across the water
from Bau. Here the first Fijian New Testament
was printed in 1 847; Rev. John Hunt, who did the
translation, lies buried in the graveyard beside
the church that bears his name.
Viwa is a good alternative if you aren't invited
to visit Bau itself. To reach the island, hire an
outboard at Bau Landing. If you're lucky, you'll be
able to join some locals who are going. A single
Fijian village stands on the island.
Toberua Island Resort (Michael & Caz Dennis,
P.O. Box 567, Suva; tel. 472-777 or 302-356, fax
472-888), on a tiny reef island off the east tip of Viti
Levu, caters to upmarket honeymooners, families,
and professionals. Created in 1968, this was one
of Fiji's first luxury outer-island resorts. The 14
thatched bure are designed in the purest Fijian
style, yet it's all very luxurious and the small size
means peace and quiet. Compared to what
places like Vatulele, Turtle Island, and Wakaya
charge, the tariff is very reasonable at F$41 07480
single/double, plus F$98 pp for three gourmet
meals and F$70 for boat transfers. Two children
under 16 sharing with adults are accommodat-
ed free and they're fed for half price or less. Baby-
sitters are F$25 a day or FS10 an evening. To-
berua is outside eastern Viti Levu's wet belt, so it
doesn't get a lot of rain as nearby Suva, and
weather permitting, meals are served outdoors.
Don't expect tennis courts or a golf course at
Toberua, though believe it or not, there's tropical
golfing on the reef at low tide! (Nine holes from
90-180 meters, course par 27, clubs and balls
provided free.) Sportfishing is F$50 an hour and
scuba diving F$88/1 65 for one/two tanks. Mas-
sage is F$55 an hour, or F$35 for a half-hour
foot massage. All other activities are free, in-
cludina snorkelina sailina windsurfina and boat
trips to a bird sanctuary or mangrove forest. A
swimming pool is provided. Launch transfers
are from Nakelo landing.
Copyrighted material
NORTHWEST OF NAUSORI 217
NORTHERN VITI LEVU
NORTHWEST OF NAUSORI
Vunidawa
If you have a few days to spare, consider ex-
ploring the untouristed river country northwest of
Nausori. The main center of Naitasiri Province is
Vunidawa on the Wainimala River, a big village
with four stores, a hospital, a post office, a police
station, two schools, and a provincial office.
There are five buses a day except Sunday from
Suva to Vunidawa. but no bus connection to Ko-
rovou or Monasavu.
Go for a swim in the river or borrow a horse to
ride around the countryside. Stroll two km down
the road to Waidawara, where there's a free
hourly punt near the point where the Wainibuka
and Wainimala rivers unite to form the mighty
Rewa River. Take a whole day to hike up to
Nairukuruku and Navuniyasi and back.
River-Running
There's an exciting bamboo raft (bilibili) trip through
the Waiqa Gorge between Naitauvoli and Naivuci-
<Q DAVID STANLEY
NORTHERN
VITI LEVU
qCEAN
218 NORTHERN VITI LEVU
ni, two villages on the Cross-Island Highway west
of Vunidawa. Two men with long poles guide
each raft through the frothing rapids as the seated
visitor views towering boulders enveloped in jun-
gle. For the two-hour ride, an individual bilibiliwiW
have to be constructed for you. (There's no way to
get a used bilibili back up to Naitauvoli.)
Raft trips are F$40 pp, and unless you've
rented a car, it will probably be necessary to
spend the night at Naitauvoli. If you do stay
overnight, a sevusevu and monetary contribution
to your hosts are expected in addition to the
F$40 fee. No trips are made on Sunday, so don't
arrive on a Saturday. One Tacirua Transport
bus a day (except Sunday) departs Suva for
Naivucini at 1455 (F$3.50); once there you'd
have to look for a carrier on to Naitauvoli. In
Suva, you may be able to arrange the above as
a three-night package tour (F$140) by calling
Mikaele Funaki (tel. 387-951 or 381-391).
THE TRANS-VITI LEVU TREK
Experienced hikers can consider doing the
rugged two-day trek from the Cross-Island High-
way to Wainimakutu, up and down jungle river
valleys through the rainforest. It will take a strong,
fast hiker about three hours from Balea on the
highway to Nasava, then another four over the
ridge to Wainimakutu. The Trans- Viti Levu Trek
passes through several large Fijian villages and
gives you a good cross section of village life.
On this traditional route, you'll meet people
going down the track on horseback or on foot.
Since you must cross the rivers innumerable
times, this trek is probably impossible for visi-
tors during the rainy season (December to April),
although the locals still manage to do it. If it's
been raining, sections of the trail become a quag-
mire, stirred up by horses' hooves. Hiking boots
aren't much use here; you'd be better off with
shorts and an old pair of running shoes in which
to wade across the rivers. There are many re-
freshing places to swim along the way. Some of
the villages have small trade stores, but you're
better off carrying your own food, and pack some
yaqona as well. You can always give it away if
someone invites you in.
But remember, you aren't the first to undertake
this walk; the villagers have played host to trekkers
many times and some previous hikers have not
shown much consideration to local residents along
the track. Unless you have been specifically invit-
ed, do not presume automatic hospitality. If a vil-
lager provides food or a service, be prepared to
offer adequate payment. This applies equally to the
bigatoka niver I rek, oescnDec later.
The Route
Bus service on the Cross-Island Highway from
Suva to Nadarivatu was interrupted in 1993 by
Hurricane Keno, which destroyed the bridge at
Lutu just beyond Balea, the Trans- Viti Levu trail-
head. Buses now go only as far as Lutu, leaving
Suva Monday-Saturday at 1330 (F$5). The Lutu
bus could drop you at Balea, otherwise large
carrier trucks to Namosi and Lutu (F$5-7 pp)
park near Foodtown, comer of Robertson Road
and Struan Street near Suva Market, and most
depart around midday.
From Balea walk down to the Wainimala
River, which must be crossed three times be-
fore you reach the bank opposite Sawanikula.
These crossings can be dangerous and almost
impossible in the rainy season, in which case
it's better to stop and wait for some local people
who might help you across. From Sawanikula
it's not far to Korovou, a fairly large village with
a clinic and two stores. Between Korovou and
Nasava you cross the Wainimala River 1 4 times,
but it's easier because you're farther upstream.
Try to reach Nasava on the first day. If you sleep
at Korovou you'll need an early start and a brisk
pace to get to the first village south of the divide
before nightfall on the second day.
From Nasava, follow the course of the Wai-
somo Creek up through a small gorge and past
a waterfall. You zigzag back and forth across
the creek all the way up almost to the divide.
After a steep incline you cross to the south coast
watershed. There's a clearing among the bam-
boo groves on top where you could camp, but
there's no water. Before Wainimakutu (Nasau)
the scenery gets better as you enter a wide val-
ley with Mt. Naitaradamu (1 ,152 meters) behind
you and the jagged outline of the unsealed Ko-
robasabasaga Range to your left. Wainimakutu
Copyrighted material
NORTHERN VITI LEVU 219
is a large village with two stores and bus ser-
vice to Suva twice a day (Mon.-Fri. at 0600 and
1300). This fact makes it wise to begin your trek
early in the week in order to avoid getting stuck
here on a weekend.
Namosi
The bus from Wainimakutu to Suva goes via
Namosi. spectacularly situated below massive
Mt. Voma (927 meters), with sheer stone cliffs
on all sides. You can climb Mt. Voma in a day
from Namosi for a sweeping view of much of
Viti Levu. It's steep but not too difficult. Allow
at least four hours up and down (guides can be
hired at Namosi village). Visit the old Catholic
church at Namosi.
There are low-grade copper deposits esti-
mated at one-half million tons at the foot of the
Korobasabasaga Range, which Rupert Brooke
called the "Gateway to Hell," 14 km north of
Namosi by road. No mining has begun due to de-
pressed world prices of copper and high pro-
duction costs, though feasibility studies continue.
A 1979 study indicated that an investment of
F$1 billion would be required.
village on the Trans-Viti Levu trek
NORTHERN VITI LEVU
Northern Viti Levu has far more spectacular
landscapes than the southern side of the island,
and if you can only travel one-way by road be-
tween Suva and Nadi, you're better off taking
the northern route. Kings Road is now paved
from Suva north to Korovou, then again from
Dama to Lautoka, and between Korovou and
Dama the 62-km gravel road is smooth. (This
section should already have been paved, but
Fiji's current political situation has put many de-
velopment projects on hold.) If driving, check
your fuel before heading this way. Since Kings
Road follows the Wainibuka River from Wailotua
village almost all the way to Viti Levu Bay, you
get a good glimpse of the island s lush interior,
and the north coast west of Rakiraki is breath-
taking. In years gone by, the Fijians would use
bamboo rafts to transport their bundles of ba-
nanas down the Wainibuka to markets in Vu-
nidawa and Nausori, and the road is still called
the "Banana Highway." These days many visitors
stop for a sojourn on Nananu-i-Ra Island off
Rakiraki, and intrepid hikers occasionally trek
south down the Sigatoka River from the hill sta-
tion of Nadarivatu.
Korovou and Beyond
A good paved highway runs 31 km north from
Nausori to Korovou, a small town of around 350
souls on the east side of Viti Levu at the junction of
Kings Road and the road to Natovi, terminus of the
Ovalau and Vanua Levu ferries. Its crossroads
position in the heart of Tailevu Province makes
Korovou an important stop for buses plying the
northern route around the island. Sunbeam Trans-
port express buses leave Korovou for Lautoka at
0800. 0940, 1325, 1500, and 1830 (215 km, five
hours), with local buses departing at 0920 and
220 NORTHERN VITI LEVU
0950 (7.5 hours). (Be aware that because "ko-
rovou" means "new village," there are many places
called that in Fiji — don't mix them up.)
The Tailevu Hotel (P.O. Box 189, Korovou;
tel. 430-028), on a hill overlooking the river just
across the bridge from Korovou, has 14 rooms
with bath and fridge at F$28/45 single/double
including breakfast, and four cottages with cook-
ing facilities at FS50 for up to four persons.
Cheaper backpacker accommodation may be
available if you call and ask, otherwise camp-
ing is F$8 a night. This colonial-style hotel fea-
tures a large bar and restaurant, and a dance
band plays on Friday and Saturday nights. The
Tailevu makes a good base for visiting the sur-
rounding area.
For a sweeping view of the entire Tailevu
area, climb Mt. Tova (647 meters) in a day from
Silana village, eight km northwest of Naqatawa.
The large dairy farms along the highway just
west of Korovou were set up after World War I.
Dorothy's Waterfall on the Waimaro River, a
kilometer east of Dakuivuna village, is 10 km
west of Korovou. Uru's Snack Bar overlooking
the falls is a nice picnic spot if you have your
own transportation. At Wailotua No. 1 , 20 km
west of Korovou, is a large snake cave right
beside the village and easily accessible from
the road. One stalactite in the cave is shaped
like a six-headed snake (admission F$5). At
Dama the paved road starts again and continues
45 km northwest to Rakiraki. (As you drive along
this road you may be flagged down by Fijians
emphatically inviting you to visit their village. At
the end of the tour you'll be asked to sign the vis-
itors book and make a financial contribution. If
you decide to stop, don't bother trying to pre-
sent anyone with kava roots as hard cash is all
they're after.)
Ra Province
The old Catholic Church of St. Francis Xavier
at Naiserelagi, on a hilltop above Navunibitu
Catholic School, on Kings Road about 25 km
southeast of Rakiraki, was beautifully decorated
with frescoes by Jean Chariot in 1962-63. Typi-
cal Fijian motifs such as the tabua, tanoa, and
yaqona blend in the powerful composition be-
hind the altar. Father Pierre Chanel, who was
martyred on Futuna Island between Fiji and
Samoa in 1841 , appears on the left holding the
weapon that killed him, a war club. Christ and the
Madonna are portrayed in black. The church is
worth stopping to see, and provided it's not too
late in the day, you'll find an onward bus. Flying
Prince Transport (tel. 694-346) runs buses from
Vaileka to Naiserelagi at 1200, 1345, 1430, 1545,
and 1600 (F$1 .70), otherwise all the local Suva
buses stop there. A taxi from Vaileka might cost
F$20. At Nanukuloa village just north of here
is the headquarters of Ra Province.
RAKIRAKI
This part of northern Viti Levu is known as Raki-
raki, but the main town is called Vaileka (popu-
lation 5,000). The Penang Sugar Mill was erect-
ed here in 1881. The mill is about a kilometer
trom tne main business section or vaileka, be-
yond the golf course. The sugar is loaded aboard
ships at Ellington Wharf, connected to the mill by
an 1 1-km cane railway. There are three banks
and a large produce market in Vaileka, but most
visitors simply pass through on their way to
Nananu-i-Ra Island.
Accommodations and Food
The Rakiraki Hotel (P.O. Box 31 , Vaileka; tel.
694-101, fax 694-545), on Kings Road a cou-
ple of kilometers north of Vaileka, has 36 a/c
rooms with fridge and private bath at F$99 single
or double, F$123 triple in the new blocks, and 10
rather musty fan-cooled rooms at F$35/44/55
single/double/triple in the old wing. Reduced
rates are sometimes offered on the air-condi-
tioned rooms. There are no communal cooking
facilities. The reception area, restaurant, and
old wooden wing occupy the core of the original
hotel dating back to 1945; the two-story accom-
modations blocks were added much later. Today
the Rakiraki belongs to the Tanoa hotel chain.
Extensive gardens surround the hotel, and the
Rakiraki's outdoor bowling green draws middle-
aged lawn bowling enthusiasts from Australia
and New Zealand. Those folks like old-fash-
ioned "colonial" touches like the typed daily menu
featuring British-Indian curry dishes (F$11-16
for entrees), and gin and tonic in the afternoon.
The manager can arrange for you to play at the
nearby nine-hole golf course owned by the Fiji
Sugar Corporation (green fees are just F$5, but
Copyrighted material
NORTHERN VITI LEVU 221
Copyrighted material
222 NORTHERN VITI LEVU
you must bring your own clubs). The Tui Ra (or
king of Ra) lives in the village across the highway
from the hotel. Only the local or "stage" buses will
drop you off on Kings Road right in front of the
hotel (the express buses will take you to Vaileka).
A taxi from Vaileka will be F$2.
The upmarket Wananavu Beach Resort (John
Gray. P.O. Box 305, Vaileka; tel. 694-433, fax
694-499), on a point facing Nananu-i-Ra Island,
four km off Kings Road, is near Viti Levu's north-
ernmost tip. There are 15 a/c bungalows costing
FS21 5-286 single or double— reasonable value
for the quality. No cooking facilities are provid-
ed, but each room does have a fridge. Adjacent to
the resort are three two-bedroom villas with
kitchens renting for F$375 for up to four persons.
The Nananu-i-Ra dive shops offer scuba diving
from the Wananavu, and a variety of other water
sports are available. The resort has a swimming
pool, tennis court, and small brown beach.
A number of restaurants near the bus station
at Vaileka serve Chinese meals. At F$6 a plate,
Gafoor & Sons (tel. 694-225) is the most ex-
pensive as the Sunbeam express buses stop
there. Rakiraki Lodge (tel. 694-336) on the west
side of the square serves some excellent curry
meals for F$4 from a glass-covered warmer at
the rear counter. The Cosmopolitan Club (tel.
694-330), two blocks from Vaileka bus station, is
the local drinking place.
Transportation
A taxi from Vaileka to Ellington Wharf, where
the Nananu-i-Ra resort launches pick up guests,
will run F$10. Otherwise take a local bus east on
Kings Road to the tumoff and walk two km down
to the wharf. Some express buses won't stop
at the tumoff (ask), but all buses from Lautoka
and Suva stop in Vaileka.
Sunbeam Transport has express buses from
Vaileka to Lautoka (108 km) at 1035, 1230,
1605, 1730, and 2105, and to Suva (157 km) at
0830, 0900, 1100, 1440, and 1850. More fre-
quent local buses also operate.
wesi OT HaKiraki
Right beside Kings Road, just a hundred me-
ters west of the tumoff to Vaileka, is the grave of
Ratu Udreudre, the cannibal king of this region
who is alleged to have consumed 872 corpses.
A rocky hill named Uluinavatu (stone head), a
few kilometers west of Vaileka, is reputed to be
the jumping-off point for the disembodied spirits
of the ancient Fijians. A fortified village and tem-
ple once stood on its summit. Uluinavatu's tri-
angular shape is said to represent a man, while
a similar-looking small island offshore resem-
bles a woman with flowing hair.
The Nakauvadra Range, towering south of
Rakiraki, is the traditional home of the Fijian ser-
pent-god Degei, who is said to dwell in a cave on
the summit of Mt. Uluda (866 meters). This
"cave" is little more than a cleft in the rock. To
climb the Nakauvadra Range, which the local
Fijians look upon as their primeval homeland,
permission must be obtained from the chief of
Vatukacevaceva village who will provide guides.
A sevusevu must be presented.
NANANU-I-RA ISLAND
This small 355-hectare island, three km off the family-style resorts and a 219-hectare planta-
northernmost tip of Viti Levu, is a good place to tion on the island.
spend some time amid tranquility and beauty. The northern two-thirds of Nananu-i-Ra Is-
The climate is dry and sunny, and there are land, including all of the land around Kontiki Is-
great beaches, reefs, snorkeling, walks, sun- land Lodge, is owned by Mrs. Louise Harper of
sets, and moonrises over the water — only roads southern California, who bought it for a mere
are missing. Seven or eight separate white sandy US$200,000 in 1 966 (she also owns a sizable
beaches lie scattered around the island, and it's chunk of Proctor & Gamble back in the States),
big enough that you won't feel confined. In the Today some 22 head of Harper cattle graze be-
early 1 9th century Nananu-i-Ra's original Fijian neath coconuts on the Harper Plantation, and
inhabitants were wiped out by disease and trib- the plantation management actively discourages
al warfare, and an heir sold the island to the Eu- trespassing by tourists. The manager lives in a
ropeans whose descendants now operate small house adjoining Kontiki, and it's common cour-
Copy righted material
NANANU-I-RA ISLAND 223
tesy to ask his permission before climbing the hill
behind the lodge. (At last report, the Harper
Plantation was for sale for US$7 million on
www.fijiestates.com.)
To hike right around Nananu-i-Ra on the
beach takes about four hours of steady going, or
all day if you stop for picnicking and snorkeling.
The thickest section of mangroves is between
Kontiki and Mokusigas Island Resort, on the
west side of the island, and this stretch should be
covered at low tide. However you do it, at some
point you'll probably have to take off your shoes
and wade through water just over your ankles or
scramble over slippery rocks, but it's still a very
nice walk. The entire coastline is public, but only
as far as two meters above the high tide line.
Avoid becoming stranded by high tide and forced
to cut across Harper land.
An American couple, Edward and Betty Mor-
ris, have lived next to MacDonald's Nananu
Beach Cottages since 1970. They spend four
or five months a year on Nananu-i-Ra, other-
wise they're in San Francisco. Ed is a former
president of the International Brotherhood of
Magicians and he doesn't mind sharing his magic
with visitors, when he feels like it.
Scuba Diving
Ra Divers (Elizabeth and Graham Burnett, P.O.
Box 41 7, Vaileka; tel. 694-51 1 , fax 694-61 1 ) has
been operating on Nananu-i-Ra for 10 years.
They offer scuba diving at FS85/1 50/650 for
one/two/10 tanks, plus F$15 for gear. Night div-
ing is F$100. Snorkelers can go along for F$25
(mask and snorkel supplied). Ra Divers' resort
course costs F$150; full four-day PADI or NAUI
certification is FS600 if you're alone or F$525
pp for two or more. They pick up clients regularly
from all of the resorts. Some of Ra Divers' fa-
vorite sites are Breathtaker, The Amazing Maze,
Dreammakers, and Neptune's Wedding Chapel.
The diving here is only spectacular if you ob-
serve the small details — there's not the profuse
marinelife or huge reefs you'll find elsewhere.
An American named Dan Grenier runs a more
upscale dive operation called Crystal Divers
(P.O. Box 705, Vaileka; tel./fax 694-877) at the
south end of Nananu-i-Ra. Many of Dan's clients
book from overseas via his Internet site, paying
F$1 10/215 for one/two tank dives, plus F$45 a
day for gear (if required). Dan prefers to work
with experienced divers and usually doesn't have
time for certification courses unless a group is in-
terested. His new jet boat Crystal Explorer al-
lows him to offer live-aboard quality diving from
a land-based location. He frequents extraordinary
Bligh Water sites like Black Magic Mountain,
Garden of Eden, Instant Replay, G-6, The Shark
Pit, The Carnival, Purple Haze, and Steve's Wide
Angle, and he's constantly searching for new
locations. His personal service is a definite plus.
Crystal Divers closes for annual leave in January
and February.
Accommodations
Accommodation prices on Nananu-i-Ra have
increased in recent years and the number of
beds is limited. With the island's popularity still
growing it's essential to call ahead to one of the
resorts and arrange to be picked up at Elling-
ton Wharf. None of the innkeepers will accept ad-
ditional guests when they're fully booked and
camping is not allowed. There's no public tele-
phone at Ellington Wharf.
If you want an individual room or bure make
1 00 percent sure one is available, otherwise you
could end up spending quite a few nights in the
dormitory waiting for one to become free. All the
budget places have cooking facilities and a few
also serve dinner, but you should take some fruit
and vegetables from breakfast and lunch, as
shopping possibilities on the island are limited.
There's a market and several supermarkets in
Vaileka where you can buy all the supplies you
need. If you run out, groceries can be ordered
from Vaileka for a small service charge, and both
MacDonald's and Betham's run minimarkets with
a reasonable selection of groceries (including
beer). They also serve hot dogs and other
snacks. Also bring enough cash, as only the
Mokusigas Island Resort accepts credit cards.
Of all the places on Nananu-i-Ra, Kontiki Is-
land Lodge (P.O. Box 87, Vaileka; tel. 694-290)
has more of the feeling of a low-budget resort,
with ample opportunity for group activities. Be-
cause they cater mostly to backpackers, the dor-
mitory guests are treated the same as every-
one else, and the atmosphere is congenial. It's
also ideal if you want to do your own thing, as the
long deserted beach facing One Bay is just a
20-minute walk away. Kontiki is at the unspoiled
north end of the island, with no other resorts or
Copyrighted material
224 NORTHERN VITI LEVU
houses (except the Harper caretaker) nearby.
It's quite popular and on Saturday night they're
always full. Reservations are essential, and call
again the morning before you arrive to make
sure they haven't forgotten you.
fvoniiKi oners tnree moaern seii-caiering oun-
galows, each capable of sleeping four at F$75.
The two double rooms in each bungalow can
be rented individually at F$42/50 single/double.
If you want more privacy, ask for one of the four
rooms in the two thatched duplex bure, which
are FS35/40. The dorm bungalow has four beds
at F$16.50 pp, plus two double rooms at F$40.
Check your mosquito net for holes when you
arrive. All guests have access to fridges and
cooking facilities, but take groceries if you wish to
cook as only a few very basic supplies are sold,
including cold beer. Otherwise just ask for the
daily meal plan, which is F$20 pp. In the evening
the generator runs until 2200.
At the other end of Nananu-i-Ra, a one-hour
walk along the beach at low tide, are three other
inexpensive places to stay, all offering cooking fa-
cilities. They experience more speedboat noise
than Kontiki but are less crowded and perhaps
preferable for a restful holiday. They almost al-
ways have a few free beds in the dorms, but
advance bookings are strongly recommended.
MacDonald's Nananu Beach Cottages
(P.O. Box 140, Vaileka; tel. 694-633) offers three
individual houses with fridge at F$61 single or
double, plus F$9 pp for additional persons,
rooms with shared bath at F$44 double, and
two frve-bunk dormitory rooms at FS17 pp. Cook-
ing facilities are provided in the dorm and a three-
meal package is available at F$33 pp. Mabel
MacDonald's snack bar sells sandwiches and
pizzas as well as groceries, and a Fijian lovo
feast is arranged once a week. It's peaceful and
attractive with a private wharf and pontoon off
their beach. The snorkeling here is good.
Right next to MacDonald's and facing the
same white beach is friendly Betham's Beach
Cottages (Peggy and Oscar Betham, P.O. Box
5, Vaileka; tel./fax 694-132). They have five ce-
ment-block duplex houses, each sleeping up to
six, with rooms at F$75 single or double, F$86
triple. The two mixed dormitories, one with 10
beds and another with six, are F$17 pp. There's
no hot water but cooking facilities and a fridge are
provided. The electric generator is switched off at
2200. Betham's shop also sells groceries and
alcohol, and their beachfront bar serves dinner
(as does the restaurant at MacDonald's). Sport-
ing gear is available, and the Betham's staff
work hard to keep you happy.
Sharing the same high sandy beach with
these two is Charley's Place (Charley and
Louise Anthony, P.O. Box 407, Vaileka; tel. 694-
676) run by a delightful, friendly family. The dor-
mitory building has six beds (F$15 each) in the
same room as the cooking facilities, plus one
double room (F$45). The adjacent bungalow
can sleep up to six people at F$55 for two, plus
F$5 for each additional person. Both buildings
are on a hill and you can watch the sunrise on
one side and the sunset on the other. Charley's
also rents two other houses further down the
beach, each F$50 double.
US$1 00-1 50
The Mokusigas Island Resort (P.O. Box 268,
Vaileka; tel. 694-444, fax 694-404) opened on
Nananu-i-Ra in 1991. The 20 comfortable bun-
galows with fridge are all the same and each ac-
commodates three adults. The price varies ac-
cording to the location with the ocean panorama
units costing FS350/380 double/triple, while la-
goon vista units are FS290/320. The four forest
view bungalows up on the hill near the restau-
rant/bar are FS260/290. Stay five nights and get
the sixth free. The rates include a continental
breakfast and boat transfers, but add 10 percent
tax to all rates. Cooking facilities are not provided
and but you can buy a FS60 pp meal plan. The re-
sort's dive shop is run by Ra Divers. To create a
diving attraction, the 43-meter Papuan Explorer
was scuttled in 25 meters of water, 60 meters off
the 189-meter Mokusigas jetty, which curves out
into tne sneiterea lagoon. I ne snorKenng on ine
wharf is good, especially at low tide, with lots of
coral and fish. Don't be disappointed by the
skimpy little beach facing a mudflat you see when
you first arrive: the mile-long picture-postcard
beach in their brochure is a few minutes away
over the hill on the other side of the island. All
the resort facilities, including the restaurant, bar,
and dive shop, are strictly for house guests only.
At Nadi Airport, bookings can be made through of-
fice No. 25 upstairs from arrivals.
Copyrighted material
NANANU-I-RA ISLAND 225
Getting There
Boat transfers from Ellington Wharf to Nananu-
i-Ra are about F$20 pp round-trip (20 minutes),
though the resorts may levy a surcharge for one
person alone. Check prices when you call to
make your accommodation booking. A taxi to
Ellington Wharf from the express bus stop in
Vaileka is F$10 for the car. Several budget hotels
in Nadi (including the Nadi Downtown Motel,
Sunny Holiday Motel, Holiday Inn, and Kon Tiki
Private Hotel) arrange minibus rides from Nadi di-
rect to Ellington Wharf costing anywhere from
FS20-35 pp depending on where you book,
though it's cheaper to take an express bus from
Lautoka to Vaileka, then a taxi to the landing.
Coming from Nadi, you will have to change
buses in Lautoka.
As you return to Ellington Wharf from Nananu-
i-Ra, taxis will be waiting to whisk you to Vaileka
where you'll connect with the express buses
(share the F$10 taxi fare with other travelers to
cut costs). You could also hike two km out to
the main highway and try to flag down a bus,
but only local buses will stop at this junction.
Patterson Brothers operates a vehicular
ferry between Ellington Wharf and Nabouwalu on
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, a great short-
cut to/from Vanua Levu (F$33 one-way). The
ferry leaves Ellington Wharf at 0630, departing
Nabouwalu for the return at 1030. There's a con-
necting bus to/from Labasa at Nabouwalu (1 12
km). When enough truck traffic has built up, Pat-
terson will run additional services on Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday, so ask. Often you'll be
allowed to spend the night on the boat at Elling-
ton Wharf. Patterson's best customers are large
trucks carrying pine logs from Vanua Levu to
the mills of Lautoka.
Copyrighted material
226 NORTHERN VITI LEVU
NORTHWESTERN VITI LEVU
TAVUA
West of Rakiraki, Kings Road passes the gov-
ernment-run Yaqara Cattle Ranch where Fijian
cowboys keep 5,500 head of cattle and 200
horses on a 7,000-hectare spread enclosed by
an 80-km fence. In 1996 an ultramodern artesian
water bottling plant owned by Canadian busi-
nessman David Gilmour opened here, and plas-
tic bottles of Fiji Water are now the country's
fastest growing export. Tavua (population 2,500),
an important junction on the north coast, is use-
ful mostly as a base for visiting Vatukuola. Of
the three banks in Tavua. the ANZ Bank has a
Visa/MasterCard ATM.
The two-story Tavua Hotel (P.O. Box 81,
Tavua; tel. 680-522, fax 680-390), an old wood-
en colonial-style building on a hill, a five-minute
walk from the bus stop, has 1 1 rooms with bath
at F$33/44 single/double (the one a/c room is
F$66). Ask about dormitory accommodations.
Meals are F$10 here. This hotel looks like it's
going to be noisy due to the large bar down-
stairs, but all is silent after the bar and restaurant
close at 2100. It's a bit rundown but okay for
one night and a good base from which to ex-
plore Vatukoula.
TAVUA
SUNBEAM
TRANSPORT
To Rakiraki
. foootown
"supermarket
HOT BREAD
TSHOP
• FARMERS CLUB
To Ba
SHEU
STATION
F> BUS STOP * MINER'S
a WINE ft DINE
■
MARKET
WESTPAC MOBIL
BANK STATION
HINDU
TEMPU
TAVUA
CLUB
MOSQUE
ROY'S
▼ WINE & DINE
POST
OFFICE
TOWN
COO*,
■
POUCE
STATION
GARVEY
PARK
SPORTS
FIELD
TAVUA .
HOTEL
t To Vatukoula
NORTHWESTERN VITI LEVU 227
Roy's Wine & Dine near the post office
serves a lunch of cassava and fish for under
F$2. Socialize at the Tavua Farmers Club (tel.
680-236) on Kings Road toward Ba, or the more
elitist Tavua Club (tel. 680-265) on Nasivi Street.
Transportation
Sunbeam Transport has express buses from
Tavua to Suva (198 km) at 0725, 0750, 1000,
1340, and 1750, and to Lautoka (67 km) at
1 130, 1320, 1655, 1825, and 2200. Local buses
from Tavua to Vaileka (41 km), Vatukoula (8
km), or Lautoka are frequent, but the bus service
from Tavua to Nadrau via Nadarivatu has been
suspended.
VATUKOULA
In 1932 an old Australian prospector named Bill
Borthwick discovered gold at Vatukoula, eight
km south of Tavua. Two years later Borthwick
and his partner, Peter Costello, sold their stake to
an Australian company, and in 1935 the Em-
peror Gold Mine opened. In 1977 there was a
major industrial action at the mine and the gov-
ernment had to step in to prevent it from closing.
In 1983 the Western Mining Corporation of Aus-
tralia bought a 20 percent share and took over
management. Western modernized the facili-
ties and greatly increased production, but after
another bitter strike in 1991 they sold out, and the
mine is now operated by the Emperor Gold Min-
ing Company once again. The 700 miners who
walked out in 1991 have been replaced by non-
union labor.
The ore comes up from the underground area
through the Smith Shaft near Top Gate." It's
washed, crushed, and roasted, then fed into a
flotation process and the foundry where gold
and silver are separated from the ore. Count-
ing both underground operations and an open
pit, the mine presently extracts 1 25,000 ounces
of gold annually from 600,000 metric tons of ore.
A ton of silver is also produced each year and
waste rock is crushed into gravel and sold. Since
1935 the Emperor has produced five million
ounces of gold worth over a billion U.S. dollars at
today's prices. Proven recoverable ore reserves
at Vatukoula are sufficient for another 20 years of
mining, with another four million ounces awaiting
extraction underground. Low world gold prices
have forced the company to stop exploration
and reduce capital replacement to cut costs. In
1 999 the Smith Shaft was deepened to allow
easier access to high-grade ores.
The Emperor is Fiji's largest private employer
and Vatukoula is a typical company town of
7,000 inhabitants, with education and social ser-
vices under the jurisdiction of the mine. The
2,000 miners employed here, most of them in-
digenous Fijians, live in World War ll-style Quon-
set huts in racially segregated ghettos. In con-
trast, tradespeople and supervisors, usually Ro-
tumans and part-Fijians, enjoy much better living
conditions, and senior staff and management
live in colonial-style comfort. Women are forbid-
den by law from working underground. Sensi-
tive to profitability, the Emperor has tenaciously
resisted the unionization of its workforce.
To arrange a guided tour of the mine you must
contact the Public Relations Officer, Emperor
Gold Mining Co. Ltd. (Private Mail Bag, Vatukuo-
la; tel. 680-477, fax 680-779), at least one week
in advance (although at last report the tours
were suspended). It's not possible to just show
up and be admitted. Minibuses marked "Lolo-
ma" go from Tavua to Vatukoula every half hour,
and even if you don't get off, it's well worth mak-
ing the roundtrip to "Bottom Gate" to see the
varying classes of company housing, to catch
a glimpse of the nine-hole golf course and open
pit, and to enjoy the lovely scenery. Rosie The
Travel Service in Nadi runs gold mine tours
(F$52 without lunch), but these do not enter the
mine itself and you can see almost as much
from the regular bus for FS0.50 each way. Cold
beer is available at the Bowling Club (tel. 680-
719; Mon.-Fri. 1600-2300, Sat. 1000-2300,
Sun. 1600-2100) near Bottom Gate, where
meals are served Monday-Saturday 1600-2100.
BA
The large Indo-Fijian town of Ba (population
15,000) on the Ba River is seldom visited by
tourists. As the attractive mosque in the center of
town suggests, nearly half of Fiji's Muslims live
in Ba Province. Small fishing boats depart from be-
hind the Shell service station opposite the mosque,
and it's fairly easy to arrange to go along on all-
Copyrighted material
228 NORTHERN VITI LEVU
night trips. A wide belt of man-
groves covers much of the river's
delta. Ba's original town site was
on the low hill where the post of-
fice is today, and the newer
lower town is often subjected to
flooding. Ba is well known in Fiji
for the large Rarawai Sugar Mill,
opened by the Colonial Sugar
Refining Co. in 1886.
The Ba Hotel (P.O. Box 29,
Ba; tel. 674-000, fax 670-559),
1 1 0 Bank St., has 1 3 a/c rooms
with bath at F$44/55 single/dou-
ble — very pleasant with a func-
tioning swimming pool, bar, and
restaurant.
Of the many places along
Main Street serving Indian and
Chinese meals, your best
choice is probably Chand's
Restaurant (tel. 670-822), just
across the bridge from the
mosque. Their upstairs dining
room (Mon.-Sat. 0800-2100,
Sun. 1 100-1500) serves an In-
dian vegetarian thali for F$5.50, other meals
F$4-9. Chand's fast food center downstairs is
great for a fast hot cup of tea. coffee, or milo.
Jolly Good (tel. 671-885), across Main St. from
the bus station and toward town, is clean and
pleasant with main dishes around F$4.
If you're spending the night here check out
the Town Square Cinema (tel. 674-048) on
Tabua Place just up the hill from the hotel. For
drinks it's the Farmers Club (tel. 675-51 1), on
Bank St. near the Ba Hotel, or the Central Club
(tel. 674-348) on Tabua Place.
The ANZ Bank next to the Farmers Club has
a Visa/MasterCard ATM outside facing Bank
Street. Otherwise try Money Exchange
(Mon.-Fri. 0800-1700, Sat. 0830-1300), around
the corner on Main Street.
Important express buses leaving Ba daily are
the regular Sunbeam Transport buses to Suva
via Tavua at 0655, 0715, 0915, 1300. and 1715
(227 km, five hours), and the one Pacific Trans-
port bus to Suva via Sigatoka at 0615 (259 km,
six hours, F$12.15). Local buses to Tavua (29
km, F$1 .35) and Lautoka (38 km, F$1 .55) are
frequent. Buses to Navala are at 1 200 and 1 71 5
daily except Sunday (F$1 .90).
The surgeonfish gets its name
from the knife-like spines just
in front of its tail. Extreme care
must be taken in handling the
fish to avoid severe cuts.
INTO THE INTERIOR 229
INTO THE INTERIOR
Nausori Highlands
A rough unpaved road runs 25 km southeast
from Ba to Navala, a large traditional village on
the sloping right bank of the Ba River. It then
climbs another 20 km south to Bukuya village in
the Nausori Highlands, from whence other grav-
el roads continue south into the Sigatoka Valley
and 40 km due west to Nadi. The Nadi road
passes Vaturu Dam, which supplies Nadi with
fresh water. Gold strikes near Vaturu may herald
a mining future for this area, if the water catch-
ment can be protected. The powerful open
scenery of the highlands makes a visit well
worthwhile.
Navala is one of the last fully thatched vil-
lages remaining on Viti Levu, its bure standing
picturesquely above the Ba River against the
surrounding hills. When water levels are right,
white-water rafters shoot the rapids through the
scenic Ba River Gorge near here, and guided
hiking or horseback riding can also be arranged.
Sightseers are welcome, and it's possible to
spend the night in the village for a reasonable
amount, but one must pay a F$10 pp admis-
sion/photography fee toward village develop-
ment. If spending the night, also take along a
sevusevu for the turaga-ni-koro. Access is fairly
easy on the two buses a day that arrive from
Ba. By rental vehicle you'll probably need a
4WD. During the rainy season, the Navala road
can be flooded and impassable.
Several companies off tours to Navala village.
Fantastic Sights of Fiji (tel. 500-425) charges
F$145 from the Coral Coast or Nadi. Victory
Tours (tel. 700-332 or 721 -295) asks only F$90
from Nadi, but village entry fees and tax are
extra. Your best bet is probably Discover Fiji
Tours (tel. 450-180), which combines white-
water rafting on the Upper Ba River with a visit to
Navala at F$145, including lunch, transfers from
Nadi or the Coral Coast, and rafting gear.
Bukuya in the center of western Viti Levu's
highland plateau is less traditional than Navala
and some of the only thatched bure in the village
are those used by visitors on hiking/village stay
tours organized by the backpacker travel agen-
cies in Nadi. If interested, ask for Peni at the
Handicraft Market in Nadi. Reader Andy Bray
of Hampshire, England, sent us this:
Petii's tour is very much what you make of it.
We got three good meals a day, transportation
a wild pig bunt, eel fishing, a waterfall trip,
visits to neighboring villages, and various
river and jungle treks. If you're content to
settle into tlx typically slow Fijian pace and be
satisfied with maybe one good activity a day,
you 'U enjoy it. If you 're used to hot running
water, electricity, and constant activity, it's
not for you. J found it helped to gently badger
the hosts so they wouldn 't forget we had ac-
tivities in mind.
Victory Tours (tel. 700-332 or 721-295) in down-
town Nadi offers day tours to a waterfall in the
Nausori Highlands at F$80 pp plus tax including
lunch. Rosie The Travel Service (tel. 702-726).
opposite the Nadi Handicraft Market and at nu-
merous other locations, operates full-day hiking
tours to the Nausori Highlands daily except Sun-
day at FS66 including lunch, tax, and a souvenir
sulu. The Tui Magodro, or high chief of the re-
gion, resides in Bukuya. During the Colo War
of 1876. Bukuya was a center of resistance to
colonial rule.
Nadarivatu
An important forestry station is at Nadarivatu, a
small settlement above Tavua. Its 900-meter al-
titude means a cool climate and a fantastic
panorama of the north coast from the ridge. Be-
side the road right in front of the Forestry Train-
ing Center is The Stone Bowl, official source
of the Sigatoka River, and a five-minute walk
from the Center is the Governor General's
Swimming Pool where a small creek has been
dammed. Go up the creek a short distance to the
main pool, though it's dry much of the year and
the area has not been maintained. The trail to the
fire tower atop Mt. Lomalagi (Mt. Heaven) be-
gins nearby, a one-hour hike each way. The
tower itself has collapsed and is no longer
climbable, but the forest is lovely and you may
Copyrighted material
230 NORTHERN VITI LEVU
see and hear many native birds. Pine forests
cover the land.
In its heyday Nadarivatu was a summer retreat
for expatriates from the nearby Emperor Gold
Mine at Vatukoula. and their large bungalow still
serves as a Mine Resthouse. The resthouse
is rented out to the public only in exceptional
circumstances, and there's a charge of F$100 a
night for the whole house (up to 10 people). For
information contact the Public Relations Officer
(tel. 680-477, fax 680-779) at Vatukoula. Visi-
tors with tents are allowed to camp at the
Forestry Training Center. Ask permission at the
Ministry of Forests office as soon as you arrive.
Some canned foods are available at the can-
teen opposite the Mine Resthouse, but bring
food from Tavua. Cabin crackers are handy.
Only carriers operate between Tavua and
Nadarivatu, leaving Tavua in the afternoon and
Nadarivatu in the morning— a spectacular one-
and-a-half-hour ride. Ask the market women in
Tavua where and when to catch the trucks. They
often originate/terminate in Nadrau village where
you might also be able to stay (take along a se-
vusevu if you're thinking of this). It's also possi-
Die to mtcn.
Mount Victoria
The two great rivers of Fiji, the Rewa and the
Sigatoka, originate on the slopes of Mt. Victoria
(Tomanivi), highest mountain in the country
(1,323 meters). The climb begins near the
bridge at Navai. 10 km southeast of Nadari-
vatu. Turn right up the hillside a few hundred
meters down the jeep track, then climb up
through native bush on the main path all the
way to the top. Beware of misleading sign-
boards. There are three small streams to cross;
no water after the third. On your way down,
stop for a swim in the largest stream. There's a
flat area on top where you could camp — if
you're willing to take your chances with Buli,
the devil king of the mountain. Local guides
(F$1 0) are available, but allow about six hours
for the round-trip. Bright red epiphytic orchids
(Dendrobium moh-li-anum) are sometimes in
full bloom. Mount Victoria is on the divide be-
tween the wet and dry sides of Viti Levu, and
from the summit you should be able to distin-
guish the contrasting vegetation in these zones.
Monasavu Hydroelectric Project
The largest development project ever undertak-
en in Fiji, this massive F$230 million scheme at
Monasavu, on the Nadrau Plateau near the cen-
ter of Viti Levu, took 1 ,500 men six years to com-
plete. An earthen dam, 82 meters high, was built
across the Nanuku River to supply water to the
four 20-megawatt generating turbines at the
Wailoa Power Station on the Wailoa River, 625
meters below. The dam forms a lake 17 km long,
and the water drops through a 5.4-km tunnel at a
45-degree angle, one of the steepest engineered
dips in the world. Overhead transmission lines
carry power from Wailoa to Suva and Lautoka. At
present Monasavu is filling 95 percent of Viti Le-
vu's needs, representing an annual savings of
F$22 million on imported diesel oil.
The Cross-Island Highway that passes the
site was built to serve the dam project. Bus ser-
vice ended when the project was completed and
the construction camps closed in 1 985. Traffic of
all kinds was halted in 1 993 when a hurricane
took out the bridge at Lutu, although 4WD vehi-
cles can still ford the river when water levels are
low. At the present time buses go only from
Tavua to Nadrau and from Suva to Naivucini,
although occasional carriers go farther. In 1998
there were tense scenes near the dam as
landowners set up roadblocks to press claims for
land flooded in the early 1980s. In July 2000,
during the hostage crisis at Fiji's parliament,
landowners occupied the dam and cut off power
to much of Viti Levu for almost a month. At last
report, lawyers for the landowners were de-
manding FS52.8 million in compensation from
the Fiji Electricity Authority.
THE SIGATOKA RIVER TREK
One of the most rewarding trips you can make on
Viti Levu is the three-day hike south across the
center of the island from Nadarivatu to Koroievu
on the Sigatoka River. Northbound the way is
much harder to find. Many superb campsites
can be found along the trail, and luckily this trek
isn't included in the Australian guidebooks, so the
area isn't overrun by tourists. Have a generous
bundle of waka ready in case you're invited to
stay overnight in a village. (Kava for presenta-
Copy righted material
INTO THE INTERIOR 231
THE SIG ATOKA
RIVER TREK
tions on subsequent days can be purchased at
villages along the way.) Set out from Nadari-
vatu early in the week, so you won't suffer the
embarrassment of arriving in a village on a Sun-
day. Excellent topographical maps of the entire
route can be purchased at the Lands and Survey
Department in Suva.
Follow the dirt road south from Nadarivatu to
Nagatagata where you should fill your canteen
as the trail ahead is rigorous and there's no
water to be found. From Nagatagata walk south
about one hour. When you reach the electric
high-power line, where the road turns right and
begins to descend toward Koro, look for the well-
worn footpath ahead. The trail winds along the
ridge, and you can see as far as Ba. The
primeval torests that once covered this part ot riji
were destroyed long ago by the slash-and-bum
agricultural techniques of the Fijians.
When you reach the pine trees the path di-
vides, with Nanoko to the right and Nubutautau
down to the left. During the rainy season it's bet-
ter to turn right and head to Nanoko, where you
may be able to find a carrier to Bukuya or all the
way to Nadi. If you do decide to make for
Nanoko, beware of a very roundabout loop road
on the left. Another option is to skip all of the
above by taking a carrier from Tavua to Nadrau,
from whence your hike would then begin.
Reverend Thomas Baker, the last mission-
ary to be clubbed and devoured in Fiji (in 1867),
met his fate at Nubutautau. Jack London wrote
a story, "The Whale Tooth," about the death of
the missionary, and the ax that brought about
Reverend Baker's demise is still kept in the vil-
lage (other Baker artifacts are in the Fiji Muse-
um). You should be able to stay in the commu-
nity center in Nubutautau. The Nubutautau-Ko-
rolevu section of the trek involves 22 crossings of
the Sigatoka River, which is easy enough in the
dry season (cut a bamboo staff for balance), but
almost impossible in the wet (December to April).
Hiking boots will be useless in the river, so wear
a pair of old running shoes.
It's a fantastic trip down the river to Korolevu
if you can make it. The Korolevu villagers can call
large eels up from a nearby pool with a certain
chant. A few hours' walk away are the pottery vil-
lages, Draubuta and Nakoro, where traditional,
long Fijian pots are still made. From Korolevu
you can take a carrier to Tubarua, where there
are five buses a day to Sigatoka. A carrier leaves
Korolevu direct to Sigatoka very early every
morning except Sunday (F$7), departing Siga-
toka for the return around 1400 (if you want to do
this trip in reverse). Reader Bruce French of
Edgewood, Kentucky, wrote that "this trek was a
big highlight of my South Pacific experience."
Copyrighted material
232 LAUTOKA AND VICINITY
LAUTOKA AND VICINITY
LAUTOKA
Fiji's second city, Lautoka (population 45,000),
is the focus of the country's sugar and timber in-
dustries, a major port, and the Western Divi-
sion and Ba Province headquarters. It's a likable
place with a row of towering royal palms along
the main street.
Although Lautoka grew up around the Fijian
village of Namoli, the temples and mosques
standing prominently in the center of town reflect
the large Indo-Fijian population. In recent years
things have changed somewhat with many
Indo-Fijians abandoning Fiji as indigenous Fi-
jians move in to take their place, and Lautoka's
population is now almost evenly balanced be-
tween the groups. Yet in the countryside Indo-
Fijians still comprise a large majority.
Shuttle boats to Beachcomber and Treasure
islands depart from Lautoka, and this is the gate-
way to the Yasawa Islands with everything from
Blue Lagoon cruises to backpacker resort shut-
tles and village boats. Yet because Lautoka
doesn't depend only on tourism, you get a truer
picture of ordinary life than you would in Nadi.
and the city has a rambunctious nightlife. There's
some duty-free shopping, but mainly this is just
a pleasant place to wander around.
For information on Beachcomber Island and
Treasure Island resorts, both accessible from
Lautoka. turn to The Mamanuca Group.
SIGHTS
South of the Center
Begin next to the bus station at Lautoka's big,
colorful market, which is busiest on Saturday
(open Mon.-Fri. 0700-1730, Sat. 0530-1600).
From here, walk south on Yasawa Street to the
photogenic Jame Mosque. Five times a day
local male Muslims direct prayers toward a small
niche known as a mihrab, where the prayers
fuse and fly to the Kabba in Mecca, thence to
Allah. During the crushing season (June to No-
vember) narrow-gauge trains rattle past the
mosque along a line parallel to Vitogo Parade,
bringing cane to Lautoka's large sugar mill.
Taterial
LAUTOKA 233
Copyrighted material
234 LAUTOKA AND VICINITY
The Sunday afternoon festival and feast at
Lautoka's Hare Krishna Temple, largest in
the South Pacific, is worth attending.
Follow the line east a bit to the Sikh Temple,
rebuilt after a smaller temple burned down in
1989. To enter you must wash your hands and
cover your head (kerchiefs are provided at the
door), and cigarettes and liquor are forbidden
inside the compound. The teachings of the 10
Sikh gurus are contained in the Granth, a holy
book prominently displayed in the temple.
Sikhism began in the Punjab region of north-
west India in the 16th century as a reformed
branch of Hinduism much influenced by Islam:
for example, Sikhs reject the caste system and
idolatry. The Sikhs are easily recognized by their
beards and turbans.
Follow your map west along Drasa Avenue
to the Sri Krishna Kaliya Temple on Tavewa
Avenue, the most prominent Krishna temple in
the South Pacific (open daily until 2030). The
images on the right inside are Radha and Kr-
ishna, while the central figure is Knshna dancing
on the snake Kaliya to show his mastery over the
reptile. The story goes that Krishna chastised
Kaliya and exiled him to the island of Ramanik
Deep, which Indo-Fijians believe to be Fiji. (Cu-
riously, the indigenous Fijian people have also
long believed in a serpent-god, named Degei,
who lived in a cave in the Nakauvadra Range.)
The two figures on the left are incarnations of
Krishna and Balarama. At the front of the temple
is a representation of His Divine Grace A.C.
Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada, founder of
the International Society for Krishna Con-
sciousness (ISKCON). Interestingly, Fiji has the
highest percentage of Hare Krishnas in the pop-
ulation of any country in the world. The temple
gift shop (tel. 664-112; daily 0900-1630) sells
stimulating books, compact discs, cassettes,
and posters, and it's possible to rent videos. On
Sunday there's a lecture at 1 100, an*/ or prayer
(puja) at 1200, and a vegetarian feast at 1300,
and visitors are welcome to attend.
Nearby off Thomson Crescent is the entrance
to Lautoka's botanical garden (closed Sun- §
day). It will be a few more years before the plants |
in the garden reach maturity, but the landscaping o
here is attractive. £
Sugar and Spirits
Continue up Drasa Avenue a block from the gar-
den and turn right on Mill View Road. The large
Private Property sign at the beginning of the
road is intended mostly to keep out miscreants
and heavy vehicles, and tourists are allowed to
walk through this picturesque neighborhood,
past the colonial-era residences of sugar indus-
try executives and century-old banyan trees.
Just beyond the Fiji Sugar Corporation offices is
the Lautoka Sugar Mill, one of the largest in
the Southern Hemisphere. The mill was founded
in 1903. Although mill tours are not offered, you
can see quite a lot of the operation (busiest from
June to November) as you walk down Mill View
Road toward the main gate.
Continue straight ahead on Navutu Road (the
dirt road beside the railway line) to South Pacific
Distilleries (P.O. Box 1128, Lautoka; tel. 662-
088, fax 664-361), where free plant tours can
be arranged weekdays during business hours.
This government-owned plant bottles rum,
whisky, vodka, and gin under a variety of labels
and, of course, molasses from the sugar mill is
the distillery's main raw material. The fertilizer
factory across the highway uses mill mud from
the sugar-making process.
material
LAUTOKA 235
The Waterfront
Backtrack to the sugar mill and turn left toward
Fisheries Wharf, from which you'll have a fine
view of the huge sugar storage sheds next to
the mill and many colorful fishing boats. If you
were thinking of visiting the Yasawa Islands, this
is where you'll board your boat.
To the north, just beyond the conveyor belts
used to load raw sugar onto the ships, is a veri-
table mountain of pine chips ready for export to
Japan where they are used to make paper.
Forestry is becoming more important as Fiji at-
tempts to diversify its economy away from sugar.
The Main Wharf behind the chips is the depar-
ture point for the famous Blue Lagoon Cruises to
the Yasawa Islands, plus the 39-meter Beach-
comber Island shuttle boat Tut Tat. As you return
to central Lautoka, turn left onto Marine Drive
for its view of the harbor, especially enchanting at
sunset.
North of Lautoka
One of the largest reforestation projects yet
undertaken in the South Pacific is the Lololo
Pine Forest, eight km off Kings Road between
Lautoka and Ba. The logs are sawn into timber
if straight, or ground into chip if twisted, then ex-
ported from Lautoka. There's a shady picnic
area along a dammed creek at the forestry sta-
tion where you could swim, but even if you
don't stop, it's worthwhile taking the 1 .5 hour
round-trip bus ride from Lautoka to see this
beautiful area and to learn how it's being used.
The buses follow a circular route, returning by a
different road.
Sports and Recreation
Westside Watersports (P.O. Box 7137, Lau-
toka; tel./fax 661-462), on Wharf Road, orga-
nizes scuba diving trips, fills tanks, and does
Yasawa island transfers. Diving is FS88/1 45/200
for one/two/three tanks including gear. PADI
open-water certification is F$450 (five days), an
introductory dive is F$150. They'll take snorkel-
ers out in the boat if space is available. Westside
operates a dive shop on Tavewa Island.
Subsurface Fiji (Tony Cottrell, P.O. Box
1626, Lautoka; tel. 666-738 or 668-031 , fax 669-
955), at the corner of Nede and Naviti Streets
near the Lautoka Hotel, also arranges scuba
diving at FS68/1 30/295 for one/two/six tanks,
plus $12 for equipment. They'll also take snorkel-
ers along when they can. A four-day PADI certi-
fication course is FS550, otherwise an introduc-
tory dive is FS145. Divers should call for a free
hotel pickup. Tank air fills at offshore islands
can also be arranged. Subsurface handles all
scuba diving at Beachcomber Island, Musket
Cove. Navini Island, the Malolo Island Resort,
and Treasure Island.
The Lautoka Golf Club (tel. 661-384), a nine-
hole. par-69 course, charges F$15 green fees
plus F$20 club rentals. A taxi from the market
should cost around FS3.
All day Saturday you can catch exciting rugby
(April-September) or soccer (September-May)
near Lautoka. Fiji
236 LAUTOKA AND VICINITY
games at the stadium in Churchill Park (admis-
sion is FS3-5). Ask about league games.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Under USS25
A good choice is the clean, quiet, three-story Sea
Breeze Hotel (P.O. Box 152, Lautoka; tel. 660-
717, fax 666-080), at 5 Bekana Lane on the wa-
terfront near the bus station. They have 26 rooms
with private bath from FS33/34 single/double
(rooms with a/c FS45/49). A good breakfast is
FS8 extra. A very pleasant lounge has a color TV,
and a swimming pool overlooks the lagoon. They'll
often tell you that the cheaper rooms are full.
To be closer to the action, stay at the 38-room
Lautoka Hotel (P.O. Box 51 , Lautoka; tel. 660-
388, fax 660-201), 2 Naviti St., which has a nice
swimming pool. Room prices vary from F$25/30
single/double for a spacious fan-cooled room with
shared bath to F$49 single or double for a/c and
private bath, or F$1 5 pp in the six-bed dorm. On
weekends some rooms are subjected to a noc-
turnal rock beat from the adjacent City Pub.
Better are the 40 rooms at the friendly Cathay
Hotel (P.O. Box 239, Lautoka; tel. 660-566, fax
660-136) on Tavewa Avenue, which features a
swimming pool, TV room, and bar. The charge is
FS35/44 single/double with fan and private bath,
FS46/53 with a/c. Some of the rooms in less de-
sirable locations have been divided into dormi-
tories with two to five beds or bunks. Each dorm
has its own toilet and shower at F$12 pp (F$1
discount for youth hostel, VIP, or Nomads card
holders). The dorms here are the best deal in
the city, otherwise take one of the superior air-
conditioned rooms upstairs. The Cathay offers
free luggage storage for guests, and the notice
board at the reception often has useful informa-
tion on travel to Fijian villages and the outer is-
lands. The hotel bar upstairs is pleasant. Enjoy
the lovely choral singing filtering over from the
adjacent Methodist church at times.
The 18-room Diamond Hotel (P.O. Box 736.
Lautoka; tel. 666-721) on Nacula Street charges
FS15/20 single/double for a room with fan.
Though plain and basic, it's okay for one night if
everything else is full.
Another step down is the Mon Repo Hotel
(P.O. Box 857, Lautoka; tel. 661-595), 75 Vitogo
Parade, at FS15/20 single/double with shared
bath. This building is a former police station and
hookers on the beat outside are still brought in
(peep holes between rooms). After a night of
revelry be prepared for the muezzin of the
mosque across me street wno cans tne taitntui to
prayer at the crack of dawn.
USS25-50
Lautoka's top hotel is the Waterfront Hotel (P.O.
Box 4653, Lautoka; tel. 664-777, fax 665-870), a
two-story building erected in 1987 on Marine Drive.
It's part of the Tanoa hotel chain. The 47 wa-
terbed-equipped a/c rooms are F$88 single or
double, FS107 triple (children under 16 are free if
no extra bed is required). There's a swimming
pool, and members of tour groups departing Lau-
toka on Blue Lagoon cruises often stay here. The
Waterfront's Old Mill Restaurant serves a three-
course dinner for FS21 , Lautoka's finest dining.
FOOD
Several inexpensive local restaurants are near
the bus station. Jolly Good Fast Food (tel. 669-
980; daily 0800-2200), at Vakabale and Naviti
Streets opposite the market, is a great place to
sit and read a newspaper over a Coke. Their best
dishes are listed on the "made on order" menu
on the wall beside the cashier. Beef and pork are
not offered, so have fish, chicken, mutton, or
prawns instead— the portions are large. Eating
outside in their covered garden is fun, and the
only drawback is the lack of beer.
Morris Hedstrom (tel. 662-999; Mon.-Fri.
0800-1800, Sat. 0800-1600), Vidilio and Tukani
Streets, is Lautoka's largest supermarket. At the
back of the store is a foodcourt which offers fish
or cnicKen ana cnips, not pies, ice cream, ana
breakfast specials. It's clean and only a bit more
expensive than the market places.
The Pizza Inn (tel. 660-388) in the Lautoka
Hotel, 2 Naviti Street, serves pizzas for F$9-30.
Indian
Naran Ghela & Sons Milk Bar (tel. 667-502;
Mon.-Fri. 0800-1800, Sat. 0800-1630), 85 Vi-
togo Parade, is a good place for an Indian-style
breakfast of spicy snacks, samosas, and sweets
with coffee. Maharaja's at 91 Vitogo Parade
Copyrighted material
LAUTOKA 237
has F$3 lunches of chop suey or fish and chips.
The Lautoka equivalent of Suva's Hare Kr-
ishna Restaurant is Ganga Vegetarian Restau-
rant (tel. 662-990; Mon.-Fri. 0730-1700, Sat.
0730-1630), on the corner of Naviti and Ya-
sawa Streets near the market. It's best at lunch
with a vegetarian thali plate for F$4.75. Come
anytime for ice cream and sweets.
The unpretentious Hot Snax Shop (tel. 661-
306; Mon.-Fri. 0830-1800, Sat. 0830-1600),
56 Naviti St., may be the number one place in Fiji
£ to sample South Indian dishes, such as masala
§ dosai, a rice pancake with coconut chutney that
$ makes a nice light lunch, or samosas, iddili, puri,
8 and palau. The deep-fried puri are great for
breakfast, and you can also get ice cream. This
spot is recommended.
Chinese
Yangs Restaurant (tel. 661-446; Mon.-Thurs.
0800-1745, Fri. 0800-1800, Sat. 0800- 1700),
27 Naviti St., is an excellent breakfast or lunch
place with inexpensive Chinese specialties.
The air-conditioned Sea Coast Restaurant
(tel. 660-675; closed Sunday), on Naviti St. near
the Lautoka Hotel, has entrees for F$5-9. It's
the place to go if you want a large bottle of Fiji Bit-
ter with your Cantonese food.
ENTERTAINMENT
Lautoka has a flashy new movie house called Vil-
lage 4 Cinemas (tel. 663-555) at 25 Namoli Av-
enue. It costs about FS3 to view a film on one of
their four screens. Your only other choice is Globe
Cinema (tel. 661 -444) opposite the market.
The disco scene in Lautoka centers on the
City Pub (tel. 660-388; Thurs.-Sat. nights), for-
merly called Hunter's Inn, at the Lautoka Hotel.
Watch for special functions advertised outside,
but it's rather rough and dark.
A safer place to go is Coco's (tel. 668-989;
Tues.-Sun. from 2000) at 21 Naviti St., above
The Cafe. Entry is free on Tuesday and Wednes-
day (on Thursday until 2100 only). Persons wear-
ing T-shirt or flip-flops aren't supposed to be ad-
mitted, but tourists are exempt. The Rooftop
Bar & Grill (tel. 668-988) above Coco's has
happy hour from 1700-1900 with tall schooners
of beer for F$2.
Lautoka's old colonial club is the Northern
Club (tel. 660-184) on Tavewa Avenue oppo-
site the Cathay Hotel. The sign outside says
Members Only, but the club secretary is usually
willing to sign in foreign visitors. Lunch and din-
ner are available here Monday-Saturday; there's
tennis and a swimming pool. The South Seas
Club (tel. 660-784) on Nede Street is a less elit-
ist place to drink.
Sunday Puja
The big event of the week is the Sunday puja
(prayer) at the Sri Krishna Kaliya Temple (tel.
664-1 12) on Tavewa Avenue. The noon service is
followed by a vegetarian feast at 1 300, and visitors
may join in the singing and dancing, if they wish.
Take off your shoes and sit on the white marble
floor, men on one side, women on the other. Bells
ring, drums are beaten, conch shells blown, and
stories from the Vedas, Srimad Bhagavatam, and
Ramayana are acted out as everyone chants,
"Hare Krsna, Hare Krsna, Krsna Krsna, Hare
Hare. Hare Rama, Hare Rama, Rama, Rama.
Hare, Hare. * It's a real celebration of joy and a
most moving experience. At one point children
will circulate with small trays covered with burning
candles, on which it is customary to place a do-
nation; you may also drop a small bill in the yellow
box in the center of the temple. You'll be readily in-
vited to join the vegetarian feast later, and no
more money will be asked of you.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Information
Caroline Tawake at Tawake Travel Center (P.O.
Box 2322, Lautoka; tel. 954-056), 159 Vitogo Pa-
rade (in back of Tawake's Craft Designs near the
Colonial National Bank), takes bookings for most
of the Yasawa backpacker resorts. She'll help you
choose the right place for you and is very friendly.
The Department of Lands and Survey (tel.
661-800; Mon.-Thurs. 0800-1300 and 1400-
1630, Fri. 0800-1300 and 1400-1600). behind
238 LAUTOKA AND VICINITY
the Commissioner Western Division office near
the Cathay Hotel, sells excellent topographical
maps of western Fiji at F$5.50 a sheet.
The Lautoka City Bookshop (tel. 661-715),
1 9 Yasawa St., sells used books.
The Western Regional Library (tel. 660-091)
on Tavewa Avenue is open Monday-Friday
1 000-1 700. Saturday 0900-1 200.
Services
The Bank of Hawaii and Westpac Bank are on
Naviti Street near the market. There's another
Westpac Bank branch on Vitogo Parade a little
west of the post office beyond the Shell station.
The ANZ Bank on Vitogo Parade diagonally op-
posite the post office has a Visa/MasterCard
ATM. A second ANZ Bank ATM is found next to
Rajendra Prasad Foodtown on Yasawa Street
opposite the bus station.
Money Exchange (tel. 651-969; Mon.-Fri.
0830-1700, Sat. 0830-1300), 161 Vitogo Pa-
rade just up from the ANZ Bank, changes trav-
eler's checks without commission and buys/sells
the banknotes of other Pacific countries.
The public fax number at Lautoka Post Of-
fice is 664-666. Check your email for F$0.20 a
minute at Compuland (tel. 666-457), upstairs
at 145 Vitogo Parade.
The Immigration Department (tel. 661-706)
is on the ground floor of Rogorogoivuda House
on Tavewa Avenue almost opposite the Sri Kr-
ishna Kaliya Temple. Customs is in an adjacent
building. '
Public toilets are next to Bay 1 A, on the back
side of the bus station facing the market.
Yachting Facilities
The Neisau Marina Complex, at the end of
Bouwalu Street, fell on hard times after a hurri-
cane twisted their wharf. At last report it was
half abandoned, although some yachts still an-
chor there. So stay tuned.
The Vuda Point Marina (P.O. Box 5717,
Lautoka; tel. 668-214, fax 668-215) is between
Lautoka and Nadi, three km down Vuda Road
off Viseisei Back Road. Here yachts moor
Mediterranean style in a well protected oval an-
chorage blasted through the reef. The excel-
lent facilities include a yacht club, chandlery,
workshop, general store, fuel depot, laundry,
showers, and sail repair shop.
Health
The emergency room at the Lautoka Hospital
(tel. 660-399), off Thomson Crescent south of the
center, is open 24 hours a day.
The Vakabale Street Medical Center (tel.
661-961; Mon.-Fri. 0830-1 300 and 1400-1700,
Sat. 0830-1300), near the corner of Vakabale
and Naviti Streets not far from the market, in-
cludes a general medical practitioner and an
acupuncturist on their roster.
Otherwise there's the Bayly Clinic (tel. 665-
133, Mon.-Fri. 0800-1630, Sat. 0800-1300) at
4 Nede St., down from the Sea Coast Restau-
rant. You can see a dentist (Dr. Mrs. Suruj NakJu)
and an eye doctor, as well as general practi-
tioners here.
Dr. Suresh Chandra's dental office (tel. 660-
999; Mon.-Fri. 0800-1700, Sat. 0800-1200) is
opposite Village 4 Cinemas on Namoli Avenue.
TRANSPORTATION
Sun Air (tel. 664-753) is at 27 Vidilio Street.
Patterson Brothers (tel. 661-173), upstairs at
15 Tukani Street opposite the bus station, runs a
Wharf, Nabouwalu, and Labasa (F$45), depart-
ing Lautoka on Tuesday, Thursday, and Satur-
day around 0445. This bus actually begins its
run in Nadi, picking up passengers on Queens
Road near the Westpac Bank around 0330. Pat-
terson brotners aoesn t nave an onice in Nadi,
and Nadi passengers must pay the driver as
they board. If boarding in Lautoka. pay at the
office the day before.
Islands in the Sun (tel. 661 -500), Walu St. at
Vitogo Parade toward the main wharf, books
the high speed Beachcomber Cruises ship Lag-
ilagi, which departs Lautoka for Savusavu at
0700 on Tuesday and Saturday (five hours,
F$90). The same office sells cruises to Beach-
comber Island (F$64 pp including lunch, re-
ductions for children), departing Lautoka daily
at 1000— a great way to spend a day.
Buses, earners, taxis— everything leaves from
the bus stand beside the market. Pacific Trans-
port (tel. 660-499) has express buses to Suva
daily at 0630, 0700, 1210, 1550, and 1730 (221
km, five hours. F$10.55) via Sigatoka (Queens
Road). Five other "stage" buses also operate
Copyrighted material
LAUTOKA 239
daily along this route (six hours). The daily Sun-
set Express (tel. 668-276) leaves for Suva via
Sigatoka at 0900. 1330, and 1515 (four hours,
F$10). Sunbeam Transport (tel. 662-822) has
expresses to Suva via Tavua (Kings Road) at
0615, 0630, 0815, 1215, and 1630 (265 km, six
hours, FS12.95), plus two local buses on the
same route (nine hours). Sunbeam also has a
bus to Suva via Sigatoka at 1015. The northern
route is more scenic than the southern. Local
buses to Nadi (33 km, F$1 .55) and Ba (38 km,
FS1 .50) depart every half hour or so.
Car rentals are available in Lautoka from Cen-
tral (tel. 664-51 1 ) at 75 Vitogo Parade.
SOUTH OF LAUTOKA
A popular legend invented in 1893 holds that
Viseisei village, on the old road between Lau-
toka and Nadi. is the first settlement in Fiji. It's
told how the early Fijians, led by Chiefs Lutu-
nasobasoba and Degei, came from the west,
landing their great canoe, the Kaunitoni, at Vuda
Point, where the oil tanks are now. A Centenni-
al Memorial (1835-1935) in front of the church
commemorates the arrival of the first Methodist
missionaries in Fiji, and opposite the memorial is
a traditional Fijian bure — the residence of the
present Tui Vuda.
Near the back of the church is another monu-
ment topped by a giant war club, the burial place
of the village's chiefly family. The late Dr. Timoci
Bavadra. the former prime minister of Fiji who
was deposed by the Rabuka coup in 1987. hailed
from Viseisei and is interred here. Dr. Bavadra's
traditional-style home faces the main road near
the church. His son presently lives there, and
with his permission you'll be allowed to enter to
see the photos hanging from the walls.
All this is only a few minutes' walk from the bus
stop, but you're expected to have someone ac-
company you through the village. Ask permission
of anyone you meet at the bus stop and they
will send a child with you. As you part, you could
give the child a pack of chewing gum (give some-
thing else if your escort is an adult). There's a fine
view of Nadi Bay from Viseisei and bus tours
often stop here, as the souvenir vendors in the
village indicate. In any case, don't come on a
Sunday. A bypass on Queens Road avoids Vi-
seisei, and only local buses between Lautoka
and Nadi take the back road past the village.
A couple of kilometers from the village on the
airport side of Viseisei, just above Lomolomo
Public School, are two British six-inch guns
set up here during World War II to defend the
north side of Nadi Bay. It's a fairly easy climb
from the main highway, and you'll get an excel-
lent view from the top.
Accommodations
Saweni Beach Apartment Hotel (P.O. Box
239, Lautoka; tel. 661-777, fax 660-136), a kilo-
meter off the main highway south of Lautoka,
offers a row of 12 self-catering apartments with
The guns of Lomolomo
on a hilltop between
Lautoka and Nadi.
240 LAUTOKA AND VICINITY
fan and hot water at F$46/51 poolside/ocean
views for up to three persons (fourth person
F$1 1 extra). The four rooms in the "brown house"
on the beach are FS36/40 with shared/private
bath single or double. Several dormitories in the
annex with two to four beds are F$1 1 pp, or you
can pitch your own tent here at F$6 pp and still
use the dorm's communal kitchen. A small dis-
count is offered if you show a youth hostel. VIP,
or Nomads card, and there's 1 0 percent off on
weekly stays. It's a fine place to hang out. Fish-
ermen on the beach sell fresh fish every morning,
and cruising yachts often anchor off Saweni
Beach. It's quiet and the so-so beach only comes
alive on weekends when local picnickers arrive.
Guests unwind by the pool. A local company of-
fers scuba diving from Saweni. A bus runs right
to the hotel from bay No 14 at Lautoka Bus Sta-
tion three times a day. Otherwise any of the local
Nadi buses will drop you off a 10-minute walk
away (a taxi from Lautoka is F$7 for the 18 km).
Mediterranean Villas (P.O. Box 5240, Lau-
toka; tel. 664-011, fax 661-773), on Vuda Hill
overlooking Viseisei village just off Viseisei Back
Road, has six individually decorated villas with
fridge beginning at F$77/90 single/double. Cook-
ing facilities are not provided, but a licensed Ital-
ian seafood restaurant is on the premises. There's
no pool and the beach is far from here, but the
hotel has a private island for guests. This hotel
acts as the honorary Italian consulate in Fiji. Local
buses between Lautoka and Nadi stop nearby.
First Landing Resort (P.O. Box 348, Lauto-
ka; tel. 666-1 71 . fax 668-882) is next to the Vuda
Point Yacht Marina, but otherwise not a very
convenient spot. It's three km down Vuda Road
from Mediterranean Villas and right past the oil
tanks. On the plus side, the beach is better than
those in and around Nadi. The 14 older a/c cot-
tages are FS176 single or double, while 10 larg-
er cottages are F$198 (extra persons FS16.50),
The units have a fridge but no cooking facilities.
Breakfast is included in all rates. The large gar-
den restaurant on the premises bakes pizza,
seafood, and bread in a wood-fired stone oven.
Tour groups often eat here.
In the same general area, a 15-minute walk
along the beach from Viseisei, is the Anchorage
Beach Resort (P.O. Box 9203, Nadi Airport; tel.
662-099, fax 665-571 ), which has gone upmarket
since being taken over by the Tanoa hotel chain in
1996. The nine garden-view rooms are F$77 sin-
gle or double, the seven ocean view or "panoram-
ic" rooms FS88, and the only two rooms with
cooking facilities F$89 (other guests must use
the restaurant). Each room has a fridge and bal-
cony. A swimming pool is on the premises.
KOROYANITU
NATIONAL HERITAGE PARK
With help from New Zealand, an ecotourism pro-
ject is underway between Abaca ("am-BA-tha")
and Navilawa villages in the Mount Evans Range,
1 5 km east of Lautoka. Koroyanitu National Her-
itage Park takes its name from the range's high-
est peak, 1,195-meter Koroyanitu, and is in-
tended to preserve Fiji's only untagged tropical
moniane torest ana cioua torest oy creating a
small tourism business for the local villagers.
The village carrier used to transport visitors also
carries the local kids to and from school, the
women earn money by staffing the office or ar-
ranging room and board, and the men get jobs as
drivers, guides, and wardens. By visiting Koroy-
anitu, you not only get to see some of Fiji's top
sights but support this worthy undertaking.
Four waterfalls are close to the village, and
Batilamu. with sweeping views of the western
side of Viti Levu and the Yasawas, is nearby.
More ambitious hikes to higher peaks beckon.
The landscape of wide green vaJleys set against
steep slopes is superb. Doves and pigeons
abound in the forests, and you'll also find hon-
eyeaters, Polynesian starlings, Fijian warblers,
yellow breasted musk parrots, golden whistlers,
fan-tailed cuckoos, and woodswallows. It's an
outstanding opportunity to see this spectacular
area. The park entry fee is F$5 pp.
Sights
You can swim in the pools at Vereni Falls, a
five minute walk from the park lodge. Picnic shel-
ters are provided. From the viewpoint above the
falls, it's 15 minutes up the Navuratu Track to
Kokobula Scenic Outlook with its 360 degree
view of the park and coast. The trail continues
across the open grassland to Savuione Falls,
passing an old village site en route (guide re-
quired). From Savuione there's a trail through
the forest directly back to the park lodge. You
Copyrighted material
LAUTOKA 241
could do all this in just over two hours if you kept
going and didn't lose your way.
The finest hike here is to Mount Batilamu
along a trail which begins at the visitor center
in Abaca village. You'll pass large kauri trees
(makadre) and get a terrific view from on top.
This part of the range is also known as the
"Sleeping Giant" because that's how it appears
from Nadi. Allow half a day return from Abaca to
Batilamu.
The Batilamu Track continues across the
range to Navilawa village, from which a six-km
road runs south to Korobebe village where
there's regular bus service to/from Nadi. Trekkers
often spend the night in Fiji's highest bure on
Batilamu, although less than a hundred people a
year actually do this walk. An even more ambi-
tious trek is northeast to Nalotawa via the site of
Navuga, where the Abaca people lived until their
village was destroyed by a landslide in the 1 930s.
To explore the various archaeological sites of
this area and to learn more about the environ-
ment and culture, you should hire a guide
(F$10-20aday).
The Nase Forest Lodge (P.O. Box 6729, Lau-
toka), 400 meters from Abaca village, has two
six-bunk rooms at F$25 pp (or FS80 for the
whole room). Camping is F$10 pp. Children
under 15 are half price. Good cooking facilities
are provided, but take food as there's no shop.
Meals can be ordered at FS5/7/10 for break-
fast/lunch/dinner. Otherwise you can stay with a
family in Abaca or Navilawa villages at FS30 pp
including meals.
For information call tel. 651-168, 664-047, or
661 -51 1 . You can sometimes get directly through
to Abaca village by dialing 666-644 (wait for two
beeps, then dial 1234). You may get an an-
swering machine, and they sometimes don't
check their messages for a week at a time. The
receptionists at the Cathay and Lautoka hotels in
Lautoka may also be able to help you. (On Sun-
day, avoid entering the village during the church
service 1000-1200. Village etiquette should be
observed at all times.)
Getting There
The closest public bus stop to the park is Abaca
Junction on the Tavakuba bus route, but it's 10
km from Abaca village. An official village carrier
to the park leaves the Cathay Hotel in Lautoka
around 0900, charging F$9 pp (F$1 5 if only one
person). It returns to Lautoka in the afternoon.
Ask at the hotel or call Mr. Vijendra Kumar
(tel./fax 666-590) for information about these
transfers. It's also possible to hire a carrier direct
to Abaca on Yasawa Street next to Lautoka mar-
ket at about F$20 each way for the vehicle. Oth-
erwise, the Lautoka hotels run daytrips at F$43
pp including lunch and a guided hike to the wa-
terfall. Travel agents in Nadi offer a two-day
Batilamu Trek package at F$250 pp. During the
rainy season, floods can close the road to Abaca
and the trekking possibilities may also be limited.
Copyrighted material
242 THE YASAWA ISLANDS
THE YASAWA ISLANDS
The Yasawas are a chain of 16 main volcanic is-
lands and dozens of smaller ones, stretching 80
km in a north-northeast direction, roughly 35 km
off the west coast of Viti Levu. In the lee of Viti
Levu, the Yasawas are dry and sunny, with beau-
tiful, isolated beaches, cliffs, bays, and reefs. The
waters are crystal clear and almost totally shark-
free. The group was romanticized in two movies
about a pair of child castaways who eventually fall
in love on a deserted isle. The original 1949 ver-
sion of The Blue Lagoon starred Jean Simmons,
while the 1980 remake featured Brooke Shields.
(A 1991 sequel Return to the Blue Lagoon with
Milla Jovovich was filmed on Taveuni.)
It was from the north end of the Yasawas that
two canoe-loads of cannibals sallied forth in 1789
and gave chase to Capt. William Bligh and his 18
companions less than a week after the famous
mutiny. Two centuries later, increasing numbers
of mini-cruise ships ply the islands, but there are
still almost no motorized land vehicles or roads.
The thousand-dollar-a-day crowd is whisked by
seaplane to Turtle Island, while the backpack-
ers arrive from Lautoka or Nadi by boat.
Super exclusive Turtle Island Resort and the
backpacker camps on nearby Tavewa have co-
existed for decades, but only in recent years
have the Yasawans themselves recognized the
moneymaking potential of tourism. Now a
bumper crop of low-budget "resorts" is bursting
forth, up and down the chain, as the villagers
rush to cash in. The Nacula Tikina Tourism
Association (tel. 722-921) coordinates the de-
velopment of locally-owned backpacker resorts
on all of the central islands around Tavewa.
Thankfully the resorts associated with the
scheme have committed to a code of conduct to
preserve and protect the natural environment. In
the local dialect called Vuda, bula is cola (hello)
and vinaka is vina du riki (thank you).
Getting There
South Sea Cruises (P.O. Box 718, Nadi; tel.
750-500, fax 750-501 ) runs the fast catamaran
Dau Veivueti to the Yasawas on Monday,
Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, leaving
Nadi's Port Denarau at 0900 and Lautoka's Fish-
eries Wharf at 0930, and arriving at Waya at
1 100. at Naviti at 1210, and at Tavewa at 1310.
The return trip leaves Tavewa at 1330 the same
THE YASAWA ISLANDS 243
VASAWA ISLANDS
Q, a Yawint Island
Yasawairarat
Bukama
SOUTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN
>
Yasawa Island
Vawa
Island^ *
Tamasua)0-J3r r ' aD i', keru , , .
g Nanuya Island
h Nacula Island/^ , $ i and
Nacular
Tavewa
Island^)
Matacawalevu Island
"111! i/jQ J&Nanuya Lailai Island
Vuakedp 1 //TURTLE ISLAND LODGE
Or° Nanuya Levu
latayalevuR) i sIand
Matayalevujo^
YaqetaCj
Island <S
Naimtutulu Pu»suKf
Naviti Island
Qeleni Kese
Muaira
Drawaqa Island^^Buj
<^Nanuya Balavu
Narara Island^ .Island
Ml. -h
Wttti
Nalauwaki
H
.» . M ««
Wayalevu
Waya Island
Natawa
Yulobi
Bay
ascwa Island
0 Way
jNamara
Wa Island Rxk
lF jC OCEAN
0 Eori Island
^Navadra Island
Vanua Levu Island
<J Kadomo Island
Mamanuca Group
.H 0 ™, dTokoriki Island
Island ., .I.
V ^1 Yanuya Island
Monur i
ki £vTavua Island
,slan <J Beachcomber
Maiamanoa j s|and
Island
Vomulailai
Island
Vomo Island
Bekena Island o
Si»rni
Reach
OLautoka
0
Treasure Island
Viti Levu
Island
=1
15 km
19 mi
=j
244 THE YASAWA ISLANDS
days, with stops at Naviti at 1430, at Waya at
1510, at Lautoka at 1640, and reaching Port
Denarau at 1 720. The schedule is increased to
daily service when things get busy. Fares from
Nadi or Lautoka are F$50/95 one-way/round-
trip to Waya, FS60/1 1 5 to Naviti, and F$7071 35 to
Tavewa. Interisland fares within the Yasawas
are F$55. There are no refunds on the unused
return portion of a round-trip ticket. The boat
usually drops passengers on the beach right in
front of their resort, but ask.
Next to a seaplane, this is the safest and most
comfortable way to go by far (and it's the only Ya-
sawas ferry service licensed and approved by
the Fiji government). This boat even has a toilet!
There are only 35 seats on the ferry and reser-
vations are recommended. This is especially
important for the return trip to Nadi if you have to
connect with a flight, as the Dau Veivueti's cap-
tain is under strict orders not to accept addition-
al passengers once the boat is full.
Recently Turtle Airways (tel. 721-888) has
been offering reduced fares to backpackers
headed for the low-budget resorts on or around
Tavewa Island. Ask at the Turtle Island Resort of-
fice at Nadi Airport, a bit beyond the Fiji Visitors
Bureau. It only takes 30 minutes by air from
Turtle's Nadi base at Wailoaloa Beach all the
way to the seaplane landing area off Tavewa's
east coast. The emerald lagoons and colorful
reefs are truly dazzling when seen from above.
Many of the Yasawa backpacker camps have
boats of their own, and when with them booking
it's best to avoid prepaying your return boat fare
if there's any chance you might wish to move
to a different resort after arriving. Don't believe
anyone who tells you that the Tavewa boats will
drop you on Waya, Wayasewa, or another is-
land on their way back to Lautoka as the decision
to do so is strictly up to the captain at the moment
you wish to travel. They usually ask the same
price from Tavewa to Waya/Wayasewa as they
do from Tavewa to Lautoka.
However you go, never schedule a return to
Nadi on the same day you must catch an inter-
national flight as adverse weather conditions
can ieaa to tne cancellation ot an Doai tnps. I nis
happens all the time, and even allowing two
days leeway won't be sufficient if a hurricane
warning has been issued. Also be aware of safe-
ty conditions on your boat, and organize a col-
lective protest if the captain seems to be packing
in too many passengers just to make more
money. For example, count the number of life
jackets and don't allow them to load more pas-
sengers than that. Due to overloading and heavy
seas, a backpacker boat sank on its way from
Lautoka to Tavewa in 1999 and the 23 persons
aboard spent 24 hours in the water before being
rescued. The resort didn't even bother to report
them missing, and only a chance encounter with
a Blue Lagoon cruise ship saved their lives!
There are few government controls over the
small resort boats, and they aren't even cheap.
WAYASEWA ISLAND
Wayalailai Ecohaven Resort (P.O. Box 6353,
Lautoka; tel. 669-715), formerly known as Dive
i reK wayasewa, is on me so urn sioe ot wayase-
wa adjacent to Namara village. In 1972 most of
the villagers moved to the northwest side of the
island, and since 1 994 the east side of the village
has been developed into one of the largest back-
packer camps in Fiji. The location is spectacular,
opposite Kuata Island directly below Wayase-
wa's highest peak (349 meters), with Viti Levu
clearly visible to the east behind Vomo Island.
Photos don't do this place justice.
The resort is built on two terraces, one 10 me-
ters above the beach and the other 10 meters
above that. The lower terrace has the double,
duplex, and dormitory bure, while the upper ac-
commodates the former village schoolhouse, now
partitioned into 14 tiny double rooms, and the
restaurant/bar. Rooms with shared bath and open
ceiling in the school building are F$40 pp, while
the five individual bure with private bath and a
small porch are FS100 double. One duplex bure
with four beds on each side serves as an eight-
bed dormitory or burebau at F$35 pp. The camp-
ing space nearby is F$25 pp. If you pay seven
nights the eight is free. The minimum stay is three
nights. Upon arrival, ask the staff to change the
sheets if they haven't already done so.
Three meals are included in all rates and the
food is reasonable with second helpings allowed
(free tea and coffee throughout the day). A veg-
etanan meal is the same thing with the meat re-
moved. Breakfast is served at 0700 to give you
an early start. A barbecue and bonfire are held
Copyrighted material
THE YASAWA ISLANDS 245
on Wednesday night, and Sunday afternoon a
lovo is prepared. There's no shortage of water.
The electric generator goes off at 2200 and dis-
turbances in the double rooms or dorm (if any)
are more likely to come in the early morning as
people get up to see the sunrise or to do a pre-
breakfast hike. Wayalailai appeals to all ages,
and the extraordinary mix of guests is also due to
the emphasis on scuba diving. Informal musi-
cal entertainment occurs nightly, and because
this resort is collectively owned by the village, the
staff is like one big happy family.
WA/A AND WAYASEWA
Nacilau Point i
Not d Bay
Rckua Point
OCTOPUS RESORT
Retf
Nalauwaki Bay
Roromatoli
Point
TWIN
RESORT
lia\ u
Rt€f
Vatukavika Point
Wayalevu
Vunadito Point
Loto Point
SOUTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Namara
Ltkunivuawa Point
WAYALAILAI
ECOHAVEN
Kuata
Island
2 mi
2 km
Lotoikuata
Point
There's lots to see and do at Wayalailai with hik-
ing and scuba diving the main activities. The most
popular hike is to the top of Vatuvula, the fantas-
tic volcanic plug hanging directly over the resort.
The well trodden path circles the mountain and
comes up the back, taking about 1 .5 hours total
excluding stops (a guide isn't really required).
From the top of Vatuvula you get a sweeping
view of the west side of Viti Levu, the Mamanucas,
and the southern half of the Yasawa chain — one
of the scenic highlights of the South Pacific. From
Vatuvula you can trek northwest across the grassy
uplands to another rock with a
good view of Yalobi Bay (also
known as Alacrity Bay).
The more ambitious can hike
right around the island in four
or five hours. Begin from Way-
alailai just as the tide is starting
to go out and travel counter-
clockwise to get over the hard-
est stretch first. Bush trails cut
across the headlands to avoid
coastal cliffs, but they're often
hard to find, especially on the
northeast side of the island. A
sandbar links Wayasewa to
Waya at low tide and it's possi-
ble to cross to the other island
without removing your shoes.
On your way around Wayasewa
you'll pass two villages, Naboro
and Yamata, both on the north-
west side of the island, and if
the tide is well on its way in by
the time you get to Yamata, you
should either look for a boat
back to Wayalailai or ask about
returning over the mountain
(provided it's not too late).
The offshore reef features
cabbage coral, whip coral, and
giant fan corals in warm, clear
waters teeming with fish, and
scuba diving is well organized.
Prices are FS70/110/180 for
one/two/four tanks, equipment
included, and Wayalailai's inex-
pensive PADI open-water certi-
fication course (F$350) makes
this a great place to learn to dive.
Motukuro Point
Bligh
Water
Naqalia Point
246 THE YASAWA ISLANDS
If you're new to the activity, try the "discover
scuba" resort course at FS80. The resorfs dive
shop also caters to snorkelers with a snorkeling
trip to Kuata Island at F$4 pp (minimum of five), or
snorkeling on a reef halfway to Vomo at F$9 pp
(minimum of six). With a buddy you could even
snorkel over to Kuata, so long as you're aware of
the currents (ask about this). There's a nice picnic
beach on the side of Kuata facing Wayasewa.
but the optimum snorkeling area is across the
point on the southwest side. Look for the cave
near the seagull rocks at the point itself.
Other activities include sunset fishing for F$7
pp (minimum of five), and on Tuesday and Sat-
urday there's an organized visit to Naboro vil-
lage for a kava ceremony and traditional meke
entertainment (FS14 pp). Beach volleyball is
every afternoon. No organized activities take
place on Sunday.
Transfers from Lautoka on Wayalailai's own
boat depart Monday-Saturday at 1300 (1.5
hours, F$40 pp each way). The boat leaves
Wayalailai to return to Lautoka Monday-Satur-
day at 0900. In both directions the boat fare in-
cludes bus transfers to/from Nadi/Lautoka hotels.
Wayalailai also offers speedboat transfers to
most other resorts in this area upon request: to
Yalobi village on Waya Island at F$15 pp, to
Octopus Resort F$20 pp. to Mana Island F$60
pp (three-person minimum). You can also get
there on the South Sea Cruises shuttle from
Nadi at F$50/95 one-way/round-trip (or F$55
from Wayalailai to Tavewa).
You can book Wayalailai through Rabua's
Travel Agency (tel. 721-377 or 724-364), Of-
fice No. 23. upstairs from the international ar-
rivals concourse at Nadi Airport (ask for
"Rambo"), or just call the number listed above.
Be aware that Wayalailai's booking system is
chaotic, and even those with firm reservations
may still encounter confusion upon arrival about
where they're supposed to sleep. Booking ahead
from abroad is a waste of time. Just wait until
you get to Fiji, then call them yourself or ask
Rambo if he can get you a room.
WAYA ISLAND
The high island clearly visible to the northwest of
Lautoka is Waya. closest of the larger Yasawas
to Viti Levu and just 60 km away. At 579 meters,
it's also the highest island in the chain. Waya is
an excellent choice for the hyperactive traveler as
the hiking possibilities are unlimited. The selection
of places to stay is the best in the Yasawas, and
the beaches are very good. There aren't any up-
scale Mamanuca-style tourist resorts around
here, so it's a great place to experience unspoiled
Fijian culture. So if you can live with a few rough
edges, Waya is the place to go.
Four Fijian villages are sprinkled around
Waya: Nalauwaki, Natawa, Wayalevu, and Yalo-
bi. The rocky mass of Batinareba (510 meters)
towers over the west side of Yalobi Bay and in a
morning or afternoon you can scramble up the
mountain's rocky slope from the west end of the
beach at Yalobi. Go through the forested saddle
on the south side of the highest peak, and follow
CAPTAIN WILLIAM BLIGH
In 1 789, after being cast adrift by the mutineers on
his HMS Bounty, Captain Bligh and 1 8 others in
a seven-meter longboat were chased by two Fi-
jian war canoes through what is now called Bligh
Water. His men pulled the oars desperately,
heading for open sea, and managed to escape
the cannibals. They later arrived in Timor, finish-
ing the most celebrated open-boat journey of all
time. Captain Bligh did some incredible charting
of Fijian waters along the way.
THE YASAWA ISLANDS 247
the grassy ridge on the far side all the way down
to Loto Point. Many goats are seen along the
way. An easier hike from Yalobi leads south-
east from the school to the sandbar over to
Wayasewa. At low tide you can walk across and
there's good snorkeling anytime.
One of the most memorable walks in the South
Pacific involves spending two hours on a well-
used trail from Yalobi to Nalauwaki village. Octo-
pus Resort is just over the ridge west of Nalauwa-
ki, and from there it's possible to hike back to
Yalobi down Waya's west coast and across Loto
Point in another two or three hours. Due to rocky
headlands lapped by the sea you can only go
down the west coast at low tide, thus one must set
out from Yalobi at high tide and from Octopus at
low tide. It's a great way to fill a day.
Accommodations
Waya's newest place to stay is Liavata Lodge
(P.O. Box 3894, Lautoka; tel. 669-042 or 976-
778), near Nalauwaki village on northern Waya.
Accommodations are F$85 double in a bure,
F$35 pp in the dorm, or F$25 pp if you camp.
Transfers from Lautoka are F$80 round-trip. The
beach here isn't comparable to the one at Octo-
pus Resort to the west, but it's better if you're in-
terested in Fijian culture because the local vil-
lagers run the resort as part of an ecotourism
project. They'll take you mountain climbing, cav-
ing, fishing, sailing, gardening, and storytelling —
just name it. You can swim in a small freshwater
pool near the lodge. It's also less expensive than
Octopus and you should have no problems get-
ting a reservation. The South Sea Cruises shut-
tle from Nadi will bring you right here.
On a high white-sand beach in Likuliku Bay
on northwestern Waya is Octopus Resort Waya
(P.O. Box 1861 , Lautoka; tel. 666-337, fax 666-
210), run by Ingrid and Wolfgang Denk. Nalauwa-
ki village is a 10-minute walk away over a low
ridge. The four solidly constructed tin-roofed bure
with private bath are F$1 10/140 garden/beach
single or double. Otherwise it s F$45 pp in a four-
bed dorm, or FS35 pp to sleep in one of Octo-
pus's set tents. If you bring your own tent it's
also F$35 pp and there's an additional F$5 per
tent fee to set it up (this unusual rate is part of a
deliberate attempt to avoid overcrowding). An-
other two bure and a six-bed dorm may have
gone up by the time you get there, but the Denks
have no intention of expanding beyond that.
Lunch and dinner are included in all rates. Drinks
are served at their large restaurant/bar and a
generator provides electricity in the public area
each evening. Yachties are welcome to anchor
offshore and use the facilities if they order some
meals. When there's enough interest the Denks
organize a meke (F$15 pp). Fishing trips are
FS15 pp including lunch, but there's no scuba
diving. Octopus is in a quiet, secluded location
with some of Fiji's finest snorkeling right offshore
(spectacular coral). It's one of the nicest back-
packer resorts in the South Pacific— the equiva-
lent of the upmarket Mamanuca resorts in al-
most everything but price. Reservations are es-
sential as it's often full. Even then, a number of
readers have complained about having their con-
firmed reservations canceled by Octopus at the
last minute. Information may be available at the
Cathay Hotel reception in Lautoka. Transfers de-
part Lautoka Monday at 1 400 and Thursday at
1000, departing Waya for the return Monday and
Wednesday at 0900 (F$95 round-trip). The South
Sea Cruises shuttle from Nadi costs the same.
Twin Peaks Resort (Kitione Vuataki, P.O.
Box 1 165, Lautoka; tel. 661-400 or 975-250) is
on the Liku Lagoon, south of Octopus on Waya's
unoccupied west coast. Once only a stopover
camp for Captain Cook Cruises, it's now run as
a Yalobi village youth initiative. The 12 thatched
bure are F$1 00 double including meals (or F$80
after bargaining). Dormitory accommodations
and camping are possible, but inquire about the
rates as they vary. Lighting is by kerosene
lantern. Twin Peaks is very isolated, but the
scenery and sunsets are superb. Return boat
transfers from Lautoka cost F$70 pp. You can
book Twin Peaks through Rabua's Travel
Agency (tel. 721 -377 or 724-364) in office No. 23,
upstairs from arrivals at Nadi Airport.
Adi's Place (Adi Sayaba, P.O. Box 1163,
Lautoka; tel. 926-377), at Yalobi village on the
south side of Waya, is a small family-operated re-
sort in existence since 1981 . Although primitive,
it still makes a good hiking base with prices de-
signed to attract and hold those with bare-bud-
gets. The accommodations consist of one eight-
bunk dorm at F$35 pp, a solid European-style
house with three double rooms at F$40 pp, and
camping space at F$25 pp. Lighting is by
kerosene lamp. The rates include three meals,
Copyrighted material
248 THE YASAWA ISLANDS
but the food is variable with great meals served
when Adi herself is present and little more than
cabbage and rice at other times. If you've got a
portable camp stove and a tent you can skip the
meals and prepare your own food while paying
F$9 pp to camp. Bring your own alcohol. It's
right on one of the Yasawas' finest beaches,
and you can lie in a hammock and observe vil-
lage life (church on Sunday, kids going back
and forth to school, etc.). Every Monday a cruise
ship calls at Yalobi and the villagers put on tra-
ditional dances, which Adi's guests can watch for
F$5 per head. Scuba diving is not available here
and you should not leave valuables unattend-
ed. If you haven't been able to reserve one of the
more structured Yasawa resorts such as Way-
alailai or Coral View, you should have no problem
getting in here, but it shouldn't be your first
choice. Adi's boat, the Bula Tale, departs Lau-
toka's Fisheries Wharf for Yalobi at 1 300 daily ex-
cept Sunday, charging F$45 pp each way for
the two-hour trip. The boat usually stays
overnight at Lautoka and leaves for Waya in the
morning, returning to Lautoka in the afternoon,
but this varies. Bookings can be made through
the Cathay Hotel in Lautoka.
Adi's brother Manasa runs the Bayside Re-
sort just past the school east of Adi's Place.
The two rooms in the duplex bure are F$77 dou-
ble, while the two individual bure go for F$88.
The dorm is F$35 pp (all prices include meals).
Book through Rabua's Travel Agency (tel. 721-
377 or 724-364), office No. 23, upstairs from ar-
rivals at Nadi Airport.
A simpler budget place is Lovoni Camping,
on a small rocky beach a 20-minute walk north of
Natawa village on the east side of Waya. From
Yalobi, it's a 30-minute hike across the ridge to
Natawa. Lovoni is run by Adi's cousin Semi who
had to rebuild everything after a hurricane in
1 997. At last report there were two thatched
bure at F$35 pp including meals. Camping is
possible. It's a place to hang out with some
friendly people.
NAVITI ISLAND
Naviti, at 33 square km, is the largest of the Ya-
sawas. Its king, one of the group s highest chiefs,
resides at Soso, and the church there houses
fine woodcarvings. On the hillside above Soso
are two caves containing the bones of ances-
tors. Yawesa, the secondary boarding school
on Naviti, is a village in itself.
The recently opened Korovou Resort (P.O.
Box 6627, Lautoka; tel. 666-644), on the west
side of Naviti, has six thatched bure with pri-
vate bath at F$1 00 double, two bure with shared
bath at F$90, and a 14-bed dormitory at F$38
pp. Camping is F$27 pp (all prices include
meals). The South Sea Cruises shuttle from
Nadi is F$60/115 one-way/round-trip. Rabua
Travel Agency (tel. 721 -377 or 724-364), in office
No. 23 upstairs from arrivals at Nadi Airport,
handles bookings. We haven't been able to get
over to inspect it as yet, so please let us know
what you find.
TAVEWA ISLAND
Tavewa is much smaller than Waya and twice as
far from Lautoka, yet it's also strikingly beautiful
with excellent bathing in the warm waters off a
picture-postcard beach on the southeast side,
and a good fringing reef with super snorkeling.
Tall grass covers the hilly interior of this two-
km-long island. Tavewa is in the middle of the
Yasawas and from the summit you can behold
the long chain of islands stretching out on each
side with Viti Levu in the background. The sun-
sets can be splendid from the hill.
i nere s no cmer nere, as mis is treenoia lana. in
the late 19th century an Irishman named William
Doughty married a woman from Nacula who was
given Tavewa as her dowry. A decade or two later
a Scot named William Bruce married into the
Doughty family, and some time thereafter beach-
combers called Murray and Campbell arrived on
the scene and did the same, with the result that
today some 50 Doughtys, Bruces, Murrays, and
Campbells comprise the population of Tavewa.
William Doughty himself died in 1 926 at the ripe
age of 77. Auntie Lucy Doughty, the person who
pioneered tourism to Tavewa back in the late
1970s, lives next door to David Doughty's Place
The islanders are friendly and welcoming; in
fact, accommodating visitors is their main source
of income. Most of their guests are backpackers
who usually stay six nights, and most are sorry to
Copyrighted material
THE YASAWA ISLANDS 249
leave. It's idyllic but bring along mosquito coils,
toilet paper, candles, a flashlight (torch), bottled
water, and a sulu to cover up. Be prepared for
water shortages.
Accommodations
On the east side of Tavewa are four family-oper-
ated backpacker resorts. Coral View Resort (P.O.
Box 3764, Lautoka; tel. 662-648) nestles in a cozy
valley on a secluded beach with high hills on each
side. It has six small thatched bure at FS77/88
double without/with electricity, four six-bunk dorm
bure at F$35 pp. Camping with your own tent is
F$28 pp. Mosquito nets are supplied. You'll be
lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves (unless
you're in the two dorms near the noisy radio hut).
Included are three meals (served promptly at
0800. 1200, and 1900) and one organized activi-
ty a day. Free boat trips are offered to Honey-
moon Island, Blue Lagoon Beach, and two beach-
es on Nacula Island. The excursion to Malakati vil-
lage on Thursday morning or the boat trip to the
Sawa-i-Lau caves require a minimum of 10 people
willing to pay F$20 pp to operate. Snorkeling gear
is free (FS20 deposit). In the evening a string band
plays in the restaurant/bar, and everyone sits
Honeymoons
Island CP
Mul.iJ.ui ■
AROUND TAVEWA
Sjndv Point
Island
Devtulau
Island
!
a
Cla Rrr/
f n.m.i.il.i
Nanuya
Levu
Island
Bligh
Water
I mi
I km
250 THE YASAWA ISLANDS
around talking, drinking, or playing cards. Although
there are lots of organized activities, Coral View is
also a place where people come to relax and so-
cialize, and most of the guests tend to be under
35. When the shuttle boat arrives from Lautoka all
resort residents (including Snoopy the dog) line up
on the beach to shake hands with new arrivals.
Coral View tries to provide resort-style service
(the staff wears matching uniforms), and Uncle
Robert de Bruce keeps a close watch over every-
thing from behind the scenes. Robert's son Don is
captain of Coral View's 12-meter Sabob III, which
leaves Lautoka Tuesday, Thursday, and Satur-
day at 1 300, departing Tavewa for the return on
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings (2.5
hours, F$60/110 pp one- way/round-trip). Coral
View bookings are handled at the reception of
the Cathay Hotel in Lautoka, or at Coral View's
Nadi Airport office (tel. 724-199) in office No. 35
upstairs in the commercial arcade at arrivals. The
airport office will give you a 1 5 percent discount if
you book directly through them and stay at least
four nights (the bare minimum you'd want to stay
in any case).
Kingfisher Lodge is Tavewa's newest and
most upscale resort, offering a self-contained
beach bum at F$100 double. Beds in the three
set safari tents in the garden are F$30 pp.
David's Place (David and Kara Doughty, P.O.
Box 10520, Nadi Airport; tel. 721-820) stands
in a coconut grove near a small church on the is-
land's longest beach. There are eight bure at
FS77/88 double without/with electricity and two
10-bed dorms at F$35 pp (no electricity). Camp-
ing is F$27 pp with your own tent. David's bure
are larger and more comfortable than those at
Coral View. Since they started cutting the grass
the number of mosquitoes has declined, but the
communal toilets and showers are inadequate
when the place is full. Three huge meals are in-
cluded in the price with the Thursday lovo and
Saturday barbecue part of the regular meal plan
(opinions about the food vary). At David's you
don't get the free trips provided at Coral View
(beach trips F$5 each), and the optional tours
cost F$22 for the cave trip or to visit Naisilisili
village. David's solid restaurant/bar, with a con-
crete floor under the thatched roof, serves as a
hurricane shelter in times of need. David sells
cold beer, soft drinks, and cigarettes here, and af-
ternoon tea is available 1500-1630 to both
guests and nonguests at F$2 a piece for some of
the richest banana or chocolate cake in Fiji, plus
tea. It's an island institution. In the evening peo-
ple sit around playing backgammon and drinking
kava, and often someone sings a couple of
songs. In short, it's a good escape from civiliza-
tion, and you'll be made most welcome. David's
boats leave Lautoka Tuesday, Thursday, and
Saturday at 0830, returning from the island Mon-
day, Wednesday, and Friday (F$60 pp each
way). Bookings can be made through David's
Travel Service (tel. 724-244), office No. 31 up-
stairs in the arrivals concourse at Nadi Airport, or
at the tour desk in the Lautoka Hotel.
Your final choice is Otto's Place (Otto and
Fanny Doughty, P.O. Box 1349, Lautoka; tel. 661-
462 or 666-481), on spacious grounds near the
south end of the island. These remarkably hos-
pitable folks have two large double bungalows
with toilet, shower, and sink at F$80 single or dou-
ble, F$95 triple, plus $30 pp for three good meals.
Four newer thatched bure with private bath cost
the same. The single eight-bed dormitory is FS35
pp, plus the F$30 pp for meals. The generator is
on 1 800-2230, but the light is dim and fans are not
provided. Yachties and people from the other ho-
tels are welcome to order dinner here (F$1 2-1 7 pp
depending on what you want), so long as ample
notice is given. Afternoon tea is served 1 500-1 700
(tea and cake for F$2, or F$1 for tea/coffee only).
Ice cream and milkshakes are also available.
Fanny prepares all the desserts for Turtle Island,
which says something. Otto's offers privacy and a
bit more comfort for a slightly higher price, and
they may have beds available when all the others
are full. You can book through Westside Water-
sports in Lautoka, which also arranges boat trans-
fers at F$70 pp each way.
Coral View caters more to the youth market
while David's is fine for all ages. Pick Coral View
or David's if you want a lot of activities packed
into a brief stay, Otto's if you want to relax. Be
aware that bungalows on the island are in high
demand and unless you have firm reservations
you'll probably end up camping or staying in a
dorm. If you definitely want a bure and nothing
else, make this very clear when booking. Once
on Tavewa, it may be difficult to extend your
stay without taking somebody else's room. If
you're still in Lautoka and hear that your pre-
booked room is no longer available because
Copyrighted material
THE Y AS AW A ISLANDS 251
people already there decided to stay a few more
days, insist that it is they who must move into the
dormitory and not you. Unfortunately, these
things happen far too often.
Sports and Recreation
Westside Watersports has a dive shop on the
beach between David's and Otto's where the price
gets cheaper the more diving you do
(FS88/1 45/200 for one/two/three dives, subse-
quent dives F$55 each). Open-water scuba certi-
fication is FS450. Their two dive boats Absolute II
and Aftershock go out at 0900 and 1400, and
which side of the island you'll dive on depends
upon the wind. Aside from the spectacular under-
water topography, encounters with sea turtles,
reef sharks, and eagle rays are fairly common.
You can also rent snorkeling gear from Westside.
Blue Lagoon Cruises has leased a stretch of
beach at the south end of Tavewa where you
see a group of picnic tables. You're not supposed
to swim here when the tour groups are present,
otherwise it's the finest beach on the island.
six hours (or more), depending on weather con-
ditions and the quality of the boat. Coral View and
David's Place are very competitive, and David's
guests are sometimes not allowed to use Coral
View's better boat, the Sabob III. Don't expect
luxuries such as toilets on these boats, so limit
how much you drink before boarding. Also limit
what you eat, or take seasickness pills if you're a
poor sailor (a trip on one of the smaller boats can
be frightful in rough weather). Be prepared to
wade ashore at Tavewa.
You can also get to Tavewa on the South Sea
Cruises shuttle from Nadi and Lautoka for
FS70/135 one-way/round-trip. An island hop
from Tavewa to Naviti or Waya on their cata-
maran is FS55. The smaller backpacker resorts
on neighboring islands pick up guests at Tavewa.
Turtle Airways (tel. 722-921) sometimes offers
special "backpacker rates" on seaplane transfers
from Nadi to Tavewa.
ISLANDS AROUND TAVEWA
Getting There
The Tavewa boats leave from Lautoka's Fisheries
Wharf near Fiji Meats Tuesday, Thursday, and
Saturday mornings, returning to Lautoka on Mon-
day. Wednesday, and Friday (F$60 one-way). Try
to pay only a one-way fare on the boat up front, al-
lowing yourself the chance to go elsewhere if you
don't like the lodgings you're offered. The boat
ride from Lautoka can take anywhere from three to
Nacula Island
Ten-km-long Nacula, between Tavewa and Ya-
sawa islands, is the third largest in the chain.
From its contorted coastline rise hills like Naisau
(238 meters) and Korobeka (258 meters). Of the
four villages. Naisisili and Nacula are the most
important, and the Tui Drola, or chief of the middle
Yasawas, resides on the island. The island's un-
inhabited beaches have long been visited by
village house.
Nacula Village.
Yasawa Islands
naterial
252 THE YASAWA ISLANDS
backpacker tours from Tavewa, and recently five
budget resorts have been built on the island.
Meals are included in the rates quoted below.
Oarsman's Bay Lodge, on Long Beach at
the southwest end of Nacula. has a large dor-
mitory (F$45 pp) and six new self-contained
bure (F$100 double). The first reports are good.
(The owner of Turtle Island Resort provided an
interest free loan for the construction of Oars-
man's Bay.) Neighboring Nalova Bay has two
more bure at F$100 double.
Southeast toward Naisisili village are Mel-
bravo, run by Penaia and Laite, and Sailasa
Ratu's Nabua Lodge next door. Both offer dor-
mitory and bure accommodations with shared
bath on a good beach. Similar is Safe Landing
run by Joe Poasa and family on the other side of
Naisisili village. All three are F$35 pp in the dorm
or F$77 in double room.
Nanuya Lailai Island
Nanuya Lailai, between Tavewa and Turtle Is-
lands, is best known for Blue Lagoon Beach.
The snorkeling is about the finest in the area,
and this beach is often visited by cruise ship
passengers. Boatloads of backpackers arrive
from Tavewa for a swim when the packaged
tourists aren't around, and many yachts anchor
just offshore. You can tell the fish have been
fed from the way they swim straight at you.
Recently the island's seven families have es-
tablished five small backpacker resorts along
Enandala Beach on Nanuya Lailai's east side.
These folks are related to the Naisisili people over
on Nacula, so visits there are easily arranged.
Sunrise Lagoon Resort (tel. 650-289) is run
by a guy named Joe who charges F$77 double
in his five bure, or FS35 pp in the dorm. Camping
is F$25 pp (meals included).
Nearby is Seaspray with bure and dorm beds,
and Al's Paradise, run by Amelia and Alosio
Bogileka. They have two bure, one beachfront
and the other in the garden (F$77 pp), plus a
five-bed dorm (F$35 pp). You can get there on
the Coral View boat.
Just south is the Gold Coast Inn with five
bure at F$70 double and one eight-bed dorm at
F$35 pp. Camping is F$27 pp. Kim's Place, set
a bit back on a terrace, is similar (all prices in-
clude meals).
Matacawa Levu Island
As yet only one backpacker resort has appeared
on the long white beach beyond Vuaki village on
Matacawa Levu's south side. Long Beach Back-
packers (tel. 665-150) has six bure at F$100
double and an eight-bed dorm for F$51 pp.
All of the places just mentioned on Nacula,
Nanuya Lailai, and Matacawa Levu have only
opened very recently, so consider the details
above as merely a starting point for your own
inquiries. Check all prices carefully and ask which
meals are included.
At Nadi Airport, the Turtle Island Resort of-
fice (tel. 722-921), on the left beyond the Fiji
Visitors Bureau, should be able to provide more
information. Other booking agents at Nadi Airport
include Island Travel Tours (tel. 724-033 or 725-
930) in office No. 14 upstairs from arrivals, and
Rabua's Travel Agency (tel. 721-377 or 724-
364) in office No. 23. Caroline Tawake at
Tawake Travel & Tourist Information Center
(tel. 954-056), 159 Vitogo Parade. Lautoka, can
book any of these places.
Overseas bookings can be made through
South Pacific Holidays (10906 NE 39th St.,
Suite A-1 . Vancouver, WA 98682-6789, U.S.A.;
tel. 877/733-3454 or 360/944-1712, fax 360/253-
3934, website: www.fijibudget.com or www
.affordablefiji.net).
NANUYA LEVU ISLAND
In 1972 an eccentric American millionaire named
Richard Evanson bought 200-hectare Nanuya
Levu Island in the middle of the Yasawa Group
for US$300,000. He still lives there, and his Tur-
tle Island Resort (P.O. Box 9317, Nadi Airport;
tel. 722-921 or 663-889, fax 720-007) has gained
reputation as one ot the south racitic s ultimate
hideaways. Only 14 fan-cooled, two-room bure
grace Turtle, and Evanson swears there'll never
be more.
Turtle is Tavewa at 25 times the price. The
28 guests pay F$2,700 per couple per night (or
F$3,270 in a grand bure), but that includes all
meals, drinks, and activities. You'll find the fridge
in your cottage well stocked with beer, wine, soft
drinks, and champagne, refilled daily, with no
extra bill to pay when you leave. Sports such
as sailing, snorkeling, scuba diving, canoeing,
Copyrighted material
THE YASAWA ISLANDS 253
windsurfing, deep-sea fishing, horseback riding,
guided hiking, and moonlight cruising are all in-
cluded in the tariff. Lodge staff will even do your
laundry at no charge (only Lomi Lomi massage
costs extra).
If you want to spend the day on any of the
dozen secluded beaches, just ask and you'll be
dropped off. Later someone will be back with
lunch and a cooler of wine or champagne (or
anything else you'd care to order over the walkie-
talkie). Otherwise use the beach a few steps
from your door. Meals are served at remote and
romantic dine-out locations, or taken at the com-
munity table; every evening Richard hosts a
small dinner party. He's turned down many offers
to develop the island with hundreds more units or
to sell out for a multimillion-dollar price. That's not
Richard's style, and he's quite specific about
who he doesn't want to come: "Trendies, jetset-
ters, obnoxious imbibers, and plastic people
won't get much out of my place. Also, opinion-
ated, loud, critical grouches and anti-socials
should give us a miss." It has been reported that
the previous standard of "English-speaking
mixed couples only" has been dropped. Ringo
Starr is said to be a regular.
Of course, all this luxury and romance has a
price. Aside from the per diem, it's another F$1 ,71 0
per couple for roundtrip seaplane transportation to
the island from Nadi. There's also a six-night min-
imum stay, but as nearly half the guests are re-
peaters that doesn't seem to be an impediment.
(Turtle Island is off-limits to anyone other than
hotel guests.) Turtle's success may be measured
by its many imitators, including the Vatulele Is-
land Resort, the Wakaya Club, Qamea Beach
Club, Laucala Island, Kaimbu Island, Nukubati Is-
land Resort, and the Yasawa Island Resort.
Turtle Island has also set the standard for en-
vironmentally conscious resort development.
Aside from planting tens of thousands of trees
and providing a safe haven for birds, Evanson
has preserved the island's mangroves, cleverly
erecting a boardwalk to turn what others may
have considered an eyesore into a major at-
traction. A model of sustainability, the resort
grows 90 percent of its own herbs and vegeta-
bles in an organic garden, gets honey from its
own apiary, uses solar water heaters and wind-
powered generators, and makes its own furniture
from local timber. And some of Evanson's guests
do more than sun themselves. Every year since
1991 a group of California eye specialists has
briefly converted Turtle Island into an unlikely
clinic for dozens of Fijian villagers requiring eye
surgery or just a recycled pair of prescription
glasses, all for free. Nearly 160 local Fijians
have jobs here, all to serve 28 guests!
Recently Evanson began an innovative pro-
gram to save the endangered green and hawks-
bill turtles of the Yasawas. The resort now pur-
chases all live turtles brought in by hunters, and
auctions them to resort guests, with all proceeds
going to the staff fund. The names of the new
"owners" are painted on the shells, and the rep-
tiles are released. Although the paint does no
harm to the turtles, it renders their shells worth-
less in the turtle shell market, thereby prolonging
the animals lives.
Evanson has a reputation in Fiji, and some
former Fijian employees have complained about
being fed vegetarian food and subjected to au-
thoritarian discipline. Contemporary Captain Bligh
or not, Richard certainly is a character. During the
2000 coup turmoil, Turtle Island was briefly oc-
cupied by villagers from Naisisili on nearby Nac-
ula. They claimed that the island had been wrong-
fully given away by a Fijian chief in 1 868 and still
belonged to them. Over many bowls of kava,
Evanson and the villagers came to an under-
standing, and Turtle Island is again as safe as
safe can be. In true Hollywood fashion, some of
the interlopers have now established backpack-
er resorts of their own on neighboring islands— all
with Richard's blessing and full support! And so
life continues on these legendary isles.
SAWA-I-LAU ISLAND
On Sawa-i-Lau is a large limestone cave illumi-
nated by a crevice at the top. There's a clear,
deep pool in the cave where you can swim, and
an underwater opening leads back into a small-
er, darker cave (bring a light). A Fijian legend
tells how a young chief once hid his love in this
cave when her family wished to marry her off to
another. Each day he brought her food until both
could escape to safety on another island. In the
1980 film Blue Lagoon, Brooke Shields runs
away to this very cave. Many cruise ships stop at
the cave and the backpacker resorts on Tavewa
Copyrighted material
254 THE YASAWA ISLANDS
also run tours. Yachties should present a sevu-
sevu to the chief of Nabukeru village, just west of
the cave, to visit.
YASAWA ISLAND
The Tui Yasawa, highest chief of the group, re-
sides at Yasawairara village at the north end of Ya-
sawa, northernmost island of the Yasawa group.
For many years the Fiji government had a
policy that the Yasawas were "closed" to land-
based tourism development, and it was only
after the 1987 coups that approval was granted
for the construction of Yasawa Island Resort
(Garth and Denise Downey, P.O. Box 10128.
Nadi Airport; tel. 663-364 or 722-266, fax 665-
044 or 724-456). This exclusive Australian-
owned resort opened in 1991 on a creamy white
beach on Yasawa's upper west side. Most of
the resort's employees come from Bukama vil-
lage, which owns the land.
The accommodations of four a/c duplexes at
FS1.690 double, 10 one-bedroom deluxes at
FS1.915, and a honeymoon unit at FS2.365. A
complete refurbishment of the units took place in
2001 . All meals are included, but, unlike at most
other resorts in this category, alcoholic drinks
are not. Scuba diving, game fishing, and mas-
sage also cost extra. The Yasawa's only swim-
ming pool is here. Guests arrive on a chartered
flight (FS700 pp round-trip), which lands on the
resort's private airstrip. Children under 12 are
only admitted in January.
Copyrighted material
KADAVU 255
KADAVU
This big, 50-by-13-km island 100 km south of
Suva is the fourth largest in Fiji (41 1 square km).
A mountainous, varied island with waterfalls
plummeting from the rounded rainforested hill-
tops, Kadavu is outstanding for its vistas, beach-
es, and reefs. The three hilly sections of Kadavu
are joined by two low isthmuses, with the sea
biting so deeply into the island that on a map its
shape resembles that of a wasp. Just northeast of
the main island is smaller Ono Island and the
fabulous Astrolabe Reef, stretching halfway to
Suva. A process is now underway to have Ono's
fringing reefs declared a marine conservation
area. The birdlife is rich with some species of
honeyeaters, fantails, and velvet fruit doves found
only here. The famous red-and-green Kadavu
musk parrots may be seen and heard.
In the 1 870s steamers bound for New Zealand
and Australia would call at the onetime whaling
station at Galoa Harbor to pick up passengers
and goods, and Kadavu was considered as a
possible site for a new capital of Fiji. Instead
Suva was chosen and Kadavu was left to lead its
sleepy village life; only today is the outside world
making a comeback with the arrival of roads,
planes, and a handful of visitors. Some 10,000 in-
digenous Fijians live in 60 remote villages scat-
tered around the island.
SIGHTS
The airstrip and wharf are each a 10-minute
walk, in different directions, from the post office
and hospital in the tiny government station of
Vunisea, the largest of Kadavu's villages and
headquarters of Kadavu Province. Vunisea is
strategically located on a narrow, hilly isthmus
where Galoa Harbor and Namalata Bay almost
cut Kadavu in two.
The longest sandy beach on the island is at
Drue, an hour's walk north from Vunisea. An-
other good beach is at Muani village, eight km
south of Vunisea by road. Just two km south of
the airstrip by road and a 10-minute hike inland
is Waikana Falls. Cool spring water flows over a
10-meter-high rocky cliff between two deep
pools, the perfect place for a refreshing swim
256 KADAVU
on a hot day. A second falls six km east of Vu-
nisea is even better.
The women of Namuana village just west of
the airstrip can summon giant turtles up from
the sea by singing traditional chants to the vu
(ancestral spirits) Raunidalice and Tinadi Cabo-
ga. On a bluff 60 meters above the sea, the gar-
landed women begin their song, and in 15 min-
utes a large turtle will appear. This turtle, and
sometimes its mates, will swim up and down
slowly offshore just below the overhanging rocks.
For various reasons, the calling of turtles is per-
formed very rarely these days.
West of Vunisea
A road crosses the mountains from Namuana
to Tavuki village, seat of the Tui Tavuki, para-
mount chief of Kadavu. A couple of hours west
on foot is the Yawe District, where large pine
tracts have been established. In the villages of
Nalotu, Yakita, and Naqalotu at Yawe, tradition-
al Fijian pottery is still made. Without potter's
wheel or kiln, the women shape the pots with a
paddle and fire them in an open fire. Sap from
the mangroves provides a glaze.
Another road runs along the south coast from
Vunisea to Nabukelevuira at the west end of Ka-
davu. There's good surfing at Cape Washington in
this area, and a deluxe surf camp on Denham Is-
land just off the cape caters to the needs of surfers.
The abrupt extinct cone of Nabukelevu (Mt.
Washington) dominates the west end of Kadavu
and petrels nest in holes on the north side of the
mountain. It's possible to climb Nabukelevu (838
meters) from Nabukelevuira. There's no trail —
you'll need a guide to help you hack a way.
Copyrighted material
KADAVU 257
Shoppers from outlying
villages headed for
Kadavu's market land
on this beach near
Vunisea. The hiking
trails of Kadavu vie with
untouched beaches
such as this one in
"downtown'' Vunisea.
The Great Astrolabe Reef
The Great Astrolabe Reef stretches unbroken
for 30 km along the east side of the small is-
lands north of Kadavu. One km wide, the reef is
unbelievably rich in coral and marinelife, and
because it's so far from shore, it still hasn't been
fished out. The reef surrounds a lagoon con-
taining 10 islands, the largest of which is 30-
square-km Ono. The reef was named by French
explorer Dumont d'Urville, who almost lost his
ship, the Astrolabe, here in 1 827.
There are frequent openings on the west side
of the reef and the lagoon is never over 10 fath-
oms deep, which makes it a favorite of scuba
divers and yachties. The Astrolabe also features
a vertical drop-off of 10 meters on the inside
and 1 ,800 meters on the outside, with visibility up
to 75 meters. The underwater caves and walls
here must be seen to be believed. However, the
reef is exposed to unbroken waves generated by
the southeast trades and diving conditions are
often dependent on the weather. Surfing is pos-
sible at Vesi Passage (boat required).
Many possibilities exist for ocean kayaking in
the protected waters around Ono Channel, and
there are several inexpensive resorts at which to
stay. Kayak rentals may not be available, thus
one should bring along a folding kayak on the
boat from Suva. Several companies mentioned
in this book's main introduction offer kayaking
tours to Kadavu.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Around Vunisea
Manueli and Tamalesi Vuruya run Biana Ac-
commodation (P.O. Box 13, Vunisea; tel. 336-
010), on a hill overlooking Namalata Bay near the
jetty at Vunisea. The six rooms are F$40/55 sin-
gle/double including breakfast, plus F$5 each
for a real Fijian lunch or dinner (or you can cook).
They ask that you call ahead before coming.
Nakuita Island Resort (Bill and Serima
Reece, P.O. Box 6, Vunisea, Kadavu; tel. 336-
097). formerly Reece's Place, on tiny Galoa Is-
land just off the northwest corner of Kadavu,
was the first to accommodate visitors to Kadavu,
and it's still the least expensive place to stay
around Vunisea station. It's a 15-minute walk
from the airstrip to the dock, then a short launch
ride to Galoa itself (F$8 pp round-trip). There
are 1 8 beds in three Fijian bure and three two-
room houses at F$15 pp, and a F$9 five-bed
dormitory. Pitch your tent for F$6 pp. Unless
you have a camp stove, cooking your own food
is not possible, but Serima is an excellent cook
and three ample meals can be had for F$18 pp.
There could be minor water problems. They use
an electric generator in the evening. The view of
Galoa Harbor from Reece's Place is excellent,
and there's a long beach nearby, but the snor-
keling in the murky water is poor. For a small
258 KADAVU
fee they'll take you out to the Galoa Barrier Reef,
where the snorkeling is vastly superior. Scuba
diving and PADI certification courses are also
offered. They'll also take you surfing on the Great
Astrolabe. If you're there on Sunday, consider at-
tending the service in the village church to hear
the wonderful singing. Call ahead to check prices
and availability.
A much more upscale operation is Matana
Beach Resort (P.O. Box 8, Vunisea, Kadavu;
tel. 31 1 -780, fax 303-860) at Drue, six km north
of Vunisea. The two ocean-view bum on the hill-
side are FS200/330 single/double, while the six
larger beachfront units are FS220/370/495/580
single/double/triple/quad, three meals included
(three-night minimum stay, children under 12
not accepted). Boat transfers from Vunisea air-
port are also part of the package. Sunsets over
Mt. Washington from the bar's open terrace can
be spectacular. Matana caters almost exclu-
sively to scuba divers who've booked from
abroad with Dive Kadavu. The morning two-
tank boat dive is F$165. Their PADI open-water
certification course is F$720. This whole opera-
tion meets the highest international standards.
Windsurfers, sea kayaks, and paddle-boards
are free. The snorkeling off Matana's golden
beach is good, and the fantastic Namalata Reef
is straight out from the resort (the Great Astrolabe
Reef is an hour away). To snorkel from the dive
boat is F$35.
The Papageno Eco Resort (tel. 303-355, fax
303-533), formerly Malawai Resort, is on the
north side of Kadavu 15 km east of Vunisea and
accessible only by boat. The four colonial-style
cottages are FS340/56S730 single/double/triple
including meals, airport transfers, and tax. The
main house of this 140-hectare plantation is
used as the resort's dining room. The usual
sporting activities can be arranged.
Off West Kadavu
In April 2000 a surfing camp opened on tiny
Denham Island off Cape Washington called
Nagigia Island (P.O. Box 12, Vunisea; tel. 315-
774). The seven neat little bungalows perched on
a limestone cliff are F$350 pp if you're willing
to share a double or F$400 single. The price in-
cludes transfers from Vunisea Airport, meals,
and surfing boats. Scuba diving and fishing cost
extra. There's good swimming directly below
the units and at nearby sandy beaches. The tra-
ditional surfing season is April to November, but
this resort has excellent surf during the other
months as well, due to its outer reefs curving
270 degrees. For surfing details and advice on
transporting your boards, consult their website.
On East Kadavu
Albert's Place (Albert and Ruth O'Connor, do
P.O. Naleca, Kadavu; tel. 336-086) is near the
Great Astrolabe Reef at Lagalevu at the east
end of Kadavu. It's similar to the Nakuita Island
Resort but more remote. Each of the 10 small
bum has a double and a single bed, coconut
mats on the floor, and a kerosene lamp for light
at FS 16/32 single/double, or F$12 pp in a six-bed
dorm. Camping is F$9 pp. The units share rustic
flush toilets and cold showers with plenty of run-
ning water (except during droughts), and every-
thing is kept fairly clean. Mosquito nets and coils
are supplied.
Meals cost another F$25 pp for all three, and
Ruth O'Connor and her daughter Ramona serve
huge portions. Their meals are exceptional, con-
sisting of fresh fish, lobster, chicken curry, or
seafood soup, and they bake their own bread
daily. If you wish to do your own cooking, ask
about this when booking, and bring your own
stove and food, as little is available in Michel
and Jesse's small store on the premises. There
are several lovely waterfalls nearby where you
can swim, and in the evening everybody sits
around the kava bowl and swaps stories. As
there are never more than 20 guests here at a
time, it gets very chummy. The snorkeling off
Albert's beach is excellent though the swimming
is only good at high tide (Jona s on Ono has a far
superior beach). Scuba with Naiqoro Divers
(run by Albert's sons Bruce and Julian) is
F$40/80 for one/two tank boat dives, plus F$20
a day for equipment. A five-day package with
10 dives is F$330. Shore dives are F$15 a tank
if you have your own gear (a good idea as the
supply here is limited). Naiqoro dives on both
sides of the reef (some other area scuba opera-
tors only dive on the inner side).
The easiest way to get there from Suva is by
boat on the Bulou-ni-Ceva, which will bring you
directly to Albert's Place or to Kavala Bay (a
good hour west of Albert's on foot). Albert will
pick you up at Vunisea Airport at F$60 for the first
one or F$25 pp for three or more for the two-
hour boat ride (these prices are fixed, so don't
Copyrighted material
KADAVU 259
bother bargaining). Be sure to let him know
you're coming. It's wise to allow plenty of time
coming and going — plan a stay at Albert's Place
early on in your visit to Fiji so you don't have to
be in a big rush to leave. People rave about this
property, just don't expect luxuries like electrici-
ty at those prices!
The Waisalima Beach Resort (P.O. Box 1366,
Suva; tel. 336-081 or 321-899, fax 321 -899) faces
a two-km beach on the north side of Kadavu, be-
tween Albert's and Kavala Bay. This property
was known as the Nukubalavu Adventure Re-
sort until a fire destroyed the facilities in 1998,
and the new Waisalima is primarily a dive center.
The bure are F$50/65/75 single/double/triple with
shared bath, or F$95/1 30/1 50 with private bath.
Camping is FS8/12/15, or it's F$15 pp in the dorm.
Waisalima's three-meal plan is F$42 pp and the
food is good and substantial (usually fish). Cook-
ing facilities are not available. Land is for sale
here (see their website), if you'd like to build a
vacation home. The gorgeous Great Astrolabe
Reef is only a five-minute boat ride away. Tur-
tles, sharks, and big fish are seen on most chan-
nel dives, and the fish and coral on the reefs are
first rate too. Two-tank dives are F$120, plus
F$25 for gear. An open water certification course
will cost F$450. Diving at Waisalima is cheaper
than at the Matana Resort, though they don't
have the same kind of boats available. The
Waisalima launch can pick you up at Vunisea
airport (F$50 pp each way with a two-person min-
imum), or come on the Bulou-ni-Ceva.
Not to be confused with the Matana Resort
is Matava, The Astrolabe Hideaway (P.O. Box
63, Vunisea; tel. 336-098, fax 336-099), a 30-
minute walk east of Kadavu village and almost
opposite tiny Waya Island. The brown sandy
beach in front of Matava is rather shallow but
the snorkeling off Waya is fine. There are three
thatched oceanview bure with private bath and
solar lighting at F$105 single or double, three
waterfront bure with private bath at F$89, two
waterfront bure with shared bath at F$50, and
one dormitory at F$17 pp. The meal plan is F$42
pp. Scuba diving is available at F$55/1 05/495 for
one/two/10 tanks, plus F$22 for equipment. PADI
open-water certification is F$495. Surfing trips
are F$30, plus F$20 for board hire (if required).
Kayaks, canoes, and windsurfers are for rent.
Snorkeling trips to the Great Astrolabe Reef are
F$1 5 pp, plus F$10 for gear (if required). Guided
two or three-day hiking trips with accommoda-
tions in Fijian villages can be arranged. Boat
transfers from the airport are F$27 pp each way.
Accommodations on Ono
Jona s Paradise Resort (P.O. Box 8, Vunisea;
tel. 307-058), at Vabea on the southern tip of
Ono Island, offers accommodation in five tradi-
tional beach bure at F$70/1 40 single/double, or
camping at F$36 pp (minimum stay three nights).
The deluxe bure is F$1 60 double. Children under
12 are welcome at F$35 in the parent's bure.
Otherwise it's F$50 pp in the dorm or F$40 pp in
a tent. All prices include three tasty meals but you
might bring a few snack foods with you. It's a
small, family-style resort with a steep white-sand
beach, great snorkeling (hundreds of clownf ish in
crystal-clear water). Dive Kadavu has recently
opened a base at the resort (see the Matana
Beach Resort listing above for scuba rates).
Husband Jona is the best fisherman around (ex-
pect fresh fish every day and mud crab occa-
sionally), wife Ledua is a super cook, son Veita is
an expert guide, and grandfather Villame is a
master builder. One reader called this place "the
image of paradise." The ferry Bulou-ni-Ceva
drops passengers here once or twice a week, or
you can arrange to be collected at Vunisea air-
port (F$50 pp each way).
OTHER PRACTICALITIES
Vunisea has no restaurants, but a coffee shop at
the airstrip opens mornings, and two general
stores sell canned goods. A woman at the mar-
ket serves tea and scones when the market is
open, Tuesday-Saturday. Buy waka at the co-op
store for formal presentations to village hosts.
No banks are to be found on Kadavu, so
change enough money before coming (and don't
leave it unattended in your room or tent). Oc-
casional carriers ply the 78 km of roads on Ka-
davu, but no buses.
GETTING THERE
Air Fiji arrives from Suva once a day (F$70) and
Sun Air has daily flights from Nadi (F$90). Be
Copyrighted material
260 KADAVU
sure to reconfirm your return flight immediately
upon arrival. Only Nakuita Island Resort meets all
flights — boat pickups by the resorts on east Ka-
davu and Ono must be prearranged.
The speedboats to east Kadavu are usually
without safety equipment or roofs and in rough
weather everything could get wet. Have sun-
block and a hat ready if it's sunny, bring rain
gear if it's not, as it's a 1 .5-hour ride to east
Kadavu or Ono. There's no road from Vunisea
to east Kadavu.
Boats arrive at Vunisea from Suva about twice
a week, calling at villages along the north coast.
The MV Bubu-ni-Ceva of the Kadavu Shipping
Co. (tel. 31 1-766) plies between Suva and Ka-
davu twice a week. Take seasickness precau-
tions before boarding. For details turn to Trans-
portation in the Suva section.
THE LOMAIVITI GROUP 261
THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
The Lomaiviti (or central Fiji) Group lies in the
Koro Sea near the heart of the archipelago, east
of Viti Levu and south of Vanua Levu. Of its nine
main volcanic islands, Gau, Koro, and Ovalau
are among the largest in Fiji. Lomaiviti's climate
is moderate, neither as wet and humid as Suva,
nor as dry and hot as Nadi. The population is
mostly Fijian, engaged in subsistence agricul-
ture and copra making.
The old capital island, Ovalau, is by far the
best known and most visited island of the group,
and several small islands south of Ovalau on
the way to Suva bear popular backpackers' re-
sorts. Naigani also has a tourist resort of its own,
but Koro and Gau are seldom visited, due to a
lack of facilities for visitors. Ferries ply the Koro
Sea to Ovalau, while onward ferries run to Vanua
Levu a couple of times a week.
0 DAVID STANLEY
THE LOMAIVITI
GROUP
<=3
OCEAN
material
262 THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
OVALAU ISLAND
Ovalau, a large volcanic island just east of Viti
Levu, is the main island of the Lomaiviti Group.
Almost encircled by high peaks, the Lovoni Val-
ley in the center of Ovalau is actually the island's
volcanic crater and about the only flat land. The
crater's rim is pierced by the Bureta River, which
escapes through a gap to the southeast. The
highest peak is 626-meter Nadelaiovalau (mean-
ing, the top of Ovalau), behind Levuka. Luckily
Ovalau lacks the magnificent beaches found
elsewhere in Fiji, which has kept the package-
tour crowd away, and upscale scuba divers have
better places to go, so it's still one of the most
peaceful, pleasant, picturesque, and historic
areas to visit in the South Pacific.
LEVUKA
The town of Levuka on Ovalau's east side was
Fiji's capital until the shift to Suva in 1882. Found-
ed as a whaling settlement in 1830, Levuka be-
came the main center for European traders in
Fiji, and a British consul was appointed in 1 857.
The cotton boom of the 1860s brought new set-
tlers, and Levuka quickly grew into a boisterous
town with over 50 hotels and taverns along Beach
Street. Escaped convicts and debtors fleeing
creditors in Australia swelled the throng, until it
was said that a ship could find the reef passage
into Levuka by following the empty gin bottles
floating out on the tide. The honest traders felt
the need for a stable government, so in 1871 Le-
vuka became capital of Cakobau's Kingdom of
Fiji. The disorders continued, with extremist ele-
ments forming a "Ku Klux Klan," defiant of any
form of Fijian authority.
On October 1 0, 1 874, a semblance of decorum
came as Fiji was annexed by Great Britain and a
municipal council was formed in 1877. British
rule soon put a damper on the wild side of the
blackbirding. Ovalau's central location seemed
ideal for trade, and sailing boats from Lau or
Vanua Levu could easily enter the port on the
southeast trades. Yet the lush green hills that
rise behind the town were to be its downfall, as
colonial planners saw that there was no room
for the expansion of their capital, and in August
1 882 Gov. Sir Arthur Gordon moved his staff to
Suva. Hurricanes in 1888 and 1895 destroyed
much of early Levuka, with the north end of town
around the present Anglican church almost flat-
tened, and many of Levuka's devastated build-
ings were not replaced.
Levuka remained the collection center for the
Fiji copra trade right up until 1957, and the town
seemed doomed when that industry, too, moved
to a new mill in Suva. But with the establishment
THE RIDDLE OF THE JOYITA
One of the strangest episodes in recent Pacific history
is indirectly related to Levuka. On November 10,
1955. the crew of the trading ship Tuvalu sighted the
drifting, half -sunken shape of the 70-ton MV Joyita,
I lilt Till \nU — — /V)/\Knr O K^. J I—, CnltnfAn in
wnicn nao len Apia on uctoDer j Douna tor raKaoto in
the Tokelau Islands north of Samoa, carrying seven
Europeans and 18 Polynesians. The Joyita had been
chartered by Tokelau's district officer to take badly
needed supplies to the atolls and pick up their copra,
which was rotting on the beach. When the vessel
was reported overdue, a fruitless aerial search began,
which only ended with the chance discovery by the
Tuvalu some 1 50 km north of Fiji. There was no sign
of the 25 persons aboard, and sacks of flour, rice,
and sugar had been removed from the ship Also
missing were 40 drums of kerosene, seven i
aluminum strips, and the three life rafts.
The ghost ship was towed to Fiji and beached. In-
vestigators found that the engines had been flooded
due to a broken pipe in the saltwater cooling system,
the rudder had been jammed, and the radio equip-
ment wrecked. The navigation lights and galley stove
were switched on. The Joyita hadn't sunk because
the holds were lined with eight centimeters of cork.
Though several books and countless newspaper
and magazine articles have been written about the
Joyita mystery, no one has learned what realty hap-
pened, and none any of the missing persons have
ever been seen since. Some relics of the Joyita can
be seen in the Levuka Community Center.
Copyrighted material
OVALAU ISLAND 263
of a fishing industry in 1964 Levuka revived, and
today it's is a minor educational center, the head-
quarters of Lomaiviti Province, and a low-key
tourist center. Thanks to the tuna cannery, there's
a public electricity supply.
It's rather shocking that Levuka still hasn't been
approved by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site,
because Levuka is to Fiji what Lahaina is to
Hawaii, a slice of living history. The false-fronted
buildings and covered sidewalks along Beach
Street give this somnolent town of 4.000 mostly Fi-
jian or part-Fijian inhabitants a 19th-century, Wild
West feel. From the waterfront, let your eyes follow
the horizon from left to right to view the islands of
Makogai, Koro, Wakaya, Nairai, Batiki, and Gau
respectively. Levuka's a perfect base for excur-
sions into the mountains, along the winding coast,
or out to the barrier reef a kilometer offshore.
It's customary to say "Good morning." "Bula, "or
simply "Hello" to people you meet while strolling
around Levuka. especially on the backstreets,
and the locals have been rather put off by tourists
who failed to do so. This is one of the little ad-
verse effects of tourism, and a very unnecessary
one at that.
SIGHTS
Near Queen's Wharf is the old Morris Hedstrom
general store, erected by Percy Morris and May-
nard Hedstrom in 1880s, great-granddaddy of to-
day's Pacific-wide Morris Hedstrom chain. The
store closed when the lease expired in 1979 and
the building was turned over to the National Trust
for Fiji. In 1981 the facility reopened as the Le-
vuka Community Center (tel. 440-356; closed
weekends) with a museum and library, where can-
nibal forks vie with war clubs and clay pots for
your attention. The many old photos of the town in
the museum are fascinating, and a few relics of the
mystery ship Joyita are on display. The Community
Center receives no outside funding and your F$2
admission fee helps keep this place going.
Stroll north along Levuka's sleepy waterfront
past a long row of wooden store fronts that haven't
OVALAU
To Nabouwalu
Naigani/J)
Koro Sea
^».BR pj „ f „ SFERRy
Qata
Wand
/
Moturiki
IshinJ
Cagalai Island
Mulunki Chtinnfl
< km
264 THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
changed much in a century. The sea wall opposite
was constructed by the Royal Engineers in 1874.
Just beyond the wall is the Church of the Sa-
cred Heart, erected by French Marist priests who
arrived in 1858. The church's square clock tower
was added in 1898 to commemorate the first
priest. Father Breheret. The green neon cross on
the stone tower lines up with another green light
farther up the hill to guide mariners into port. The
tower's French clock strikes the hour twice with a
minute interval in between. Go through the gate
behind the church to the formidable Marist Con-
vent School (1892), originally a girls school op-
erated by the sisters and still a primary school.
Totogo Lane leads north from the convent to
a small bridge over Totogo Creek and the
Ovalau Club (1904), adjoining the old Town
Hall (1898). also known as Queen Victoria
Memorial Hall. Next to the town hall is the gutted
shell of the Masonic Lodge building, founded
as "Little Polynesia" in 1875 and erected in 1924.
In July 2000, the lodge was burned down by a
frenzied mob from Lovoni. which had been told
by superstitious preachers that it was a center of
devil worship.
Follow Garner Jones Road west up the creek
to the Levuka Public School (1879), the birth-
place of Fiji's present public educational sys-
tem. Before World War I the only Fijians allowed
to attend this school were the sons of chiefs.
Other Levuka firsts include Fiji's first newspa-
per (1869), first Masonic Lodge (1875), first bank
(1876), and first municipal council (1877).
Continue straight up Garner Jones Road for
about 15 minutes, past the lovely colonial-era
houses, and you'll eventually reach a locked
gate at the entrance to the town's water catch-
ment. A trail on the right just before the gate
leads down to a pool in the river below the catch-
ment where you can swim. Overhead you may
see swallows that live in a cave just upstream.
The path to The Peak branches off to the left
between a large steel water tank and the gate at
the end of the main trail. It takes about an hour to
scale The Peak through the dense bush, and
an experienced guide will be required.
As you come back down the hill, turn left onto
Church St. and follow it around past the sports
field (once a Fijian village site) to Navoka
Methodist Church (1862). From beside this
church. 199 concrete steps ascend Mission Hill to
Delana Methodist High School, which affords fine
views. The mission school formed here by Rev.
John Binner in 1 852 was the first of its kind in Fiji.
North of Levuka
On a low hill farther north along the waterfront is
the European War Memorial, which recalls
British residents of Levuka who died in World
War I. Before Fiji was ceded to Britain, the
Cakobau government headquarters was situated
on this hill. The 1 870s cottage on the hilltop across
the street from the monument is called Sailors
Home for the steamship Sailors Home, which
worked the England to China route in the 1 850s.
OVALAU ISLAND 265
The Holy Redeemer Anglican Church (1904)
farther north has period stained-glass windows.
Follow the coastal road north from Levuka to
a second yellow bridge, where you'll see the old
Methodist church (1869) on the left. Ratu Seru
Cakobau worshiped here and in the small ceme-
tery behind the church is the grave of the first
U.S. consul to Fiji, John Brown Williams (1810-
1860). For the story of Williams's activities, see
History and Government in the main introduction.
Levuka Creek here marks the town's northern
boundary. Across the bridge and beneath a large
dilo tree is the tomb of an old king of Levuka.
The large house in front of the tree is the resi-
dence of the present Tui Levuka, customary
chief of this area.
Directly above this house is Gun Rock, which
was used as a target by the captain of the HMS
Havanah in 1849. The intention, of course, was
to demonstrate to Cakobau the efficacy of a
ship's cannon so he might be more consider-
ate to resident Europeans. In 1874, Commodore
Goodenough pumped a few more rounds into
the hill to entertain a group of Fijian chiefs, and
the scars can still be seen. Long before that,
the early Fijians had a fort atop the Rock to de-
fend themselves against the Lovoni hill tribes.
Ask permission of the Tui Levuka (the "Roko") or
a member of his household to climb Gun Rock
for a splendid view of Levuka. If a small boy
leads you up and down, it wouldn't be out of
place to give him something for his trouble.
Continue north on the road, around a bend
and past the ruin of a large concrete building,
and you'll reach a cluster of government housing
on the site of a cricket field where the Duke of
York (later King George V) played in 1878.
There's a beautiful deep pool and waterfall
behind Waitovu village, about two km north of Le-
vuka. You may swim here, but please don't skin-
ny-dip; this is offensive to the local people and has
led to confrontations in the past. Since they're
good enough to let you use this idyllic spot (which
they own), it's common courtesy to respect their
wishes. (Also, avoid arriving on a Sunday.)
At Cawaci, a 30-minute walk beyond the
Ovalau Holiday Resort, is a small white mau-
soleum (1 922) high up on a point with the tombs
of Fiji's first and second Catholic bishops, Bish-
op Julien Vidal and Bishop Charles Joseph
Nicholas. The large coral stone church (1897) of
St. John's College is nearby. This is the original
seat of the Catholic Church in Fiji and the sons of
the Fijian chiefs were educated here from 1 894
onwards. The church's walls are three meters
thick around the buttresses.
South of Levuka
The Pacific Fishing Company tuna cannery
(P.O. Box 41 . Levuka; tel. 440-055, fax 440-
400) is just south of Queen's Wharf. A Japanese
cold-storage facility opened here in 1964, the
cannery in 1975. After sustaining losses for four
years, the Japanese company involved in the
joint venture pulled out in 1986, turning the facility
over to the government, which now owns the
view of Levuka as seen
from Gun Rock
naterial
266 THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
The Provincial Council
meeting place at
Levuka is built to
resemble a traditional
Fijian chief's bure.
cannery. In 1989 a F$2 million state-of-the-art
can-making factory opened alongside the can-
nery, and major improvements to the wharf,
freezer, storage, and other facilities were com-
pleted in 1992. The plant is supplied with alba-
core tuna caught in Kiribati and Solomon Island
waters by Taiwanese long-line fishing boats,
and with skipjack and yellowf in by pole-and-line
ships. For both environmental and quality-con-
trol reasons, fish caught with dolphin-killing nets
are not accepted here. Part of the 1 5,000 metric
tons of tuna processed and canned by Pafco
each year is marketed in Britain by Sainsbury's
and John West, and in Canada by B.C. Packers.
In 1 999 a five-year agreement was signed with
the U.S. seafood company Bumble Bee to sup-
ply tuna loins to a cannery in San Diego, Cali-
fornia, now Pafco's largest market. Seven hun-
dred residents of Ovalau have jobs directly re-
lated to tuna canning and the government has
heavily subsidized the operation to keep it going.
A little farther along is the Cession Monu-
ment, where the Deed of Cession, which made
Fiji a British colony, was signed by Chief
Cakobau in 1874. The traditional bure on the
other side of the road was used by Prince
Charles during his 1970 visit to officiate at Fiji's
independence. It's now the venue of provincial
council meetings. The adjacent European-style
bungalow is known as Old Government House
and the tribesmen who burned the Masonic Hall
are rumored to believe that another secret tunnel
begins beneath the building.
One of Fiji's most rewarding hikes begins at
Draiba village, a kilometer south of the Cession
Monument. A road to the right around the first
bend and just after a small bridge, marks the
start of the 4.5-hour hike through enchanting
forests and across clear streams to Lovoni vil-
lage. Go straight back on this side road till you
see an overgrown metal scrap yard on your right,
near the end of the road. Walk through the mid-
dle of the scrap yard and around to the right
past two huge mango trees. The unmarked
Lovoni trail begins at the foot of the hill, just be-
yond the trees.
The Lovoni trail is no longer used by the locals
and requires attentiveness to follow, so consid-
er Epi's Midland Tour if you're not an experi-
enced hiker. Be sure to reach Lovoni before
1 500 to be able to catch the last bus back to
Levuka. In 1855 the fierce Lovoni tribe, the
Ovalau, burned Levuka. and they continued to
threaten the town right up until 1871 when they
were finally captured during a truce and sold to
European planters as laborers. In 1875 the
British government allowed the survivors to return
to their valley, where their descendants live
today. In July 2000 a Lovoni mob again ran
amuck through Levuka during the George
Speight coup attempt.
If you forgo this hike and continue on the main
road, you'll come to an old cemetery a little
south of Draiba. A few kilometers farther is the
Devils Thumb, a dramatic volcanic plug tow-
ering above Tokou village, one of the scenic
OVALAU ISLAND 267
THE TUNNELS OF LEVUKA
Early on Monday, July 10, 2000, toward the end of
the hostage crisis in Suva, a mob from the mountain
village of Lovoni sacked and burned Levukas historic
Masonic Lodge. They had first attempted to storm
Queen s Wharf, but when the soldiers on duty there
fired warning shots, the mob turned its attention to
the lodge. Senior members of the Methodist Church
in Levuka had been telling their parishioners for
years that the lodge was a center of immorality and
devil worship. Rumors also abounded of secret tun-
nels beneath the building that led to the Royal Hotel,
or to Nasova House near the Cession Monument
south of town. A few true believers were even con-
vinced that a tunnel existed through the core of the
earth to Scotland, the headquarters of the Masonic
movement!
Frustrated at the wharf and unable to take over the
nearby police station, the Lovoni people broke the
lodge's windows and poured in gasoline; the lodge
was soon set alight. An hysterical throng of 300
cheered and shouted, "Out with the devil!" as the
building burned, and it's alleged that the talatala
(head priest) of the local Methodist Church observed
the entire event in ecstasy from Mission Hill. Some
looting took place, and among the objects taken by
highlights of Fiji. Catholic missionaries set up a
printing press at Tokou in 1889 to produce
gospel lessons in Fijian, and in the center of the
village is a sculpture of a lion made by one of the
earty priests. It's five km back to Levuka.
Wainaloka village on the southwest side of
Ovalau is inhabited by descendants of Solomon
Islanders from the Lau Lagoon region who were
blackbirded in Fiji over a century ago.
Devokula Cultural Village
A Fijian cultural program for visitors has been
created at Devokula on northern Ovalau, 1 1 km
from Levuka. Day tours from Levuka include a
welcoming ceremony at the village, followed by
a village walk and a medicinal plant tour. A hand-
icraft demonstration is presented, then there's a
lovo lunch. This intensive short course in Fijian
culture is followed by a Fijian meke with tradi-
tional dancing. The tour runs from 1 1 00-1 530 at
F$30 pp with a minimum of six participants. It's
also possible to stay in the village at F$55 pp
the mob were ceremonial swords and a human skull,
a Masonic symbol of equality and mortality. What
was never found was any trace of a tunnel, nor any
of the ghostly British masons thought to use the
passageway to attend secret rites.
All of this happened in support of the demand for
amnesty by the George Speight terrorists in Fiji's
parliament, and the mob was disciplined by an agi-
tator named Bill, who made sure that none of Le-
vukas shops or other historic monuments were loot-
ed (only a few windows had been broken). The same
group also invaded Levuka s tuna cannery and oc-
cupied it for several days. Later, when the army and
police regained control of the town, some 1 20 people
were identified as participants in the sacking of the
lodge, most of them eventually being released by
the courts. In recent years membership in the Ma-
sonic order has declined steadily around Fiji, and
the Levuka lodge often had difficulty achieving the re-
quired quorum of eight persons at their monthly
meetings. The lodge will not be rebuilt, but part of it
will probably be left standing as a monument to the
folly of mankind. The last sacking of Levuka by the
Lovoni folk had been in 1855, and few residents
ever dreamed it could happen again.
including meals, and this would allow you to take
any of the three guided treks (F$20 pp) or two
coastal walks (F$15 pp). Devokula was an in-
formation kiosk (P.O. Box 128, Ovalau; tel./fax
440-353) in Levuka. Otherwise ask Lisa or Julia
at the Whale's Tale Restaurant or Andrea at
Ovalau Watersports for information. With tourism
way down since the Speight coup attempt, De-
vokula has almost died.
Sports and Recreation
Ovalau Watersports (P.O. Box 149, Levuka;
tel. 440-344 or 440-61 1 , fax 440-405), near the
post office in Levuka, is run by Nobi and Andrea
Dehm and Ned Fisher, who worked as dive-
masters at Leleuvia Island Resort for many
years. They offer diving around Levuka at 0900
daily at F$1 30/550 for two/10 tanks including
gear (minimum of two divers). An open-water
certification course is F$460. Snorkeling on the
reef is F$30 pp (minimum of five persons). Nobi
and Ned also rent bicycles at F$5/10/15 an
Copyrighted material
268 THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
hour/half day/full day. Andrea can help you
arrange any land tours you may require.
Ovalau Watersports' main venues are the Na
Loba Loba Reef on North Ovalau with its school-
ing pelagics, and Moturiki Channel with color-
ful soft corals and clouds of reef fish. Eagle rays
and hammerhead sharks are often encountered
in Wakaya Passage, and you may spot pilot
whales and dolphins swimming in the Koro Sea
as you cross to/from Ovalau. The folks on the
live-aboards also get to see these things, but at
considerably higher cost.
At high tide, the river mouth near the Royal
Hotel is an extremely popular swimming hole
for the local kids (and some tourists). The rest of
the day locals cool off by just sitting in the water
fully dressed.
ACCOMMODATIONS
There's a good choice of budget places to stay
around Levuka (and thankfully no luxury resorts).
The Old Capital Inn (P.O. Box 50, Levuka; tel.
440-013) on Beach Street has 15 fan-cooled
rooms at F$13 pp. A separate cottage with cook-
ing facilities is F$44 for up to four persons. A
cool breeze blowing in from the east helps keep
the mosquitoes away. It's run by the same fam-
ily that developed Leleuvia Island.
Mavida Guesthouse (Rosie Patterson, P.O.
Box 4. Levuka; tel. 440-477) on Beach Street,
which has functioned since 1869, is Fiji's oldest
operating guesthouse. This classic English bed
and breakfast owned by Patterson Brothers Ship-
ping occupies a spacious colonial house on the
waterfront near the Levuka Club. The 16 rooms in
three buildings are F$15/30 single/double, or it's
F$9 in the dormitory (F$12 if you want a mosquito
net), a cooked breakfast included. You can order
an excellent dinner here. It's worth asking to see
the room beforehand as all are different, and the
nicest rooms go for F$40 double.
For the full Somerset Maugham flavor, stay at
the 15-room Royal Hotel (P.O. Box 47, Levuka;
tel. 440-024, fax 440-174). Originally built in
1852 and rebuilt in 1913 by Captain David Rob-
bie after a fire in the 1890s. this is Fiji's oldest
regular hotel, run by the Ashley family since
1927. The platform on the roof is a "widow's
watch" where wives would watch for the overdue
return of their husband's ships. In the lounge,
ceiling fans revolve above the rattan sofas and
potted plants, and the fan-cooled rooms upstairs
with private bath and minifridge are pleasant,
with much-needed mosquito nets provided. Each
room is in a different style. It's F$1 9/28/36/44
single/double/triple/quad in the main building.
There are also three a/c rooms with shared cook-
ing facilities in a garden building at F$55 double,
plus one large family cottage capable of ac-
commodating 1 1 persons in five rooms at F$77
for the unit. The most deluxe accommodations
are the two new self-catering cottages facing
Beach Street, which go for F$77 double. The
1 2-bed dormitory with cooking facilities is F$10
pp. Checkout time is 1000. but you can arrange
to stay until 1 500 by paying another 50 percent of
the daily rate (no credit cards accepted). Every-
body loves this place, but don't order dinner as
the food isn't highly rated. The bar, beer gar-
den, snooker tables, dart boards, pool, gym, and
videos (at 2000) are strictly for guests only. The
anachronistic prices and colonial atmosphere
make the Royal about the best value in Fiji.
Around the Island
The Ovalau Holiday Resort (P.O. Box 113, Le-
vuka; tel. 440-329) is opposite a rocky beach at
Vuma, four km north of Levuka (taxi F$4). The
two-room bungalows with kitchen and fridge are a
bit overpriced at F$77/99/121 single/double/triple.
There's also a dorm which costs F$28 pp includ-
ing two meals, but at last report it was perma-
nently occupied by the Chinese staff of a gar-
ment factory. Camping may still be possible at
F$8 pp. Given sufficient advance notice, the re-
sort's restaurant does some fine cooking. Their
Bula Beach Bar in a converted whaler's cottage
adjoins the only swimming pool on Ovalau, and
the snorkeling off their beach is okay. It's a nice
place for an afternoon at the beach, even if you
prefer to stay in Levuka.
During the George Speight crisis in July 2000.
the Rukuruku Holiday Resort, on the northwest
side of Ovalau, 20 km from Levuka, was occu-
pied by about a hundred disgruntled villagers
who claimed the land belonged to them. This
turned out to be false, but by the time the au-
thorities were able to restore order, the entire
place had been gutted and destroyed. The resort
remains closed, and the property has been sub-
Copy righted material
OVALAU ISLAND 269
divided into 22 lots for sale as sites for holiday or
retirement homes. A vanilla plantation and beau-
tiful verdant mountains cradle Rukuruku on the
island side.
FOOD
Few of the guesthouses in Levuka provide cook-
ing facilities, but four or five small restaurants
face Beach Street. These spots are mostly pa-
tronized by foreigners, and prices are higher
than in Suva or Lautoka, but with luck you'll
enjoy some superior meals. In fact, many visitors
seem to spend most of their time hopping from
restaurant to restaurant.
Coffee in the Garden (tel./fax 440-417; daily
0800-1 800), on the waterfront in Patterson Gar-
dens between the Levuka Community Center
and the power plant, is the perfect place for a
breakfast of tea and muffins, or a coffee anytime.
Cafe Levuka (no phone), opposite the Com-
munity Center, has F$7 dinner specials Mon-
day-Saturday 21 00. It's a good place to find out
what's happening around town over coffee and
cakes. Their fruit pancakes are great for break-
fast (F$5), but one reader complained of small
dinner portions.
Kim's Restaurant (tel. 440-382), also known
as Paak Kum Loong Wine & Dine, upstairs in a
building near Court's Furniture Store, is Levuka's
most popular restaurant. Lunch from the glass
warmers near the door is F$2.50-3.50, while
the dinner menu includes Chinese dishes for
under F$8 (meals ordered from the menu are
individually prepared). Also on the menu are f ive
different Fijian dishes for under F$9, and four
vegetarian choices for under F$5. Sundays from
1800 there's a buffet (F$13), which includes
salad and ice cream. Beer is available. If you
can get a table, dine on their breezy front ter-
race with a view of the waterfront.
The Whale's Tale Restaurant (tel. 440-235)
on Beach Street is a favorite for its real home
cooking at medium prices. A cooked breakfast
with coffee will be F$7.50, buttered pasta for
lunch costs F$6.50. and the three-course din-
ner special with a choice from among five main
plates is F$12.50. They're fully licensed so you
can get a beer with your meal, and their spe-
cially percolated coffee (F$2.20) is the best in
town. They also sell bags of kava, Fijian handi-
crafts, and lovely tapa greeting cards.
The Sea Site Restaurant, a bit north of
Whale's Tale, is basic but decent for ice cream.
Emily Cafe, between the Sea Site and the
Church of the Sacred Heart, is a better place
for coffee and cakes.
ENTERTAINMENT
Despite the Members Only sign, you're welcome
to enter the Ovalau Club (tel. 440-057), said to
be the oldest membership club in the South Pa-
cific. You'll meet genuine South Seas charac-
ters here, and the place is brimming with at-
mosphere. The original billiard table is still in
use. Ask the bartender to show you the framed
letter from Count Felix von Luckner, the World
War I German sea wolf. Von Luckner left the
letter and some money at the unoccupied resi-
dence of a trader on Katafaga Island in the Lau
Group, from which he took some provisions. In
the letter, Count von Luckner identifies himself as
Max Pemberton, an English writer on a sport-
ing cruise through the Pacific.
The Levuka Club (tel. 440-272) on Beach
Street is a good place for sunsets, especially
from the picnic tables in their nice backyard be-
side the water. Fewer tourists frequent the Le-
vuka Club than the Ovalau Club, and it's a better
choice if you only want a quick beer.
In 2001 Cinema Levuka opened next to Air
Fiji. Aside from the films, it's about the only place
in Levuka where you can get candy floss (cotton
candy) and popcorn.
INFORMATION AND SERVICES
Information
Tabaki at the Levuka Community Center (tel.
440-356) may have information on the offshore
island resorts and various land tours around
Ovalau. You can borrow up to three books from
the Community Center library for a F$2 fee (plus
a refundable F$10 deposit).
Lisa at the Whale's Tale Restaurant (tel. 440-
235) will be happy to give you her frank opinion of
the offshore resorts — invaluable when planning a
trip. Cafe Levuka maintains a Tourist Information
Copyrighted material
270 THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
Book" containing current information about al-
most every aspect of travel around Ovalau. An-
drea at Ovalau Watersports is also very helpful.
Services
The Westpac Bank and Colonial National Bank
on Beach Street change traveler's checks.
Old Capital Business Services (David Kir-
ton. P.O. Box 149, Levuka; tel. 440-071), corner
of Convent St. and Totoga Lane, offers email
access, plus fax and photocopying services.
Their handmade greeting cards are unique, and
other local handicrafts are for sale.
Cafe Levuka will wash, dry, and fold your
laundry within three hours for F$8.50.
Public toilets are available across the street
from the Colonial National Bank.
Levuka's new sub-divisional hospital (tel.
440-105) is on the north side of town. In 2000
F$3.6 million were spent rebuilding this facility.
TRANSPORTATION
Air Fiji (tel. 440-1 39), across the street from the
Levuka Community Center, has two flights a
day between Bureta Airport and Suva (F$41).
The R. Chand and Sons minibus from Levuka to
the airstrip is F$3.60 pp (the minibus driver has
an office down the alley beside Air Fiji). A taxi to
the airport will run F$19.
Inquire at Patterson Brothers Shipping (tel.
440-125), beside the market on Beach Street,
about the direct ferry from Ovalau to Nabouwalu,
Vanua Levu, via Natovi. The connecting bus de-
parts Levuka Monday-Saturday at about 0500.
At Nabouwalu. there's an onward bus to Labasa,
but bookings must be made in advance (F$50
straight through).
The bus/ferry/bus service between Suva and
Levuka was discussed previously under Trans-
portation in the Suva section. It should take just
under five hours right through, and costing F$25.
The Patterson Brothers combination involves
an express bus from Levuka to Buresala de-
parting daily except Sunday at 0500, a 45-minute
ferry ride from Buresala to Natovi, then the same
bus on to Suva (change at Korovou for Lautoka).
Bicycles are carried free on the ferry. Advance
bookings are required on the Patterson Brothers
ferry/bus service.
The other choice for Suva is the Leleuvia Is-
land Resort boat, which should leave Queen's
Wharf, Levuka, at 0900 on Monday, Wednes-
day, and Friday to Bau Landing, with a minibus to
Suva (arriving at 1 400, F$35 one-way). Due to a
fall in tourism this service was suspended re-
cently, but you can learn the current situation
by asking at Ovalau Watersports or the Old Cap-
ital Inn. From Levuka, the Leleuvia boat is more
conveniently timed and there's a brief visit to
Leleuvia Island, where free stopovers are pos-
sible. If possible, use a different service each
way for a scenic circle trip from Suva.
Both taxis and carriers park across the street
from the Church of the Sacred Heart in Levu-
ka. Due to steep hills on the northwest side of
Ovalau, there isn't a bus right around the island.
Carriers leave Levuka for Taviya (F$1.40) or
Rukuruku (F$2) villages Monday-Saturday at
0730, 1200, and 1700 along a beautiful, hilly
road. During the school holidays only the 1200
trip may operate. Occasional carriers also go to
Bureta (F$1.30), Lovoni (F$1.50), and Viru
(F$1 .50). There's no service on Sunday.
On Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 1200
it's possible to do a round-trip to Rukuruku for
F$4 as the carrier returns immediately to Levuka.
Monday to Saturday you can have a day at the
beach at Rukuruku by taking the 0730 carrier
to Taviya, then walking the remaining kilometer
to Rukuruku (from the top of the hill, turn right
down the sideroad to the beach). Return to Le-
vuka on the 1400 carrier from Taviya (check all
this with the driver).
Tours
Epi's Midland Tour is a guided hike to Lovoni
that departs Levuka Monday-Saturday around
1000 (F$20 pp including lunch). You hike over
and return by truck (or you can just go both ways
by truck if you don't wish to walk). The route is
steep, and rugged footwear is essential. At
Lovoni you may go for a swim in the river or ask
to meet the village chief. Epi is an enthusiastic
guy very knowledgeable about forest plants and
there have been very good reports about his
tour. His reservations book is at the Royal Hotel
reception. This tour is recommended.
Ovalau Tours and Transport (Mike Brook,
P.O. Box 149, Levuka; tel. 440-401 or 303-551,
fax 440-405), beside the Levuka Community
Copyrighted material
OVALAU ISLAND 271
Center, operates day tours to Devokula village.
The lea and talanoa" program allows visitors
to meet local residents in their own homes for tea
and conversation (F$15 pp). For F$7 pp you
can arrange an historical town walking tour with
Henry Sahai, who has lived here since 1919.
He's still very fit and quite a character (if there's
only one of you. no problem). Internet access
is available at F$0.33 a minute (F$2 minimum).
If they're closed, ask Andrea at Ovalau Water-
sports around the corner if she has a key.
If you wish to organize your own tour, it costs
F$70 for the vehicle to hire a small carrier or
taxi around the island.
ISLANDS OFF OVALAU
Yanuca Lailai Island
It was on tiny Yanuca Lailai Island, just off the
south end of Ovalau, that the first 463 inden-
tured Indian laborers to arrive in Fiji landed from
the ship Leonidas on May 1 4, 1 879. To avoid
the introduction of cholera or smallpox into Fiji,
the immigrants spent two months in quarantine
on Yanuca Lailai. Later Nukulau Island off Suva
became Fiji's main quarantine station.
In past it was possible to stay on Yanuca Lailai
at Lost Island Resort (P.O. Box 131 , Levuka).
Bure accommodations and camping were avail-
able with three meals a day. In early 2001 this re-
sort closed after the guy in charge immigrated to
the United States, but current information should
be available from Daniel Levi, who you can con-
tact through the Levuka Community Center.
Moturiki Island
Small outboards to Moturiki Island depart Naque-
ledamu Landing most afternoons. The finest
beaches are on the east side of Moturiki. Camp-
ing is officially discouraged, but possible.
Caqalai Island
Caqalai ("THANG-ga-lai") is owned by the
Methodist Church of Fiji, which operates a small
backpackers' resort (tel. 430-366) on this palm-
fringed isle. The 12 dusty bure with broken beds
are F$30 pp (triple occupancy), or camp for F$24
pp, three meals included. A communal fridge is
provided. You must take your own alcohol as
none is sold on the island. It's primitive but ade-
quate, and the island and people are great.
Dress up for Sunday service in the village church
and enjoy the lovo that afternoon. There's good
snorkeling all around the island and you can
wade to Snake Island, where banded sea snakes
congregate. Information is available at Cafe Le-
vuka and the Royal Hotel (boat from Levuka
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings at
F$15 pp each way). The Royal Hotel also
arranges daytrips to Caqalai Monday-Saturday
at 1000 (F$30 pp, minimum of two). Those al-
ready staying on Caqalai can make shopping
trips to Levuka at a reduced rate.
Reader Philip R. Marshall of Playa del Rey,
California, sent us this:
Caqalai is not for every tourist. It t very small
taking about 10 minutes to walk around,
and has simple un/fygienic facilities. The one
outhouse-style toilet must be flushed with
buckets of seawater. Bathing is accomplished
in a small shed with brackish water hand-
pumped into buckets. Electricity is generated
only during dinner hours, if the generator
works (it did briefly on only one of my three
nights there). On the positive side, the peo-
ple are wonderfully friendly hosts, with music
and kava in the evenings, but there is little to
do. The snorkeling is fairly good in the vicin-
ity (bring your own gear). I think Caqalai
might appeal to people who have not spent
much time on islands, who would enjoy a
rough Gilligan 's Island experience.
Leleuvia Island
Leleuvia is a lovely isolated 1 7-hectare reef is-
land with nothing but coconut trees, fine sandy
beaches, and a ramshackle assortment of tourist
huts scattered around. The small backpacker
resort (P.O. Box 15212, Suva; tel. 301 -584, fax
440-633) here is run by Emosi Yee Show of Le-
vuka's Old Capitol Inn and Epenisa Cakobau,
a jovial member of the indigenous Fijian nobility
from Bau Island. Epenisa and his brother Tanoa
have worked hard to upgrade the facilities that
Emosi first created in the 1980s.
Accommodations including three meals run
F$28 pp in the dorm, F$32 pp in a thatched hut,
F$36 pp in a wooden bungalow, or F$22 pp if
Copyrighted material
272 THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
you camp. Water is in short supply on Leleuvia,
and bathing is with a bucket of brackish water.
Lunch is served a la carte, and the small shop
sells candy, cake, and drinks. The owners send
as many people as they can to Leleuvia, and it
can get crowaea at times (pick uaqaiai instead it
you'd rather do your own thing).
Leleuvia is popular among backpackers who
like to drink beer and party a lot (live Fijian music
in the evening), so don't come expecting a rest.
Actually, it sort of depends on who is on the is-
land at the time. Peace returns around 2230
wnen tne generator switcnes on and everyone
falls asleep. Most travelers love it and some end
up staying a month.
Plenty of activities are laid on, especially reef
trips by boat and scuba diving, and on Sunday
they'll even take you to church! For a nominal
amount they'll drop you off on one-tree "Honey-
moon Island." Leleuvia's diving concession Nau-
tilus Dive offers scuba diving at F$75/110 for
one/two tanks. The resident instructors — a laid
back American named Steve and a pair of Ger-
mans Martin and Thomas — have taught diving to
quite a few guests. This isn't surprising because
at F$390, Nautilus" PADI open-water certification
course is one of the least expensive in Fiji (this
price only applies if several people are taking
lessons at the same time). Many backpackers
learn to dive at Leleuvia before going to Taveu-
ni where such courses are F$200 more expen-
sive. The snorkeling here is also excellent though
tne sea is sometimes coio.
Getting there from Levuka is easy as transfers
are available anytime at F$25 pp round-trip (two-
person minimum). Book through Ovalau Water-
sports or the Old Capital Inn. From Suva, the
bus should leave daily at 1200, connecting with
a speedboat via Bau Landing (F$30/45 one-
way/round-trip). In Suva, contact Sunset Apart-
ment Motel (tel. 301-799) on Gordon Street, or
Colonial Lodge (tel. 300-655), 19 Anand St.
Check well ahead as the Suva shuttles only op-
erate when enough guests have booked. If there
aren't enough people to run a bus from Suva,
you'll be told to find your own way to Bau Land-
ing, where the resort boat will pick you up at
1300. Call the island direct at tel. 301-584 to
arrange this (ask if they'll refund the taxi fare
between Nausori and Bau Landing). To go Le-
vuka-Leleuvia-Suva or vice versa is F$35.
Naigani
Naigani, 11 km off Viti Levu, is a lush tropical
island near Ovalau at the west end of the Lo-
maiviti Group. It's just the right size for exploring
on foot, with pristine beaches and only one Fijian
villaae in the southwest corner
Naigani Island Resort (P.O. Box 12539,
Suva; tel. 300-925 or 312-069, fax 300-539),
also known as Mystery Island Resort, offers 12
comfortable two-bedroom fan-cooled villas at
F$270 for up to five people. Six of the villas have
double rooms attached which go for F$1 70 dou-
ble by themselves. The meal plan is F$55 pp
for three meals (no cooking facilities). There's a
swimming pool with water slide. Some nonmo-
torized water sports are free, but fishing trips
are charged extra. A nine-hole par-27 golf course
is available. Tropical Dive offers scuba diving
from Naigani to sites like Nursery and Swim
Through at F$125/170 for one/two tanks, plus
F$45 for gear. The daily minibus/launch con-
nection from Suva at 1030 is F$60 roundtrip.
From Levuka, call them up and arrange to be
collected by the speedboat at Taviya village on
the northwest side of Ovalau (accessible by car-
rier) at F$33 pp round-trip.
Copyrighted material
OTHER ISLANDS OF THE LOMAIVITI GROUP 273
OTHER ISLANDS OF THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
Makogai
Makogai shares a figure-eight-shaped barrier
reef with neighboring Wakaya. The anchorage is
in Dalice Bay on the northwest side of the is-
land. From 191 1 to 1969 this was a leper colony
staffed by Catholic nuns and many of the old
hospital buildings still stand. Some 4,500 pa-
tients sheltered here including many from various
otner racmc island groups, in tne patients ceme-
tery on Makogai is the grave of Mother Marie
Agnes, the "kindly tyrant" who ran the facility for
34 years. Both the British and French govern-
ments honored her with their highest decora-
tions, and upon retiring at the age of 80 she
commented tnat me next medal win oe given
in heaven." Also buried here is Maria Filomena,
a Fijian sister who working at the colony from
its inception. After contracting leprosy in 1925
she joined her patients and continued serving
them for another 30 years. Today Makogai is
owned by the Department of Agriculture, which
runs an experimental sheep farm here, with
some 2,000 animals. A new breed intended as a
source of mutton and bearing little wool was ob-
tained by crossing British and Caribbean sheep.
Wakaya
A high cliff on the west coast of Wakaya is known
as Chieftain's Leap, for a young chief who threw
himself over the edge to avoid capture by his
foes. In those days a hill fort sat at Wakaya's
highest point so local warriors could scan the
horizon for unfriendly cannibals. Chief Cakobau
sold Wakaya to Europeans in 1 840. and it has
since had many owners. In 1862 David Whippy
set up Fiji's first sugar mill on Wakaya.
The German raider Count Felix von Luckner
was captured on Wakaya during World War I.
His ship, the Seeadler, had foundered on a reef
at Maupihaa in the Society Islands on 2 August
1917. The 105 survivors (prisoners included)
camped on Maupihaa, while on 23 August von
Luckner and five men set out in an open boat to
capture a schooner and continue the war. On
21 September 1917 they found a suitable ship at
Wakaya. Their plan was to go aboard pretending
to be passengers and capture it, but a British
officer and four Indian soldiers happened upon
the scene. Not wishing to go against the rules of
chivalry and fight in civilian clothes, the count
gave himself up and was interned at Auckland as
a prisoner of war. He later wrote a book, The
Sea Devil, about his experiences.
In 1973 Canadian industrialist David Harri-
son Gilmour bought the island for US$3 million,
and in 1990 he and wife Jill opened The
Wakaya Club (P.O. Box 15424. Suva; tel. 448-
128. fax 448-406), with nine spacious cottages
starting at F$3,320 double plus tax, all-inclu-
sive (five-night minimum stay). Children under
16 are not accommodated. The snorkeling here
is superb, and there's scuba diving, a nine-hole
golf course, a swimming pool, and an airstrip
for charter flights (F$1 ,870 roundtrip per cou-
ple from Nadi). As you might expect at these
prices (Fiji's highest!), it's all very tasteful and el-
egant—just ask Pierce Brosnan, Carol Burnett,
Celine Dion, Bill Gates, Michelle Pfeiffer, or Burt
Reynolds. It's a sort of country club for the rich
and famous rather than a trendy social scene.
Profits from the resort are used to fund public
education in Fiji. A third of Wakaya has been
subdivided into 1 00 parcels, which are avail-
able as homesites; red deer imported from New
Caledonia run wild across the rest.
Batiki
Batiki has a large interior lagoon of brackish
water flanked by mudflats. A broad barrier reef
surrounds Batiki. Four Fijian villages are on Bati-
ki and you can walk around the island in four
hours. Waisea Veremaibau of Yavu village on
the north side of the island has accommodated
guests in past. Fine baskets are made on Batiki.
Due to hazardous reefs, there's no safe an-
chorage for ships.
Nairai
Seven Fijian villages are found on this 336-
meter-high island between Koro and Gau. The
inhabitants are known for their woven handi-
crafts. Hazardous reefs stretch out in three di-
rections, and in 1808 the brigantine Eliza was
wrecked here. Among the survivors was Charles
Copyrighted material
274 THE LOMAIVITI GROUP
Savage, who served as a mercenary for the
chiefs of Bau for five years until falling into the
clutches of Vanua Levu cannibals.
Koro
Koro is an eight-by-16-km island shaped like a
shark's tooth. A ridge traverses the island from
northeast to southwest, reaching 561 meters
near the center. High jungle-clad hillsides drop
sharply to the coast. The top beach is along the
south coast between Mundu and the lighthouse
at Muanivanua Point. Among Koro's 14 large
Fijian villages is Nasau, the government center
with post office, hospital, and schools.
The road to Vatulele village on the north coast
climbs from Nasau to the high plateau at the
center of the island. The coconut trees and man-
goes of the coast are replaced by great tree
ferns and thick rainforest.
At Nacamaki village, in the northeast comer of
Koro, turtle calling is still practiced. The caller
stands on Tuinaikasi, a high cliff about a kilo-
meter west of the village, and repeats the pre-
scribed words to bring the animals to the sur-
face. The ritual does work, although the turtles
are becoming scarce and only one or two may
appear. If anyone present points a finger or cam-
era at a turtle, they quickly submerge. Actually,
it's not possible to photograph the turtles, as
magic is involved — the photos wouldn't show
any turtles. Anyway, you're so high above the
water you'd need the most powerful telephoto
lens just to pick them out. (One reader wrote in to
report that no turtles have appeared since 1987,
due to the killing of a shark by a local villager.)
The track south between Nacamaki and Tua
Tua runs along a golden palm-fringed beach.
There's a cooperative store at Nagaidamu
where you can buy yaqona and supplies. Koro
kava is Fiji's finest. A 30-minute hike up a steep
trail from the coop brings you to a waterfall and
idyllic swimming hole. Keep left if you're on your
own (taking a guide would be preferable).
Koro has an unusual inclined airstrip on the
east side of the island near Namacu village. You
land uphill, take off downhill. Air Fiji can bring
you here from Suva once a week (FS80). and
several carriers meet the flight.
The weekly Consort Shipping Line ferry
Spirit of Free Enterprise plying between Suva
and Savusavu/Taveuni ties up to the wharf near
KORO
Tuinaikati
Nacamaki
Tua Tua
Muanivan
Point
I
Muanivanua Point. The "Sofe" calls northbound
in the middle of the night on Wednesdays and
Sundays; the southbound trips stop at Koro late
Monday and Thursday nights. The fare to/from
Suva is F$32/60 deck/cabin one-way.
There are no hotels on Koro, so you'll have to
stay with locals or ask permission to camp. On
both Koro and Gau your best bet is to wait till you
meet someone from there, then ask them to
write you a letter of introduction to their relatives
back home on the island. It's always better to
know someone before you arrive. Make it clear
you're willing to pay your own way, then don't ne-
glect to do so.
Gau
Gau is the fifth-largest island in Fiji, with 16 vil-
lages and 1 3 settlements. There's a barrier reef
on the west coast, but only a fringing reef on
the east. A hot-spring swimming pool is close
to the P.W.D. depot at Waikama. From Waika-
ma, hike along the beach and over the hills to
OTHER ISLANDS OF THE LOMAIVITI GROUP 275
Somosomo village. If you lose the way, look
for the creek at the head of the bay and work
your way up it until you encounter the trail.
There's a bathing pool in Somosomo with emer-
ald green water.
A road runs from Somosomo to Sawaieke
village, where the Takalaigau, high chief of Gau,
resides. The remnants of one of the only sur-
viving pagan temples (bure kalou) in Fiji is beside
the road at the junction in Sawaieke. The high
stone mound is still impressive.
It's possible to climb Mt. Delaico (760 me-
ters), highest on the island, from Sawaieke in
three or four hours. The first hour is the hard-
est. From the summit is a sweeping view.
MacGillivray's Fiji petrel, a rare seabird of the
albatross family, lays its eggs underground on
GAU
Vione
0 5 km Bc»ch
Gau's jungle-clad peaks. Only two specimens
have ever been taken: one by the survey ship
Herald in 1 855, and a second by local writer
Dick Watling in 1984.
The co-op and government station (hospital,
post office, etc.) are at Qarani at the north end of
Gau. Two ships a week arrive here from Suva on
an irregular schedule, but there is no wharf so
they anchor offshore. The wharf at Waikama is
used only for government boats.
There are a number of waterfalls on the east
coast, the most impressive are behind Lekanai
and up Waiboteigau Creek, both an hour's walk
off the main road. The "weather stone" is on the
beach, a five-minute walk south of Yadua vil-
lage. Bad weather is certain if you step on it or hit
it with another stone.
No guesthouses are on Gau, but the driver
of the carrier serving the airstrip may be willing to
arrange village accommodations. Have your se-
vusevu ready and also contribute F$20 pp a
day, at least. The airstrip is on Katudrau Beach at
the south end of Gau. The three weekly flights
to/from Suva on Air Fiji are F$56 each way.
A handmade resort called the Nukuyaweni
Outpost (Kevin Wunrow, Bay of Angels, Pri-
vate Mail Bag, Suva; tel. 440-880) is being de-
veloped on a point a couple of kilometers south-
west of Somosomo. Conceived as a sort of
artists' hideaway, the Outpost is scheduled to
open in mid-2002. The four cottages, each with
an outdoor bathing grotto, will run F$1 1 ,000 a
week all inclusive. Consult Nukuyaweni's website
for details. Aside from the swimming pool, guests
will be able to enjoy the great snorkeling off their
500-meter beach. There's extraordinary diving in
Nigali Passage, just 15 minutes away by boat
(large schools of big fish and manta rays).
276 VANUA LEVU
VANUA LEVU
Though only half as big as Viti Levu, 5.556-
square-km Vanua Levu ("Great Land") has much
to offer. The transport is good, the scenery var-
ied, the people warm and hospitable, and far
fewer visitors reach this part of Fiji than heavily
promoted Nadi, Sigatoka, and Suva. Fijian vil-
lages are numerous all the way around the is-
land — here you'll be able to experience real Fijian
life, so it's well worth making the effort to visit
Fiji's second-largest island.
The drier northwest side of Vanua Levu fea-
tures sugarcane fields and pine forests, while
on the damper southeast side copra plantations
predominate, with a little cocoa around Natewa
Bay (the biggest bay in the South Pacific). To-
ward the southeast the scenery is more a bu-
colic beauty of coconut groves dipping down to-
ward the sea. Majestic bays cut into the island's
south side, and one of the world's longest barri-
er reefs flanks the north coast. There are some
superb locations here just waiting to be discov-
ered, both above and below the waterline.
Indo-Fijians live in the large market town of
Labasa and the surrounding cane-growing area;
most of the rest of Vanua Levu is Fijian. To-
gether Vanua Levu, Taveuni, and adjacent is-
lands form Fiji's Northern Division (often called
simply "the north"), which is subdivided into three
provinces: the west end of Vanua Levu is Bua
Province; most of the north side of Vanua Levu is
Macuata Province; and the southeast side of
Vanua Levu and Taveuni make up Cakaudrove
Province. You won't regret touring this area.
Nabouwalu
The ferry from Viti Levu ties up to the wharf at this
friendly little government station (the headquarters
of Bua Province), near the southern tip of Vanua
Levu. The view from the wharf is picturesque,
with Seseleka (421 meters) and, in good weath-
er, Yadua Island visible to the northwest.
Nabouwalu has a high-technology 24-hour elec-
tricity supply system based on windmills and
solar panels installed in early 1 998. Most of the
600 residents of this area are indigenous Fijians.
Shlomo Trading (no phone) runs a guest-
house behind their restaurant next to the store at
the end of the wharf. The three rooms with
shared facilities are F$15 pp, breakfast included.
The Shlomo Restaurant is there mostly for the
naterial
VANUA LEVU 277
278 VANUALEVU
THE CRESTED IGUANA
In 1979 a new species of lizard, the crested igua-
na (Brachylophus vitiensis), was discovered on
uninhabited Yaduataba Island, a tiny 70-hectare
dot in Bligh Water off the west end of Vanua
Levu. These iguanas are similar to those of the
Galapagos, and they may have arrived thou-
sands of years ago on floating rafts of vegetation.
The same species was later found on some is-
lands in the Yasawa and Mamanuca groups.
Both sexes are shiny emerald green with white
stripes and the animals turn black when alarmed.
The females have longer tails, growing up to 90
cm long. Both sexes have a yellow snout. They're
not to be confused with the more common band-
ed iguana found elsewhere in Fiji, the male of
which is also green with white stnpes while the fe-
male is totally green.
Yaduataba is separated from neighboring
Yadua Island by onfy 200 meters of shallow water
and upon discovery the iguanas were threatened
bv a larae colonv of feral qoats that were con-
suming their habitat. Fortunately, the National
Trust for Fiji took over management of the is-
land, created an iguana sanctuary with an hon-
orary warden from the Fijian village on Yadua,
and removed the goats.
About 1 ,000 lizards are present, basking in
the sun in the canopy duhng the day and coming
down to the lower branches at night. It's possible
to visit Yaduataba by taking the ferry to
Nabouwalu. then hiring a local boat to Yadua
where guides can be arranged. Information
should be available from the National Trust for Fiji
office in Suva.
benefit of truck drivers waiting for the ferry, and
it's usually closed at night. A curry lunch runs
F$3.50. Local food is sold at the small market op-
posite this restaurant, and there's sometimes
an open barbecue outside. Four small stores
nearby sell groceries.
The lovely Government Resthouse, up on
the hillside above Nabouwalu, has two rooms
with shared cooking facilities at F$10 pp. Try to
make advance reservations with the district offi-
cer, Bua, in Nabouwalu (tel. 836-027). Upon ar-
rival, you could inquire at the Administrative Of-
fices next to the post office, up on the hill above
the wharf. Another possibility is the YWCA in
the village, which sometimes has a room for rent
at F$15 pp. In a pinch, they'll probably allow you
to camp. Otherwise Mr. Gaya Prasad runs a
very basic dharamshala (guesthouse) with cook-
ing facilities just behind the store with the petrol
pumps near the wharf. Present him with a mon-
etary sevusevu upon departure.
The large Patterson Brothers car ferry sails
from Natovi on Viti Levu to Nabouwalu Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday around 0700 (four hours,
F$35). The same boat departs Nabouwalu for
Natovi Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 1 130.
At Natovi there are immediate terry connections
to/from Ovalau Island and buses to Suva. On
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 1030 there's
a direct Patterson Brothers ferry from Nabouwalu
to Ellington Wharf near Rakiraki (F$33), where
there are connections to Nananu-i-Ra Island and
Lautoka. Patterson Brothers may also have spe-
cial trips to Natovi and Ellington Wharf on Mon-
day, Wednesday, and Friday if there's enough de-
mand from trucks, so ask. Getting a car onto the
ferry without reservations can be difficult as over
a dozen logging trucks are often lined up waiting
to go. Patterson Brothers runs an express bus be-
tween Nabouwalu and Labasa for ferry passen-
gers only (must be booked in conjunction with a
ferry ticket). This bus takes only four hours to
cover the 1 37 km to Labasa compared to the six
hours required by the four regular buses, which
make numerous detours and stops.
East of Nabouwalu
There's a 141 -km road along the south coast of
Vanua Levu from Nabouwalu to Savusavu, but
eastbound buses only reach as far as Daria, west-
bound buses as far as Mount Kasi Gold Mine.
The gap is covered by occasional carrier trucks. At
Cogea, five km north of Daria, are some small
hot springs the local people use for bathing.
The Mount Kasi Gold Mine near Dawara, in
the hills above the west end of Savusavu Bay, 70
km from Savusavu, produced 60,000 ounces of
gold between 1932 and 1946. Beginning in 1979
several companies did exploratory work in the
area in hope of reviving the mine, and in 1996 it
was recommissioned by Pacific Island Gold,
which began extracting about 40,000 ounces a
year from the mine. In June 1998 the mine was
forced to close and the 1 70 workers were laid off
due to low gold prices on the world market. Dur-
ing the 1970s, bauxite was mined in this area.
Copyrighted material
VANUA LEVU 279
Dillon's fight with
the Fijians
The Road to Labasa
The twisting, tiring north coast bus ride from
Nabouwalu to Labasa takes you past Fijian vil-
lages, rice paddies, and cane fields. The early
sandalwood traders put in at Bua Bay. At Bua
village on Bua Bay is a large suspension bridge.
Dry open countryside stretches west of Bua to
Seseleka (421 meters).
About 13 km west of Lekutu at Galoa Bay, on
the north side of the narrow neck of land that
joins the Naivaka Peninsula to the main island, is
Dillon's Rock. In September 1813 a party of
Europeans took refuge here after being am-
bushed during a raid on a nearby village. After
witnessing Swedish mercenary Charles Savage
being killed and eaten by enraged Fijian war-
riors after he descended to negotiate a truce,
Peter Dillon of the Hunter and two others man-
aged to escape to their boat by holding muskets
to the head of an important chief and walking
between the assembled cannibals. (In 1826 Dil-
lon earned his place in Pacific history by discov-
ering relics from the La Perouse expedition on
Vanikolo Island in the Solomons, finally solving
the mystery of the disappearance in 1 788 of that
famous French contemporary of Captain Cook.)
About five km north of Lekutu Secondary
School, one km off the main road (bus drivers
know the place), is Fiji's most accessible yet
least known waterfall, the Naselesele Falls. This
is a perfect place to picnic between bus rides,
with a nice grassy area where you could camp.
The falls are most impressive during the rainy
season, but the greater flow means muddy water,
so swimming is better in the dry season. There's
a large basalt pool below the falls, and since no-
body lives in the immediate vicinity, you'll proba-
bly have the place to yourself. Much of this part of
the island has been reforested with pine.
Farther east the road passes a major rice-
growing area and runs along the Dreketi River,
Vanua Levu's largest. A rice mill at Dreketi and cit-
rus project at Batiri are features of this area. The
pavement begins at Dreketi but older sections
beyond the junction with the road from Savusavu
are in bad shape. In the Seaqaqa settlement area
between Batiri and Labasa, about 60 square km
of native land were cleared and planted with sug-
arcane and pine during the 1 970s.
280 VANUALEVU
LABASA
Labasa is a busy Indian market town that ser-
vices Vanua Levu's major cane-growing area. If s
Fiji's fourth-largest town, with 25.000 inhabi-
tants, four banks, and the Northern Division and
Macuata Province headquarters. Vanua Levu's
only sugar mill is here. Labasa was built on a
delta where the shallow Labasa and Oawa rivers
enter the sea; maritime transport is limited to
small boats. Large ships must anchor off Malau,
1 1 km north, where Labasa's sugar harvest is
loaded. Labasa's lack of an adequate port has
hindered development.
Other than providing a good base from which
to explore the surrounding countryside and a
good choice of places to spend the night,
Labasa has little to interest the average tourist.
That's its main attraction: since few visitors
come, there's adventure in the air, good food in
the restaurants, and fun places to drink for
males (a bit rowdy for females). It's not beauti-
ful but it is real, and the bus ride that brings
you here is great.
Gabriel Teoman of Erl, Austria, sent us this:
After reading your remarks, I headed straight
for Labasa upon arrival in Fiji and ended
up spending a month tlfere, moving back and
forth between Sikhs in town, Induin sugarcane
farmers in the surroundings, and Fijian vil-
lagers in the interior. It was there where I
got introduced into both Indo-Fijian and Fi-
jian culture, where I experienced a genuinely
Fijian yaqona ceremony and a meke, got
treated to both a Sikh and a Hindu wedding
nuide lots of friends, and saw people living
up to the image of the "friendly north. " Even
though almost all of Fiji was superb, those
weeks remain special
LABASA
RIVERVIE*
PRIVATE HOTEL
government
wharf
POLICE STATION
\
GRANO
EASTERN
SUBRAIl PARK HOTEL I
SOCCER FIELD ^ BEACHCOMBER
\ t AVENUE ■ CRUISES
k rS> • HOTEL
LABASA
COLLEGE
\ T* *R> Sugar
PROVINCIAL Hill
Office
SUN AIR
To Airport ant
Savusavu
»P»
DIAMOND
'FARMERS CLUB
PATTERSON
BROTHERS
BUS STATION
'AND MARKET
• POST OFFICE
TAKIA \\_ ORIENTAL
. urtnftK H0TU £V RESTAURANT LABASA
' „ 0 ""'L ^tf£Pv5i_ SWIMMING «
• HE0STROM ,1*,^ CIVIC CFNTFR
AIR FIJI !>30^ CIVIC CcNTtH
LABASA
A _GUi8T HOUSE
WESTPAC
ELITE BANK
CINEMA " f'm
SANGAM
TEMPLE ■
SIKH TEMPLE
.ARASA
SRI RAM
Nacula
— i
ToWasavulu
POOL
//
• HOSPITAL
!
LABASA 281
If your time is very limited but you want to see a
lot, catch a morning flight from Suva or Nadi to
Labasa, then take an afternoon bus on to Savu-
savu, the nicest part of the trip. Otherwise stay in
Savusavu and see Labasa on a long day-trip.
SIGHTS
Labasa has an attractive riverside setting with
one long main street lined with shops and restau-
rants. The park along the riverside near the
Labasa Club is quite pleasant.
The Labasa Sugar Mill, beside the Oawa River
two km east of town, opened in 1 894. At the height
of the crushing season from May to December
there's usually a long line of trucks, tractors, and
trains waiting to unload cane at the mill — a most
picturesque sight. From the road here you get a
view of Three Sisters Hill to the right.
Anyone with an interest in archaeology
should take the two-km minibus ride to
Wasavula on the southern outskirts of Labasa.
Parallel stone platforms bearing one large
monolith and several smaller ones are found
among the coconut trees to the east of the road.
This site (Fiji's first "national monument") is not
well known, so just take the bus to Wasavula,
get off, and ask. A small gift (F$2) should be
given to anyone who shows you around. The Fi-
jian villager who does so will assure you that the
monoliths are growing in size!
Copyrighted material
282 VANUALEVU
Around Labasa
The Snake Temple (Naag Mandir) at Nagigi,
12 km northeast of Labasa, contains a large
rock shaped like a cobra that— as at Wasavula —
Hindu devotees swear is growing. Frequent
buses pass Naag Mandir.
On the way back to Labasa from Nagigi ask to
be dropped at Bulileka Road, just before the sugar
mill. Here you can easily pick up a yellow and
blue bus to the hanging bridge, a suspension
footbridge at Bulileka, six km east of Labasa. Get
off the Bulileka bus at Boca Urata where it turns
around. The hanging bridge is 150 meters down
trie road from that place (ask). Cross the bridge
and continue through the fields a few hundred
meters to the paved road where you can catch an-
other bus back to Labasa. The main reason for
coming is to see this picturesque valley, so you
may wish to walk part of the way back.
The Waiqele hot springs are near a Hindi
temple called Shiu Mandir about four km beyond
Labasa airport, 14 km southwest of town (green
and yellow Waiqele bus). Again, the only reason
to come is to see a bit of the countryside.
You can get a view of much of Vanua Levu
from the telecommunications tower atop De-
laikoro (941 meters). 25 km south of Labasa,
farther down the same road past the airport.
Only a 4 WD vehicle can make it to the top.
Farther afield is the Floating Island at Ku-
rukuru, between Nakelikoso and Nubu. 44 km
northeast of Labasa (accessible on the Dogotu-
ki, Kurukuru, and Lagalaga buses).
At Udu Point, Vanua Levu's northeastern-
most tip, a Meridian Wall was built just west of
Vunikodi village in 1999 to mark the spot where
the 180-degree meridian and international date-
line cut across the island. Both sunset and sun-
rise can be observed from the wall. Don and
Seta Chute accommodate visitors to the area.
If you're a surfer, ask about hiring a boat out to
the Great Sea Reef north of Kia Island, 40 km
northwest of Labasa.
Sports and Recreation
The Municipal Swimming Pool (tel. 816-387 or
81 1-066), just before the hospital, is the place to
cool off. Admission is FS1.10. A snack bar ad-
joins the pool, and the Friendly North Inn's nice
open bar is only a short walk away. Call before
going, as the pool was recently closed.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Under US$25
The 10-room Riverview Private Hotel (P.O. Box
129, Labasa; tel. 81 1 -367) is in a quiet two-story
concrete building on Namara Street beyond the
police station. The four fan-cooled rooms with
shared bath are FS25/30 single/double, while an-
other four with private bath are FS30/40. There are
also two deluxe a/c rooms with TV, fridge, and
hot plate at FS40/50/55 single/double/triple. The
best deal is the breezy five-bed dormitory with a
terrace overlooking the river at F$15 pp (one of
the nicest dorms in Fiji). Communal cooking fa-
cilities are available. There's a very pleasant river-
side bar here. The friendly manager Pardip Singh
will do his best to make you feel at home.
The Farmers Club (tel. 81 1-633) on the main
street has two rooms at F$10/14 single/double.
You must arrive during regular business hours
(Mon.-Fri. 0800-1600) to get one, and the street
doors are firmly locked 2200-0800, so you won't
be able to get in or out during those hours.
The Labasa Guest House (P.O. Box 259,
Labasa; tel. 812-155), on Nanuku Street, has
eight rooms at F$17/22 single/double. Some
rooms have a toilet and shower, while others
don't, but the price of all is the same (the two
back rooms are the best). Ask to be given a fan.
You can put your own padlock on your door.
Communal cooking facilities are provided but
the Hindu hosts don't allow guests to cook beef
on the premises, and previous visitors seem to
have walked off with all of the cutlery. There's a
laundry room in which to do hand washing. Pros-
titutes may solicit your business here.
The basic Rara Avenue Hotel (tel. 814-232)
on Rara Avenue has seven overpriced rooms
at FS20/30 single/double or F$40 with four beds.
Only a couple of rooms have private bath and the
whole place is a dive.
The high-rise Takia Hotel (P.O. Box 7, Labasa;
tel. 811-655, fax 813-527), at 10 Nasekula Rd.
next to the post office, has seven fan-cooled rooms
at FS35/45 single/double, 26 a/c rooms at FS55/65,
and one family suite at F$70780, all with private
bath. The fan rooms are along the corridor be-
tween the disco and the bar, and will only appeal
to party animals on Friday and Saturday nights
(free admission to the disco for hotel guests).
Copyrighted material
LABASA 283
A better medium-priced place is the Friendly
North Inn (P.O. Box 1324, Labasa; tel. 811-
555, fax 816-429) on Siberia Road opposite the
hospital, about a kilometer from the bus station
(F$2 by taxi). The 10 a/c rooms with TV and
fridge are FS45/50 single/double, plus F$10 extra
for private cooking facilities (you may be granted
free access to a communal kitchen if you ask).
Opened in 1 996, it's just a short walk from the
municipal swimming pool, and the Inn's large
open-air bar is a very pleasant place for a beer.
USS25-50
The splendid Grand Eastern Hotel (P.O. Box
641 , Labasa; tel. 81 1 -022, fax 81 4-01 1 ) on Gib-
son Street overlooking the river, just a few min-
utes' walk from the bus station, reopened in late
1 997 after a complete renovation and is now
one of Fiji's top hotels. The 10 standard rooms
with terraces in the wing facing the river are
FS70/95 single/double, while the larger deluxe
rooms facing the swimming pool are F$95/120.
There are also four suites upstairs in the main
two-story building, each capable of accommo-
dating a family of up to five at F$120 double
plus F$25 per additional person (children under
12 free). All rooms have a/c, fridge, and private
bath. The Grand Eastern's atmospheric dining
room and bar retain much of the colonial flavor of
the original hotel despite modernization.
Offshore Resort
The luxury-category Nukubati Island Resort
(P.O. Box 1928, Labasa; tel. 813-901 , fax 813-
914) sits on tiny Nukubati Island, one km off the
VIDI VIDI
Vidi vtdi is a game similar to billiards except that the
ball is propelled by a flick of the finger rather than
the tap of a cue. Two or four players position them-
selves around a rectangular "cram board" with
holes in the four comers. The eight or nine brown
balls are placed in the center of the board and
the players try to knock them into the holes using
a striker ball. The red "king ball" must go in last and
if a player knocks it in prematurely all the balls he
had previously sunk must come out and be
knocked in again. Originally played in India, vidi vkJi
was brought to Fiji by Indian immigrants.
north shore of Vanua Levu, 40 km west of
Labasa. The seven oversized fan-cooled bun-
galows are F$1, 685-1 ,920 double including
meals (emphasis on seafood), activities, and re-
turn seaplane transfers from Nadi, with a seven-
night minimum stay. Children are not allowed,
and alcoholic beverages, sportfishing, golf, and
scuba diving (certified divers only) are extra.
This is the closest resort to the Great Sea Reef,
fifth longest barrier reef in the world. No swim-
ming pool is provided but the beach consists of
white coral sand.
FOOD AND ENTERTAINMENT
Food
Joe's Restaurant (tel. 811-766; Mon.-Sat.
0730-2130), upstairs in a building on Nasekula
Road, has an inexpensive fast-food area, and a
"wine and dine" section where you can order
beer. Both are very popular, and the Chinese
food served here puts Labasa's ubiquitous chow
mein houses to shame. Most meals are F$3-5
(prawns F$8).
Slightly more upscale is the Oriental Restau-
rant & Bar (Mon.-Sat. 1000-1500, 1830-2200,
Sun. 1830-2200) next to the bus station.
Simple Fijian, Chinese, and Indian meals are
available for F$3 at many places along Naseku-
la Road, including the Wun Wah Cafe (tel. 81 1 -
653), across from the post office, and Bhindi's
Refreshment Bar (tel. 811-820) near Caines
Photofast on Nasekula Road. Breakfast is hard
to order in Labasa, although several places along
the main street will serve buttered scones and
coffee.
Entertainment
Elite Cinema (tel. 811-260) has films in Eng-
lish and Hindi and there's an evening show at
2000, while the Diamond Cinema (tel. 81 1-471 )
is closed at night.
This is a predominantly Indo-Fijian town so
most of the nightlife is male oriented. The
Labasa Club (tel. 811-304) and the Farmers
Club (tel. 81 1-633) both serve cheap beer in a
congenial atmosphere. Couples will feel more
comfortable at the Labasa Club than at the Farm-
ers, and there's a nice terrace out back facing the
river and two large snooker tables. The bar up-
Copyrighted material
284 VANUALEVU
stairs at the Farmers Club is a bit more sedate
(and perhaps less colorful) than the one down-
stairs (both open daily 1000-2200).
The pub upstairs in the Takia Hotel (tel. 81 1-
655) is a safe, fun place to drink, even though the
bartenders are enclosed in a cage! There's also
a disco at the Takia open Friday and Saturday
2030-0100.
Indian firewalking takes place once a year
sometime between June and October at Agn-
imela Mandir. the Firewalkers Temple at Vuni-
vau, five km northeast of Labasa.
OTHER PRACTICALITIES
Information and Services
There's a public library (tel. 812-894; Mon.-Fri.
0900-1300, 1400-1700, Sat. 0900-1200) in the
Civic Center near Labasa Bus Station. Public
toilets are adjacent to the library.
The ANZ Bank is opposite the bus station,
and the Westpac Bank is farther west on
Nasekula Road.
The public fax number at Labasa Post Office
is fax 81 3-666.
One-hour color film developing is available
at Caines Photofast (tel. 812-666) on Naseku-
la Road near the Bank of Baroda.
Health
The Northern District Hospital (tel. 81 1-444),
northeast of the river, is open 24 hours a day
tor emergencies.
Less serious medical problems should be
taken to a private doctor, such as Dr. Hermant
Kumar of Kumar's Medical Center (tel. 814-
155) on Jaduram Street near the Labasa Guest
House. Nearby on Nanuku Street toward
Nasekula Road is a private dentist, Dr. Ashwin
Kumar Lai (tel. 814-077).
Labasa Drug Store (tel. 811-178) is on
Nasekula Road opposite the post office.
TRANSPORTATION
Air Fiji (tel. 81 1-188), on Nasekula Road oppo-
site the Westpac Bank, has service six times a
day between Labasa and Suva (F$1 15). Sun
Air (tel. 811-454; Mon.-Fri. 0800-1700, Sat.
0800-1200), at the corner of Nasekula Road
and Damanu Street, flies direct to Nadi (F$142)
four times a day, to Suva (F$1 15) twice daily,
and to Taveuni (F$59) three times a week.
To get to the airport, 10 km southwest of
Labasa, take a taxi (F$7) or the green and yel-
low Waiqele bus. Sun Air has a bus based at
the airport that brings arriving passengers into
town free of charge, but departing passengers
must sometimes find their own way from
Labasa to the airport. Air Fiji's bus takes pas-
sengers to/from the airport at F$0.65 pp (when
operating).
Patterson Brothers Shipping (tel. 812-444;
Mon.-Fri. 0900-1400, 1500-1630, Sat. 0900-
1 1 30) has an office near Sun Air on Nasekula
Road where you can book your bus/ferry/bus
ticket through to Suva via Nabouwalu and Natovi
(10 hours, F$45). This bus leaves Labasa at
0600 on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and
passengers arrive in Suva at 1715. There's also
a direct bus/boat/bus connection from Labasa to
Lautoka (F$45) via Ellington Wharf (near
Nananu-i-Ra Island) on Tuesday, Thursday,
and Saturday, and another service straight
through to Levuka. Ask about the through
bus/boat service from Labasa to Taveuni via
Natuvu, departing Labasa Monday, Wednes-
day, and Friday at 0600 (six hours, F$19).
Beachcomber Cruises (tel. 817-788; Mon.-
Fri. 0800-1700, Sat. 0800-1300), near Patterson
Brothers on Nasekula Road, books passage on
the car ferry MV Adi Savusavu. Their through
bus/boat ticket to Suva via Savusavu is FS48/58
economy/first class (or F$6 less for the boat
only). They also book the HSC Lagilagi from
Savusavu to Lautoka and Nadi twice a week
(five hours, F$90).
Consort Shipping Line (tel. 811-144, fax
814-411) has an office at the Government Wharf
at the north end of Damanu Street where you
can book passage on the Spirit of Free Enter-
prise from Savusavu to Suva.
To be dropped off on Kia Island on the Great
Sea Reef, negotiate with the fishing boats tied up
near the Labasa Club. Village boats from Kia
and Udu Point sometimes unload at the Gov-
ernment Wharf on the other side of town.
There are four regular buses a day (at 0630,
1030, 1300, and 1400) to Nabouwalu (210 km,
F$8), a dusty, tiring six-hour trip. Another five
Copyrighted material
SAVUSAVU 285
buses a day (at 0700, 0800, 0930, 1230, and
1615) run from Labasa to Savusavu (94 km,
three hours, F$5). a very beautiful ride on an ex-
cellent paved highway over the Waisali Saddle
between the Korotini and Valili mountains and
along the palm-studded coast. Take the early
bus before clouds obscure the views. Latchman
Buses Ltd. (tel. 814-390) also has an express
bus departing Labasa for Savusavu daily at 0700
(two hours, F$5).
Rental cars are available from Budget Rent A
Car (tel. 81 1-999) at Niranjans Mazda dealership
on Zoing Place up Ivi Street from opposite the
Jame Mosque at Nasekula west of town. Ob-
taining gasoline outside the two main towns is dif-
ficult, so tank up.
SAVUSAVU
Savusavu is a picturesque little town opposite
Nawi Island on Savusavu Bay. The view from
here across to the mountains of southwestern
Vanua Levu and down the coast toward
Nabouwalu is superlatively lovely. In the 1860s
Europeans arrived to establish coconut planta-
tions. They mixed with the Fijians, and even
though the copra business went bust in the
1 930s, their descendants and the Fijian villagers
still supply copra to a coconut oil mill, eight km
west of Savusavu, giving this side of Vanua Levu
a pleasant agricultural air. The urban popula-
tion of 5,000 is almost evenly split between Indo-
Fijians and indigenous Fijians with many part-R-
jians here too. One of Fiji's largest white expa-
triate communities is also present.
Savusavu is Vanua Lavu's main port, and
cruising yachts often rock at anchor offshore,
sheltered from the open waters of Savusavu
Bay by Nawi Island. The surrounding mountains
and reefs also make Savusavu a well-protected
hurricane refuge. The diving possibilities of this
area were recognized by Jean-Michel Cousteau
in 1990 when he selected Savusavu as the base
for his Project Ocean Search. Access to good
snorkeling is difficult, however, as the finest
\^f^m^ SAVUSAVU
>m.-^* r -. - -- I
" • ■ ■
'5*4
ANaviavia
V Wand
K o r o Sea
55
I
Poinl Rttf
LIGHTHOUSE
1M
286 VANUALEVU
beaches are under the control of the top-end
resorts and most other shore access is over ex-
tremely sharp karst. Although much smaller than
Labasa, Savusavu is the administrative center of
Cakaudrove Province and has three banks. In re-
cent years tourism has taken off around
Savusavu, with new resorts springing up all the
time, though the town is far from spoiled.
Sights
The one main street through Savusavu consists
of a motley collection of Indian and Chinese
shops, parked taxis, loitering locals, and the odd
tourist. The Copra Shed Marina is like a small
museum with map displays and historical photos,
information boards, and most of Savusavu's
tourist services. In front of the marina is a stone
dated to 1880, which is said to be from Fiji's first
copra mill.
Visit the small hot springs boiling out among
fractured coral below the Hot Springs Hotel.
Residents use the springs to cook native veg-
etables; bathing is not possible. These and small-
er hot springs along the shore of Savusavu Bay
near the main wharf remind one that the whole
area was once a caldera.
For a good circle trip, take a taxi from Savu-
savu past the airport to Nukubaiavu village (six
km, F$6), at the end of road along the south
side of the peninsula. From here you can walk
west along the beach to the Cousteau Fiji Is-
lands Resort on Lesiaceva Point in about an
hour at low tide. Try to avoid cutting through the
resort at the end of the hike as the Cousteau
management disapproves. From Lesiaceva it's
six km by road back to Savusavu.
For some mountain hiking ask one of the
Labasa buses to drop you at the entry kiosk to
the Waisali Nature Reserve established by the
National Trust for Fiji in 1 991 , about 40 km north-
west of Savusavu. This 116-hectare reserve
protects one of Vanua Levu's last unexploited
tropical rainforests with native species such as
the dakua, yaka, and kuasi well represented.
Viewpoints offer sweeping views and a nature
trail leads to a waterfall where you can swim.
Sports and Recreation
Eco Divers (Curly Carswell, P.O. Box 264,
Savusavu; tel. 850-122, fax 850-344) at the
Copra Shed Marina offers scuba diving, snor-
keling, dinghy hire, sailing, village visits, waterfall
tours, and guided hiking. They charge F$130
for a two-tank boat dive, or F$495 for a PADI
open-water certification course. Snorkeling from
the boat is F$18 pp if three or four people go,
F$25 pp for two people (two hours). Eco Divers
and the Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort use 21 of
the same buoyed dive sites off southern Vanua
Levu. Ocean kayak rental is F$35 a day, moun-
tain bikes F$20 a day. Three- to six-night guided
kayak tours around northwestern Savusavu Bay
are offered.
Savusavu Game Fishing (tel. 850-195),
based at the Hot Springs Hotel, has two fast
game fishing boats for hire at F$250/400 a
half/full day for the boat. Two to four people can
go for that price. You'll be trawling for trevally,
tuna, sailfish, marlin, or wahu (they recommend
lag and release" for billfish).
GOVERNMENT
WHARF
Savusavu B 4 "*
SAVUSAVU
SAVUSAVU 287
ACCOMMODATIONS
In Savusavu Town
We've arranged this accommodation section
beginning at Savusavu Bus Station and working
west through town to Lesiaceva Point, then east
along the coast.
A dorm called the Bosun's Bunks (P.O. Box
262, Savusavu; tel. 850-457), above the Cap-
tain's Cafe in the Copra Shed Marina, has 1 0
beds at F$10ppanight.
Hari Chand's Hidden Paradise Guest House
(P.O. Box 41 , Savusavu; tel. 850-106), just be-
yond Morris Hedstrom, has six rather hot wood-
en rooms at F$ 15/25/30 single/double/triple with
fan and shared bath, including a hearty English
breakfast. Cooking and washing facilities are
provided, and it's clean and friendly — don't be put
off by the plain exterior. You'll be well protected
by iron grills, fences, and watch dogs. The Indi-
an restaurant here is inexpensive, but pork, beef,
cigarettes, and booze are banned. A member
of the Chand family may offer to show you
around the Hindu temple up on the hill, if you
ask. Checkout time is 0900.
The Hot Springs Hotel (Lorna Eden, P.O.
Box 208, Savusavu; tel. 850-195, fax 850-430),
on the hillside overlooking Savusavu Bay, is
named for the nearby thermal springs and steam
vents. There are 48 rooms, all with balconies
offering splendid views. Fan rooms on the sec-
ond floor are F$80 single or double, while the
a/c rooms on the third and fourth floors are
FS125. The 12 ground floor rooms, each have
four dorm beds at F$25 pp including breakfast,
are collectively called the Rucksack Inn. Though
poorly maintained, this hotel is still a good deal.
No beach is nearby, but the swimming pool ter-
race is pleasant. Every day at 1000 the hotel
organizes a trip to "Barefoot Beach" across the
bay at FS15 including lunch. Many sporting ac-
tivities can be arranged. This former Travelodge
Is a convenient, medium-priced choice, and the
hotel bar is open daily including Sunday. Catch
the sunset here at happy hour (1700-1900) and
ask about the buffet dinner laid out on Saturday
nights (F$25).
David Manohar Lai's six-room Budget Holi-
day House (P.O. Box 65, Savusavu; tel. 850-
149), also known as "David's Place," is just be-
hind the Hot Springs Hotel. Five rooms with
shared bath cost F$1 8/24/28 single/double/triple
and one four-person family room is F$30. The
seven-bed dorm is F$15 pp, while camping is
F$9/15 single/double. Stay over a week and
you'll get 10 percent off and free laundry ser-
vice. All rates include a cooked breakfast and
there's a well-equipped kitchen. David's a de-
lightful character to meet and also a strict Sev-
enth-Day Adventist, so no alcoholic beverages
are allowed on the premises. A cacophony of
dogs, roosters, and the neighbor's kids will bid
you good morning. It's often full with people from
Eco Divers— call ahead.
Savusavu Bay Accommodation (P.O. Box
154, Savusavu; tel. 850-100), above Sea Breeze
Restaurant on the main street, has five stan-
dard rooms with bath at F$1 7/22 single/double,
four a/c rooms at F$40 single or double, and
one large four-person family room at F$60.
Cooking facilities are provided, and on the roof of
this two-story concrete building is a terrace where
travelers can wash and dry their clothes or just sit
and relax. Many of the rooms are rented on a
long-term basis, and the atmosphere is not as
nice as at the places previously mentioned.
The Anglican Diocese of Polynesia operates
the Daku Garden Resort (P.O. Box 18,
Savusavu; tel. 850-046. fax 850-334), one km
west of the ferry landing. The six bure with fan
and fridge (but no cooking) go for FS66/1 00/1 22
single/double/triple. Five larger four-person villas
with fully equipped kitchens rent for F$88/1 10/
132. Meals are served in a large bure next to
the swimming pool at FS9/13/20 for breakfast/
lunch/dinner. Profits from the resort are used to
send gifted children from remote areas to board-
ing school, so you'll be contributing to a worthy
1 1 1 it I ^3 S ■
Around Savusavu
In 1994 oceanographer Jean-Michel Cousteau,
son of the famous Jacques Cousteau, purchased
a hotel on Lesiaceva Point, six km southwest
of Savusavu. The Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Is-
lands Resort (Private Bag, Savusavu; tel. 850-
188, fax 850-340) stylishly re-creates a Fijian
village with 25 authentic-looking thatched bure.
Garden accommodations, airport transfers, and
all meals begin at FS685/895/1 ,065 single/dou-
Copy righted material
288 VANUALEVU
ble/triple, plus 10 percent tax. The rooms have
fans but no a/c. telephones, or cooking facili-
ties. The restaurant is built like a towering pagan
temple and nonguests wishing to dine there
must reserve (it's pricey and the food could be
better). Children under 1 3 are accommodated
free when sharing with their parents, and the
resort's Bula Camp (operating from 0900-2100)
is designed to help those aged three to nine
learn while having fun. Free activities include
sailing, kayaking, glass bottom boat trips, tennis,
water aerobics, videos, slide shows, and cultur-
al evenings. Fijian massage begins at F$70. In
addition, Gary Alford's outstanding on-site dive
operation, "L'Aventure Divers," offers scuba div-
ing (F$1 45/245 for one/two tanks plus gear),
PADI/TDI scuba instruction (F$965 for full certi-
fication), and underwater photography courses
(F$565). Cousteau himself is in residence at the
resort four or five times a year, and joins guests
on the morning dive whenever he can. To find
out if he'll be present during your stay, call the re-
sort's San Francisco office at tel. 800/246-3454
or 415/788-5794. There's good snorkeling off
their beach (ask about "split rock"), though the
resort's large Private Property signs warn
nonguests to keep out. A taxi from Savusavu
will run F$6. Bring insect repellent.
The Vatukaluvi Holiday House (P.O. Box
262, Savusavu; tel. 850-397), on the south side
of the peninsula, one km west of Savusavu air-
port, accommodates four people at F$55 for the
whole breezy house (or F$330 for two weeks).
Cooking facilities and fridge are provided, and
there's good snorkeling off the beach. Ask for
Geoff Taylor, vice-commodore of the Savusavu
Yacht Club. A taxi to Vatukaluvi will cost F$3
from the airport, F$5 from Savusavu.
The most upmarket place around Savusavu
is Namale Resort (Anthony Robbins, P.O. Box
244, Savusavu; tel. 850-435. fax 850-400), a
working copra plantation founded in 1874, on a
white-sand beach nine km east of Savusavu. The
superb food and homey atmosphere amid exotic
landscapes and refreshing beaches make this
one of Fiji's most exclusive resorts. The 12
thatched bure begin at F$1 ,295/1 ,525 single/dou-
ble, and rise to F$1,750 double for the honey-
moon bure with a private wading pool on its deck
(add 10 percent tax to these nightly rates). The
mosquito nets over the beds, ceiling fans, and
louvered windows give the units a rustic charm. In-
cluded are gourmet meals and drinks, airport
transfers, and all activities other than scuba diving.
Namale caters only to in-house guests — there's
no provision for sightseers who'd like to stop in for
lunch. Children under 12 are also banned.
The Koro Sun Resort (Private Mail Bag,
Savusavu; tel. 850-262, fax 850-352), once
known as Kontiki Resort and before that Matani
Kavika. is 1 5 km east of Savusavu on the Hi-
biscus Highway. The 1 3 tasteful hillside and gar-
den bungalows are FS720/820 single/double.
The four two-bedroom bungalows are 25-50
percent more. Included are meals and airport
transfers. Set in a wetl-kept coconut grove, the
Fijian schoolgirls smile for
the camera at Savusavu.
Vanua Lew.
naterial
SAVUSAVU 289
Koro Sun has nearby many interesting caves,
pools, trails, falls, ponds, and lakes to explore.
Scuba diving with Eco Divers is available
(F$145), including underwater weddings! A dive
site known as Dream House is right at Koro
Sun's front door. The snorkeling is fine as well,
but the nearest beach is a kilometer away.
There's a swimming pool, waterslide, a nine-
hole golf course, tennis courts, sport fishing,
kayaking, massage, and many other activities.
Vanua Levu's only real backpacker camp,
Mumu Resort (Rosie Edris, P.O. Box 240,
Savusavu; tel. 850-416), 18 km east of
Savusavu. occupies on the site of the spiritual
home of Radini Mumu, a legendary queen of
Fiji. The seven bare are F$45 single or double,
the four bunkhouse rooms F$35 single or double,
and the four-person "dream house" F$60.
There's also a six-bed dorm at F$12 pp, and
you can camp for F$7 pp. Communal cooking
and bathing facilities are available, and Mumu's
kitchen serves tasty Fijian and European dishes
at budget prices. Mumu is surrounded by the
Koro Sea on three sides, and two small unin-
habited islands nearby are easily accessible.
Although the scenery is good, the snorkeling is
poor; it's a very long swim over a shallow flat
before reaching a snorkelable area. Unfortu-
nately Mumu has gone downhill in recent years
and maintenance has been neglected. There's
no electricity or hot water, and one must be
aware of their dogs. In the opinion of one Aus-
tralian reader, it's completely overpriced. A taxi
here from Savusavu should be F$15, a bus
around F$1 , but call ahead unless you're plan-
ning to camp.
Ms. Collin McKenny from Seattle runs the Lo-
malagi Resort (P.O. Box 200, Savusavu; tel.
816-098, fax 816-099) on Natewa Bay, three
km west of Nasinu village. It's three km off the Hi-
biscus Highway up Salt Lake Road, about 25
km from Savusavu airport. The six deluxe self-
catering villas are F$750-1 ,350 double including
tax, transfers, and meals (children under 12 are
not admitted). Reductions are possible for those
who stay three weeks or more and wish to cook
for themselves. The villas are well spaced along
the hillside and each has an excellent view. This
property is a working coconut plantation with
500 meters of waterfront on Fiji's largest bay.
Two artificial waterfalls drop into the S-shaped
saltwater swimming pool. Kayaks, mountain
bikes, and snorkeling gear are loaned free. A
unique feature here is the "dolphin calling" trips
when a Fijian boatman "calls" the dolphins using
traditional magic. Collin says it works every time
when the bay is flat and calm, and that two pods
totaling as many as 100 dolphins are seen! The
charge is FS80 for the dolphins trip, including
snorkeling (the same without the dolphins is
F$60). Nonguests are welcome to stop by for
drinks, but call ahead to say you're coming if
you'd like to order a meal.
Namenalala Island
Moody's Namena (Private Mail Bag, Savusavu;
tel. 813-764, fax 812-366), on a narrow high is-
land southwest of Savusavu in the Koro Sea, is
one of Fiji's top hideaways. Hosts Tom and Joan
Moody ran a similar operation in Panama's San
Bias Islands for 15 years until June 1981 , when
they were attacked by Cuna Indians who shot
Tom in the leg and tried to bum the resort. The
media reported at the time that the Indians had
been scandalized by hotel guests who smoked
marijuana and cavorted naked on the beach,
but Joan claims it was all part of a ploy to evict
foreigners from San Bias to cover up drug-run-
ning activities.
In 1984, after a long search for a replace-
ment, the couple leased Namenalala from the Fiji
government, which needed a caretaker to protect
the uninhabited island from poachers. Their pre-
sent resort occupies less than 10 percent of Na-
menalala's 45 hectares, leaving the rest as a
nesting ground to great flocks of red-footed boo-
bies, banded rails, and Polynesian starlings.
Giant clams proliferate in the surrounding waters
within the 24-km Namena Barrier Reef, and from
November to March sea turtles haul themselves
up onto the island's golden sands to lay their
eggs. The corals along the nearby drop-offs are
fabulous and large pelagic fish glide in from the
Koro Sea. Sea snakes abound. The Moodys
have fought long and hard to protect Name-
nalala's fragile reefs from live-aboards that some-
times use them for high impact night diving.
Each of the Moody's six bamboo and wood
hexagonal-shaped bure are perched on clifftops,
allowing panoramic views, while still well tucked
away in the lush vegetation to ensure maximum
privacy. Illuminated by romantic gas lighting,
Copyrighted material
290 VANUALEVU
each features a private hardwood terrace with
270-degree views. Alternative energy is used
as much as possible to maintain the atmosphere
(though there is a secret diesel generator used to
ao tne laundry ana recnarge batteries).
The cost to stay here is FS575/775 single/dou-
ble plus tax, including all meals. The food is ex-
cellent, thanks to Joan's firm hand in the kitchen
and Tom s island-grown produce. (One reader
found the food too "American" and would have
preferred more fresh fish.) The ice water on the
tables and in the bure is a nice touch, but they
don't sell liquor so bring your own.
This resort is perfect for bird-watching, fishing,
and snorkeling, and scuba diving is available at
F$93 plus tax per tank (certification card re-
quired). The soft corals at Namenalala are
among the finest in the world and the diversity of
species is greater than on the Barrier Reef. If
you want a holiday that combines unsullied na-
ture with interesting characters and a certain el-
egance, you won't go wrong here. The remote-
ness is reflected in the price of getting there.
Pacific Island Seaplanes charges F$800-1,155
each way per couple for transfers from Nadi, or
F$400 each way per couple from Savusavu if
booked through the resort. Moody's closes from
1 March to 1 May every year.
FOOD AND ENTERTAINMENT
Food
The Captain's Cafe (tel. 850-511; open
Mon.-Fri. 0830-2030, Sat. 0900-2100, Sun.
1100-2030) at the Copra Shed Marina is a
yachtie hangout claiming to offer the best pizza
on Vanua Levu," which isn't saying a lot when
you think about it. Breakfast is F$7, pizzas
F$6-26. It's mostly a lunch place. Pick up a
newspaper and enjoy a leisurely read while wait-
ing for your order to amve. In the evening the out-
door seating on the wharf is nice but the food is
nothing special. Most of Savusavu's hip young lo-
cals show up here eventually.
The Wing Yuen Restaurant, near the Colo-
nial National Bank, is Savusavu's top Chinese
place — don't be deceived by the shabby exteri-
or or surly staff. The food is good and alcohol is
available.
Check out the trendy Cafe Bula Re, upstairs
in a building opposite the market. They offer
breakfast (FS3.50-7.50), crepes (F$5), ice cream
with coffee (under F$5), cocktails (F$4-6), Chi-
nese dishes (F$4.50-7.50), and a wide range
of other meals for under F$10. The service is
poor but the food is "absolutely okay." Happy
hour is 1800-1900.
An air conditioned, non-smoking restaurant
called Faletau s Daily Grind (tel. 850-710), op-
posite the bus station, is run by a guy named
Clay from San Francisco and his Fijian partner
Annabelle. Their food is about the best in town,
and it's about the only place where you can get
a cappuccino or espresso.
The Country Kitchen (tel. 850-829) near the
Westpac Bank opposite the bus station, offers
large servings of curries, chop suey, and fried
rice at FS3.50-4.50.
Some of the cheapest and best curries in
town are served at the Seaside Cafe (tel. 850-
1 06) at Hidden Paradise Guest House. Also try
the Harbor Cafe (tel. 850-150) next to the BP
service station below the Hot Springs Hotel for In-
dian dishes. The food is much better than the
exterior decor suggests.
The Sea Breeze Restaurant (tel. 850-100)
below Savusavu Bay Accommodation serves
mostjy Chinese dishes (F$3-5). Ifs open Sunday
for lunch and dinner, but is not as pleasant as the
other places around town.
The biggest market at Savusavu is early Sat-
urday morning. Free public toilets are behind
the market.
Entertainment
Drinkers can repair to the Planters Club (tel. 850-
233; Mon.-Thurs. 1000-2200, Fri. and Sat.
1000-2300, Sun. 1000-2000) toward the wharf—
this place is never out of Fiji Bitter. The weekend
dances at the club are local events. Despite the
Members Only sign, visitors are welcome. It's a
vintage colonial club even without the colonists.
The White Stork Tavern, next to the Planters
Club, is a rough public bar open Mon.-Sat.
1 100-2100. If there's a dance on Friday and
Saturday they'll stay open until 0100.
Level One (daily 1 100-2100), the bar at the
Copra Shed Marina, is rather hidden in the north-
east comer of the building— ask.
Copyrighted material
SAVUSAVU 291
OTHER PRACTICALITIES
Information and Services
Sea Fiji Travel (P.O. Box 264, Savusavu; tel.
850-345, fax 850-344), in the Copra Shed Mari-
na, specializes in scuba diving and adventure
travel. An adjacent shop sells nautical charts.
The ANZ Bank, Colonial National Bank, and
Westpac Bank all have branches at Savusavu.
Internet access is available at Savusavu Real
Estate (tel. 850-929; Mon.-Sat. 0800-1700,
Sat. 0800-1200) in the Copra Shed Marina.
Yachting Facilities
The Copra Shed Marina (P.O. Box 262,
Savusavu; tel. 850-457, fax 850-989) near the
bus station allows visiting yachts to moor along-
side at F$1 0 a day. Anchorage and use of the fa-
cilities by the whole crew is F$6 a day. You can
have your laundry done for FS7 (wash and dry).
Yachts can clear Fiji customs in Savusavu.
Arriving yachts should contact the Copra Shed
Marina over VHF 1 6. The customs office (where
yachties must report after the quarantine check)
is next to the BP service station below the Hot
Springs Hotel. After clearing quarantine and cus-
toms controls, yachties can proceed to the Im-
migration Department, across the street from
the Hot Bread Kitchen, a bit east of the market. If
you check in after 1630 or on weekends or holi-
days there's an additional charge on top of the
usual quarantine fee.
Health
The District Hospital (tel. 850-444; open
0830-1600) is two kilometers east of Savusavu
on the road to Labasa (taxi F$2).
Dr. Joeli Taoi's Savusavu Private Health
Center (tel. 850-721; Mon.-Thurs. 0830-1600,
Fri. 0830-1400) is between the Colonial Na-
tional Bank and the post office.
TRANSPORTATION
By Air
Air Fiji (tel. 850-538), at the Copra Shed Marina,
flies into Savusavu twice daily from Suva (F$90)
and Taveuni (F$59). Sun Air (tel. 850-141), in
the Copra Shed Marina, has flights to Savusavu
twice daily from Nadi (F$129) and Taveuni
(F$59). The airstrip is beside the main highway,
three km east of town. Local buses to Savusavu
pass the airport about once an hour, or take a
taxi for F$2.
By Boat
The Consort Shipping Line Ltd. (tel. 850-443.
fax 850-442), opposite the BP service station
below the Hot Springs Hotel, runs the large car
ferry MV Spirit of Free Enterprise from Suva to
Savusavu (14 hours, F$36 deck, FS70 cabin).
The ferry leaves Savusavu southbound Mon-
day and Thursday at 1 900, calling at Koro on
the way to Suva. Late Wednesday and Sunday
nights, the "Sofe" leaves Savusavu for Taveuni
(F$20 deck). These schedules often change.
Beachcomber Cruises (tel. 850-266, fax
850-499), at the Copra Shed Marina, runs the
65-meter car ferry MV Adi Savusavu from
Savusavu direct to Suva Wednesday, Friday,
and Sunday at 1900 (F$42/52 economy/first
class). It leaves Savusavu for Taveuni Wednes-
day and Friday at 0100. Beachcomber also
books the high-speed catamaran Lagiiagi, which
departs Savusavu at 1230 on Tuesday and Sat-
urday for Lautoka and Nadi (five hours, F$90). At
Nadi a courtesy bus is provided to all hotels.
Patterson Brothers Shipping (tel. 850-161),
upstairs in the Anderson Fong and Sons building
next to the post office, operates the bus/boat
connection to Taveuni via Natuvu, which should
depart Savusavu on Monday, Wednesday, and
Friday at 0900 (four hours, F$15).
By Road
Buses from Savusavu to Buca Bay and Napuka
leave at 1 030, 1 300, 1 430, and 1 600 daily except
Sunday (three hours, F$3.80).
Regular buses leave Savusavu for Labasa at
0730, 0930, 1300, and 1530, Sunday at 0930
and 1530 only (92 km, three hours, F$5). This
ride is easily the most scenic in Fiji. The Latch-
man express bus to Labasa (two hours; FS5.20)
departs Savusavu daily at 1430. There's also
an irregular bus that takes a roundabout route via
Natewa Bay between Savusavu and Labasa,
departing both ends at 0900 (F$10) — a scenic
ride through an area seldom seen by tourists.
Other Natewa Bay buses may finish their runs at
Yanuavou or Wainigadru.
Copyrighted material
292 VANUALEVU
Buses leave Savusavu for Lesiaceva Point
at 0700, 1200, and 1700 (FS0.60). For more in-
formation on buses headed south or east of
Savusavu, call Vishnu Holdings at tel. 850-276.
Numerous taxis congregate at Savusavu mar-
ket; they're affordable for short trips in the vicinity.
Tours
Eco Divers (tel. 850-122) at the Copra Shed
Marina offers a variety of day tours, including a
village tour (F$20), plantation tour (F$20), and a
Waisali Reserve tour (F$40). They only need
two participants to run a tour.
SeaHawk Charters (P.O. Box 659, Savusavu;
telefax 850-787) offers a five-hour yacht cruise on
Savusavu Bay at F$50 pp including lunch (min-
imum of two). The two-hour sunset cruise is
F$25 pp (four-person minimum). The 16-meter
yacht SeaHawk can be charted at very reason-
able rates. Call or email for information.
BUCA BAY AND RABI
ALONG THE HIBISCUS HIGHWAY
This lovely (if dusty or muddy) coastal highway
runs 75 km east from Savusavu to Natuvu on
Buca Bay, then up the east side of Vanua Levu
to the Catholic mission station of Napuka at the
end of the peninsula. In early 2001 the road was
being upgraded, a project which may last years.
Old frame mansions from the heyday of the
19th-century planters can be spotted among the
palms, and offshore you'll see tiny flowerpot is-
lands where the sea has undercut the coral rock.
Buca Bay is a recognized "hurricane hole," where
ships can find shelter during storms. Former
Prime Minister Rabuka hails from Drekeniwai vil-
lage on Natewa Bay, one of the largest bays in
the South Pacific.
Large red prawns inhabit a saltwater crevice in
the center of a tiny limestone island off Naweni
village between Savusavu and Buca Bay. The
villagers believe the prawns are the spirit Urubu-
ta and call them up by singing:
Keitou oqo na marama ni vuna
keitou mat sura Urubuta
I tuba i tuba e
I tuba i tuba e
The island is accessible on foot at low tide, but a
sevusevu must first be presented to the chief of
Naweni for permission to visit (no photos). Your
local guides will also expect compensation. Ask
to be shown the weather stone on the beach
and, perhaps, a second pool of prawns on the
other side of the village.
There are petroglyphs (vatuvola) on large
stones in a creek near Dakuniba village, 10 km
south of Natuvu (no bus service). Look for a
second group of rock carvings a couple of hun-
dred meters farther up the slope. The figures
resemble some undeciphered ancient script.
Until July 2000 the Buca Bay Resort (tel.
880-370). next to the ferry wharf at Natuvu, of-
fered rooms in a plantation house, a 12-bed
dorm, and bure. A swimming pool and library
were provided. Then during the chaos of the
George Speight crisis in Suva, this resort was in-
vaded by local villagers with land claims, so the
owners closed their doors and left Fiji. At last
report, the Buca Bay was still closed, so check
before planning a stay. Yachties can still anchor
off the resort. Activities in this area include a
hike to Tagici Peak, bird-watching (the rare or-
ange flame dove inhabits the upper forest), and
the scenic three-hour afternoon bus ride to Na-
puka and back (Mon.-Sat. at 1300).
Buses to Savusavu leave Buca Bay at 0530,
0800. and 1600 (75 km, three hours, F$3.80).
The ferry Grace leaves Natuvu for Taveuni week-
days at 1100 (F$7). The Patterson Brothers
barge Yaubula departs Natuvu for Taveuni Mon-
day, Wednesday, and Friday at 1 100 (F$9, cars
and vans F$65). It's a beautiful boat trip, but can
be rough if the wind is up.
Vanaira Bay
In 1998 the Vanaira Bay Backpackers Maven
(P.O. Box 77, Waiyevo, Taveuni; teL/fax 951-
083) opened on the bay of that name at the east
end of Vanua Levu directly across Somosomo
Strait from Taveuni. The only access is by boat
from Taveuni at F$25 pp round-trip (or F$35 pp
to Buca Bay). If you stay five nights, the transfer
is free. Bure accommodations are F$35 pp, dorm
beds F$30 pp, and camping F$20 pp, meals in-
Copyrighted material
BUCA BAY AND RABI 293
eluded. Vanaira is a working copra plantation,
and when tourism is down, owner Douglas
Thompson spends his time gathering coconuts,
tending his cattle, and fishing. It's an electricity-
free hideaway with snorkeling and hiking possi-
bilities. Kayaks, windsurfers, and a Hobie cat
are for rent. There's usually a boat over from
Waiyevo on Friday afternoon, but call ahead.
For more upscale accommodations there's
the Rainbow Reef Resort (tel. 880-900), on a
secluded beach two bays southwest of Vanaira
Bay. The three deluxe bure with curved decks,
outdoor atrium showers, and king-size beds
begin at F$875 double plus tax, including all
meals (drinks and scuba diving are extra). Add
F$250 plus tax for transfers from Taveuni Airport
(minimum stay three nights). Children under 16
pay for their meals only. The famous Rainbow
Reef is just minutes away by boat.
KIOA
The Taveuni ferry passes between Vanua Levu
and Kioa, home of some 300 Polynesians from
Vaitupu Island, Tuvalu (the former Ellice Islands).
In 1853 Captain Owen of the ship Packet ob-
tained Kioa from the Tui Cakau, and it has since
operated as a coconut plantation. In 1946 it was
purchased by the Ellice islanders, who were fac-
ing overpopulation on their home island.
The people live at Salia on the southeast side
of Kioa. The women make baskets for sale to
tourists, while the men go fishing alone in small
outrigger canoes. If you visit, try the coconut
toddy (kaleve) or more potent fermented toddy
(kamanging). The Patterson Brothers ferry
Yaubula often stops briefly at Kioa on its way
to Taveuni.
RABI
In 1855, at the request of the Tui Cakau on
Taveuni, a Tongan army conquered some Fi-
jian rebels on Rabi. Upon the Tongans' departure
a few years later, a local chief sold Rabi to Eu-
ropeans to cover outstanding debts, and before
World War II the Australian firm Lever Brothers
ran a coconut plantation here. In 1940 the British
government began searching for an island to
purchase as a resettlement area for the Mi-
cronesian Banabans of Ocean Island (Banaba)
in the Gilbert Islands (present Kiribati), whose
home island was being ravaged by phosphate
mining. At first Wakaya Island in the Lomaiviti
Group was considered, but the outbreak of war
and the occupation of Ocean Island by the
Japanese intervened. Back in Fiji, British offi-
cials decided Rabi Island would be a better
homeland for the Banabans than Wakaya, and in
March 1942 they purchased Rabi from Lever
Brothers using £25,000 of phosphate royalties
deposited in the Banaban Provident Fund.
Meanwhile the Japanese had deported the
Banabans to Kusaie (Kosrae) in the Caroline
Islands to serve as laborers, and it was not until
December 1945 that the survivors could be
brought to Rabi, where their 4,500 descendants
live today. Contemporary Banabans are citizens
of Fiji and live among Lever's former coconut
plantations at the northwest corner of the island.
The eight-member Rabi Island Council admin-
isters the island.
Rabi lives according to a different set of rules
than the rest of Fiji; in fact, about all they have in
common are their monetary, postal, and educa-
tional systems, kava drinking (a Fijian implant),
and Methodism. The local language is Gilbertese
and the social order is that of the Gilbert Islands.
Most people live in hurricane-proof concrete-block
houses devoid of furniture, with personal pos-
sessions kept in suitcases and trunks. The cook-
ing is done outside in thatched huts.
Alcoholic beverages are not allowed on Rabi,
so take something else as gifts. On Friday nights
the local maneaba in Tabwewa village rocks to a
disco beat and dancing alternates with sitting
around the omnipresent kava bowl, but on Sun-
day virtually everything grinds to a halt. Another
charming feature: adultery is a legally punish-
able offense on Rabi.
The island reaches a height of 472 meters
and is well wooded. The former Lever head-
quarters is at Tabwewa, while the abandoned
airstrip is near Tabiang at Rabi's southwest tip.
Rabi's other two villages are Uma and
Buakonikai. At Nuku between Uma and Tabwe-
wa is a post office, Telecom office, clinic, hand-
icraft shop, and general store. The hill behind
the Catholic mission at Nuku affords a fine view.
Motorized transport on Rabi consists of two or
Copyrighted material
294 VANUA LEVU
THE BANABANS
The Banaban people on Rabi are from Banaba, a
tiny, six-square-km raised atoll 450 km southwest of
Tarawa in the Micronesian Gilbert Islands. Like Nauru,
Banaba was once rich in phosphates, but from 1 900
through 1979 the deposits were exploited by British,
Australian, and New Zealand interests in what is per-
haps the best example of a corporate/colonial rip-off
in the history of the Pacific islands.
After the Sydney-based Pacific Islands Company
discovered phosphates on Nauru and Banaba in
1899, a company official, Albert Ellis, was sent to
Banaba in May 1900 to obtain control of the re-
source. In due course "King" Temate and the other
chiefs signed an agreement granting Ellis's firm ex-
clusive rights to exploit the phosphate deposits on
Banaba for 999 years in exchange for £50 a year. Of
course, the guileless Micronesian islanders had no
idea what the scheme was all about.
As Ellis rushed to have mining equipment and
moorings put in place, a British naval vessel arrived
on September 28. 1901 to raise the British flag, join-
ing Banaba to the Gilbert and Ellice Islands Protec-
torate. The British government reduced the term of
the lease to a more realistic 99 years and the Pacif-
ic Phosphate Company was formed in 1902.
Things ran smoothly until 1909, when the islanders
refused to lease the company any additional land
after 15 percent of Banaba had been stnpped of both
phosphates and food trees. The British government
arranged a somewhat better deal in 1 91 3, but in 1 91 6
changed the protectorate to a colony so the Banabans
could not withhold their land again. After World War I
the company was renamed the British Phosphate
Commission (BPC), and in 1928 the resident com-
missioner, Sir Arthur Grimble, signed an order ex-
propriating the rest of the land against the Banabans'
wishes. The islanders continued to receive their tiny
royalty right up until World War II
On December 10, 1941, with a Japanese inva-
sion deemed imminent, the order was given to blow
up the mining infrastructure on Banaba, and on Feb-
ruary 28, 1942 a French destroyer evacuated com-
pany employees from the island. In August some
500 Japanese troops and 50 laborers landed on Ba-
naba and began erecting fortifications. The six Eu-
ropeans they captured eventually perished as a result
of ill treatment, and all but 150 of the 2,413 local
mine laborers and their families were eventually de-
ported to Tarawa, Nauru, and Kosrae. As a warn-
ing the Japanese beheaded three locals and used an-
other three to test an electrified anti-invasion fence.
Meanwhile the BPC decided to take advantage of
this situation to rid itself of the island's original in-
habitants once and for all to avoid any future hin-
drance to mining operations. In March 1942 the
commission purchased Rabi Island off Vanua Levu
in Fiji for £25,000 as an alternative homeland for
the Banabans. In late September 1945 the British re-
turned to Banaba with Albert Ellis the first to step
ashore. Only surrendering Japanese troops were
found on Banaba; the local villages had been de-
stroyed.
Two months later an emaciated and wild-eyed
Gilbertese man named Kabunare Koura emerged
from three months in hiding and told his story to a mil-
itary court:
We were assembled together and told that
M^Zy T&fiS GV^^I* 4&9W$ J $-£}4<U%£S€
soon be leaving. Our rifles were taken
away. We were put in groups, our names
taken, then marclted to tlx edge of the clif fs
where our hands were tied and we were
blindfolded and told to squat. Then we
were shot.
Kabunare either lost his balance or fainted, and fell
over the cliff before he was hit. In the sea he came to
the surface and kicked his way to some rocks, where
he severed the string that tied his hands. He crawled
into a cave and watched the Japanese pile up the
bodies of his companions and toss them into the
sea. He stayed in the cave two nights and, after he
thought it was safe, made his way inland, where he
survived on coconuts until he was sure the Japanese
had left. Kabunare said he thought the Japanese
had executed the others to destroy any evidence
of their cruelties and atrocities on Banaba. After a
postwar trial on Guadalcanal, the Japanese com-
mander of Banaba. Suzuki Naoomi, was hanged
for his crimes.
As peace returned the British implemented their
plan to resettle all 2.000 surviving Banabans on Rabi,
which seemed a better place for them than their
mined-out homeland. The first group arrived on Rabi
Copyrighted material
BUCA BAY AND RABI 295
on December 14, 1945, and in time they adapted to
their mountainous new home and traded much of
their original Micronesian culture for that of the Fi-
jians. There they and their descendants live today.
During the 1960s the Banabans saw the much
better deal Nauru was getting from the BPC. Mainly
through the efforts of Hammer DeRoburt and the
"Geelong Boys," who had been trapped in Australia
during the war and thus received an excellent edu-
cation and understanding of the white people's ways,
the Nauruan leadership was able to hold its own
against colonial bullying. Meanwhile the Banabans
were simply forgotten on Rabi.
In 1966 Mr. Tebuke Rotan. a Banaban Methodist
minister, journeyed to London on behalf of his peo-
ple to demand reparations from the British for laying
waste to their island, a case that would drag on for
nearly 20 bitter years. After some 50 visits to the
Foreign and Commonwealth offices, he was offered
£80,000 compensation, which he rejected. In 1971
the Banabans sued for damages in the British High
Court. After lengthy litigation, the British govern-
three island council trucks plying the single 23-
km road from Tabwewa to Buakonikai week-
days and Saturday mornings (under a dollar
each way). Enjoy another fine view from the
Methodist church center at Buakonikai. The is-
landers fish with handlines from outrigger ca-
noes.
Up on the hillside above the post office at
Nuku is the four-room Rabi Island Council
Guest House. This colonial-style structure is
the former Lever Brothers managers residence
and is little changed since the 1 940s except for
the extension now housing the dining area and
lounge. View superb sunsets from the porch.
One of the rooms is reserved for island officials;
the rest are used mostly by contract workers.
Other guests pay F$55 pp a night, which in-
cludes three meals. The facilities are shared (no
hot water) and the electric generator operates
1 800-2200 only— just enough time to watch a
video (the library next to the court house rents Go
tell it to the judge, a documentary about the Ba-
naban struggle for compensation).
Considering the limited accommodations and
the remoteness of Rabi, it's important to call the
Rabi Island Council (tel. 812-913, extension
ment in 1 977 offered the Banabans an ex gratia
payment of AS10 million, in exchange for a pledge
that there would be no further legal action.
In 1975 the Banabans asked that their island be
separated from the rest of Kiribati and joined to Fiji,
their present country of citizenship. Gilbertese politi-
cians, anxious to protect their fisheries zone and wary
of the dismemberment of the country, lobbied against
this, and the Bntish rejected the proposal. I he free
entry of Banabans to Banaba was guaranteed in the
Kiribati constitution, however. In 1979 Kiribati ob-
tained independence from Britain and mining on Ba-
naba ended the same year. Finally, in 1981 the Ban-
abans accepted the A$10 million compensation
money, plus interest, from the British, though they
refused to withdraw their claim to Banaba. (Much of
the money "disappeared" between 1989 and 1991
during a period of corruption in the Rabi Council of
Leaders.) The present Kiribati government rejects all
further claims from the Banabans, asserting that they
should be settled with the British. The British are sim-
ply trying to forget the whole thing.
30, or tel. 812-348, extension 31 , fax 813-750) for
guesthouse bookings and other information be-
fore setting out. You could also ask at the office
of the Rabi Council of Leaders (P.O. Box 329,
Suva; tel. 303-653, fax 300-543), 1st floor. Ban-
aba House, Pratt Street (above Hare Krishna
Restaurant), Suva, but they'll probably only refer
you to the island council. Foreign currency can-
not be changed on Rabi and even Fijian bills
larger than F$10 may be hard to break. Insect re-
pellent is not sold locally.
To get there catch the daily Napuka bus at
1030 from Savusavu to Karoko. A chartered
speedboat from Karoko to the wharf at Nuku on
the northwest side of Rabi costs F$40 each way,
less if people off the Napuka bus are going over
anyway. The Patterson Brothers ferry Yaubula
between Natuvu and Taveuni calls at Rabi about
once a month depending on cargo, usually leav-
ing Natuvu at 1 100 on a Tuesday or a Thurs-
day (any Patterson Brothers office should know).
The smaller ferry Grace also arrives from Tave-
uni occasionally. Two small trading vessels call
at the jetty at Nuku on alternate Saturday morn-
ings and they'll usually take you back to Karoko
for F$5.
Copyrighted material
296 TAVEUN I
TAVEUN I
Long, green, coconut-covered Taveuni is Fiji's
third-largest island. It's 42 km long, 15 km wide,
and 470 km square in area. Only eight km across
the Somosomo Strait from Vanua Levu's south-
east tip, Taveuni is known as the Garden Island
of Fiji because of the abundance of its flora.
Around 60 percent of the land is tropical rain-
forest and virtually all of Fiji's coffee is grown
here. Its surrounding reefs and those off nearby
Vanua Levu are some of the world's top dive
sites. The strong tidal currents in the strait nurture
the corals, but can make diving a tricky busi-
ness for the unprepared.
Because Taveuni is free of the mongoose,
there are many wild chickens, kula lorikeets,
red-breasted musk parrots, honeyeaters. silk-
tails, ferntails, goshawks, and orange-breasted
doves, making this a special place for birders.
Here you'll still find the jungle fowl, banded rail,
and purple swamp hen, all extinct on Viti Levu
and Vanua Levu. The Fiji flying fox and mastiff
bat are also seen only here. The Taveuni long-
horn beetle is the largest beetle in Australasia.
The island's 16-km-long, 1 ,000-meter-high
volcanic spine causes the prevailing trade winds
to dump colossal amounts of rainfall on the is-
land's southeast side, and considerable quanti-
ties on the northwest side. At 1,241 meters,
Uluiqalau in southern Taveuni is the second-
highest peak in Fiji, and Des Voeux Peak (1 ,195
meters) in central Taveuni is the highest point in
the country accessible by road. The European
discoverer of Fiji, Abel Tasman, sighted this
ridge on the night of February 5, 1643. The al-
most inaccessible southeast coast features plum-
meting waterfalls, soaring cliffs, and crashing
surf. The 12,000 inhabitants live on the island's
gently sloping northwest side. The bulk of the
population is Fijian but Indo-Fijians run many of
the shops, hotels, buses, and taxis.
The deep, rich volcanic soil nurtures indige-
nous floral species such as Medinilla spectabilis,
which hang in clusters like red sleigh bells, and
the rare tagimaucia (Medinilla waterousei), a
climbing plant with red-and-white flower clus-
ters 30 cm long. Tagimaucia grows only around
Taveuni's 900-meter-high crater lake and on
Vanua Levu. It cannot be transplanted and blos-
soms only from October to December. The story
goes that a young woman was fleeing from her
material
TAVEUNI 297
298 TAVEUNI
father, who wanted to force her to marry a crotch-
ety old man. As she lay crying beside the lake,
her tears turned to flowers. Her father took pity on
her when he heard this and allowed her to marry
her young lover.
In the past decade Taveuni has become very
popular as a destination for scuba divers and
those in search of a more natural vacation area
than is possible in the overcrowded Nadi/Coral
Coast strips. Even the producers of the film Re-
rum to the Blue Lagoon chose Taveuni for their
1991 remake of the story of two adolescents on
desert isle. Despite an tnis attention, I aveuni is
still about the most beautiful, scenic, and friend-
ly island in Fiji. It's a great place to hang out, so
be sure to allow yourself enough time there.
SIGHTS
Central Taveuni
Taveuni's post office, police station, hospital,
government offices, and country club are on a
hilltop at Waiyevo, above the Garden Island
Resort. On the coast below is the island's biggest
hotel.
The 1 80th degree of longitude passes through
a point marked by a display called Taveuni's
Time Line at Waiyevo, 500 meters up the road
from the shops near the Garden Island Resort.
One early Taveuni trader overcame the objec-
tions of missionaries to his doing business on
Sunday by claiming the international date line
ran through his property. According to him, when
it was Sunday at the front door, it was already
Monday around back. Similarly, European
planters got their native laborers to work seven
days a week by having Sunday at one end of
the plantation, and Monday at the other. An 1879
ordinance ended this by placing all of Fiji west of
the dateline, so you're no longer able to stand
here with one foot in the past and the other in the
present. Despite this, it's still the most accessible
place in the world crossed by the 1 80th meridian.
To get to the Waitavala Sliding Rocks, walk
north from the Garden Island Resort about five
minutes on the main road, then turn right onto the
side road leading to Waitavala Estates. Take
the first road to the right up the hill, and when you
see a large metal building on top of a hill, turn left
and go a short distance down a road through a
coconut plantation to a clearing on the right. The
trail up the river to the sliding rocks begins here.
The water slide in the river is especially fast after
heavy rains, yet the local kids go down standing
up! Admission is free.
At Wairiki, a kilometer south of Waiyevo, are
a few stores and the picturesque Catholic mis-
sion, with a large stone church containing inter-
esting sculptures and stained glass. There are no
pews: the congregation sits on the floor Fijian
style. From Wairiki Secondary School you can
hike up a tractor track to the large concrete
cross on a hill behind the mission in 30 minutes
each way. You'll be rewarded with a sweeping
view of much of western Taveuni and across So-
mosomo Strait. A famous 1 9th-century naval bat-
tle occurred here when Taveuni warriors turned
back a large Tongan invasion force, with much of
the fighting done from canoes. The defeated
Tongans ended up in Fijian ovens and the French
priest who gave valuable counsel to the Fijian
chief was repaid with laborers to build his mission.
A jeep road from Wairiki climbs to the telecom-
munications station on Des Voeux Peak. This is
an all-day trip on foot with a view of Lake Tagi-
maucia as a reward (clouds permitting). The
lake itself is not accessible from here. The rare
monkey-faced fruit bat (Pteralopex acrodonta)
survives only in the mist forest around the sum-
mit. Unless you hire a jeep to the viewpoint, it will
take four arduous hours to hike the six km up and
another two to walk back down.
One of the only stretches of paved road on
southern Taveuni is at Soqulu Plantation or
T aveuni Estates" (tel. 880-044), about eight km
south of Waiyevo. This ill-fated condo develop-
ment features an attractive golf course (green
fees F$20) by the sea, tennis courts, and a bowl-
ing green, plus street signs pointing nowhere,
empty roads, sewers, and 30 unfinished con-
dominiums built by an undercapitalized real es-
tate speculator who badly miscalculated Tave-
uni's potential for Hawaii-style residential devel-
opment. Visitors are sometimes accommodated
in a 120-year-old plantation house a four-minute
walk from the golf course.
Southern Taveuni
Transportation to the south end of Taveuni is
spotty with bus service from Naqara Mon-
day-Saturday at 0800, 1200, and 1600 only.
Copyrighted material
TAVEUNI 299
Since the 1600 bus spends the night at Vuna land. Some of Fiji's only Australian magpies (large
and doesn't return to Naqara until the next mom- black-and-white birds) inhabit this plantation,
ing, the only way to really see southern Taveuni Just east of South Cape as you come from
is to also spend the night there. If this isn't pos- Navakawau is the Matamaiqi Blowhole, where
sible. the roundtrip bus ride leaving Naqara at trade wind-driven waves crash into the unpro-
0800 and around noon is still well worth doing, tected black volcanic rocks, sending geysers of
The bus from Naqara runs south along the sea spray soaring skyward, especially on a south-
coast to Susie's Plantation, where it turns inland to em swell. The viewpoint is just off the main road.
Delaivuna. There it turns around and returns to At Vuna, lava flows have formed pools be-
the coast, which it follows southeast to Navakawau side the ocean, which fill up with fresh water at
via South Cape. On the way back it cuts directly low tide and are used for washing and bathing,
across some hills to Kanacea and con- n^^^ Ti |pq dav around 1500 the local butcher
tinues up the coast without going to dumps the week's offal into the sea
Delaivuna again. Southeast
Kanacea there is little traffic.
A hike around southern
Taveuni provides an interest-
ing day out for anyone staying
at Susie's Plantation or one
of the other nearby resorts.
From Susie's a road climbs
east over the island to De-
laivuna, where the bus
turns around at a gate. The
large Pnvate Property sign
here is mainly intended to
ward off miscreants who cre-
ate problems for the plantation
5 owners by leaving open cattle
| gates. Visitors with enough
o sense to close the gates be
2 hind themselves may proceed
You hike one hour down
through the coconut planta-
tion to a junction with two
gates, just before a small
bridge over a (usually) dry
stream. If you continue walk-
ing 30 minutes down the road straight ahead
across the bridge you'll reach Salialevu, site of
the Bilyard Sugar Mill (1874-96), one of Fiji's
first. In the 1860s European planters tried grow-
ing cotton on Taveuni. turning to sugar when
the cotton market collapsed. Later, copra was
found to be more profitable. A tall chimney, boil-
ers, and other equipment remain below the
school at Salialevu.
After a look around, return to the two gates at
the bridge and follow the other dirt road south-
west for an hour through the coconut plantation to
Navakawau village at the southeast end of the is-
The ruins of the century-old Bilyard
Sugar Mill at Salialevu, Taveuni, lie
incongruously in the midst of today 's
coconut plantation.
near here and the sharks go into a
feeding frenzy.
Northern Taveuni
Somosomo is the chiefly vil-
lage of Cakaudrove and the
seat of the Tui Cakau, Tave-
uni's "king"; the late Ratu Sir
Penaia Ganilau, last gover-
nor general and first presi-
dent of Fiji, hailed from here.
The two distinct parts of the
village are divided by a small
stream where women wash
their clothes. The southern
portion called Naqara is the
island's commercial center
with several large Indo-Fijian
stores, the island's bank, and a
couple of places to stay. Pa-
cific Transport has its bus ter-
minus here.
Somosomo, to the north of
Naqara, is the chiefly quarter
with the personal residence
of the Tui Cakau on the hill directly above the
bridge (no entry). Beside the main road below is
the large hall built for the 1986 meeting of the
Great Council of Chiefs. Missionary William
Cross, one of the creators of today's system of
written Fijian, who died at Somosomo in 1843, is
buried in the attractive new church next to the
meeting hall. There's even electric street lighting
in this part of town!
The challenging trail up to lovely Lake Tagi-
maucia, 823 meters high in the mountainous
interior, begins behind the Mormon church at
Naqara. The first half is the hardest. You'll need
300 TAVEUNI
a full day to do a round-trip, and a guide will be
necessary as there are many trails to choose
from. You must wade for a half-hour through
knee-deep mud in the crater to reach the lake's
edge. Much of the lake's surface is covered with
floating vegetation, and the water is only five
meters deep.
Bouma National Heritage Park
This important nature reserve between Bouma
and Lavena in northeastern Taveuni has been
developed with New Zealand aid money. In 1990
an agreement was signed with the communi-
ties of Waitabu, Vidawa, Korovou, and Lavena
putting the area in trust for 99 years, and the
Tavoro Forest Park at Bouma was established a
year later. The Lavena Coastal Walk, Vidawa
Rainforest Hike, and Waitabu Marine Park are
other features of the park, and the various ad-
mission fees and tour charges are used for local
community projects, to provide local residents
with an immediate practical reason for preserv-
ing their natural environment.
There are three lovely waterfalls just south of
Bouma (admission F$5). From the information
kiosk on the main road it's an easy 10-minute
walk up a broad path along the river's right bank
to the lower falls, which plunge 20 meters into a
deep pool. You can swim here, and change
rooms, toilets, picnic tables, and a barbecue are
provided. A well-constructed trail leads up to a
tacular viewpoint overlooking Qamea Island and
Taveuni's northeast coast. You must cross the
river once, but a rope is provided for balance.
Anyone in good physical shape can reach this
second falls with ease, and there's also a pool for
swimming. The muddy, slippery trail up to the
tnira ana mgnest tans involves two nver crossings
with nothing to hold onto, and it would be un-
pleasant in the rain. This trail does cut through
the most beautiful portion of the rainforest, and
these upper falls are perhaps the most impres-
sive of the three, as the river plunges over a
black basalt cliff, which you can climb and use as
a diving platform into the deep pool. The water
here is very sweet.
A new activity in this area is the six-hour Vi-
dawa Rainforest Hike during which local guides
introduce the birdlife, flora, and archaeological
sites of the area to visitors. You scramble over
volcanic ridges offering spectacular views and
explore old village sites with their temple plat-
forms and ring ditches still clearly visible. Your
guide brings it all to life with tales of the old ways
of his people. A picnic lunch is served by a
spring-fed stream deep in the interior. The trek
ends at Bouma Falls where hikers are rewarded
with a refreshing swim. The F$60 pp cost (F$40
for children) includes park entry fees and trans-
portation from anywhere on northern Taveuni
(call 880-390 to book).
bimnar is ine waitaDu Marine rarK wnere a
lagoon area two km before Bouma has been
declared a "no fishing" sanctuary for fish and
snorkelers. The FS50 pp tour price also includes
snorkeling gear, transportation, and food. Book
five-hour snorkeling tours here through the dive
shop Aquaventure (tel. 880-381 ) south of Matei
Airpon. Heauctions tor cnnaren are available.
The departure time varies according to tide and
weather conditions. These tours are good value,
and you'll be supporting a worthy cause.
At Bouma, visitors can sleep on mats in the
house behind the park information kiosk (tel.
880-390) at F$5 per head; otherwise it might be
possible to camp or stay with the locals. Bouma
is easily accessible by public bus daily except
Sunday. If you depart Waiyevo or Naqara on
the 0800 bus, you'll have about three and a half
hours to see the falls and have a swim before
catching the 1400 bus back to Waiyevo. This
second bus does a round-trip to Lavena, six km
south (the 0800 bus finishes at Bouma), and it's
worth jumping on for the ride even if you don't in-
tend to get off at Lavena.
The Lavena Coastal Walk officially opened in
1 993. You pay your F$5 admission fee (separate
from the F$5 fee charged at Bouma) at the Lave-
na Lodge Visitor Center, right at the end of the
road at Lavena. Guides are available at F$10V15
pp a half/full day. From the Visitor Center you can
hike the five km down the Ravilevo Coast to
Wainibau Falls in about an hour and a half.
You'll pass Naba village, where the descendants
of blackbirded Solomon Islanders live to this
day, and a suspension bridge over the Waini-
sairi River, which drains Lake Tagimaucia in
Taveuni's interior. The last 15 minutes is a
scramble up a creek bed, which can be very
slippery as you wade along. Two falls here
plunge into the same deep basalt pool and dur-
Copyrighted material
TAVEUNI 301
ing the rainy season you must actually swim a
short distance to see the second pool. Diving
into either pool is excellent fun. Be on guard,
however, as flash flooding often occurs. Keep to
the left near the base of the falls. Several lovely
beaches and places to stop are along the trail
(allow four hours there and back from Lavena
with plenty of stops).
If you also want to see Savulevu Yavonu Falls,
which plummet off a cliff directly into the sea, you
must hire a boat at F$75 for up to three people or
F$25 pp for up to six. Intrepid ocean kayakers
sometimes paddle down this back side of Taveu-
ni, past countless cliffs and waterfalls. The steep
forested area south of Wainibau Stream forms
part of the Ravilevu Nature Reserve.
Lavena Lodge, a pleasant European style
building with running water and lantern lighting,
has four rooms (two doubles and two three-bed
dorms) at F$15 pp. Sinks are provided in the
rooms, but the bath is shared. Good cooking fa-
cilities are provided and you can eat at a picnic
table on a hill overlooking the beach or on the
lodge's terrace. Dinner can be ordered for F$7.
A village store is opposite the lodge, and two
other small trade stores are nearby (however
it's best to bring groceries with you). The vil-
lagers will prepare meals for you at F$7 each.
Mosquito coils are essential (the flies are a nui-
sance too). An excellent golden beach is right in
front of the lodge, and at Ucuna Point, a five-
minute walk away, is a picnic area where you
can spend an afternoon (be careful with the cur-
rents if you snorkel). It's a great place to hang out
for a few days — the film Return to the Blue La-
goon was filmed here. To book, call Lavena via
radio telephone at 116-801 (answered
0800-0900, 1400-1500 only). Ifs not possible to
visit Lavena as a day-trip by public bus (taxis
charge F$50 round-trip to bring you here). Buses
depart Lavena for Naqara Monday-Saturday at
0600 and 1400, Sunday at 0730.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Taveuni and surrounding waters have become
known as one of Fiji's top diving areas. The fab-
ulous 32-km Rainbow Reef off the south coast of
eastern Vanua Levu abounds in turtles, fish,
overhangs, crevices, and soft corals, all in 5-10
meters of water. Favorite dive sites here include
Annie's Bommie. Blue Ribbon Eel Reef, Cab-
bage Patch, Coral Garden, Jack's Place, Jer-
ry's Jelly. Orgasm, Pot Luck, The Ledge, The
Zoo, and White Sandy Gully. At the Great White
Wall, a tunnel in the reef leads past sea fans to a
magnificent drop-off and a wall covered in awe-
some white soft coral. Beware of strong currents
in the Somosomo Strait.
Unfortunately, we've recently received a num-
ber of complaints about some of the Taveuni
dive shops. We've heard about "coral bashers"
Wl IU ixslclcboly U HUW II Itf al lOi IUI II IIU live Uulal, Ul
use coral heads to balance themselves against
the current. Other operators dive on inferior local
reefs rather than commute long distances to the
best spots, while one is snobbish and particularly
contemptuous of budget travelers. We encour-
age readers to speak up if they witness any eco-
unf riendly behavior by divemasters or their fellow
divers. It's also unwise to snorkel out to the edge
of the reef alone on Taveuni, as shark attacks are
not unknown here (elsewhere in Fiji, they're ex-
tremely rare).
Way back in 1976, Ric and Do Cammick's
Dive Taveuni (c/o Postal Agency, Matei; tel.
880-445, fax 880-466) pioneered scuba diving in
this area, discovering and naming most of the
sites now regularly visited by divers. These days
they cater exclusively to small groups that have
prebooked stays at the Taveuni Island Resort
from abroad. Nonguests need not apply.
Walk-in divers are welcome at Swiss Fiji
Divers (c/o Postal Agency. Matei; tel./fax 880-
586), just down the road from the Taveuni Is-
land Resort and a short distance from most of the
places to stay on northern Taveuni. Divemas-
ters Dominique Egerter and Evi Antonietti charge
F$180 for a two-tank dive. For those staying
longer, they have five-day packages for F$869 or
ten days for F$1 .430. Rental gear is F$60. Their
4-6 day PADI openwater course is FS693, and
many other specialized dive courses are offered.
A "discover diving" experience is F$275. This is
Taveuni's newest dive shop and their equipment
is first rate. Readers have remarked on their
professionalism.
Aquaventure (c/o Postal Agency, Matei; tel.
880-381 , fax 880-371 ), run by Tania de Hoon,
has its base on the beach a few minutes walk
south of Swiss Fiji Divers. Tania charges F$130
Copyrighted material
302 TAVEUNI
for two tanks, plus F$22 for gear (F$566 for 10
dives). Trips start at 0800 and 1300. Night dives
are F$90. Aquaventure's five-day PADI certifi-
cation course costs F$600 including six dives
(or F$130 for an introductory dive). Ask Tania
about snorkeling trips to Waitabu Marine Park
(F$50 pp all inclusive).
Aqua-Trek Taveuni (tel. 880-544, fax 880-
288), at the Garden Island Resort, caters mostly
to divers who've prebooked from the States. The
daily two-tank dives are F$165 plus gear (no one-
tank dives). PADI scuba certification costs FS660,
or take a one-tank "discover scuba course" at
F$148. You'll find cheaper dive shops, but Aqua-
Trek's facilities are first rate. This is the closest
dive shop to the famous Rainbow Reef.
Budget-minded divers should check out Vuna
Reef Divers (P.O. Box 69, Taveuni; tel. 880-
531 , fax 880-125), also known as The Dive Cen-
ter, run by a guy named Roland at Susie's Plan-
tation. He offers boat dives at F$95 for two tanks
(plus F$15 extra for gear). Roland's four-day
PADI scuba certification courses (FS400) usually
begin on Monday, and Susie's makes a perfect
base for these activities.
Nok's Dive Center (P.O. Box 22, Taveuni;
tel. 880-246, fax 880-072), at Kris Backplace
north of Susie's, offers diving at FS66/88 for
one/two dives, plus F$1 1 a day for gear. Night
dives are F$66. Snorkelers can go along in the
boat for a nominal fee, although some dive sites
are not really suitable for snorkeling (ask). Nok's
also does four-day PADI certification course.
Divers from both Nok's and Susie's dive mostly
on the Vuna Reef, as the Rainbow Reef is far
away from them.
Geoffry Amos (tel. 880-371), who lives in the
house marked Raikivi between Dolores Porter
and Sere-ni-lka at Matei, does game fishing trips
on his boat the Lucky Strike. It's F$4507800 for a
half/full day for up to six people (all fish caught
belong to the boat).
Adjacent to Aquaventure is Ringgold Reef
Kayaking (tel. 880-083) with lots of two-per-
son fiberglass kayaks for rent (F$8 an hour).
It's run by Keni Madden who lives up the hill.
He often takes prebooked groups on four-to-
seven day ocean kayaking trips to Yanuca and
Qamea islands.
The dive shop at the Garden Island Resort
rents kayaks at F$20 an hour.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Places to stay are scattered all around Taveuni,
with the largest cluster in the vicinity of Matei
Airport. The smaller medium-priced places are
often heavily booked, so it's important to call
ahead to check availability. Be aware that some
Taveuni hotels and resorts are run in a rather
pretentious, personal manner which doesn't al-
ways work, and over half the complaints we re-
ceive regarding tourist accommodations in Fiji re-
late to places on Taveuni and its adjacent is-
lands. Don't go by the glowing reports of travel
agents or glossy magazine journalists who came
on freebie trips: ask other travelers who have
been there recently for specific personal rec-
ommendations.
Taveuni still doesn't have a public electricity
supply but most of the places to stay have their
own generators, which typically run 1800-2100
only. The following listings are arranged from
north to south.
Under US$25 North
Niranjan's Budget Accommodation (c/o Postal
Agency, Matei; tel. 880-406) is just a five-minute
walk east of the airport. The four rooms in the
main building, each with two beds, fridge, fan,
and cooking facilities, go for F$35/45 single/dou-
ble. The electric generator is on 1 800-2200,
you hope. Niranjan himself is very hospitable
guy.
The best place on Taveuni to camp is May
Goulding's Todranisiga (c/o Postal Agency,
Matei; no phone), on a bluff overlooking the sea
500 meters south of the airport terminal. The
two set tents with four mattresses each are F$1 5
pp (or F$50 for the whole tent). You could also
pitch your own tent on a large grassy area for
F$15 pp. An open-air kitchen bure is provided.
You'll see some stunning sunsets from this hill,
which is nicely secluded from the road and quite
safe.
Beverly's Campground (tel. 880-684) is just
north of Prince Charles Beach, a bit over one
km south of the airport. Run by Bill Madden, it's
a peaceful, shady place, adjacent to Maravu
Plantation s beach. It's F$7 pp in your own tent,
or F$10 pp to sleep in a set tent. The toilet and
shower block is nearby. Cooking facilities are
Copyrighted material
TAVEUNI 303
Copyrighted material
304 TAVEUNI
available, but bring groceries (Bill provides free
fresh fruit from his garden daily). The kitchen
shelter by the beach is a nice place to sit and
swap traveler's tales with the other guests. The
clean white beach is just seconds from your tent.
A few hundred meters south is Lisi's Ac-
commodation (do Postal Agency, Matei; tel.
880-194), in a small village across the road from
a white-sand beach. Ifs F$7 pp to camp, or F$15
pp in a clean four-room bungalow with shared
cooking and bathing facilities. Your friendly hosts
Mary and Lote Tuisago serve excellent Fijian
meals at reasonable prices. Horseback riding
can be arranged here.
Under US$25 Center
The original budget hotel on Taveuni was Kaba's
Motel & Guest House (P.O. Box 4, Taveuni;
tel. 880-233, fax 880-202) at Naqara, which
charges F$25/35/40 single/double/twin in one
of four double rooms with shared facilities in the
guesthouse. The cooking facilities are very good.
The newer motel section is F$45/55/60 for one of
the six larger units with kitchenette, fridge, fan,
and private bath. The water is solar-heated, so
cold showers are de rigueur in overcast weather
(ask for a discount in that case). Kaba's Super-
market is just up the street. No check-ins are
accepted after 1800. Naqara is a convenient
place to stay for catching buses, but at night
there's nothing much to do other than watch the
BBC on TV.
A friendly Indo-Fijian family runs Kool's Ac-
commodation (tel. 880-395). just south of Kaba's
Motel at Naqara. The six rooms in two long blocks
facing the eating area are FS25/35 single/dou-
ble, and cooking facilities are provided (but no
fridge). It's basic and overpriced for what it is.
Sunset Accommodation (P.O. Box 15, Tave-
uni; tel. 880-229), on a dusty comer near the
wharf at Lovonivonu, has two basic rooms be-
hind a small store at F$15/20 single/double.
Again, this is mostly a tow-budget place to crash.
The First Light Inn (P.O. Box 3, Waiyevo;
tel. 880-339, fax 880-387), near the Garden Is-
land Resort at Waiyevo, was built just in time
for the millennium celebrations in late 1999 This
large, two-story concrete building has 20 rooms
with bath and TV at FS45/55 fan/air conditioned
for up to three people. Communal cooking fa-
cilities are provided. Local contract workers
sometimes book rooms here on the weekends to
watch the football games on TV and have fun, so
be prepared.
Under US$25 South
Kris Backplace (P.O. Box 22, Waiyevo; tel.
880-246, fax 880-072), between Soqulu Plan-
tation and Susie's Plantation in southern Taveuni,
is on a beautiful stretch of rocky coastline with
crystal clear snorkeling waters. You can count on
a good place to pitch your tent (F$7 for the first
person in the tent and F$4 for the second). The
two thatched two-bed bure are F$35 double,
and there's also a five-bed dormitory bure at
F$15 pp. The friendly managers will allow you to
pick fruit at no cost from their plantation, and a
three-meal deal is F$25 or you can cook your
own. Scuba diving is available.
Susie's Plantation Resort (P.O. Box 69,
Waiyevo; tel. 880-125 or 880-531), also known as
Nomui Lala, just north of Vuna Point at the south
end of Taveuni, offers peace and quiet amid pic-
turesque rustic surroundings, at the right price.
The 10 rooms in the plantation house are F$30/40
single/double with shared bath, or FS50/55 with
private bath. Two simple seaside bure rent for
F$55 double, and a larger family bure costs F$70.
A place in the six-bed dorm is F$15. and camping
is F$10 pp (tolerated but not encouraged). You
can cook your own food (a well-stocked grocery
store is at Vatuwiri Farm, a 10-minute walk south).
Otherwise meals are available in the restaurant
(F$30 meal Dlan), housed in the oldest missionary
building on the island (nonguests welcome). Elec-
tricity is available only during the dinner hours.
This atmospheric resort right on the ocean has its
own resident diving instructor, who leads daily
trips to the Great White Wall and Rainbow Reef.
The PADI scuba certification course offers a great
opportunity to learn how to dive, but even if you're
not a diver, you'll enjoy the superb snorkeling
right off their rocky beach or at nearby Namoli
Beach (better at low tide, as the current picks up
appreciably when the tide comes in). Horseback
riding can be arranged. One reader thought
Susie's overpriced.
Vuna Lagoon Lodge (Adi Salote Samanunu,
P.O. Box 55, Waiyevo; tel. 880-627), on the Vuna
Lagoon near Vuna village, a kilometer south of
Vatuwiri Farm, has rooms at FS30 double with
shared bath or FS50 with private bath. Dorm beds
Copyrighted material
TAVEUNI 305
cost F$1 5. Cooking facilities are provided or you
can order meals. Since it's adjacent to the vil-
lage, you should ask if you'll need to bring a bun-
dle of kava roots for the chief when booking.
USS25-50
Tuvununu Paradise Garden Inn (do Postal
Agency, Matei; tel. 880-465), 700 meters east of
Naselesele village in northern Taveuni, offers
eight rooms in a large wooden building over-
looking Viubani Island at F$55/75 single/dou-
ble, or F$24 pp in the backpacker dorm. Camp-
ing is F$9 pp. The tidal flat in front of the inn is
beautiful but not ideal for swimming. At last report
the Tuvununu was closed.
The Petersen family runs the Tovu Tovu Re-
sort (tel. 880-560, fax 880-722) at Matei just
east of Bhula Bhai & Sons Supermarket. It's
across the road from a rocky beach with murky
water, and guests often walk the two km to
Prince Charles Beach to swim. The two front
bure capable of sleeping three are self-catering
at F$75 single or double. Just behind are an-
other two bure with private bath but no cooking at
FS50/65, and up the hill is a large dormitory bure
with a communal kitchen at F$1 5 pp. A budget
bure with shared bath is F$25 double. Camp-
ing is not allowed. The tin roofs are covered with
thatch to keep them cool. The three-meal plan is
F$35 pp, and the restaurant terrace is a nice
place to sit and socialize.
Little Dolphin (tel. 880-130). opposite Bhula
Bhai & Sons Supermarket, less than a kilometer
east of the airport, has an airy, two-story cot-
tage with cooking facilities called the "treehouse."
At F$75 a night it's good value. Little Dolphin is
run by an Australian named Scott who is a mine
of information. He has a three-person outrigger
canoe that he rents to guests at F$25 a day.
Several expatriate residents of the airport area
have built nice little bungalows next to their
homes or fixed up rooms in their personal resi-
dences that they rent to tourists. For instance,
Audrey of Audrey's Cafe (tel. 880-039), half a
km east of the airport, has a deluxe cottage with
tile floors at F$100 (children not admitted)—
readers have recommended it. Sere-ni-lka. op-
posite Mrs. Lai's Curry Place, is a three-bed-
room house right on the coast at F$200/1 ,000 a
night/week including a kitchen and fridge. It's
owned by Fred Gartely of Hawaii, and the Sun
Air agent at the airport. Dolores Porter (tel. 880-
299), handles bookings. Dolores has a place of
her own two houses west known as Loma lag i
Beachfront Cottage (no sign), right opposite
Niranjan s Budget Accommodation. The two
rooms are F$1 00 double, and Dolores is partic-
ular about who she accepts. A few more places
like this exist (including one which asked not to
be included in this handbook).
Bibi's Hideaway (P.O. Box 80, Waiyevo; tel.
880-443), about 600 meters south of the airport,
has something of the gracious atmosphere of
the neighboring properties without the sky-high
prices. A bed in a two-bed room in a cottage is
F$30 pp, while a larger family unit is F$70. The
film crew from Return to the Blue Lagoon stayed
here for three months, and with the extra in-
come the owners built a deluxe honeymoon bure
with a picture window, which is F$80. All three
units have access to cooking facilities and fridge,
and you can pick fruit off their trees for free.
Bibi's is located on lush, spacious grounds, and
James, Victor, and Agnes Bibi will make you
feel right at home. It's an excellent medium-
priced choice it you oon t mmo being a bit away
from the beach.
Karin's Garden (tel. 880-51 1 ), almost oppo-
site Bibi's Hideaway 650 meters south of the
airport, overlooks the same coast as the over-
priced Taveuni Island Resort next door. Their
two screened bungalows with fan are FS95. It's
nice but the beds are a bit soft. You can cook and
there's a restaurant on the premises.
USS50-100
The Garden Island Resort (P.O. Box 1 , Waiye-
vo; tel. 880-286. fax 880-288) is by the sea at
Waiyevo, three km south of Naqara. Formerly
known as the Castaway, this was Taveuni's pre-
mier (and only) hotel when it was built by the
Travelodge chain in the 1960s. In 1996 the
scuba operator Aqua Trek USA purchased the
property and upgraded the facilities. The 30 a/c
rooms in an attractive two-story building are
F$146/184/218 single/double/triple, or F$33 pp
in the two four-bed dorms. The buffet meal plan
is F$80 pp, and eating by the pool is fun (dinner
reservations before 1700 required). There's no
beach, but the Garden Island offers a restau-
rant, bar, evening entertainment, swimming pool,
excursions, and water sports. Snorkeling trips
Copyrighted material
306 TAVEUNI
(F$20) are arranged to Korolevu Island at 1000
and 1400, and a large dive shop is on the
premises. Ask about guided hikes to the Ku-
lanawai Waterfalls, a great half-day trip (F$25).
The Garden Island is a nice place to hang out if
you like large hotels.
The Vatuwiri Farm Resort (c/o Postal
Agency, Vuna; tel. 880-316) at Vuna Point, a
kilometer south of Susie's Plantation, offers the
possibility of staying on an authentic working
farm established in 1871 by James Valentine
Tarte. The family's history was the subject of a
1988 novel by Daryl Tarte. Today the Tartes
produce beef, vanilla, and copra, and rent three
small cottages to tourists for F$120 double a
night. Three good meals are F$35 pp extra. The
rocky coast here is fine for snorkeling, and horse-
back riding is available. The Tarte family is con-
genial, and this is perhaps your best chance to
stay on a real working farm in Fiji.
US$150 and up
Directly opposite the airport terminal is the Gar-
den of Eden Villa Peter Madden (tel. 880-252),
a large three-bedroom house capable of ac-
commodating six people at F$700 a night in-
cluding meals (minimum stay one week). Set
on a bluff above the sea, this place is a favorite
retreat of Fiji's president and other VI Ps. Book
through Destination World listed herein in Getting
There. Some deluxe cottages on Matei Point
nearby rent for F$225 a day and up— expen-
sive but outstanding.
About 600 meters south of the airport are
two of Taveuni's most exclusive properties. Mar-
avu Plantation Resort (c/o Postal Agency,
Matei; tel. 880-555, fax 880-600) is a village-
style resort on a real 20-hectare copra-making
plantation. It's run by a young German couple,
Angela and Jochen Kiess, who've worked hard
to make their operation eco-friendly. The at-
mosphere is quiet with good service from an
attentive staff. Maravu offers 10 comfortable
bure with ceiling fans from FS475/720/880 sin-
gle/double/triple, but including memorable
meals, transfers, tax, horseback riding, bicy-
cles, and some other activities. This is a good
choice for families as up to two children under 14
can stay free, paying only for their meals
(F$50-75 per day per child). The landscaped
grounds are safe for kids, there's an elegant
bar, spa, and swimming pool for adults, and the
weekly meke is fun for all.
Almost across the street from Maravu Plan-
tation is the deluxe Taveuni Island Resort (Ric
and Do Cammick, c/o Postal Agency, Matei; tel.
880-441 , fax 880-466), formerly known as Dive
Taveuni and before that Ric's Place. It's patron-
ized by an eclectic mix of scuba divers, anglers,
and honeymooners who arrive on prepaid pack-
ages. The six deluxe bure are FS845/1 , 1 75 sin-
gle/double, including meals and transfers. In ad-
dition, the cliff-top honeymoon bure is F$1 ,390
double all inclusive. No alcohol is sold here, so
bring your own. The open terrace dining area
and the swimming pool added in 1 997 merges
scenically with the sea on the horizon. Be aware
that only registered house guests are welcome
on the property. This resort is closed in February
and March.
OTHER PRACTICALITIES
Food
Several stalls in the fish market opposite the
Garden Island Resort serve cheap picnic table
meals. Frank Fong's Waci-Pokee Restaurant
(tel. 880-382; Mon.-Sat. 0730-1800), below the
First Light Inn in Waiyevo, serves tasty Chinese
and local meals for around F$5. You can eat in
the thatched Cannibal Cafe directly behind the
Waci-Pokee. A piece of chocolate cake is under
a dollar but their slogan is "we'd love to have
you for dinner." Order at the restaurant.
Kumar's Restaurant (Mon.-Sat. 0700-1800),
opposite Kaba's Motel & Guest House at
Naqara, is the cheapest regular restaurant on
the island with curries in the F$4 range. Stick
to the Indian dishes.
The snack bar at Matei Airport (open only at
flight times) sells excellent curry rotis for F$1 .50.
They're kept under the counter, so ask. A coffee
is FS0.60.
Mrs. Lai's Curry Place (tel. 880-705), just
east of the airport, serves spicy takeaway Indian
meals at F$10 a serve. You must carry the food
l_ _ _ I . A . « . , _. Ua4mI mm mm 4mWImm M»M M^Ja/J k*MMM
oack to your notei as no laoies are provioea nere.
Audrey's Island Cafe & Pastries (tel. 880-
039; daily 1000-1800). run by a charming Amer-
ican woman at Matei, serves afternoon tea to
guests who also enjoy the great view from her
Copyrighted material
TAVEUNI 307
terrace, and Audrey has various homemade
goodies to take away.
The Vunibokoi Restaurant (tel. 880-560).
at the Tovu Tovu Resort east of Bhula Bhai &
Sons Supermarket at Matei, has a nice terrace
where nonguests can order upscale meals pre-
pared by Mareta, once the star chef at a small
American-run resort. The Friday night lovo buffet
here is F$16.50.
Groceries
Those staying on the northern part of the island
will appreciate the well-stocked Bhula Bhai &
Sons Supermarket (tel. 880-369) at the Matei
Postal Agency between the airport and Nase-
lesele village. A Tele Card phone is outside the
store and a hairdresser is adjacent. Bhula Bhai &
Sons is closed on Sunday, but a smaller Indian
store 100 meters east and across the road will
sell to you through the side window that day.
The variety of goods available at Kaba's Su-
permarket (tel. 880-088) in Naqara is surprising,
and a cluster of other small shops is adjacent.
The Morris Hedstrom supermarket (tel. 880-
053) is a bit north in Somosomo. Small grocery
stores also exist at Wairiki and Waiyevo. The
only well-stocked grocery store in southern Tave-
uni is at Vatuwiri Farm, a kilometer south of
Susie's Plantation.
Entertainment
The 180 Meridian Cinema at Wairiki shows main-
ly action and horror films at 1930 on weekends.
The Taveuni Country Club (tel. 880-133),
next to the police station up the hill at Waiyevo, is
a safe, local drinking place. It's open Wednes-
day-Saturday 1400-2200 only.
The only tourist-oriented nightlife on Taveuni
is what's offered at the Garden Island Resort
(tel. 880-286), which stages a meke and lovo
at 1800 (F$38 pp), but only when enough paying
guests are present. Maravu Plantation Resort
(tel. 880-555) also offers a weekly meke with
dinner (F$40). It's a wonderful splurge, but you
must reserve in the afternoon.
Shopping
Ross Handicrafts (tel. 309-872), below the First
Light Inn in Waiyevo, has a typical selection of Fi-
jian handicrafts.
Services
Traveler's checks can be changed at the Colonial
National Bank (Mon.-Thurs. 0930-1500, Fri.
0930-1600) in Naqara. They don't give cash
advances on credit cards.
Card phones are at Matei Airport, at Bhula
Bhai & Sons Supermarket in Matei, at Krishna
Brothers Store in Naqara, and at the fish market
in Waiyevo.
The island's hospital (tel. 880-444) at Waiye-
vo received a FS2.4 million upgrade in 2000.
TRANSPORTATION
Getting There
Matei Airstrip at the north tip of Taveuni is ser-
viced twice daily by Air Fiji (tel. 880-062) from
Suva (F$1 14) and Savusavu (F$59), and by
Sun Air (tel. 880-461) from Nadi (three a day,
F$159), Suva (daily, F$114), and Savusavu
(twice daily, F$59). Sun Air also arrives from
Labasa (F$59) three times a week. Flights
to/from Taveuni are often heavily booked, so re-
confirm to avoid being bumped. You get superb
views of Taveuni from the plane: sit on the right
side going up, the left side coming back. Krishna
Brothers (tel. 880-302) in Naqara is the agent
for Air Fiji. Book Sun Air flights through their air-
port office or the Garden Island Hotel.
Consort Shipping operates the twice week-
ly Spirit of Free Enterprise service from Taveuni
to Suva via Koro and Savusavu (23 hours,
FS40/80 deck/cabin). Taveuni to Savusavu is
F$20. This ferry departs Taveuni southbound
Monday and Thursday at noon, having left Suva
northbound Tuesday and Saturday at 1800. The
Consort agent is the First Light Inn (tel. 880-
339) in Waiyevo, and you'll get a F$5 discount by
purchasing your ticket there.
The Beachcomber Cruises car ferry Adi
Savusavu departs Taveuni for Savusavu and
Suva Wednesday and Friday at noon. It takes
five hours to reach Savusavu, and after a three-
hour stop continues to Suva, where it arrives at
Thursday and Saturday morning (FS47/55 econ-
omy/first class). The agent is Ian Simpson (tel.
880-187 or 880-261) at the fish market oppo-
site the Garden Island Resort (F$5 discount on
advance ticket sales here).
Copyrighted material
308 TAVEUNi
Patterson Brothers operates the barge
Yaubula between Taveuni and Natuvu at Buca
Bay on Vanua Levu, leaving Taveuni Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday at 0900 (two hours,
F$9), leaving Natuvu at 1 100. They also carry
cars and vans for F$65. Through boat/bus tickets
with a bus connection at Natuvu are available to
Savusavu (four hours, F$15) and Labasa (six
hours, F$19). The Patterson Brothers agent is
Frank Fong (tel. 880-382) at the Waci-Pokee
Restaurant below the First Light Inn in Waiyevo.
Try to buy your combined boat/bus ticket from
Frank a day before, otherwise get one on the
ferry itself as you board (arrive an hour before de-
parture and be fast at holiday times as the 60-
seater bus does fill up, unlike the 100-passenger
ferry which always has space available). Cof-
fee and snacks are sold aboard the barge.
The small passenger boat Grace departs
Taveuni for Natuvu Monday-Friday at 0900 (two
hours, F$7). If you miss the bus connection to
Savusavu (F$3.80), you'll have to wait around at
Buca Bay all day for another bus (Public buses
run from Natuvu to Savusavu only in the early
morning and at 1600). If no bus is around, you
should be able to find a carrier, but expect a
rough trip. The Grace also does trips to Rabi
(F$7 pp) whenever there's cargo. Information
on the Grace is available from Mr. Latchman
Prasad (tel. 880-134), who lives opposite Kaba's
Supermarket in Naqara.
If you arrive by boat at Taveuni, you could
disembark at any one of three places. Some
small boats from Vanua Levu transfer their pas-
sengers to the beach at Waiyevo by outboard.
The large ferries from Suva tie up at a wharf a
kilometer north of Waiyevo. There's another
wharf called the "Korean Wharf' at Lovonivonu
village, a kilometer north again, midway between
Waiyevo and Naqara. This wharf is usually used
by the Vanua Levu ferries and other smaller
cargo boats.
Getting Around
Pacific Transport (tel. 880-278) buses leave
Waiyevo and Naqara northbound to Bouma
(F$2) Monday-Saturday at 0800, 1130, and
1700; southbound to Vuna (FS2.65) they leave at
0800, 1200. and 1600. The northbound 0800
bus turns around at Bouma, but the 1 130 and
1600 buses carry on to Lavena (F$3.05). Both of
the 1600 buses stop and spend the night at their
turn-around points, Lavena and Navakawau,
heading back to Naqara the next morning at
0600 (at 0800 on Sunday). Sunday service is
very infrequent, although there are buses to
Bouma and Vuna at 1600. Check the current
schedule carefully as soon as you arrive and
beware of buses leaving a bit early. The buses
begin their journeys at the Pacific Transport
garage at Naqara, but they all first head south to
Waiyevo hospital to pick up passengers.
une ot I aveuni s biggest drawbacks is tne
extremely dusty/muddy road up the northwest
coast, which makes it very unpleasant to walk
anywhere between Wairiki and the airport when
there's a lot of fast traffic passing. This com-
bined with rather expensive taxi fares and spo-
radic buses make getting around rather incon-
venient. The road is currently being upgraded, so
things could change. Taveuni's minibus taxis
only operate on a charter basis and don't run
along set routes picking up passengers at fixed
rates. The taxi fare from the wharf to Naqara is
F$3; from the airport to Naqara it will be F$12. In
general, the taxi fare will be about 10 times the
corresponding bus fare. Otherwise, save money
by using the buses for long rides and taxis for
shorter hops.
You could hire a minibus taxi and driver for the
day. Write out a list of everything you want to
see, then negotiate a price with a driver. The
Garden Island Resort minibus is F$80 to Bouma
or F$100 to Lavena for up to four people (five
persons and up is FS20 pp). Budget Rent-a-
Car (tel. 880-291 ) at the BP service station op-
posite Kaba's Motel in Naqara rents Suzuki jeeps
at FS125 a day all included. They're also sup-
posed to have compact cars at F$70, but they're
often "all out."
When enough tourists are on the island, Mr.
Nand Lai (tel. 880-705) operates a regular shut-
tle service to Bouma National Heritage Park at
F$10/15 pp round-trip from Matei to
Bouma/Lavena. The shuttles should leave Matei
at 0900. 1200. and 1400, but it all depends on
demand. Call him up. or ask at Mrs. Lai's Curry
Place just east of Niranjan's Budget Accommo-
dation in Matei. Nand's 15-seater van is available
for private hire anytime.
Copyrighted material
TAVEUNI 309
OFFSHORE ISLANDS
Qamea Island
Qamea ("ngga-ME-a") Island, just three km east
of Taveuni, is the 1 2th-largest island in Fiji. It's 1 0
km long with lots of lovely bays, lush green hills,
and secluded white-sand beaches. Land crabs
(lairo) are gathered in abundance here during
their migration to the sea at the beginning of the
breeding season in late November or early De-
cember. The bird life is also rich, due to the ab-
sence of the mongoose. Outboards from vil-
lages on Qamea land near Navakacoa village on
the northeast side of Taveuni. The best time to
try for a ride over is Thursday or Friday after-
noons. Vatusogosogo, one of six villages on
Qamea, is inhabited by descendants of black-
birded Solomon islanders.
Backpackers can stay on Qamea with Stan
Mitchell, who lives at Niubavu village on the
north shore opposite Matangi Island. To stay
in one of the six bure is F$1 1 , or camp for F$8.
The toilet and shower are in Stan's house. If
you brought groceries from Taveuni you can
cook for yourself, otherwise your hosts will feed
you. Set on a small bay just back from the
beach, it's a lovely spot and the nearby Fijian vil-
lages can be visited. It's even possible to
arrange scuba diving. Speedboat transfers to
Qamea are F$50 per trip (round-trip). To
arrange a stay, ask for Byron Fisher or Cyril
Mitchell who work in the Air Fiji office (tel. 880-
062) at Matei Airport.
The Qamea Beach Resort (c/o Postal
Agency, Matei; tel. 880-220, fax 880-092), on
the west side of Qamea, has 12 thatched bure at
F$1 ,01 5/1 ,240/1 ,465 single/double/triple, and
one split-level honeymoon villa at F$1 .575 dou-
ble (children under 13 not admitted). Meals, boat
transfers, and tax are included. All units have a
ceiling fan, minibar. and hammock-equipped
deck. Meals are served in a tall central dining
room and lounge designed like a burekalou (tem-
ple). Activities such as snorkeling, sailing, wind-
surfing, village tours, and hiking are included in
the basic price, but fishing and scuba diving are
extra. The snorkeling right off Qamea's 400 me-
ters of fine white sands is superb and there's
also a freshwater swimming pool.
Matangi Island
Matangi is a tiny horseshoe-shaped volcanic is-
land just north of Qamea, its sunken crater form-
ing a lovely palm-fringed bay. The island is pri-
vately owned by the Douglas family, which has
been producing copra on Matangi for five gen-
erations and still does. In 1988 they diversified
into the hotel business.
Matangi Island Resort (Noel Douglas, P.O.
Box 83, Waiyevo; tel. 880-260 or 880-776, fax
880-274), 10 km northeast of Taveuni, markets
itself as a honeymoon destination by advertising
in the U.S. bridal magazines. It tries to do the
same as far as scuba diving goes, but the prime
dive sites in the Somosomo Strait are too far
away to be visited from this resort. The snorkel-
ing here is fine. Matangi's three treehouse bure
are intended for the recently wed (F$976 double).
Other guests are accommodated in the neat
thatched bure scattered among the coconut
palms below Matangi's high jungly interior. The
seven deluxe bure are FS772 double, while the
two standards and one duplex are F$556. Prices
include meals, snacks, laundry, and tax, but re-
turn boat transfers from Taveuni are F$80 pp
extra. Reader Louise Spergel sent us this:
We stayed in one of the deluxe bure — not a
treehouse. The round room was attractively
decorated and had a half wall up the middle
dividing the sleeping area from the sitting
area. The bed had very romantic looking mos-
quito netting. However, for that price, the bed
shoulAn t have been so saggy- The bathroom
was small and we had hot water for showering
most days. Every room comes with a giant
umbrella since it rains a lot. The meals at
Matangi were mediocre. We were very un-
happy with the dive shop. Most of the dive
sites t/jey took us to weren V very good. Activi-
ties other tJjan diving were randomly scftcduled
and canceled, and people weren V always told.
Laucala Island
Laucala Island, which shares a barrier reef with
Qamea, was depopulated and sold to Euro-
peans in the mid-1 9th century by the chief of
Taveuni, after the inhabitants sided with Tongan
Copyrighted material
310 TAVEUNI
chief Enele Ma'afu in a local war. Today it's
owned by Steven Forbes, son of the late multi-
millionaire businessman and New York pub-
lisher Malcolm Forbes, who is buried on the is-
land. In 1972 Malcolm Forbes bought 12-
square-km Laucala from the Australian compa-
ny Morris Hedstrom for US$1 million. He then
spent additional millions on an airstrip, wharf,
and roads, and on replacing the thatched bum of
the 300 Fijian inhabitants with 40 red-roofed
houses with electricity and indoor plumbing.
Forbes's former private residence stands atop a
hill overlooking the native village, the inhabi-
tants of which make copra.
In 1984, six years prior to his death in 1990,
Forbes opened his island to affluent tourists who
now stay in seven bure, each with living room,
bar, and kitchen. The housekeepers prepare
guests' breakfasts in their cottages; other meals
can be taken in the plantation house, in Forbes's
house, at the beachside barbecue area, or as a
picnic anywhere on the island. The price is
F$1 ,200 pp per night (three-night minimum stay),
including all meals, "a reasonable supply" of
liquor, sports, scuba diving, and deep-sea fishing.
The charter flight from Nadi to Laucala Island
is F$700 pp round-trip. The resident general
manager of Fiji Forbes Inc. (P.O. Box 41,
Waiyevo; tel. 880-077, fax 880-099) is the only
chief on Laucala. We've heard good things about
this resort from people in a position to know.
(During the turbulence following the Speight
coup attempt in mid 2000. Laucala Island was in-
vaded by thugs with scores to settle, and the
resort managers were beaten and held 24 hours.
Peace has now returned to the island.)
triton shell
THE LAU GROUP 311
THE LAU GROUP
Lau is by far the most remote part of Fiji, its 57 six islands on a single trip. No banks are to be
islands scattered over a vast area of ocean be- found in Lau and it's important to bring suffi-
tween Viti Levu and Tonga. Roughly half of cient Fijian currency,
them are inhabited. Though all are relatively
small, they vary from volcanic islands to uplifted
atolls to some combination of the two. Tongan
influence has always been strong in Lau, and
due to Polynesian mixing the people have a
somewhat lighter skin color than other Fijians.
The westward migrations continue today: over
40,000 Lauans live on Viti Levu and under
13,000 on their home islands. Historically the
chiefs of Lau have always had a political influ-
ence on Fiji far out of proportion to their eco-
nomic or geographical importance.
Vanua Balavu (52 square km) and Lakeba
(54 square km) are the largest and most im-
portant islands of the group. These are also
the only islands with organized accommoda-
tions, and Vanua Balavu is the more rewarding
of the two. Once accessible only after a long sea
voyage on infrequent copra-collecting ships,
four islands in Lau— Lakeba, Vanua Balavu,
Moala. and Cicia — now have regular air ser-
vice from Suva. Occasional private ships also
circulate through Lau, usually calling at five or
THE LAU
GROUP
qCEAN
312 THE LAU GROUP
Few of these islands are prepared for
tourism, so it really helps to know someone.
But contrary to what is written in some guide-
books, individual tourists do not require a spe-
cial permit or invitation to visit Lau — you just
get on a plane and go. (Cruising yachties do
need a permit.) Since the best selection of
places to stay is on Vanua Balavu, that's the
logical place to head first. Words like pristine,
untouched, and idyllic all seem to have been in-
vented for Lau, and the unconditional friendli-
ness of the local people is renowned. This is
one area where you don't need to worry about
bumping into a McDonald's!
NORTHERN LAU
VANUA BALAVU
The name means the "long land." The southern
portion of this unusual, seahorse-shaped island
is mostly volcanic, while the north is uplifted
coral. This unspoiled environment of palm-fringed
beaches backed by long grassy hillsides and
sheer limestone cliffs is a wonderful area to ex-
plore. Varied vistas and scenic views are on all
sides. To the east is a 1 30-km barrier reef en-
closing a 37 by 16 km lagoon. The Bay of Is-
lands at the northwest end of Vanua Balavu is a
recognized hurricane shelter. The villages of
Vanua Balavu are impeccably clean, the grass
cut and manicured. Large mats are made on
the island and strips of pandanus can be seen
drying before many of the houses.
In 1840 Commodore Wilkes of the U.S. Ex-
ploring Expedition named Vanua Balavu and its
adjacent islands enclosed by the same barrier
reef the Exploring Isles. In the days of sail, Lo-
maloma, the largest settlement, was an impor-
tant Pacific port. The early trading company Hen-
nings Brothers had its headquarters here. The
great Tongan warlord Enele Ma'afu conquered
northern Lau from the chiefs of Vanua Levu in
1 855 and made Lomaloma the base for his bid to
dominate Fiji. A small monument flanked by two
cannons on the waterfront near the wharf recalls
the event. Fiji's first public botanical garden was
laid out here over a century ago, but nothing re-
mains of it. History has passed Lomaloma by.
Today it's only a big sleepy village with a hospital
and a couple of general stores. Some 400 Ton-
gans live in Sawana, the south portion of Loma-
loma village, and many of the houses have the
round ends characteristic of Lau. Fiji's first prime
minister and later president, Ratu Sir Kamisese
Mara, was bom in Sawana.
Sights
Copra is the main export and there's a small co-
conut oil mill at Lomaloma. A road runs inland
from Lomaloma, up and across the island to
Dakuilomaloma. From the small communica-
tions station on a grassy hilltop midway there's
an excellent view.
Follow the road south from Lomaloma three
km to Narocivo village, then continue two km be-
yond to the narrow passage separating Vanua
Balavu and Malata islands. At low tide you can
easily wade across to Namalata village. Alterna-
tively, work your way around to the west side of
VANUA BALAVU
NORTHERN LAU 313
Vanua Balavu, where there are isolated tropical
beaches. There's good snorkeling in this passage.
A guide can show you hot springs and burial
caves among the high limestone outcrops be-
tween Narocivo and Namalata. This can be eas-
ily arranged at Nakama, the tiny collection of
houses closest to the cliffs, upon payment of a
nominal fee. Small bats inhabit some of the caves.
Rent a boat to take you over to the Raviravi
Lagoon on Susui Island, the favorite picnic spot
near Lomaloma for the locals. The beach and
snorkeling are good, and spelunkers can check
out the cave where the god of shells resides.
Munia Island is a privately owned coconut plan-
tation where paying guests are accommodated
in two bure.
Events
A most unusual event occurs annually at Ma-
somo Bay, west of Mavana village, usually
around Christmas. For a couple of days the Ma-
vana villagers, clad only in skirts of drauniqai
leaves, enter the waters and stir up the muddy
bottom by swimming around clutching logs. No
one understands exactly why, and magic is
thought to be involved, but this activity stuns the
yawa, or mullet fish, that inhabit the bay, ren-
dering them easy prey for waiting spears. Peni.
the bete (priest) of Mavana, controls the ritual. No
photos are allowed. A Fijian legend tells how
the yawa were originally brought to Masomo by
a Tongan princess.
Accommodations
Moana's Guesthouse (P.O. Box 1 1 , Lomaloma;
tel. 895-006) in Sawana village is run by Tevita
and Carolyn Fotofili, with the help of daughter
Moana. It's F$44 pp including all meals and
snacks to share an oval-ended Tongan-style
house with a three-bedded dorm and double
room. Another room is available in an adjacent
house. In 2000 the Fotofilis built three tradition-
al-style Tongan bure on the beach about a kilo-
meter away (FS65/1 10 single/double all inclu-
sive). Children under 12 are half price. A boat is
for hire for use on trips around Vanua Balavu.
If Moana's is full, try Mr. Poasa Delailomaloma
(tel. 895-060) and his brother Laveti's guest
house in the middle of Lomaloma village, a short
walk away. Both Poasa's and Moana's make
perfect bases from which to explore the island,
and you get a feel for village life while retaining a
degree of privacy.
You can also stay at Joe and Helene Tuwai's
Nawanawa Estate (P.O. Box 20, Lomaloma;
tel. 116-833), a kilometer from Daliconi village
near the airport on the northwest side of the is-
land. They meet all flights (transfers FS25 pp
round-trip) and can accommodate 10 persons in
their own home on the estate. In the unlikely
event that they were full, something else could be
arranged. The Tuwais charge F$50/90 sin-
gle/double including meals (children under 10
F$30). You'll share their attractive colonial-style
home with solar electricity (no generator noise).
Moana's Guesthouse
314 THE LAU GROUP
Aside from hiking, snorkeling, kayaking (F$5 an
hour), and fishing, you can ask to be dropped on
a deserted island for a small charge. If you have
a tent, you can camp all by yourself there at
F$10 a day for two without food. Boat trips to
the pristine Bay of Islands for caving and snor-
keling are also possible (F$90 for two people). Is-
land tours by road are FS60 for three people.
All three places just mentioned accept cash only
(take insect repellent and sunscreen too). You
could also take a sevusevu of kava roots for the
village elders, if you so desired.
In 1994 Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara, paramount
chief of the Lau Group, opened the Lomaloma
Resort (P.O. Box 55, Lomaloma; tel. 895-091,
fax 895-092) on tadpole-sized Yanuyanu Island
just off Lomaloma. The six round-ended bure
(or fale) furnished in the traditional style catered
mostly to upmarket scuba divers. The Lomaloma
Resort has been closed for several years and it's
uncertain if it will ever reopen.
Getting There
Air Fiji flies to Vanua Balavu three times a week
from Suva (F$1 1 3). The flights are heavily
booked, so reserve your return journey before
leaving Suva. A bus runs from the airstrip to Lo-
maloma. After checking in at the airstrip for de-
parture you'll probably have time to scramble
up the nearby hill for a good view of the island.
Boat service from Suva on the Tunatuki II is only
every two weeks (F$77/1 10 deck/cabin).
Several carriers a day run from Lomaloma north
to Mualevu, and some continue on to Mavana.
OTHER ISLANDS OF NORTHERN LAU
After setting himself up at Lomaloma on Vanua
Balavu in 1855. Chief Ma'afu encouraged the
establishment of European copra and cotton
plantations, and several islands are freehold
land to this day. Kanacea, to the west of Vanua
Balavu, was sold to a European by the Tui
Cakau in 1 863, and the Kanacea people now
reside on Taveuni. Mago (20 square km), a
copra estate formerly owned by English planter
Jim Barron, was purchased by the Tokyu Cor-
poration of Japan in 1985 for F$6 million.
Naitauba is a circular island about 186 me-
ters high with high cliffs on the north coast.
Originally owned by Hennings Brothers, in 1 983
the island was purchased from TV star Ray-
mond Burr by the California spiritual group Jo-
hannine Daist Communion for US$2.1 million.
Johannine Daist holds four-to-eight-week med-
itation retreats on Naitauba for longtime mem-
bers of the communion. The communion's
founder and teacher, Baba Da Free John, the
former Franklin Albert Jones, who attained en-
lightenment in Hollywood in 1 970, resides on
the island.
There's a single Fijian village and a gorgeous
white-sand beach on Yacata Island. Right next
to Yacata and sharing the same lagoon is 260-
hectare Kaimbu Island, which was owned by
the Rosa family from 1872 to 1969. when it was
purchased by fiberglass millionaires Margie and
Jay Johnson. In 1987 the Johnsons opened a
small luxury resort on the island, and although
they sold Kaimbu in 1996, their son Scott stayed
on as manager together with wife Sally of the
Taveuni Cammick clan. Kaimbu Island Resort
(Kaimbu Island Postal Agency; tel. 880-333, fax
880-334) consists of only three spacious oc-
tagonal guest cottages renting at FS2.250 per
couple per night (minimum stay seven nights). A
private party of six can hire the entire island at
FS5.600 a day (children are only accommodat-
ed on entire island bookings). The price includes
gourmet meals, drinks, snorkeling, sailing, wind-
CICIA
SOUTHERN LAU 315
surfing, sportfishing, scuba diving, and just about
anything else you desire (except a swimming
pool). They cater to people who want personal-
ized service and total privacy. The chartered
flight from Suva or Taveuni to Kaimbu's central
airstrip is another F$2,225 per couple round-
trip. Add 1 0 percent tax to all rates. Bookings are
handled by Kaimbu Island Associates (P.O.
Box 10392, Newport Beach, CA 92658, U.S.A.;
tel. 800/473-0332, fax 949/644-5773; email:
kaimbu@earthlink.net).
Vatu Vara to the south, with its soaring interior
plateau, golden beaches, and azure lagoon, is
privately owned and unoccupied much of the
time. The circular, 314-meter-high central lime-
stone terrace, which makes the island look like a
hat when viewed from the sea, gives it its other
name, Hat Island. There is reputed to be buried
treasure on Vatu Vara.
Katafaga to the southeast of Vanua Balavu
was at one time owned by Harold Gatty, the fa-
mous Australian aviator who founded Fiji Air-
ways (later Air Pacific) in 1951 .
Clcia, between Northern and Southern Lau,
receives Air Fiji flights from Suva (F$105) once a
week. Five Fijian villages are found on Cicia,
and much of the 34-square-km island is cov-
ered by coconut plantations. Fiji's only black-
and-white Australian magpies have been intro-
duced to Cicia and Taveuni.
Wallagi Lala. northernmost of the Lau Group,
is a coral atoll bearing a lighthouse, which beck-
ons to ships entering Nanuku Passage, the
northwest gateway to Fiji.
SOUTHERN LAU
LAKEBA
Lakeba is a rounded volcanic island reaching
215 meters in elevation. The fertile red soils of
the rolling interior hills have been planted with
pine, but the low coastal plain, with eight vil-
lages and all the people, is covered with co-
conuts. To the east is a wide lagoon enclosed
by a barrier reef. In the olden days, the popu-
lation lived on Delai Kedekede, an interior hilltop
well suited for defense.
The original capital of Lakeba was Nasaqalau
on the north coast, and the present inhabitants
of Nasaqalau retain strong Tongan influence.
When the Nayau clan conquered the island,
their paramount chief, the Tui Nayau, became
ruler of all of Southern Lau from his seat at
Tubou. During the 1970s and 1980s Ratu Sir
Kamisese Mara, the present Tui Nayau, served
as prime minister of Fiji.
Sights
A 29-km road runs all the way around Lakeba.
From the Catholic church you get a good view of
Tubou, an attractive village and one of the
largest in Fiji, with a hospital, wharf, several
stores, and the Lau provincial headquarters.
Tubou was originally situated at Korovusa just in-
land, where the foundations of former houses
can still be seen. Farther inland on the same
road is the forestry station and a nursery.
The Tongan chief Enele Ma'afu (died 1881) is
buried on a stepped platform behind the Provin-
cial Office near Tubou's wharf. In 1 847 Ma'afu ar-
rived in Fiji with a small Tongan army ostensibly
to advance the spread of Christianity, and by
1 855 he dominated eastern Fiji from his base
at Vanua Balavu. In 1869 Ma'afu united the
group into the Lau Confederation and took the
title Tui Lau. Two years later he accepted the
supremacy of Cakobau's Kingdom of Fiji, and
in 1874 he signed the cession to Britain. Along-
side Ma'afu is the grave of Ratu Sir Lala Sukuna
(1888-1958), an important figure in the devel-
opment of indigenous Fijian self-government.
David Cargill and William Cross, the first
Metnodist missionaries to arrive in hji, lanoea on
the beach just opposite the burial place on Oc-
tober 12, 1835. Here they invented the present
system of written Fijian.
Coconut Factory
Four km west of Tubou is the coir (husk fiber)
and coconut oil factory of the Lakeba Cooper-
ative Association at Wainiyabia. Truckloads of
coconuts are brought in and dehusked by hand.
The meat is then removed and sent to the copra
driers. Coconut oil is pressed from the resulting
copra and exported in drums. The dry pulp re-
Copyrighted material
316 THE LAU GROUP
maining after the extraction is bagged and sold
locally as feed for pigs. The husks are flattened
and soaked, then fed through machinery that
separates the fiber. This is then made into twine,
rope, brushes, and doormats, or it is bundled to
be used as mattress fiber. Nothing is wasted.
Behind the factory is Wainiyabia Beach, one of
the most scenic on Lakeba.
Nasaqalau and Vicinity
The finest limestone caves on the island are
near the coast on the northwest side of Lake-
ba, 2.5 km southwest of Nasaqalau. Oso
Nabukete is the largest; the entrance is behind
a raised limestone terrace. You walk through
two chambers before reaching a small, circular
opening about one meter in diameter, which
leads into a third chamber. The story goes that
women attempting to hide during pregnancy are
unable to pass through this opening, thus giving
the cave its name, the Tight Fit to the Preg-
nant" Cave.
Nearby is a smaller cave, Qara Bulo ("Hidden
Cave"), which one must crawl into. Warriors
used it as a refuge and hiding place in former
times. The old village of Nasaqalau was located
on top of the high cliffs behind the caves at Ulu-
ni-koro. The whole area is owned by the Nauto-
qumu clan of Nasaqalau, and they will arrange
for a guide to show you around for a fee. Take a
LAKEBA
I
Copyrighted material
SOUTHERN LAU 317
flashlight and some newspapers to spread over
the openings to protect your clothing.
Each October or November the Nasaqalau
people perform a shark-calling ritual. A month be-
fore the ritual, a priest (bete) plants a post with a
piece of tapa tied to it in the reef. He then keeps
watch to ensure that no one comes near the
area, while performing a daily kava ceremony.
When the appointed day arrives, the caller
wades out up to his neck and repeats a chant.
Not long after, a large school of sharks led by a
white shark arrives and circles the caller. He
leads them to shallow water, where all but the
white shark are formally killed and eaten.
East of Tubou
Two less impressive caves can be found at
Tarakua, southeast of Tubou. Qara-ni-pusi has
a small entrance, but opens up once you get in-
side. Delaiono Cave is just below a huge
banyan tree; this one is easier to enter and small-
er inside.
The number one beach near Tubou is
Nukuselal, which you can reach by walking east
along the coastal road as far as the P.W.D. work-
shops. Turn right onto the track, which runs
along the west side of the compound to Nukuse-
lal Beach.
Into the Interior
Many forestry roads have been built throughout
the interior of Lakeba. You can walk across the is-
land from Tubou to Yadrana in a couple of hours,
enjoying excellent views along the way. A radio
station operates on solar energy near the cen-
ter of the island. Aiwa Island, which can be seen
to the southeast, is owned by the Tui Nayau and
is inhabited only by flocks of wild goats.
Jekesoni Qica's Guesthouse (do Lau Provin-
cial Office, Tubou, Lakeba; tel. 823-188) in Tubou
offers rooms with shared bath at F$25 pp for
bed and breakfast. Other meals are F$5 each.
Ratu's Inn (tel. 823-081) is similar. The locals at
Tubou concoct a potent homebrew (uburu) from
cassava— ask Jack or the Ratu where you can
get some.
Mikaele Funaki (tel. 387-591 or 385-419) in
Suva, "the master of eco-touring in Fiji," can
arrange village accommodations in Nasaqalau
on northern Lakeba at F$28 pp a day including
meals and cave tours.
Getting There
Air Fiji flies to Lakeba three times a week from
Suva (F$114). A bus connects the airstrip to
Tubou, and buses run around the island four
times weekdays, three times daily weekends.
OTHER ISLANDS OF SOUTHERN LAU
Unlike the islands of northern Lau, many of which
are freehold and owned by outsiders, the isles of
southern Lau are communally owned by the Fi-
jian inhabitants. This is by far the most remote
corner of Fiji. In a pool on Vanua Vatu are red
prawns similar to those of Vatulele and Vanua
Levu. Here the locals can summon the prawns
with a certain chant.
Oneata is famous for its mosquitoes and tapa
cloth. In 1830 two Tahitian teachers from the
London Missionary Society arrived on Oneata
and were adopted by a local chief who had pre-
viously visited Tonga and Tahiti. The men spent
the rest of their lives on the island, and there's a
monument to them at Dakuloa village.
Moce is known for its tapa cloth, which is also
made on Namuka, Vatoa, and Ono-i-Lau. Komo
is famous for its handsome women and dances
(meke), which are performed whenever a ship ar-
rives. Moce, Komo, and Olorua are unique in
that they are volcanic islands without uplifted
limestone terraces.
The Yagasa Cluster is owned by the people
of Moce, who visit it occasionally to make copra.
Fiji's finest tanoa are carved from vesi (iron-
wood) at Kabara, the largest island in southern
Lau. The surfing is also said to be good at
Kabara, if you can get there.
Fulaga is known for its woodcarving; large out-
rigger canoes are still built on Fulaga, as well as on
Ogea. Over 100 tiny islands in the Fulaga lagoon
have been undercut into incredible mushroom
shapes. The water around them is tinged with
striking colors by the dissolved limestone, and
there are numerous magnificent beaches. Yachts
can enter this lagoon through a narrow pass.
Ono-i-Lau, far to the south, is closer to Tonga
than to the main islands of Fiji. It consists of
three small volcanic islands, remnants of a single
Copyrighted material
318 THE LAU GROUP
3
I
<
□
0
/Vfafu/cu /s/and,
Moa/a Group
crater, in an oval lagoon. A few tiny coral islets sit
on the barrier reef. The people of Ono-i-Lau
make the best magi magi (sennit rope) and tabu
kaisi mats in the country. Only high chiefs may sit
on these mats. Ono-i-Lau formerly had air ser-
vice from Suva, but this has been suspended.
The Moala Group
Structurally, geographically, and historically, the
high volcanic islands of Moala, Totoya, and
Matuku have more to do with Viti Levu than with
the rest of Lau. In the mid- 19th century, the Ton-
MOALA
(Government Station)
gan warlord Enele Ma'afu conquered the is-
lands, and today they're still administered as
part of the Lau Group. All three islands have
varied scenery, with dark green rainforests above
grassy slopes, good anchorage, many villages,
and abundant food. Their unexplored nature yet
relative proximity to Suva by boat make them
an ideal escape for adventurers. No tourist fa-
cilities of any kind exist in the Moala Group.
Triangular Moala is an intriguing 68-square-
km island, the ninth largest in Fiji. Two small
crater lakes on the summit of Delai Moala (467
meters) are covered with matted sedges, which
will support a person's weight. Though the main
island is volcanic, an extensive system of reefs
flanks the shores. Ships call at the small gov-
ernment station of Naroi. also the site of an
airstrip that receives Air Fiji flights twice a week
from Suva(F$103).
Totoya is a horseshoe-shaped high island
enclosing a deep bay on the south. The bay,
actually the island's sunken crater, can only be
entered through a narrow channel known as the
Gullet, and the southeast trades send high
waves across the reefs at the mouth of the bay,
making this a dangerous place. Better anchorage
is found off the southwest arm of the island. Five
Fijian villages are found on Totoya, while neigh-
boring Matuku has seven. The anchorage in a
submerged crater on the west side of Matuku
is one of the finest in Fiji.
material
ROTUMA 319
ROTUMA
This isolated six-by-14-km volcanic island, 600 their settlement at Motusa until local coopera-
km north of Viti Levu, is surrounded on all sides tives took over,
by more than 322 km of open sea. There's a
saying in Fiji that if you can find Rotuma on a
map it's a fairly good map. The climate is damp
and hot.
In the beginning Raho, the Samoan folk hero,
dumped two basketfuls of earth here to create
the twin islands, joined by the Motusa Isthmus,
and installed Sauiftoga as king. Tongans from Ni-
uafo'ou conquered Rotuma in the 17th century
and ruled from Noa'tau until they were overthrown.
The first recorded European visit was by Cap-
tain Edwards of HMS Pandora in 1791 , while he
was searching for the Bounty mutineers. Tongan
Wesleyan missionaries introduced Christianity in
1842, followed in 1847 by Marist Roman
Catholics. Their followers fought pitched battles in
the religious wars of 1871 and 1878. with the
Wesleyans emerging victorious. Escaped con-
victs and beachcombers also flooded in but most-
ly succeeded in killing each other off. Tiring of
strife, the chiefs asked Britain to annex the is-
land in 1881, and it has been part of Fiji ever
since. European planters ran the copra trade from
ROTUMA
320 ROTUMA
ROTUMA
Uea Uland
O Hatana Uland
Haualiu Uland
a
Hofiua Uland
(Split Uland)
Sororo*
Blull
vMaftoa
vOinafa
Hua
Losa*.
9 mi
K
Salvaka
hau (Government
Station) 4 Mt. Surlbot
*i «w (m») Rotuma
Motuaa , sland
Sum,
\,m ...... >Jul"<^^?KaUak8
Potat c=> ^— -*
Solnoho Solkolpc
Uland Uland
Fafaitina
Noa'tau
O Afgaha
Uland
5 km
Rotuma is run like a colony of Fiji, with the
administration in the hands of a district officer
responsible to the district commissioner at Le-
vuka. Decisions of the 15-member Rotuma is-
land council are subject to veto by the national
government. A desire for independence is felt
among some Rotumans, and recently Internet
hucksters from the United States have tried to ex-
ploit this in the hope of creating a tax-free state
that they could use for money laundering, gam-
bling, and other anti-social activities. Some 2,800
Rotumans presently inhabit the island, and an-
other 4,600 live in Suva. The light-skinned Poly-
nesian Rotumans are easily distinguished from
Fijians. The women weave fine white mats. Fiji's
juiciest oranges are grown here and Rotuma
kava is noted for its strength.
SIGHTS
Ships arrive at a wharf on the edge of the reef,
connected to Oinafa Point by a 200-meter coral
causeway, which acts as a breakwater. There's
a lovely white beach at Oinafa. The airstrip is to
the west, between Oinafa and Ahau, the gov-
ernment station. At Noa'tau southeast of Oinafa
is a coop store; nearby, at Sililo, visit a hill with
large stone slabs and old cannons scattered
about, marking the burial place of the kings of
yore. Look for the fine stained-glass windows
in the Catholic church at Sumi on the south
coast. Inland near the center of the island is Mt.
Suelhof (256 meters), the highest peak; climb
it for the view.
Maftoa across the Motusa Isthmus has a cave
with a freshwater pool. In the graveyard at Maftoa
are huge stones brought here long ago. It's said
four men could go into a trance and carry the
stones with their fingers. Sororoa Bluff (218
meters) above Maftoa should also be climbed for
the view. Deserted Vovoe Beach on the west
side of Sororoa is one of the finest in the Pacific.
A kilometer southwest of Sororoa is Solmea Hill
(165 meters), with an inactive crater on its north
slope. On the coast at the northwest comer of
Rotuma is a natural stone bridge over the water.
Hatana, a tiny islet off the west end of Rotu-
ma, is said to be the final resting place of Raho,
the demigod who created Rotuma. A pair of
volcanic rocks before a stone altar surround-
ed by a coral ring are said to be the King and
Queen stones. Today Hatana is a refuge for
seabirds. Hofiua or Split Island looks like it was
cut in two with a knife; a circular boulder bridges
the gap.
PRACTICALITIES
Accommodations
Few organized accommodations exist on Rotu-
ma. Many Rotumans live in Suva, however, and
if you have a Rotuman friend he/she may be
willing to send word to his/her family to expect
you. Ask your friend what you should take along
ROTUMA 321
as a gift. Although the Colonial National Bank
has a small branch at Ahau on Rotuma, you
should change enough money for all local ex-
penditures before leaving Suva.
Rotuma Island Backpackers (P.O. Box 83,
Rotuma; tel. 891-290) is operated by Vani
Marseu of Motusa village who asks F$15 per
couple to pitch a tent.
Getting There
Sun Air (tel. 891-084) flies to Rotuma from Suva
twice weekly (F$288). Kadavu Shipping (tel.
31 1 -766) operates the ship Bulou-ni-ceva from
Suva to Rotuma once a month (two days,
F$90/140 deck/cabin each way). Ask around
Walu Bay and at Patterson Brothers Shipping
for other ships from Suva.
racing crab (Octyrod ceratophthamus)
Copyrighted material
322 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
RESOURCES
DESCRIPTION AND TRAVEL
Geraghty, Craig, Glen, and Paul. Children of the
Sun. Gympie, Australia: Glen Craig Publishing,
1996. This photo book available at the Fiji
Visitors Bureau office in Suva is like one big
Fiji family picture album in glorious color.
Gravelle, Kim. Romancing the Islands. Suva:
Graphics Pacific, 1997. In these 42 stories,
ex-American, now-Fiji resident Kim Gravelle
shares a quarter century of adventures in the
region. A delightfully sympathetic look at the is-
lands and their characters.
Sahadeo, Muneshwar, et al. Holy Torture in Fiji.
Suva: Institute of Pacific Studies, 1974. Ritu-
als involving knives, oil, and fire; covers re-
sistance to pain, the function of the ordeals,
and other manifestations of religious devo-
tion by Indo-Fijians.
Siers, James. Fiji Celebration. New York: St.
Martin's Press, 1985. Primarily a color-photo,
coffee-table book, this also provides a good
summary of the history of Fiji.
Stanley, David. Moon Handbooks: South Pacif-
ic. Emeryville, CA: Avalon Travel Publishing.
Covers 1 5 Pacific countries and territories in
the style of Moon Handbooks: Fiji. To learn
more, visit www.southpacific.org.
Stephenson, Dr. Elsie. Fiji's Past on Picture
Postcards. Suva: Fiji Museum, 1997. Some
275 old postcards of Fiji from the Caines Jan-
nif collection.
Theroux, Paul. The Happy Isles of Oceania.
London: Hamish Hamilton, 1992. The author
of classic accounts of railway journeys sets
out with kayak and tent to tour the Pacific.
Traditional Handicrafts of Fiji. Suva: Institute of
Pacific Studies, 1 997. The significance and
history of Fijian handicrafts.
Wright, Ronald. On Fiji Islands. New York: Pen-
guin Books, 1986. Wright relates his travels to
Fijian history and tradition in a most pleasing
and informative way.
GEOGRAPHY
Derrick, R.A. The Fiji Islands: Geographical
Handbook. Suva: Government Printing Of-
fice, 1965. Derrick's earlier History of Fiji
(1946) was a trailblazing work.
Donnelly, Quanchi, and Kerr. Fiji in the Pacific: A
History and Geography of Fiji. Australia:
Jacaranda Wiley, 1994. A high school text on
the country.
Oliver, Douglas L. The Pacific Islands. Hon-
olulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1989. A
third edition of the classic 1961 study of the
history and anthropology of the entire
Pacific area.
Ridgell, Reilly. Pacific Nations and Territories.
A high school geography text that provides
an overview of the region and also focuses
on the individual islands. Pacific Neighbors
is an elementary school version of the same
book, written in collaboration with Betty Dun-
ford. Both are published by Bess Press
(www.besspress.com).
NATURAL SCIENCE
Clunie, Fergus, and Pauline Morse. Birds of the
Fiji Bush. Suva: Fiji Museum, 1984.
Lebot, Vincent, Lamont Lindstrom, and Mark
Martin. Kava—the Pacific Drug. Yale Univer-
sity Press, 1993. A thorough examination of
kava and its many uses.
Mayr, Ernst. Birds of the Southwest Pacific. Rut-
land, VT: Charles E. Turtle Co., 1978. Though
poor on illustrations, this paperback reprint of
Copyrighted material
RESOURCES 323
the 1 945 edition is still an essential reference
list for birders.
Merrill, Elmer D. Plant Life of the Pacific World.
Rutland, VT: Charles E. Tuttle Co., 1981. First
published in 1945, this handy volume is still a
serviceable reference.
Mitchell, Andrew W. A Fragile Paradise: Man
and Nature in the Pacific. London: Fontana,
1990. Published in the United States by the
University of Texas Press under the title The
Fragile South Pacific: An Ecological Odyssey.
Andrew Mitchell, an Earthwatch Europe
deputy director, utters a heartfelt plea on be-
half of all endangered Pacific wildlife in this
brilliant book.
Ryan. Paddy. Fiji's Natural Heritage. Auckland:
Exisle Publishing, 2000. With 500 photos and
288 pages of text, this is probably the most
comprehensive popular book on any Pacific is-
land ecosystem. It's so good every school in
Fiji was given a copy by the New Zealand
Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Seacology
Foundation paid to have it translated into Fi-
jian.
Ryan. Paddy. The Snorkeler's Guide to the Coral
Reef. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press,
1994. An introduction to the wonders of the
Indo-Pacific reefs. The author spent 10 years
in Fiji and knows the country well.
Watling, Dick. Mai Veikau: Tales of Fijian Wildlife.
Suva: Fiji Times, 1986. A wealth of easily di-
gested information on Fiji's flora and fauna.
Copies are available in Fiji bookstores.
Zug, George R. The Lizards of Fiji. Honolulu:
Bishop Museum Press, 1991 . A comprehen-
sive survey of the 23 species of Fijian lizards.
HISTORY
Clunie, Fergus. Yalo i Viti. Suva: Fiji Museum,
1986. An illustrated catalog of the museum's
collection with lots of intriguing background
information provided.
Denoon, Donald, et al. The Cambridge History of
the Pacific Islanders. Australia: Cambridge
University Press, 1997. A team of scholars
examines the history of the inhabitants of
Oceania from first colonization to the nuclear
era. While acknowledging the great diversity of
Pacific peoples, cultures, and experiences,
the book looks for common patterns and re-
lated themes, presenting them in an insightful
and innovative way.
Derrick, R.A. A History of Fiji. Suva: Govern-
ment Press, 1946. This classic work by a for-
mer director of the Fiji Museum deals with the
period up to 1874 only. It was reprinted in
1974 and is currently available at bookstores
in Fiji.
Ewins, Rory. Colour, Class and Custom: The
Literature of the 1987 Fiji Coup. 2nd ed., 1 998.
Available online at http://speedysnail.com/pa-
cific/fijLcoup
Gravelte, Kim. Fiji's Times: A History of Fiji. Suva:
Fiji Times. 1979. An entertaining anthology
of accounts originally published in The Fiji
Times.
Howard, Michael C. Fiji: Race and Politics in an
Island State. Vancouver: University of British
Columbia Press, 1991. Perhaps the best
scholarly study of the background and root
causes of the first two Fiji coups.
Lai. Brij V. Broken Waves: A History of the Fiji Is-
lands in the 20th Century. Honolulu: University
of Hawaii Press, 1992. Lai is a penetrating
writer who uses language accessible to the
layperson.
Mara, Ratu Sir Kamisese. The Pacific Way: A
Memoir. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press,
1997. Personal observations and reminis-
cences by the man who did so much to shape
modem Fiji.
Ravuvu, Asesela. The Facade of Democracy:
Fijian Struggles for Political Control
1830-1987. Suva: Institute of Pacific Stud-
ies, 1991. European politics, colonial rule, the
Indian threat, multiculturalism, and cultural in-
Copyrighted material
324 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
sensitivity— factors in the 1987 coups as seen
by a Fijian nationalist.
Routledge, David. Matanitu: The Struggle for
Power in Early Fiji. Suva: Institute of Pacific
Studies, 1985. A revealing source of histori-
cal/anthropological background on the divi-
sions within Fiji that led to the 1987 coup.
Scarr, Deryck. Fiji: A Short History. Honolulu:
University of Hawaii Press, 1984. A balanced
look at Fijian history from first settlement to
1 982. Scarr also wrote Fiji, Politics of Illusion:
The Military Coups in Fiji published in 1 988.
Sharpham, John, Rabuka of Fiji: The authorized
biography of Major General Sitiveni Rabuka.
Rockhampton: Central Queensland Univer-
sity Press, 2000. In this volume Rabuka claims
that Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara had prior knowl-
edge of his 1987 coup and approved, a claim
denied by Mara himself.
Sutherland, William. Beyond the Politics of Race:
An Alternative History of Fiji to 1992. Canber-
ra: Research School of Pacific Studies, 1992.
William Sutherland was Dr. Bavadra's per-
sonal secretary.
Usher, Sir Leonard, Letters From Fiji:
1987-1990. Suva: Fiji Times, 1993. A collec-
tion of letters written to Queen Elizabeth about
the events unfolding in Fiji. A sequel covers
the years 1990-1994.
Wallis, Mary. Life in Feejee: Five Years Among
the Cannibals. First published in 1851, this
book is the memoir of a New England sea
captain's wife in Fiji. It's a charming, if rather
gruesome, firsthand account of early Euro-
pean contact with Fiji and has some fascinat-
ing details of Fijian customs. You'll find ample
mention of Cakobau, who hadn't yet convert-
ed to Christianity. Reprinted by the Fiji Mu-
seum, Suva, in 1983, but again out of print. A
rare South Seas classic!
Wallis, Mary. The Fiji and New Caledonia Jour-
nals of Mary Wallis, 1851-1853. Suva: Insti-
tute of Pacific Studies, 1994. This reprint of the
sequel to Life in Feejee offers many insights,
and the editor, David Routledge, has added
numerous notes.
Waterhouse, Joseph. The King and People of
Fiji. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press,
1997. The Rev. Joseph Waterhouse wit-
nessed Fijian life at the earliest stages of the
1 9th century. His work offers an excellent in-
sight into the traditional Fijian way of life.
PACIFIC ISSUES
Culture and Democracy in the South Pacific.
Suva: Institute of Pacific Studies, 1992. A
major book presenting essays and poetry
about freedom by 16 Pacific writers.
De Ishtar. Zohl, ed. Daughters of the Pacific.
Melbourne: Spinifex Press, 1994. A stirring
collection of stories of survival, strength, de-
termination, and compassion told by indige-
nous women of the Pacific. The stories relate
their experiences, and the impact on them by
nuclear testing, uranium mining, neo-colo-
nialism, and nuclear waste dumping.
Emberson-Bain, 'Atu, ed. Sustainable Devel-
opment or Malignant Growth? Perspectives
of Pacific Island Women. Suva: Marama Pub-
lications, 1994. Contains valuable back-
ground information of the regional environ-
ment. Emberson-Bain's Labour and Gold in
Fiji '(Cambridge University Press, 1994) is
also useful.
Ernst. Manfred. Winds of Change. Suva: Pacific
Conference of Churches, 1994. A timely ex-
amination of rapidly growing religious groups
information on contemporary religion in the
South Pacific.
Robie, David, ed. Tu Galala: Social Change in
the Pacific. Wellington: Bridget Williams
Books, 1992. In this book, Robie has collect-
ed a series of essays examining the conflicting
influences of tradition, democracy, and west-
ernization, with special attention to environ-
mental issues and human rights.
Copyrighted material
RESOURCES 325
Tubanavau-Salabula, Losena, Josua Namoce,
and Nic Maclellan, eds. Kirisimasi. Suva: Pa-
cific Concerns Resource Center, 1 999. The
story of the Fijian troops who served in
Britain's dirty nuclear testing program on
Christmas Island in 1957-1958.
SOCIAL SCIENCE
Colpani, Satya. Beyond the Black Waters: A
Memoir of Sir SathiNarain. Suva: Institute of
Pacific Studies, 1996. Having migrated from
southern India with his family, Sir Sathi Narain
(1919-1989) became a leader in the con-
struction industry and an influential figure in the
country's life.
Lifuka, Neli, edited and introduced by Klaus-
Friedrich Koch. Logs in the Current of the
Sea: Neli Lifuka's Story of Kioa and the
Vaitupu Colonists. Canberra: Australian Na-
tional University, 1 978. The troubled story of
the purchase in 1946 and subsequent settle-
ment of Kioa Island off Vanua Levu by Poly-
nesians from Tuvalu, as told by one of the
participants.
Norton, Robert. Race and Politics in Fiji. St. Lucia,
Queensland: University of Queensland Press,
1990. A revised edition of the 1977 classic.
Norton emphasizes the flexibility of Fijian cul-
ture, which was able to absorb the impact of
two military coups without any loss of life.
Prasad, Shiu. Indian Indentured Workers in Fiji.
Suva: South Pacific Social Studies Associa-
tion, 1974. Describes the life of laborers in
the Labasa area.
Ravuvu, Asesela. Development or Dependence:
The Pattern of Change in a Fijian Village.
Suva: Institute of Pacific Studies, 1988. High-
lights the unforeseen negative impacts of de-
velopment in a Fijian village.
Ravuvu, Asesela. The Fijian Ethos. Suva: Insti-
tute of Pacific Studies. 1 987. An in-depth study
of Fijian ceremonies.
Ravuvu, Asesela. Vaka / Taukei: The Fijian Way
of Life. Suva: Institute of Pacific Studies, 1983.
A definitive study of kinship, houses, food,
life-cycles, land, spirits, personality, values,
and administration.
Roth, G. Kingsley. Fijian Way of Life. 2nd ed.
Melbourne: Oxford University Press, 1973. A
standard reference on Fijian culture.
LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE
Capell, A. A New Fijian Dictionary. Suva: Gov-
ernment Printer, 1991. A Fijian-English dic-
tionary invaluable for anyone interested in
learning the language. Scholars have a gen-
erally low opinion of this work, which contains
hundreds of errors, but it's still a handy ref-
erence. Also see C. Maxwell Churchward's
A New Fijian Grammar.
Griffen, Ariene, ed. With Heart and Nerve and
Sinew: Post-coup writing from Fiji. Suva: Mara-
ma Club, 1997. An eclectic collection of re-
sponses to the first coups and life in Fiji there-
after.
Hereniko, Vilsoni, and Teresia Teaiwa. Last Vir-
gin in Paradise. Suva: Institute of Pacific Stud-
ies, 1993. The Rotuman Hereniko has writ-
ten a number of plays, including Don't Cry
Mama (1 977), A Child for Iva (1 987), and The
Monster (1989).
Kikau, Eci. The Wisdom of Fiji. Suva: Institute of
Pacific Studies, 1 981 . This extensive collection
of Fijian proverbs opens a window to under-
standing Fijian society, culture, and philosophy.
Pillai, Raymond. The Celebration. Suva: South
Pacific Creative Arts Society, 1980. A collec-
tion of short stories in which the heteroge-
neous nature of Indo-Fijian society is pre-
sented by an accomplished storyteller.
Tarte, Daryl. Islands of the Frigate Bird. Suva: In-
stitute of Pacific Studies, 1 999. A novel about the
struggle for survival of Central Pacific peoples.
Veramu, Joseph C. Moving Through the Streets.
Suva: Institute of Pacific Studies, 1994. A fast-
moving novel providing insights into the
lifestyles, pressures, and temptations of
Copyrighted material
326 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
teenagers in Suva. Veramu has also written a
collection of short stories called The Black
Messiah (1989).
Wendt, Albert, ed. Nuanua: Pacific Writing in
English Since 1980. Honolulu. University of
Hawaii Press, 1995. This worthwhile antholo-
gy of contemporary Pacific literature includes
works by 10 Fijian writers including Prem Ban-
fal, Sudesh Mishra, Satendra Nandan, and
Som Prakash.
REFERENCE BOOKS
Douglas, Ngaire and Norman Douglas, eds. Pa-
cific Islands yearbook. Suva: Fiji Times, 1994.
First published in 1932, this is the 17th edition
of the original sourcebook on the islands. Al-
though the realities of modem publishing have
led to the demise of both the Yearbook and its
cousin Pacific Islands Monthly, this final edition
remains an indispensable reference work for
students of the region. Copies can be pur-
chased from The Fiji Times (tel. 304-111),
177 Victoria Parade, Suva.
The Far East and Australasia. London: Europa
Publications. An annual survey and directory
of Asia and the Pacific. Provides abundant
and factual political and economic data; an
excellent reference source.
Fry, Gerald W., and Rufino Mauricio. Pacific
Basin and Oceania. Oxford: Clio Press, 1987.
A selective, indexed Pacific bibliography,
which actually describes the contents of the
books, instead of merely listing them.
Gorman, G.E., and J.J. Mills. Fiji: World Biblio-
graphical Series, Volume 173. Oxford. Clio
Press, 1994. Critical reviews of 673 of the
most important books about Fiji.
Lai, Brig V., and Kate Fortune, eds. The Pacific
Islands: An Encyclopedia. Honolulu: University
of Hawaii Press, 2000. This important book
combines the writings of 200 acknowledged
experts on the physical environment, peo-
ples, history, politics, economics, society, and
culture of the South Pacific. The accompany-
ing CD-ROM provides a wealth of maps,
graphs, photos, biographies, and more.
Snow, Philip A., ed. A Bibliography of Fiji, Tonga,
and Rotuma. Coral Gables. FL: University of
Miami Press, 1969.
BOOKSELLERS AND PUBLISHERS
Some of the books listed above are out of print
and not available at bookstores. Major research
libraries should have a few, otherwise check the
specialized antiquarian booksellers or regional
publishers listed below for hard-to-find books
on Fiji. Sources of detailed topographical maps
or navigational charts are provided in the fol-
lowing section. Many titles can oe oraereo online
throuah www southDacific ora/books html
II II VUVJI I ft If ft • wV/ Will pUV'l IV • \S • Uf V W*»w - I III I II.
Armchair Sailor Seabooks, 543 Thames St.,
Newport, Rl 02840, U.S.A. (tel. 800/292-4278,
fax 410/847-1219, website: www.armchair
sailor.com). An outstanding source of charts
and cruising guides to Fiji and the Pacific.
Bibliophile, 24A Glenmore Rd., Paddington, Syd-
ney, NSW 2021, Australia (tel. 61-2/9331-
1411, fax 61-2/9361-3371, website: www
.ozemail.com.au/-susant). An antiquarian
bookstore specializing in books about Ocea-
nia. View their extensive catalog online.
Book Bin Pacifica, 228 S.W. Third St., Corvallis,
OR 97333, U.S.A. (tel. 541/752-0045, fax
541/754-4115, website: www.bookbin.com,
email: pacific@bookbin.com). Their indexed
mail-order catalog, Hawaii and Pacific Islands,
lists hundreds of rare books, and they also
carry some the titles from the Institute of Pa-
cific Studies in Suva.
Books of Yesteryear, P.O. Box 257, Newport,
NSW 2106, Australia (tel./fax 61-2/9918-
0545, website: www.abebooks.com/home
/booksofyesteryear). Another Australian
source of old, fine, and rare books on the
Pacific.
Copyrighted material
RESOURCES 327
Books Pasifika, P.O. Box 68-446. Newtown,
Auckland 1 . New Zealand (tel. 64-9/303-2349,
fax 64-9/377-9528, website: www.ak.planet
.gen.nz/pasifika). Besides being a major pub-
lisher, Pasifika Press is one of New Zealand's
best sources of mail order books on Ocea-
nia, including those of the Institute of Pacific
Studies.
Institute of Pacific Studies, University of the
South Pacific, P.O. Box 1168, Suva, Fiji Is-
lands (tel. 679/212-018, fax 679/301-594,
website: www.usp.ac.fj/ips). Their catalog,
Books from the Pacific Islands, lists numerous
books about the islands written by the Pacific
islanders themselves. Some are rather dry
academic publications of interest only to spe-
cialists, so order carefully. The Institute's Book
Display Room on the USP campus in Suva
sells most of these books over the counter.
For Internet access to the catalog, see the
University Book Centre listing which follows.
Pacific Island Books, 2802 East 132nd Circle,
Thornton, CO 80241, U.S.A. (tel. 303/920-
8338, website: www.pacificislandbooks.com).
By far the best U.S. source of books about
Fiji. They stock many titles published by the In-
stitute of Pacific Studies.
Peter Moore, P.O. Box 66, Cambridge, CB1
3PD, United Kingdom (tel. 44-1223/411177,
fax 44-1223/240559). The European distribu-
tor of books from the Institute of Pacific Stud-
ies at the University of the South Pacific.
Serendipity Books, P.O. Box 340, Nedlands,
WA 6909, Australia (tel. 61-8/9382-2246, fax
61-8/9388-2728, website: www.merriweb.com.
au/serendip). The largest stocks of antiquari-
an, secondhand, and out-of-print books on
the Pacific in Western Australia.
University Book Centre, University of the South
Pacific, P.O. Box 1 168, Suva, Fiji Islands (fax
679/303-265, website: www.uspbookcentre
.com). An excellent source of books written
and produced in the South Pacific.
University of Hawaii Press. 2840 Kolowalu St.,
Honolulu, HI 96822-1888, U.S.A. (tel. 808/956-
8255, fax 808/988-6052. website: www
.uhpress. hawaii.edu). Their Hawaii and the
Pacific catalog available online is well worth
requesting if you're trying to build a Pacific li-
brary.
MAP PUBLISHERS
Defense Mapping Agency Catalog of Maps,
Chan's, and Related Products: Region VIII,
Oceania. National Ocean Service, Distribu-
tion Division, 6501 Lafayette Ave., Riverdale,
MD 20737-1199, U.S.A. (tel. 301/436-8301.
fax 301/436-6829, website: http://chartmak-
er.ncd/noaa.gov). A good source for nautical
charts of the Pacific.
Fiji Hydrographic Office. (Marine Department,
P.O. Box 362, Suva, Fiji; tel. 315-457, fax
303-251 ). Produces navigational charts of the
Yasawas, Kadavu, eastern Vanua Levu, and
the Lau Group. Their U.S. agents are Cap-
tains Nautical Supplies (2500 15th Ave. West,
Seattle, WA 981 19. U.S.A.; tel. 800/448-2278,
fax 206/281-4921, website: www.captains
nautical.com) and Pacific Map Center (560
N. Nimitz Highway, Suite 206A, Honolulu, HI
96817, U.S.A.; tel. 808/545-3600).
International Maps. Hema Maps Pty. Ltd., P.O.
Box 4365, Eight Mile Plains, Queensland
41 13, Australia (tel. 61-7/3340-0000, fax 61-
7/3340-0099, website: www.hemamaps.com.
au). Maps of the Pacific, Fiji, Solomon Islands,
Vanuatu, and Samoa.
Lands and Surveys Department. (Plan and Map
Sales, P.O. Box 2222, Government Buildings,
Suva, Fiji; tel. 21 1-395, fax 309-331). The main
publisher of topographical maps of Fiji with a
1 :50,000 series covering most of the country.
PERIODICALS
Banaba/Ocean Island News. Stacey M. King,
P.O. Box 149, Miami, Queensland 4220, Aus-
tralia (tel./fax 61-7/5575-9005, website:
www.ion.com.au/~banaban). This lively
newsletter covers virtually everything relating
to the Banabans of Fiji and Kiribati.
Copyrighted material
328 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
Commodores' Bulletin. Seven Seas Cruising
Assn., 1525 South Andrews Ave., Suite 217,
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33316, U.S.A. (tel.
954/463-2431, fax 954/463-7183, website:
www.ssca.org; US$53 a year worldwide by
airmail). This monthly bulletin is chock-full of
helpful information for anyone wishing to tour
the Pacific by sailing boat. All Pacific yachties
and friends should be Seven Seas members!
The Contemporary Pacific. University of Hawaii
Press, 2840 Kotowalu St., Honolulu, HI 96822,
U.S.A. (www.uhpress.hawaii.edu, published
twice a year, US$35 a year). Publishes a good
mix of articles of interest to both scholars and
general readers; the country-by-country "Po-
litical Review" in each number is a concise
summary of events during the preceding year.
The "Dialogue" section offers informed com-
ment on the more controversial issues in the
region, while recent publications on the is-
lands are examined through book reviews.
Those interested in current topics about Pacific
island affairs should check recent volumes
for background information.
Europe-Pacific Solidarity Bulletin. Published
quarterly by the European Center for Studies
Information and Education on Pacific Issues,
P.O. Box 151, 3700 AD Zeist, the Nether-
lands (tel. 31-30/692-7827, fax 31-30/692-
5614, website: www.antenna.nl/ecsiep).
Journal of Pacific History. Division of Pacific and
Asian History, RSPAS, Australian National Uni-
versity, Canberra, ACT 0200, Australia (fax 61-
2/6249-5525, website: http://sunsite.anu.edu
.au/spin/RSRC/history/jphsite.html). Since 1966
this publication has provided reliable scholarly in-
formation on tne raciiic. uutstanaing.
Journal of the Polynesian Society. Department of
Maori Studies, University of Auckland, Pri-
vate Bag 92019, Auckland, New Zealand
(www.arts.auckland.ac.nz/ant/JPS/journal
.html). Established in 1892, this quarterly jour-
nal contains a wealth of material on Pacific
cultures past and present written by scholars
of Pacific anthropology, archaeology, lan-
guage, and history.
Pacific. P.O. Box 913, Honolulu, HI 96808,
U.S.A. (tel. 808/537-9500, fax 808/537-6455,
website: www.pacificislands.ee). In January,
2001 , Hawaii-based Pacific Magazine (found-
ed in 1976) merged with Fiji-based Islands
Business to create a single magazine with
North Pacific and South Pacific editions. The
South Edition is still published in Suva. Since
the demise of Pacific Islands Monthly m June
1 999, Pacific has emerged as the only month-
ly newsmagazine covering all of Oceania. A
subscription will help you keep in touch.
Pacific News Bulletin. Pacific Concerns Resource
Center, 83 Amy St., Toorak, Private Mail Bag,
Suva, Fiji Islands (fax 679/304-755, website:
www.pcrc.org.fj; US$15 a year to Australia,
US$30 a year to North America and Europe).
A 16-page monthly newsletter containing up-
to-date intormation on nuclear, independence,
environmental, and political questions.
Pacifica Review. The Institute for Peace Re-
search, La Trobe University, Bundoora, Vic-
toria 3083, Australia (www.latrobe.edu.au/
www/socpol/pacifica.htm). A journal focusing
on peace, security, and global change in the
Asia Pacific region.
Review. P.O. Box 12095, Suva, Fiji Islands (P.O.
Box 12095, Suva; fax 679/302-852, website:
www.review.com.fj, email: review® is.com.fj).
A monthly news magazine with excellent cov-
erage of business and politics in Fiji. Read
the electronic edition (for a fee) at www
.fijilive.com.
Surf Report. P.O. Box 1028, Dana Point, CA
92629, U.S.A. (tel. 949/661-5147, fax 949/496-
7849, website: www.surfermag.com/travel).
Each month this newsletter provides a de-
tailed analysis of surfing conditions at a dif-
ferent destination (the last report on Fiji was
issue 7 #12). Back issues on specific countries
are available at US$8 each. This is your best
source of surfing information by far, and the
same people also put out the glossy Surfer
M a Qazine.
Tok Blong Pasifik. South Pacific Peoples Foun-
Copy righted material
OTHER RESOURCES 329
dation of Canada, 1921 Fernwood Road, Vic-
toria, BC V8T 2Y6. Canada (tel. 250/381 -41 31 .
fax 250/388-5258, website: www. sppf.org;
C$25 a year in Canada, US$25 elsewhere).
This lively quarterly of news and views focus-
es on regional environmental, development,
human rights, and disarmament issues.
Undercurrent. P.O. Box 1658, Sausalito. CA
94966, U.S.A. (www.undercurrent.com, US$39
a year). A monthly consumer protection-ori-
ented newsletter for serious scuba divers. Un-
like virtually every other diving publication, Un-
dercurrent accepts no advertising or free trips,
which allows its writers to tell it as it is.
OTHER RESOURCES
DISCOGRAPHY
Fanshawe. David, ed. Exotic Voices and
Rhythms of the South Seas (EUCD 1254).
Cook Islands drum dancing, a Fijian tralala
meke, a Samoan fiafia, a Vanuatu string band,
and Solomon Islands panpipes selected from
the 1 ,200 hours of tapes in the Fanshawe Pa-
cific Collection. This recording and many like
it can be ordered through www.southpacific
.org/music.html.
Fanshawe, David, ed. Spirit of Melanesia (CD-
SDL418). Saydisc Records, United Kingdom
(www.qualiton.com). An anthology of the
music of the five countries of Melanesia with
seven tracks from Fiji. Recorded in 1978,
1983, and 1994.
Linkels, Ad, and Lucia Linkels, eds. Rabi (PAN
2095). Music from Rabi, the new home of the
exiled Banabans of Ocean Island, recorded on
the island in 1997 and 1998.
Linkels, Ad, and Lucia Linkels, eds. Tautoga
(PAN 2097CD). The songs and dances of Ro-
tuma, Fiji, recorded on the island in 1996. It's
believed the tautoga dance arrived from Tonga
in the 18th century.
Linkels, Ad, and Lucia Linkels, eds. Viti Levu
(PAN 2096CD). This unique recording pro-
vides 20 examples of real Fijian music, from
Isa Lei to Bula rock, plus four Indo-Fijian
pieces. Recorded between 1986 and 1998,
it's the best of its kind on the market. The
three Linkels compact discs from PAN
Records form part of the series "Anthology of
Pacific Music" and extensive booklets ex-
plaining the music come with the records.
Music stores can order through Arhoolie,
10341 San Pablo Ave., El Cerrito, CA 94530,
U.S.A. (tel. 510/525-7471, fax 510/525-1204,
website: www.arhoolie.com/catalog/pan.html).
TOP 20 FIJI WEBSITES
David Robie's Cafe Pacific
www.asiapac.org.fj/cafepacific
This personal website of the coordinator of the
University of the South Pacific's journalism pro-
gram is bnmming with links to provocative articles
and analysis not found elsewhere.
Dive Fiji
www.divefiji.com
Provides loads of specific information on scuba
diving all around Fiji, with handy maps, photos,
and links.
Fiji Budget
www.fijibudget.com
An umbrella website for over a dozen back-
packer resorts and dive shops in the central Ya-
sawas. You can download their brochure as an
Adobe Acrobat (.pdf) file.
Fiji Government Official Site
www.fiji.gov.fj
This crispy clear, dynamic site is well worth vis-
iting to taste the image local politicians and bu-
reaucrats try to present to the world. You can
listen to Fiji's national anthem, peruse recent
news briefs, and consult topographical maps.
The press releases are often edifying.
fijilive.com
www.fijilive.com
News and editorials from the Daily Post, busi-
ness news, exchange rates, and a lively forum.
Copyrighted material
330 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
Fiji Meteorological Service
www.met.gov.fj
Everything you ever wanted to know about Fiji's
weather, including a daily Fiji weather bulletin
and regional forecasts for 1 0 other Pacific coun-
tries.
Fiji Online Travel Bureau
www.tourismfiji.com
Run by the Fiji-based travel agency UTC, this site
provides lots of useful visitor information, in-
cluding a clickable map of Fiji's regions.
FijiShop.com
www.fijishop.com
Your chance to familiarize yourself with the sort
of tourist products you'll be able to buy in Fiji.
It's tasteful design, easy navigation, and au-
thenticity have earned it a place here.
Fiji Village
www.fijivillage.com
Radio station FM 96's site provides breaking
news and headlines from The Fiji Times. Listen
to the top 10 songs in Fiji, read the classifieds, or
send a free Fiji postcard.
Fiji Visitors Bureau
www.bulafiji.com
This site is used by Fiji's national tourist office to
disseminate information about accommodations,
activities, transportation, events, and the like.
Precise, factual information is provided about
most tourist facilities.
Fiji Yachting
www.fijiyachting.com
A detailed cruising guide to Fiji with maps, de-
scriptions, anchorages, marinas, regulations,
charters, a slide show, and more. Perhaps the
best Fiji website of all.
OT&T
www.ecotoursfiji.com
Tastefully presented cultural and background
information on Levuka and Ovalau, with just the
right mix of tourist information and photos.
People's Coalition Government
www.pcgov.org.fj
Refreshingly different from all the rest, this site
will bring you up to date on Fiji's progress to-
ward the restoration of democracy.
Radio Fiji News
www.radiofiji.org
Delivers the latest news, weather, or sports re-
port in English, Fijian, or Hindi; announces up-
coming events; and you can request a song to
be broadcast on any of their five stations.
Rivers Fiji
www.riversfiji.com
Provides extensive information on white-water
rafting and kayaking on southern Viti Levu, and
their "release of liability form" really tells it as it is.
Rob Kay's Fiji Guide
www.fijiguide.com
The original author of Lonely Planet's Fiji guide
offers a variety of travel information and tips not
found elsewhere on the web. His whole book is
available online here.
Rotuma Website
www2.hawaii.edu/oceanic/rotuma/os/hanua.html
Every niche relating to Rotuma is here, including
history, culture, language, maps, population,
politics, news, photos, humor, proverbs, recipes,
art, and music.
Savusavu Fiji
www.savusavufiji.com
The pleasant design conveys the atmosphere
of Savusavu, the way Fiji used to be. The photos,
fast facts, and links introduce you to the accom-
modations, diving, sailing, fishing, transport, and
tours of the town.
South Pacific Organizer
www.southpacific.org
The personal website of the author of Moon
Handbooks: Fiji provides updated links and trav-
el tips for the entire region. Many of the books
and compact discs reviewed in Resources can
be ordered through this site.
Travelmaxia.com
www.travelmaxia.com
This online travel agency is a major clearing
house for bookings and information. The nu-
merous outside forms and links are useful.
Copyrighted material
OTHER RESOURCES 331
WEBSITE DIRECTORY
Affordable Fiji, Yasawas
www.affordablefiji.net
Air Fiji, Suva
www.airfiji.net
Air Pacific, Nadi
www.airpacific.com
Applied Geoscience Commission, Suva
www.sopac.org.fj
Aqua-Trek, Nadi
www.aquatrek.com
Aquaventure, Taveuni
www.aquaventure.org
Australian High Commission, Suva
www.austhighcomm.org.fj
Avis Rent-a-Car, Nadi
www.avis.com.fj
Ban a ban Society, Australia
www.ion.com.au/~banaban
Beachcomber Island, Nadi
www . beachcomberf iji .com
Beachouse, Korolevu
http://fijibeachouse.8m.com
Beachside Resort, Nadi
www.beachsideresortfiji.com
Bedarra House, Sigatoka
www.bedarrafiji.com
Beqa Divers, Pacific Harbor
www.beqadivers.com
Bethams Cottages, Nananu-i-Ra
www.bethams.com.fj
Blue Lagoon Cruises, Lautoka
www.bluelagooncruises.com
British High Commission, Suva
www.ukinthepacific.bhc.org.fj
Bureau of Statistics, Suva
www.statsfiji.gov.fj
Captain Cook Cruises, Nadi
www.captcookcrus.com.au
Castaway Island, Mamanucas
www.castawayisland.com
Central Rental Ltd., Nadi
www.central-rent-car.com.fj
Club Fiji, Nadi
www.clubfiji-resort.com
Communications Fiji Ltd., Suva
www.fijivillage.com
Constitutions of Fiji, Suva
www.fijiconstitution.com
Coral Air, Nadi
www.coralair.com
Coral Coast Scuba Ventures, Cuvu
www.coralcoastscuba.com
Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, Savusavu
www.fijiresort.com
Crow s Nest Resort, Korotogo
www.crowsnestfiji.com
Crusoe's Retreat, Korolevu
www.crusoesretreat.com
Crystal Divers, Nananu-i-Ra
www.crystaldivers.com
Daku Resort, Savusavu
www.dakuresort.com.fj
Department of Information, Suva
www.fiji.gov.fj
Devokula Cultural Village, Ovalau
www.culturefiji.com
Discover Diving
www.dive.inthepacific.com
Discover Fiji Tours, Navua
http://fathomtravel.com/fiji/discover_fiji
Dive Connections, Pacific Harbor
www.pacific-harbour.com/diveconn
Dive Fiji, Nadi
www.divefiji.com
Dive Kadavu, Kadavu
www.divekadavu.com
Dive Taveuni, Taveuni
www.divetaveuni.com
Dive Tropex, Nadi
www.divetropex.com
Dominion International Hotel, Nadi
www.dominion-international.com
Eco Divers, Savusavu
www.skyboom.com/ecodivers
Embassy of the United States, Suva
www.amembassy-fiji.gov
Emperor Gold Mine, Vatukuola
www.emperor.com.au
Fiji Aggressor, Nadi
www.pac-aggressor.com
Fiji American Civil Rights Association
www.fijiamr.org
Fiji Bed Bank, Nadi
www.fijibedbank.com
Fiji Broadcasting Corporation, Suva
www.radiofiji.org
Fiji Business Directory, Suva
www.fijibusiness.com
Copyrighted material
332 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
Fiii Business News Suva
■ II ■ v W W III \»" sm +m 1 V If %J * V— ' VI V u
www hulafiii c.o r\7
II II TV • kJ\J IUI II 1 • \m\m . ' 1 i—
www.fijibiznews.com
Fiji Visitors Bureau, Los Anodes
■ M w w mm w m mm w mm www mm w mr mm mm ■ ■■■■ mm mr w ■ ■ ■ mm mr ■ mm mr
Fiji Classifieds, Suva
www.bulafiji-americas.com
www.classifieds.com.fj
Fiii Visitors Bureau, Japan
■ M ww wjm w m mm ■ mr wmm mm w mr mm mm • mr mm mm mm »
Fiji Escape. Suva
■ ■ ■ ■ •■■» mm mr V« P"** mm • *»bI »■» w Wrl
www tabi or iD/fvb
II II Hi IV* mr I . 1 . J L/( 1 1 W
www fiiiescaDe com
Fiii Wala. Fiii
I III 1 1 W ■ U a I 1 J ■
Fiii Estates. Suva
www fiiiwala com
ii II II villi ww mm ■ m^ * mrmm ill
www fniestates com
Fiii Web Center Nadi
■ III ii mm mm mm mm ■ 1 V mm If IV mm mm I
Fiji Football Association, Suva
www.ivanetdesign.com/fijiweb
www.fijifootball.com
Fiji Women's Crisis Center, Suva
■> I www mr w w mm mm w w mm m mm mm mr w w mm* w * mm mm w mm
Fiji For Less, Suva
www.fijiwomen.com
www fiii4less com
IV V V II »IIJ 1 w l\^**«VW * wXS III
Fiii Yachtinq Suva
■ IJI 1 UVIIIIIIU) mm* mm 1 U
www.fiji4less.com.fj
www.fiiiyachtinq.com
ww ww ' 1 '1 J mm mr v » * ■ ■ ■ mm * mr mm ■ ■ ■
Fiii Gallery, Fiji
First Divers, Nadi
• ■ ■ mm m mm ■ ■ mm w im * ■ ' * J wtm '
www.fijigallery.com
www.ivanetdesign.com/firstdivers
Fiji International Telecommunications, Suva
First Landing Resort, Lautoka
www.fintel.com.fj
www.firstlandingfiji.com
Fiji Island White Pages
Forum Secretariat, Suva
www.whitepages.com.fj
www.forumsec.org.fj
Fiji Islands Yellow Pages
Free-Fiji.com
www.yellowpages.com.fj
www.freefiji.com
Fiji Live, Suva
Greenpeace Pacific Campaign
www.fijilive.com
www.qreenpeace.orq.au
Fiii Meteorolooical Service, Nadi
Harbor Prooertv Services. Deuba
» 9 mm ■ mm mm WWW mm mm mm w mm mm mr www mm mm mr • mm mm mm mm mm
www.met.gov.fj
www.Dacific-harbour.com
ww ww ww* mr mm mr www wr w wmm» ■ mr mr mm w • ^pr^pr ■ ■ ■
Fiii Museum, Suva
Hello Fiji, Suva
• wmm ■ w mm w I * *■
www.fijimuseum.org.fj
www.hellofiji.com
Fiii Natural Artesan Water
■ ■ ■ ■ 11 WmW % mm t V-€ ■ W m I **«?*aal ■ ■ I W W« * X» ■
Hideawav Resort Korolevu
III mmmr mm 1 1 %m y it W mm mm ■ my I mWfcpr I mm ■ w mm
www.fijiwater.com
www . h idea wayf i j i . com
Fiji Now, Ba
Hot Sprmqs Hotel, Savusavu
■ m mr m mm mm viii mwm mr w ■ mr m mr m % mm mm w mm mr mm w www
www fiii nu
II II "•'111,1 I \r>
www savusavufiii com
WW WW VV 1 mmmm w mm WVA 1 V«i 1 1 1 1 « WV III
Fiii Online, Suva
• mm w mm w ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ww y mm i»* mf wmm
Internet Fiii, Suva
■ ■ ■ * mr www mr % ■ M l w mm
www.fiji-online.com.fj
www . i nternetf ij i . com
Fiji On Sale, Suva
Invest in Paradise, Pacific Harbor
w www m mm w mm mm w mr mr * w mm mw www mr w w mm w w^r mr ■
www.fiiionsale.com
II II II mr ■ * mrmmi I • mr III
www fiii2000 net
II II 11*111 wmrnm mr mr mr * 1 ■ mm »
Fiji Rugby, Suva
Island Hoppers, Nadi
www.ruqby.com.fj
www.helicopters.com.fj
Fiii's Blue Suva
1 "I mm • *™ J wm w mm
Jack's Handicrafts Nadi
mr mm mm wm mr m * mm ■ ■ mm w mr ■ mm ■ % w ^ ■ 1 mm mm ■
wwwl.fijisblue.com
www .jacks . handicrafts . com .f j
Fiji School of Medicine, Suva
Journalism Program, USP Suva
www.fsm.ac.fj
www.usp.ca.fj/joum
Fiii ShoD. Fiii
V I 1 l mm ■ V mm mm % ■ III
Just Pacific Fiii
mm mm mm m w mm wm 1 1 1 mm ■ ■ ■ i ■
www.fijishop.com
www.justpacific.com
Fiii Television Ltd.. Suva
■ 1 1 ' ■ mm ■ mm V ■ W ■ mm V I ■*■> * mm ■ y mm* mm w %m
Khans Rent-a-Car. Nadi
• * ■ ■ mm w w mm w w mm w w m mm mm mm w % w w mm mm I
www.fijitv.com.fj
www.khansrental.com.fj
Fiji Trade & Investment Bureau, Suva
Koro Sun Resort, Savusavu
www.ftib.org.fj
www.korosunresort.com
Fiji Visitors Bureau, Suva
Kula Eco Park, Korotogo
www.buiafiji.com
www.fijiwild.com
Fiji Visitors Bureau, Auckland
Lagoon Resort, Pacific Harbor
Copyrighted material
OTHER RESOURCES 333
www.lagoonresort.com
Lalati Resort, Beqa
www.lalati-fiji.com
Leleuvia Island Resort, Levuka
www.owlfiji.com/leleuvia.htm
Lomalagi Resort, Savusavu
www.lomalagi.com
Malolo Island Resort, Mamanucas
www.maloloisland.com
Maravu Plantation Resort, Taveuni
www.maravu.net
Margaret Travel Service, Nadi
www.fijiislandstravel.com
Marlin Bay Resort, Beqa
www.marlinbay.com
Matamanoa Island Resort, Mamanucas
http://matamanoa.bulafiji.com
Matangi Island Resort, Taveuni
www.matangiisland.com
Matava Astrolabe Hideaway, Kadavu
www.matava.com.au
Mike's Divers, Votua
www.dive-fiji.com
Ministry of Mineral Resources, Suva
www.mrd.gov.fj
Mocambo Hotel, Nadi
www.shangri-la.com
Mollie Dean Cruises, Lami
www.sere.com.fj
Mokosoi Products, Suva
www.mokosoi.com.fj
Mokusigas Island Resort, Nananu-i-Ra
www.mokusigas.com
Moody's Namena, Savusavu
www.bulafiji.com/web/moodys
Moon Handbooks: Fiji
www.southpacif ic.org/fiji . html
Musket Cove Resort, Mamanucas
www.musketcovefiji.com
Nabuk Charters, Taveuni
www.nabuk.com
Nacula Tikina Tourism Association, Yasawas
www.fijibudget.com
Nadi Bay Hotel, Nadi
www.fijinadibayhotel.com
Nagigia Island, Kadavu
www.fijisurf.com
Nai'a Cruises, Pacific Harbor
www.naia.com.fj
Naigani Island Resort, Lomaiviti
www.naigani.com
Namale Resort, Savusavu
www.namalefiji.com
Namotu Island Resort, Nadi
www.namotuisland.com
Natadola Beach Resort, Sigatoka
www.natadola.com
Navini Island Resort, Mamanucas
www.navinifiji.com.fj
Naviti Resort, Korolevu
www.navitiresort.com.fj
Nista Design, Pacific Harbor
www.nista.com
Nukubati Island Resort, Labasa
www.nukubati.com
Nukuyaweni Outpost, Gau
www.bayofangels.com
Octopus Resort, Waya
www.octopusresort.com
Outrigger Reef Resort, Korotogo
www.outrigger.com/fiji
Ovalau Holiday Resort, Levuka
www.ohrfiji.com
Ovalau Tours and Transport, Levuka
www.ecotoursfiji.com
Ovalau Watersports Ltd., Levuka
www.owlfiji.com
Over Here Fiji, Pacific Harbor
www.overherefiji.com
Pacific Concerns Resource Center, Suva
www.pcrc.org.fj
Pacific Forum, Fiji
www.pacificforum.com
Pacific Island Seaplanes, Nadi
www.fijiseaplanes.com
Pacific Magazine, Suva
www.pacificislands.ee
Pacific Navigator, Nadi
www.pacificnavigator.com
Pacific Peoples' Partnership
www.sppf.org
PW Tours, Nadi
www.pacificvalley.com.fj
Papageno Eco Resort, Kadavu
www.papagenoecoresort.com
Paradise Properties, Pacific Harbor
www.paradiseproperties.com
People's Coalition Government, Fiji
www.pcgov.org.fj
Philatelic Bureau, Suva
Copyrighted material
334 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
www.stampsfiji.com
Plantation Island Resort, Malololailai
www.plantationisland.com
www.plantation-island.com
Qamea Beach Resort, Qamea
www.qamea.com
Ra Divers, Nananu-I-Ra
www.radivers.com
Raffles Gateway Hotel, Nadi
www.ivanetdesign.com/gateway/home.htm
Raffles Tradewinds Hotel, Suva
www.ivanetdesign.com/tradewinds/home.htm
Rainbow Reef Beach Estates, Vanua Levu
www.rainbowreeffiji.com
Rainbow Reef Resort, eastern Vanua Levu
www.rainbowreefresort.com
Raintree Lodge, Colo-i-Suva
www.raintreelodge.com
Resort Homes Fiji, Deuba
www.resorthomesfiji.com
Rivers Fiji, Pacific Harbor
www.riversfiji.com
Rob Kay s Fiji Guide
www.fijiguide.com
Rosie The Travel Service, Nadi
www.citysearch.com.au/syd/rosietours
Savusavu Today, Savusavu
http://skybusiness.com/savusavutoday
Sailwing Yachting, Lautoka
www.nauticabusiness.com/sailwing
Sandollars Gifts, Suva
www.sandollars.com
Scuba Bula, Nadi
www.scubabula.com
Sea Fiji Travel, Savusavu
www.seafiji.com
Seashell Cove Resort, Nadi
www.seashellresort.com
Shangri-La's Fijian Resort, Nadi
www.shangri-la.com
bneraion riji rieson, IMaai
www.sheraton.com/fiji
Significantly Original Holidays, Levuka
www.soholidays.com
Sonaisali Island Resort, Nadi
www.sonaisali.com
South Pacific Business, Pacific Harbor
www.southpacificbusiness.com
South Pacific Employment, Pacific Harbor
www.southpacificemployment.com
South Pacific Tourism Organization,
Suva
www.spto.org
www.tcsp.com
South Seas Private Hotel, Suva
www.fiji4less.com
Subsurface Fiji, Lautoka
www.fijidiving.com
Sun Air, Nadi
www.fiji.to
Sun Vacations, Nadi
www.ivanetdesign.com/sunvacation
Surfing Fiji Adventures, Korolevu
www.surfingfiji.com
Swiss Divers, Taveuni
www.swissfijidivers.com
Tambua Sands Beach Resort, Korolevu
www.tambuasandsfiji.com
i anoa noieis, iMaai
www.tanoahotels.com
Taveuni Development Co., Suva
www.fijirealestate.com
Taveuni Island Resort, Matei
www.taveuniislandresort.com
Telecom Fiji, Corporate Site, Suva
www.tfl.com.fj
Telecom Fiii Internet Services Suva
www.is.com.fj
Telecom Fiji, Phonecards, Suva
www.payphones.com.fj
Telecom Fiji, Telecard, Suva
www.telecard.com.fj
Toberua Island Resort, Suva
www.toberua.com
Tokoriki Island Diving, Mamanucas
www.tokorikidiving.com
Tokoriki Island Resort, Mamanucas
www.tokoriki.com
Tourist Information Center, Nadi
www.fijiadventures.com.fj
TravelMaxia.com, Pacific Harbor
www.travelmaxia.com
Treasure Island Resort, Mamanucas
www.treasure.com.fj
Tropical Dive, Matangi Island
www. matangiislanddive.com
Tropical Dive, Naigani
www.fijiscuba.com
Turtle Airways, Nadi
www.turtleairways.com
Copyrighted material
Turtle Island Resort, Yasawas
www.turtlefiji.com
United Touring Company, Nadi
www.tourismfiji.com
University Book Centre, Suva
www.uspbookcentre.com
University of the South Pacific, Suva
www.usp.ac.fj
Vakaviti Motel & Dorm, Korotogo
www.bulavakaviti.com.fj
Vanaira Bay Backpackers Haven, Vanua Levu
www.vanairabay.com
Vatulele Island Resort, Nadi
www.vatulele.com
Victory Inland Safaris, Nadi
www.victory.com.fj
Vomo Island Resort, Nadi
www.vomofiji.com
Wadigi Island Lodge, Mamanucas
www.wadigi.com
Waidroka Bay Resort, Coral Coast
www.dive-surf-fiji.com.fj
Waisalima Beach Resort, Kadavu
www.fijilive.com/waisalima
Wakaya Club, Lomaiviti
www.wakayaclub.com
Wananavu Beach Resort, Rakiraki
www.wananavu.com
Warwick Fiji, Korolevu
www.warwickfiji.com
Wayalailai Eco Haven Resort, Yasawas
www.bbr.ca/wayalailai
Worldskip Fiji
www.worldskip.com/fiji
World Wide Fund for Nature, Suva
www.wwfpacific.org.fj
Women in Fiji, Suva
www.women.com.fj
Yacht Help, Lautoka
www.yachthelp.com
Yasawa Island Resort, Yasawas
www.yasawa.com
EMAIL DIRECTORY
Air Fiji, Suva
airfiji@is.com.fj
Air Fiji Aviation Academy, Nausori
afaa@airfiji.com.fj
OTHER RESOURCES 335
Adventure Fiji, Nadi
res@rosie.com.fj
Adventures in Paradise, Sigatoka
wfall® is.com.fj
Alpha Computer Center, Suva
alphacomputer@is.com.fj
Anchorage Beach Resort, Lautoka
tanoahotels® is.com. fj
Aqua-Trek, Nadi
aquatrek@is.com.fj
Aqua-Trek Beqa, Pacific Harbor
aquatrekbeqa® is.com.fj
Aqua-Trek, Mana Island
aquatrekmana@is.com.fj
Aqua-Trek, Taveuni
info @ aquatrek.com
Aquaventure, Taveuni
aquaventure ©is.com.fj
Atlantis Divers, Nadi
atlantisdivers@is.com.fj
Avis Rent-a-Car, Nadi
aviscarsfj @ is.com.fj
Batiluva Beach Resort, Yanuca
heiltd® is.com.fj
Beachcomber Island, Nadi
beachcomber® is.com.fj
Beachouse, Korolevu
beachouse® is.com.fj
Beachside Resort, Nadi
beachsideresort® is.com.fj
Bedarra Inn, Sigatoka
bedarrahouse® is.com.fj
Beqa Divers, Pacific Harbor
divefiji® is.com.fj
Berjaya Hotel, Suva
berjaya® is.com.fj
Blue Lagoon Cruises, Lautoka
blc@is.com.fj
British High Commission, Suva
ukinfo@bhc.org.fj
Budget Rent-A-Car, Suva
budgetfiji® is.com.fj
Bula Marathon, Nadi
bulamarathon @ is.com.fj
Bureau of Statistics, Suva
i nf o @ statsf i j i . gov . f j
Capricorn Hotel, Nadi
Capricorn ©is.com.fj
Capricorn Hotel, Suva
capricornsuva @ is.com.fj
Copyrighted material
336 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
Captain Cook Cruises, Nadi
captcookcrus@ is.com. fj
Castaway Diving, Mamanucas
diving ©castawayfiji.com.fj
Castaway Island, Mamanucas
enquiries ©castawayfiji.com.fj
Cathay Hotel, Lautoka
cathay @ fiji4less.com
Cathay Hotel, Lautoka
cathay® is.com.fj
Centra Resort Pacific Harbor
centrapacharb@is.com.fj
Centra Suva Hotel, Suva
centrasuva @ is.com.fj
Club Fiji Resort, Nadi
jbelly® is.com.fj
Colonial Lodge, Suva
coloniallodge® is.com.fj
Communications Fiji Ltd., Suva
fv@ fm96.com. fj
Compuland, Lautoka
compuland @ is.com.fj
Consort Shipping Line, Suva
consortship® is.com.fj
Copra Shed Marina, Savusavu
coprashed® is.com.fj
Coral Air, Nadi
coralair® is.com.fj
Coral Coast Christian Camp, Deuba
coralcoastcc @ is.com.fj
Coral Coast Scuba Ventures
coralscuba® is.com.fj
Coral View Resort, Tavewa
coral ©is.com.fj
Coral Village Resort, Korolevu
corvill® is.com.fj
Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, Savusavu
fiji4fun@ is.com.fj
Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, Savusavu
info@fijiresort.com
Crow's Nest Resort, Korotogo
crowsnest® is.com.fj
Crusoe's Retreat, Korolevu
crusoes® is.com.fj
Crystal Divers, Nananu-i-Ra
crystaldivers® is.com.fj
Daily Post, Suva
daily post® is.com.fj
Daku Estate Resort, Savusavu
daku® is.com.fj
Department of Information, Suva
info@fiji.gov.fj
Discover Fiji Tours, Navua
discoverfiji @ is.com.fj
Dive Connections, Pacific Harbor
diveconn® is.com.fj
Dive Kadavu, Kadavu
divekadavu @ is.com.fj
Dive Sonaisali, Nadi
dive@sonaisali.com
Dive Taveuni, Taveuni
divetaveuni @ is.com.fj
Dive Taveuni, Taveuni
info @ divetaveuni.com
Dive Tropex, Nadi
divetropex @ is.com.fj
Dominion International Hotel, Nadi
dominion ©is.com.fj
Dominion iniernanonai noiei. Maui
dominionint® is.com.fj
Eco Divers, Savusavu
ecodivers® is.com.fj
Elixir Motel Apartments, Suva
plantworld® is.com.fj
Fiji Aggressor, Nadi
fijiaggressor® is.com.fj
Fiii Aaaressor Nadi
aggressorf iji @ is.com .f j
Fiji Dive Operators Assn., Savusavu
diveoperators @ is.com.fj
Fiji For Less, Suva
info@fiji4less.com
mji iniernanonai i eiecommunications, ouva
fintel® is.com.fj
Fiji Museum, Suva
fijimuseum @ is.com.fj
Fiji Palms Beach Club, Pacific Harbor
fijipalms® is.com.fj
Fiji Recompression Chamber Facility, Suva
recompression <@ is.com.tj
Fiji Sun, Suva
news@fijisun.com.fj
Fiji Times, Suva
fijitimes® is.com.fj
Fiji Trade & Investment Bureau, Suva
ftibinfo@ftib.org.fj
Fiii Visitors Bureau. Nadi
fvbnadi® is.com.fj
Fiji Visitors Bureau, Suva
infodesk@fijifvb.gov.fj
Copyrighted material
OTHER RESOURCES 337
Fiji Women's Crisis Center, Suva
fwcc@ is.com. fj
First Divers, Nadi
firstdivers@is.com.fj
First Landing Resort, Lautoka
firstlanding@is.com.fj
First Light Inn, Taveuni
firstlight@is.com.fj
Forum Secretariat, Suva
info @ forumsec.org.fj
Garden Island Resort, Taveuni
garden® is.com. fj
Grand Eastern Hotel, Labasa
grest© is.com. fj
Greenpeace Pacific Campaign, Suva
greenpeace© is.com.fj
Harbor Property Services, Deuba
hps @ pacific-harbour.com
HealthCare Pacific, Suva
healthcare ©is.com.fj
Hideaway Resort, Korolevu
hideaway® is.com. fj
Hobo Cruises, Malololailai
yachthobo@is.com.fj
Hot Springs Hotel, Savusavu
hotspringshotel @ is.com.fj
Institute of Pacific Studies, Suva
ips@usp.ac.fj
Internet Services, Suva
info ©is.com.fj
Island Hoppers, Nadi
islandhoppers@is.com.fj
Jack s Handicrafts, Nadi
jacks ©is.com.fj
Jona s Paradise Resort, Ono
divekadavu © is.com.fj
Kaba's Motel, Taveuni
kaba© is.com.fj
Kaimbu Island Resort, Northern Lau
kaimbu@earthlink.net
Kaimbu Island Resort, Northern Lau
kaimbu ©is.com.fj
Kenns Rent-a-Car, Nadi
kennsvol© is.com.fj
Khan's Rental Cars, Nadi
info @ khansrental .com .f j
Koro Sun Resort, Savusavu
korosun© is.com.fj
Koro Sun Resort, Savusavu
info@korosunresort.com
Koroyanitu National Heritage Park
koroyanitu© is.com.fj
Kula Eco Park, Korotogo
mitman© is.com.fj
Lagoon Resort, Pacific Harbor
lagoon ©is.com.fj
Lalati Resort, Beqa
lalati© is.com.fj
L'Aventure Divers, Savusavu
laventuref iji © is.com.fj
Leleuvia Island Resort
leleuvia@owlfiji.com
Liavata Lodge, Waya
ingrid @ f ijiwebcenter.zzn .com
Lomalagi Resort, Savusavu
lomalagi© is.com.fj
Malolo Island Resort, Mamanucas
malolores® is.com.fj
Mana Island Resort, Mamanucas
mana@ is.com.fj
Maravu Plantation Resort, Taveuni
maravu@ is.com.fj
Margaret Travel Service, Nadi
margarettrvl @ is.com.fj
Marlin Bay Resort, Beqa
marlinbay@is.com.fj
Matamanoa Island Resort, Mamanucas
matamanoa@ is.com.fj
Matana Beach Resort, Kadavu
divekadavu @ is.com.fj
Matangi Island Resort, Matangi
f ijires © matangiisland.com
Matava Astrolabe Hideaway, Kadavu
matava@suva.is.com.fj
Mikaele Funaki Tours, Navua
villagegreenfiji @ hotmail.com
Mike's Divers, Votua
info@dive-fiji.com
Mocambo Hotel, Nadi
mocambo© is.com.fj
Mokusigas Island Resort, Nananu-i-Ra
mokusigas© is.com.fj
Mollie Dean Cruises, Lami
sere ©is.com.fj
Moody's Namena, Savusavu
moodysnamena© is.com.fj
Musket Cove Resort, Malololailai
musketcovefiji © is.com.fj
Musket Cove Fishing Charters
fishingfiji© is.com.fj
Copyrighted material
338 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
Nacula Tikina Tourism Association, Yasaw
nacula@hotmail.com
Nadi Bay Hotel, Nadi
nadibay® is.com.fj
Nadi Hotel, Nadi
ndht® is.com.fj
Nagigia Island, Kadavu
sales@fijisurf.com
Nai'a Cruises, Lami
naia@is.com.fj
Naigani Island Resort, Lomaiviti
naigani@is.com.fj
Namale Resort, Savusavu
namale@is.com.fj
Namale Resort, Savusavu
namalefiji@aol.com
Namotu Island Resort, Nadi
namotu@ is.com. fj
Natadola Beach Resort, Sigatoka
natadola@is.com.fj
National Trust for Fiji, Suva
nationaltrust® is.com.fj
Navini Island Resort, Mamanucas
naviniisland @ is.com.fj
Naviti Resort, Korolevu
naviti® is.com.fj
Nawanawa Estate, Vanua Balavu
drlilituwai @ hotmail.com
New Zealand High Commission, Suva
nzhc@ is.org. fj
Nukubati Island Resort, Labasa
nukubati® is.com.fj
Nukuyaweni Outpost, Gau
outpost@bayofangels.com
Oceanic Schooner Co., Nadi
funcruises® is.com.fj
Octopus Resort, Waya
octopus_resort@yahoo.com
Old Capital Business Services, Levuka
levukaheritage® is.com.fj
Outrigger Reef Resort, Korotogo
outrigger® is.com.fj
Ovalau Holiday Resort, Levuka
info@ohrfiji.com
Ovalau Tours and Transport, Levuka
otttours® is.com.fj
Ovalau Watersports, Levuka
dive@owlfiji.com
Pacific Concerns Resource Center, Suva
pcrc@ is.com.fj
Pacific Crown Aviation, Nadi
islandhoppers® is.com.fj
Pacific Island Seaplanes, Nadi
pacisair® is.com.fj
Papageno Eco Resort, Kadavu
papagenoresort® is.com.fj
Patterson Brothers Shipping, Suva
patterson ©is.com.fj
Plantation Island Resort, Malololailai
plantation ©is.com.fj
Princess II, Taveuni
princessii© is.com.fj
PVV Tours, Nadi
pacvalley® is.com.fj
Qamea Beach Resort, Qamea
qamea© is.com.fj
Ra Divers, Nananu-i-Ra
radivers© is.com.fj
Raffles Gateway Hotel, Nadi
rafflesresv® is.com.fj
Raffles Tradewinds Hotel, Suva
tradewindsresv® is.com.fj
Rainbow Reef Resort, Vanua Levu
rainbowreefrs® is.com.fj
Raintree Lodge, Colo-i-Suva
raintreelodge@is.com.fj
Rakiraki Hotel, Rakiraki
tanoahotels® is.com.fj
Ratu Kini's Resort, Mana Island
tkabu® is.com.fj
Reserve Bank of Fiji, Suva
rbf® is.com.fj
Review Magazine, Suva
review® is.com.fj
Rivers Fiji, Pacific Harbor
riversfiji® is.com.fj
Robinson Crusoe Island, Natadola
robcrusoe® is.com.fj
Rosie The Travel Service, Nadi
res@rosie.com.fj
Royal Hotel, Levuka
royal ©is.com.fj
Royal Suva Yacht Club, Suva
rsyc© is.com.fj
Sailwing Yachting, Lautoka
sailwing® is.com.fj
San Bruno Hotel, Nadi
sanbruno® is.com.fj
Sandalwood Lodge, Nadi
sandalwood ©is.com.fj
Copyrighted material
Savusavu Real Estate, Savusavu
savusavurealest@is.com.fj
Saweni Beach Apartments, Lautoka
saweni © fiji4less.com
Scubahire, Suva
divefiji© is.com.fj
Sea Fiji Travel, Savusavu
seafijidive@is.com.fj
SeaHawk Yacht Charters, Savusavu
seahawk® is.com.fj
Seashell Cove Resort, Nadi
seashell@is.com.fj
Shangrl-La's Fijian Resort, Cuvu
fijianresort© is.com. fj
Sheraton Fiji Resort, Nadi
sheratondenarau © sheraton.com
Shotover Jet, Nadi
shotoverjet@ is.com.fj
Skylodge Hotel, Nadi
skylodge© is.com.fj
Sogo Fiji, Nadi
sogo© is.com.fj
Sonaisali Island Resort, Nadi
info@sonaisali.com
Sonaisali Island Resort, Nadi
info@sonaisali.com.fj
Sonaisali Island Resort, Nadi
sonaisali ©is.com.fj
South Pacific Adventure Divers
spaddivef iji @ is.com.fj
South Pacific Holidays, Nadi
sopacholidays© is.com.fj
South Pacific Tourism Organization, Suva
spice ©is.com.fj
South Sea Cruises, Nadi
southsea@is.com.fj
South Seas Private Hotel, Suva
southseas @ fiji4less.com
Subsurface Fiji, Lautoka
subsurface ©is.com.fj
Sun Air, Nadi
sunair© is.com.fj
Sun Air, Nadi
sun ©is.com.fj
Surfing Fiji Adventures, Korolevu
surfing_fiji@hotmail.com
Suva Apartments, Suva
fasanoc® is.com.fj
Suva Motor Inn, Suva
suvamotorinn @ is.com.fj
OTHER RESOURCES 339
Swiss Divers, Taveuni
sfd© is.com.fj
Tanoa Apartments, Nadi
tanoahotels@ is.com.fj
Tanoa House Private Hotel, Suva
evers@ is.com.fj
Tanoa International Hotel, Nadi
tanoahotels@ is.com.fj
Tapa International, Suva
tapa@ is.com.fj
Tavarua Island Resort, Nadi
rokotui@aol.com
Tavarua Island Resort, Nadi
tavarua® is.com.fj
Thomas Cook Fiji Ltd, Nadi
inboundtc@thomascook.com.fj
Thrifty Rent a Car, Nadi
res @ rosie.com .fj
Toberua Island Resort, Suva
toberua© is.com.fj
Tokatoka Resort Hotel, Nadi
tokatokaresort© is.com.fj
Tokoriki Island Resort, Mamanucas
tokoriki© is.com.fj
Tourist Information Center, Nadi
touristinfofj© is.com.fj
Travel Inn, Suva
travelinn@fiji4less.com
Travelers Beach Resort, Nadi
beachvilla® is.com.fj
Treasure Island Resort, Nadi
treasureisland @ is.com .fj
Trendwest/WorldMark, Nadi
trendwestfiji @ is.com.fj
Tropical Dive, Matangi Island
divefiji@juno.com
Tropical Dive, Naigani
fijiscuba© is.com.fj
Tropic Towers Hotel, Suva
tropictowers @ is.com.fj
Trustee Corporation, Suva
trustee ©is.com.fj
Tubakula Beach Resort, Korotogo
tubakula@fiji4less.com
Turtle Airways, Nadi
southseaturtle© is.com.fj
Turtle Airways, Nadi
turtleairways© is.com.fj
Turtle Island Resort, Yasawas
turtle ©is.com.fj
Copyrighted material
340 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
Twin Peaks Resort, Waya
vua@is.com.fj
United Touring Company, Nadi
fiji@utc.com.fj
United Touring Company, Nadi
utc@is.com.fj
USP Lodges, Suva
usplodges @ usp.ac.fj
Vakaviti Motel & Dorm, Korotogo
bulavakaviti @ is.com. fj
Vanaira Bay Backpackers Haven, Vanua
vanairabay@hotmail.com
Vatukaluvi Holiday House, Savusavu
coprashed @ is.com. fj
Vatulele Island Resort
vatulele ©is.com.fj
Vatulele Island Resort
res@vatulele.com
Victory Inland Safaris, Nadi
touristinfofj @ is.com. fj
Vomo Island Resort, Nadi
vomo@is.com.fj
Vuda Point Marina, Lautoka
vudamarina @ is.com.fj
Vuna Reef Divers, Taveuni
vunadivers@ is.com.fj
Wadigi Island, Mamanucas
wadigiisland@is.com.fj
Waidroka Bay Resort, Korolevu
waidrokaresort@suva.is.com.fj
Waisalima Beach Resort, Kadavu
waisalima® is.com.fj
Wakaya Club, Lomaiviti
wakaya@ is.com.fj
Levu Wananavu Beach Resort, Rakiraki
wananavuresort@ is.com.fj
aienront notei, LautoKa
waterfronthotl @ is.com.fj
Wayalailai Ecohaven Resort, Yasawas
wayalailai @ is.com.fj
Westside Watersports, Lautoka
westside® is.com.fj
\AI__f _ fiH n t nr Inn Kin Mi
wesi s wioior inn, i\iaai
westsmotorinn@ mail. is.com.fj
Yasawa Island Resort, Yasawas
yasawa® is.com.fj
Copyrighted material
GLOSSARY 341
GLOSSARY
ad/— the female equivalent of ratu
AIDS— Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome
archipelago— a group of islands
atoll— a low-lying, ring-shaped coral reef en-
closing a lagoon
bn labala— tree fern
balawa — pandanus, screw pine
balolo— in Fijian, a reef worm (Eunice viridis)
bareboat charter— chartering a yacht without
crew or provisions
bark cloth— see tapa
barrier reef— a coral reef separated from the
adjacent shore by a lagoon
beche-de-mer— sea cucumber; an edible sea
slug
bete — a traditional priest
bilibili—a bamboo raft
bilo — a kava cup
blackbirder— A 19th-century European recruiter
of island labor, mostly ni-Vanuatu and
Solomon Islanders taken to work on planta-
tions in Queensland and Fiji.
Bose vaka-Turaga— Great Council of Chiefs
Bose vaka-Yasana— Provincial Council
breadfruit— a large, round fruit with starchy
flesh, often baked in the lovo
bula shirt — a colorful Fijian aloha shirt
buli— Fijian administrative officer in charge of
a tikina; subordinate of the roko tui
bure—a village house
BYO— Bring Your Own (an Australian term used
to refer to restaurants that allow you to bring
your own alcoholic beverages)
caldera— a wide crater formed through the col-
lapse or explosion of a volcano
cassava — manioc; the starchy edible root of the
tapioca plant
chain— an archaic unit of length equivalent to 20
meters
ciguatera— a form of fish poisoning caused by
microscopic algae
coir— coconut husk sennit used to make rope,
etc.
confirmation — A confirmed reservation exists
when a supplier acknowledges, either orally or
in writing, that a booking has been accepted,
copra— dried coconut meat used in the manu-
facturing of coconut oil, cosmetics, soap, and
margarine
coral— a hard, calcareous substance of various
shapes, composed of the skeletons of tiny
marine animals called polyps
coral bank— a coral formation over 150 meters
long
coral head— a coral formation a few meters
across
coral patch — a coral formation up to 150 meters
long
cyclone — Also known as a hurricane (in the
Caribbean) or typhoon (in Japan). A tropical
storm that rotates around a center of low at-
mospheric pressure; it becomes a cyclone
when its winds reach force 12 or 64 knots. At
sea the air will be filled with foam and driving
spray, the water surface completely white with
14-meter-high waves. In the Northern Hemi-
sphere, cyclones spin counterclockwise, while
south of the equator they move clockwise.
The winds of cyclonic storms are deflected
toward a low-pressure area at the center, al-
though the "eye" of the cyclone may be calm.
dalo—see taro
deck— Australian English for a terrace or porch
Degei— the greatest of the pre-Christian Fijian
gods
desiccated coconut— the shredded meat of
dehydrated fresh coconut
direct flight — a through flight with one or more
stops but no change of aircraft, as opposed to
a nonstop flight
drua— an ancient Fijian double canoe
dugong— a large plant-eating marine mammal;
called a manatee in the Caribbean
EEZ— Exclusive Economic Zone; a 200-nautical-
mile offshore belt of an island nation or sea-
coast state that controls the mineral exploita-
tion and fishing rights
Copyrighted material
342 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
endemic— native to a particular area and ex-
isting only there
ESCAP— Economic and Social Commission for
Asia and the Pacific
expatriate — a person residing in a country otner
than his/her own; in the South Pacific such
persons are also called "Europeans" if their
skin is white, or simply "expats."
FAD— fish aggregation device
fissure — a narrow crack or chasm of some
length and depth
FIT— foreign independent travel; a custom-de-
signed, prepaid tour composed of many indi-
vidualized arrangements
fringing reef— a reef along the shore of an is-
land
GPS— Global Positioning System, the space
age successor of the sextant
guano — manure of seabirds, used as a fertilizer
guyot — a submerged atoll, the coral of which
couldn't keep up with rising water levels
HIV— Human Immunodeficiency Virus, the cause
of AIDS
hurricane— see cyclone
/w— the Polynesian chestnut tree (Inocarpus
edulis)
jug— a cross between a ceramic kettle and a
pitcher used to heat water for tea or coffee in
Australian-style hotels
leaf— freshwater mussel
kaisi—a commoner
kava — a Polynesian word for the drink known
in the Fijian language as yaqona and in Eng-
lish slang as "grog." This traditional beverage
is made by squeezing a mixture of the grated
root of the pepper shrub (Piper methysticum)
and cold water through a strainer of hibiscus-
bark fiber.
kerekere— asking or borrowing something from
a member of one's own group
knot— about three kilometers per hour
kokoda— chopped raw fish and sea urchins
marinated with onions and lemon; called Sashi-
mi in Japanese
koro— village
fruma/a— sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas)
kumi— stenciled tapa cloth
lagoon— an expanse of water bounded by a
reef
lalt-a hollow log drum hit with a stick
Lapita pottery— pottery made by the ancient
Polynesians from 1600 to 500 B.C.
LDS — Latter-day Saints; the Mormons
leeward — downwind; the shore (or side) shel-
tered from the wind; as opposed to windward
live-aboard — a tour boat with cabin accommo-
dation for scuba divers
L MS— London Missionary Society; a Protestant
group that spread Christianity from Tahiti
(1797) across the Pacific
/o/o— coconut cream
lovo— an underground, earthen oven (called an
umu in the Polynesian languages); after A D.
500 the Polynesians had lost the art of making
pottery, so they were compelled to bake their
food rather than boil it.
magiti— feast
mahimahi— dorado, Pacific dolphinfish (no re-
lation to the mammal)
ma na— authority, prestige, virtue, 'lace," psy-
chic power, a positive force
mangrove — a tropical shrub with branches that
send down roots forming dense thickets along
tidal shores
manioc— cassava, tapioca, a starchy root crop
masa kesa — freehand painted tapa
masi—see tapa
mata ni vanua— an orator who speaks for a
high chief
matrilineal— a system of tracing descent through
the mother's familial line
meke— traditional song and dance
Melanesia — the hiah island arouDS of the west-
em Pacific (Fiji, New Caledonia, Vanuatu,
Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea); from
melas (black)
Micronesia — chains of high and low islands
mostly north of the Equator (Carolines.
Gilberts, Marianas, Marshalls); from micro
(small)
mynah— an Indian starlinglike bird (Gracula)
NAUI— National Association of Underwater In-
structors
Copyrighted material
GLOSSARY 343
NGO — Nongovernment organization
NFIP— Nuclear-Free and Independent Pacific
movement
overbooking— the practice of confirming more
seats, cabins, or rooms than are actually avail-
able to insure against no-shows
Pacific rim — the continental landmasses and
large countries around the fringe of the Pa-
cific
PADI— Professional Association of Dive In-
structors (also Put Another Dollar In or Pay
And Dive Immediately)
palusami—a Samoan specialty of coconut
cream wrapped in taro leaves and baked
pandanus — screw pine with slender stem and
prop roots. The sword-shaped leaves are used
for plaiting mats and hats.
parasailing— a sport in which participants are
carried aloft by a parachute pulled behind a
speedboat
pass — a channel through a barrier reef, usually
with an outward flow of water
passage— an inside passage between an is-
land and a barrier reef
patrilineal— a system of tracing descent through
the fathers familial line
pawpaw — papaya
pelagic— relating to the open sea. away from
land
Polynesia— divided into Western Polynesia
(Tonga and Samoa) and Eastern Polynesia
(Tahiti-Polynesia, Cook Islands. Hawaii, East-
er Island, and New Zealand); from poly (many)
punt— a flat-bottomed boat
Quonset hut— a prefabricated, semicircular,
metal shelter popular during World War II;
also called a Nissan hut
rain shadow— the dry side of a mountain, shel-
tered from the windward side
rara—a grassy village square
ratu—a title for Fijian chiefs, prefixed to their
names
reef— a coral ridge near the ocean surface
roko tui— senior Fijian administrative officer
roti— a flat Indian bread
sailing — the fine art of getting wet and becoming
ill while slowly going nowhere at great ex-
pense
salusalu — garland, lei
scuba — self-contained underwater breathing
apparatus
SDA— Seventh-Day Adventist
self-catering— see self-contained
self-contained— a room with private facilities
(a toilet and shower not shared with other
guests); as opposed to a "self-catering" unit
with cooking facilities; the brochure term "en-
suite" means the bathroom is shared
sennit— braided coconut-fiber rope
sevusevu— a presentation of yaqona
shareboat charter— a yacht tour for individu-
als or couples who join a small group on a
fixed itinerary
shifting cultivation— a method of farming in-
volving the rotation of fields instead of crops
shoal— a shallow sandbar or mud bank
shoulder season— a travel period between
high/peak and low/off-peak seasons
SPARTECA— South Pacific Regional Trade and
Economic Cooperation Agreement; an agree-
ment that allows certain manufactured goods
from Pacific countries duty-free entry to Aus-
tralia and New Zealand
SPREP— South Pacific Regional Environment
Program
subduction — the action of one tectonic plate
wedging under another
subsidence— geological sinking or settling
sulu— a wraparound skirt or loincloth similar to a
sarong
symbiosis— a mutually advantageous relation-
ship between unlike organisms
tabu— taboo, forbidden, sacred, set apart, a
negative force
tabua—a whale's tooth, a ceremonial object
takia — a small sailing canoe
talanoa—\o chat or tell stories
tanoa — a special wide wooden bowl in which
yaqona (kava) is mixed; used in ceremonies in
Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa
tapa— a cloth made from the pounded bark of
the paper mulberry tree (Broussonetia pa-
pyrifera). It's soaked and beaten with a mallet
to flatten and intertwine the fibers, then paint-
ed with geometric designs; called siapo in
Samoan, mas/ in Fijian.
Copyrighted material
344 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
tapu—see tabu
taro — a starchy elephant-eared tuber (Colocasia
esculenta), a staple food of the Pacific is-
landers; called dalo in Fijian
tavioka— tapioca, cassava, manioc, arrowroot
teitei—a garden
tiki— a humanlike sculpture used in the old days
for religious rites and sorcery
tikina—a group of Fijian villages administered by
a buli
timeshare — part ownership of a residential unit
with the right to occupy the premises for a
certain period each year in exchange for pay-
ment of an annual maintenance fee
TNC— transnational corporation (also referred
to as a multinational corporation)
trade wind — a steady wind blowing toward the
equator from either northeast or southeast
trench — the section at the bottom of the ocean
where one tectonic plate wedges under an-
other
tridacna clam— eaten everywhere in the Pacif-
ic, its size varies between 10 centimeters and
one meter
tropical storm— a cyclonic storm with winds of
35 to 64 knots
tsunami — a fast-moving wave caused by an
undersea earthquake
tut-Mng
turaga — chief
turaga-ni-koro— village herald or mayor
vakaviti — in the Fijian way
vigia— a mark on a nautical chart indicating a
dangerous rock or shoal
VSO— Volunteer Service Overseas, the British
equivalent of the Peace Corps
waka — whole kava roots
windward — the point or side from which the
wind blows, as opposed to leeward
yam — the starchy, tuberous root of a climbing
plant
yaqona—see kava
yasana— an administrative province
zories— rubber shower sandals, thongs, flip-
flops
CAPSULE FIJIAN VOCABULARY
Although most people in Fiji speak English flu-
ently, mother tongues include Fijian, Hindi, and
other Pacific languages. Knowledge of a few
words of Fiiian. especially slana words will make
your stay more exciting and enriching. Fijian has
no pure b, c, or d sounds as they are known in
English. When the first missionaries arrived, they
invented a system of spelling, with one letter for
each Fijian sound. The reader should be aware
that the sound W is written b, u nd" is d, "ng" is
g, "ngg" is q, and "th" is c.
Au lako mai Kenada.—\ come from Canada
au la o — Vanua Levu version of barewa
au ////—affirmative response to au la o (also la o
mai)
Au ni lako mai vei?— Where do you come from?
Au sa lako ki vei?— Where are you going?
barewa— a provocative greeting for the oppo-
site sex
bula—a Fijian greeting
Dam lako!— Let's go!
dua— one
dua oo— said by males when they meet a chief
or enter a Fijian bure
dua tale — once more
e rewa—a positive response to barewa
io— yes
kana— eat
kauta mai— bring
kauta tani— take away
kaivalagi— foreigner
koro— village
Kocei na yacamu?— What's your name?
lailai — small
lako mai— come
lako tani— go
levu— big, much
Copyrighted material
CAPSULE HINDI VOCABULARY 345
lima — five
loloma yani— please pass along my regards
maleka— delicious
mag/map;/— coconut rope fiber
mag/ft— feast
marama — madam
mataqali—a clan lineage
moce— goodbye
A/a cava oqo?— What is this?
Nice bola — You're looking good.
r?/sa bula— Hello, how are you? (can also say sa
bula or bula vinaka; the answer is an sa bula
vinaka)
ni sa moce — good night
ni sa yadra— good morning
phufter—a gay male (a disrespectful term)
qara— cave
rewa sese— an affirmative response to fcarewa
rua— two
sa vinaka— it's okay
sega— no, none
sega na leqa— you're welcome
sofa tale—see you again
talatala— reverend
faou rewa— a negative response to barewa
tolu— three
tulou— excuse me
turaga— sir, Mr.
va — four
va/ca lailai—a little, small
va/ta /evu— a lot, great
vaka malua— slowly
vafca fofo/o— fast
va/e — house
va/e lailai— toilet
vanira — land, custom, people
vinaka— thank you
wna/ca vakalevu— thank you very much
vu— an ancestral spirit
wa/— water
yalo vinaka — please
yadra — good morning
yaqona— kava, grog
CAPSULE HINDI VOCABULARY
aao — come
accha — good
bhaahut julum— very beautiful (slang)
chota— small (male)
choti — small (female)
dhanyabaad— thank you
e/c aur— one more
haan— yes
r/um jauo—\ go (slang)
jalebi—ar) Indian sweet
too— when
kahaan — where
kahaan jata hai— Where are you going?
/ca/se ha/?— How are you?
khana— food
kitna?— How much?
/cya — what
/aao— bring
maafkijye pa— excuse me
naA?/— no
namaste— hello, goodbye
pan/— water
ra/f— okay
/am ram— same as namaste
roti—a flat Indian bread
seedhe jauo— go straight
fhee/c bha/— I'm fine
ye/? fc/a na/— what's this?
yihaan— here
Copyrighted material
346 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX
Adi's Place- 247-248
Fiii Palms Beach Club Resort - 181
I III 1 will 1 ' \J WvUvl 1 VIUw 1 1 \y \J\J • l- i w l
Albert's Place: 258-259
First Landina Resort - 240
Al's Paradise - 252
First Liaht Inn - 304
9 9 9 ft I 11% Villi* |
Anchoraae Beach Resort" 240
Friendlv North Inn - 283
Annandale ADartments - 197—198
Garden Island Resort - 305—306 307
Audrey's Cafe - 305
Garden of Eden Villa - 306
Ba Hotel - 228
I » XX * XX ■ • * — « — '■—
Gold Coast Inn - 252
Batiluva Beach Resort: 184-185
Good Time Inn: 14J
Bayside Resort: 246
Government Resthouse: 278
Beachcomber Island: 159—160
Grand Eastern Hotel: 285
Beachouse The - 175—176
Grand Melanesian ADartment Hotel - 140
^ — * 1 t-*l t\~M I V 1 »-* 1 1_4 1 1 V-» *J 1 %Jl I I # tL^U I 11 1 1 w III I IVJ I I • 1 iw
Beachside Resort: 142
Hidden Paradise Guest House: 287
Bedarra Inn - 171
ti/VWMI ■ V* II 99 ■ • || T
Hideawav Resort - 173—174
Beriava Hotel - 200
W XX 1 J ™* J 9Wk 9 9 XX ft XX * • ^^Jtjt
Holiday Inn (Nadi): 14Q
Betham's Beach Cottages: 224
Holiday Inn Suva: 200
Beverly's Campground: 302, 304
Horizon Beach Hotel: 141
Biana Accommodations - 257
Hotel San Bruno: 139-140
Bibi's Hideawav - 305
ft_S • XX ■ XX ■ • ■ VX X^ XA W ¥ ftaft w - yx xx XX
Hot SDrinas Hotel - 287
1 I \^ \ i 111! \— 4 ^— ' ■ 1 ft \^ 1 * t — w »
Bosun's Bunks: 287
Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiii Islands Resort -
Buca Bay Resort: 292
287-288
Budaet Holidav House 287
Jekesoni Oica's Guesthouse* 317
Capricorn Apartment Hotel: 2QQ
Jona s Paradise Resort - 259
CaDricorn International Hotel - 143
VHUI Ixxxxl 1 1 II llwl 1 lUHVI 1 x-4 1 1 1 Wlwl • 1 i w
Kaba's Motel & Guest House - 304
Casablanca Hotel - 171
Kaimbu Island Resort - 314—315
1 \IUM 1 ll/U 1 \J 1 *L* • IVJ I 1 "wJ\/l ft • ft^ I T 1
Castawav Island Resort - 159
X,x \-A \J ft ft»* » V J 1 w 1 IA 1 1 n-J I 1 xx xxxx ti« 1 Vf S->
Karin's Garden - 305
1 X<LA 1 1 1 I %-/ *W Wft 1 vJ "w 1 I • W V/
Cathav Hotel - 236
Kennedv Hotel - 140
Centra Resort Pacific Harbor 1 80
Xix ftX 1 III V-* 1 1 W WW 1*1 ft.* XX * 1 1 x^ V 1 Xft ' XX ■ * 1 '- ' -
Kim's Place - 252
1 »ll 1 1 W 1 IVlVV' tm
Charlev's Place - 224
Kinafisher Lodae - 250
j*f ' ' *— ' * i • ik>wxi\j vx • faw_u
Club Coral Coast: 180
Kings Nausori Hotel: 214-215
Club Fiji Beach Resort 142
^X ■ *■* XX ■ 1 XXX*»XXI 9 9 9 XX XX X^ ■ ft • ; »
Kinas Suva Hotel: 198
Club Masa - 168
Kontiki Island Lodae 223-224
i x xx 9 miii ■ wv\4> • x^i xx \^ x^ x^ * * — i — * — ,
Coconut Inn - 1 97
Kon Tiki Private Hotel - 140
I X XX 1 ■ lllxl ■ U 9 W l\y ■ I XX ft Vtf 1 • 1 T XX
Coconut Inn Hotel: 139
Kool's Accommodation: 304
Coral Coast Christian Camo - 180
XX I ft-* f X^ v/Ltu I Xi^ 1 1 1 1 »-J ft I I I X^ XX 1*1 ft_S . • « — > V*
Koro Sun Resort - 288-289
1 X XX 1 XX \X \mM VI IV V_y \—J v_y 1 ft • a — XX XX i — XX
Coral View Resort: 249-250
Korotoao Lodae 1Z1
I X XX V XX ft XX X4 W ft— XX XX XX XX • .^^^^^A
Coral Villaae Resort - 1 76
N_/ ' Ul *> IIIUXJU 1 1 XX ftXXX 1 I. 1 ' w
Korovou Resort - 248
I X XX 1 XX W XX \Jt 1 V XX XX XX 1 ft ■ fc^ T W
Crow's Nest Resort - 171
■ XX « V ftX 9 V XXXX % 9 9 XX ftjXXX ■ % • ■ ■ 1
Kris BackDlace - 304
■ x v v xx v* xx 1 » i*x i x-4 x* xx • ^x v *
Daku Garden Resort: 287
Labasa Guest House: 282
David's Place: 250
Lagoon Resort: 181
Deuba Inn: 180
Lako Mai Resort - 157
* V* w ft XX III V* III XX XX XX 1 % ■ J
Diamond Hotel: 236.
Lalati Resort: 186
Dominion International Hotel: 144
Lautoka Hotel: 236
Dream Beach: ifii-ifiP
Lavena Lodge: 30J
Duncan Apartments: 1 99
Liavata Lodge: 247
Elixir Motel Apartments: 122
Lisi's Accommodation: 304
Farmers Club: 282
Little Dolphin: 305
Fiji Forbes, Inc.: 310
Lomalagi Beachfront Cottage: 305
Fiji Mocambo Hotel: 143
Lomalagi Resort: 289
Copyrighted matei
ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX 347
Lomaloma Resort: 214
Long Beach Backpacker's: 252
Lost Island Resort: 27J
Lovoni Camping: 248
MacDonald's Nananu Beach Cottages: 224
Malolo Camp: 157-158
Malolo Island Resort: 158
Mana Island Resort: 162
Mana Rose Apartments: 142
Maravu Plantation Resort: 306, 3QZ
Marlin Bay Resort: 186
Matamanoa Island Resort: 162
Matana Beach Resort: 258.
Matangi Island Resort: 309
Matava, The Astrolabe Hideaway: 259
Mavida Guesthouse: 268
Mediterranean Villas: 24Q
Melanesian Hotel: 140
Melbravo: 252
Mereani's Backpackers Inn: 161
Moana's Guesthouse: 313
Mokusigas Island Resort: 224
Mon Repo Hotel: 236
Moody's Namena: 2fiQ-?90
Motel 6 Apartments: 198
Motel Capitol: 128
Motel Crossroad: 198
Mountainview Apartments: 140
Mumu Resort: 289
Musket Cove Resort: 156-157
Nabua Lodge: 252
Nadi Bay Hotel: 141
Nadi Downtown Motel: 129
Nadi Hotel: 139
Nagigia Island: 258.
Naigani Island Resort: 2Z2
Nakuita Island Resort: 257-? 58
Namale Resort: 288
Namotu Island Resort: 158-159
Nase Forest Lodge: 241
Natadola Beach Resort: 185
Navini Island Resort: 159
Naviti Resort, The: 1Z4
Nawanawa Estate: 313=314
New Haven Motel: 198
New Town Beach Motel: 141
Niranjan's Budget Accommodation: 302
Nukubati Island Resort: 283
Nukuyaweni Outpost: 2Z5
Oarsman's Bay Lodge: 252
Ocean Pacific Club: 1B3
Oceanview Hotel: 198
Octopus Resort Waya: 24Z
Otto's Place: 250=251
Outrigger Hotel: 198
Outrigger Reef Resort: 171-172
Ovalau Holiday Resort: 268=269
Pacific Safari Club: 18Q
Papageno Eco Resort: 258
Pena's Resort: 184
Pender Court: 19_Z
Peninsula International Hotel: 199
Plantation Island Resort: 156.
Qamea Beach Resort: 309
Rabi Island Council Guest Hose: 29_5
Raffles Gateway Hotel: 143
Raffles Tradewinds Hotel: 2QQ
Rainbow Reef Resort: 293
Raintree Lodge: 200-201
Rakiraki Hotel: 220, 222
Rara Avenue Hotel: 282
Ratu Kini's Resort: 161
Ratu's Inn: 312
Rendez-Vous Beach Resort: 153
Riverview Hotel: 168
Riverview Private Hotel: 282
Robinson Crusoe Island: 165
Rosie's Deluxe Serviced Apartments: 142
Rotuma Island Backpackers: 22!
Royal Hotel: 268
Rucksack Inn: 287.
Safe Landing: 252
Saf's Apartment Hotel: 198
Sandalwood Lodge: 142-143
Sandy Point Beach Cottages: 1Z2
Sarita Flats: 192
Savusavu Bay Accommodation: 28Z
Sawana Beach Apartment Hotel: 239-240
Sea Breeze Hotel: 236
Seashell Cove Resort: 153-154
Seaspray: 252
Sere-ni-lka: 305
Shangri-La's Fijian Resort: 167.
Sheraton Denarau Villas: 145
Sheraton Fiji Resort: 144-145
Sheraton Royal Denarau Resort: 144
Shlomo Trading: 276, 2Z8
Sigatoka Club: 169
Singh's Backpacker's Motel: 163
Skylodge Hotel: 143-144
Sonaisali Island Resort: 152-153
Southern Cross Hotel: 199
Copyr
348 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
South Seas Private Hotel: 1SZ
Sunny Holiday Motel: 141
Sunrise Lagoon Resort: 252
Sunseekers Hotel: 14Q
Sunset Accommodation: 304
Sunset Apartment Motel: 139
Sunview Motel & Hostel: 141
Susie's Plantation Resort: 304
Suva Apartments: 199
Suva Motor Inn: 199
Takia Hotel: 282
Tambua Sands Beach Resort: 123
Tanoa Apartments: 143
Tanoa House Private Hotel: 198
Tanoa International Hotel: 143
Tavarua Island Resort: 158
Taveuni Island Resort: 306
Tavua Hotel: 226
Toberua Island Resort: 216
Todranisiga: 302
Tokatoka Resort Hotel: 143
Tokoriki Island Resort: 163
Tourist Motor Inn: 198-199
Town House Apartment Hotel: 199
Travelers Beach Resort: 141-142
Travel Inn: 192
Treasure Island Resort: 160
Trendwest Resort: 145
Tropic Towers Apartment Motel: 2QQ
Tubakula Beach Resort: 172
Turtle Island Resort: 252=253
Tuvununu Paradise Garden Inn: 305
Twin Peaks Resort: 247
Uptown Motel: 198
USP Lodges: 199-200
Vakaviti Motel and Dorm: 121
Vanaira Bay Backpackers Haven: 292-293
Vatukaluvi Holiday House: 288
Vatulele Island Resort: 184
Vatuwiri Farm Resort: 306
Vilisite's Seafood Restaurant: 17.4
Vomo Island Resort: 163
Vuna Lagoon Lodge: 304-305
Wadigi Island: 153
Waidroka Bay Resort: 176-177
Waisalima Beach Resort: 259
Wakaya Club, The: 223
Wananavu Beach Resort: 222
Waratah Lodge: 121
Warwick Fiji, The: 174-175
Waterfront Hotel: 236
Wayalailai Ecohaven Resort: ?44^24fi
West's Motor Inn, The: 143
Western Hotel: 141
White House Visitors Inn: 140
Yasawa Island Resort: 254
YWCA: 278
RESTAURANT INDEX
Ashiyana: 201
Audrey's Island Cafe & Pastries: 306-307
Bad Dog Cafe: 204
Bedarra Inn: 122
Bhmdi's Refreshment Bar: £83
Bounty Restaurant: 146-147
Bowling Club: 22Z
Cafe Bula Re: 220
Cafe Levuka: 262
Cannibal Cafe: 306
Captain's Cafe: 290
Cardo's Chargrill: 203
Cardo's Steakhouse & Bar: 146
Castle Restaurant: 203
Chand's Restaurant: 226
Chefs The Comer (Nadi): 145
Chefs The Comer (Suva): 203
Chefs The Edge: 146
Chefs The Restaurant (Nadi): 145
Chef's The Restaurant (Suva): 203
Chopsticks Restaurant: 145-146
Coffee in the Garden: 269
Continental Cakes & Pizza: 145
Cosmopolitan Club: 222
Country Kitchen: 220
Crow's Nest Restaurant: 122
Curry House: 201
Daikoku (Suva): 203
Daikoku Japanese Restaurant (Nadi): 145
Deuba Fast Food: Ifll
Dick's Place Restaurant: 15Z
Dolphins Food Court: 201
Donald's Kitchen: 201
Downtown Boulevard Center: 201
Emily Cafe: 269
Faletau's Daily Grind: 290
Fong Lee Seafood Restaurant: 203
Gafoor & Sons: 222
Ganga Vegetarian Restaurant: 23Z
Govinda Vegetarian Restaurant: 20J
Great Wok of China: 204
Guang Wha Restaurant: 201. 203
Harbor Cafe: 290
Hare Krishna Vegetarian Restaurant: 201
Hong Kong Palace: 203
Hot Snax Shop: 23Z
Jackson Takeaway: 201
JJ's Bar & Grill: 203
Joe's Restaurant: 233
Jolly Good (Ba): 22S
Jolly Good Fast Food (Lautoka): 236
Kim's Cafe: 201
Kim's Restaurant: 269
Korea House Restaurant: 203
Kumarans Restaurant: 1B1
Kumar's Restaurant: 306
Lantern Palace Restaurant; 201
Le Cafe: 169
Le Cafe Garden Restaurant: JZ2
Lucky Corner Restaurant: 169
Maharaja Restaurant (Nadi): 147
Maharaja's (Lautoka): 236=237.
Mama's Pizza Inn: 145
Mid-Town Curry Restaurant: 146
Ming Palace: 203
Morris Hedstrom: 236
Mrs. Lai's Curry Place: 306
Nadi Farmers Club: 14Z
RESTAURANT INDEX 349
Naran Ghela & Sons Milk Bar: 236
Night Owl, The: 14Z
Oasis Restaurant: 16J
Old Mill Cottage Cafe: 201
Oriental Restaurant & Bar: 233
Palm Court Bistro: 201
Peking Restaurant: 203
Phoenix Restaurant: 203
Pizza Inn: 236
Poon's Restaurant: 146
Rachel's Deli & Bistro: 201
Rakiraki Lodge: 222
Rattan Restaurant: 169
RJ's for Ribs: 146
Roy's Wine & Dine: 22Z
Sea Breeze Restaurant: 290
Sea Coast Restaurant: 23Z
Seaside Cafe: 290
Sea Site Restaurant: 269
Shlomo Restaurant: 276, 2Z6
Sichuan Pavilion Restaurant: 203
Sigatoka Club: 17Q
Sinbad Restaurant: 122
Tiko's Floating Restaurant: 203
Vilisite's Seafood Restaurant: 124
Vunibokoi Restaurant: 3QZ
Waci-Pokee Restaurant: 306
Whale's Tale Restaurant: 269
Whistling Duck Pub: 215
Windies Corner Restaurant: 215
Wing Yuen Restaurant: 290
Wun Wah Cafe: 263
Yangs Restaurant: 23Z
Yellow Door, The: 204
Copyr
350 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
INDEX
A
Abaca: 240-241
acclimitizing: 92
accommodations: 81-86: categories 82-83:
price ranges 81; see also Accommodations
Index; specific place
agriculture: 54-55
AIDS/HIV: 98-99
air fares: 107-116
airline baggage rules: 11£
airport codes: 112
airports: 134-135
air travel: 110; see also transportation
Aiwa Island: 312
alcohol: Fijian 66-68: gifts 86-87 ; forbidden on
Beqa 185, legalities 86-87; see also kava;
yaqona
amphibians: 34-35
area code . 92
arts and crafts: 78-79
ATMs: 91-92
automobiles: see also transportation
B
Ba: 222=228
baggage rules: llfi
Bainimarama, Commodore Voreqe: 49-51
Baker, Rev. Thomas: 39, 231
Balea: 21S
balolo: fifi-69
Banabans: 294-295
banking hours: 9J
barrier reefs: 24-27. 29
Batiki: 2Z3
bats: 32
Bau Island: 215-216
Bavadra. Dr. Timoci: 42-43. 45-^46. 239
Beachcomber Island: 159-160
beachcombers: 38=39
beche-de-mer: 38
Beqa Island: 185-186
Beqa Lagoon: 186
Biausevu Falls: 1ZZ
bicyling: 76j airline regulations 116j Ovalau Is-
land 267: see also Hibiscus Highway; Nadi;
Taveuni
Bilyard Sugar Mill: 299
blackbirding: 4Q
Bligh, Captain William: 27, 242, 246
boat travel: see also river running; transportation;
sailing/yachting
botanical gardens: Lautoka 234; Suva 192:
Thurston Botanical Gardens 19H
Bouma National Heritage Park: 3QQ
HMS Bounty. 37, 242, 246
British: 47, 294-295
British six-inch guns (Viseisei): 239
Bua Bay: 2Z9
Buca Bay: 292=293
Bukuya: 229
Bula Festival: ZE
bure-.QQ.
Bureta River: 262
burial caves (Namalata): 313
Bushart, Martin: 36
bus travel: see transportation
C
Cakobau, Chief Ratu Seru: 38, 39-41. 215-216.
265
Cakobau, Ratu Sir George: 42, 21fi
calling cards: 93
camping: 83-84; see also specific place
cannibalism: 36, 38, 191 215, 242, 2Z3
canoes: 317
Cape Washington: 256
BIRDS/BIRDWATCHING
introduction: 33-34
bird species. 34
birdwatching: 34
Bouma National Heritage Park: 300
Buca Bay: 292
Colo-i-Suva Forest Park: 193-194
Hatana: 32Q
Kadavu: 255
Koroyanitu National Heritage Park: 240-941
Kula Eco Park: 170-171
Mt. Lomalagi: 229-230
mynah birds: 34
Qamea Island: 309
Taveuni: 296
Vidawa Rainforest Hike: 300
Waisali Nature Reserve: 286
INDEX 351
Caqalai Island: 221
cars: see transportation
Castaway. 1£3
Castaway island: 159
Catholic cathedral: 19Q
Catholic Church of St. Francis Xavier: 220
caves: Astrolabe Reef 257: Namalata (burial)
313: Delaiono Cave 317; Korolamalama Cave
184: limestone 316; Nasaqalau 316-317:
Oso Nabukete Cave 316: Qara Bolo Cave
316-317: Sawa-I-Lau Island 253; snake cave
220:Tarakua317
Cawaci: 265
centipedes: 35
Cession Monument: 266
Chaudhry, Mahendra: 47-51
Chinese: 62
Christianity: 39
Church of the Sacred Heart: 264
Cicia: 315
climate: 27-30
climbing: see hiking/climbing
coconut factory (Lakeba): 315=316
coconut palm: 68
coconut plantations: 315
Colo-i-Suva Forest Park: 193-194
concrete cross (Wairiki): 296
condoms: 98-99
conduct: 69-70: dress 69; in villages 84-86
cone shells: 33
conservation: climate 27: coral reefs 26-27. 29:
sea turtles 34
consulates: 206=209
Cook, Captain James: 3Z
copra: 54, 312
Copra Shed Marina: 2S6
coral/coral reefs: 24-27. 29_
Coral Reef Adventure: Ufl
coups: (first, 1987) 42^44: (second, 1987) 45-^48:
(third, 2000 ) 48-52
credit cards: 91-92
crested iguana: 2Z8
cricket: Z5
crime: ZQ
Crocombe, Dr. Ron: 44
Cross, William: 299
Cumming Street: 189-190
currency exchange: 91-92
currents: 3Q
customs: 65-70
cyclones: 30
D
d'Urville. Dumont. 38-39. 25Z
Dakuilomaloma: 312
Dakuniba: 292
dance: ZZ
Darwin, Charles: 24
Darwin's Theory of Atoll Formation: 24
dehydration: 97.
Delaikoro: 282
Delaiono Cave: 312
Delaivuna: 297
dengue fever: 1HQ
Denham, Captain H M : 39
departure tax: 134
Des Voeux Peak: 296, 298
Devil s Thumb: 266-267
Devokula Cultural Village: 25Z
Dillon, Peter: 2Z9
Dillon's Rock: 2Z9
diplomatic offices: 9Q
directory assistance: 93
diseases: 98-99: 100
diving: see scuba diving/snorkeling
Dorothy's Waterfall: 220
Doughty, William: 246
Drekeniwai: 292
Dreketi River: 2Z9
dress: 69
drinking water safety: 9Z
Drue: 255
Dudley, Hannah: 1B9
E
economy: 54-59: problems 56; trade 56-57
ecotourism: 5fi
Edwards, Captain: 319
eels: 33
electric current: W5
emergency services: 96, 209 see also specific
place
Emporer Gold Mine: 221
entertainment: ZZ
ethnic groups: 60-62
European War Memorial: 264
Evanson, Richard: 252
F
fauna: 31-35
faxes: 94
festivals: Z6j Bula Festival 78; Hibiscus Festi-
val 7_8j International Bula Marathon 78; Pres-
Copyr
352 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
GOLF
introduction: 73.
Denarau Golf & Racquet Club: 129
Fiji Golf Club: 195
Lautoka Golf Club: 235
Nadi Airport Golf Club: 13a
Naigani Island Resort: 2Z2
Naviti Resort: 174
Pacific Harbor Gold and Country Club:
179-1 an
reef golfing (Toberua Island Resort): 216
Suva: 135
ident's Cup Yacht Series 78; South Pacific
Games 7_8j Sugar Festival Z8
Fijian firewalking: 65, 72
Fijian Princess. 162
Fijians: 6Q_
Fiji Bitter Beer: 87.
Fiji Museum: 190-191
Fiji Recompression Chamber Facility: 2Q_9_
Fiji School of Medicine: 189
Fiji Trade and Investment Bureau: 9Q
Fiji Visitors Bureau: 89
film: 103-104
Fintel Building: 19Q
firewalking: Fijian 65, 77; Indian 65-66: 185
first-aid: 99-100
Fisheries Wharf: 235
fishing economy: 55
fish spearing: 313
Floating Island: 282
flora: 3J
food: 86-88: see also Restaurant Index; specif-
ic place
Forbes, Steven: 31Q
fringing reefs: 24-27. 29
Fulaga: 312
G
Ganilau, Ratu Sir Penaia: 4J , 4£L 46-47
garment industry: 55-56
Garrick Hotel: 183
Gau Island: 24; 274-275
geckos: 34-35
gender issues: 83
Gilbertese: 293
golden cowry: 186
gold mining: 2Z8
Gordon, Sir Arthur: 4Q
government: 52-53: see also coups
Grand Pacific Hotel: 19Q
gratuities: 92
Great Astrolabe Reef: 25Z
Great Britain: 4Q
Great Sea Reef: 24
greenhouse effect: 22
Greenspeace Pacific Campaign: 2QZ
Gun Rock: 265
fct
handicrafts: 78-79
hanging bridge (Labasa): 282
Hatana: 320
hazards: general 97-98: AIDS/HIV 98-99; crime
70; dehydration 97j diving safety rules 74;
drinking water safety 97; insects/arachnids
35; jellyfish 33; seasickness 97; sunburn
97-98
health: 96-1 00; see also specific place
Hibiscus Festival: 28
Hibiscus Highway: 232
highlights: 71-72
history: 36-53
Hofiua: 32Q
holidays: Zfi
Holy Redeemer Anglican Church: 265
horseback riding: 137. 139
hospitals: 96: see also specific place
hot springs: Namalata 313; Savusavu 286
human rights: 47_
FISH/FISHING
introduction: 32-33
Baywater Charters: 1 7_9
eels: 33
fish drives: 68
fishing industry: 55
Mamanuca Group: 155-163
Pacific Fishing Company: 265-266
Pacific Harbor: 129
Savusavu Game Fishing: 286
sharks: 32=33
stingray spearing: 68
stonefish: 33
toxic fish: 33
Wayasewa Island: 244-246
Copy ii
INDEX 353
HIKING/CLIMBING
introduction: Z6
Beqa Island: 185-186
Biausevu Falls: 1ZZ
Bouma National Heritage Park: 300
Caqalai Island: 27_l
Devil's Thumb: 266=267.
Gau:2Z4=2Z5
Gun Rock: 265
hiking tours: 123
Joske's Thumb: 135
Koroyanitu National Heritage Park: 240-241
Lavena Coastal Walk: 3QQ
Lovoni: 266
Moala Group: 218
Mt. Batilamu: 241
Mt. Delaico: 2Z5
Mt. Korobaba: 194-195
Mt. Lomalagi: 222=220
Nabukelevu: 256
Nagaidamu: 2Z4
Naigani: 2Z2
Nalotawa: 241
Nakauvadra Range: 222
Navuga: 241
Peak, The (Levuka): 264
Savuione Falls: 240-241
Sororoa Bluff: 320
Taveuni: 299-300
Trans-Viti Levu Trek: 218-219
Vidawa Rainforest Hike: 3QQ
Wainibau Falls: 300-301
Waisali Nature Reserve: 286
Waya Island: 246-248
Wayasewa Island: 244-246
Many resorts also offer hiking. See the Ac-
commodations Index for resort listings.
Hunt, Rev. John: 216
hurricanes: 3Q
I
iguanas: 35, 2Zfi
lloilo, President: 50-51
Immigration Office: 2QS
independence: 40-42
Indian firewalking: 65-66
Indians: 40, 41 , 61-62: cuisine 82
insects/arachnids: 35; first aid 29
Institute for Pacific Studies: 192
International Bula Marathon: ZB
international date line: 134
international driver's license: 122
International Society for Krishna Consciousness:
234
Internet: 94; booking 108-109: see also useful
sites 327-328: Website Directory 329=323
Isa Lei: 210
itineraries: 72-73
J
Jame Mosque: 232
jellyfish: 33
Joyita: 262
K
Kabara: 31Z
Kadavu: 22,255=260
Kaimbu Island: 314
Ka Levu Cultural Center: 162
Kanacea: 314
Katafaga: 315
kava: 36, 54-55. 66-68
kayaking: 76j airline regulations 116: Great As-
trolab Reef 257: ocean kayaking 131; Ring-
gold Reef Kayaking 302: Savulevu Yavonu
Falls 301; tours 122
Kioa: 222
Kokobula Scenic Outlook: 240
Koro: 2Z4
Korobasabasaga Range: 219
Korolamalama Cave: 184
Korolevu: 173-177. 231
Korotogo: 170-172
Korovou: 218. 219-220
Koroyanitu National Heritage Park: 240-241
Kula Eco Park: 170-171
Kulukulu: 167-168
L
Labasa: 280-285
Labasa Sugar Mill: 281
Lakeba: 31 1.315-317
Lakeba Cooperative Association: 315=316
Lake Tagimaucia: 299-300
Lai, Brij V.: 44
land: 22-29
land rights: 62=63
Copyr
354 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
language: 64
Laucala Island: 309-310
Lau Group: 311-321
Lautoka: 232-241 ; accommodations 236-240:
food 236-237; information and services
237- 238; sights 237-235; transportation
238- 239: vicinity 239-241
Lautoka Sugar Mill: 224
legal issues: alcohol 86-87: drugs 134: visas
90j yachting 90-91. 127. 208
Leleuvia Island: 271-272
leper colony (Makogai): 2Z3
Lesiaceva Point: 286
Lever Brothers: 293
Levuka: 262
Levuka Community Center: 263
Levuka Public School: 264
limestone caves: 316
literacy: 62
Lololo Pine Forest: 235
Lomaiviti Group: 261=225
Lomaloma: 312
long-distance access codes: 94
lova 87-88
Lovoni: 266
luggage: 1G1
M
Ma'afu, Enele: 39, 40, 315
Maftoa: 320.
magazines: 95
Mago: 314
mahogany: 3L 55
mail services: 92=93
Main Wharf (Lautoka): 235
Makogai: 2Z3
Malolo Barrier Reef: 155-156
Malololailai: 156-157
Mamanuca Group: 155-163
mammals: 32
Mana Island: 160-162
mangroves: 3J
Manilal, D M : 41
manufacturing: 56
maps: 206
Mara, Ratu Sir Kamisese: 42, 45, 46, 49-51
Marist Convent School: 264
maritime coordinates: 124-1 25
Marketplace of Fiji: 1Z9
Masomo Bay: 313
Masonic Lodge (Levuka): 264
Matacawa Levu Island: 252
Matamaiqi Blowhole: 299
Matamanoa Island: 162-163
Matangi Island: 309
Matuku: 31fi
Mavana: 313
measurements: 1115
medical issues: 96-100: see also specific place
meke: TL
Melanesians: 60
Meridian Wall: 282
metric system: 105
mining: 55, 22L 278
Ministry for Fijian Affairs: 208
missionaries: 39, 41, 189, 319
Mission Hill: 264
Moala: 31£
Moala Group: 31fi
Moce: 312
Momi Bay: 153
Monasavu Hydroelectric Project: 230
money: 91-92
mongoose: 32
Moturiki Island: 221
Mount Kasi Gold Mine: 228
Mt. Batilamu: 241
Mt. Delaico: 225
Mt. Korobaba: 194-195
Mt. Lomalagi: 229-230
Mt. Naitaradamu: 218-219
Mt. Tova: 220
Mt. Victoria: 23Q
Muani: 255
Munia Island: 313
N
Nabouwalu: 226, 228
Nabukelevu: 256
Nabukelevuira: 256
Nacamaki: 224
Nacula Island: 251-252
Nadarivatu: 229=230
Nadi: 136-154; accommodations 139-145: food
145-147; information and services 148-150:
sights 137; transportation 150-152
Nadi International Airport: 134
Nagaidamu: 224
Nagatagata: 23J
Naigani: 222
Naililili: 215
INDEX 355
Nairai: 973-974
Naisau: 251
Naiserelagi: 220.
Naisisili: 251
Naitauba: 314
Nakauvadra Range: 222
Nalauwaki: 246
Na Loba Loba Reef: 268
Nalotawa: 241
Nalova Bay: 252
Namalata: 319-31 3
Namenlala Island: 289-290
Namosi: 219
Namotu Island: 158-159
Namuamua: 182
Namuana: 256
Nananu-i-Ra Island: 292-223
Nan j ya Lailai Island: 252
Nanuya Levu Island: 252=253
Naqara: 229
Narovico: 312
Nasaqalau: 316-317
Nasau: 274
Nasava: 216
Naselesele Falls: 229
Natadola Beach: 165
Natawa: 246
National Stadium: 195
National Trust for Fiji: Z3, 202
Nausori: 214-216
Nausori Airport: 134-135
Nausori Highlands: 229
Navakawau: 299
Navala: 229
Navilawa village: 241
Navini: 159
Naviti Island: 248
Navoka Methodist Church: 264
Navua: 181-183
Navua River: 181 182-183
Navuga: 241
Navula Reef: 153
newpapers: 95
Noa'tau: 32Q
Nubukalou Creek: 162
Nubutautau: 231
nuclear issues: 41
Nukuaseali Beach: 317
Nukubalavu: 286
Nukulau: 191
0
Oceana Center for Arts and Culture: 192
Ogea: 31Z
Old Government House: 266
Olympic Swimming Pool: 125
Oneata: 312
Ono-i-Lau: 317-318
Orchid Island: 123
Orchid Island Cultural Center: 193
Oso Nabukete Cave: 316
Ovalau Club: 264
Ovalau Island: 262
overbooking: 115-116
P
Pacific Concerns Resource Center: 202
Pacific Fishing Company: 265-266
Pacific Harbor: 178-183
Pacific Harbor Cultural Center: 1 78-1 79
Pacific Theological College: 191
packing: 1Q1- 1Q4
parks: Z3
Parliament of Fiji: 191
passports: 9Q
people: 60-64
photography: 103-104
plants: 31
politics: 52-53: see also coups
Polynesians: 36, 6a 62
postal services: 92=93
pottery: 78-79: Naililili 215j Vunisea 256
poverty: 62
precipitation: 26=36
Presidential Palace: 191
President's Cup Yacht Series: Z8
print media: 95
Pritchard, W.T.: 39
pronunciation: 64
REEFS
introduction: 24-27. 29
conservation. 26-27, 29
coral/coral reefs: 24-27, 29
Great Astrolabe Reef: 25Z
Great Sea Reef: 24
Malolo Barrier Reef: 155-156
Na Loba Loba Reef: 268
Navula Reef: 153
Rainbow Reef: 302
Copyr
356 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
public holidays: Z6
Q
Qamea Island: 309
Qara Bolo Cave: 316-317
Qarani: 2Z5
Qara-ni-pusi Cave: 31Z
Queen Victoria Memorial Hall: 190
R
Ra Province: 220
Rabi: 293=295
Rabuka, Lt. Col. Sitiveni; 42-43. 45-51
racial issues: 62
radio: 95-96
Rainbow Reef: 302
rainfall: 2B=3Q
rainforests: Colo-i-Suva Forest Park 193-194:
Koro 274; Moala Group: 31& Taveuni 226
Rakiraki: P90-PPP
Raviravi Lagoon: 313
recompression emergency services: 9JL 209
red prawns: 184
religion: 63-64
reptiles: 34-35
reservations (accommodations): 82
Reserve Bank of Fiji: 190
reserves: Z3
Rewa Delta: 215
Rewa River: 214
rice: 54
Ringgold Reef Kayaking: 302
river running: Z& Discover Fiji Tours 163j Navua
River 18L 182-183: Rivers Fiji 182-183: Wai-
qua Gorge bilibili raft trip: 217-218: Wilder-
ness Ethnic Adventure Fiji: 182
Rotuma: 3J 9=321
Royal Suva Yacht Club: 193, 209
rugby: 76, 235=236
S
safety: 103
Sailors Home: 2M
Salia: 293
Saiialevu: 299
Savage, Charles: 38, 2Z9
Savuione Falls: 240-241
Savulevu Yavonu Falls: 301
Savusavu: 285-292
Sawaieke: 275
Sawa-i-Lau Island: 253-254
scorpions: 35
Seashell Cove: 153-154
seasickness: 9Z
sea snakes: 27_l
sea turtles: 34
sea urchins: 33
Seseleka: 276
shark-calling ritual: 312
sharks: 32-33. 317
shopping: 8Q_
shortwave radio: 95-96
Sigatoka: 168-170
Sigatoka River: 229
Sigatoka Sand Dunes: 16Z
Sikh Temple: 232
Sililo: 320
skinks: 34-35
snake cave: 220
Snake Temple: 282
snorkeling: see scuba diving/snorkeling
soccer: 76
social conditions: 62
Solmea Hill: 32Q
Somosomo: 299
Sororoa Bluff: 320
South Pacific Action Committee for Human Ecol-
ogy and Environment: 207
South Pacific Distilleries: 234
SAILING/YACHTING
introduction: 76
arriving by yacht: 125-128
Bilo, Ltd.: 123-12 4
Copra Shed Marina: 29J
legal issues: 90-91 . 127. 208
Malololailai: 156-157
Mamanuca Group: 155-163
maritime coordinates: 124-125
Musket Cove Yacht Charters: 123
Neisau Marina Complex: 238
Ocean Voyages Inc.: 124
permits for outer island cruising: 208 (Ministry
for Fijian Affairs)
ports of entry: 91
Royal Suva Yacht Club: 193, 209
Sailwing Yachting: 123
seasonal considerations: 126
Vuda Point Marina: 238
yachting tours: 123-125
INDEX 357
SCUBA DIVING/SNORKELING
introduction: 73-75
Musket Cove: 157
Amazing Dream: 223
Nai'a Cruises: 118
Aqua-Trek Beqa: 1 Z9
Naiqoro Divers: 258
Aqua-Trek (Mana Island): 132
Namotu: 155-156, 158-159
Aqua-Trek (Nadi): 13Z
Nanuya Lailai Island: 252
Aqua-Trek Taveuni: 302
Nautilus Dive: 2Z2
Aquaventure: 200, 301-30?
Neptune's Wedding Chapel: 223
Atlantis Divers (Mana Island): 162
Nok's Dive Cener: 302
Atlantis Divers (Nadi): 132
Ovalau Watersports: 267-26A
Beqa Divers (Pacific Harbor): 1Z9
Purple Haze: 223
Beqa Divers (Suva): 135
Ra Divers: 223
Beqa Lagoon: 186
Rainbow Reef: 302
Big W, The: 156
recompression emergency services: 96
Black Magic Mountain: 223
Rendez-Vous Beach Resort: 153
Circus, The: 1 56
safety: Z4
Coral Coast Scuba Ventures: lfiZ
Savusavu: 286, 288
Crystal Divers: 223
Scuba Bula: 153-154
Dive Center Ltd.: 135
scuba cruises: 118
Dive Connections: ITS
scuba tours: 120-121
Dive Kadavu: 258
South Mana Reef: 156
Dive Taveuni:301
Subsurface Fiji (Lautoka): 235
DiveTropex: 137
Subsurface Fiji (Musket Cove): 1 57
Eco Divers: 236
Sulpher Passage: Ififi
Fiji Recompression Chamber Facility: 209
Supermarket: 1 56
Gau:2Z4=2Z5
Suva: 195
Gotham City: 156
Swiss Fiji Divers: 301
Great Astrolabe Reef: 25Z
Taveuni: 296
Great Sea Reef: 282
Tropical Dive: 118
Inner Space Adventures: 137.
Tropical Expeditions: 118. 179
Lautoka: 235
Vuna Reef Divers: 302
L'Aventure Divers: 2BB
Wayalailai Ecohaven Resort: 244-246
Malolo Barrier Reef: 155-156
Wayasewa Island: 244-246
Mamanuca Group: 155-163
Westside Watersports (Lautoka): 235
Mana Island: 160-16?
Westside Watersports (Tavewa Island): 25J
Mana Pacific Divers: 1 62
Matangi Island: 203
Many resorts also offer scuba diving and snor-
Mike's Divers: 123
keling. See the Accommodations Index for re-
Mollie Dean Cruises: 118
sort listings.
South Pacific Games: Z8
stonefish: 23
Southern Viti Levu: 165-185
student fares: 109
Speight, George: 48-51; 191
sugar: economy 54; processing 54, 281
Square Sail Pacific: 124
sugarcane: 31
Sri Krishna Kaliya Temple: 234, 23Z
Sugar Festival: Z8
stalactites: 22Q
Sukuna Park: 190
stingray spearing: 68
Sukuna, Ratu Sir Lala: 42, 315
St. John's College: 265
Sulpher Passage: 186
St. Joseph's Church: 215
Sumi: 320
Copyrighted mater
358 MOON HANDBOOKS: FIJI
SURFING
introduction: ZS
airline regulations about surfboards: U£
Beqa Island: 186
Cape Washington: 256
Cloud Break (Navula Reef): 153
Great Sea Reef: 282
Kabara: 312
Kulukulu: 167-168
Mamanuca Group: 155-163
Namotu Island: 158-159
storing surfboards at Nadi Airport: 134
Suva: 135
Tavarua Island: 158
tours: 122
Yanuca Island: 184-185
sunburn: Q7-QR
Suva: 187-213: accommodations 195-201: food
201-204: information and services 206-209
sights 189-195: transportation 209=213
Suva Cemetery 193
Suva Point: 191
Suva Prison: 192
Suvavou: 193
Syria Monument: 214
T
tabua: 67, 68
tanoa: 66-68
Tanoa, Chief: 215
tapa cloth: 79, 312
taro: 82
Tasman, Abel: 36, 296
Taukei Movement: 48-51
Tavarua Island: 158
Taveuni: 296-310: accommodations 302,
303-306: food 306-307: information and ser-
vices 307; sights 298-301: transportation
307-308: vicinity 309
Taveuni s Time Line: 298
Tavewa Island: 248-251
Tavua: 226-227
Tavuki: 256
Tavuni Hill Fort: 169
taxes: 92
taxis: 132
telecommunications: 93-94
telephone cards: 93
telephone service: 93-94
television: 95
Three Sisters Hill: 281
Thurston Botanical Gardens: 19Q
Thurston, Sir John: 4Q
timber: 55
time: 104-105
tipping: 92
Tokoriki Island: 1£3
Tokou: 266-267
top sites: 22
Totoya: 31fi
tours: 118-125: cruises 117-118: for natural-
ists 121-122; for seniors 122; hiking 123:
kayak 122; scuba 120=121; surfing 122; yacht
123-125
tourism: 57-59, 89-90
tourist offices: 89
Town Hall (Levuka): 264
train: 16Z (Fijian Princess)
transportation: 106-135: airport codes 112; air-
ports 143-135; 134-135: boat 116-117:
130-131; bus 131-132; ; cruises 117-118
kayaking 131. 182-184: organized tours
118-125: plane 110-116; 129-130: problems
1 15-116: rental car 132-133; taxi 132; train
167; yacht 76. 125-128
Trans- Viti Levu Trek: 218-219
travel agents: 1DQ.
traveler's checks: 92
travel insurance: 96-97
travel seasons: 78, 107-108
Treasure Island: 160
Triangle, The: 19Q
TRK (Trunk Radio System): 93
Tubou: 315
Tunnels of Levuka: 267_
turtle calling (Nacamaki): 224
turtles: 34. 256. 274. 289
Twain, Mark: 38
U
Udreudre, Ratu: 222
Uluinavatu: 222
Uluiqalau Peak: 296
University of the South Pacific: 191-192
V
vaccinations: 1QQ
Vaileka: 220
Value Added Tax (VAT): 92
INDEX 359
Vanaira Bay: ?9?-?93
van Fossen, Anthony D.: 43-44
Vanua Balavu: 311^ 312-314
Vanua Levu: 215=295
Vatukarasa: 1Z2
Vatukoula: 22Z
Vatulele Island: 1B4
Vatu Vara: 315
Vereni Falls: 240
videos: IDS
vidi vidi: 2B3
village hospitality: 84-86
visas: 90
Viseisei village: 239
Viti Levu: 22
Viwa Island: 216
voltage: HJ5
Vomo Island: 163
von Luckner, Count Felix: 2Z3
Vovoe Beach: 32Q
Vuna: 299
Vunidawa: 21Z
Vunisea: 255
W
Wadigi: 159
Waikama: 274-275
Waikana Falls: 255=256
Wailagi Lala: 315
Wailoku Falls: 194
Wailoku Settlement: 194
Wainaloka: 26Z
Wainibau Falls: 300-301
Wainimakutu:218S219
Wainimala River: 212
Waiqele hot springs: 262
Waiqua Gorge: 217-218
Wairiki: 298
Waisali Nature Reserve: 266
Waitabu Marine Park: 3QQ
Waitavala Sliding Rocks: 29fi
Waitovu: 265
Wakaya: 2Z3
war canoes: 21£
Wasavula: 281
waterfalls: Biausevu Falls 177: Bouma National
Heritage Park 300; Dorothy's Waterfall 220;
Naselesele Falls 279: Savuione Falls
240-241 : Savulevu Yavonu Falls 301; Vereni
Falls 240; Waikana Falls 255-256: Wailoku
Falls 194; Wainibau Falls 300-301
Waya Island: 246-248
Wayalevu: 246
Wayasewa Island: 244-246
weaving: Z9
Whippy, David: 38
Wilkes, Commodore Charles: 39, 312
Williams, John Brown: 39, 191
winds: 3Q
windsurfing: 75-76
woodcarving: Z8
work permits: 90
World War 1: 4J
World War II: 41,294=295
World Wide Fund for Nature: 2QZ
Y
Yacata Island: 314
yachting: see sailing/yachting
Yadua: 2Z5
Yagasa Cluster: 31Z
Yalobi: 246
Yanuca Island: 184-185
Yanuca Lailai Island: 2Z1
yaqona: 36
Yaqona ceremony: 66-67
Yasawa Island: 254
Yasawa Islands: 242=253
Yawe District: 256
Copyr
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Three decades ago, David Stanley's right
thumb carried him out of Toronto, Canada,
onto a journey that has so far wound
through 174 countries, including a three-
year trip from Tokyo to Kabul. His travel
guidebooks to the South Pacific, Microne-
sia, Alaska, Eastern Europe, and Cuba
opened those areas to budget travelers
for the first time.
During the late 1960s, David got in-
volved in Mexican culture by spending a
year in several small towns near Guana-
juato. Later he studied at the universities of
Barcelona and Florence, before settling
down to get an honors degree (with dis-
tinction) in Spanish literature from the Uni-
versity of Guelph, Canada.
In 1978 Stanley linked up with future
publisher Bill Dalton, and together they
wrote the first edition of Moon Handbooks:
South Pacific. Since then, Stanley has
gone on to write additional definitive guides, including Moon Handbooks: Fiji,
Moon Handbooks: Tahiti, and Moon Handbooks: Tonga-Samoa, and early editions
of Moon Handbooks: Alaska-Yukon and Moon Handbooks: Micronesia. He wrote
the first three editions of Lonely Planet s Eastern Europe on a Shoestring as well as
the first two editions of their guide to Cuba. His books have informed a generation
of budget travelers. Stanley's personal web address is www.southpacific.org.
PLEASE HELP US
Well, you've heard what we have to say, now we want to hear
what you have to say! How did the book work for you? Your ex-
periences were unique, so please share them. Let us know
which businesses deserve a better listing, what we should
warn people about, and where we're spot on. It's only with the
help of readers like yourself that we can make Moon Hand-
books: Fiji a complete guide for everyone. The address is:
David Stanley
c/o Avalon Travel Publishing
5855 Beaudry St.
Emeryville, CA 94608, U.S.A.
email: info @ travelmatters.com
material
David Stanley's
South Pacific Organizer
www.southpacific.org
can help you stay up to date
hot links to tourist offices, airlines, resorts,
hostels, dive shops, news sources, maps,
travelogues, miniguides, forums, travelers
tools, books, music, and films, plus excerpts
from Stanley's four South Pacific guides
taking you beyond the printed page
Copyrighted material
A V A L O N
T R A V E L
How far will our travel guides take you? As far as you want.
Discover a rhumba-fueled nightspot in Old Havana, explore prehistoric tombs in
Ireland, hike beneath California's centuries-old redwoods, or embark on a classic
road trip along Route 66. Our guidebooks deliver solidly researched, trip-tested
information — minus any generic froth — to help globetrotters or weekend warriors
create an adventure uniquely their own.
And were not just about the printed page. Public television viewers are tuning in to
Rick Steves' new travel series, Rick Sieves' Europe. On the Web, readers can cruise
the virtual black top with Road Trip USA author Jamie Jensen and learn travel
industry secrets from Edward Hasbrouck of The Practical Nomad. With Foghorn
AnyWare eBooks, users of handheld devices can place themselves "inside" the
content of the guidebooks.
In print. On TV. On the Internet. In the palm of your hand.
We supply the information. The rest is up to you.
Avalon Travel Publishing
Something for everyone
www. tr a velma tters . com
Avalon Travel Publishing guides arc available at your favorite book or travel store.
KOON HANDBOOKS provide comprehensive
coverage of a region's arts, history, land, people, and social issues in addition to
detailed practical listings lor accommodations, food,
outdoor recreation, and entertainment. Moon Handbooks
allow complete immersion in a region's culture — ideal for
travelers who want to combine sightseeing w ith insight lor
an extraordinary travel experience in destinations
throughout North America. Hawaii, Latin America, the
Caribbean, Asia, and the Pacific.
WWW.M00N.COM
CUBA
shows you wht re to travel and how to travel — all
while getting the most value for your dollar. 1 lis Back Door
travel philosophy is about making friends, i. tin, and
avoiding rip-offs. A
TZuk's been traveling to liuropc for more than 25 and
is the author of 22 guidebooks, which haw sold e than
a million copies He also hosts the award-w inning
television series Rule NfevcV Europe
WWW.RICKSTEVES.COM
Europe Through
the Back Door
ROAD TRIP USA
Getting there is hall the fun, and Road Trip USA guides are your ticket to driving
adventure. Taking you off the interstates and onto
less-traveled, two-lane highways, each guide is tilled with
fascinating trivia, historical information, photographs, lacts
about regional writers, and details on where to sleep and
eat — all contributing to your exploration of the American
ROAD TRIP
1 ■ J--T
fr.(t-( ...try Mr.af.r.i M
road.
i pica
' I Boohs j so full of the pleasures of the \imiiian road,
you can smeM the upholstery."
-BBC radio
p"Q^j|-JQf^(^ guides are for campers, hikers, boaters, anglers,
bikers, and golfers of all levels of daring and skill.
OU DOORS Each guide focuses on a specilic U.S. region and
contains site descriptions and
ratings, driving directions,
facilities and Ices inlormation.and easy-to-read maps that
leave only the task of deciding where to go.
"Foghorn Outdoor* has established an ecological
conservation standard unmatched by any other publisher."
-Sierra Club
WWW.F0GH0RN.COM
1
T D A If CI C Afl A DT guidebooks are accessible, route-has^
■ ■■«■■ Wiwiniii tjn^pg guides focusing on regions
throughout the United States and Canada. Special interest
tours provide the most practical routes for family fun,
outdoor activities, or regional history for a trip of anywhere
from two to 22 days. Travel Smarts lake the
guesswork out of planning a trip by recommending only the
most interesting places to eat, stay, and visit.
"One of the few travel series that rates sightseeing
attractions. That's a handy feature. It helps to have some
guidance so that every minute counts."
~San Diego Union-Tribune
TRAVEL* SMART 1
GEORGIA
J.
-
ClT Y'S A/Id K I tm guides are written by local
authors with hometown perspectives who have personally
selected the best places to eat. shop, sightsee, and simply
hangout. The honest, lively, and opinionated advice is
periect lor business travelers looking to relax with the locals
or for longtime residents looking for something new :■ !
Saturday night.
CITY-SM8RT
Dallas
Fo
U.S. -METRIC CONVERSION
1 inch
1 foot
1 yard
1 mile
1 km
1 fathom
1 chain
1 furlong
1 acre
1 sq km
1 sq mile
1 ounce
1 pound
1 short ton
1 short ton
1 long ton
1 long ton
1 metric ton
1 quart
1 US gallon
1 Imperial gallon
1 nautical mile
2.54 centimeters (cm)
.304 meters (m)
0.914 meters
1 .6093 kilometers (km)
.6214 miles
1 .8288 m
20.1168 m
201.168 m
.4047 hectares
100 hectares
2.59 square km
28.35 grams
.4536 kilograms
.90718 metric ton
2000 pounds
1.016 metric tons
2240 pounds
1000 kilograms
.94635 liters
3.7854 liters
4.5459 liters
1.852 km
To compute celsius temperatures, subtract 32
from Fahrenheit and divide by 1 .8. To go the
other way, multiply celsius by 1 .8 and add 32.
Fahrenheit
230
220
210*
200
190
180
] 70
160
! SO
140
1 30°
1 20
I 10
100 ,
90 ,
80 .
70 .
60 .
50 J
40
30 J
20
10°
0
-10
-20
-30 c
-40
Celsius
-110
-100 Water
Boils
- 90°
- 80
70
60°
50
40°
30°
20°
10
0
-10 c
-20
■ 30
-40
Water
Freezes
inch 0
cm 0
mi ii
8
10
III
Copyrighted material
Will you have enough stories to tell your grandchildren?
Yahoo! Travel
TRAV
to nil. vereran iourn Pacific writer David
Stanley seamlessly integrates engaging
narrative and no-nonsense travel advice to
bring you everything you need to know
about the 322-island Fijian archipelago.
- inougnr-prvvoKinq mrroaucTion to me
people of Fiji, famed for their warmth,
generosity, and fascinating array of
traditional customs
ail, and rich in spirit:
>OKS
Details on Fiji's turbulent history, including coverage
of the attempted coup in 2000
Vivid descriptions of the islands' dazzling
■ • m - m * m -
TAHITI
HANDBOOK
beaches, raintorests, and reets, plus tips for
enjoying outdoor activities like diving, surfing,
sailing, and hiking
beachfront bures I—
• Hundreds of website listings and email addresses ^
• 46 helpful maps
MOON
HANDBOOKS
www.moon.com
AVALON TRAVEL PUBLISHING
DISTRIBUTED BY PUBLISHERS GROUP WEST
US$15.95
CAN$25.95
SIXTH EDITION
Copyrighted material
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11